{"title":"Car polish by Dr. Wack","description":null,"products":[{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-kratzer-polish-politur","title":"A1 \"Kratzer Polish\" Polish (+microfibre cloth)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"Kratzer Polish\" removes swirls instead of filling them\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"Kratzer Polish\"? A silicone-free hand polish from Dr. Wack for individual fine scratches in clear coat and hard plastic, headlights included. Not for matte paint, matte wraps, chrome trim or scratches that go down to the primer.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Kratzer Polish\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a scratch remover polish from Dr. Wack in Baar-Ebenhausen that works fine scratches out of clear coat and hard plastic surfaces in one step. The reason you can see a scratch like that at all isn't missing paint. The groove has rough, broken flanks, and they bounce incoming light back in every direction instead of one. Your eye reads that as a white line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThink frosted glass. The pane isn't dark, it's just rough, and that's exactly why you can't see through it. A fine scratch is the miniature version of that, a few microns wide. The abrasives in Kratzer Polish have a very uniform grain size and break down into smaller and smaller particles as you work. They smooth the flanks until the spot reflects light in a single, focused direction again. You'll notice it: the reflection runs across the spot without a break.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe alcohol test proved it.\u003c\/strong\u003e In 2022, AUTO BILD compared scratch removers and then wiped the polished areas down with an alcohol solution — in the scene, that step is called a panel wipe. Whatever had only been covered up with silicone showed up again. With Kratzer Polish, the gloss stayed put: 259.5 out of 300 points, grade 1.6, a win against nine competitors and Product of the Year.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e50 ml, not a gram of silicone.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone-free isn't a label here, it's the reason the result lasts. There's simply nothing that could slip into the groove and fake gloss. A second benefit, in case a panel gets resprayed soon: body shops keep silicone away from the car, because residue in fresh paint causes craters.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePaint, bumpers and headlights from one tube.\u003c\/strong\u003e On hard plastic, Dr. Wack approves three kinds of damage: yellowing, dullness and fine scratches, especially on polycarbonate headlight lenses. In practice, that means you don't need a second product for the cloudy headlight, or for the branch scratch on the door.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Use two cloths, not one. Dr. Wack includes the microfibre cloth specifically for buffing off; according to the instructions, you apply with a damp cloth. Do both with the same rag and at the end you'll drag the saturated side back over the freshly polished spot, turning gloss into smears. So use a second, slightly damp cloth to apply, and keep the included one dry for removal. What we see day-to-day, that's the one move that decides between clean and almost clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOnce it's dried on, Kratzer Polish stops working\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDirect sun and warm panels make the polish dry on before it has done its job. It needs a clean, dry, cool surface and a cloth that stays damp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eShake the tube, put a small amount on the damp cloth, then work it into the spot with pressure. Work in palm-sized sections rather than the whole door — Dr. Wack explicitly says to treat larger areas section by section.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs long as the cloth stays damp, the abrasives stay mobile. Once it dries, you're just pushing paste around the paint instead of removing material. Then add more product rather than rubbing longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWork a little beyond the scratch. Polish removes clear coat, and if you stop exactly on the line, you create a hard edge between treated and untreated paint. In raking light you'll then see a patch instead of a scratch. Feather out 2 to 3 cm beyond it with decreasing pressure and the transition disappears.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen let the spot dry on well and buff it to a high gloss with the included dry cloth. If the scratch is still there, repeat the pass. That's the intended route, not a sign that the tube is too weak. The first time, a door edge takes longer than you'd think; by the third time, you'll do it in passing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe formula is approved for machine polishers. That's worth it for a dull headlight or a bonnet scratched all over; for a single branch scratch, your hand is quicker than setting up the machine. If you see holograms in direct light afterwards — fine smears in the reflection — the pressure was too high or the pad too dry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-kratzer-polish-politur_anwendung.png?v=1787867848\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Kratzer Polish being squeezed from the tube onto a folded microfibre cloth\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eIf your fingernail catches, only a body shop can help\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA1 \"Kratzer Polish\" works in the clear coat, the top layer. Run your nail across the scratch, and if it catches, the groove goes deeper than any polish will ever reach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack is clear about this itself: scratches down to the primer can only be fixed with a paint repair at a body shop. The target is car-wash swirls, wipe marks, the branch scratch from the farm-track exit, the bag buckle on the driver's door. Anything you can't feel with your fingernail is a job for the tube.