{"title":"Car shampoo by Dr. Wack","description":null,"products":[{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-power-foam-shampoo-schaumshampoo","title":"A1 \"Power Foam Shampoo\" Snow Foam","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 Power Foam Shampoo lifts the dirt before swirls happen\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 Power Foam Shampoo? A foam shampoo from Dr. Wack for foam lance, pump sprayer and bucket, one step above neutral at pH 8, that leaves wax and sealant where they are. Not a degreaser ahead of a ceramic coating, and not a budget concentrate for a quick bucket wash.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 Power Foam Shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e is a foam shampoo from Dr. Wack that softens the dirt in the foam and carries it away before any tool touches the panel. The anionic surfactants drop the surface tension of the water far enough that the film creeps under the loose grit instead of over it. For you that means the dirt floats up and runs off with the foam, instead of working as grinding paste under your wash mitt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat is where most swirls come from — not from polishing, but from the first two minutes of the wash. A grain of sand still sitting on the paint when the mitt first lands drags its line the whole length of the pass. The foam pre-wash is the step that takes that grain off without moving it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack calls the technique behind it micro-mechanical foam: as the bubbles collapse they keep changing size, and that movement works the film out of the surface. Getting that balance right is lab work — a foam that clings to vertical metal for two to three minutes and still sits at pH 8. Dr. Wack developed it in Baar-Ebenhausen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the AUTO BILD test of 7 May 2026 that was enough to lead a field of eight snow foam shampoos: grade 1.2, 189 out of 200 points, 95 per cent cleaning performance on every test panel. What they checked was not only what comes off, but what stays — paint, the ABS plastic on the bumpers and the polycarbonate on the headlight covers. The one that came last in the same test attacked ABS. Here all three materials came through untouched.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne bottle, three tools.\u003c\/strong\u003e Foam lance on the pressure washer, pump foam sprayer, bucket — the dosing changes, the product does not. The cap holds 30 ml and doubles as your measure, so you need no second scale and no kitchen balance.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH 8 leaves your protection alone.\u003c\/strong\u003e The figure sits one step above the neutral point of 7 and a long way from the strongly alkaline pre-cleaners that strip wax and sealant along with the dirt. Dr. Wack states outright that the product is wax-safe. In practice: you foam over a three-month-old spray sealant without giving it up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproved all the way to matt paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e Three paint types, two wrap types and every paint condition from as-new to heavily weathered are on the approval list. On twelve-year-old weathered paint you run the same dosing as on the wrapped lease return.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We see the lance dosing carried straight over to the pump sprayer a lot — concentrate in, water on top, and the foam collapses on itself right away. Neat, the product belongs only in the reservoir of the foam lance, because the high-pressure jet dilutes it there for you. In the sprayer you mix 1.5 to 2 caps into 1 litre of water, so 45 to 60 ml. Below that the foam stops carrying the dirt, it just runs off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eThe foam lance gets it neat, the bucket gets three caps\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThree routes, three doses: neat into the reservoir of the foam lance, 1.5 to 2 caps per 1 litre in the pump sprayer, 2 to 3 caps per 5 litres in the bucket.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnce it is on, 2 to 3 minutes run. In that time the road film softens, the bubbles travel downwards and take the loose grit with them. Then you rinse thoroughly with clean water, top down, until no foam is left standing in the panel gaps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe order around the car matters more than most people think. Start low at the sills and wheel arches where the heavy dirt sits, and work your way up. The foam runs downwards anyway, so it lays itself over the dirtiest panels a second time. Rinsing goes the other way, from the top — otherwise dirty water tracks over panels you have already cleaned.