{"title":"Dr. Wack","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eDr. Wack vehicle care from Ingolstadt since 1975\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is Dr. Wack? A German vehicle-care manufacturer from Ingolstadt, founded in 1975. The range splits into four lines: A1 for the car, S100 for the motorbike, P21S for wheels and paint, and CW1:100 for the glass. One brand, four clearly separated jobs.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack\u003c\/strong\u003e is the vehicle-care brand of Dr. O.K. Wack Chemie in Ingolstadt, which doesn't run its products as one big range but as four independent lines with a clear remit. A1 covers everyday car care, S100 specialises in the motorbike, P21S handles wheels and paint, CW1:100 keeps your view clear. Once you know which line does what, you'll find the right product in the range faster than by hunting for a product name.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFour lines instead of one big mush.\u003c\/strong\u003e A1, S100, P21S and CW1:100 aren't marketing sub-brands, they're separate ranges for separate jobs. You don't search through 80-plus products — you pick the line first, then the category. That saves you the detour through product names nobody remembers.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFounded in 1975, grown through specialisation.\u003c\/strong\u003e Founder Dr. Oskar K. Wack came from Procter and Gamble and started out with care chemistry for car and motorbike. S100, the first complete care line to treat a motorbike as a whole — metal, plastic, rubber and paint, not just the tank — came out of this house.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMade in Germany, all from one source.\u003c\/strong\u003e Development and production sit in Ingolstadt, and the Consumer Products arm has been running since 1975. For you that means the same formulas year after year — the wheel cleaner that worked two seasons ago does exactly the same job when you buy it again.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We often see customers buy one line thinking it's another, because the logos look alike. Remember the remit by substrate: A1 is the car all-rounder, P21S is the wheel-and-paint specialist, S100 belongs on the motorbike, CW1:100 goes in the washer-fluid tank. Reach for the S100 cleaner on your car and you'll still get a good product — just one built for the bare metal on a bike, not for the usual car wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFrom the stainless-steel pot to vehicle care in Ingolstadt\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe brand starts in 1975 with a chemist who had previously helped develop the cleaner Meister Proper at Procter and Gamble. Dr. Oskar K. Wack set up his own house first with a cleaner for stainless-steel pots, then quickly switched to vehicle care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn 1977 the company moved to Ingolstadt, where development and production still sit today. The one firm became two arms: Consumer Products for car, motorbike and bicycle care, and from 1990 the Zestron division, which makes cleaning media for electronics manufacturing. The same precision that circuit-board cleaning demands is baked into the standard of the care products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor your buying decision this background is more than an anecdote. A brand that has kept the same lines for half a century and produces in Germany rarely changes its formulas overnight. That's why experienced users describe the brand as predictable — a product that worked once behaves the same when you buy it again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat predictability is rarer on the care shelf than it sounds. Plenty of products swap formula and name every season, so the repeat buy turns into a gamble. Here the line logic stays stable for years, which makes building your own routine easier — you learn once how a product works and don't have to figure it out fresh every season.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe four lines and their flagships\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEach line has one or two products that show its character. Know those and you'll grasp the whole range faster than through a list of every item.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-a1\"\u003eA1 car care\u003c\/a\u003e it's the Speed trio of Speed Shampoo, Speed Polish and Spray Wax — three products for quick maintenance care that bring a well-kept car back to a shine in about 30 minutes. A1 is the all-rounder for the weekend detailing spot, not for heavy correction. The line covers wash, interior, leather, polish and sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-p21s\"\u003eP21S wheel care\u003c\/a\u003e is the brand's high-end line and made its name through its wheel cleaner. POWER GEL and HIGH END dissolve baked-on brake dust acid-free and with a colour change — the cleaner turns colour wherever it attacks the iron-rich deposit. Add wheel wax and tyre shine, and the wheel gets cleaned and protected in one pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-s100\"\u003eS100 motorbike care\u003c\/a\u003e counts as the first complete care line for the bike and thinks in mixed materials: metal, plastic, rubber and paint on one machine. Its core is chain care — a chain cleaner and several chain sprays. With CW1:100 the flagship is the Super screen wash, a concentrate for the washer fluid that also comes in a 2.8-litre container.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe chain sprays show the line's depth of detail. S100 offers them in several versions — from the classic spray through the transparent dry-lube variant to the white chain spray that spreads clearly visible on the chain. Which one fits depends on chain type and riding profile, not on price. That's the difference between a one-size-fits-all bottle and a line that has several matched answers for one job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCutting across all four lines is the wash gear. The Magic Bucket system of bucket, Dirt-Lock insert and Scrub-Wall separates the loosened dirt from the clean water, so the wash mitt picks up clean foam again after every dip. Day-to-day this is the simplest lever against wash scratches, long before the choice of polish even matters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow the four lines form one system together\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe brand's strength isn't in single bottles but in the way the lines complement each other on a car instead of overlapping. Each one owns a substrate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn the car A1 takes the panels and the interior, P21S the wheel. That's not chance, it's division of labour: a wheel cleaner needs different chemistry than a paint shampoo, because baked-on brake dust sits more aggressively than road film on the wing. Solve both jobs with one universal product and you compromise in both places. Splitting them into A1 and P21S takes exactly those compromises off your hands.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn the motorbike S100 bundles everything, because a bike makes different demands than a car. An exposed chain, hot metal parts, a delicate seat and a helmet visor need matched products that a car range doesn't bring. CW1:100 sits across everything, because a clear view is no question of vehicle type — the screen-wash concentrate runs in the car just as it does in the motorhome.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe wash gear closes the loop. One brand, four lines, one continuous care idea from pre-wash to sealant. Once you've grasped the system you no longer buy by bottle looks but by job — and reach straight for the right line on the shelf instead of comparing three labels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow you work your way through vehicle care\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe sensible order runs from coarse to fine and from top to bottom. Stick to it and you save yourself double work and protect the paint from avoidable scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn the car you start with the wheel, because P21S cleaner splashes and otherwise the paint would have to be cleaned twice. Spray wheel cleaner onto the cold, dry wheel, let it work for 3 to 5 minutes until the colour change is there, then rinse off with brush and pressure. Only then comes the wash with A1 shampoo, followed by polish and spray wax on the dry paint. You let A1 Spray Wax grab for about 2 minutes and then wipe it off with a dry microfibre cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn the motorbike the chain takes centre stage. Dissolve the chain cleaner, work it through with the brush, rinse off and let the chain dry before fresh chain spray goes on in a thin coat. After about 10 minutes of flashing off it's ready to ride. S100 deliberately splits cleaner and spray, because old grease and dirt have to come off before lubing. The paint and the plastic parts are then handled by the S100 quick cleaner, which comes in the 500 ml spray bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe glass is the last step before the ride. CW1:100 gets dosed into the washer fluid as a concentrate and loosens insect residue on the move, instead of letting it smear across the windscreen. The dried-on insect film on the front and mirrors gets lifted off beforehand by the insect-remover gel. That keeps your view clear without you having to scrub at a standstill.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHow often each step is due depends on your riding profile. The wash with A1 pays off every one to two weeks, the wheel clean with P21S as needed, as soon as brake dust shows. Spray wax and sealant hold for several weeks depending on the weather, and chain care on the motorbike goes by the kilometres ridden and the conditions. Know the intervals and you buy on target, instead of standing ten half-open bottles on the shelf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere Dr. Wack sits between hobby and pro\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePlaced honestly, the brand sits in the solid midfield with a few outliers on the upside. It's broader than pure pro lines and more approachable than the hobby shelves at the DIY store.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIts biggest strength is the breadth across four vehicle areas from one source. If you want to cover car, motorbike and clear view with one brand, you don't have to mix three makers and hope the products get along. The P21S wheel cleaner plays in a higher league than the rest and is prized even by users who otherwise reach for specialist detailing brands.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe honest limit: the brand isn't a supplier for no-compromise paint correction with cutting polishes in five cut stages, or for multi-year ceramic coatings. The A1 polish is a hand polish for upkeep, not a machine polish for deep scratches. If you're after serious paint correction in that sense, you pair the brand with a specialist polishing or sealant system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat placement isn't a weakness, it's a question of ambition. For the regular care that keeps a vehicle clean, protected and holding its value, the range covers everyday life reliably. For the last bit of concours shine or the reconditioning of a heavily weathered paint, you need extra tools that the brand deliberately doesn't set out to replace.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich line fits your vehicle\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the end it's the vehicle that decides, not the brand name. Three questions take you quickly to the right line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you mostly drive a car and want one brand for wash, interior and paint, A1 is your entry, rounded out with P21S for the wheel. That combination covers the complete car care and is the most common way into the range. You add the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-cw1-100-super-scheibenreiniger-scheibenreiniger\"\u003eCW1:100 Super screen wash\u003c\/a\u003e for the washer fluid, because it's needed all year round.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're a rider, you start with S100, because no car line handles the mixed materials and the exposed chain of a bike cleanly. Chain care is the first buy here, the motorbike cleaner the second. Ride both worlds and you pair A1 or P21S for the car with S100 for the bike and still keep everything with one brand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf it's mostly about wheels that are full of brake dust after every drive, the road leads straight to P21S. Day-to-day, the wheel cleaner is the product most customers first get to know the brand through, and the one they then find the other lines from. All four ranges are sorted by application, so from the line you land on the specific category in one step, instead of clicking through an unsorted overall shelf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot sure where to start, the wheel cleaner is the most pragmatic first grab. It shows a visible result fastest, because clean wheels often make more of a well-kept car than any other single move. From there you build the routine in the direction your vehicle demands — car, motorbike or simply a clear view. The range grows with your ambition, instead of forcing you straight into a complete set that stands half unused in the cupboard and dries out by next spring.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","products":[{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-innenraumreiniger-glasreiniger","title":"A1 \"ALL in ONE\" Interior \u0026 Glass Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 ALL in ONE Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner does the dash and the glass without leaving streaks\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 ALL in ONE Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner? A ready-to-use interior cleaner from Dr. Wack, set slightly acidic at pH 5.5, that works on glass, screens, dash, fabric, Alcantara, leather and piano black. Not a degreaser for heavy grease films, and no substitute for a dedicated upholstery cleaner.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 ALL in ONE Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is a ready-to-use interior cleaner from Dr. Wack that pulls eight material groups onto a single approval list: glass inside and out, screens, plastic and dash, fabric and upholstery, Alcantara, leather and synthetic leather, paint and piano black, plus vinyl. Nothing gets diluted and there is no dwell time. The cloth does the dosing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThere are six different materials between the steering wheel and the windscreen, and every one of them reacts differently to the same cleaner. An alkaline all-purpose cleaner gets the footwell clean and, over time, eats into the topcoat on a leather seat back. On glass it leaves exactly the haze you set out to wipe off. That is why three bottles stand side by side in so many boots, all-purpose cleaner, glass cleaner and plastic dressing, and why the interior still gets left longer than the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhy one bottle is enough here is on the safety data sheet, not on the front label: pH 5.5 at 20 °C, measured to DIN 19268. That sits slightly on the acidic side, roughly where shower gel is set, and so on the other side of neutral from the alkaline all-purpose cleaners the scene calls APC. For you that means the same bottle that just did the side window can go onto the leather seat bolster without a second thought.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack names two additives outright: an antistatic finish and a built-in odour killer. Antistatic means the ultra-thin layer left behind bleeds off the charge that builds on plastic while you wipe. Without it, a freshly wiped dashboard pulls dust in like a balloon you have just rubbed on your sleeve. Day-to-day: the dash dusts over later instead of straight away. There is no number on the effect, though, since neither the manufacturer's page nor the data sheet commits to a figure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEight material groups on one approval list.\u003c\/strong\u003e Glass inside and out, screens, plastic and dash, fabric and upholstery, Alcantara, leather and synthetic leather, paint and piano black, vinyl. Reading the label before you touch the next surface drops out of the job for the whole cabin. The outside glass is explicitly on the list too, which is rare for an interior cleaner.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH 5.5 instead of alkaline.\u003c\/strong\u003e The safety data sheet quotes 5.5 plus\/minus 0.2 at 20 °C to DIN 19268. Slightly acidic rather than alkaline is why leather, Alcantara and piano black are allowed on the same list as the glass. And it is the same reason the product is not a degreaser.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree sizes, three jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e 100 ml for the glovebox, 500 ml with a trigger head for the shelf, 750 ml as the Limited Edition 2025. Per litre, the 750 ml bottle works out at less than a third of the 100 ml one. With the small bottle you pay for where it fits, not for what is in it.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e What we see a lot is Alcantara getting treated like ordinary cloth: spray it on, scrub hard, done. Dr. Wack specifies the opposite for Alcantara, namely straight onto the spot, no dwell time, light pressure, no rubbing. The reason is mechanical: scrub it and the pile of the microfibre suede lies down one way and picks up shiny patches that no cleaner brings back. Work in dabs, turn the cloth often, and lift the pile again at the end by going across it with the dry side.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOnly the glass gets sprayed directly, everything else goes through the cloth\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThree groups of surface, three ways to spray: glass takes the jet, plastic and screens take it via the cloth, fabric gets it spot-on onto the mark.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe bottle wants a shake before the first pull of the trigger, and the nozzle has to be turned from Stop to Spray. For the glass you spray straight onto the pane, clean with a waffle-weave or glass cloth, then run a dry side of the cloth over the already dry pane. That second, dry pass is what decides whether you get streaks, and it is the one people skip most often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eScreens, dash, piano black and painted trim never get the product straight on. There you spray into the microfibre cloth and work the surface with that, following up with a dry side if it needs it. The reason is not the chemistry, it is the seam: overspray that lands on a screen runs into the gap between glass and trim and sits there, where you can no longer reach it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFabric, upholstery and Alcantara are the third case. Here the product goes straight onto the dirty spot again, no dwell time and light pressure, because you want the loosened mark to travel up out of the weave into the cloth and not deeper in. On Alcantara the rule from the tip above applies on top of that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhether the glass ends up streak-free comes down to the pile and to whatever was in that cloth before. Dr. Wack puts its own \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-mikrofasertuch-mikrofasertuch\"\u003emicrofibre cloth\u003c\/a\u003e alongside the product, matched to the way it works and with overlocked edges so nothing scratches on screens or piano black. Still keep your cloths sorted by surface: one that has seen plastic dressing carries silicone into the glass and wrecks every dry pass you make.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe order inside the car sounds obvious and still gets done wrong: headliner and dash first, then door cards, then seats, glass last. Start with the windscreen and you wipe it twice, because dusting the dashboard puts dust and overspray straight back onto it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-innenraumreiniger-glasreiniger_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867745\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 ALL in ONE Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner being sprayed onto the microfibre cloth in front of the steering wheel\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGrease films and old upholstery stains are not its patch\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cleaner works with no dwell time, and whatever does not go into solution in that second will not come off on the third wipe either.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003epH 5.5 is the strength of this product and its limit at the same time. A film of smoke, chip fat or years of hand sweat on the centre console needs an alkaline cleaner that turns the fatty acids into soap and makes them water-soluble. A slightly acidic interior cleaner cannot do that, however many passes you make. If the cloth still comes up brown after the third pass, it is the wrong cleaner and not too little pressure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second blind spot is the upholstery. Fresh coffee on a seat comes away cleanly with the Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner. A stain that has sat in the weave for three weeks needs dwell time, foam and a tool with bristles. For that, the same line carries the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-polster-alcantara-reiniger-pro-textilreiniger\"\u003eupholstery and Alcantara cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e as the specialist. Fresh, take the all-rounder. Dried in, take the specialist.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third limit sits in the word cleaner. Cleaning and conditioning are two steps, and this product only does the first. On leather it lifts the hand grime off the topcoat but gives back neither suppleness nor protection, and on plastic it leaves no care layer with UV protection. If you want deep black on the dashboard after the wipe, you need a plastic dressing afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe fourth limit is on the glass. As a glass cleaner the product gets the pane clean and streak-free, it does not seal it. Nothing repels water afterwards, there is no beading and no rain-repellent effect, that is a glass sealant's job. The approval for outside glass means cleaning: bug splatter that has stood in the sun for two days is still a case for a bug remover.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe fifth limit is not a material limit but a handling one, and it is up in the tip above. That leaves the honest frame: eight material groups, mild chemistry, no heavy lifting. A decathlete does not win the 100 metres, and that is exactly what this product is inside the car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDo the interior every couple of weeks and you do not need five bottles\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs an interior cleaner the product earns its place with anyone who does the cabin regularly in one pass and does not want to swap between four bottles while doing it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt makes less sense if you set aside one deep clean a year. What you are missing then is a vacuum first and a cleaner with dwell time second, not an all-rounder. And if you detail for a living, a concentrate plus your own fabric chemistry gets you further for less.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack splits the sizes cleanly. The 500 ml bottle with the trigger head is the version for the shelf, the 750 ml of the Limited Edition 2025 is the same formula with more in it. The safety data sheet for the A1 ALL in ONE Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner lists all three part numbers together. The 100 ml bottle is not a budget version, it is a decision about where it lives: glovebox, company car, fingerprint on the screen before a meeting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the shelf the product stands between two camps. On one side the alkaline all-purpose cleaners, which have more power and ask for more care. On the other the specialists for one surface each, from a pure glass cleaner to a fabric foam. What else is lined up next to it is in the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/innenraumreiniger\"\u003einterior cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e category. This product is the answer there to the question about the one bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn storage the safety data sheet says two things: keep it from freezing and store it away from food. So the 100 ml bottle belongs in the glovebox and not in an unheated store room over winter. The product is built in Baar-Ebenhausen, where Dr. Wack has had development, production and logistics on one site since the 2024 new build.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe trick no manufacturer writes down costs nothing and saves you the second lap: wipe the glass horizontally on the inside and vertically on the outside. If a streak is left standing, its direction tells you which side it is on. Horizontal means inside, vertical means outside. Because this product is approved for both sides, you make both passes with the same bottle and do not have to guess while you walk round the car three times.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-innenraumreiniger-glasreiniger_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867749\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Bottle of A1 ALL in ONE Interior \u0026amp; Glass Cleaner next to the folded microfibre cloth inside the car\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707180208463,"sku":"D1-DRW-2570","price":13.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"100 ml","offer_id":58584739119439,"sku":"D1-DRW-2571","price":6.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"750 ml (Limited Edition 2025)","offer_id":54731389632847,"sku":"D1-DRW-2573","price":15.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-innenraumreiniger-glasreiniger.png?v=1787867102"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-intensivreiniger-aussen-intensivreiniger","title":"A1 \"ALL in ONE\" Heavy-duty cleaner (exterior)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eThe A1 ALL in ONE heavy-duty cleaner lifts what the wash mitt would otherwise grind in\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 ALL in ONE heavy-duty cleaner? A solvent-free pre-cleaner from Dr. Wack for all exterior surfaces that loosens baked-on bugs, bird droppings, tree sap, tar and old wax layers instead of rubbing them off. Not for matte paint, not for matte wraps, and no substitute for shampoo.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe A1 ALL in ONE heavy-duty cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pre-cleaner in the A1 line for every exterior surface: paint, plastic, metal, glass, headlights and every kind of wheel. Dr. Wack puts it before the wash, not in place of it. A little goes onto the wet wash mitt or sponge, gets worked in with light pressure and is then rinsed off with plenty of water. There's no dilution; you control the amount via the sponge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePush a dried-on bug with your wash mitt and you drag a hard chitin shell across the clear coat. That's the exact moment swirls are born: the haze of fine scratches you only notice when the sun sits low over the bonnet. This product comes before that. Its anionic surfactants creep under the bond between the deposit and the paint, much like water softening a sticker. The spot isn't ripped off, the grip is released. For you that means the residue floats away when you rinse, and your hand doesn't have to push anything.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cleaner is formulated and bottled by Dr. O.K. Wack Chemie in Baar-Ebenhausen. In the product information sheet the manufacturer is unusually frank about the claim: until now, these four types of contamination could only be removed with several specialist products, some of them aggressive. So it's not about the top score on each individual stain, but one bottle for four jobs that would otherwise sit side by side on the shelf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFour specialists in one bottle.\u003c\/strong\u003e Bugs, bird droppings, sap and tar spots, plus old wax and sealant layers are all on the same approval list, together with paint, plastic, metal, glass, headlights and every wheel type. Moving from the wing to the headlight, you don't have to read a second label.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree minutes is the ceiling, not the starting point.\u003c\/strong\u003e Normally you work with no dwell time at all: apply, work in, rinse. Only if a spot is still there after the first pass does Dr. Wack allow a second round with a maximum of 3 minutes, explicitly on small areas.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo sizes for two situations.\u003c\/strong\u003e 500 ml for the planned wash at home, 50 ml for on the road. The price per litre of the small bottle is a good three times higher. Carry it anyway and you save the days the bird droppings would otherwise sit on the paint.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e What we see a lot is the ALL in ONE being used like a spray cleaner: sprayed all over dry paint, then left to sit in the sun. Dr. Wack says the opposite. A little goes on the wet sponge, not on the panel, and it must not dry on. The 3 minutes on the data sheet are the ceiling for a second pass on a small area, not a starting value. If something has dried on anyway, only water and a fresh start will help.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAfter the pre-rinse and before the shampoo comes the ALL in ONE\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCoarse dirt gets rinsed off first with plenty of water, then the heavy-duty cleaner goes onto the wet wash mitt, and only after that do you run the normal wash with shampoo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's the order in the product information sheet, and it still gets flipped all the time. Step one is water, not chemistry. Loose grit, gritting salt and traffic film on the paint have to come off before any textile touches the panel. Put the cleaner on an unrinsed bonnet and you grind in exactly the particles the product can do nothing about.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen shake the bottle and put a little product on the wet sponge or wash mitt. Dr. Wack recommends its own A1 wash mitt made of premium microfibre. Work it in with light pressure, and light is an instruction here, not a courtesy: the cleaner is meant to break the bond, your arm isn't meant to shear anything off. If a spot is stubborn, add more product instead of pressing harder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf a sap spot is still there after the first pass, go for the second one: apply product again, leave it for a maximum of 3 minutes, work over it with light pressure, rinse. That applies to spots and palm-sized patches, not a whole door. Finally, rinse with plenty of water until no product residue runs off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn practice it pays to think of the car in zones. Bugs sit on the front, mirror backs and mirror bases, tar on the sills and behind the wheels, sap mostly on the roof and bonnet. Those zones get the heavy-duty cleaner, the rest gets shampoo. Use a separate towel for wheels, because brake dust doesn't belong in the mitt you're about to run over the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThere's a technical reason Dr. Wack lists the formula as solvent-free for this job. Cleaners that attack sap and tar with strong solvents can swell plastic and dry out rubber seals. Here surfactants do the work, which is why the same mitt can go over paint, polycarbonate headlights, trim strips and window seals. In day-to-day terms: one product, one lap, no switching at every material boundary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-intensivreiniger-aussen-intensivreiniger_anwendung_3.jpg?v=1787867762\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Wash mitt with A1 ALL in ONE heavy-duty cleaner on a foamed-up grille\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMatte paint and matte wrap don't get along with the heavy-duty cleaner\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack explicitly rules out matte paints and matte wraps. On all other exterior surfaces the product is approved, and there it takes off the existing sealant along with the dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMatte surfaces get their look from a roughened structure that scatters light in every direction. A cleaner that strips wax and sealant layers works right into that structure and can smooth it in places. Then a surface that's meant to stay matte starts to shine, and you can't polish that back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is deliberate and listed as a product benefit on the data sheet: the ALL in ONE strips wax and sealant layers. Before a polish or a fresh sealant, that's exactly what you want. For the Saturday wash, it means the paint is less protected afterwards than before. So plan the protection into the same session, for example with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-care-und-protect-spruehversiegelung\"\u003espray sealant for all exterior surfaces\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cleaner doesn't dissolve iron. If the paint feels gritty after the wash, there are fallout particles in it, meaning fine brake dust and rail dust embedded in the clear coat. That needs a product that binds iron chemically; in the range, that's the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-flugrost-entferner-gel-flugrostentferner\"\u003eA1 \"Flugrost-Entferner Gel\" iron remover\u003c\/a\u003e. The ALL in ONE has no abrasives either: swirls and scratches stay where they are.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat gives you the buying rule. If only the front is plastered with bugs after a motorway run, a dedicated \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/insektenentferner\"\u003ebug remover\u003c\/a\u003e is enough, and your sealant stays put. If bugs, sap, tar and a tired wax layer all come together on the same car, the ALL in ONE saves you three bottles and half an afternoon.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-intensivreiniger-aussen-intensivreiniger_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867758\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Bottle of A1 ALL in ONE heavy-duty cleaner on the wash bucket in front of the foamed car\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe ALL in ONE is a decon step, not a weekend cleaner\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTwice a year is the right rhythm: once at the start of the season and once before you polish and seal again. For the weekly wash, this cleaner is too thorough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDecon is scene shorthand for decontamination, meaning everything that has to come off the surface before polish and sealant. The step has two halves, an organic one and a metallic one. The A1 ALL in ONE heavy-duty cleaner handles the organic half, clears bugs, bird droppings, sap and tar and takes the old protective layer with it. The metallic half stays the job of the iron remover.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you wash your car every week and want to keep the sealant intact, a normal shampoo serves you better. Then there's consumption: testers report that a 500 ml bottle stretches to more than one wash depending on car size and dosing, but it isn't meant for a whole season of Saturdays. That fits what the product is supposed to do.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe two sizes map exactly onto those roles. The 500 ml bottle is the planned option and sits on the shelf next to the bucket and mitt. The 50 ml bottle is the unplanned one, 12.5 centimetres tall and so it fits in the door pocket. One detail the manufacturer never connects: the bottle mustn't see temperatures above 50 °C, and a closed car in the summer sun blows past that mark. In high summer it belongs in the shade of the footwell, or back inside with you in the evening.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe two dates in the year pick themselves. In spring the car is wearing the bug layer from the first warm weeks and the winter's traffic film, and that's exactly when you polish and seal anyway. The second date falls in late summer, when conifer sap and the sticky coating from lime trees sit on the roof and bonnet and the heat has made tar soft enough to settle into the sills.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe strongest reason to carry the small bottle at all isn't on any label: bird droppings aren't a chemistry problem, they're a time problem. They etch for as long as they sit there, and the warmer the paint, the faster. The other side of the equation is just as clear-cut. If you plan the heavy-duty cleaner, plan the protection afterwards too. Put both into the same afternoon and you get bare, clean paint with a fresh sealant. The cleaner alone just gets you bare paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-intensivreiniger-aussen-intensivreiniger_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867754\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 ALL in ONE heavy-duty cleaner next to the A1 wash mitt made of premium microfibre\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500 ml","offer_id":58584749211983,"sku":"D1-DRW-2625","price":15.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"50 ml","offer_id":58584740790607,"sku":"D1-DRW-2626","price":5.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-intensivreiniger-aussen-intensivreiniger.png?v=1787867119"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-mikrofasertuch-mikrofasertuch","title":"A1 \"ALL in ONE\" Microfibre Cloth","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eOne A1 \"ALL in ONE\" Microfibre Cloth covers every surface in the cabin\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 \"ALL in ONE\" Microfibre Cloth? A flat-weave working cloth made of 80 percent polyester and 20 percent polyamide with an overlocked edge, approved by the manufacturer for glass, displays, dashboard, upholstery, Alcantara, leather, piano black and vinyl. Not meant for wax on paint, for drying the car or for coated displays.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"ALL in ONE\" Microfibre Cloth\u003c\/strong\u003e is the working cloth of the A1 range from Dr. Wack in Baar-Ebenhausen. It has exactly one job: to lift the sprayed-on cleaner and the loosened film back off the surface instead of spreading it around. It's listed as the recommended accessory in the product information sheet for the A1 \"ALL in ONE\" interior \u0026amp; glass cleaner. Cleaner and cloth were developed as a pair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMicrofibre is a measure of fineness, not a brand name. A thread counts as microfibre below one decitex, meaning ten thousand metres of it weigh less than a gram; 0.3 to 0.8 is typical. For comparison, silk sits at 1.3 and cotton at 1.5 to 2.5.