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo surfaces are completely off limits: matte paint and matte wraps. A polish whose purpose is gloss does exactly the wrong thing there, and you won't get it back. Nor does the product belong on chrome-plated plastic parts like badges, or on soft unpainted plastics in the cabin, such as the dashboard and door cards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe headlight deserves a line of its own, because two things get mixed up there. The lens is a type-approved polycarbonate part with a thin factory protective layer — the plastic's sunscreen. Take that off with sandpaper and you've modified an approved part, which the roadworthiness inspection treats as a major defect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA polish that just brightens the yellowed film on top of that layer is a different thing, and that's exactly what Dr. Wack approves the headlight for. If the protective layer is gone over a large area and the lens feels chalky, though, this tube won't bring it back to new either. Then it's a specialist with a fresh sealing layer, or a new part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd a limit that isn't on any label: if the spot is still visible after the second pass, stop. Every further pass takes clear coat, and you won't get that back. A faintly visible scratch is a smaller problem than a panel with too-thin clear coat that'll be the first to start chalking in a few years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo the split is simple. If three specific spots bug you, grab A1 \"Kratzer Polish\". If the whole paint looks dull and grey, an \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur\"\u003eall-over polish with carnauba protection\u003c\/a\u003e is the right tool — 500 ml, meant for the whole car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003e50 millilitres is enough for spots. Not for panels.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFifty millilitres sit on the shelf next to a 500 millilitre all-over polish from the same range. The factor of ten isn't cost-cutting, it's a statement of what the tube is for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's for drivers who have their car under control and see an annoyance in two or three places: the wipe marks around the fuel flap, the pale line on the wing, the cloudy headlight. If you want to refresh the entire paint, 50 ml is the wrong size. That's what the big packs in our \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-autopolitur\"\u003ecar polishes\u003c\/a\u003e are for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe tube's standing in the market speaks for itself, without any fuss. AUTO BILD test winner 2022; auto motor und sport already had it in first place out of eight back in 2014, with 122 out of 150 points. For a product that's had the same single job for years, that's the more interesting number than any superlative.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs long as the groove sits in the clear coat, it's a cosmetic problem and fixable by hand. Once it goes through base coat and primer, it becomes a substance problem, and the tube is out of its depth. That's why it makes sense to keep it in the car, not on the shelf: a spot you treat the day it happens is the easiest case this product will ever get.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd the point no tube tells you: after buffing off, that exact spot is the only one on the car with no protective film. Silicone-free also means nothing is left behind — no wax, no polymer, nothing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe freshly exposed clear coat picks up road film faster than the paint around it, and the spot soon stands out again, this time because it's duller than the rest of the door. Lay a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-care-und-protect-spruehversiegelung\"\u003espray sealant from the same range\u003c\/a\u003e straight over it. That's the difference between a scratch that's gone and a spot that stays gone.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"50 mL","offer_id":54707187712335,"sku":"D1-DRW-2714","price":14.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-kratzer-polish-politur.png?v=1787867688"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur","title":"A1 \"Polish \u0026 Wax\" Polish","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eWith A1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\", polishing and waxing happen in one pass\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\"? A hand polish from Dr. Wack with a carnauba share that reduces fine scratches and grey haze and brings the protection along in the same wipe. It has no business on matte paint, matte wraps or scratches that go down to the base coat.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the combination polish in Dr. Wack's A1 range. There are two halves in one bottle: abrasives that level the weathered top layer of the clear coat, and carnauba wax that lays itself over it in the same wipe. Of the range's three all-over polishes, A1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\" is the only one whose catalogue text starts with the protection technology instead of the grain.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDoing it separately means touching every panel twice. First the polish, then the degreasing, then the wax. In real life, that second session regularly gets pushed back, and then a freshly corrected finish sits in the driveway without any protective layer at all. That's the worst in-between state there is: the old protection has been polished off, the new one never arrived.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAt Dr. Wack, the protective half goes by the name Carnauba Booster Technology — the same label the manufacturer gives its pure spray waxes. Carnauba is a hard plant wax that isn't just along for the ride here; it's the half that's in the product name. You'll notice it: the panel already shows beading after buffing off — round droplets instead of broad puddles — without you opening a second bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur_anwendung_3.jpg?v=1787867871\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Polish \u0026amp; Wax being worked into the bonnet of a black BMW with the sponge\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne pass instead of two.