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTwo conditions decide the result, and neither has anything to do with dosing. First the sun: if the foam dries on, what you have instead of a pre-wash is a layer of surfactant residue that wants washing off as well. Second the panel temperature — a car that has just run for two hours boils your dwell time away. Fifteen minutes cooling down in the shade is cheaper than a second pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you have no foam lance on a pressure washer, a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/ik-sprayers-pumpschaumsprueher-ik-foam-pro-2\"\u003epump foam sprayer\u003c\/a\u003e gets you to a comparable foam density. The difference is arm work: you pump it back up before each section of the car, but you need no power and no water connection. For a single car that is no drawback, for three back to back it is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing stands out about the AUTO BILD method: they rinsed off with no mechanical help at all, three minutes, nothing more. So the 95 per cent stands for pure chemistry on a test panel. On a real car with edges, swage lines and rubber seals, that is the groundwork, not the whole wash — the rest comes from the two-bucket wash, and on paint the heavy dirt has already come off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-power-foam-shampoo-schaumshampoo_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867880\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Bottle of A1 Power Foam Shampoo next to the foamed-up wash bucket while mixing up for the hand wash\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Power Foam Shampoo is not a budget concentrate\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the pump sprayer 45 to 60 ml go into a litre of water — so a one-litre bottle gives you around 16 to 22 fills, and no more.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe bucket works out much the same: 2 to 3 caps in 5 litres is roughly 1:60 to 1:80. For comparison, the A1 Speed Shampoo from the same line runs half a cap in 10 litres, so about 1:400. That is five to seven times the consumption for the same bucket.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat figure is no weakness in the formula, it is a design decision. A foam meant to stand on vertical metal for two to three minutes needs surfactant volume — otherwise it collapses before it works. If you own a foam lance or a sprayer, this is exactly the right grab. If you simply take a bucket and a mitt, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-speed-shampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003ehand wash concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e is the thriftier choice for the same job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit hides inside one of its own selling points. Because the shampoo leaves wax and sealant layers standing, it is no good as preparation before a ceramic coating. If you want to coat, you need a degreaser afterwards that takes off exactly what is deliberately left here. For a maintenance wash that is the advantage, for a coating build it is one more step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe third expectation comes from the internet: the product gets pushed as a way to skip the hand wash altogether. For a light layer of dust after a dry week, that holds. As soon as road film, bug splatter or brake dust are in play, no foam takes it all off touch-free — it reduces what the mitt then pushes across the panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnd the fourth: in that same AUTO BILD test a much cheaper concentrate took the value-for-money rating. Work out the price per litre of ready-to-use wash solution on its own and you will find cheaper — but you buy worse material compatibility or lower cleaning performance with it. Which of those matters more to you is your call, not the test field's.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eIf you own a foam lance, this is where you get the most out of it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe A1 Power Foam Shampoo pays off when a pressure washer with a foam lance or a pump sprayer is already standing there and the pre-wash is a fixed part of your routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho it is not for: if you wash your car four times a year with a bucket and a sponge, you are paying here for foam technology you will never use. And if you run through the automatic wash regularly and only wipe down at home, you need no pre-wash foam — a quick detailer is the better grab there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTwo bottle sizes are on offer, and they mean two different users. The 1,000 ml bottle is the working size for the season you are in. The 90 ml bottle holds exactly three caps — that is precisely one bucket wash, or one and a half to two sprayer fills. As a try-out size before you commit to a litre, that is more honest than any product description.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you are still choosing between foams, a look at the spread helps: in the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/snow-foam\"\u003eSnow Foam\u003c\/a\u003e category, strongly alkaline pre-cleaners sit next to pH-mild shampoos. The alkaline ones pull off more oil and more bugs, but they go at wax and sealant. This one is the other side of that trade-off — and therefore no substitute for a heavy-duty cleaner after winter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe tip that is in no set of instructions: dose the sprayer by the water temperature, not by the car. Cold water dissolves the surfactants more slowly, the foam comes out thinner and slides off faster — so you go to the full dose of 2 caps. In summer 1.5 is enough, and you win back the time that foam drying in the sun would otherwise cost you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate itself takes cold badly. The freezing point is 0 °C, and a single frosty night on an unheated shelf costs you the bottle. So cool and dry expressly does not mean cold with this product — and keep it apart from oxidising agents, which on the shelf simply means: not right next to bleach or a chlorine cleaner.