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo under the same palm there are many times more fibre ends touching the glass, and each one draws liquid into the gaps by capillary action. Day to day, that means the loosened film travels up into the weave instead of running ahead of the fibre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe blend tells you what this cloth is built for. Polyester provides the edges and tear strength; polyamide is the part that actually takes water into the fibre — around three to four percent of its own weight under standard conditions. Polyester stays well below that. With 20 percent polyamide, the A1 \"ALL in ONE\" Microfibre Cloth deliberately leans to the absorbent side. You'll notice it: it picks the spray mist off the glass instead of leaving it sitting there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a flat-weave cloth, the edge is a decision in its own right. Where fabric is simply cut, the threads fray and leave exactly the lint that jumps out at you on freshly cleaned glass. That's why Dr. Wack overlocks the edge and lists it as a product benefit of its own in the information sheet. The seam here isn't cost-cutting, it's what keeps the edge calm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhy one single construction can handle both glass and Alcantara comes down to the kind of work. Nothing gets cut back in the cabin; you're only picking up a loosened film. The scratch risk isn't decided by the fibre but by what it has loaded up beforehand. Everything further down about order and number of cloths follows from exactly that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEight surface groups, one construction.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cloth is approved for piano black and painted trim, displays, leather and faux leather, Alcantara, textile and upholstery, dashboard plastic, vinyl, and glass inside and out. Until now, those eight groups meant half a range of specialist cloths in the drawer, each with its own fibre and its own edge.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo to three cloths for a complete interior.\u003c\/strong\u003e For a full clean, Dr. Wack sets out an order across five stations and explicitly recommends two to three cloths for it. A single one won't make it all the way from the displays to the door sills, because it fills up along the way.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAround 300 wash cycles, tumble-dry up to 60 degrees.\u003c\/strong\u003e The manufacturer quotes about 300 washes, allows 60 degrees in the washer and dryer and rules out fabric softener and bleach. Worked out on 9.99 euros, that puts one use at a little over three cents.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We often get questions about streaks on the windscreen that aren't down to the chemistry but to the order. If you do the dashboard first and the glass after, you carry the oils from the plastic dressing onto the glass with the same cloth. Polyester is the oil-loving part of the fibre and only lets go of them in the wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003eThat's why Dr. Wack sets the order itself: displays, inside glass, outside glass, then dashboard, seats and panels, and last of all door sills and tailgate seams. Mark the glass cloth on one corner and never let it near the dashboard.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe glass only goes streak-free on the dry follow-up wipe\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA loosened film that no dry fibre picks up dries back onto the glass as a haze, which is why the same cloth goes over the same area twice. Damp first, then dry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the cleaner goes depends on the surface. Only glass can take the spray directly; everywhere else the cloth takes the liquid before it touches the surface. That way nothing gets into gaps, switches or air vents.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTextile, upholstery and Alcantara get the cleaner on the stain and are worked with pressure, no dwell time. Same for leather, faux leather and piano black, followed by a dry side. On upholstery it's pressure that counts, not quantity, because the cleaner works without dwell time and the fibre has to carry the loosened dirt away mechanically.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs soon as there's no dry spot left, the cloth stops working. For that moment, Dr. Wack plans a second cloth instead of wiping on. A soaked cloth no longer picks up film, it drags it across the glass in tracks — and that's exactly what most people blame on the cleaner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-innenraumreiniger-glasreiniger\"\u003einterior and glass cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e from the same range is the partner this cloth was built for. Both are in the same product information sheet, with the cloth explicitly recommended as the accessory for working it. Combine the two and you're working with the routine the formula was designed around.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhile the film is still damp, the fibre does the work. Once it's dried on, only the chemistry is working — then pressing harder won't help, but a second spray and a few seconds' patience will. On your first complete run, you'll notice by the outside glass at the latest that the first cloth is full. That's not a beginner's mistake, it's the reason for the two-to-three recommendation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe cloth isn't built for wax, drying or wheels\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe low pile of this cloth is designed for control, not volume, so its remit ends wherever bulk is needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWax and polish residue need pile height. They have to disappear into the pile instead of staying between fibre and clear coat, and a flat-weave cloth doesn't have that room. For the final wipe on paint, the same range carries the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-das-tuch-premium-mikrofaser-mikrofasertuch\"\u003edeep-pile premium microfibre cloth\u003c\/a\u003e. Two cloths from one maker, two different jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor drying the car, it simply lacks the reservoir. After a wash, the roof, bonnet, boot lid and doors hold many times more water than an interior cloth can take. In practice, glass and interior cloths sit at 200 to 400 g\/m², while \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/trockentucher\"\u003edrying towels\u003c\/a\u003e start at around 500 and go past 1,000.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt stops at the bottom end too. A cloth that's been on wheels, door sills or wheel arches carries grit in its pile — fine, hard particles that end up between fibre and surface. After that it doesn't belong on a display or a piano black trim anymore, no matter how often you wash it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack names one exception itself, and it sits right in the middle of the cabin. On coated displays, for example with an anti-glare layer, the cleaner-and-cloth combo isn't approved; there, the display manufacturer's care instructions apply.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA dried-on film of grease or nicotine isn't a question of the cloth anyway. The fibre carries away what's been loosened, nothing more. Even the antistatic, dust-repelling effect many people credit to the cloth is in the cleaner's data sheet, not the cloth's. The cloth does the handling, the chemistry does the work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThree cloths per interior isn't a sales trick\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith just one cloth you'll get stuck somewhere between dashboard and door sill, which is exactly why the product information sheet lists two to three cloths per interior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor a rough once-over twice a year, a single cloth is enough, and that's the honest answer if a clean car is all you're after. If you do the whole interior in one go, though, it's three: one for displays and glass, one for dashboard, seats and panels, one for the sills.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you buy on specs, here are the key figures straight up: 80 to 20 blend, overlocked edge, washer and dryer up to 60 degrees, no fabric softener or bleach, around 300 cycles, made in Germany. And if you've already got the matching cleaner on the shelf, this is the working cloth designed for it — not the next all-purpose rag from the DIY store.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners, it's the calmer route. One cloth type for every surface takes away the question of which fibre is allowed on which surface and leaves just one rule: start clean, work in the set order, swap in time. Buy five specialist cloths instead, and you've got five chances to grab the wrong one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat tips the maths in practice isn't wear but what the pile has picked up. A cloth that keeps handling plastic dressing will eventually still be fine for seats and panels, but not for the windscreen anymore. So its usable life is decided by what you assign it to, not by the washing machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the end, the biggest difference comes from the fold, not the purchase. Fold the cloth once and only ever spray into one half; the other stays dry and is reserved for the follow-up wipe. Stick to that and you'll read the two-to-three recommendation differently: you're not buying cloths, you're buying dry surface. And in a car interior, that always runs out before the fibre does.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"Hellgrau \/ 1 Stück","offer_id":58086544572751,"sku":"D1-DRW-8001","price":9.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-mikrofasertuch-mikrofasertuch.png?v=1787867138"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-impraegnierer-textilimpraegnierung","title":"A1 Cabrio \"Verdeck-Imprägnierer\" Fabric waterproofing","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eDr. Wack A1 Cabrio \"Verdeck-Imprägnierer\" macht das Stoffverdeck wasserabweisend und lässt es atmen\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWas ist der Dr. Wack A1 Cabrio \"Verdeck-Imprägnierer\"? Ein Imprägnierspray aus der 400-ml-Dose für Cabrio-Verdecke aus Textil, also Baumwoll-Mischgewebe, Acryl oder Dralon. Er reinigt nicht, er färbt nicht nach, und für Verdecke aus Weich-PVC, Vinyl oder Kunstleder ist er ausdrücklich nicht vorgesehen.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack A1 Cabrio \"Verdeck-Imprägnierer\"\u003c\/strong\u003e ist eine Textilimprägnierung von Dr. Wack, die den einzelnen Faden umhüllt statt eine Haut über das Gewebe zu ziehen. Der Hersteller beschreibt es so: Die Wirkstoffe legen sich um jede Faser und richten sich beim Trocknen auf wie viele kleine Regenschirme nebeneinander. Zwischen diesen Schirmen bleibt der Stoff offen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDaran hängt der ganze Unterschied zwischen Imprägnieren und Abdichten. Eine Plane hält Wasser, weil sie keine Löcher hat. Ein imprägniertes Verdeck hält Wasser, weil das Wasser die Faser nicht mehr benetzen mag: Es zieht sich mit rund 72 mN\/m Oberflächenspannung zur Kugel zusammen und findet auf der energiearmen Faseroberfläche keinen Halt zum Ausbreiten.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHeißt für dich: Die Zwischenräume im Gewebe bleiben durchgängig, Luft und Wasserdampf ziehen weiter hindurch. Ein Verdeck, das man stattdessen mit einem geschlossenen Film überzieht, hält den Regen zwar auch draußen und sperrt die Feuchtigkeit aus dem Innenraum dafür ein. Das Ergebnis kennt jeder, der schon mal unter einer Plastikplane geschlafen hat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTestsieger mit Messprotokoll.\u003c\/strong\u003e KÜS, AUTO BILD und AUTO BILD Klassik haben 2020 zehn Cabrioverdeck-Imprägnierer im chemischen Fachlabor auf identischem schwarzem Verdeckstoff geprüft, die Wasserabweisung über zehn Durchgänge am Spray-Rating-Tester. Der A1 bekam als einziger das Prädikat sehr empfehlenswert: wasser- und ölabweisend, rückstandsfrei und einfach zu verarbeiten. Fünf der zehn Produkte fielen durch.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eÖl prallt ab, nicht nur Regen.\u003c\/strong\u003e Die Ölabweisung wurde im selben Test mit Ölen geprüft, deren Oberflächenspannung der von Baumharzen ähnelt. Praktisch heißt das: Harz, Vogelkot und Straßenfilm finden schwerer Halt, und du musst seltener mit Schwamm und Schaum in ein Gewebe, dem Dr. Wack selbst nur eine geringe Scheuerfestigkeit bescheinigt.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e400 ml, PFAS-frei, nicht nur fürs Auto.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack führt die aktuelle Rezeptur als 100 Prozent PFAS-frei. Freigegeben ist die Dose außerdem für Markisen, Zelte und textile Kleidung, also für die Sachen, die neben dem Cabrio in derselben Garage liegen und denselben Nässeschutz brauchen.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePraxistipp von Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Aus unserer Praxis kostet vor allem ein Ablauf die Wirkung: Es wird in die Sonne gesprüht, weil das Verdeck dort schneller trocknet. Dr. Wack schreibt es genau umgekehrt in die eigenen Pflegetipps. Aufgesprüht wird an einem kühlen, sonnengeschützten Ort. Erst wenn das Verdeck gut ausgelüftet ist, kommt der Wagen in die Sonne, weil die Wärme das Aufrichten der Wirkstoffe erleichtert. Der Auftrag kostet je Lage keine 10 Minuten. Die Sonne danach macht die eigentliche Arbeit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMehrere dünne Lagen schlagen den einen satten Auftrag\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDose schütteln, aus rund 20 Zentimetern Abstand dünn und gleichmäßig aufsprühen, ablüften lassen, dann eine zweite dünne Lage nachlegen und bereits behandelte Stellen bewusst nicht noch einmal überfahren.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDer Grund steht in der Mechanik. Die Wirkstoffe müssen sich beim Trocknen aufstellen, und dafür brauchen sie Platz und Luft an der Faser. Wer die Fläche sattmacht, bis sie glänzt, schwemmt sie zusammen, statt sie aufzurichten. Dr. Wack formuliert es als Verbot: Durchnässen der besprühten Flächen vermeiden, lieber mehrmals dünn aufsprühen und dem Produkt dazwischen Zeit zum Trocknen lassen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eVor dem ersten Sprühstoß entscheidet sich, ob überhaupt etwas hält. Das Verdeck muss sauber und vollständig durchgetrocknet sein, sonst sitzt die Imprägnierung auf dem Schmutz statt auf der Faser. Und Tensidreste sind noch tückischer als Schmutz: Der Hersteller schreibt ausdrücklich, dass Rückstände von Reinigungsmittel keine Imprägnierwirkung zulassen. Nach dem \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-reiniger-cabrioverdeckreiniger\"\u003eVerdeck-Reiniger\u003c\/a\u003e wird deshalb so lange nachgespült, bis das ablaufende Wasser klar bleibt und sich nirgends mehr weiße Bläschen bilden. Danach bekommt der Stoff Zeit, wirklich bis in die Unterschicht durchzutrocknen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAbgedeckt wird alles, was kein Textil ist. Glas, Kunststoffscheiben und Lackflächen sollen nach Herstellervorgabe weder besprüht noch dem Sprühnebel ausgesetzt werden. Eine Bahn Malerkrepp entlang der Verdeckkante und ein altes Laken über der Heckscheibe reichen. Gearbeitet wird im Freien im Schatten, nicht auf einer erhitzten Fläche und nicht in der prallen Sonne.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie Reihenfolge auf der Fläche selbst ist unspektakulär und wichtig: Bahn für Bahn, überlappend, von einer Seite zur anderen durchziehen. Ein Verdeck ist eine geneigte Fläche, und ein Sprühstrahl, der zu lange auf einer Stelle steht, sammelt sich dort zu einem Rinnsal. Gleichmäßig heißt hier: gleich schnell, konstante 20 cm Abstand, kein Verweilen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWeich-PVC ist die Grenze dieser Imprägnierung\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFür Verdecke aus Weich-PVC, Vinyl oder Kunstleder ist dieses Produkt laut Hersteller nicht geeignet, und dort gehört stattdessen der Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger hin. Das ist keine Geschmacksfrage, sondern eine Materialfrage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWeich-PVC hat keine Fasern, die sich umhüllen ließen. Es ist eine geschlossene Schicht, die zu rund 40 Prozent aus Weichmachern besteht, und die halten den Kunststoff elastisch. Treten sie durch UV-Strahlung und Witterung aus, versprödet das Material und die eingelagerten Farbstoffe werden zerstört. Ein Vinylverdeck braucht deshalb Nachschub an Weichmachern, keinen Wasserabweiser. Genau das leistet der \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-glaenzend\"\u003eKunststoff-Tiefenpfleger\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDer Test dafür ist haptisch und dauert fünf Sekunden. Greift sich das Verdeck wie Stoff, mit sichtbarer Webstruktur und rauer, weicher Oberfläche, ist es Textil und dieses Spray ist zuständig. Fühlt es sich an wie eine glatte, geschlossene Folie, hast du Weich-PVC unter der Hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie zweite Grenze betrifft die Farbe. Der integrierte UV-Schutz verhindert bei regelmäßiger Anwendung das Ausbleichen des Verdeckstoffes, er macht das Ausgeblichene aber nicht rückgängig. Was auf der Sonnenseite über fünf Sommer an Pigment verloren ging, bleibt verloren. Das Spray sichert den Zustand von heute, es kauft keinen von gestern zurück.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUnd eine Einordnung, die zur Rezeptur gehört: Öl abzuweisen ohne Fluorchemie ist der schwierigere Teil dieser Aufgabe, denn Fluorverbindungen waren jahrzehntelang genau dafür der einfache Weg. Dass die heutige Formulierung laut Dr. Wack ohne PFAS auskommt und im Labortest trotzdem bei der Ölabweisung vorn lag, ist die Arbeit, die in Baar-Ebenhausen dahintersteckt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eEin fabrikneues Verdeck zeigt sein Beading noch von allein\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eModerne Verdeckstoffe kommen ab Werk imprägniert, und solange Regentropfen darauf noch als Perlen stehen bleiben, brauchst du diese Dose schlicht noch nicht.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGebraucht wird sie da, wo Witterung dauerhaft auf den Stoff drückt: beim Cabrio, das draußen oder unter Bäumen steht, beim Ganzjahresfahrzeug, beim Wagen ohne Garage über den Winter. Verdeckstoffe wie das dreilagige Sonnenland-Material mit Dralon-Oberstoff, das BMW, Mercedes und Porsche serienmäßig verbauen, halten viele Jahre wie neu. Diese Jahre bekommst du aber nur mit Pflege.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWer sein Cabrio regelmäßig durch die Waschanlage fährt, sollte das nicht verwechseln: Ein Wachsprogramm dort ist ein Lackprodukt und arbeitet auf einer glatten, geschlossenen Oberfläche. Ein Textilverdeck ist das Gegenteil davon, und es bleibt nach der Wäsche genauso ungeschützt, wie es hineingefahren ist.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAus 400 ml wird mehr als ein Verdeck. Weil dieselbe Dose auch für Markisen, Zelte und textile Kleidung freigegeben ist, landet der Rest nicht im Regal, sondern auf der Terrassenmarkise. Wer die passenden Produkte für den kompletten Ablauf sucht, findet Reiniger und Imprägnierer nebeneinander in der \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-cabrio-verdeck\"\u003eCabrio-Verdeckpflege\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBleibt die Frage, wann nachgelegt wird, und die beantwortet das Verdeck selbst. Zwischen hält und hält nicht mehr liegt eine Zwischenstufe, und die ist dein eigentlicher Termin. Frisch imprägniert stehen die Tropfen als runde Perlen auf dem Stoff, das ist Beading.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLässt die Wirkung nach, fallen die Perlen flach und laufen als zusammenhängender Film ab. Sheeting nennt die Szene das, und auf einem Verdeck ist es die gelbe Karte. Erst danach kommt der dunkle, matte Fleck, der stehen bleibt, und der bedeutet: Das Wasser sitzt in der Faser.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDer Unterschied zwischen den beiden Zeitpunkten ist ein ganzer Arbeitsschritt. Wer beim Sheeting nachlegt, sprüht auf ein sauberes, trockenes Verdeck und ist in einer halben Stunde fertig. Wer bis zum dunklen Fleck wartet, muss vorher wieder reinigen und bringt damit genau die Mechanik auf das Gewebe, die die Imprägnierung ihm eigentlich ersparen sollte.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"400 ml","offer_id":54707182043471,"sku":"D1-DRW-2525","price":16.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-impraegnierer-textilimpraegnierung.png?v=1787867160"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-reiniger-cabrioverdeckreiniger","title":"A1 Cabrio \"Verdeck-Reiniger\" Soft top cleaner","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eDr. Wack A1 Cabrio \"Verdeck-Reiniger\" holt den Grünbelag aus dem Softtop\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWas ist der Dr. Wack A1 Cabrio \"Verdeck-Reiniger\"? Ein Reinigungsschaum aus der 400 ml Dose für alle Cabrio-Verdecke, vom Baumwoll-Mischgewebe bis zum Vinyl, punktuell auf den Fleck oder vollflächig einsetzbar. Er ist keine Imprägnierung und kein pigmentierter Farbauffrischer: Wasserabweisung und ausgeblichene Farbe bringt er nicht zurück.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack A1 Cabrio \"Verdeck-Reiniger\"\u003c\/strong\u003e ist ein Cabrioverdeckreiniger von Dr. Wack, der als standfester Kraftschaum arbeitet. Der Schaum bleibt auf der geneigten Verdeckfläche liegen, löst Straßenfilm, Grünbelag und einzelne Flecken aus der Oberschicht und bindet sie in sich, bis du Schaum und Schmutz zusammen abspülst. Freigegeben ist er vom Hersteller für alle Verdeckarten: Stoff, Acryl, Dralon, Kunststoff und Leder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie Arbeit macht hier die Form, nicht allein die Chemie. Ein flüssiger Reiniger läuft auf einem Verdeck in Sekunden nach unten und nimmt den gelösten Schmutz mit in die Kapillaren des Gewebes. Schaum hat eine Fließgrenze, er bleibt stehen, bis Kraft auf ihn wirkt. Heißt für dich: Der Schmutz wandert nach oben in den Schaum und verlässt das Verdeck mit dem Spülwasser, statt eine Etage tiefer einzuziehen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWarum ein Verdeck anders schmutzig wird als ein Lack, steht im Produktinformationsblatt von Dr. Wack. Die meisten Verdecke sind dreilagig gebaut: Baumwoll-Unterstoff als Innenhimmel, eine Gummi-Zwischenschicht, darüber eine Außenschicht aus Kunststoff, Acryl, Polyacrylnitril oder Baumwoll-Mischgewebe. Diese Außenschicht ist rau und weich. Schmutz liegt dort nicht obenauf, er verhakt sich.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUnd sie ist empfindlich. Dr. Wack schreibt den Softtops ausdrücklich eine geringe Scheuerfestigkeit zu: Mechanik greift Oberflächenstruktur und Farbtiefe an, bevor sie den Schmutz erwischt. Genau deshalb schlägt ein Reiniger, der 5 Minuten stehen bleibt, das beherzte Schrubben. Die Zeit macht die Arbeit, nicht der Druck.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEinwirkzeit auf der Schräge statt Ablaufspur.\u003c\/strong\u003e Ein Verdeck ist eine geneigte Fläche, auf der jedes flüssige Mittel wegläuft, bevor es wirkt. Der Kraftschaum bleibt liegen, wo du ihn hinsetzt, und darf bei hartnäckigen Verschmutzungen die vollen 5 Minuten arbeiten. Das ist der Unterschied zwischen einmal einweichen und dreimal nachsprühen.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e8 bis 12 komplette Verdecke aus 400 ml.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack beziffert die Ergiebigkeit bei vollflächiger Beschäumung auf 8 bis 12 Anwendungen und stellt ihr 2 bis 6 Anwendungen mit herkömmlichen Mitteln gegenüber. Wer nur einzelne Flecken behandelt, kommt deutlich weiter, weil sich der Schaum punktgenau setzen lässt und daneben nichts verloren geht.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEin Reiniger für fünf Verdeckmaterialien.\u003c\/strong\u003e Kunststoff, Stoff, Acryl, Dralon und Leder stehen im Anwendungsgebiet des Herstellers. Im Zwei-Cabrio-Haushalt brauchst du also keine zweite Dose, wenn ein Stoffverdeck neben einem Vinylverdeck steht. Die originale Imprägnierung greift der Schaum laut Dr. Wack nicht an.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePraxistipp von Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Wir sehen häufig, dass die Dose auf ein staubtrockenes Verdeck gehalten wird, weil das schneller geht. Es geht nicht schneller, es kostet die Wirkung: Trockenes Gewebe saugt den Schaum in Sekunden ein, unten arbeitet er nicht mehr. 2 Minuten mit dem Schlauch, bis der Stoff gleichmäßig dunkel ist, dann erst die Dose. Und fang an den Nähten und auf der Schattenseite an. Dort steht das Wasser am längsten, dort sitzt der Grünbelag zuerst.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003e5 Minuten steht der Kraftschaum auf der Schräge\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eVerdeck anfeuchten, groben Schmutz abspülen, Dose schütteln, den Schaum auf die verschmutzten Stellen sprühen und bei hartnäckigen Verschmutzungen 5 Minuten stehen lassen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDas Anfeuchten ist kein Nebensatz in der Anleitung. Ein trockenes Gewebe zieht den Schaum sofort in die Kapillaren, und dort arbeitet er nicht, er verschwindet. Ein gleichmäßig durchnässtes Verdeck ist gesättigt: Unter dem Schaum entsteht kein Sog mehr, er bleibt oben, wo der Schmutz sitzt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGearbeitet wird mit einem weichen, feuchten Schwamm, ohne Druck, in Bahnen. Den Schwamm wäschst du zwischendurch aus, sonst behält er den herausgelösten Sand und wird auf einem Gewebe mit geringer Scheuerfestigkeit zum Schleifklotz. Der Verdeck-Reiniger nimmt dir das Lösen ab, das Werkzeug soll nur noch abnehmen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFür einen einzelnen Fleck gilt dieselbe Regel in klein. Wer punktuell auf trockenes Gewebe sprüht, bekommt am Ende zwei Probleme: den Fleck und einen Wasserrand darum herum, weil der aufgeschwemmte Schmutz an der Trocknungsgrenze liegen bleibt. Nässe deshalb die ganze Bahn, in der der Fleck sitzt, und arbeite über die Naht hinaus. Der Schaum darf punktgenau sitzen, die Feuchtigkeit muss großflächig sein.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eZum Schluss mit klarem Wasser spülen, bis keine Schaumbildung mehr zu erkennen ist. Dr. Wack nennt genau dieses Kriterium in den eigenen Pflegetipps, und es hat einen physikalischen Grund: Tenside sind Netzmittel. Was von ihnen im Gewebe bleibt, senkt die Oberflächenspannung des Wassers und zieht Feuchtigkeit an, statt sie abzuweisen. Merkst du daran: Ein schlecht gespültes Verdeck trocknet langsamer als vorher.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-reiniger-cabrioverdeckreiniger_anwendung.png?v=1787867798\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Dr. Wack A1 Cabrio Verdeck-Reiniger wird als Schaumband auf das angefeuchtete Stoffverdeck gesprüht\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDer Aufheller frischt die Farbe auf, zurück färbt er nicht\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDer farbauffrischende Effekt ist echt und er hat eine klare Grenze: Er entsteht optisch, durch einen Aufheller und durch den entfernten Grauschleier, nicht durch Pigment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn der Rezeptur sitzt ein optischer Aufheller auf Stilben-Basis, derselbe Stofftyp, der weiße Wäsche weißer aussehen lässt. Er lagert sich auf der Faser an, nimmt unsichtbares UV-Licht auf und gibt es als sichtbares Blau zurück. Praktisch: Ein müde gewordenes Schwarz wirkt danach wieder satt, weil der Gelbstich neutralisiert ist.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWas er nicht kann, ist verlorenes Pigment ersetzen. Ein Verdeck, das nach mehreren Sommern auf der Sonnenseite ausgeblichen ist, wird sauber und wieder gleichmäßig, aber nicht wieder schwarz. Dafür braucht es ein pigmentiertes Verdeck-Färbeprodukt, und das ist ein anderer Arbeitsschritt mit anderem Risiko.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie zweite Grenze ist mechanisch und endgültig. Wo eine harte Bürste oder ein zu naher Hochdruckstrahl die Oberschicht aufgeraut oder eine Naht angegriffen hat, holt kein Reiniger die Struktur zurück. Aufgestellte Fasern streuen das Licht, die Stelle bleibt matt und grau und nimmt von da an schneller wieder Schmutz auf. Dr. Wack rät in den eigenen Pflegetipps ausdrücklich von Hochdruckreiniger, Waschanlage und harten Bürsten ab.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie dritte Grenze ist eher eine Einordnung. Einen unabhängigen Fachtest zu diesem Reiniger gibt es nicht: Prüfinstitute und Fachzeitschriften haben für Cabrioverdecke bisher die Imprägnierer geprüft, nicht die Reiniger. Belegt ist hier also das, was Dr. Wack im Produktinformationsblatt angibt, nachprüfbar beim Hersteller in Baar-Ebenhausen. Das sagen wir lieber dazu, als einen Testsieg zu suggerieren, den es für dieses Produkt nicht gibt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eReinigen allein hält das Verdeck sauber, nicht trocken\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEin frisch gereinigtes Verdeck ist offen, aufnahmefähig und ungeschützt, und genau in diesem Zustand entscheidet der nächste Schritt, wie lange es sauber bleibt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGrünbelag auf einem Verdeck ist kein Schmutz, der sich absetzt, sondern etwas, das wächst. Algen und Moos brauchen dafür nur eines: Zeit mit Feuchtigkeit. Ein Verdeck, das sich bei jedem Regen vollsaugt und danach zwei Tage zum Durchtrocknen braucht, liefert diese Zeit jede Woche neu. Der Verdeck-Reiniger holt den grünen Film heraus. Die Trockenzeit verkürzt er nicht.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDeshalb steht am Ende der Anwendungsanleitung von Dr. Wack kein Punkt, sondern eine Weiche. Wenn dein Verdeck aus Stoff ist, folgt nach dem Trocknen der \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-impraegnierer-textilimpraegnierung\"\u003eCabrio-Verdeck-Imprägnierer\u003c\/a\u003e, der das Vollsaugen verhindert und damit die Trockenzeit senkt. Wenn es aus Kunststoff oder Vinyl ist, kommt der \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-glaenzend\"\u003eKunststoff-Tiefenpfleger\u003c\/a\u003e, denn Weich-PVC braucht keine Wasserabweisung, sondern die Weichmacher, die es über die Jahre verliert.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWer den zweiten Schritt weglässt, verliert nicht nur den Schutz, er verliert auch die Reinigungsarbeit schneller wieder. Ein unimprägniertes Verdeck saugt den nächsten Regen auf, bleibt länger dunkel und feucht und nimmt in dieser Zeit Staub, Blütenstaub und Sporen an, die im nassen Gewebe hängen bleiben. Der nächste Grünbelag beginnt an dem Tag, an dem du fertig bist.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFür wen sich die Dose lohnt: für alle, die ihr Cabrio draußen oder unter Bäumen stehen haben, für Zweitwagen mit Stoffverdeck, die im Winter lange stehen, und für jeden, der einzelne Flecken behandeln will statt gleich das ganze Verdeck einzuschäumen. Wer sein Cabrio in der Garage hält und das Verdeck einmal im Jahr abwischt, kommt mit einem Allrounder aus der \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/textil-und-polster\"\u003eTextil- und Polsterpflege\u003c\/a\u003e genauso weit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDer Punkt, den kein Hersteller auf die Dose schreibt: Die Dose ist auch dein Messgerät. Setz vor dem Vorwässern einen walnussgroßen Tupfer Schaum auf eine unauffällige Stelle des noch trockenen Verdecks. Bleibt er als weiße Kuppe stehen, lebt die Imprägnierung noch. Sackt er innerhalb weniger Sekunden zu einem dunklen Fleck zusammen, ist sie weg, und der zweite Schritt ist an diesem Tag keine Kür mehr. Drei Sekunden Aufwand, und du weißt vor der Arbeit, was danach nötig ist.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"400 ml","offer_id":54707182240079,"sku":"D1-DRW-2520","price":16.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-cabrio-verdeck-reiniger-cabrioverdeckreiniger.png?v=1787867170"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-das-tuch-premium-mikrofaser-mikrofasertuch","title":"A1 \"DAS TUCH\" Premium Microfibre Cloth","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"DAS TUCH\" lifts wax off without dragging holograms in\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 \"DAS TUCH\" Premium Microfibre? A microfibre cloth made from 85 per cent polyester and 15 per cent polyamide, high pile on both sides, ultrasonically cut instead of overlocked. Built for taking polish, wax and detailer off paint. Not a drying towel, not a glass cloth, no substitute for a polish.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"DAS TUCH\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a microfibre cloth from Dr. Wack in a 40 by 40 centimetre format that takes on the last job on the paint: lifting off wax, polish or detailer residue without laying new swirls in. The application engineering team in Baar-Ebenhausen says it picked this one out of more than 50 alternatives before it went on sale under the A1 label.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMicrofibre means this: a continuous filament of polyester and polyamide is split lengthways until one filament becomes dozens of wedge-shaped single fibres. Those split edges work like thousands of tiny shovels that carry the wax residue up into the pile instead of pushing it across the clear coat. You notice it like this: the paint gets cleaner on the second pass instead of smearier.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e85 to 15 is no cost-cutting exercise here, it is a decision. Polyamide is the soft, absorbent share and costs more to make than polyester, which is why plenty of premium cloths sit at 80 to 20 or 70 to 30. This cloth gets its softness from the second lever instead, from pile length and yarn density. Day-to-day that means you feel the difference in the height of the fibre, not on the spec sheet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e1.6 metres of edge without a single thread.\u003c\/strong\u003e Overlocked cloths carry a seam of polyester yarn all the way round; at 40 by 40 centimetres that is 1.6 metres of hard edge running along with every pass. On the A1 \"DAS TUCH\" a high-frequency blade cuts the fabric and seals the cut edge in the same moment. On black piano paint that one millimetre decides whether a fine line shows up under low light later on.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBoth sides carry the same high pile.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack lists the cloth at 55 grams net weight; across 40 by 40 centimetres that works out at around 340 g\/m², spread evenly over two identical sides. Most polishing cloths have a fluffy side and a smooth side instead. We get a lot of messages from beginners who have picked up hologramming because they switched to the hard side in half-shade without noticing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e60 degrees, no softener, around 300 cycles.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack quotes about 300 wash cycles and explicitly allows the tumble dryer up to 60 degrees. What ends that number is not the drum, it is a single shot of fabric softener: its cationic surfactants lay down as a film over the fibre edges and block the channels between them. In practice that means the cloth pushes water along in front of it afterwards instead of taking it up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e From what we see day-to-day, the most expensive mistake happens after the job and not during it. Throw the cloth into the laundry basket with wax and polish residue in it and leave it until the next wash day, and those residues harden off in the pile. The time after that, hard crumbs sit between fibre and clear coat, and almost everyone puts the fine scratches down to the wax. Rinse the cloth out warm straight after buffing, until no more foam comes, and wash it within 24 hours.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuffing off is lifting off. You do not polish with it.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe A1 \"DAS TUCH\" takes nothing off the paint. It lifts off what the applicator left behind and pulls the panel up to a high gloss on the second pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack describes the routine in four moves: fold the cloth twice, lay it down flat, wipe off the polish or wax residue, then turn it or shake it out and go for the high gloss with a clean side. Laying it down flat is the part most people skip. Work with your fingertips and the whole pressure of your hand lands on a few square centimetres, and you press the residue you just lifted straight back into the paint right there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cloth works dry. Damp in the pile thins exactly the residue you are trying to lift and spreads it over the panel as a haze. If you rinse it out along the way, the cloth has to dry all the way through before it goes near the paint again. From what we see day-to-day, that is why two cloths per car run better than one you wring out halfway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne panel, one pass. Each side of the cloth gets used once and then you move on, rather than rubbing back and forth under pressure. On dark metallic paint you see the difference under low light straight away, on silver you only notice it in the sun. As working partners Dr. Wack names four of its own products in the product information sheet, among them the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-high-end-spray-wax-spruehwachs\"\u003espray wax\u003c\/a\u003e from the HIGH-END range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe name misleads here, because buffing off is not polishing. Cut and finish come from the polish with a pad or a machine, the cloth only handles the last step. A microfibre cloth removes no swirls. At most it makes them less obvious for a few weeks, for as long as there is wax standing in the scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-das-tuch-premium-mikrofaser-mikrofasertuch_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867803\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 DAS TUCH laid down flat while buffing off a dark painted panel\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe high pile drags streaks across glass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLong pile and glass do not go together. It puts too little fibre on the pane at any one time and spreads the film instead of taking it off in one pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat is what the second cloth in the same line is for. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-mikrofasertuch-mikrofasertuch\"\u003einterior and glass cloth\u003c\/a\u003e is flat woven rather than high pile, it mixes 80 to 20 instead of 85 to 15, and its edges are overlocked rather than cut. For the dash, screens and glass that is the better build, because short fibres give you more control and the film does not get smeared.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you are taking polish, wax or a detailer off paint, you reach for the high-pile cloth. If you are doing glass, screens or plastic inside the car, you reach for the flat one. The overlocked seam is completely harmless on glass, because no edge runs over soft clear coat there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat is behind that is geometry, not a question of quality. At the same hand pressure a high pile puts less fibre on the paint at once and holds the lifted residue at a distance, because there is air standing between fibre tip and the base of the weave. Short pile does the opposite: it brings more contact points onto the surface and gives you control that way. On glass that is the advantage, on fresh wax it is the drawback.