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack recommends two to three applications a year. If you do polish and wax separately, that means four to six rounds over the bodywork, not counting the degreasing in between. Here it stays at two to three afternoons, and the panel is finished once you've buffed off.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproved right up to gloss wraps.\u003c\/strong\u003e The approval list runs from metallic and solid paint through scratch-resistant and so-called nano clear coats to gloss wraps, from as-new to heavily weathered. Exactly two surfaces are excluded: matte paint and matte wraps. The wrap approval comes down to the solvent-free formula, which doesn't pull plasticisers out of the vinyl.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSame price per litre as its stronger sister.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polish \u0026amp; Wax and Speed Polish sit side by side on the shelf, 500 ml each, at an identical price per litre; ULTIMA comes in 250 ml and costs three times as much per litre. So between the first two you're not deciding on price, but on which half of the job should hit harder.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The polish's white colour is the price you pay for the single step. Whatever runs into a door shut, onto a rubber seal or into textured plastic dries pale there, and you can't just take it off with a degreaser as usual — the same wipe would strip the fresh wax off the panel too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo keep a good 1 cm away from every gap and every seal, and run the sponge parallel to them rather than across. Anything that still gets in, pick it out with a dry detailing brush while the film is still wet. Otherwise we see those pale marks still sitting there half a year later at the next session.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003ch3\u003eNo panel wipe between polish and wax here\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eWith Polish \u0026amp; Wax, there's no in-between step. You dose onto the sponge, work it in, let the film dry through and remove it. Then the panel is done.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe prep is still the same as with any polish. A single iron particle still sitting in the clear coat after washing drags a circular trail across half the panel under the foam. Wash, dry, decon — meaning take off fallout and tar — and only then does the bottle come into play.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe dose goes on the applicator sponge, not the panel; from there you work it in with even pressure in circles. Dr. Wack explicitly says to keep the sponge loaded and top up as needed. Then the film has to dry through completely before a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-das-tuch-premium-mikrofaser-mikrofasertuch\"\u003epremium microfibre cloth\u003c\/a\u003e goes over it — the catalogue describes wiping off the excess as easy as dusting.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis is where the real difference from the two-stage route lies. If you do it separately, you wipe the panel with isopropanol between polish and wax — the scene calls it a panel wipe — and then lay the protection onto bare clear coat. With a combo product that step necessarily disappears, because the wax goes down in the same wipe, onto the polish residue rather than bare material.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThat's not a flaw, it's the design. Think of a 2-in-1 wall paint that does primer and top coat in one go: you save the second coat, but each layer ends up thinner than if applied separately. In practice here: you're buying speed and simplicity and paying with a few percent of durability.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867863\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Dr. Wack A1 Polish \u0026amp; Wax being dosed onto the orange polishing sponge\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eHandling earns the points, the finish doesn't\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eAt auto motor und sport in 2015, the scorecard showed exactly 76 out of 100 points and 3rd place out of 7. The product properties scored 28 out of 30; protection and gloss stayed mid-table.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eFour years earlier the picture looked different. In 2012, Auto Bild ranked the product 1st against four competitors and gave it full stars; ACE Lenkrad gave it 80 out of 100 points that same spring, also first place out of five. Both times the praise was for the same thing: handling and effortless buffing.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003ePut together, the two findings add up to a clear verdict. Where handling counts, this bottle is up front. Where durability and gloss depth go up against specialised competition, it lands in the upper midfield. That exact trade-off is built into every combo product — and the scores date from before the reworked Booster formula, so read them as a direction, not as today's measurement.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTwo limits are hard. On matte paint and matte wraps, both halves work against what the surface is for: the matte look comes from a rough microstructure that scatters incoming light, and that's exactly what grain and wax level out. What's left are greasy-looking islands no cleaner will get back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is in the 2026 catalogue by being absent. For Speed Polish and ULTIMA, Dr. Wack states carnauba protection of up to 3 months; for Polish \u0026amp; Wax, there's no such figure. If you want to plan in a reliable durability, don't extrapolate one — top up after a few washes instead.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eA third topic keeps coming up in user reports. The manufacturer explicitly approves the product for machine use too, but the thin consistency doesn't make life easy there: even at low speed, the pad flings product off. If you're working by machine, dose onto the pad, set it down on the panel and only then switch on.