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 Liter","offer_id":58584749080911,"sku":"D1-DRW-2765","price":20.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"90 ml","offer_id":58584739873103,"sku":"D1-DRW-2766","price":5.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-power-foam-shampoo-schaumshampoo.png?v=1787867329"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-speed-shampoo-autoshampoo","title":"A1 \"Speed Shampoo\" Car Shampoo","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003e25 millilitres of A1 \"Speed Shampoo\" wash a whole car\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"Speed Shampoo\"? A pH-neutral car shampoo concentrate from Dr. Wack for the bucket hand wash, mixed at 25 millilitres to 10 litres of water, that leaves an existing wax layer in place. Not a pre-wash foam for the foam lance and no substitute for an alkaline pre-cleaner after winter.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Speed Shampoo\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a car shampoo concentrate from Dr. Wack that's mixed at a ratio of 1 to 400. 25 millilitres make 10 litres of wash solution, so a 500 millilitre bottle makes 200 litres. It's developed and produced in Baar-Ebenhausen, where the manufacturer has brought research, production and logistics together on one site since the new build in 2024.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe anionic surfactants lower the surface tension of the water far enough for a continuous slip layer to form between paint and wash mitt. In principle it's the same job the oil film does between piston and cylinder wall. For you that means the loose grit still sitting on the panel at the first pass rolls along in this film instead of pressing into the clear coat as an abrasive. The lever against swirls is the film, not the height of the suds in the bucket.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne dosing cap fills the bucket for a whole car.\u003c\/strong\u003e 25 millilitres to 10 litres of water is the manufacturer's figure, and even an estate doesn't need more. That turns a 500 millilitre bottle into 200 litres of wash solution, or 20 full buckets.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe neutral point protects what's already on the paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e The safety data sheet lists the pH as neutral; an independent re-measurement lands at 6.76, practically bang in the middle of the scale. You notice it because last month's spray sealant beads after the wash just like before.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMetallic, matte and wrap share the same dosing.\u003c\/strong\u003e Three paint types, matte and gloss wraps, plus nano and more scratch-resistant clear coats and the convertible roof are all on the same approval list. From new-car paint to a heavily weathered twelve-year-old, the 25 millilitres don't change.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e What we see a lot is the bucket being mixed by eye, a good glug until it foams. With the Speed Shampoo that quickly gets you to four times the intended 25 millilitres. Nothing gets any cleaner, because the cleaning power depends on the surfactants in the slip layer, not on the height of the suds. All you earn is a rinse that won't run clear and surfactant residue on rubber seals and trim. Measure once with the dosing cap and remember the fill line on the bucket.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSoaking and washing come out of the same bucket\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRinse off coarse dirt with water first, then let 25 millilitres of concentrate run into 10 litres of water and foam it up with a strong jet. Your wash solution is ready.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor heavy soiling, the instructions call for a second step with the same solution: foam the car thoroughly first, leave it briefly, then wash from top to bottom. The foam softens the traffic film so the mitt doesn't drag it dry across the panel. One bucket, two jobs, and the reason the active foam formula is in the name at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat formula is chemistry, not a slogan. Alongside the anionic surfactants the concentrate contains cocamidopropyl betaine, an amphoteric surfactant that's positively charged at one end and negatively at the other. It slots in between the harsher anionic molecules and stabilises the bubble walls. In practice: the foam stays on the bonnet while you wash the door, and you can see where you've already been.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBug residue and bird droppings are why the instructions describe the foaming step in the first place. Both are dried-on protein that can't be wiped away, only softened. Apply the wash solution generously to the front, mirrors and screen edge, give it a minute, then wipe off without pressure. Rub straight away and you push the hard residue across the clear coat like grit, and you'll still see that trail in low summer sun months later.