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrying the car is beyond it too. 55 grams of microfibre take up roughly seven to ten times their own weight, so about half a litre of water, and a mid-size saloon carries several litres after the wash. That is what drying towels at 900 to 1,500 g\/m² are for. The hardest limit comes right at the start: once a cloth has been out on pre-wash, wheels or door shuts, there is grit in the pile. For paint it is finished after that, no matter how often you wash it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne cloth per job beats ten for everything\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis cloth earns its place if you take wax, polish or detailer off by hand and the paint is dark enough that every mark shows up under low light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo of them are enough for one car: one for the lift-off, one for the high-gloss pass. If you are after a single cloth for everything instead, you are better off with the flat all-rounder. The \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-a1-mikrofasertuch\"\u003emicrofibre cloths in the line\u003c\/a\u003e split the work between them on purpose rather than both doing everything half well, and that is exactly why there are two of them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA cloth that has to stand in for everything ends up good for nothing, because every job leaves a different kind of contamination in the pile. Plastic dressing brings silicone in, interior cleaner brings surfactants, pre-wash brings grit. That is why every cloth here gets one fixed job and is washed separately by job. It costs one more wash load and saves the machine polish that would otherwise be due after two seasons.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 300 wash cycles are a figure about the fibre, not about your cloth. At one wash a month that would work out at 25 years, and no polishing cloth lasts that long. What actually finishes it you spot from three signs: it barely takes anything up any more, it feels hard and brittle after drying, and the cut edge starts to fray. In regular use one to two years is realistic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe strongest lever is in the product information sheet and still almost nobody follows it: shake the cloth out hard several times after the dryer. A pile that comes out of the drum lies flat, and flat pile puts more fibre on the paint in one go, with less air as a buffer in between. Two seconds of shaking lifts the fibres again. Skip the move once and do it once, and you notice the difference on the very first pass across the bonnet.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"Gray \/ 40x40cm \/ 1 piece","offer_id":54731700470095,"sku":"D1-DRW-8009","price":10.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-das-tuch-premium-mikrofaser-mikrofasertuch.png?v=1787867180"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-der-politur-schwamm-politur","title":"A1 \"DER POLITUR SCHWAMM\" Polishing sponge","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"DER POLITUR SCHWAMM\" works polish in instead of just spreading it\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"DER POLITUR SCHWAMM\"? A dense hand polishing sponge from Dr. Wack that transfers the pressure of your hand evenly to the paint — which is what lets the abrasives in the A1 polishes do their job in the first place. Not for matte paint, not for matte wraps and not as a pad for a machine polisher.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"DER POLITUR SCHWAMM\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a hand polishing sponge from Dr. Wack for the three A1 all-over polishes. It measures 150 by 80 millimetres, is 35 millimetres thick and weighs 14.1 grams net. What it's supposed to do is summed up in one line of the product benefits that no retailer quotes: it enables constant pressure during polishing. Not soaking up, not spreading. Holding pressure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow much of that reaches the clear coat isn't down to your arm alone. There's exactly one part between your palm and the paint, and it can either pass your force on or use it up in itself. A foam that keeps giving way under load pours every extra kilo into its own deformation. None of it reaches the panel: you rub away, and the dullness is still there afterwards, just as before.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePressure, three times on one page of data sheet.\u003c\/strong\u003e The word appears twice in the instructions and a third time in the product benefits: polish in with plenty of pressure, the more pressure the better the result, constant pressure during polishing. Manufacturers usually urge their customers to go easy. For you, that means you can really lean into this block.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e28 percent more foam in the same block.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polishing and wax sponges are identical except on the scales, both 150 x 80 x 35 millimetres. This one packs 14.1 instead of 11 grams into the same 420 cubic centimetres — about 34 instead of 26 kilograms per cubic metre. You'll feel it: the block springs back under your hand without bottoming out.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e120 square centimetres of face, 35 millimetres of edge.\u003c\/strong\u003e The big side covers 150 by 80 millimetres in one go; according to the manufacturer, the narrow edge gets into door-handle recesses and other hard-to-reach spots. The sponge is approved for metallic, solid, nano and scratch-resistant paints as well as gloss wraps, from lightly to heavily weathered.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e What we see day-to-day, the most common mistake is running a whole side of the car on the same face of the block. After the first panel the working face is grey. That's not dirt — it's your removed clear coat plus spent abrasive. On the next door you're just pushing that sludge around, and the fresh dose never reaches the paint. The block has two big faces, so use one per panel. Only wash it out at the end, because wet foam thins out the next dose.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eA flat hand brings the cut, fingertips just leave tracks\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe dose goes on the dry foam and your whole palm on the block — not just three fingertips on one corner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe big side gives you 120 square centimetres of contact. If you steer the block between thumb and fingertips, you load a handful of that and let the rest float over the paint. You only see it afterwards: a narrow, properly worked strip under your fingers, and around it an area that touched the sponge but never carried any load.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the scene, the removing part of a polish is called cut — the part that takes material away instead of filling. Cut only happens where there's load. In practice: your contact area decides how big the polished zone really ends up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe order before that is non-negotiable. Washed, dried, cooled down, in the shade. If there's still grit on the paint — loose chippings and road film — it travels along under the foam and you polish it in. Only then does a dose of one of the three \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-a1-politur\"\u003eA1 polishes\u003c\/a\u003e go straight onto the sponge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWork in small circles, panel by panel, in a cross-hatch. Cross-hatch means: horizontal passes over the section first, then vertical ones over them, so no single direction leaves a pattern. If the foam runs dry, the grains lose their lubricating film and polishing turns into friction. If the application gets streaky, the block needs a fresh dose, not more muscle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou don't have to guess whether your pressure was even. The drying polish film shows you: where contact was high, it's thin and almost worked away; where the block just rode along, it stays white and thick. A white rim around a clear centre means only the heel of your hand was down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-der-politur-schwamm-politur_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867807\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Polish being squeezed from the A1 Polish and Wax bottle onto the dry polishing sponge\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eIn the soft wax sponge, the pressure soaks away and never reaches the paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFrom the outside, the two A1 sponges are the same block: same 150 by 80 by 35 millimetres, same folding box, same colour. The difference shows up on the scales.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's in the data sheets too — nobody just reads them side by side. For the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-der-wax-schwamm-wachs\"\u003ewax sponge\u003c\/a\u003e, the instruction is to apply evenly and thinly, and the word pressure doesn't appear there once. On this sheet it's there three times. Two tools in one housing, with opposite jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe measurable quantity behind it is called compression hardness, tested to DIN EN ISO 3386 as the pressure it takes to squash a foam by 40 percent of its height. In plain terms: how hard the block pushes back against being flattened. Day to day: the higher the value, the less of your force gets stuck in the foam.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompression hardness is stated separately from density, which is why foam types are called RG 25\/44 and not just RG 25. Dr. Wack publishes neither figure. The catalogue lists the net weight, and that's where the 28 percent difference comes from.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat happens on the paint if you use the soft block anyway: open-cell soft foam buckles at its cell walls under load and then gives way over a long travel, barely building any further resistance. You press harder, the block gets flatter, little changes on the panel. Then it bottoms out under your fingertips, and right there you're suddenly removing too much.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe usual misdiagnosis after that is that the polish is too weak. That gives you a useful rule: if a second pass with the same sponge doesn't help, check the foam first. If this block at full pressure doesn't get it either, the defect sits deeper than a hand polish can reach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFour limits remain. Dr. Wack rules out matte paint and matte wraps. The block doesn't belong on a machine polisher — it has no hook-and-loop backing or backing plate. For leather, plastic and thin dressings, the range's microfibre applicator is the one built for the job, and it glides on matte surfaces too. And A1 \"DER POLITUR SCHWAMM\" only changes how much of a polish gets through, not what it can do.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-der-politur-schwamm-politur_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867812\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Flat hand pressing A1 DER POLITUR SCHWAMM onto black paint at the edge of the window\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDr. Wack doesn't put an applicator in with its all-over polishes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpeed Polish, Polish \u0026amp; Wax and ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine come in the box without a sponge. Only the small Kratzer Polish includes a microfibre cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's not cost-cutting, it's separating consumable from tool. The bottle runs empty, the foam block doesn't. A freebie would also be the same for all three polishes, and that's exactly what this block isn't: according to the data sheet, the application engineers picked it from a large number of alternatives and optimised it for these polishes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA1 \"DER POLITUR SCHWAMM\" is meant for the by-hand crowd: two to three polishing sessions a year, no machine polisher at home, but an A1 bottle on the shelf. If you work by machine, you need hook-and-loop pads in graded hardnesses. If you work by hand, you need exactly one block, because the hardness choice has been made for you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe first panel takes longer than you think. Constant pressure is a movement your hand has to learn, and the first passes feel a bit clumsy. That's normal and doesn't mean you're not pressing hard enough. If you want to run the strongest hand polish in the range, you'll find it in \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-ultima-show-und-shine-polish-politur\"\u003eULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish\u003c\/a\u003e, which calls for whole panels in one go and so plays to the block's size.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's rare for a manufacturer to explicitly tell you to use more force. Usually it's a call for caution, because caution breaks fewer things. In Baar-Ebenhausen the line is in the data sheet anyway, and it's only there because this foam spreads the pressure across the surface instead of stabbing it into the clear coat at single points.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd the point no label mentions: the sponge is the only part of the polishing kit with no wear indicator. You see the bottle empty, the cloth go grey, but the block looks the same on its twentieth use as on its first. The test takes two seconds: squeeze it in your fist, let go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf it doesn't spring straight back into shape, it isn't transferring pressure anymore either. From then on your hand is polishing against the foam instead of with it, and every extra pass costs you time and clear coat without the panel getting any better.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"Orange \/ 15x8cm \/ 1 Stück","offer_id":58086544671055,"sku":"D1-DRW-8002","price":7.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-der-politur-schwamm-politur.png?v=1787867191"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-der-wax-schwamm-wachs","title":"A1 \"DER WAX SCHWAMM\" Applicator sponge","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"DER WAX SCHWAMM\" lays spray wax down thin and without high spots\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 \"DER WAX SCHWAMM\"? A soft applicator sponge made of open-cell polyurethane foam that transfers spray wax as a thin, even film onto clear coat and gloss wrap. Not meant for matte paint and matte wraps, not for polishes and not as a machine pad.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack A1 \"DER WAX SCHWAMM\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a soft-foam applicator sponge that Dr. Wack's application team in Baar-Ebenhausen picked and optimised for the A1 \"Speed Wax Plus 3\". The block measures 150 x 80 x 35 millimetres and weighs 11 grams net. It takes up a dose of wax, holds it in its cell structure and releases it again under light hand pressure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhy there's a dedicated product for this, Dr. Wack says unusually openly in the product information sheet: conventional sponges don't tap the full potential of the wax. Behind that is foam science. Depending on the grade, open-cell flexible polyurethane foams run with cell sizes from 10 to 90 pores per inch and densities between 14 and 75 kilograms per cubic metre. Within that range it's decided whether a sponge soaks a product up or gives it back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn applicator is a buffer, not a bucket. It works like an ink pad: the ink sits in the fabric, not in a chamber, and when you press down only the amount the contact pressure releases moves outward. If the foam soaks up too deeply, the dose vanishes into the block and you top up twice without any more reaching the paint. If it takes up too little, you're pushing a bead of wax ahead of you instead of spreading it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEleven grams of foam in 420 cubic centimetres.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dimensions and net weight give a density of about 26 kilograms per cubic metre, the bottom quarter of the range flexible PU foam covers at all. The block gives under your palm instead of passing pressure on to the paint. In day-to-day terms: you can't press hard enough to turn it into polishing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThirty-five millimetres of thickness means cushioning and reserve.\u003c\/strong\u003e Only the bottom layer of foam works on the paint; above it sits the reservoir. That's why the product information sheet asks you to keep the sponge soaked throughout and to top it up. You notice it because the film stays even, even though your hand never presses evenly as you circle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCleared for gloss, off limits for matte.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack approves the sponge for metallic, solid, nano and more scratch-resistant paints as well as gloss wraps. Two surfaces are explicitly excluded: matte paint and matte wrap. On a matte-wrapped bonnet, neither the sponge nor the spray wax has any business.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e What we see a lot is the mistake happening before the first circle. Dr. Wack prescribes two things that belong together: wash it out after the job, dose onto a dry sponge next time. In between sits a drying time everyone underestimates. Leftover water occupies the cells that are meant to take up the wax and thins the emulsion. You only see it when you buff off, as a blotchy film. Our kitchen-roll test: squeeze it hard onto a paper towel. If it leaves a dark print, keep waiting, about 24 hours at room air.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe wax goes on the dry sponge, not on the paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou dose onto the foam: one shot of A1 \"Speed Wax Plus 3\" onto the dry sponge, then thin and even onto the clean, dry paint in small circular movements.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSpray the wax onto the panel instead and spread it there, and you lose control of the amount. On the paint the dose sits in one spot and far too heavy, the sponge picks some of it back up on first contact and pushes the rest ahead of it. What you end up with is a film that's thick where you sprayed and too thin at the edges.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe rule of thumb for film thickness is simple: you still have to see the paint colour through the fresh wax film. If the panel looks milky white, there's too much on it, and too much wax doesn't add durability. It just turns buffing off into hard work and leaves high spots on edges and in swage lines. If the film goes streaky as you circle, the sponge is empty, the panel isn't finished.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe shape takes care of the edges. At 35 millimetres thick, the A1 \"DER WAX SCHWAMM\" sits flat in your palm; at 150 millimetres long you cover half a door in a few passes, and the corners reach into door handle recesses, mirror bases and the transition between wing and sill. That's exactly where the spots appear that get missed when buffing off and later cure as a white edge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWork in the shade at 15 to 25 °C, then the volatile part of the emulsion doesn't flash off faster than you can spread it. After applying, let the film flash off until it hazes over, then take it off with a clean microfibre towel. Which emulsion the sponge carries is decided by the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-speed-wax-plus-3-spruehwachs\"\u003espray wax\u003c\/a\u003e it was built for, which Dr. Wack rates at up to 6 months of protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-der-wax-schwamm-wachs_anwendung_2.png?v=1787867820\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 DER WAX SCHWAMM being dosed straight from the Speed Wax Plus 3 bottle\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolish residue in the wax sponge sets holograms into the fresh protective film\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA sponge that has been used for polishing is ruined for wax. Polish abrasive and removed paint lodge permanently in the cell structure and come back onto the panel at the next application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack makes two sponges in the same size, and the difference isn't on the label. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-der-politur-schwamm-politur\"\u003epolishing sponge\u003c\/a\u003e also measures 150 x 80 x 35 millimetres, but weighs 14.1 instead of 11 grams. That's 28 per cent more mass in the same volume, working out at about 34 versus 26 kilograms per cubic metre. That very density difference transfers hand pressure instead of swallowing it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe two product information sheets say the same thing in words. For the polishing sponge it says to polish in with plenty of pressure, and that more pressure brings a better result. For the wax sponge there's not a word about pressure, just thin and even. One carries abrasion into the clear coat, the other lays a protective film on top. If you want to work out swirls and dullness, take the polishing sponge. If you want to protect, take this one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhy the split is strict: soft foam gives back liquid, but not solids. Polish abrasives and paint residue stay stuck in the cell walls after washing out, and with polishing pads that's the well-known cause of holograms and fading cut. Once dried, the residue makes the foam hard. In the wax sponge it turns into grit that runs over a protective film you've only just built up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo more limits belong here. Matte paint and matte wraps are excluded because a gloss wax leaves greasy patches on a matte finish that won't wipe out. And very runny care products pass through the open cells faster than they cling to the cell walls. For the interior, leather and plastic, the A1 \"Applikations-Schwamm\" with its microfibre cover is the tool, not this block.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-der-wax-schwamm-wachs_anwendung.png?v=1787867816\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Applying wax with the A1 DER WAX SCHWAMM in small circles on black paint\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eIf you wax by hand, you're buying dosing, not foam\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe A1 \"DER WAX SCHWAMM\" pays off for anyone who seals their own paint two or three times a year and wants control over the amount of product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's the hand-application crowd: wash on Saturday, then a round of spray wax in about 45 minutes. If you work with a DA polisher and compound, you don't need the block, because machine pads are a different tool with their own backing plate and their own foam hardness. And if you only look after the interior, you'll reach for the microfibre applicator anyway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe often get questions from people who've waxed a black bonnet and then see streaks against the light. In almost every case the application was too heavy, not the wax too weak. An applicator that weighs 11 grams and doesn't transfer pressure takes that source of error off your hands. It simply can't put more product on the panel than its bottom layer is holding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe maths isn't on the sponge, it's on the wax. An applicator that soaks up the emulsion instead of releasing it costs you product every time, and the 500 ml bottle is the pricier half of the pair. If you work by hand, you'll find the matching \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-waschhandschuh\"\u003ewash mitts and sponges\u003c\/a\u003e as one family: mitt for the wash, polishing sponge for the cut, wax sponge for the protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe block isn't durable by accident. Open-cell soft foams come on two bases: ether types bring resilience, ester types stand up to soaps, oils and cleaning agents. Which base is used here, Dr. Wack doesn't say. Both are needed, because the foam has to bounce back from the compression of a whole lap around the car and mustn't go brittle from washing out. If an applicator still goes hard, there's almost always dried product in the cell walls, not a material fault.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe biggest lever is the order of your wax day. If you polish first and then wax, you need two sponges, not one for two jobs. One ends up loaded with grit, the other has to stay clean and dry. That's why we label the boxes as soon as we unpack them and stand the wax sponge on its edge to dry after washing it out, never flat in the closed box. That one small habit decides whether the block works on its tenth outing like it did on its first.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"Schwarz \/ 15x8cm \/ 1 Stück","offer_id":58086544834895,"sku":"D1-DRW-8003","price":6.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-der-wax-schwamm-wachs.png?v=1787867202"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-flugrost-entferner-gel-flugrostentferner","title":"A1 \"Flugrost-Entferner Gel\" Iron Remover","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"Flugrost-Entferner Gel\" pulls baked-in iron back out of the clear coat\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 \"Flugrost-Entferner Gel\"? An acid-free iron remover in gel form for paint, plastic and metal, with a reaction indicator that marks the contaminated spots in red-violet. Not for hot panels, full sun, steel that has rusted through, or bare aluminium without a test patch first.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Flugrost-Entferner Gel\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is an acid-free iron remover from Dr. Wack in Baar-Ebenhausen that dissolves iron particles out of paint, plastic and metal instead of scrubbing them off. A thioglycolate salt converts the iron oxide into a water-soluble compound that runs off with the rinse. That compound is a strong red-violet in its own right. So the colour on the panel is the reaction itself and not a dye that has been added.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe dust comes off the brake disc hot. Dr. Wack describes exactly that in the product information sheet: hot brake dust burns into the surface, and road salt and damp add rust on top. The particle then does not sit on the clear coat but in it, much the way welding sparks burn into a window pane. Shampoo runs straight over the top, because above the paint surface there is nothing left to grab.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLeave the iron sitting there and it keeps oxidising, pushing the orange speck up through the clear coat from below. Reach for a polish instead and you drag that hard grit across the panel and pick up swirls, the fine wash marks that stand out as circles under low light. That is why the running order in the scene is chemistry before mechanics: dissolve it first, touch it second.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe reaction indicator is a measuring instrument.\u003c\/strong\u003e The gel leaves the nozzle a pale violet and runs off a strong red-violet wherever it has bound iron. After the five minutes of dwell time you see not only whether you covered the whole panel, but also which areas were genuinely contaminated. That diagnosis costs you no extra step.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e140 mPas keep the film on a vertical door.\u003c\/strong\u003e The safety data sheet puts the dynamic viscosity at 140 mPas at 20 °C, thick enough that what you lay down stays put instead of running onto the sill within seconds. Day-to-day that means the five minutes of dwell time count on the flank exactly as they do on the bonnet.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH 7.4 instead of acid.\u003c\/strong\u003e The safety data sheet states pH 7.4 at 20 °C, essentially the value of tap water. On clear coat, chrome and anodised aluminium, none of what an acidic cleaner can do there happens. Bare, untreated aluminium stays the exception, and for that Dr. Wack itself calls for a test patch.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We get a steady stream of messages from people whose gel “did nothing”, and the day was almost always the first sunny Saturday of spring. On a hot panel the film skins over before the reaction is through. The counter-test takes two seconds: lay your palm flat on the panel. If you cannot hold it there for five seconds, the surface is too warm. Below 10 °C the opposite applies: at least ten minutes of dwell time instead of five.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe decon step comes after the wash, not before\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe gel belongs on a washed, cooled-down panel, because it only works where it actually reaches the iron.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack lays down a clear sequence for it: spray onto areas you have already cleaned, leave it about five minutes, wipe over with a wet sponge, rinse thoroughly with water and chamois off. With extreme contamination or temperatures below 10 °C it is at least ten minutes. The trigger head on the 500 ml bottle needs a few pumps before the gel comes through, and it switches between a fan and a jet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference between a gel and a spray shows up on the door. A thin iron remover flows almost like water and is sitting in a puddle on the sill within seconds, while the panel up top is already drying out again. At 140 mPas, what you lay down stays as a closed film instead, and the dwell time runs the same length everywhere. On the bonnet that makes no odds; on the flank, the arch and the tailgate it decides the result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe spots worth doing are the ones where the brake dust lands: wheel arches, lower door sections, sills, the rear bumper and the edges behind the wheels. On light paint you spot the orange specks with the naked eye, on dark blue or black they only show under low light. So the simpler rule applies when you lay it down: a hand's width too much beats one edge too few.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe wet sponge is not an extra, it is part of the instructions. It takes off the softened deposit while the gel is still wet. Run it without pressure and rinse it out between panels, so dissolved iron does not stay in the sponge and turn up again on the next section.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe rinse is what counts at the end. As long as red-violet streaks are running off, there is still iron on the move. Only once the water stays clear is the panel through. Chamois off afterwards, or the dissolved salts dry on as a tide mark. If individual specks sit deeper, give them their own second application, because doubling the dwell time does nothing once the film up top has dried on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-flugrost-entferner-gel-flugrostentferner_anwendung.png?v=1787867824\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Flugrost-Entferner Gel on a silver car door, violet streaks showing dissolved iron\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe gel removes fallout, it does not stop rust eating in\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat it dissolves is iron and only iron: the data sheet names fallout, early corrosion marks and industrial dust, and tar and tree sap are deliberately not on that list.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe gel is strong wherever iron has settled across a whole area. Light paint after winter counts, so do cars parked next to railway lines or a building site, along with chrome trim, plastic sills and arch liners. Because it works acid-free, you run the same bottle over paint, plastic and metal without swapping products halfway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack writes two limits into the product sheet itself. On bare, untreated aluminium you check compatibility on a hidden patch first, because polished raw alu has no top layer to catch a reaction. And in full sun or on heated surfaces you do not start at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe third limit runs between fallout and rust. Early corrosion marks come off with the gel, but steel that has rusted through is beyond any iron remover, and there only sanding and paint are left. Tar, bitumen and tree sap do not react chemically at all: the area stays pale although the mark is still there. That is useful information rather than a fault.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIts remit stops at the wheel. Baked-on brake dust needs longer standing time on the material and a formula built for brake cleaner, heat and powder coating, which is why there is a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-p21s-power-gel-felgenreiniger\"\u003ewheel cleaner from the P21S line\u003c\/a\u003e on the shelf for it. If it is paint, plastic or chrome that is affected, you stay with the A1 \"Flugrost-Entferner Gel\".\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePark next to a railway line and the fallout is delivered to your door\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe worst hit are cars near railway lines, industrial estates and building sites, plus any car after a winter of road salt and plenty of brake dust.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 500 ml bottle with the trigger head is ready to use, nothing gets diluted and nothing gets decanted. That suits one or two passes a year on a car, typically in spring before polishing or sealing. If you decontaminate whole cars every week, a concentrate from our \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/flugrostentferner\"\u003eiron remover\u003c\/a\u003e category works out cheaper in the long run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the running order the gel sits between the wash and the polish. Wash first, dissolve the iron chemically, then clay, polish or seal. Dr. Wack explicitly recommends a durable sealant on every painted panel afterwards. From the same line the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-care-und-protect-spruehversiegelung\"\u003espray sealant\u003c\/a\u003e fits, and it goes straight onto the car while it is still wet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot every car needs this. One kept under cover with few miles on it and no railway or industry next door often shows no colour at all after five minutes. Look after a fleet, on the other hand, and a canister plus a pump sprayer gets you round quicker than a spray bottle. The real case sits in between: a car that lives outside, gets one thorough go a year and is put back under protection afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn storage the safety data sheet names exactly one condition: protect from frost. For your skin there is a second one: nitrile rubber is listed there as the suitable glove material, and a pair of those is basic kit with this product. The only published trade test comes from Camping Cars \u0026amp; Caravans 5\/2011, gave it a score of 1.8 and praised the handling and the material compatibility.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most valuable pass is in the end the one where nothing changes colour. If the panel is still pale after five minutes, there is no iron sitting there, and you save yourself the clay round, which always takes a little material with it. So before any detail the gel answers you the one question you can otherwise only feel for: is the paint clean, or only washed?\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707184664911,"sku":"D1-DRW-2550","price":16.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-flugrost-entferner-gel-flugrostentferner.png?v=1787867212"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-high-end-speed-detailer-quick-detailer","title":"A1 \"HIGH END\" Speed Detailer Quick Detailer","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"HIGH END\" Speed Detailer only shines on clean paint\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 \"HIGH END\" Speed Detailer? A quick detailer from Dr. Wack that takes dust and fingerprints off clean paint and builds its own beading while it's at it. No substitute for a wash, no polish and no sealant that lasts for weeks.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"HIGH END\" Speed Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e is a quick detailer from Dr. Wack for cleaning paint in between washes. The ingredient declaration lists under five per cent aliphatic hydrocarbons, meaning straight-chain solvents without the ring structure that makes plastic swell. They dissolve the greasy film of a fingerprint; the rest of the formula sits as a slip layer between towel and paint. For you that means the towel doesn't drag across the surface, it glides over it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference from a spray wax lies in the balance, not the base formula. A detailer carries more cleaning surfactants, a spray wax more protective ingredients. That's why this product can go on lightly soiled paint, and that's why its beading stays weaker than a spray sealant's. Lightly soiled means dust and fingerprints, not a week of country roads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFirst place for gloss and colour refresh.\u003c\/strong\u003e In 2022 AUTO BILD, together with the testing organisation KÜS, measured twelve detailers; the Speed Detailer came out as test winner with a grade of 1.1. The gloss measurement ran on panels that had been dulled down to 70 gloss units beforehand, and it raised the value more than any other.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree out of twelve stayed neutral on plastic.\u003c\/strong\u003e Several detailers in the same test left fine cracks on the polycarbonate strips, the material your headlight lenses are made of. The Speed Detailer was one of the three products that did no harm there. In practice: overspray on trim, mirror caps or headlights has no consequences.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDry or damp, same result.\u003c\/strong\u003e On dried paint you work it as a detailer, on still-wet paint as a drying aid. One user put both methods side by side on the same bonnet and found no difference in beading. The 500 ml bottle comes with a trigger sprayer; the 100 ml bottle weighs 132 grams when full.