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867867\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Polishing sponge spreading A1 Polish \u0026amp; Wax on black clear coat near a panel gap\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIf you want durability, split polish and wax again\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eA1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\" is built for the driver who works on the paint two or three times a year and wants peace and quiet afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe split is clear-cut. If you've got an afternoon, work by hand and want a refreshed, protected panel at the end, this bottle is the right one. If the last few percent of finish matter more to you than a second step, reach for the stronger \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-autopolitur\"\u003ecar polishes from Dr. Wack\u003c\/a\u003e and lay a separate wax over them afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eFor beginners, it's the friendliest of the four A1 polishes, because little can go wrong: no building up through several cutting stages, no pad changes, no choice between polish and protection. Reckon on a good two hours for a mid-size saloon the first time; by the third time it's an hour and a half. Taking longer at first is part of it and says nothing about you.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTwo groups are better off elsewhere. If you're running a ceramic coating, you'd polish it off — that calls for a maintenance shampoo, not an abrasive paste. And if you want the protection to last through winter, splitting the steps serves you better: Dr. Wack rates its pure spray waxes at up to 6 months, twice as long as the carnauba share of the sister polishes. For that case, a \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/autowachs\"\u003estandalone car wax\u003c\/a\u003e is the more honest tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBy the way, Polish \u0026amp; Wax comes in exactly one pack size and exactly one concentration. No diluting, no second size, no choice between hand bottle and canister. Pick up the data sheet and you'll find 500 ml, solvent-free and an approval list — there are no other dials to turn, and with this product that's part of the concept.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe point that's on no label: Polish \u0026amp; Wax and Speed Polish cost exactly the same per litre, come in 500 ml packs and carry the same approval list. Putting two bottles at the same price per litre side by side on the shelf isn't pricing policy in Baar-Ebenhausen, it's a formulation decision. One puts the weight on the grain, the other on the wax.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eSo you're not choosing between cheap and expensive, but between the half that removes and the half that protects. For most cars that get attention twice a year, it's the second one.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707193282895,"sku":"D1-DRW-2640","price":20.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur.png?v=1787867309"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur","title":"A1 \"Speed Polish\" Car Polish","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"Speed Polish\" takes out the swirls and leaves carnauba behind\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"Speed Polish\"? An all-in-one car polish from Dr. Wack that removes fine scratches and leaves a layer of carnauba in the same pass. Not for matte paint, matte wraps or deep scratches that go down into the base coat.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Speed Polish\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a car polish from Dr. Wack that packs two steps into one bottle: abrasives take off the top, aged layer of clear coat, then carnauba wax settles over it. In the scene, a combo like that is called an all-in-one polish, AIO for short. The abrasives come from the same family used to finish precision mirrors for space research — high-purity aluminium oxide particles with a very tight grain size distribution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe trick is that these grains don't stay hard. They're so-called diminishing abrasives: under pressure and friction heat, they break at built-in fracture points into smaller and smaller fragments. Think of sandpaper that goes from 1500 to 5000 grit while you're working. For you, that means cut and finish are in the same product — no switching bottles or pads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe jump in gloss is measured, not claimed.\u003c\/strong\u003e In a series of reflectometer readings on weathered test paint, the gloss level rose from 71.0 to 88.6 in a single pass. Factory-fresh clear coat sits at 90 to 95. So with one bottle and one sponge, you get within a few points of a new car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe grey haze is measurably cut in half.\u003c\/strong\u003e The haze value — the diffuse scatter from thousands of micro-scratches — dropped from 42.4 to 22.5 in the same measurement. You'll notice it in the reflection: sharp edges again instead of a milky rim. On the pro scale, the cut sits at roughly 2.5 to 3.5 out of 10 — enough for swirls, not enough for deep scratches.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproved on gloss wraps and scratch-resistant clear coat too.\u003c\/strong\u003e Metallic, solid, so-called nano paints, highly cross-linked scratch-resistant clear coats and gloss wraps are all on the approval list — the last one is rare in this price bracket. According to Dr. Wack, the carnauba film protects for up to three months.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake isn't the amount, it's the area. If you polish the whole bonnet in one go, you'll find a dusty crust at the first corner while the last one is still wet and shiny. Work in sections of about half a square metre and start each new pass at the wet edge. Above 25 °C or in the sun, halve the sections again. What we see day-to-day, that's the difference between five and twenty minutes of buffing off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePressure does the polishing. Not dwell time.