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the two-bucket wash, put a second bucket of clean water next to it. After every pass the mitt goes in there and gets dragged over the grit guard at the bottom two or three times before it's allowed back into the wash solution. That keeps the grit you've lifted in the rinse bucket instead of in the shampoo. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-waschhandschuh-zubehoer\"\u003ewash mitt from the same line\u003c\/a\u003e releases the grit reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe order around the car saves you a second bucket change. Roof, glass and bonnet first, then the doors, and last of all sills, bumpers and wheel arches. That's where the brake dust sits, and it has no business in the mitt you're about to run over the bonnet again. Wash the lower section with a second mitt and the solution stays clean enough for a whole car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo conditions decide the result in the end, and both are on the product information sheet: don't work in the sun or on hot surfaces. The wash solution must not dry on. Then rinse top to bottom with a gentle stream and dry off the remaining water while the surface is still wet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-shampoo-autoshampoo_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867897\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Speed Shampoo being measured into the dosing cap over the wash bucket\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eA pH-neutral shampoo can't touch iron fallout and winter grime\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA pH-neutral shampoo dissolves road dirt, pollen and soot. Baked-in iron fallout, tar and the grey salt film after winter stay put, because the chemistry for that isn't there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's not a weakness of the formula, it's how it's built. A cleaner that breaks up grease and salt film works far above the neutral point and takes the wax layer along with the grease. The Speed Shampoo deliberately stays on the other side of that trade-off. If the grey film is sitting over the sills in March, an alkaline pre-cleaner goes first and the shampoo after.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is the kit. The dosing cap won't give you a carpet of foam for the foam lance, because at 1 to 400 there's simply too little surfactant in the reservoir to carry a foam that hangs vertically on the panel for two minutes. If a foam lance or pump sprayer is already on hand, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-power-foam-shampoo-schaumshampoo\"\u003efoam shampoo from the same line\u003c\/a\u003e is the right pick. If bucket and mitt are your tools, it's this one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third limit comes from the lab. In the car shampoo test by KÜS and AUTO BILD, issue 26 of 2022, the Speed Shampoo scored a grade of 1.2 and second place out of nine. Full marks of 50 out of 50 for cleaning power, 26 out of 30 for material compatibility. Among other things, polycarbonate was tested there over 48 hours at 80 degrees. So the only points it dropped weren't on cleanliness.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eTwenty buckets of wash solution in one 500 millilitre bottle\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA 500 millilitre bottle makes 200 litres of wash solution. At 10 litres per bucket, that's 20 washes without having to restock in between.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat makes the Speed Shampoo for anyone who washes their own car regularly and doesn't want to buy kit for it. If you grab the bucket every two to three weeks, one bottle lasts about a year. On a basement shelf that otherwise holds three half-used bottles, that's the tidier maths.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's less of a fit if you wash twice a year and want to get everything off in one go, because a maintenance shampoo isn't enough for built-up grime. And it brings no protection of its own. After the wash the paint is clean, nothing more. If you want beading, follow up with a spray wax or spray sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/autoshampoo\"\u003ecar shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e category, two designs sit side by side: maintenance shampoos like this one that leave the protective layer alone, and shampoos with wax or polymer content that add a bit of protection at every wash. The second sounds more convenient, but it builds thin layers that go patchy after a few washes. Keep it separate, wash here and protection there, and you stay in control of both.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe point that isn't on any bottle: the safety data sheet classifies the concentrate as clearly hazardous to water. For you that's less a chemistry question than a location question. The wash water belongs on a wash bay with an oil separator, not in the drain at the end of the drive. Many local authorities ban washing cars on your own property anyway; a look at the local bylaws takes five minutes. The hose at the wash bay also runs with a gentle stream, which is exactly what the final rinse wants.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707197968719,"sku":"D1-DRW-2760","price":12.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-shampoo-autoshampoo.png?v=1787867356"}],"url":"https:\/\/detiiling1.com\/collections\/dr-wack-autoshampoo.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}