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We often get questions about fresh swirls that turn up in raking light after a dry detailer session. The formula brings a slip layer, not water: any grit on the paint travels along with the towel. Before you spray, run the back of your hand over the bonnet. If it feels gritty, the car needs the hose. After three dry days parked at the kerb, the detailer is the wrong tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWithout dwell time, the Speed Detailer softens nothing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSpray, spread, wipe off, all in one go: the manufacturer doesn't grant the Speed Detailer a single second of waiting time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's not convenience, it's design. A pre-cleaner gets dwell time because it's meant to break bonds; this detailer has nothing to break. It picks up what's already sitting loose on top and lays its film in the same pass. That's why the product information sheet puts the word clean before the first spray, and that's why you work in sections you can wipe off again in one pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe data sheet lists two towels instead of one, and the reason is the cleaning component. The first collects the dust you've just loosened; keep using it and you carry that dust onto the next panel. A deep-pile \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-das-tuch-premium-mikrofaser-mikrofasertuch\"\u003emicrofibre towel\u003c\/a\u003e traps the particles between its fibres, a flat-weave one pushes them along. So the second towel only gets dry work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe spray head puts out a wide, fine mist that you can set onto the panel or into the towel. If a spot dries on anyway, no harm done: re-spray, spread, wipe off. Sun and warm panels are the enemy, because the water content then flashes off faster than the towel can keep up. When you're done, turn the nozzle back; the stop setting keeps the bottle sealed in the boot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-high-end-speed-detailer-quick-detailer_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867829\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 HIGH END Speed Detailer being sprayed into a microfibre towel, dark bonnet behind\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a drying aid, the order flips. The detailer goes onto still-wet paint and you take water and product off in the same pass. The towel saturates noticeably faster, so keep a third one handy. If you want to check the beading right away, give the paint the two hours Dr. Wack specifies for the full effect. A shower before then does no damage, but it costs performance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe beading booster doesn't strengthen anything, it adds its own beading on top\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe beading booster doesn't renew a sealant, it lays its own layer over it; once that wears off, whatever was on the paint before takes over again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe manufacturer gives no durability figure at all, and that's consistent. One user left a treated bonnet half standing for three weeks, including hail and a wash by someone else, and found weaker but still present beading afterwards. A targeted hand wash with shampoo ended it in the same video. His verdict: one to three weeks, depending on conditions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe testers put the same process into numbers. An untreated panel takes six seconds for the water to run off completely, the best products in the field only 0.6 seconds, measured at a 30-degree incline and 480 litres per minute. After that, panels were hand-washed up to fifteen times and measured again each time. In this method a detailer doesn't get worse, it gets thinner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Speed Detailer doesn't clean scratch-free because it's soft, but because there's liquid between towel and paint. Take away that liquid, through too big an area, a saturated towel or paint that's been standing outside for two weeks, and the mechanism is gone. The manufacturer says scratch-free for light soiling. That's not a throwaway line, it's the condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo more limits are set. The approval covers metallic, solid, nano and more scratch-resistant clear coats as well as gloss wraps; matte paints and matte wraps don't appear there, which makes sense for a product that builds gloss. And the cleaning power stops at dust and fingerprints: bug residue, tar and tree sap need a different product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor everyday use that means a clear division of roles. If the paint is clean and you want to take off dust between two washes, reach for the A1 \"HIGH END\" Speed Detailer. If the protection needs to last for months, a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-high-end-spray-wax-spruehwachs\"\u003espray wax with longer durability\u003c\/a\u003e belongs on the paint, and the detailer becomes the tool for the time in between.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-high-end-speed-detailer-quick-detailer_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867832\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Wide spray mist of the A1 HIGH END Speed Detailer on the dark bonnet\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Speed Detailer is the last step, never the first\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDetailers come from professional valeting and show stands: they come out when the car is finished and about to be looked at.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat hits a fairly small group spot on. If your car lives in a garage and you take off the week's dust before a drive, if you still find water spots on the tailgate after the wash, if you want the last fingerprints off the driver's door before photos or a meet: for you, this is exactly the tool. If you want it to replace the wash, you're buying past the problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith the bottle size, where you use it decides, not how much. The 500 ml bottle with trigger sprayer sits on the shelf and does the whole car; the 100 ml bottle is just under 15 centimetres tall and weighs 132 grams full, it's the one for the boot. Five times the content costs less than three times the price; per litre the big bottle comes in about 46 per cent cheaper. To see what else is out there, check the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-quick-detailer\"\u003equick detailers\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd then there's the line under the test result. The grade of 1.1 was measured on black-painted, gloss-polished, degreased and freshly washed panels, in the manufacturer's own development lab, and AUTO BILD notes at the end of the article that the test was supported by Dr. Wack. That doesn't devalue the readings: KÜS measured alongside, and several products failed on material compatibility.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt just tells you under what conditions the top grade came about, namely on a surface with nothing on it. That same condition decides the result on your driveway too. Dr. O.K. Wack Chemie in Baar-Ebenhausen builds a product here for the final touch. It won't do the rest of the work for you.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707185025359,"sku":"D1-DRW-2690","price":15.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"100 ml","offer_id":58086101025103,"sku":"D1-DRW-2691","price":6.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-high-end-speed-detailer-quick-detailer.png?v=1787867223"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-high-end-spray-wax-spruehwachs","title":"A1 \"HIGH END\" Spray Wax","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eThe A1 \"HIGH END\" Spray Wax protects while you dry the car\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 \"HIGH END\" Spray Wax? A spray wax from Dr. Wack that you mist onto clean paint — damp paint is fine — spread with a microfibre towel and take straight back off. Not approved for matt paint, matt wrap or the glass in your line of sight.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"HIGH END\" Spray Wax\u003c\/strong\u003e is a water-based spray wax from Dr. Wack. The safety data sheet puts the density at 1.01 grams per cubic centimetre and calls the emulsion partly water-soluble. That is exactly why it still works on paint that is damp after the final rinse: the water left on the panel does not get in the way, it helps carry the product across.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt is a thick emulsion all the same. At 730 millipascal-seconds at 20 degrees it is around 700 times thicker than water, so it stays where the mist lands instead of running down the door. Day-to-day that means two things: you need very little per section, and every extra pull of the trigger leaves a film on the paint that the towel then has to lift off again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe test win is measured, not claimed.\u003c\/strong\u003e auto motor und sport ran ten spray waxes against each other and put the HIGH END first in June 2022 with 92 out of 100 points, full marks for water repellency. AUTO STRASSENVERKEHR landed on the same overall score two months later and gave 35 out of 35 points for hydrophobicity and long-term protection in the detailed scoring. Both tests ran on the reformulated mix that has been on the shelf since 1 March 2022.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH 7.1 means nothing here attacks anything.\u003c\/strong\u003e The data sheet measures 7.1 at 20 degrees, so effectively neutral. The spray wax has neither the acid of a wheel cleaner nor the alkali of a pre-cleaner, so there is nothing to bite into whatever is already sitting on the paint. You notice it because rubber seals, trim strips and gloss wrap come out of the session without white edges.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo bottle sizes with a clear split.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 500 ml bottle comes with a trigger gun and is built for the whole car. The 100 ml bottle is a pump spray for the door pocket and is plenty when you only touch up one panel. Per litre, the big bottle works out a good 40 per cent cheaper than the small one.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e What we see a lot on dark paint: people spray straight onto the panel and then find streaks standing in the backlight. The product is rarely the problem, the amount is. At 730 millipascal-seconds, one pull too many already lays down a layer a single towel cannot fully pick up. On black, dark blue and gloss wrap you put two pulls into the towel instead of onto the paint. Streaks that still show are not damage: spray again, spread, take it off with the dry side.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eToo much spray wax makes the streaks, not too little\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack calls for a thin coat on one connected section at a time, which you spread with the microfibre towel and take off straight away with the unused side of the towel, no waiting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe sequence is spelled out word for word in the product information sheet: shake the bottle well, turn the nozzle to spray, mist on thinly, spread, wipe off, nozzle back to stop. Stop is the anti-leak setting. A section is roughly one panel: a door, a wing, half the bonnet. Spray a whole side of the car in one go and you end up fighting product that has already started to grab by the time you reach the back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo of the notes are conditions, not suggestions: never in direct sun and never on hot paint, and never let the product dry on. On a bonnet that has stood an hour in August sun, the water flashes off faster than you can move the towel. At that point you are not spreading a film any more, you are rubbing residue around.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn damp paint the spray wax is approved as a drying aid. You pull the drying towel over the panel, mist onto paint that is still slightly damp, spread and wipe off. Dr. Wack then wants the paint kept away from water for at least an hour so the long-term effect can set. Drive straight out into a downpour and you get the beading, but you have given away the rest.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe order around the car is yours to pick, the direction is not. Work top down, so roof, bonnet and boot lid first, then the flanks. The horizontal panels catch the most rain and the most bird mess, and they should not be waiting while your towel is already dragging product over from the doors. The two bottles also spray differently: the 500 ml has a trigger gun, the 100 ml a plain pump spray that needs more pulls for the same area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo towels is not being precious with this one. Dr. Wack recommends two of its own \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-das-tuch-premium-mikrofaser-mikrofasertuch\"\u003epremium microfibre towel\u003c\/a\u003e, one for spreading and one for the wipe-off, because the thick emulsion saturates the first towel fast. Both verified Trusted Shops reviews so far pick out exactly that point: laying it down and taking it off is straightforward as soon as the towel is dry and clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-high-end-spray-wax-spruehwachs_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867837\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 HIGH END Spray Wax going onto the microfibre towel instead of straight onto the paint\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDr. Wack does not put a number of months on it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe manufacturer writes months of lasting paint protection and puts the limit in the same line: depending on external factors. There is no hard figure anywhere, not even in the data sheet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat was measured is the hydrophobicity. The word literally means water-shy and describes how hard a surface pushes water away. You see it as beading, droplets standing up proud, and as sheeting, when the water runs off in one closed curtain. In plain terms: the less water stays on the paint, the fewer limescale rings dry in after the rain. That one discipline is where the full score came from.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the scene reports fills the gap the manufacturer leaves. On Fahrzeugpflegeforum one user says the layer had dropped off noticeably after 1,200 kilometres and three weeks, another lost the slickness after five weeks and three washes. Beading and sheeting are strong at the start and get weaker with every wash. If you cover a lot of miles, you top up monthly rather than twice a year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit sits in the approval list, in what is missing from it. The list covers metallic and solid paint, nano paint and the more scratch-resistant clear coats, plus gloss wrap. Matt paint and matt wrap are not on it, which follows for a product built to add mirror gloss. Glass is not on it either: on glass, users report light ghosting when the wipers run, and in your line of sight that is the wrong trade-off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEven the test score stays honest. The 92 out of 100 at AUTO STRASSENVERKEHR include 9 of a possible 10 points for material compatibility, not the full mark. On black paint and a wrapped roof, hands-on testers found the odd streak too, easy enough to remove, but there all the same.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-high-end-spray-wax-spruehwachs_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867842\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Mist of A1 HIGH END Spray Wax landing on the dark bonnet during application\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe HIGH END works in the towel, the Speed Wax in the sponge\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBoth A1 spray waxes protect the paint, but they ask for different work: the HIGH END comes straight back off, the Speed Wax Plus 3 has to dry through completely first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you put ten minutes in after every wash and want the paint protected at the end of it, the A1 \"HIGH END\" Spray Wax is the right one. If you turn up twice a year and want up to six months of beading, you grab the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-speed-wax-plus-3-spruehwachs\"\u003espray wax with the carnauba booster\u003c\/a\u003e. That one works with an applicator sponge, a circular application and a flash-off until it is fully dry, and it wants paint that is new or freshly polished.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat splits the two audiences cleanly. The HIGH END is for people who fold the protection into the drying pass and would rather freshen it up every few weeks than block out a slot for it. It is not the product for someone who books a whole Saturday in spring and expects half a year of peace afterwards. You will find both routes side by side in the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-spruehwachs\"\u003eDr. Wack spray wax range\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBottle size comes down to area, not ambition. The 500 ml with the trigger gun covers a whole car, the 100 ml is meant for touching up a single panel and costs a good 40 per cent more per litre. Storage is frost-free: the data sheet puts the freezing point at 0 degrees, and an emulsion that has frozen through splits and never comes back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd then there is the number that makes the real difference. The 92 points come from June 2022. The formula that earned them has been on the shelf since 1 March 2022, reworked after the recall of 29 June 2021, when a raw material that varied batch to batch cost four batches their long-term hydrophobicity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. O.K. Wack Chemie in Baar-Ebenhausen shut down the cause, replaced the product free of charge for every buyer regardless of batch, and rebuilt the formula. So when you read the test win, you are not reading a brand promise, you are reading the result of a correction. That is exactly why we quote the number from the test on this product and not the word months off the bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707185877327,"sku":"D1-DRW-2680","price":16.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"100 ml","offer_id":58584739316047,"sku":"D1-DRW-2681","price":6.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"750 ml (Limited Edition 2025)","offer_id":54731453792591,"sku":"D1-DRW-2682","price":18.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-high-end-spray-wax-spruehwachs.png?v=1787867239"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-kratzer-polish-politur","title":"A1 \"Kratzer Polish\" Polish (+microfibre cloth)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"Kratzer Polish\" removes swirls instead of filling them\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"Kratzer Polish\"? A silicone-free hand polish from Dr. Wack for individual fine scratches in clear coat and hard plastic, headlights included. Not for matte paint, matte wraps, chrome trim or scratches that go down to the primer.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Kratzer Polish\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a scratch remover polish from Dr. Wack in Baar-Ebenhausen that works fine scratches out of clear coat and hard plastic surfaces in one step. The reason you can see a scratch like that at all isn't missing paint. The groove has rough, broken flanks, and they bounce incoming light back in every direction instead of one. Your eye reads that as a white line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThink frosted glass. The pane isn't dark, it's just rough, and that's exactly why you can't see through it. A fine scratch is the miniature version of that, a few microns wide. The abrasives in Kratzer Polish have a very uniform grain size and break down into smaller and smaller particles as you work. They smooth the flanks until the spot reflects light in a single, focused direction again. You'll notice it: the reflection runs across the spot without a break.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe alcohol test proved it.\u003c\/strong\u003e In 2022, AUTO BILD compared scratch removers and then wiped the polished areas down with an alcohol solution — in the scene, that step is called a panel wipe. Whatever had only been covered up with silicone showed up again. With Kratzer Polish, the gloss stayed put: 259.5 out of 300 points, grade 1.6, a win against nine competitors and Product of the Year.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e50 ml, not a gram of silicone.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone-free isn't a label here, it's the reason the result lasts. There's simply nothing that could slip into the groove and fake gloss. A second benefit, in case a panel gets resprayed soon: body shops keep silicone away from the car, because residue in fresh paint causes craters.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePaint, bumpers and headlights from one tube.\u003c\/strong\u003e On hard plastic, Dr. Wack approves three kinds of damage: yellowing, dullness and fine scratches, especially on polycarbonate headlight lenses. In practice, that means you don't need a second product for the cloudy headlight, or for the branch scratch on the door.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Use two cloths, not one. Dr. Wack includes the microfibre cloth specifically for buffing off; according to the instructions, you apply with a damp cloth. Do both with the same rag and at the end you'll drag the saturated side back over the freshly polished spot, turning gloss into smears. So use a second, slightly damp cloth to apply, and keep the included one dry for removal. What we see day-to-day, that's the one move that decides between clean and almost clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOnce it's dried on, Kratzer Polish stops working\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDirect sun and warm panels make the polish dry on before it has done its job. It needs a clean, dry, cool surface and a cloth that stays damp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eShake the tube, put a small amount on the damp cloth, then work it into the spot with pressure. Work in palm-sized sections rather than the whole door — Dr. Wack explicitly says to treat larger areas section by section.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs long as the cloth stays damp, the abrasives stay mobile. Once it dries, you're just pushing paste around the paint instead of removing material. Then add more product rather than rubbing longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWork a little beyond the scratch. Polish removes clear coat, and if you stop exactly on the line, you create a hard edge between treated and untreated paint. In raking light you'll then see a patch instead of a scratch. Feather out 2 to 3 cm beyond it with decreasing pressure and the transition disappears.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen let the spot dry on well and buff it to a high gloss with the included dry cloth. If the scratch is still there, repeat the pass. That's the intended route, not a sign that the tube is too weak. The first time, a door edge takes longer than you'd think; by the third time, you'll do it in passing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe formula is approved for machine polishers. That's worth it for a dull headlight or a bonnet scratched all over; for a single branch scratch, your hand is quicker than setting up the machine. If you see holograms in direct light afterwards — fine smears in the reflection — the pressure was too high or the pad too dry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-kratzer-polish-politur_anwendung.png?v=1787867848\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Kratzer Polish being squeezed from the tube onto a folded microfibre cloth\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eIf your fingernail catches, only a body shop can help\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA1 \"Kratzer Polish\" works in the clear coat, the top layer. Run your nail across the scratch, and if it catches, the groove goes deeper than any polish will ever reach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack is clear about this itself: scratches down to the primer can only be fixed with a paint repair at a body shop. The target is car-wash swirls, wipe marks, the branch scratch from the farm-track exit, the bag buckle on the driver's door. Anything you can't feel with your fingernail is a job for the tube.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo surfaces are completely off limits: matte paint and matte wraps. A polish whose purpose is gloss does exactly the wrong thing there, and you won't get it back. Nor does the product belong on chrome-plated plastic parts like badges, or on soft unpainted plastics in the cabin, such as the dashboard and door cards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe headlight deserves a line of its own, because two things get mixed up there. The lens is a type-approved polycarbonate part with a thin factory protective layer — the plastic's sunscreen. Take that off with sandpaper and you've modified an approved part, which the roadworthiness inspection treats as a major defect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA polish that just brightens the yellowed film on top of that layer is a different thing, and that's exactly what Dr. Wack approves the headlight for. If the protective layer is gone over a large area and the lens feels chalky, though, this tube won't bring it back to new either. Then it's a specialist with a fresh sealing layer, or a new part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd a limit that isn't on any label: if the spot is still visible after the second pass, stop. Every further pass takes clear coat, and you won't get that back. A faintly visible scratch is a smaller problem than a panel with too-thin clear coat that'll be the first to start chalking in a few years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo the split is simple. If three specific spots bug you, grab A1 \"Kratzer Polish\". If the whole paint looks dull and grey, an \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur\"\u003eall-over polish with carnauba protection\u003c\/a\u003e is the right tool — 500 ml, meant for the whole car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003e50 millilitres is enough for spots. Not for panels.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFifty millilitres sit on the shelf next to a 500 millilitre all-over polish from the same range. The factor of ten isn't cost-cutting, it's a statement of what the tube is for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's for drivers who have their car under control and see an annoyance in two or three places: the wipe marks around the fuel flap, the pale line on the wing, the cloudy headlight. If you want to refresh the entire paint, 50 ml is the wrong size. That's what the big packs in our \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-autopolitur\"\u003ecar polishes\u003c\/a\u003e are for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe tube's standing in the market speaks for itself, without any fuss. AUTO BILD test winner 2022; auto motor und sport already had it in first place out of eight back in 2014, with 122 out of 150 points. For a product that's had the same single job for years, that's the more interesting number than any superlative.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs long as the groove sits in the clear coat, it's a cosmetic problem and fixable by hand. Once it goes through base coat and primer, it becomes a substance problem, and the tube is out of its depth. That's why it makes sense to keep it in the car, not on the shelf: a spot you treat the day it happens is the easiest case this product will ever get.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd the point no tube tells you: after buffing off, that exact spot is the only one on the car with no protective film. Silicone-free also means nothing is left behind — no wax, no polymer, nothing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe freshly exposed clear coat picks up road film faster than the paint around it, and the spot soon stands out again, this time because it's duller than the rest of the door. Lay a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-care-und-protect-spruehversiegelung\"\u003espray sealant from the same range\u003c\/a\u003e straight over it. That's the difference between a scratch that's gone and a spot that stays gone.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"50 mL","offer_id":54707187712335,"sku":"D1-DRW-2714","price":14.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-kratzer-polish-politur.png?v=1787867688"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-glaenzend","title":"A1 \"Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger\" Trim care (gloss)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eFaded bumpers and trim strips come back glossy black with the A1 trim dressing\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the Dr. Wack A1 \"Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger\" in gloss? A colour refresher for plastic, rubber and vinyl that brings faded black back on bumpers, trim strips and wheel arch liners and, according to the manufacturer, stands up particularly well to rain and car washes. Keep it off glass, paint, the tyre tread and the interior controls.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe gloss trim dressing from Dr. Wack\u003c\/strong\u003e is car plastic care made at the factory in Baar-Ebenhausen, designed for every exterior and interior plastic, rubber and vinyl surface on the vehicle. You dose it onto a cloth or a fine-pored sponge, never onto the part itself. After about 5 minutes you wipe over it. What stays behind is a film with UV protection and an antistatic effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat a grey part can turn black again is something you see at every wash. Wet, the bumper is jet black; as it dries, the black retreats into grey. Over the years before, the part didn't lose any colour, it lost a smooth surface. Rain, road salt and above all UV radiation break down the top layers of the plastic and leave it microscopically rough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA rough surface scatters light in every direction instead of bouncing it back in one beam. The gloss level drops, and that's exactly what your eye reads as a grey haze. Water fills that roughness for a few minutes and makes the surface look smooth again. The A1 gloss does the same, except it stays put once it's dry. In day-to-day terms: the black you see on the wet part is the black you get.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRunning in parallel is the second ageing process, which Dr. Wack names in its own product information sheet. Over the years plastic loses its plasticisers and turns brittle. The dressing works against that preventively, because according to the manufacturer it soaks in rather than just sitting on top, and it brings UV protection along. It doesn't undo anything. If you wait until the wheel arch trim cracks at the edge, you're treating a part that crossed that line long ago.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTested on a bumper, not on a dashboard.\u003c\/strong\u003e In 2017 a comparison test at the Kärcher lab in Winnenden took on 16 plastic colour refreshers, applied section by section to the unpainted front bumper of a 1996 Ford Fiesta. The instant effect was measured with a gloss meter, then wash-off resistance over two rain cycles of 10 minutes each. The A1 gloss won with 91 out of 100 points, while most of the field was visibly fading after the first rain cycle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e5 minutes dwell time, a second pass after 30 minutes.\u003c\/strong\u003e You apply the dressing sparingly with a cloth or fine-pored sponge, let it soak in for about 5 minutes, then wipe over it. Half an hour later the manufacturer calls for a second coat, and that's the one that delivers the advertised long-term effect. Outside, this step isn't optional: whatever is meant to survive rain and the car wash gets built in the second pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e250 millilitres cover the exterior trim of a car several times over.\u003c\/strong\u003e It doesn't go on across whole panels like shampoo, but thinly via the applicator, and what you treat is bumpers, trim strips, arch liners and seals rather than entire body sides. User reports put the next round at 2 to 3 months. Dr. Wack doesn't give a coverage figure in millilitres per part, and we won't make one up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The questions we get about the gloss version almost all take the same shape: blotchy, cloudy, glossier in one spot than the next. That's not a product fault, it's what gloss does. A matte surface forgives a lap mark; a glossy one shows it as a shadow stripe. So work part by part rather than hand-width by hand-width: the bumper edge to edge in one go, then the next trim piece. And dose onto the cloth, never onto the part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDo the trim in one go, not in patches\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe A1 gloss goes onto a clean, dry surface, gets spread sparingly with a cloth or fine-pored sponge and is wiped over with a dry cloth after about 5 minutes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFirst, the surface has to be clean. On trim, meaning the unpainted black plastic parts outside, there's more than dust after a winter: traffic film, road salt residue and wax haze from the last polish. An \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-intensivreiniger-aussen-intensivreiniger\"\u003eA1 \"ALL in ONE\" heavy-duty cleaner (exterior)\u003c\/a\u003e takes that off. After that the car needs proper drying time, not just one pass with a drying towel. Every gap and every trim edge still holds water after the wash, and it runs out as you apply, pulling pale streaks right there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen the part-by-part rule applies. Take the whole bumper, arch to arch, then the sill trim, then the wheel arch liner. Stop halfway and carry on twenty minutes later, and you set an edge between fresh and half-dried product that later shows up as a shadow in raking light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOutside, heat is the underrated enemy. A black trim piece in the midday sun gets hot enough that the product flashes off before it can soak in. That's exactly why the product information sheet rules out direct sun and hot parts. In practice: shady side first, or push the whole job into the early evening.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUnder the bonnet the same temperature rule applies, only stricter. Engine covers, the airbox and the scuttle panel are plastic surfaces like any other and are among the spots where greying shows most. Work there on a cold engine, not straight after a drive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe gloss brings back the colour, not the material\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe no-go surface closest to hand outside is the tyre tread: a hand's width below the arch liner you're working on. Add glass, painted parts and, inside, controls like the steering wheel and pedals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe add headlights out of our own conviction. Headlight lenses are an optical surface with the same job as glass, and a dressing film on them scatters light instead of letting it through. You'll notice it straight away with oncoming traffic at night. On the tyre the dividing line is finer than it sounds: the sidewall is a rubber surface like any other, the tread is off limits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is more fundamental. The dressing works on the surface and gives it its black back, but it doesn't rebuild material. A scratch stays a scratch, a web of hairline cracks in an old trim piece stays visible, just black instead of grey. And a part that's already so brittle it snaps at the edge won't turn flexible again with any dressing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn return it scores a point many cheap products miss: the A1 is solvent-free. Solvent-based dressings give instant depth, but they evaporate again and take with them whatever mobile components are still left in the plastic. The upshot: after treatment the part isn't drier than before, it just has one more protective film.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat leads to a clear if-then rule, and it hinges on the factory finish of the part. If the part left the factory glossy, like piano-black trim strips, grille surrounds or smooth trim panels, this version is the right one. If it was delivered grained and matte, like many modern bumper inserts and wheel arch trims, reach for the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-matt\"\u003ematte version of the trim dressing\u003c\/a\u003e, otherwise the part ends up looking like something it never was.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd a dressing is not a coating. The test measured two rain cycles, not a season. That the A1 barely faded doesn't mean it lasts a year, it means it hangs on longer than most of the others in the same trial.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOut in the open plastic ages, under a roof it barely does\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou'll get the most out of this product if your car lives outside, because there UV and rain work on the trim all year round and the greying comes back fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a car kept under cover and driven twice a month in summer, the same process takes years. There a refresh every few seasons is more honest than a fixed interval, and the 250 ml bottle lasts accordingly. If you're bringing back a ten-year-old car with badly faded trim, on the other hand, plan the second pass after 30 minutes in from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne side effect from the product information sheet is worth more in day-to-day detailing than it sounds: the A1 gloss lifts polish and wax residue off plastic parts. Exactly those white edges that sit in the grain of the bumper and trim after a paint polish and won't come out with a cloth. A job plenty of people buy a separate product for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAntistatic is the second point that plays out differently outside than inside. The surface no longer holds an electrostatic charge for fine dust to cling to. You notice it because the grey traffic film builds up more slowly between two washes and comes off more easily at the next one. If you want to dig further, the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/kunststoffpflege\"\u003eplastic care\u003c\/a\u003e range also has products built for pure colour depth without the staying power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFinally, the test no manufacturer writes down, and one you should do before you even start. Point the hose at the grey part and look at it wet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf it turns jet black, the greying is purely optical and down to the roughened surface. That's exactly the state the dressing brings back, and the wet part shows you in advance what the result will look like. If it stays milky grey even when wet, the surface has broken down further than any dressing can make up for. Then you don't need a dressing but mechanical prep or a re-dyeing product, and two minutes with the hose save you a letdown.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707187843407,"sku":"D1-DRW-2780","price":12.