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUnlike a cleaner, it's not time doing the work here, it's your hand. Only pressure breaks the abrasive grains down and gets the polishing going in the first place.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDecon comes first, or the sponge just grinds the dirt in. Wash, dry, take off fallout and tar, and if the paint still feels gritty after washing, clay it. A single embedded iron particle under the sponge drags round pigtails into the clear coat. That damage is worse than any scratch you were trying to polish out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen shake the bottle and put the product on the dry \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-der-politur-schwamm-politur\"\u003epolishing sponge\u003c\/a\u003e, not on the paint. Work in small circles in a cross-hatch and keep the sponge well loaded, or the grains run without a lubricating film. Dr. Wack puts it unusually bluntly: the more pressure, the better the result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen let it flash off briefly — don't let it cure. Remove with microfibre, never with a cotton cloth or cotton wool; both push the wax residue around rather than picking it up. Flip the cloth often, or you'll spread on the second half what you picked up on the first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe sponge has more say in this than most people expect. A soft applicator mostly spreads wax; a medium-firm foam transfers the pressure all the way to the grains. If one pass leaves you disappointed, it's often not that you polished too little, but that you worked through a pad that's too soft.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA dual-action machine with a medium foam pad gets you further than working by hand, because the machine holds constant pressure for twenty minutes, which no arm can. By hand you replace speed with muscle, and the result slides a little from removed towards filled. What we see day-to-day, a compact car by hand uses about a third of the 500 ml bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867885\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Speed Polish being squeezed from the bottle onto the orange polishing sponge\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe carnauba fills what the grains don't remove\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePart of the visible scratch removal is masking. The wax settles into valleys the abrasives haven't levelled and takes away their shadow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCarnauba is the hardest known natural wax, with a melting point of 82 to 86 °C, and it refracts light unusually strongly. That's exactly what makes it a good filler: whatever it fills no longer casts a shadow, and the paint looks smoother than it would after abrasion alone. Day to day, that means a deep, warm gloss on dark colours — and up to three months of durability without sealing separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's not a con, it's how every all-in-one polish is built. You just need to know what happens when the wax goes. After a few washes with a strong alkaline pre-wash, the medium-depth scratch is back. That's where the harsh reviews you read about AIO products come from: the user expected removed and got filled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo limits are absolute. On matte paint and matte wraps, the grains polish spots smooth and the wax fills them — you end up with greasy-looking shiny patches that only a respray will fix. And chrome trim and rough, unpainted plastics stay off limits, because the white particles settle into the pores there and are hard to get back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe bottle says solvent-free, and that's more precise than it sounds. It means no aggressive aromatic solvents — the kind that pull plasticisers out of a wrap and leave it brittle and yellowed. There is a low-odour, de-aromatised carrier oil in there, otherwise the paste would dry out on the paint instantly and the grains would have no lubricating film. For you, that means you can work a gloss wrap on the roof exactly like the panel next to it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat gives you a clear split. If you want to take swirls, haze and car-wash scratches off the whole body and have the protection come along for the ride, Speed Polish is the right call. If one single deep scratch bothers you, or the result has to hold up after ten washes, that's a job for one of the more abrasive \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-a1-politur\"\u003epolishes in the A1 range\u003c\/a\u003e, which work without wax and don't bring any protection with them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur_anwendung_3.jpg?v=1787867893\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Polishing sponge with A1 Speed Polish on the black bonnet of a BMW\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolishing twice a year is plenty for this paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor A1 \"Speed Polish\", Dr. Wack recommends two to three passes a year. That's spot on for the driver who looks after their car but doesn't want to block out a two-stage afternoon.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe get questions about it in two waves: in April, once winter's grit and road salt have been washed off, and at the end of August, when the low evening sun makes the swirls visible in the first place. That matches search behaviour — interest in polishing a car peaks in August and is currently running about 18 percent above the yearly average.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo the 500 ml covers those two to three passes a year several times over. Who it's not the right pick for: anyone who wants everything at once, once a year — weathered bumper, cloudy headlight and deep scratches on the door edge. That takes individual steps and usually a machine. And anyone already running a ceramic coating — you'd polish it right off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat the maths works out for the normal case was confirmed by GTÜ in 2017, comparing nine car polishes: Speed Polish came out as test winner, specifically praised for its protection, the deep gloss with visibly refreshed colour and residue-free buffing. Exactly the three points where an AIO product usually cuts corners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to stretch the durability, follow up the buff-off with a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-speed-wax-plus-3-spruehwachs\"\u003espray wax\u003c\/a\u003e. This pure sealant has no abrasive content and extends protection from the three-month window towards six. It doesn't attack the freshly laid carnauba — it sits on top of it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd here's the bit no label tells you: getting from 71.0 to 88.6 gloss costs you an afternoon, a bottle and a sponge. The last few points up to new-car level at 90 to 95 cost a machine, three pads, two products and a whole day. Dr. Wack makes a product in Baar-Ebenhausen that nails the first part and honestly bows out of the second. That self-restraint is exactly what makes it the right tool for most cars — and the wrong one for paint fanatics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867889\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Bottle of A1 Speed Polish next to the polishing sponge after buffing off\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707197051215,"sku":"D1-DRW-2610","price":20.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur.png?v=1787867345"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-ultima-show-und-shine-polish-politur","title":"A1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026 Shine Polish\" Polish","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish\" takes out holograms without putting new ones in\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish\"? The strongest hand polish in Dr. Wack's A1 range, built on synthetic abrasives from wafer manufacturing, with carnauba protection for up to three months. Not for matte paint, matte wraps, chrome-plated plastic parts or anything that goes deeper than the clear coat.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a polish from Dr. Wack in Baar-Ebenhausen that removes fine scratches and weathered paint instead of filling them. The same abrasives are otherwise used to level silicon wafers in microchip production. There, the result isn't decided by how hard a grain is, but by how identical it is to the grain next to it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's exactly what sets it apart from an ordinary polish. Size, shape and hardness are identical across the whole batch, and as you work, the grains break down evenly into the nano range. In a normal compound the grain size varies, and the few oversized outliers are what put in the new fine scratches you then have to cover up again. For you, that means what you see after buffing off is the actual result, not a layer sitting on top of it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA grain that doesn't go rogue.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack uses synthetic abrasives like the ones used to polish wafers in microchip manufacturing, and explicitly targets holograms and car-wash scratches without re-marring. The cutting stage finishes down to a gloss on its own, so you don't switch to a second, finer compound. Anything deeper than a finishing polish removes stays out of scope — the clear coat on top is only 30 to 60 microns thick.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e3rd place out of nine, measured after degreasing.\u003c\/strong\u003e In 2020, KÜS and AUTO BILD tested nine premium polishes on black panels, three quarters of the surface artificially weathered down to a gloss level of 60, the untreated quarter at 90. Application was five grams of product, 1.5 kilograms of pressure and five passes in a cross-hatch. Before the final rating, the lab degreased with isopropanol so waxes couldn't hide any scratches. The result: 238 out of 300 points.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree months of protection instead of bare paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e In the same step, carnauba wax lays a film on the freshly polished paint, which Dr. Wack rates at up to three months. The manufacturer recommends two to three applications a year, and the 250 ml covers that several times over. Day to day, that means you don't have to seal the same afternoon just so the panel isn't left unprotected.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Don't judge the result in daylight. Diffuse light irons out holograms and haze visually — exactly the defects you're polishing against. Grab an LED spot light, hold it low across the panel and leave a palm-sized patch unpolished next to it. Only that comparison tells you whether the first pass was enough. We often see a second pass even though the first one had already done the job, and every pass costs 0.5 to 5 microns of clear coat that you'll never get back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWith ULTIMA, the whole door is one section\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe instructions call for entire body panels in one go, and that's not about convenience — it follows directly from how this polish works.