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-glaenzend-kunststoffpflege.png?v=1787867254"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-matt","title":"A1 \"Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger\" Trim Care (Matt)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eThe Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger matt brings the colour back without putting a reflection in the screen\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the Dr. Wack A1 \"Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger\" matt? A colour refresh for plastic, rubber and vinyl inside and out that dries down matt and, the manufacturer says, cuts reflections of the dashboard in the windscreen. Not suitable for glass, painted parts, tyre treads or controls such as the steering wheel and pedals.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKunststoff-Tiefenpfleger matt\u003c\/strong\u003e is a trim care product from Dr. Wack, made at the plant in Baar-Ebenhausen, for every interior and exterior plastic, rubber and vinyl surface on the car. You dose it onto a cloth and not onto the part, then it soaks in for around 5 minutes and gets wiped off. What stays behind is an antistatic film with a UV filter that scatters light instead of bouncing it back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBehind that sit two ageing processes that Dr. Wack names in its own product information sheet. Over the years plastic loses its plasticisers, the small mobile molecules that sit between the long chain molecules and let them slide past each other. Once those have evaporated, chain rubs on chain, the part goes hard and sooner or later it splits at the edge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt the same time UV light cracks the colour pigments open, and black turns into that washed-out grey. The Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger matt works against both: the manufacturer says it soaks into the plastic rather than just sitting on top, and it brings a UV filter with it. Day-to-day that means you are not treating the grey haze, you are treating what makes it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMatt here is not a taste, it is scatter.\u003c\/strong\u003e A matt surface throws light off in every direction, a glossy one bundles it — and that bundle is exactly what a steeply raked windscreen sends back into your field of view. That is why carmakers ship dashboards grained and dark. Two of the eight product benefits in the information sheet turn on this point: the reduced reflection and the explicit approval for plastics that are already matt.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFive minutes working in the material, not on it.\u003c\/strong\u003e You lay it on sparingly through a cloth or a fine-pored sponge, then come 5 minutes of dwell time and the wipe-off. Those five minutes are the difference between colouring the plastic and coating it: whatever has not soaked in by then belongs in the towel, not on the dashboard.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo bottles for two ranges.\u003c\/strong\u003e The small 50 ml bottle is the size for one car interior and for anyone who first wants to see how matt matt really looks on their plastic. The big one holds 250 ml, five times as much, and covers bumpers, arch trims and exterior mouldings on top. Inside, users report 2 to 3 months before the next round.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We get a lot of questions about why the plastic looks streaky or greasy after treatment. Nearly always the same step is missing. Wiping down after the five minutes is not cosmetic, it is what creates the matt finish in the first place. Whatever has not soaked in during the dwell time is sitting on top as a film, and that film shines, goes tacky and pulls in dust. Take it off with a dry, clean towel, not with the one you applied with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe five minutes belong to the plastic, the rest belongs to the towel\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a dusty panel, all your cloth spreads around is dust. The Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger matt belongs on a clean, dry surface, and it goes onto the cloth, never onto the part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo clean it first. An \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-innenraumreiniger-glasreiniger\"\u003einterior and glass cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e pulls dust, the greasy film from fingers and nicotine residue off the surface, and then it has to dry. Put the conditioner on damp material and you thin it out and get clouds instead of an even panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen dose it sparingly onto a soft, absorbent cloth or a fine-pored sponge and lay it on evenly. Let it dwell for 5 minutes — that is when the actual work happens, the rest of the time you are only waiting. Then wipe down with a second, dry towel until the surface comes back flat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the full long-term effect Dr. Wack recommends a second round after about 30 minutes. That is the step almost nobody does, and it costs barely any product: the plastic is largely saturated from the first pass, so the second coat only fills the spots that came up short.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo conditions come as notes in the product information sheet: no direct sun, no heated-up surface. A dashboard that has stood in the sun all morning is hot enough to dry the conditioner off before it can soak in. Then the film sits on top and you are back at the streak problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-matt_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867852\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Dr. Wack A1 Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger matt with a folded microfibre towel on the centre console\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe conditioner has no business on the steering wheel or the pedals\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack rules out four surfaces outright: glass, painted parts, tyre treads and controls such as the steering wheel and pedals. With the last two it is not about the material, it is about grip.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe film that keeps dust off also lowers friction. On a steering wheel rim or a brake pedal that is the wrong property, because your hand and your shoe need to hold on there. The same thinking goes for the gear lever, the handbrake grip and the floor mats, even if those are not named in the exclusion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGlass is just as much off limits. Nothing soaks in there, the film stays put and in backlight it produces exactly the smears you set out to get rid of. On the tyre the dividing line is finer than it sounds: the sidewall is a rubber surface like any other, the tread is explicitly excluded.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen the honest read from the lab. Auto Bild put nine plastic conditioners up against each other on colour refresh, durability over five washes, water repellency and material compatibility. The matt A1 won the test with a grade of 1.5, and it picked up its points mainly on wash durability and material compatibility. Another product in the same field refreshed the colour more strongly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat gives you a clean if-then rule. If a part has to stay matt, so dashboard, door cards, grained and already matt plastics, you take this version. If you want maximum colour depth on black trim, on the unpainted plastic of bumpers, wheel arches and mouldings, and the gloss level there is not an issue, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-glaenzend\"\u003eglossy version of the conditioner\u003c\/a\u003e is the better tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd a limit in the other direction: the conditioner makes nothing matt that left the factory glossy. It simply adds no gloss of its own, that is all. So a piano-black panel on the centre console stays glossy, however often you work it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eInside, dust decides how long it lasts, not the rain\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe long-term effect Dr. Wack advertises is an outdoor figure. It describes how many wet drives and car washes the film survives. Inside the cabin, neither of those two is attacking it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIndoors, dust decides. Antistatic means the surface no longer holds the electrostatic charge that dust clings to. You notice it because the grey haze comes back more slowly and lifts off dry, instead of you having to turn up with a damp cloth again. Users report two to three months before the next round is due.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOutside the maths is different. On black trim, rain, road salt and car washes work against the film, and that is exactly where the test measured durability. One special case is in the product information sheet as well: the Kunststoff-Tiefenpfleger matt lifts polish and wax residue off plastic parts. If you have white edges sitting on the bumper after a polish, this is the tool for them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWho actually gains from it: drivers whose cockpit catches more sun than the rest of the car, so convertibles and anything that lives outdoors. And anyone driving into a low sun morning or evening. In December the sun here sits less than 15 degrees above the horizon at midday, its light hits the windscreen at almost a grazing angle, and then the gloss level of the dashboard is part of what decides how much you see.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you wipe the inside of your car out twice a year and live with the grey, you do not need the deep action and will find simpler options in \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/kunststoffpflege\"\u003etrim care\u003c\/a\u003e. And if your cockpit is piano black and display surfaces, you are only treating the grained parts around them anyway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFinally, the test no manufacturer writes down: judge the result on the windscreen, not on the dashboard. Straight after the wipe-down every treated surface looks good, from above, under cabin light, from half a metre away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhether too much product stayed behind only shows from the driver's seat, looking into the light. Sit in and look for the outline of the dashboard in the screen. If it is there, one pass with the dry towel is missing. If it is gone, you worked clean.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707188498767,"sku":"D1-DRW-2770","price":12.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"50 ml","offer_id":58584740233551,"sku":"D1-DRW-2773","price":5.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-kunststoff-tiefenpfleger-kunststoffpflege-matt.png?v=1787867264"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-leder-pflege-lederpflege","title":"A1 \"Leather Care\" Leather care","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eDr. Wack A1 \"Leder-Pflege\" hält die Deckschicht geschmeidig und bremst Risse\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWas ist die Dr. Wack A1 \"Leder-Pflege\"? Ein lösemittelfreier Pflegefilm auf Jojobaöl-Basis, der auf Glattleder jeder Art und auf Kunstleder darf, gelochte und perforierte Sitze eingeschlossen. Er hält die Deckschicht geschmeidig, schützt vor Ausbleichen durch UV-Strahlen und lässt Wasser abperlen. Kein Reiniger, keine Versiegelung und nichts für Wildleder.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack A1 \"Leder-Pflege\"\u003c\/strong\u003e ist eine Lederpflege von Dr. Wack auf Jojobaöl-Basis für Glattleder und Kunstleder im Fahrzeug. Sie legt einen dünnen Film auf die Deckschicht und hält ihn geschmeidig. Damit arbeitet sie gegen das, was Dr. Wack im Produktinformationsblatt als Problem beschreibt: Hitze, Feuchtigkeit, UV-Einstrahlung und Schmutz machen Leder spröde und rissig.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDer Wirkstoff trägt Öl im Namen und ist chemisch keins. Jojobaöl ist ein flüssiges Wachs, ein Ester aus langkettigen Fettsäuren und Fettalkoholen, dem die ungesättigten Stellen weitgehend fehlen, an denen Sauerstoff sonst angreift. Genau darauf stützt Dr. Wack die Angabe temperatur- und alterungsbeständig. Heißt für dich: Der Film wird über Monate nicht ranzig und nicht klebrig, anders als fettbasierte Hausmittel auf einem Ledersitz.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie zweite Hälfte der Antwort steckt im Untergrund. Über der gefärbten Haut sitzt bei modernem Autoleder eine Polyurethan-Deckschicht, eine hauchdünne Lackschicht, die Farbe und Abriebfestigkeit trägt. Durch die kommt kein Öl. Merkst du daran: Was nach dem Auftragen dunkler und satter aussieht, ist keine getränkte Haut, sondern eine geschmeidig gehaltene Oberfläche, die laut Hersteller die Farbtiefe zurückbringt, ohne zu glänzen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGeschmeidigkeit und Risse wurden im Labor gemessen.\u003c\/strong\u003e Das Blatt nennt zwei Wirkungen, die zusammengehören: Die Pflege beugt Rissbildung vor und verhindert ein Wachsen vorhandener Risse. Die GTÜ hat im März 2014 genau diese Seite geprüft, nach genormten Verfahren auf Faltenbildung, Geschmeidigkeit und Imprägnierungsschutz, mit Druckbelastung, Abrollen und Wasserbenetzung. Ergebnis für das Gespann aus Reiniger und Pflege: 239 von 300 Punkten, Platz 1 von 10.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBeading auf dem Sitz, nicht nur auf dem Lack.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack gibt an, dass der Film vor Verschmutzung schützt und Wasser abperlen lässt. Auf Leder heißt das dasselbe wie auf Lack: Der Tropfen steht als Kugel, statt einzuziehen. Weil Autoleder zu 99,9 Prozent oberflächengefärbtes Glattleder ist, entscheidet diese oberste Lage darüber, ob ein Kaffeespritzer abgenommen oder später herausgearbeitet wird.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e250 ml, und das Blatt besteht auf sparsam.\u003c\/strong\u003e Gleichmäßig und sparsam auftragen ist keine Floskel, sondern die Bedienungsanleitung: Was die Deckschicht nicht aufnimmt, bleibt als Film liegen und wird speckig. Eine Reichweite pro Flasche gibt Dr. Wack nirgends an. Wir arbeiten deshalb in handtellergroßen Abschnitten und wischen jeden einzeln mit der trockenen Tuchseite nach.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePraxistipp von Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Je nach Saugfähigkeit des Leders einwirken lassen ist alles, was Dr. Wack zur Einwirkzeit schreibt. Aus unserer Praxis wird daraus eine klare Ansage: Trag eine handtellergroße Probefläche auf die Fahrerwange auf und schau nach 1 Minute hin. Ist der Glanz weg, hat das Leder aufgenommen und verträgt einen zweiten dünnen Auftrag. Glänzt es noch, ist die Deckschicht satt, und der Rest gehört sofort mit der trockenen Tuchseite ab.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eJede Lederzone saugt anders, die Fahrerwange am stärksten\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie Leder-Pflege kommt sparsam auf ein weiches Tuch, nie direkt auf die Fläche, und wird auf gereinigtem, trockenem Leder in handtellergroßen Abschnitten verteilt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eVorher gehört die Flasche geschüttelt, sonst liegt das Wachs unten. Dr. Wack nennt als Auftragswerkzeug ein weiches, saugfähiges Tuch, einen feinporigen Schwamm oder das hauseigene \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-mikrofasertuch-mikrofasertuch\"\u003eA1 \"ALL in ONE\" Mikrofasertuch\u003c\/a\u003e. Alle drei leisten dasselbe: Sie dosieren. Ein Tuch gibt genau so viel ab, wie du hineingegeben hast, und nimmt am Ende mit der zweiten, trockenen Seite wieder auf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie Fläche entscheidet, wie viel davon verschwindet. An der Einstiegswange des Fahrersitzes ist die Deckschicht am stärksten beansprucht, dort scheuert bei jedem Einsteigen die Jeans darüber. Diese Zone nimmt sichtbar mehr auf als die Rückbank, die in vielen Autos jahrelang fast unberührt bleibt. Wer beide gleich behandelt, hat vorne zu wenig und hinten einen Film liegen, der nach zwei Tagen staubig wirkt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eZwischen Auftragen und Nachwischen liegt eine kurze Abluftphase, und die dauert genau so lange, wie das Leder braucht. Bei einer glatten, gut erhaltenen Nappa-Fläche sind das Sekunden. Bei einer matten, schon aufgerauten Wange kann es 1 Minute dauern. Der Saugtest aus dem Praxistipp beantwortet das schneller als jede Faustregel, weil er die Antwort am Fahrzeug misst statt sie zu schätzen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWärme ist für eine Pflege ein anderes Problem als für einen Reiniger. Auf einer aufgeheizten Fläche schlägt der Film dort nieder, wo er auftrifft, und lässt sich nicht mehr gleichmäßig ausziehen. Was entsteht, sind Wolken statt einer Lage. Deshalb schließt Dr. Wack pralle Sonne und erhitzte Oberflächen aus. Schatten, offene Türen, 10 Minuten Geduld.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePerforierte Sitze verlangen die flache Hand. Was in eine Lochreihe gedrückt wird, trocknet dort nicht durch, und darunter sitzt Schaumstoff, der aufnimmt was durchkommt. Die Freigabe für gelochtes Leder gilt genau unter dieser Bedingung. Am Lenkradkranz arbeitest du noch dünner als sonst und polierst mit der trockenen Seite nach, bis der Griff wieder stumpf ist.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eNeues Autoleder braucht keine Rückfettung, es braucht Schutz\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePigmentiertes Autoleder lässt sich nicht füttern. Die geschlossene Deckschicht darüber lässt keine Fette in die Faser durch, deshalb arbeitet jede Pflege auf dieser Lage und nicht in der Haut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDas Lederzentrum, seit Jahrzehnten die Fachadresse für Lederreparatur, formuliert es klar: In den ersten drei Jahren braucht Autoleder keine Rückfettung, es ist noch optimal vom Gerber ausgerüstet. Was es braucht, ist Schutz vor Verschleiß und Abfärbungen durch Bekleidung. Wer ein drei Jahre altes Autoleder rückfetten will, cremt eine Regenjacke ein: Das Material ist beschichtet, und die Creme bleibt außen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGenau da liegt die Stärke dieses Produkts, und genau da liegt seine erste Grenze. Die A1 \"Leder-Pflege\" ist ein Schutzfilm, kein Nahrungsmittel. Sie hält die Deckschicht elastisch, legt eine wasserabweisende Lage darüber und nimmt den Abrieb ab, der sonst die Farbschicht trifft. Bei einem Leder, das nach fünfzehn Jahren wirklich ausgetrocknet ist, ersetzt sie eine rückfettende Pflegemilch nicht.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie zweite Grenze ist harmloser zu benennen und teurer zu ignorieren. Wo die Deckschicht durchgescheuert ist und der helle Untergrund durchblitzt, bringt kein Pflegefilm Farbe zurück. Das ist ein Fall für die Lederaufbereitung mit Farbauftrag, nicht für eine Flasche. Die Pflege verlangsamt den Weg dorthin, sie kehrt ihn nicht um.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie dritte Grenze steht dort, wo der Hersteller schweigt. Wie viele Monate der Film trägt, beziffert Dr. Wack an keiner Stelle, und wir erfinden keine Zahl. Was sich sagen lässt: Er ist eine Pflege, keine Beschichtung. Wer eine mehrjährige Standzeit sucht, sucht eine Lederversiegelung, und das ist ein anderes Produkt mit anderer Vorbereitung.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie vierte steht auf der Flasche: Wildleder, Nubuk und Alcantara sind ausgeschlossen, weil dort kein geschlossener Film existiert, den man pflegen könnte. Für die Wahl gilt damit eine einfache Regel. Wenn dein Leder jung, pigmentiert und intakt ist, ist Schutz die richtige Aufgabe und die A1 \"Leder-Pflege\" die passende Flasche. Wenn es alt, matt und wirklich spröde ist, greifst du in der Kategorie \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/lederpflege\"\u003eLederpflege\u003c\/a\u003e zu einer rückfettenden Pflegemilch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDer Fahrersitz will die Pflege viermal so oft wie die Rückbank\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEin Pflegeintervall nennt Dr. Wack nicht. Wir arbeiten mit zweimal im Jahr für die gesamte Lederausstattung und deutlich häufiger für Fahrersitz und Lenkrad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie Zahlen dahinter kommen aus zwei Richtungen und decken sich. Unsere Hausroutine im Detailing101 sieht eine gründliche Reinigung alle 2 bis 3 Monate und eine Pflege zweimal im Jahr vor. Das Lederzentrum empfiehlt für neues Leder den Fahrersitz alle 3 Monate und das übrige Leder alle 6 bis 12 Monate. Beides läuft auf dasselbe Verhältnis hinaus: Die Sitzfläche, die du täglich benutzt, verbraucht den Schutz um ein Vielfaches schneller als die Rückbank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRichtig ist die A1 \"Leder-Pflege\" damit für Fahrzeuge mit pigmentiertem Glattleder oder Kunstleder, die noch intakt sind und es bleiben sollen. Besonders sinnvoll bei hellen Ausstattungen, wo der Indigo-Abrieb aus dunklen Jeans zuerst an der Fahrerwange auftaucht, und bei belüfteten oder beheizten Sitzen mit Perforation, wo viele Konkurrenzprodukte mit Sprühkopf ausscheiden.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFalsch ist sie für Fahrzeuge mit Alcantara-Ausstattung, für offenporiges Anilinleder und für alle, die eine einmal im Jahr aufgetragene Beschichtung erwarten. Wer sein Leder vorher sauber haben will, und das verlangt der Hersteller ausdrücklich, nimmt den \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-leder-reiniger-lederreiniger\"\u003eA1 \"Leder-Reiniger\"\u003c\/a\u003e als ersten Schritt. Pflege auf einer noch fettigen Deckschicht liegt auf dem Schmutz statt auf dem Leder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eZum Gebinde: 250 ml aus einer Kunststoff-Flasche, hergestellt bei der Dr. O.K. Wack Chemie in Baar-Ebenhausen. Weil das Tuch dosiert und nicht ein Sprühkopf, reicht die Menge weiter, als die Zahl vermuten lässt. Belegen lässt sich das nicht, denn eine Ergiebigkeitsangabe existiert weder auf der Flasche noch im Produktinformationsblatt, und geschätzte Zahlen schreiben wir nicht auf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDer wichtigste Hebel ist am Ende nicht die Menge, sondern der Termin. Dr. Wack nennt Hitze und UV-Einstrahlung als zwei der Treiber, die Leder spröde machen, und beide haben ihre Saison. Eine Pflege, die im Oktober aufgetragen wird, hat die Belastung, gegen die sie arbeitet, bereits hinter sich. Wir legen den Haupttermin deshalb ins Frühjahr, bevor der Innenraum hinter Glas das erste Mal richtig heiß wird, und ziehen den zweiten im Spätsommer nach.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707189809487,"sku":"D1-DRW-2510","price":16.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-leder-pflege-lederpflege_d41586a1-ba5b-496a-8da0-00a2f613e764.png?v=1787867280"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-leder-reiniger-lederreiniger","title":"A1 \"Leder-Reiniger\" Leather Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eDr. Wack A1 \"Leder-Reiniger\" holt den Fettfilm aus dem Autoleder\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWas ist der Dr. Wack A1 \"Leder-Reiniger\"? Ein wasserbasierter Reiniger mit unter 5 Prozent anionischen Tensiden für alle Glattlederarten und Kunstleder, ausdrücklich auch für gelochtes und perforiertes Leder. Nicht geeignet für Wildleder, Nubuk und Alcantara. Und keine Pflege: Geschmeidigkeit und Schutz bringt erst der zweite Schritt.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack A1 \"Leder-Reiniger\"\u003c\/strong\u003e ist ein wasserbasierter Lederreiniger von Dr. Wack für alle Glattlederarten und Kunstleder im Fahrzeug. Er löst den Film aus Hautfett, Handcreme und Textilabrieb, der sich auf der Lederoberfläche und in ihren Poren festsetzt, und nimmt ihn mit dem Tuch auf, statt ihn breiter zu verteilen. Die Deckschicht, die dem Leder seine Farbe gibt, bleibt dabei unangetastet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie Arbeit macht ein einziges Tensid: Isopropylamin-Dodecylbenzolsulfonat, ein anionisches Tensid mit einem wasserliebenden und einem fettliebenden Ende. Das fettliebende Ende hakt sich in den Schmutzfilm, das andere bleibt im Wasser hängen, und das Fett wird an einer Leine ins Wasser gezogen. Merkst du daran: Der Speck, den du sonst nur verschmierst, verlässt das Auto im Tuch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDamit das Tensid überhaupt zupacken kann, geht ein Glykolether voran und macht die Fettschicht wasserlöslich. Xanthan gibt der Flüssigkeit gerade so viel Körper, dass sie auf einer senkrechten Sitzwange nicht sofort abläuft und in die Naht kriecht. Praktisch: ein Durchgang statt drei, und keine dunklen Ränder entlang der Nähte.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDer Film, um den es geht, ist kein Staub. Hautfett, Handcreme, Sonnenmilch und Jeans-Abrieb lagern sich Schicht für Schicht ab, bis das Leder an Lenkrad und Sitzwange speckig glänzt. Dr. Wack beschreibt im Produktinformationsblatt, was dann passiert: Der Schmutz dringt in das Fasergeflecht ein, verstopft die Poren und beschleunigt die Alterung des Leders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSieben Bestandteile, angeführt von Wasser.\u003c\/strong\u003e Die Deklaration nach Detergenzienverordnung listet genau sieben Stoffe, der Tensidanteil liegt unter 5 Prozent. Kein Bleichmittel, keine Scheuerkörper, kein Lösemittelcocktail. Das ist der Grund, warum Dr. Wack das Produkt für helles Leder empfiehlt: Was einem hellen Sitz gefährlich wird, ist selten der Schmutz, sondern das Mittel dagegen.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFreigegeben für gelochtes und perforiertes Leder.\u003c\/strong\u003e Der Hersteller nennt perforiertes Leder ausdrücklich als Einsatzgebiet, und der Grund steht in der Anwendungsanleitung: Der Reiniger kommt aufs Tuch, nie als Strahl auf die Fläche, und die 250 ml Flasche hat folgerichtig keinen Sprühkopf. Bei belüfteten oder beheizten Nappa-Sitzen entscheidet genau das darüber, ob die Perforation sauber wird oder Flüssigkeit im Sitzschaum landet.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDrei Arbeitsschritte, keine Einwirkzeit.\u003c\/strong\u003e Tuch tränken, Fläche reinigen, mit einem zweiten feuchten Tuch rückstandsfrei nachwischen. Mehr steht nicht im Produktinformationsblatt. Es gibt keine Wartezeit, in der das Produkt auf dem Leder steht und antrocknen könnte, und aus den 250 ml wird nichts verschwendet: Die Dosierung übernimmt das Tuch.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePraxistipp von Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Wir sehen häufig, dass die Verträglichkeitsprobe, die Dr. Wack im Produktinformationsblatt verlangt, an der ungünstigsten Stelle landet: mitten auf der Sitzfläche des Fahrersitzes. Nimm stattdessen die Rückseite einer Rücksitzlehne, gleiche Lederpartie, gleiche Deckschicht, nur ohne Publikum. Urteile erst, wenn die Stelle trocken ist, denn feuchtes Leder ist immer dunkler. Bei unter 5 Prozent Tensidanteil bleibt die Probe auf pigmentiertem Leder fast immer unauffällig. Die Ausnahme heißt Anilinleder, und die willst du vorher finden.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDie Deckschicht wird sauber, das Leder darunter bleibt unberührt\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDer Reiniger geht auf das Tuch, nicht auf das Leder. Drei Schritte, keine Einwirkzeit, gearbeitet wird in Abschnitten von der Größe einer Handfläche.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNahezu jedes Autoleder ab Werk ist pigmentiertes Glattleder. Über der eigentlichen Haut liegt eine dünne, lackähnliche Deckschicht, die Farbe, Struktur und Abriebfestigkeit trägt, und der Schmutz sitzt auf und in dieser Schicht, nicht in der Haut darunter. Heißt für dich: Die Farbe kann beim Reinigen gar nicht ausbluten, weil sie in der Deckschicht steckt und nicht im Reinigungswasser landet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBei Kunstleder gilt dasselbe, nur ohne Haut darunter: Die Oberfläche ist von Haus aus ein geschlossener Kunststoff-Film, der Schmutz sitzt obenauf. Deshalb steht Kunstleder gleichberechtigt neben Glattleder auf der Flasche. In vielen Fahrzeugen sind Türverkleidung, Mittelarmlehne und Sitzwangen ohnehin Kunstleder, während nur die Sitzfläche echtes Leder ist. Ein Produkt für beides erspart dir das Sortieren.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDer dritte Schritt ist der, den fast alle weglassen. Nach dem Reinigen steht der gelöste Schmutz als Emulsion auf der Fläche, und wer den Wagen jetzt zuklappt, hat ihn nur umgelagert. Ein zweites, nur mit Wasser befeuchtetes Tuch nimmt ihn auf. Deshalb arbeitest du in kleinen Abschnitten: Was gelöst ist, muss runter, solange es feucht ist.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eZwei Bedingungen setzt der Hersteller: nicht in praller Sonne und nicht auf erhitzten Oberflächen arbeiten. Ein schwarzer Ledersitz hinter Glas wird an einem Sommernachmittag deutlich wärmer als die Luft draußen, und auf einer warmen Fläche verdunstet das Wasser aus dem Tuch schneller, als du nachwischen kannst. Dann bleibt genau der Rand stehen, den du entfernen wolltest. Schatten und offene Türen lösen das.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn der Naht läuft es anders als in der Fläche. Dort treffen zwei Lederkanten und ein Faden aufeinander, und die Vertiefung dazwischen fängt genau das auf, was du aus der Fläche gelöst hast. Wische deshalb nie quer über die Naht, sondern längs an ihr entlang, und nimm den Rand mit der trockenen Tuchseite auf. Sonst schiebst du den Schmutz in die Rille und siehst ihn dort in vier Wochen als dunkle Linie wieder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAm Lenkrad zeigt sich das zuerst, weil dort mehr Kontaktstunden pro Quadratzentimeter zusammenkommen als auf jeder anderen Lederfläche im Auto. Bei perforierten Sitzen führst du das Tuch flach über die Löcher, statt es hineinzudrücken, und wringst es vorher aus, bis es feucht ist und nicht mehr nass. Was sonst noch für diesen Arbeitsschritt taugt, steht in der Kategorie \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/lederreiniger\"\u003eLederreiniger\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-leder-reiniger-lederreiniger_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867856\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Dr. Wack A1 Leder-Reiniger auf dem Ledersitz, daneben nimmt ein Mikrofasertuch den Fettfilm ab\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAuf Alcantara und Wildleder gehört der Leder-Reiniger nicht\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlcantara sieht aus wie Wildleder, ist aber ein Mikrofaservlies aus Polyester. Ein Lederreiniger legt sich zwischen die Fasern, verklebt den Flor und hinterlässt harte Stellen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDieselbe Grenze gilt für echtes Wildleder, Nubuk und Velours. Diese Leder haben keine Deckschicht, ihre Oberfläche ist aufgerautes Fasergewebe, das Flüssigkeit aufsaugt und danach verfilzt. Dr. Wack schließt Wildleder im Produktinformationsblatt selbst aus. Wenn dein Sitz sich samtig anfühlt und beim Streichen die Farbe wechselt, ist der \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-polster-alcantara-reiniger-pro-textilreiniger\"\u003eA1 \"Polster-\/Alcantara Reiniger\" (Pro)\u003c\/a\u003e das richtige Produkt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAuseinanderhalten lassen sich die drei mit zwei Handgriffen. Streich mit dem Finger gegen den Strich: Ändert sich die Farbe und bleibt eine Spur stehen, hast du Alcantara oder Velours vor dir. Bleibt die Fläche gleich und fühlt sich glatt und leicht kühl an, ist es Glattleder, und Nappa ist davon nur die weiche, feinnarbige Variante, oft mit Perforation im Sitzspiegel. Im Zweifel entscheidet die Sitzwange, die ist fast immer das robustere Material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie zweite Grenze ist unauffälliger. Anilinleder ist durchgefärbt und trägt keine Deckschicht, es saugt wie Löschpapier und zeigt jeden Wasserrand. Man erkennt es daran, dass ein Wassertropfen sofort dunkel einzieht statt stehen zu bleiben. Genau deshalb verlangt der Hersteller vor jeder Anwendung eine Probe an verdeckter Stelle. Färbt das Tuch, hörst du auf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie dritte Grenze steckt in der Physik der Deckschicht. Der Reiniger arbeitet auf ihr, nicht darunter. Farbabrieb von dunklen Jeans liegt oben auf und geht mit, Dr. Wack nennt ihn selbst als Verschmutzungsart. Farbstoff, der über feine Risse in die Schicht gewandert ist, sitzt dagegen darunter, und dorthin kommt kein Reiniger. Was dort steckt, ist ein Fall für die Lederaufbereitung, nicht für eine Flasche.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUnd die letzte, die schon im Namen steht: Der A1 \"Leder-Reiniger\" reinigt, er pflegt nicht. Er gibt dem Leder weder Geschmeidigkeit noch Schutz zurück und stellt keine abgeriebene Sitzwange wieder her, auf der die Deckschicht bereits fehlt. Frisch gereinigtes Leder ist offen und ungeschützt. Was danach kommt, ist ein eigener Schritt mit einem eigenen Produkt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDie Testsiege holte das Duo, nicht der Reiniger allein\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eZwei GTÜ-Vergleichstests und ein Test in Auto Bild Sportscars gingen an Dr. Wack. Bewertet wurde jeweils das Gespann aus Reiniger und Pflege, nicht die einzelne Flasche.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDie Zahlen: 227 von 300 Punkten und Platz 1 von 12 Produkten bei der GTÜ im November 2013, 239 von 300 und Platz 1 von 10 im März 2014, dazu Platz 1 von 7 bei Auto Bild Sportscars. Fair bleibt die Einordnung nur mit zwei Fußnoten: Die Tests sind über zehn Jahre alt, und die Flasche trägt heute den Aufdruck Neue Power-Formel. Sie belegen die Linie, nicht die aktuelle Rezeptur.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGebaut wird beides bei Dr. O.K. Wack Chemie in Baar-Ebenhausen. Für dich ist der A1 \"Leder-Reiniger\" richtig, wenn du pigmentiertes Glattleder oder Kunstleder im Auto hast, gern helles, gern perforiertes, und wenn du bereit bist, den zweiten Schritt mitzugehen. Wer nur einmal im Jahr durchwischen will, nimmt besser gleich die \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-leder-pflege-lederpflege\"\u003eA1 \"Leder-Pflege\"\u003c\/a\u003e dazu, denn laut Hersteller ziehen deren Pflegekomponenten auf Jojobaöl-Basis erst nach der porentiefen Reinigung wirklich ein.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eZum Gebinde: 250 ml klingen wenig für eine komplette Lederausstattung. Sie reichen weiter, als die Zahl vermuten lässt, weil das Tuch dosiert und nicht ein Sprühkopf. Eine Ergiebigkeitsangabe macht Dr. Wack allerdings nicht, und wir rechnen dir keine vor, die wir nicht belegen können. Was wir sagen können: Ein Durchgang über Lenkrad, Vordersitze und Türverkleidungen kostet dich mehr Tuchseiten als Produkt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDer Prüfstein am Ende ist nicht das Leder, sondern das Tuch. Frisch gewischtes Leder sieht immer sauber aus, weil es feucht und dunkel ist, und das täuscht zuverlässig. Nimm eine frische Tuchseite und fahre über die eben behandelte Fläche: Kommt sie grau hoch, geben die Poren noch Schmutz ab, und du bist nicht fertig.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eErst wenn die Tuchseite sauber bleibt, ist die Fläche bereit für den zweiten Schritt. Das ist kein Detail, sondern der Grund, warum die Reihenfolge zählt: Pflege auf noch schmutzigem Leder schließt den Schmutz unter der neuen Schicht ein, statt ihn zu entfernen. Beim nächsten Durchgang arbeitest du dann gegen dein eigenes Produkt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-leder-reiniger-lederreiniger_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867860\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Nahaufnahme des A1 Leder-Reinigers auf der Leder-Mittelarmlehne beim Nachwischen mit feuchtem Tuch\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707190989135,"sku":"D1-DRW-2515","price":12.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-leder-reiniger-lederreiniger.png?v=1787867291"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur","title":"A1 \"Polish \u0026 Wax\" Polish","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eWith A1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\", polishing and waxing happen in one pass\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\"? A hand polish from Dr. Wack with a carnauba share that reduces fine scratches and grey haze and brings the protection along in the same wipe. It has no business on matte paint, matte wraps or scratches that go down to the base coat.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the combination polish in Dr. Wack's A1 range. There are two halves in one bottle: abrasives that level the weathered top layer of the clear coat, and carnauba wax that lays itself over it in the same wipe. Of the range's three all-over polishes, A1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\" is the only one whose catalogue text starts with the protection technology instead of the grain.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDoing it separately means touching every panel twice. First the polish, then the degreasing, then the wax. In real life, that second session regularly gets pushed back, and then a freshly corrected finish sits in the driveway without any protective layer at all. That's the worst in-between state there is: the old protection has been polished off, the new one never arrived.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAt Dr. Wack, the protective half goes by the name Carnauba Booster Technology — the same label the manufacturer gives its pure spray waxes. Carnauba is a hard plant wax that isn't just along for the ride here; it's the half that's in the product name. You'll notice it: the panel already shows beading after buffing off — round droplets instead of broad puddles — without you opening a second bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur_anwendung_3.jpg?v=1787867871\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Polish \u0026amp; Wax being worked into the bonnet of a black BMW with the sponge\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne pass instead of two.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack recommends two to three applications a year. If you do polish and wax separately, that means four to six rounds over the bodywork, not counting the degreasing in between. Here it stays at two to three afternoons, and the panel is finished once you've buffed off.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproved right up to gloss wraps.\u003c\/strong\u003e The approval list runs from metallic and solid paint through scratch-resistant and so-called nano clear coats to gloss wraps, from as-new to heavily weathered. Exactly two surfaces are excluded: matte paint and matte wraps. The wrap approval comes down to the solvent-free formula, which doesn't pull plasticisers out of the vinyl.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSame price per litre as its stronger sister.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polish \u0026amp; Wax and Speed Polish sit side by side on the shelf, 500 ml each, at an identical price per litre; ULTIMA comes in 250 ml and costs three times as much per litre. So between the first two you're not deciding on price, but on which half of the job should hit harder.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The polish's white colour is the price you pay for the single step. Whatever runs into a door shut, onto a rubber seal or into textured plastic dries pale there, and you can't just take it off with a degreaser as usual — the same wipe would strip the fresh wax off the panel too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo keep a good 1 cm away from every gap and every seal, and run the sponge parallel to them rather than across. Anything that still gets in, pick it out with a dry detailing brush while the film is still wet. Otherwise we see those pale marks still sitting there half a year later at the next session.