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWashing comes first. Unwashed paint carries loose grit, and it travels under the sponge across the whole panel. If the paint still feels gritty after drying, or there are little brown specks in the white, take the fallout off first. Then work in the shade on a cool panel, never on hot paint in the sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 250 ml bottle comes with a microfibre cloth; the sponge isn't included. Apply to the dry \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-der-politur-schwamm-politur\"\u003epolishing sponge\u003c\/a\u003e, not the paint, and keep the sponge loaded for the whole section. If it runs dry, the grain loses its lubricating film and each pass turns into friction with no effect. On pressure, the manufacturer is blunter than most: more pressure going in, better result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen comes the step that sets this polish apart from most. The film has to dry completely before the cloth goes over it, and according to Dr. Wack it then comes off as easily as dusting. Since there's no wet edge that can flash off too early, your working unit isn't half a square metre but the whole panel: door, wing, bonnet in one go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the scene, a polish that's meant to dry on raises a few eyebrows. That objection mixes up two different things. The cutting happens under your hand, while you're rubbing; the drying time afterwards just makes removal easy. Which of the two did the work on your car is answered by the spot-light test above, on your own paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-ultima-show-und-shine-polish-politur_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867924\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish being worked into the black bonnet next to the headlight\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhat ULTIMA doesn't remove, a machine won't either\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith this polish, a machine polisher is a speed tool, not a power tool. It covers more area per hour, but it won't take a single extra micron out of the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ceiling is in the grain, not in your arm. Depending on technique, a finishing polish removes around 0.5 to 5 microns of clear coat, a cutting compound on a rotary 3 to 8. ULTIMA belongs in the first group, even applied by machine. Anything deeper stays put and needs its own cutting step, a suitable pad and, if in doubt, a paint depth gauge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the machine, one rule applies that barely matters by hand: work controlled, small sections, no heat build-up. Heat under the pad is the fastest route to exactly the holograms you're polishing against. On dark metallic, a rotary spinning too fast inflicts the damage the product is then supposed to take away again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo surfaces are off limits, full stop. On matte paint and matte wraps, grain and wax make the surface glossy, and there that's a write-off, not a work in progress. Chrome-plated plastic parts and badges are also left out. If polish ends up in rough, unpainted plastic, get it back out with a trim dressing before it dries white in there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat leaves the forum accusation that whatever disappears here is just filled and comes back after a few washes. Worth taking seriously, because there's carnauba in the product. The lab provides the solid counter-check: KÜS degreases the panels before the final rating to strip off waxes and silicones, and after that the result still landed in 3rd place out of nine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat gives you a clear split. If the paint is basically sound and it's holograms, haze and car-wash scratches that bug you, ULTIMA is the tool. If the whole car is dull and the price per litre matters, reach for the 500 ml all-over polish from the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-a1-politur\"\u003eA1 range of polishes and paint cleaners\u003c\/a\u003e. And if the scratch goes through the clear coat, neither will help — that's a job for the body shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDark paint is where ULTIMA shows what it's built for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHolograms and haze, the milky film over the reflection, show up first on black and dark metallic — and that's exactly where removed and covered-up go their separate ways.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's no coincidence that KÜS tests on black panels. Three quarters of the surface had been weathered down to a gloss level of 60, while the untreated quarter sat at 90 — a contrast you simply don't see on light silver. If you drive a dark car, though, you see it every Sunday on the driveway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat makes \u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish\"\u003c\/strong\u003e the product for paint that's basically fine but missing the last few percent: after a machine session that left holograms in direct light, before a sale, before a meet, after a winter of weekly car washes. If you want to rescue a completely weathered car once a year, though, you need a dedicated cutting step and a machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePer litre, the 250 ml costs a good three times as much as the 500 ml all-over polish from the same range. What you get for that isn't more product, it's a different grain. Dr. Wack recommends two to three passes a year, and the bottle covers that several times over — as long as you remove it with a deep-pile \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-das-tuch-premium-mikrofaser-mikrofasertuch\"\u003epremium microfibre cloth\u003c\/a\u003e and don't top up, because a saturated cloth won't pick anything up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd here's the point no label does the maths on: your clear coat is a bank account you can only withdraw from. There are 30 to 60 microns in it, and if you want to keep its protection, you shouldn't take more than 10 to 15 of them off over the car's entire life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt 0.5 to 5 microns per pass, that's around thirty polishes or three, depending on how aggressive you go. So the interesting question isn't which polish removes the most, but which removes the least and still delivers. That's exactly the logic behind the uniform grains: a grain that doesn't go rogue doesn't force you to level the same panel a second time.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707199279439,"sku":"D1-DRW-2660","price":30.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-ultima-show-und-shine-polish-politur.png?v=1787867381"}],"url":"https:\/\/detiiling1.com\/collections\/dr-wack-autopolitur.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}