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003ch3\u003eNo panel wipe between polish and wax here\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eWith Polish \u0026amp; Wax, there's no in-between step. You dose onto the sponge, work it in, let the film dry through and remove it. Then the panel is done.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe prep is still the same as with any polish. A single iron particle still sitting in the clear coat after washing drags a circular trail across half the panel under the foam. Wash, dry, decon — meaning take off fallout and tar — and only then does the bottle come into play.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe dose goes on the applicator sponge, not the panel; from there you work it in with even pressure in circles. Dr. Wack explicitly says to keep the sponge loaded and top up as needed. Then the film has to dry through completely before a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-das-tuch-premium-mikrofaser-mikrofasertuch\"\u003epremium microfibre cloth\u003c\/a\u003e goes over it — the catalogue describes wiping off the excess as easy as dusting.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis is where the real difference from the two-stage route lies. If you do it separately, you wipe the panel with isopropanol between polish and wax — the scene calls it a panel wipe — and then lay the protection onto bare clear coat. With a combo product that step necessarily disappears, because the wax goes down in the same wipe, onto the polish residue rather than bare material.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThat's not a flaw, it's the design. Think of a 2-in-1 wall paint that does primer and top coat in one go: you save the second coat, but each layer ends up thinner than if applied separately. In practice here: you're buying speed and simplicity and paying with a few percent of durability.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867863\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Dr. Wack A1 Polish \u0026amp; Wax being dosed onto the orange polishing sponge\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eHandling earns the points, the finish doesn't\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eAt auto motor und sport in 2015, the scorecard showed exactly 76 out of 100 points and 3rd place out of 7. The product properties scored 28 out of 30; protection and gloss stayed mid-table.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eFour years earlier the picture looked different. In 2012, Auto Bild ranked the product 1st against four competitors and gave it full stars; ACE Lenkrad gave it 80 out of 100 points that same spring, also first place out of five. Both times the praise was for the same thing: handling and effortless buffing.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003ePut together, the two findings add up to a clear verdict. Where handling counts, this bottle is up front. Where durability and gloss depth go up against specialised competition, it lands in the upper midfield. That exact trade-off is built into every combo product — and the scores date from before the reworked Booster formula, so read them as a direction, not as today's measurement.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTwo limits are hard. On matte paint and matte wraps, both halves work against what the surface is for: the matte look comes from a rough microstructure that scatters incoming light, and that's exactly what grain and wax level out. What's left are greasy-looking islands no cleaner will get back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is in the 2026 catalogue by being absent. For Speed Polish and ULTIMA, Dr. Wack states carnauba protection of up to 3 months; for Polish \u0026amp; Wax, there's no such figure. If you want to plan in a reliable durability, don't extrapolate one — top up after a few washes instead.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eA third topic keeps coming up in user reports. The manufacturer explicitly approves the product for machine use too, but the thin consistency doesn't make life easy there: even at low speed, the pad flings product off. If you're working by machine, dose onto the pad, set it down on the panel and only then switch on.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867867\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Polishing sponge spreading A1 Polish \u0026amp; Wax on black clear coat near a panel gap\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIf you want durability, split polish and wax again\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eA1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\" is built for the driver who works on the paint two or three times a year and wants peace and quiet afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe split is clear-cut. If you've got an afternoon, work by hand and want a refreshed, protected panel at the end, this bottle is the right one. If the last few percent of finish matter more to you than a second step, reach for the stronger \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-autopolitur\"\u003ecar polishes from Dr. Wack\u003c\/a\u003e and lay a separate wax over them afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eFor beginners, it's the friendliest of the four A1 polishes, because little can go wrong: no building up through several cutting stages, no pad changes, no choice between polish and protection. Reckon on a good two hours for a mid-size saloon the first time; by the third time it's an hour and a half. Taking longer at first is part of it and says nothing about you.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTwo groups are better off elsewhere. If you're running a ceramic coating, you'd polish it off — that calls for a maintenance shampoo, not an abrasive paste. And if you want the protection to last through winter, splitting the steps serves you better: Dr. Wack rates its pure spray waxes at up to 6 months, twice as long as the carnauba share of the sister polishes. For that case, a \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/autowachs\"\u003estandalone car wax\u003c\/a\u003e is the more honest tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBy the way, Polish \u0026amp; Wax comes in exactly one pack size and exactly one concentration. No diluting, no second size, no choice between hand bottle and canister. Pick up the data sheet and you'll find 500 ml, solvent-free and an approval list — there are no other dials to turn, and with this product that's part of the concept.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe point that's on no label: Polish \u0026amp; Wax and Speed Polish cost exactly the same per litre, come in 500 ml packs and carry the same approval list. Putting two bottles at the same price per litre side by side on the shelf isn't pricing policy in Baar-Ebenhausen, it's a formulation decision. One puts the weight on the grain, the other on the wax.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eSo you're not choosing between cheap and expensive, but between the half that removes and the half that protects. For most cars that get attention twice a year, it's the second one.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707193282895,"sku":"D1-DRW-2640","price":20.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur.png?v=1787867309"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-power-foam-shampoo-schaumshampoo","title":"A1 \"Power Foam Shampoo\" Snow Foam","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 Power Foam Shampoo lifts the dirt before swirls happen\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 Power Foam Shampoo? A foam shampoo from Dr. Wack for foam lance, pump sprayer and bucket, one step above neutral at pH 8, that leaves wax and sealant where they are. Not a degreaser ahead of a ceramic coating, and not a budget concentrate for a quick bucket wash.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 Power Foam Shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e is a foam shampoo from Dr. Wack that softens the dirt in the foam and carries it away before any tool touches the panel. The anionic surfactants drop the surface tension of the water far enough that the film creeps under the loose grit instead of over it. For you that means the dirt floats up and runs off with the foam, instead of working as grinding paste under your wash mitt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat is where most swirls come from — not from polishing, but from the first two minutes of the wash. A grain of sand still sitting on the paint when the mitt first lands drags its line the whole length of the pass. The foam pre-wash is the step that takes that grain off without moving it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack calls the technique behind it micro-mechanical foam: as the bubbles collapse they keep changing size, and that movement works the film out of the surface. Getting that balance right is lab work — a foam that clings to vertical metal for two to three minutes and still sits at pH 8. Dr. Wack developed it in Baar-Ebenhausen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the AUTO BILD test of 7 May 2026 that was enough to lead a field of eight snow foam shampoos: grade 1.2, 189 out of 200 points, 95 per cent cleaning performance on every test panel. What they checked was not only what comes off, but what stays — paint, the ABS plastic on the bumpers and the polycarbonate on the headlight covers. The one that came last in the same test attacked ABS. Here all three materials came through untouched.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne bottle, three tools.\u003c\/strong\u003e Foam lance on the pressure washer, pump foam sprayer, bucket — the dosing changes, the product does not. The cap holds 30 ml and doubles as your measure, so you need no second scale and no kitchen balance.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH 8 leaves your protection alone.\u003c\/strong\u003e The figure sits one step above the neutral point of 7 and a long way from the strongly alkaline pre-cleaners that strip wax and sealant along with the dirt. Dr. Wack states outright that the product is wax-safe. In practice: you foam over a three-month-old spray sealant without giving it up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproved all the way to matt paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e Three paint types, two wrap types and every paint condition from as-new to heavily weathered are on the approval list. On twelve-year-old weathered paint you run the same dosing as on the wrapped lease return.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We see the lance dosing carried straight over to the pump sprayer a lot — concentrate in, water on top, and the foam collapses on itself right away. Neat, the product belongs only in the reservoir of the foam lance, because the high-pressure jet dilutes it there for you. In the sprayer you mix 1.5 to 2 caps into 1 litre of water, so 45 to 60 ml. Below that the foam stops carrying the dirt, it just runs off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eThe foam lance gets it neat, the bucket gets three caps\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThree routes, three doses: neat into the reservoir of the foam lance, 1.5 to 2 caps per 1 litre in the pump sprayer, 2 to 3 caps per 5 litres in the bucket.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnce it is on, 2 to 3 minutes run. In that time the road film softens, the bubbles travel downwards and take the loose grit with them. Then you rinse thoroughly with clean water, top down, until no foam is left standing in the panel gaps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe order around the car matters more than most people think. Start low at the sills and wheel arches where the heavy dirt sits, and work your way up. The foam runs downwards anyway, so it lays itself over the dirtiest panels a second time. Rinsing goes the other way, from the top — otherwise dirty water tracks over panels you have already cleaned.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTwo conditions decide the result, and neither has anything to do with dosing. First the sun: if the foam dries on, what you have instead of a pre-wash is a layer of surfactant residue that wants washing off as well. Second the panel temperature — a car that has just run for two hours boils your dwell time away. Fifteen minutes cooling down in the shade is cheaper than a second pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you have no foam lance on a pressure washer, a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/ik-sprayers-pumpschaumsprueher-ik-foam-pro-2\"\u003epump foam sprayer\u003c\/a\u003e gets you to a comparable foam density. The difference is arm work: you pump it back up before each section of the car, but you need no power and no water connection. For a single car that is no drawback, for three back to back it is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing stands out about the AUTO BILD method: they rinsed off with no mechanical help at all, three minutes, nothing more. So the 95 per cent stands for pure chemistry on a test panel. On a real car with edges, swage lines and rubber seals, that is the groundwork, not the whole wash — the rest comes from the two-bucket wash, and on paint the heavy dirt has already come off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-power-foam-shampoo-schaumshampoo_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867880\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Bottle of A1 Power Foam Shampoo next to the foamed-up wash bucket while mixing up for the hand wash\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Power Foam Shampoo is not a budget concentrate\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the pump sprayer 45 to 60 ml go into a litre of water — so a one-litre bottle gives you around 16 to 22 fills, and no more.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe bucket works out much the same: 2 to 3 caps in 5 litres is roughly 1:60 to 1:80. For comparison, the A1 Speed Shampoo from the same line runs half a cap in 10 litres, so about 1:400. That is five to seven times the consumption for the same bucket.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat figure is no weakness in the formula, it is a design decision. A foam meant to stand on vertical metal for two to three minutes needs surfactant volume — otherwise it collapses before it works. If you own a foam lance or a sprayer, this is exactly the right grab. If you simply take a bucket and a mitt, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-speed-shampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003ehand wash concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e is the thriftier choice for the same job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit hides inside one of its own selling points. Because the shampoo leaves wax and sealant layers standing, it is no good as preparation before a ceramic coating. If you want to coat, you need a degreaser afterwards that takes off exactly what is deliberately left here. For a maintenance wash that is the advantage, for a coating build it is one more step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe third expectation comes from the internet: the product gets pushed as a way to skip the hand wash altogether. For a light layer of dust after a dry week, that holds. As soon as road film, bug splatter or brake dust are in play, no foam takes it all off touch-free — it reduces what the mitt then pushes across the panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnd the fourth: in that same AUTO BILD test a much cheaper concentrate took the value-for-money rating. Work out the price per litre of ready-to-use wash solution on its own and you will find cheaper — but you buy worse material compatibility or lower cleaning performance with it. Which of those matters more to you is your call, not the test field's.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eIf you own a foam lance, this is where you get the most out of it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe A1 Power Foam Shampoo pays off when a pressure washer with a foam lance or a pump sprayer is already standing there and the pre-wash is a fixed part of your routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho it is not for: if you wash your car four times a year with a bucket and a sponge, you are paying here for foam technology you will never use. And if you run through the automatic wash regularly and only wipe down at home, you need no pre-wash foam — a quick detailer is the better grab there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTwo bottle sizes are on offer, and they mean two different users. The 1,000 ml bottle is the working size for the season you are in. The 90 ml bottle holds exactly three caps — that is precisely one bucket wash, or one and a half to two sprayer fills. As a try-out size before you commit to a litre, that is more honest than any product description.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you are still choosing between foams, a look at the spread helps: in the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/snow-foam\"\u003eSnow Foam\u003c\/a\u003e category, strongly alkaline pre-cleaners sit next to pH-mild shampoos. The alkaline ones pull off more oil and more bugs, but they go at wax and sealant. This one is the other side of that trade-off — and therefore no substitute for a heavy-duty cleaner after winter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe tip that is in no set of instructions: dose the sprayer by the water temperature, not by the car. Cold water dissolves the surfactants more slowly, the foam comes out thinner and slides off faster — so you go to the full dose of 2 caps. In summer 1.5 is enough, and you win back the time that foam drying in the sun would otherwise cost you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate itself takes cold badly. The freezing point is 0 °C, and a single frosty night on an unheated shelf costs you the bottle. So cool and dry expressly does not mean cold with this product — and keep it apart from oxidising agents, which on the shelf simply means: not right next to bleach or a chlorine cleaner.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 Liter","offer_id":58584749080911,"sku":"D1-DRW-2765","price":20.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"90 ml","offer_id":58584739873103,"sku":"D1-DRW-2766","price":5.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-power-foam-shampoo-schaumshampoo.png?v=1787867329"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur","title":"A1 \"Speed Polish\" Car Polish","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"Speed Polish\" takes out the swirls and leaves carnauba behind\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"Speed Polish\"? An all-in-one car polish from Dr. Wack that removes fine scratches and leaves a layer of carnauba in the same pass. Not for matte paint, matte wraps or deep scratches that go down into the base coat.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Speed Polish\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a car polish from Dr. Wack that packs two steps into one bottle: abrasives take off the top, aged layer of clear coat, then carnauba wax settles over it. In the scene, a combo like that is called an all-in-one polish, AIO for short. The abrasives come from the same family used to finish precision mirrors for space research — high-purity aluminium oxide particles with a very tight grain size distribution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe trick is that these grains don't stay hard. They're so-called diminishing abrasives: under pressure and friction heat, they break at built-in fracture points into smaller and smaller fragments. Think of sandpaper that goes from 1500 to 5000 grit while you're working. For you, that means cut and finish are in the same product — no switching bottles or pads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe jump in gloss is measured, not claimed.\u003c\/strong\u003e In a series of reflectometer readings on weathered test paint, the gloss level rose from 71.0 to 88.6 in a single pass. Factory-fresh clear coat sits at 90 to 95. So with one bottle and one sponge, you get within a few points of a new car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe grey haze is measurably cut in half.\u003c\/strong\u003e The haze value — the diffuse scatter from thousands of micro-scratches — dropped from 42.4 to 22.5 in the same measurement. You'll notice it in the reflection: sharp edges again instead of a milky rim. On the pro scale, the cut sits at roughly 2.5 to 3.5 out of 10 — enough for swirls, not enough for deep scratches.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproved on gloss wraps and scratch-resistant clear coat too.\u003c\/strong\u003e Metallic, solid, so-called nano paints, highly cross-linked scratch-resistant clear coats and gloss wraps are all on the approval list — the last one is rare in this price bracket. According to Dr. Wack, the carnauba film protects for up to three months.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake isn't the amount, it's the area. If you polish the whole bonnet in one go, you'll find a dusty crust at the first corner while the last one is still wet and shiny. Work in sections of about half a square metre and start each new pass at the wet edge. Above 25 °C or in the sun, halve the sections again. What we see day-to-day, that's the difference between five and twenty minutes of buffing off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePressure does the polishing. Not dwell time.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUnlike a cleaner, it's not time doing the work here, it's your hand. Only pressure breaks the abrasive grains down and gets the polishing going in the first place.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDecon comes first, or the sponge just grinds the dirt in. Wash, dry, take off fallout and tar, and if the paint still feels gritty after washing, clay it. A single embedded iron particle under the sponge drags round pigtails into the clear coat. That damage is worse than any scratch you were trying to polish out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen shake the bottle and put the product on the dry \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-der-politur-schwamm-politur\"\u003epolishing sponge\u003c\/a\u003e, not on the paint. Work in small circles in a cross-hatch and keep the sponge well loaded, or the grains run without a lubricating film. Dr. Wack puts it unusually bluntly: the more pressure, the better the result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen let it flash off briefly — don't let it cure. Remove with microfibre, never with a cotton cloth or cotton wool; both push the wax residue around rather than picking it up. Flip the cloth often, or you'll spread on the second half what you picked up on the first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe sponge has more say in this than most people expect. A soft applicator mostly spreads wax; a medium-firm foam transfers the pressure all the way to the grains. If one pass leaves you disappointed, it's often not that you polished too little, but that you worked through a pad that's too soft.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA dual-action machine with a medium foam pad gets you further than working by hand, because the machine holds constant pressure for twenty minutes, which no arm can. By hand you replace speed with muscle, and the result slides a little from removed towards filled. What we see day-to-day, a compact car by hand uses about a third of the 500 ml bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867885\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Speed Polish being squeezed from the bottle onto the orange polishing sponge\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe carnauba fills what the grains don't remove\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePart of the visible scratch removal is masking. The wax settles into valleys the abrasives haven't levelled and takes away their shadow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCarnauba is the hardest known natural wax, with a melting point of 82 to 86 °C, and it refracts light unusually strongly. That's exactly what makes it a good filler: whatever it fills no longer casts a shadow, and the paint looks smoother than it would after abrasion alone. Day to day, that means a deep, warm gloss on dark colours — and up to three months of durability without sealing separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's not a con, it's how every all-in-one polish is built. You just need to know what happens when the wax goes. After a few washes with a strong alkaline pre-wash, the medium-depth scratch is back. That's where the harsh reviews you read about AIO products come from: the user expected removed and got filled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo limits are absolute. On matte paint and matte wraps, the grains polish spots smooth and the wax fills them — you end up with greasy-looking shiny patches that only a respray will fix. And chrome trim and rough, unpainted plastics stay off limits, because the white particles settle into the pores there and are hard to get back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe bottle says solvent-free, and that's more precise than it sounds. It means no aggressive aromatic solvents — the kind that pull plasticisers out of a wrap and leave it brittle and yellowed. There is a low-odour, de-aromatised carrier oil in there, otherwise the paste would dry out on the paint instantly and the grains would have no lubricating film. For you, that means you can work a gloss wrap on the roof exactly like the panel next to it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat gives you a clear split. If you want to take swirls, haze and car-wash scratches off the whole body and have the protection come along for the ride, Speed Polish is the right call. If one single deep scratch bothers you, or the result has to hold up after ten washes, that's a job for one of the more abrasive \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-a1-politur\"\u003epolishes in the A1 range\u003c\/a\u003e, which work without wax and don't bring any protection with them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur_anwendung_3.jpg?v=1787867893\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Polishing sponge with A1 Speed Polish on the black bonnet of a BMW\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolishing twice a year is plenty for this paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor A1 \"Speed Polish\", Dr. Wack recommends two to three passes a year. That's spot on for the driver who looks after their car but doesn't want to block out a two-stage afternoon.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe get questions about it in two waves: in April, once winter's grit and road salt have been washed off, and at the end of August, when the low evening sun makes the swirls visible in the first place. That matches search behaviour — interest in polishing a car peaks in August and is currently running about 18 percent above the yearly average.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo the 500 ml covers those two to three passes a year several times over. Who it's not the right pick for: anyone who wants everything at once, once a year — weathered bumper, cloudy headlight and deep scratches on the door edge. That takes individual steps and usually a machine. And anyone already running a ceramic coating — you'd polish it right off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat the maths works out for the normal case was confirmed by GTÜ in 2017, comparing nine car polishes: Speed Polish came out as test winner, specifically praised for its protection, the deep gloss with visibly refreshed colour and residue-free buffing. Exactly the three points where an AIO product usually cuts corners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to stretch the durability, follow up the buff-off with a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-speed-wax-plus-3-spruehwachs\"\u003espray wax\u003c\/a\u003e. This pure sealant has no abrasive content and extends protection from the three-month window towards six. It doesn't attack the freshly laid carnauba — it sits on top of it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd here's the bit no label tells you: getting from 71.0 to 88.6 gloss costs you an afternoon, a bottle and a sponge. The last few points up to new-car level at 90 to 95 cost a machine, three pads, two products and a whole day. Dr. Wack makes a product in Baar-Ebenhausen that nails the first part and honestly bows out of the second. That self-restraint is exactly what makes it the right tool for most cars — and the wrong one for paint fanatics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867889\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Bottle of A1 Speed Polish next to the polishing sponge after buffing off\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707197051215,"sku":"D1-DRW-2610","price":20.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur.png?v=1787867345"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-speed-shampoo-autoshampoo","title":"A1 \"Speed Shampoo\" Car Shampoo","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003e25 millilitres of A1 \"Speed Shampoo\" wash a whole car\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"Speed Shampoo\"? A pH-neutral car shampoo concentrate from Dr. Wack for the bucket hand wash, mixed at 25 millilitres to 10 litres of water, that leaves an existing wax layer in place. Not a pre-wash foam for the foam lance and no substitute for an alkaline pre-cleaner after winter.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Speed Shampoo\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a car shampoo concentrate from Dr. Wack that's mixed at a ratio of 1 to 400. 25 millilitres make 10 litres of wash solution, so a 500 millilitre bottle makes 200 litres. It's developed and produced in Baar-Ebenhausen, where the manufacturer has brought research, production and logistics together on one site since the new build in 2024.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe anionic surfactants lower the surface tension of the water far enough for a continuous slip layer to form between paint and wash mitt. In principle it's the same job the oil film does between piston and cylinder wall. For you that means the loose grit still sitting on the panel at the first pass rolls along in this film instead of pressing into the clear coat as an abrasive. The lever against swirls is the film, not the height of the suds in the bucket.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne dosing cap fills the bucket for a whole car.\u003c\/strong\u003e 25 millilitres to 10 litres of water is the manufacturer's figure, and even an estate doesn't need more. That turns a 500 millilitre bottle into 200 litres of wash solution, or 20 full buckets.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe neutral point protects what's already on the paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e The safety data sheet lists the pH as neutral; an independent re-measurement lands at 6.76, practically bang in the middle of the scale. You notice it because last month's spray sealant beads after the wash just like before.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMetallic, matte and wrap share the same dosing.\u003c\/strong\u003e Three paint types, matte and gloss wraps, plus nano and more scratch-resistant clear coats and the convertible roof are all on the same approval list. From new-car paint to a heavily weathered twelve-year-old, the 25 millilitres don't change.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e What we see a lot is the bucket being mixed by eye, a good glug until it foams. With the Speed Shampoo that quickly gets you to four times the intended 25 millilitres. Nothing gets any cleaner, because the cleaning power depends on the surfactants in the slip layer, not on the height of the suds. All you earn is a rinse that won't run clear and surfactant residue on rubber seals and trim. Measure once with the dosing cap and remember the fill line on the bucket.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSoaking and washing come out of the same bucket\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRinse off coarse dirt with water first, then let 25 millilitres of concentrate run into 10 litres of water and foam it up with a strong jet. Your wash solution is ready.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor heavy soiling, the instructions call for a second step with the same solution: foam the car thoroughly first, leave it briefly, then wash from top to bottom. The foam softens the traffic film so the mitt doesn't drag it dry across the panel. One bucket, two jobs, and the reason the active foam formula is in the name at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat formula is chemistry, not a slogan. Alongside the anionic surfactants the concentrate contains cocamidopropyl betaine, an amphoteric surfactant that's positively charged at one end and negatively at the other. It slots in between the harsher anionic molecules and stabilises the bubble walls. In practice: the foam stays on the bonnet while you wash the door, and you can see where you've already been.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBug residue and bird droppings are why the instructions describe the foaming step in the first place. Both are dried-on protein that can't be wiped away, only softened. Apply the wash solution generously to the front, mirrors and screen edge, give it a minute, then wipe off without pressure. Rub straight away and you push the hard residue across the clear coat like grit, and you'll still see that trail in low summer sun months later.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the two-bucket wash, put a second bucket of clean water next to it. After every pass the mitt goes in there and gets dragged over the grit guard at the bottom two or three times before it's allowed back into the wash solution. That keeps the grit you've lifted in the rinse bucket instead of in the shampoo. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-waschhandschuh-zubehoer\"\u003ewash mitt from the same line\u003c\/a\u003e releases the grit reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe order around the car saves you a second bucket change. Roof, glass and bonnet first, then the doors, and last of all sills, bumpers and wheel arches. That's where the brake dust sits, and it has no business in the mitt you're about to run over the bonnet again. Wash the lower section with a second mitt and the solution stays clean enough for a whole car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo conditions decide the result in the end, and both are on the product information sheet: don't work in the sun or on hot surfaces. The wash solution must not dry on. Then rinse top to bottom with a gentle stream and dry off the remaining water while the surface is still wet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-shampoo-autoshampoo_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867897\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Speed Shampoo being measured into the dosing cap over the wash bucket\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eA pH-neutral shampoo can't touch iron fallout and winter grime\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA pH-neutral shampoo dissolves road dirt, pollen and soot. Baked-in iron fallout, tar and the grey salt film after winter stay put, because the chemistry for that isn't there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's not a weakness of the formula, it's how it's built. A cleaner that breaks up grease and salt film works far above the neutral point and takes the wax layer along with the grease. The Speed Shampoo deliberately stays on the other side of that trade-off. If the grey film is sitting over the sills in March, an alkaline pre-cleaner goes first and the shampoo after.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is the kit. The dosing cap won't give you a carpet of foam for the foam lance, because at 1 to 400 there's simply too little surfactant in the reservoir to carry a foam that hangs vertically on the panel for two minutes. If a foam lance or pump sprayer is already on hand, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-power-foam-shampoo-schaumshampoo\"\u003efoam shampoo from the same line\u003c\/a\u003e is the right pick. If bucket and mitt are your tools, it's this one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third limit comes from the lab. In the car shampoo test by KÜS and AUTO BILD, issue 26 of 2022, the Speed Shampoo scored a grade of 1.2 and second place out of nine. Full marks of 50 out of 50 for cleaning power, 26 out of 30 for material compatibility. Among other things, polycarbonate was tested there over 48 hours at 80 degrees. So the only points it dropped weren't on cleanliness.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eTwenty buckets of wash solution in one 500 millilitre bottle\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA 500 millilitre bottle makes 200 litres of wash solution. At 10 litres per bucket, that's 20 washes without having to restock in between.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat makes the Speed Shampoo for anyone who washes their own car regularly and doesn't want to buy kit for it. If you grab the bucket every two to three weeks, one bottle lasts about a year. On a basement shelf that otherwise holds three half-used bottles, that's the tidier maths.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's less of a fit if you wash twice a year and want to get everything off in one go, because a maintenance shampoo isn't enough for built-up grime. And it brings no protection of its own. After the wash the paint is clean, nothing more. If you want beading, follow up with a spray wax or spray sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/autoshampoo\"\u003ecar shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e category, two designs sit side by side: maintenance shampoos like this one that leave the protective layer alone, and shampoos with wax or polymer content that add a bit of protection at every wash. The second sounds more convenient, but it builds thin layers that go patchy after a few washes. Keep it separate, wash here and protection there, and you stay in control of both.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe point that isn't on any bottle: the safety data sheet classifies the concentrate as clearly hazardous to water. For you that's less a chemistry question than a location question. The wash water belongs on a wash bay with an oil separator, not in the drain at the end of the drive. Many local authorities ban washing cars on your own property anyway; a look at the local bylaws takes five minutes. The hose at the wash bay also runs with a gentle stream, which is exactly what the final rinse wants.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707197968719,"sku":"D1-DRW-2760","price":12.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-shampoo-autoshampoo.png?v=1787867356"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-speed-wax-plus-3-spruehwachs","title":"A1 \"Speed Wax Plus 3\" Spray Wax","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eThe durability of A1 \"Speed Wax Plus 3\" is measured in washes\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"Speed Wax Plus 3\"? A liquid hard wax from Dr. Wack with a carnauba booster that goes on thin with the applicator sponge, flashes off on the paint and is then buffed off with a microfibre towel. Not approved for matte paint and matte wraps, and not meant for weathered paint without a polish first.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Speed Wax Plus 3\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a liquid hard wax from Dr. Wack that seals paint against the weather with a carnauba booster formula and a hydrophobic formula, meaning a recipe that keeps water at a distance. Nothing gets sprayed. The milky-white wax runs from the bottle straight onto an applicator sponge and from there goes on thin in small circular movements onto clean, dry paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCarnauba is the leaf wax of the Copernicia prunifera palm from north-east Brazil. The plant coats its own leaves with it so it doesn't lose water in the dry season, and with a melting point between 82 and 86 °C it's the hardest of all natural waxes. On paint it does the same job on a different surface. You notice it because rain sits in droplets instead of running off as a sheet, and those droplets dry without a limescale ring.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the wax doesn't do belongs in the same place. It removes nothing. A wax won't make dull paint shine and won't take out scratches; that's how AUTO ZEITUNG classifies it in its wax guide, and Dr. Wack writes the same in the product details: for use on as-new paint or paint refinished with polish. The gloss you see afterwards was already in the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe protection survives washes, not just weeks.\u003c\/strong\u003e AUTO BILD and the testing organisation KÜS pitted ten liquid hard waxes against each other on weathered test panels and put up to ten washes over them. The Speed Wax Plus 3 took first place with 256 out of 295 points and was the only product in the field rated highly recommended. Even after the tenth wash, the beading was still measurable.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe film tells you when it's done.\u003c\/strong\u003e Between the last pass with the sponge and the first with the towel, in practice there are ten to fifteen minutes. Then you wipe off the excess, and Dr. Wack compares that step to dusting. That's why the wax rarely fights you, even on the first attempt.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo sizes, one clear calculation.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 500 ml bottle is sized for whole cars, the 250 ml bottle for single panels and the first go. Per litre the big bottle costs about a third less. Dr. Wack doesn't say how many millilitres a car takes, but at two or three applications a year you'll rarely rebuy either size.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We often get asked how long the wax has to sit before the towel can go on. Dr. Wack doesn't give a time for it, but a state: completely dry. Checking takes two seconds. Draw a line through the film with your finger. If it flows back together behind your finger, it needs longer. If the line stays as a clean trace, the towel can go on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFlashing off takes ten to fifteen minutes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Speed Wax Plus 3 goes on thin over clean, dry paint, flashes off there completely and only then gets buffed off with a microfibre towel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore that comes the wash. Dr. Wack recommends its own Speed Shampoo for it and, if the paint is no longer as new, a pass with a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur\"\u003ehand polish with wax content\u003c\/a\u003e. That order isn't a recommendation, it's the condition. Wax seals whatever state it finds. On paint with swirls, meaning the fine circular wash scratches, you seal in swirls.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhile applying, keep the sponge well loaded with product and top up before it runs dry. Work in the shade and on cool paint, not in blazing sun. Dr. Wack also recommends doing whole body panels in one go. The reason is the lap mark. Where a flashed-off edge meets fresh wax, the seam shows up later in raking light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-der-wax-schwamm-wachs\"\u003eapplicator sponge\u003c\/a\u003e for this wax measures 150 by 80 by 35 millimetres and was developed precisely for it. It isn't included with the single bottles; it sits alongside as an accessory. When you're done, wash it out thoroughly. Otherwise the residue cures in the foam and next time you run a hard edge over the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 10 to 15 minutes are a guide, not a timer. At 12 °C in October the film takes longer; on a warm summer evening it's quicker. So you're better off working by panel than by the clock. As soon as the last panel is done, check the first. Usually it's ready right then, and you follow with the towel in the same order you applied.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-wax-plus-3-spruehwachs_anwendung.png?v=1787867901\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Speed Wax Plus 3 being dosed from the bottle onto the applicator sponge\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Speed Wax only lasts six months if you rarely wash\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe six months on the label are a ceiling, not a promise. They stand or fall with a figure that isn't on any bottle: the number of washes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe lab test supplies the scale. KÜS recorded the beading with a contact angle meter, the device that measures the angle of a water droplet to the paint surface. The steeper the droplet stands, the less water stays behind. After ten washes that angle was still clearly measurable. Half the test field failed precisely on long-term protection and wash resistance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTen washes is nine months for one person and ten weeks for another. User reports in car care forums give a rough breakdown. Wash every six to eight weeks and you'll get the full six months. Once a month gives four to five; once or twice a week still two to three. One real-world test found instant beading after three months, but a surface that was no longer quite as slick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe hard limit is in the approval list. It names metallic, solid and nano paints, more scratch-resistant paints and gloss wraps. Matte paint and matte wraps aren't on it, because a product that builds deep gloss has no business on a matte surface. And if your paint is dull or carries swirls, the Speed Wax Plus 3 is the wrong next step. Then you're sealing the current state for half a year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-wax-plus-3-spruehwachs_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867905\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Bottle of A1 Speed Wax Plus 3 on the microfibre towel, beading on the wet bonnet\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eA wax for the appointment, not for every wash\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Speed Wax Plus 3 is for anyone who sets aside an hour two or three times a year and wants peace of mind until the next season in return.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you'd rather build protection into every wash, a spray wax that's spread with the towel and taken straight off serves you better. That's not a worse way, just a different rhythm: short application often versus longer application rarely. Both sit side by side in the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-a1-versiegelung\"\u003esealants and spray waxes of the A1 line\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack's Speed series is made for the hand, not the machine. If you want to work holograms out of weathered paint, you need a polishing system in cut stages and then a sealant that lasts for years. The Speed Wax Plus 3 deliberately sits below that. It keeps good paint good for half a year, and that one job it does measurably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith the bottle size, the area decides. The 500 ml is the supply for one car over several years, the 250 ml the entry point or the reserve for bonnet and roof. Store it frost-free, because a solvent-free wax emulsion separates once it's frozen through and can't be brought back. The wax is developed and produced in Baar-Ebenhausen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat leaves the pacemaker no label mentions. When it's time to re-wax isn't told by the calendar but by the water. As long as rain stands in tall beads, the layer is working. As soon as it lies flat on the paint instead of forming beads, it's done, whether six weeks or six months have passed since. Watch for that rather than the date, and you'll wax exactly as often as your paint needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-wax-plus-3-spruehwachs_anwendung_4.jpg?v=1787867915\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Applicator sponge spreading A1 Speed Wax Plus 3 on the black bonnet\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707198787919,"sku":"D1-DRW-2630","price":20.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707198820687,"sku":"D1-DRW-2635","price":18.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-wax-plus-3-spruehwachs.png?v=1787867366"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-ultima-show-und-shine-polish-politur","title":"A1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026 Shine Polish\" Polish","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish\" takes out holograms without putting new ones in\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish\"? The strongest hand polish in Dr. Wack's A1 range, built on synthetic abrasives from wafer manufacturing, with carnauba protection for up to three months. Not for matte paint, matte wraps, chrome-plated plastic parts or anything that goes deeper than the clear coat.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a polish from Dr. Wack in Baar-Ebenhausen that removes fine scratches and weathered paint instead of filling them. The same abrasives are otherwise used to level silicon wafers in microchip production. There, the result isn't decided by how hard a grain is, but by how identical it is to the grain next to it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's exactly what sets it apart from an ordinary polish. Size, shape and hardness are identical across the whole batch, and as you work, the grains break down evenly into the nano range. In a normal compound the grain size varies, and the few oversized outliers are what put in the new fine scratches you then have to cover up again. For you, that means what you see after buffing off is the actual result, not a layer sitting on top of it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA grain that doesn't go rogue.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack uses synthetic abrasives like the ones used to polish wafers in microchip manufacturing, and explicitly targets holograms and car-wash scratches without re-marring. The cutting stage finishes down to a gloss on its own, so you don't switch to a second, finer compound. Anything deeper than a finishing polish removes stays out of scope — the clear coat on top is only 30 to 60 microns thick.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e3rd place out of nine, measured after degreasing.\u003c\/strong\u003e In 2020, KÜS and AUTO BILD tested nine premium polishes on black panels, three quarters of the surface artificially weathered down to a gloss level of 60, the untreated quarter at 90. Application was five grams of product, 1.5 kilograms of pressure and five passes in a cross-hatch. Before the final rating, the lab degreased with isopropanol so waxes couldn't hide any scratches. The result: 238 out of 300 points.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree months of protection instead of bare paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e In the same step, carnauba wax lays a film on the freshly polished paint, which Dr. Wack rates at up to three months. The manufacturer recommends two to three applications a year, and the 250 ml covers that several times over. Day to day, that means you don't have to seal the same afternoon just so the panel isn't left unprotected.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Don't judge the result in daylight. Diffuse light irons out holograms and haze visually — exactly the defects you're polishing against. Grab an LED spot light, hold it low across the panel and leave a palm-sized patch unpolished next to it. Only that comparison tells you whether the first pass was enough. We often see a second pass even though the first one had already done the job, and every pass costs 0.5 to 5 microns of clear coat that you'll never get back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWith ULTIMA, the whole door is one section\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe instructions call for entire body panels in one go, and that's not about convenience — it follows directly from how this polish works.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWashing comes first. Unwashed paint carries loose grit, and it travels under the sponge across the whole panel. If the paint still feels gritty after drying, or there are little brown specks in the white, take the fallout off first. Then work in the shade on a cool panel, never on hot paint in the sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 250 ml bottle comes with a microfibre cloth; the sponge isn't included. Apply to the dry \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-der-politur-schwamm-politur\"\u003epolishing sponge\u003c\/a\u003e, not the paint, and keep the sponge loaded for the whole section. If it runs dry, the grain loses its lubricating film and each pass turns into friction with no effect. On pressure, the manufacturer is blunter than most: more pressure going in, better result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen comes the step that sets this polish apart from most. The film has to dry completely before the cloth goes over it, and according to Dr. Wack it then comes off as easily as dusting. Since there's no wet edge that can flash off too early, your working unit isn't half a square metre but the whole panel: door, wing, bonnet in one go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the scene, a polish that's meant to dry on raises a few eyebrows. That objection mixes up two different things. The cutting happens under your hand, while you're rubbing; the drying time afterwards just makes removal easy. Which of the two did the work on your car is answered by the spot-light test above, on your own paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-ultima-show-und-shine-polish-politur_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867924\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish being worked into the black bonnet next to the headlight\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhat ULTIMA doesn't remove, a machine won't either\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith this polish, a machine polisher is a speed tool, not a power tool. It covers more area per hour, but it won't take a single extra micron out of the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ceiling is in the grain, not in your arm. Depending on technique, a finishing polish removes around 0.5 to 5 microns of clear coat, a cutting compound on a rotary 3 to 8. ULTIMA belongs in the first group, even applied by machine. Anything deeper stays put and needs its own cutting step, a suitable pad and, if in doubt, a paint depth gauge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the machine, one rule applies that barely matters by hand: work controlled, small sections, no heat build-up. Heat under the pad is the fastest route to exactly the holograms you're polishing against. On dark metallic, a rotary spinning too fast inflicts the damage the product is then supposed to take away again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo surfaces are off limits, full stop. On matte paint and matte wraps, grain and wax make the surface glossy, and there that's a write-off, not a work in progress. Chrome-plated plastic parts and badges are also left out. If polish ends up in rough, unpainted plastic, get it back out with a trim dressing before it dries white in there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat leaves the forum accusation that whatever disappears here is just filled and comes back after a few washes. Worth taking seriously, because there's carnauba in the product. The lab provides the solid counter-check: KÜS degreases the panels before the final rating to strip off waxes and silicones, and after that the result still landed in 3rd place out of nine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat gives you a clear split. If the paint is basically sound and it's holograms, haze and car-wash scratches that bug you, ULTIMA is the tool. If the whole car is dull and the price per litre matters, reach for the 500 ml all-over polish from the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-a1-politur\"\u003eA1 range of polishes and paint cleaners\u003c\/a\u003e. And if the scratch goes through the clear coat, neither will help — that's a job for the body shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDark paint is where ULTIMA shows what it's built for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHolograms and haze, the milky film over the reflection, show up first on black and dark metallic — and that's exactly where removed and covered-up go their separate ways.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's no coincidence that KÜS tests on black panels. Three quarters of the surface had been weathered down to a gloss level of 60, while the untreated quarter sat at 90 — a contrast you simply don't see on light silver. If you drive a dark car, though, you see it every Sunday on the driveway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat makes \u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish\"\u003c\/strong\u003e the product for paint that's basically fine but missing the last few percent: after a machine session that left holograms in direct light, before a sale, before a meet, after a winter of weekly car washes. If you want to rescue a completely weathered car once a year, though, you need a dedicated cutting step and a machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePer litre, the 250 ml costs a good three times as much as the 500 ml all-over polish from the same range. What you get for that isn't more product, it's a different grain. Dr. Wack recommends two to three passes a year, and the bottle covers that several times over — as long as you remove it with a deep-pile \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-das-tuch-premium-mikrofaser-mikrofasertuch\"\u003epremium microfibre cloth\u003c\/a\u003e and don't top up, because a saturated cloth won't pick anything up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd here's the point no label does the maths on: your clear coat is a bank account you can only withdraw from. There are 30 to 60 microns in it, and if you want to keep its protection, you shouldn't take more than 10 to 15 of them off over the car's entire life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt 0.5 to 5 microns per pass, that's around thirty polishes or three, depending on how aggressive you go. So the interesting question isn't which polish removes the most, but which removes the least and still delivers. That's exactly the logic behind the uniform grains: a grain that doesn't go rogue doesn't force you to level the same panel a second time.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707199279439,"sku":"D1-DRW-2660","price":30.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-ultima-show-und-shine-polish-politur.png?v=1787867381"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-waschhandschuh-zubehoer","title":"A1 \"Waschhandschuh\" Wash mitt (microfibre)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eThe Dr. Wack A1 wash mitt keeps grit in the pile and away from the paint\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the Dr. Wack A1 \"Waschhandschuh\"? A microfibre mitt with deep pile on both sides and a weight of 800 g\/m² that holds over 500 ml of wash solution and locks loosened grit deep in the fibre. Not meant for wheels, wheel arches or dried-on heavy dirt without a pre-wash.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe Dr. Wack A1 wash mitt\u003c\/strong\u003e is a wash mitt made of 100 % polyester microfibre by Dr. O.K. Wack Chemie in Baar-Ebenhausen, with long pile on both sides. The weight of 800 g\/m² tells you how much fibre mass sits between your hand and the paint. The deeper that pile, the further a grain of road grit sinks away from the surface instead of being pushed across it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's the whole mechanism of a gentle hand wash. The pile works like a gravel bed: whatever falls in travels down and stays there until you rinse the mitt out. A flat, thinly woven mitt doesn't have that escape route; the grain stays on top and rides along over the clear coat on the next pass. For you that means the swirls you see in the raking light of an LED work lamp are born in exactly that second.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTest winner in the AUTO BILD wash mitt test with a grade of 1.4.\u003c\/strong\u003e Nine microfibre mitts faced the same test panel. Scratching was measured with an 800-gram load over quartz sand and soapy water, water uptake after 60 seconds of dunking and 5 seconds of dripping. The A1 came out with the fewest scratches, along with the best cleaning performance and particularly good glide. Auto Zeitung had already rated it highly recommended in issue 8\/2025.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e800 g\/m² weight and over 500 ml uptake.\u003c\/strong\u003e The weight is the fibre mass per square metre, so at 800 g\/m² there's a deep fibre cushion between grain and clear coat. The more than 500 millilitres of wash solution in the mitt aren't a comfort figure, they're the slip layer the pile runs on. In practice you notice it because a bonnet goes through in one run without you having to re-dunk halfway.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAbout 200 wash cycles, that's nearly eight years.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack rates the mitt for about 200 machine washes; the English data sheet even says 300. If you wash your car every two weeks and put the mitt through the machine each time, 200 cycles get you nearly eight years of use. That calculation hinges on a single condition: 40 °C and no fabric softener.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e What we see day-to-day is that sharing a machine load with the drying towel is the mistake that ages wash mitts fastest. A1 \"DAS TUCH\" is designed for 60 °C and about 300 cycles, the wash mitt for 40 °C and about 200.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003eWash both at 60 °C and the pile tips of the mitt fuse together, permanently. It takes up less water, glides worse, and the safety margin shrinks on exactly the part that touches the paint. Wash the mitt separately at 40 °C, without fabric softener, with microfibre detergent. And rinse it out right after the car wash while it's still wet, before it dries on in the laundry basket.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe second bucket prevents more swirls than the mitt\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWithout a second bucket, you wash the grit from the first pass into the second. The mitt can only work as cleanly as the water it lands in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe two-bucket wash needs two buckets and a fixed rhythm. One gets clean water, the other the shampoo solution. For that, Dr. Wack names the A1 Speed Shampoo or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-power-foam-shampoo-schaumshampoo\"\u003efoam shampoo for the pre-wash\u003c\/a\u003e on the data sheet. The mitt soaks itself full in the shampoo bucket, washes one panel, and then goes into the clean-water bucket first. Only then back into the shampoo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore the first hand contact, the loose grit has to come off. Rinse off heavy dirt with plenty of water; with stubborn traffic film, lay down foam and let it dwell. The car stands in the shade, the panels have cooled down. On warm panels the shampoo solution dries on, and you're working on a half-dry film instead of a slip layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWash from top to bottom in straight, overlapping passes. Circular movements spread a picked-up grain in a circle, and that circle later shows up as a swirl. Sills, bumpers and the bottom ten centimetres come last; that's where the grit sits. The mitt has deep pile on both sides, so instead of carrying on with a loaded side, you flip it over.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe often get questions from people who see more swirls in raking light after their first hand wash than before. In almost every one of those cases the second bucket was missing, and the mitt went back into the same grey soup after every panel. The tool wasn't the problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBrake dust won't come out of the pile and scratches the paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBrake dust is made of iron particles with sharp edges. Whatever gets caught in the pile comes back out on the next pass over the door.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the Dr. Wack A1 wash mitt the manufacturer gives a broad approval: paint in gloss and matte, wraps in gloss and matte, plastic, metal, glass, polycarbonate and tyres. Material-wise that's correct. We still keep wheels and paint apart, and the reason isn't the material but what the pile stores. Wheels deserve their own tool on the shelf, and that's exactly why \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-waschhandschuh\"\u003ewash mitts and sponges\u003c\/a\u003e come in more than one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe mitt also doesn't replace a pre-wash. A car that's stood under trees for three weeks carries a film that needs dissolving chemically before any textile goes over it. And a mitt that has once been dropped on the driveway is done: fine chippings lodge so deep in the pile that no amount of rinsing gets them all out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn construction, an if-then call pays off. If you're washing dark, soft paint without a coating, long deep pile is the safe choice, because the fibre is deep enough to swallow grit completely. If you're washing a heavily soiled estate in winter and want more mechanical bite, chenille mitts with their noodles attack the film better, but hold less cushion between grain and clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe A1 is deliberately built on the cushion side. That's why it feels less fluffy dry than some of the competition, and the AUTO BILD test points that out explicitly. Wet, the picture flips: on the test panel it glides best and cleans hardest. Judge the mitt by feeling it on the shelf and you're judging it in the wrong state.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOnly the right wash gets you 200 wash cycles\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA mitt that's matted after twenty washes costs more than any expensive mitt on the shelf. The maths runs through the care, not the purchase price.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack says about 200 machine washes, the English data sheet even 300. At one wash every two weeks, 200 cycles is nearly eight years. The conditions for that are on the data sheet and they're brief: 40 °C max, no fabric softener, no bleach, wash separately or in a fine-mesh laundry bag, plus microfibre detergent and the dryer on low only.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFabric softener is the most expensive mistake. It wraps every fibre in a film of cationic surfactants, a layer that switches off exactly what you bought the mitt for. The capillary spaces between the fibres clog up and uptake collapses. You notice it because the mitt no longer soaks itself full and pushes the grit instead of swallowing it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Dr. Wack A1 wash mitt is made for anyone who washes their own car and wants to see crisp paint for longer than one season. 18 by 29 centimetres, 113 grams, a non-slip elastic cuff and a sewn-in centre seam that makes the mitt sit the same for left- and right-handers. If you only ever use the automatic car wash, you don't need it. And if you don't have a second bucket, even the best mitt only gets you half the result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAt the end of the wash, drying has its say too. Standing water leaves limescale rings, and a harsh towel drags the same marks across freshly washed paint as a tired mitt. The same line has the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-das-tuch-premium-mikrofaser-mikrofasertuch\"\u003epremium microfibre towel\u003c\/a\u003e for that, at 40 by 40 centimetres with ultrasonically cut edges. The first time, all that rinsing in between feels like wasted time. It's the part of the job that prevents the scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe mitt won't tell you when it's finished, and that's why plenty of people wash with dead pile for years. The test takes five seconds and works on the dry mitt: run it once over the back of your hand. As long as the fibre catches slightly and tugs at your skin, the pile tips are open. If it feels smooth and slippery, they've fused, and from then on it no longer carries grit away, it pushes it. No manufacturer prints that check on the packaging.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"1 pc.","offer_id":54707199476047,"sku":"D1-DRW-8181","price":15.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-waschhandschuh-zubehoer.png?v=1787867391"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-cw1-100-bio-scheiben-reiniger-scheibenreiniger","title":"CW1:100 \"BIO\" screenwash","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eClear view, made mostly from renewable raw materials\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eCW1:100 BIO screenwash is a highly concentrated screenwash made from more than 99 percent natural raw materials. It breaks down glare and smear film for a safe view and is gentle on materials. It's not a ready-to-use cleaner and not an antifreeze — you dilute it before filling.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCW1:100 BIO screenwash\u003c\/strong\u003e is a screenwash concentrate made from more than 99 percent natural and renewable raw materials. You mix it with water and pour it into the washer fluid reservoir. It clears glare and smear film from the windscreen and contains no animal-derived ingredients and no unnecessary synthetic fragrances or dyes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eQuick work of glare and smear film.\u003c\/strong\u003e The concentrate breaks down the film that dazzles you in low sun or against the light in no time. That gets you a clear, low-streak windscreen again — and a safe view in traffic.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGoes a long way as a high concentrate.\u003c\/strong\u003e Because you use it diluted, one bottle covers lots of fills. According to the manufacturer, that saves a lot of packaging and transport compared with ready-mixed screenwash in 5 litre canisters.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGentle on materials, with anti-limescale formula.\u003c\/strong\u003e Mild ingredients make it well tolerated and extend the life of your wiper blades. The anti-limescale formula prevents deposits in the reservoir and clogged jets, even with hard water.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake is pouring the concentrate in neat or under-dosed and then wondering about the streaks. Stick to the mixing ratio on the bottle, and if the reservoir is old and grubby, flush it once with clean water before refilling. That way you actually get the cleaning power you paid for.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMix the concentrate with water at the stated ratio and pour the finished solution into the washer fluid reservoir. Thanks to the anti-limescale formula, you can use hard tap water too, without worrying about deposits or clogged jets.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn winter, combine the concentrate with an antifreeze. The built-in cleaning booster is made for exactly that and boosts the effect in antifreeze screenwash mixes. The product is also suitable for plastic headlight lenses and fan jets.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLimits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCW1:100 BIO screenwash is a concentrate, not a ready-to-use product. Without diluting and dosing it properly, you won't get its full performance. It's also not an antifreeze on its own: for winter use, you have to combine it with a suitable antifreeze. For heavily crusted glass or bug remains that have already dried on, cleaning by hand first still makes sense.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWho it's for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate suits drivers who care about a clear view while keeping packaging, transport and synthetic additives to a minimum. If you'd rather buy concentrates that go a long way than ready-mixed canisters anyway, and you pay attention to material compatibility, this is the one for you.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"CW1:100\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707199869263,"sku":"D1-DRW-1760","price":15.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"40 ml","offer_id":58086101221711,"sku":"D1-DRW-1761","price":4.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-cw1-100-bio-scheiben-reiniger-scheibenreiniger.png?v=1787867402"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-cw1-100-classic-scheibenreiniger-scheibenreiniger","title":"CW1:100 \"Classic\" screenwash","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA clear view from one small bottle\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eCW1:100 Classic is a high-yield screenwash concentrate from Dr. Wack. Mixed at 1:200, 250 ml make up to 50 litres of cleaning fluid that clears glare and smear film. It isn't a ready-to-use screenwash and contains no antifreeze.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCW1:100 Classic\u003c\/strong\u003e is a highly dilutable cleaning concentrate for the windscreen washer system. You mix it with water and pour it into the reservoir, where it lifts bug residue, dust and the typical glare film off the windscreen. On paper, the compact 250 ml bottle replaces about 20 bottles of ready-to-use screenwash, saving space and packaging.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGoes a long way.\u003c\/strong\u003e Mixed at 1:200, 250 ml of concentrate make up to 50 litres of cleaning fluid. One bottle lasts for plenty of top-ups, and you don't have to lug heavy jerry cans around in the car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTackles glare and smear film.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cleaner dissolves the thin film of exhaust fumes, pollen and road dust that dazzles you against the light. The screen comes up clear again instead of just getting wet for a moment and smearing all over again.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eKind to materials.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula is suitable for plastic headlight lenses and fan jets. It doesn't attack these parts and can extend the life of your wiper rubbers.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake is overdosing in the hope of more cleaning power. Too much concentrate leaves streaks and takes several wipes before the screen is clear again. Stick to 1:200 and only go slightly stronger when there's visibly heavy glare film; you'll get a cleaner result and the bottle lasts longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMix the concentrate with water at 1:200 and pour it into the washer reservoir; then every press of the washer cleans screen and headlights in one go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor normal dosing, that's about 1.25 ml of concentrate to 250 ml of water. With stubborn glare film you can go slightly stronger. After the first fill, give the jets a quick flush so the film lifts evenly and the wipers glide cleanly from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWe've mixed the concentrate at our Nordhorn warehouse for hard-worked windscreens. In practice it pays to keep a small pre-mixed reserve in the boot rather than fiddling with neat concentrate on the road.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLimits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCW1:100 Classic is a pure cleaning concentrate and contains no antifreeze. In winter you need to add an antifreeze as well, otherwise the system can freeze. Nor does it replace a thorough hand or glass clean for stuck-on deposits like baked-on bugs or tar; for those, you're better off cleaning the screen directly with a cloth and a suitable glass cleaner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWho it's for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate suits anyone who wants to top up their screenwash economically, compactly and gently on materials, from everyday drivers to thorough DIY detailers. If a clear view without glare film matters to you and you'd rather not haul heavy ready-mix bottles, CW1:100 Classic is spot on.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"CW1:100\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707200557391,"sku":"D1-DRW-1710","price":12.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"25ml","offer_id":54707200590159,"sku":"D1-DRW-1720","price":3.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 Liter","offer_id":54707200622927,"sku":"D1-DRW-1730","price":103.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-cw1-100-classic-scheibenreiniger-scheibenreiniger.png?v=1787867417"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-cw1-100-insekten-entferner-gel-insektenentferner","title":"CW1:100 \"Insect Remover Gel\" insect remover","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eThe CW1:100 \"Insect Remover Gel\" lifts baked-on bugs without scrubbing\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the CW1:100 \"Insect Remover Gel\"? A ready-to-use bug remover in gel form for the windscreen, headlights and the whole front end of a car. It stays put on vertical surfaces instead of running off. Not meant for the washer fluid, not for direct sun or hot surfaces, and not for bare aluminium without a spot test.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCW1:100 \"Insect Remover Gel\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a ready-to-use bug remover from Dr. Wack that loosens dried-on bug residue before you rinse it off. Bug residue is protein: on impact the body bursts, the water in it evaporates, and what's left is a protein layer that keys into the surface as it dries. That bond is exactly what the gel goes after.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDenaturing is what happens to the protein here: it loses its folded shape and tangles into a hard, water-insoluble layer. The same thing happens to a fried egg, only this time on your clear coat. And just like with the fried egg: the hotter the surface and the longer it sits, the harder the residue sticks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnionic surfactants and phosphates undo exactly that bond. They swell the tangled proteins and work their way between residue and surface until the grip lets go. You notice it because what looked glued on before runs off with the water when you rinse, without a towel having to go over it. And on a front covered in hard residue, rubbing is exactly the step that puts the swirls in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStill, the real trick isn't the chemistry, it's the consistency. A liquid cleaner runs down a raked windscreen in seconds and ends up in the scuttle panel instead of on the spot. The gel stays put like a damp compress: where it belongs, for as long as the reaction needs. In practice that means there's any dwell time at all on glass and bumpers in the first place.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCling time on the vertical.\u003c\/strong\u003e AUTO ZEITUNG tested all nine candidates in its bug remover test with a uniform 3 minutes of dwell time. Three minutes on an upright windscreen isn't a given, it's a material property. The gel has it, and that's exactly what took it to second place out of nine.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne bottle for seven parts.\u003c\/strong\u003e In the product information sheet Dr. Wack approves the windscreen, bonnet, grille, bumper, headlights, plastic headlight lenses and door mirrors, and adds guaranteed paint-safe. You don't switch products between glass, clear coat and textured plastic.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree sizes, three situations.\u003c\/strong\u003e The small 100 ml bottle is 15.6 cm tall and fits in any glovebox; the big 750 ml one measures 25.0 cm and belongs on the shelf. In between sits 500 ml as the standard size for one summer season with one car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We often see fronts that are spotless and still smear at the first rain. The cause isn't on the glass, it's on the wiper blade. That's where the same residue gets pressed in with every wipe cycle and hardens, and at the first rain the blade drags it across the fresh screen. So wipe both wiper blades with a cloth damp with gel before you rinse. Two wipers, two passes, twenty seconds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe dwell time isn't on the bottle. Three minutes works.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the product information sheet Dr. Wack only says leave briefly to act and deliberately gives no number of minutes. AUTO ZEITUNG tested with 3 minutes and put the gel in second place. That's the reliable guide value.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe open instruction has a practical reason: how long it takes depends on how long the residue has been sitting. Freshly splattered bugs in summer still come off with water and a wet sponge after one night. After about forty-eight hours the protein layer has hardened and keyed into the clear coat so far that it won't go without chemistry. If the car was parked in blazing sun meanwhile, that window halves.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo with bug residue, time is the real active ingredient, twice over: once the time the residue has already been on the paint, and once the time the cleaner stays on it. The first you can only shorten by not waiting. The second is what the gel consistency buys you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe routine itself is short. Turn the nozzle to spray, shake the bottle, apply the gel generously across the cool front instead of misting it. Going easy on the spray is false economy here, because the reaction needs liquid and a film that's too thin dries on within minutes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLeave it briefly, then rinse thoroughly with water and only then wash. For crusts that stay put, the product information sheet is clear about what to do: a sponge to help, wet, no pressure and no circular motion. A second application always beats waiting longer, because a gel that's drying on doesn't dissolve anything any more and just costs you an extra rinse.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFinally, turn the nozzle back to stop. That's the leak protection, and anyone who keeps the bottle in the boot or door pocket knows after the first time why that setting exists.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-cw1-100-insekten-entferner-gel-insektenentferner_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867936\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"CW1:100 Insect Remover Gel being sprayed onto bonnet and headlights\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe test praises the cling and criticises the consumption\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn AUTO ZEITUNG's bug remover test from August 2025, the gel scored 77 out of 100 points and the seal Highly recommended. Praised were speed, thoroughness and the drip-free cling; criticised were the strong smell and high consumption.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth criticisms are the flip side of the same property. Whatever stays on the vertical instead of running off also isn't spread thin, it's laid on thick. If you want to get a whole front wet, with screen, bonnet and bumper, the 500 ml bottle empties faster than you'd think. With two or three fronts per summer you won't notice; with weekly long-distance driving you will. Then 750 ml is the sensible size.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo limits come from the product information sheet and aren't a formality. Don't use in direct sun or on hot surfaces: after two hundred kilometres of motorway, a dark bonnet is a lot warmer than the ambient air, and on a surface like that the gel dries on before it can swell the proteins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit concerns bare, unprotected aluminium, such as unpainted trim strips or polished parts. There, a test on an inconspicuous spot comes first. On painted, glazed and textured plastic surfaces, on the other hand, the manufacturer's approval applies without restriction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd the practical limit: the gel is designed for protein. Tree sap and tar aren't protein, and it won't help against them. If only the front is plastered with bugs after the motorway, this gel is the right tool. If sap from the roof, tar on the sills and a tired wax layer come on top, you're better off reaching for the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-intensivreiniger-aussen-intensivreiniger\"\u003eheavy-duty cleaner for the pre-wash\u003c\/a\u003e, which clears the whole organic range. More alternatives are in the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/insektenentferner\"\u003ebug removers\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe wiper reaches the screen. The gel reaches the rest of the front.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe CW1:100 \"Insect Remover Gel\" is the only cleaner in its line that doesn't go into the washer fluid. The four screenwashes work from the inside via the washer system while you drive. This gel works from the outside, parked, right on the spot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe division of labour is clean and answers the question of when you need what. If you're on the road and a smeary film builds up in the wiper area, a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-cw1-100-super-scheibenreiniger-scheibenreiniger\"\u003escreenwash concentrate for the washer fluid\u003c\/a\u003e belongs in the reservoir. It keeps your view clear, loosens fresh residue and prevents glare film against the light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf, on the other hand, you're parked and the residue is hard, the gel comes in. The wiper reaches a rectangle on the screen, nothing in front of it and nothing beside it. No washer fluid in the world gets to the grille, the headlights or the mirror base. Together the two cover the front; on their own, each leaves half behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference shows after the first long night drive. In the wiper area the screen is streaky but see-through, because fresh washer fluid lands there every few minutes. Just above it, beyond the wiper sweep, the bug layer sits untouched, and the same layer covers the bonnet, grille and headlight glass. Those zones are the gel's turf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat makes the gel for anyone who puts the miles in during summer and doesn't want to leave the front for weeks: country-road commuters, holiday drivers, motorhome and trailer use. As a pre-cleaner before the car wash it's half the battle, because otherwise the brushes push exactly the hard residue across the paint that they can't do anything about. If you drive your car in the winter half of the year and leave it parked in summer, you simply don't need it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne last detail that says more about the manufacturer than any product description: on the product information sheet for this gel, right next to the application notes, there's a refund condition. Bottle at least two-thirds full, sent back with sufficient postage, receipt enclosed, address Baar-Ebenhausen. A manufacturer that prints its own return address on the data sheet has done the maths on how often the bottle comes back.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"CW1:100\"","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":54707201016143,"sku":"D1-DRW-1799","price":15.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707201048911,"sku":"D1-DRW-1792","price":12.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"100 ml","offer_id":58086101549391,"sku":"D1-DRW-1793","price":6.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-cw1-100-insekten-entferner-gel-insektenentferner.png?v=1787867448"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-cw1-100-super-scheibenreiniger-scheibenreiniger","title":"CW1:100 \"Super\" screenwash concentrate","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eCW1:100 \"Super\" screenwash breaks down smear film — as long as you get the dose right\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is CW1:100 \"Super\"? A screenwash concentrate from Dr. Wack that goes into your washer water at 1 to 100 and lifts glare and smear film off the windscreen. Developed for windscreen washer systems and headlight washers. Not an antifreeze: it doesn't lower the freezing point.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack CW1:100 \"Super\" screenwash\u003c\/strong\u003e is a concentrate for the windscreen washer system that you dilute at a ratio of 1 to 100. The 1:100 in the name isn't a model code, it's the recipe on the label. One dosing chamber holds 25 millilitres and makes 2.5 litres of ready-to-use washer fluid, so the 250 millilitre bottle makes 25 litres. That's ten dosing chambers per bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe film it goes after isn't a layer of dust. Bug remains, diesel soot, silicone and wax residue build up on the glass as a milky-looking, water-repellent layer. A glass sealant is water-repellent too, but it's built up evenly — it gives you clean beading. Glare film is the opposite: it scatters incoming light instead of letting it through. You'll notice it when every oncoming car dazzles you at night, even though the wipers just went over the glass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe mixing ratio is in the product name.\u003c\/strong\u003e With the cap slightly unscrewed, squeeze the lower part of the bottle until the dosing chamber is full — that's the whole measuring system. That turns 250 millilitres into 25 litres of washer fluid, and the 5 litre canister into 500 litres.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe anti-limescale formula keeps the fan jet open.\u003c\/strong\u003e It binds the lime in tap water before it can settle in the nozzle opening. In practice: what doesn't crystallise can't clog the opening either, and the spray pattern stays wide instead of lopsided. Auto Bild gave the Super full marks for material compatibility, 15 out of 15.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIn winter the dose doubles, not the frost protection.\u003c\/strong\u003e For antifreeze mixes, Dr. Wack specifies 1 to 50 — four dosing chambers or 100 millilitres per 5 litres of finished mix. The Super doesn't replace antifreeze, it boosts its cleaning power.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e What we see day-to-day: the most common mistake is tipping it into a full reservoir. If you empty the dosing chamber straight into the tank and top up with water, you're not mixing — the concentrate just sits at the bottom. The first sprays foam up over-concentrated, the last ones are almost pure water. In the product information sheet, Dr. Wack recommends mixing the components in a separate container first. Empty 2.5 litre jug, 25 millilitres in, shake, pour — then what you dosed is what reaches the nozzle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne dosing chamber holds 25 millilitres and makes 2.5 litres\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCW1:100 \"Super\" screenwash is dosed at 1 to 100. One dosing chamber holds 25 millilitres of concentrate, making exactly 2.5 litres of ready-to-use fluid for the washer system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDose by feel and you pay twice. Too little concentrate, and the smear film stays as a haze the wipers just spread around. Too much, and the surfactants foam on dry glass, leave streaks and cost you two extra sprays to clear. The dosing chamber takes the guesswork out: unscrew the cap slightly, squeeze the lower part of the bottle until the chamber is full, unscrew the cap, pour in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe work in the washer water is done by anionic surfactants. These are molecules with one water-loving and one grease-loving end that wedge themselves between the glass and the smear film and lift the film off. For you, that means the wiper doesn't just push the dirt around anymore, it takes it with it. That's exactly why the amount decides the result, not the number of wipes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith the 40 millilitre single-dose bottle, there's no maths at all. At 1 to 100, 40 millilitres makes 4 litres of washer water, so one dose covers about one reservoir fill on most cars. That bottle lives in the glovebox as a top-up on the road; the bigger pack handles the planned dosing at home.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat the dosing chamber holds exactly 25 millilitres is straight from the product information sheet out of Baar-Ebenhausen. One fill, two and a half litres — that's all the mental arithmetic summer dosing asks of you. In canister format, the same sum looks like this: 5 litres of concentrate make around 500 litres of washer fluid, or 250 litres at winter strength.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack also says the cleaner extends the life of your wiper blades. There's no way to check that, but the mechanism is plausible: a wiper blade gliding over a loosened film works with less friction than one pushing dry dirt across the glass. The bigger lever, in our view, is never running the blade dry anyway — spray first, then wipe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFrom our own experience: water into the mixing container first, then the concentrate, then shake. The other way round, it foams over when you shake, and whatever ends up in the sink is missing from the tank. What sets the four \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-cw1-100-scheibenreiniger\"\u003escreenwashes in this range\u003c\/a\u003e apart comes down to exactly one number — the mixing ratio.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-cw1-100-super-scheibenreiniger-scheibenreiniger_anwendung.png?v=1787867946\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Dosing chamber of CW1:100 Super screenwash being emptied into the open washer fluid reservoir\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Super boosts your antifreeze — it can't replace it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCW1:100 \"Super\" screenwash doesn't lower the freezing point. In winter it goes into a finished antifreeze mix on top, dosed at 1 to 50 instead of 1 to 100.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe order is in the product information sheet and still rarely followed: antifreeze concentrate first, then fresh water, then the Super. Four dosing chambers, i.e. 100 millilitres, per 5 litres of finished antifreeze mix. If you put the cleaner into the empty canister first, it only gets mixed in by chance as you fill up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt gets expensive with antifreeze concentrates rated down to minus 60 degrees. Those must never meet the Super undiluted. Dr. Wack requires you to dilute the concentrate with fresh water to minus 30 degrees at most first, and only then add the cleaner. The sheet doesn't give a reason. We stick to it anyway, because a clogged washer jet in January is no small thing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe reason tap water is good enough here is the anti-limescale formula. In hard-water areas, calcium is what gradually grows the fine nozzle opening shut over the years. The formula binds it before it can settle — which is why Dr. Wack specifies fresh tap water, not distilled. Day to day, that means you skip the jug from the DIY store and mix at the tap.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is in front of the windscreen. No washer fluid dissolves dried-on bug shells on the bonnet, grille and headlights, because there's no dwell time — the wiper is on the glass for seconds, not minutes. If the film builds up while you're driving, the Super is the right tool. If the remains dry on while the car is parked, you need an \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-cw1-100-insekten-entferner-gel-insektenentferner\"\u003einsect remover that clings as a gel\u003c\/a\u003e on the surface, one that stays put instead of running off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn issue 22 of 2022, Auto Bild put the Super up against eight other screenwashes. Result: good, grade 2.4, third place out of nine. Full marks of 15 for material compatibility, 56 out of 80 points for pure cleaning power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTranslated: if maximum cleaning power trumps everything for you, there are stronger contenders in the field. If you don't want anything to happen to paint, rubber seals or plastic headlight lenses, you're in the right place — and according to the manufacturer, the formula was developed for exactly those parts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDose it yourself and you stop paying for water\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA 1:100 concentrate doesn't haul water around. 250 millilitres of CW1:100 \"Super\" screenwash become 25 litres of ready-to-use fluid; the other 24.75 litres come out of the tap at home.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhich pack pays off depends less on the car than on how you drive. If you do lots of motorway miles, you'll empty the washer reservoir much faster in bug season than the rest of the year — that's what the 250 millilitre bottle with dosing chamber is built for. The 40 millilitre single-dose bottle is the glovebox top-up. The 5 litre canister pays off from the second car in the household.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA second consumer is listed in the product information sheet and usually gets lost in the windscreen discussion: the headlight washer system. Cars with pop-out washer jets on the headlights draw from the same reservoir. That doesn't change the dosing, but it does change consumption — if you trigger the system regularly in winter, the reservoir empties much faster and you're better off with the canister than the single-dose bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to mix yourself and you've got a tap anyway, the concentrate is the leaner route — on the shelf, in the boot and in the amount of plastic per litre of washer fluid. If you want the canister ready-mixed in the boot because there's no water on the road, grab the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-cw1-100-super-scheibenreiniger-fertig-mix-scheibenreiniger\"\u003eready-to-use pre-mix\u003c\/a\u003e. That's not a ranking, it's a decision about where the water gets added.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe first time round, measuring feels more of a faff than emptying a ready-made jug. That's normal. After two or three fills you've got the hang of it, and the dosing chamber becomes what it is — the measuring cup already built into the bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe tip no label gives you: don't wait for the first frost forecast to switch to winter dosing. If you move to 1 to 50 in October, while late-summer bug remains are still on the glass, you get the double dose exactly when it has the most work to do. And in January the antifreeze mix has long been sitting correctly in the reservoir, instead of being thrown together on the driveway at minus five.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"CW1:100\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707201835343,"sku":"D1-DRW-1745","price":12.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"40 ml","offer_id":54707201868111,"sku":"D1-DRW-1749","price":3.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 Liter","offer_id":54707201900879,"sku":"D1-DRW-1743","price":126.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-cw1-100-super-scheibenreiniger-scheibenreiniger.png?v=1787867479"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-cw1-100-super-scheibenreiniger-fertig-mix-scheibenreiniger","title":"CW1:100 \"Super\" screenwash, ready-to-use","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eClear view without mixing, straight from the jerry can\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eThe CW1:100 Super screenwash ready mix is a ready-to-use summer cleaner for the washer reservoir. It clears glare and smear films in a flash and gets rid of bug grime. You don't have to measure or mix anything, but you can stretch it if needed. No antifreeze and no concentrate for diluting.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe CW1:100 Super screenwash ready mix\u003c\/strong\u003e is a ready-to-use screenwash for summer use that goes straight into the washer reservoir with no prep. At its core is a specially developed polymer combination from the Dr. Wack Chemie research lab. It delivers a fast, low-streak view and combines the familiar CW1:100 quality with the convenience of a pre-mixed product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eClear view in a flash.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cleaner clears glare and smear films instantly instead of just spreading them across the glass. So your view stays clean and glare-free even with a low sun and oncoming headlights.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAnti-limescale formula.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula binds limescale and so prevents clogged washer jets and deposits in the reservoir. Especially with hard tap water, that keeps the fan jets clear for longer and their spray pattern even.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTough on bugs, gentle on the system.\u003c\/strong\u003e Stuck-on bug grime comes off quickly, and the cleaner is designed for plastic headlight lenses and fan jets. On top of that, the formula extends the life of your wiper blades.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e With a stubborn bug film, a lot of people just pour in more cleaner and wipe dry straight away. That only smears. You're better off flooding the screen generously, letting the cleaner work for a few seconds and then running the wipers several times. We know it from our own delivery runs in summer: one quick squirt won't cut it on baked-on grime.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePour the ready mix neat into the washer reservoir if you want the full effect, or mix it 1:1 with water if quantity matters more to you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeat, you get up to 2.8 litres and maximum cleaning power; diluted, up to 5.6 litres. After topping up, run the washers a few times so the cleaner flows through the lines and jets and is ready to go straight away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLimits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is a summer cleaner without antifreeze. In sub-zero temperatures the water in the reservoir and lines can freeze, so for winter you need a separate antifreeze product. The ready mix cleans the screen from the outside via the washer fluid; it's not a concentrate for heavy dilution and no substitute for cleaning heavily soiled glass by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWho it's for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe ready mix is made for high-mileage drivers with high standards who want a consistently clear view in summer without measuring out concentrate every time. If clean jets, well-kept wipers and quick top-ups matter to you, this gets you the familiar CW1:100 performance in its most convenient form.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"CW1:100\"","offers":[{"title":"2800 mL","offer_id":54707202130255,"sku":"D1-DRW-1741","price":12.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-cw1-100-super-scheibenreiniger-fertig-mix-scheibenreiniger.png?v=1787867469"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-p21s-felgen-detailer-quick-detailer-felgen","title":"P21S \"Felgen-Detailer\" Quick Detailer for Wheels","description":"\u003ch2 class=\"p1\"\u003eDr. Wack P21S Felgen-Detailer – Heat-resistant quick detailer for gleaming, protected wheels\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\n\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p3\"\u003eHow does the Dr. Wack P21S Felgen-Detailer protect wheels? Its heat-resistance formula lays down a heat-resistant protective layer, boosts the gloss and gives you strong beading against brake dust, UV and grime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p3\"\u003eThe \u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eDr. Wack P21S Felgen-Detailer\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e is your fast track to perfectly kept wheels – gloss, protection and easy one-step use rolled into one. Built for alloy, steel, painted, anodised, polished or wrapped wheels, it pairs proven P21S technology with an innovative, heat-resistant formula. Ideal for you if you keep your wheels on a regular routine and want to top up existing protection like a ceramic coating – even between washes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eHeat-resistant long-term protection:\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e The dedicated heat-resistance formula reliably shields wheels from brake dust, UV and road grime – even at high temperatures after a spirited drive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eStrong beading \u0026amp; gloss:\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e The built-in beading booster throws off visible beading and deepens colour and gloss – even on wet wheels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"s1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eSuper-fast to use:\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e Just spray on, spread, buff off – visible results in seconds. Perfect for a quick refresh after the wash or before a meet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHeat-resistance formula and beading booster – real protection tech\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p3\"\u003eThe \u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eheat-resistance formula\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e is the heart of what the P21S Felgen-Detailer does. It lays down an invisible, heat-stable protective layer that helps keep wheels intact even after long drives with hot brakes. Unlike classic quick detailers that only bring gloss, this formula actively works against heat-driven deposits. Brake dust and road grime cling far less, which makes the next clean noticeably easier. The built-in \u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ebeading booster\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e reinforces any protection already down – wax, polymer or ceramic coating alike. Even if your wheels already carry an SiO₂-based coating, the P21S FELGEN-Detailer layers on top without a fuss. That way you stretch the durability and keep even, lasting beading and gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eUse on dry and wet wheels – easy, safe, effective\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p3\"\u003eA key upside of the \u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eP21S Felgen-Detailer\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e is how fuss-free it goes on – even on wet wheels. After the wash, just rinse them off, give the bottle a good shake and spray the detailer straight onto a clean microfibre cloth (e.g. \u003ci\u003eA1 DAS TUCH Premium Mikrofaser\u003c\/i\u003e). Then spread it evenly over the wheel and buff off with the dry side. This step brings instant gloss and leaves an even protective layer. If you want to push the long-term effect further, keep the treated wheels away from moisture for about two hours. Day-to-day from Detailing1: use two cloths – one to spread, one to wipe – and you get a flawless finish with no streaks. The detailer lifts light dirt and dust, which makes it ideal for a quick clean between washes or as a finish after the main wash. Important: don't use it on hot wheels or in direct sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGloss, colour refresh and compatibility with every wheel type\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p3\"\u003eWhether \u003cspan class=\"s2\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ehigh-gloss polished, painted, anodised or wrapped\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e – the P21S Felgen-Detailer delivers convincing results on every surface. The upshot: deep gloss, visible colour refresh and a noticeably smoother finish. Thanks to the slick surface, water beads off reliably and dirt barely gets a grip. On high-end alloy wheels in particular, which often react badly to harsh cleaners, the detailer scores with its mild but highly effective formula. It cares for the surface without degreasing it or attacking the protective film already there. Paired with a regular wheel clean, e.g. with the \u003ci\u003eP21S Felgenreiniger Power Gel\u003c\/i\u003e, you get an ideal care system: deep-clean wheels with long-lasting gloss and protection. That keeps the value of your wheels up over the long haul – and cuts the effort right down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCommon questions about the Dr. Wack P21S Felgen-Detailer\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eCan I use the P21S Felgen-Detailer on hot wheels? \u003c\/b\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003eNo, only use it on cooled-down wheels and not in direct sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eIs the detailer suitable for matte wheels too? \u003c\/b\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003eOn matte surfaces it can add gloss and colour refresh – so test it on a hidden spot first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eCan I use it over ceramic coatings? \u003c\/b\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003eYes, the built-in beading booster reinforces existing ceramic or polymer coatings and visibly refreshes their effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eHow often should I use the detailer? \u003c\/b\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003eAfter every wash or whenever you want fresh gloss and protection – a regular routine keeps the best result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eCan I use the detailer on wet wheels too? \u003c\/b\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003eYes, it works brilliantly on wet wheels – ideal for a quick refresh right after washing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003csmall\u003eLast updated: 27.10.2025 — Author: Daniel (Detailing1)\u003c\/small\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"P21S\"","offers":[{"title":"500 ml","offer_id":58584749572431,"sku":"D1-DRW-1275","price":18.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"100 ml","offer_id":58584740888911,"sku":"D1-DRW-1276","price":6.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-p21s-felgen-detailer-quick-detailer-felgen.png?v=1787867511"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-p21s-power-gel-felgenreiniger","title":"P21S \"POWER GEL\" Wheel Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eThe P21S wheel cleaner swaps the brush for three minutes of dwell time\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the P21S POWER GEL wheel cleaner? An acid-free cleaning gel from Dr. Wack that chemically binds iron-bearing brake dust and turns red-violet while it does it. Approved for painted, anodised, mirror-polished and chrome wheels. Not a paint cleaner, not a sealant, and nothing for a warm wheel straight off a drive.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eP21S POWER GEL wheel cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is an acid-free cleaning gel from Dr. Wack for painted, anodised, mirror-polished and chrome wheels in alloy and steel. Its active ingredient, sodium mercaptoacetate, thioglycolate in the trade, locks the iron compounds out of brake dust into a water-soluble cage. Day-to-day that means the black deposit runs off with the rinse water instead of spreading across the spokes under a brush.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gel consistency is not thickener for show. A thin cleaner slides down a vertical wheel face in seconds and takes its reaction time with it. The POWER GEL stays where the spray puts it: on the hub, down in the spoke roots, on the rim flange. It is that cling time that turns three minutes of dwell into three minutes of contact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree minutes is enough, below ten degrees it is not.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack gives 3 to 5 minutes of dwell time. If the temperature drops below 10 °C or the wheel is heavily caked, the manufacturer itself stretches that to at least 10 minutes. Work in February on summer timing and you rinse the reaction away before it has finished.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe colour is a readout, not a bonus effect.\u003c\/strong\u003e The gel goes onto the wheel pink, so you see straight away every spot the spray missed. Wherever iron-bearing dust is sitting, the colour pulls through to a dark red-violet. After 3 minutes you know whether a second pass is needed before you even touch the hose.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFour container sizes, one formula.\u003c\/strong\u003e 750 millilitres with a trigger gun, 2 and 5 litres as canisters, 25 litres as a refill station. Between the small bottle and the big containers the price per litre drops by around a third without a thing changing in the mix. What you lose is the spray head.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We get a lot of questions about a whitish film left on the wheel after rinsing. That is usually not residue from the gel but limescale out of the rinse water, drying onto the warm wheel while you are standing at the next one. So work through wheel by wheel: spray, wait 3 to 5 minutes, rinse, wipe down with the drying towel, and only then the next one. Spraying all four at once looks like a time saver and costs you the second pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBelow ten degrees the POWER GEL needs ten minutes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpray onto the cold, dry wheel, wait 3 to 5 minutes, rinse off with a strong jet of water. Below ten degrees or with heavy brake dust, Dr. Wack stretches that to at least 10 minutes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCold means: a quarter of an hour after the last hard braking, and not in direct sun. A wheel that has just come off the motorway still carries the residual heat of the brake disc in its face. The gel dries on there before the reaction is through, and afterwards you are scrubbing dried cleaner instead of brake dust.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDry is the second half of the condition. Hose the wheel down first and you dilute the gel at the moment you lay it on, weakening exactly the property you bought it for. Spray from the bottom up so gel running down always meets untreated surface, and take in the hub, the spoke roots and the edge against the tyre on purpose. Loose grit on the wheel is no problem, it comes off with it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn quantity: generous, but not twice over. The gel works through contact, not through layer thickness, and a second coat onto a first one that is still wet buys you nothing but consumption. In the MOTORRAD hands-on test it was exactly this cling that explained the low usage: whatever stays up there needs no topping up. On a deep-dish wheel with narrow spokes a short second burst into the spoke roots still pays, because that is where the least gel arrives.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRinsing then runs top down, until no pink haze comes off any more. Wheels come before the paint in the wash order, otherwise you carry the dissolved iron dust over the doors afterwards. If a residue is left after rinsing, a second short pass is the right answer, not a longer dwell. Users agree across the board that an hour of contact gets you no more than ten minutes does.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-p21s-power-gel-felgenreiniger_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867974\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"P21S POWER GEL wheel cleaner being sprayed onto the cold alloy wheel\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe colour change flags the brake dust, the dwell time is what dissolved it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe colour change is an indicator, not a cleaning step. It tells you where iron-bearing dust is sitting. The work was done by the minutes before it, not by the colour.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat is more than splitting hairs, because two wrong expectations hang off it. First: a wheel where almost nothing changes colour is no proof of a weak product, it is usually a wheel with little iron on it. Second: a deep violet wheel is not clean yet, it is marked. It only gets clean once the bound dust is in the rinse water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo hard limits go with that. The POWER GEL cleans, it does not protect. After rinsing, the wheel surface is bare and open, and the next lot of brake dust keys in just as fast. If you want to stretch the cleaning intervals, you lay a \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/felgenreiniger\"\u003ewheel sealant\u003c\/a\u003e on afterwards, otherwise you start from zero every two weeks. And on wheels that have seen a whole winter season through, one pass is rarely enough. Two goes of three minutes beat one of twenty.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn mirror-polished and anodised surfaces Dr. Wack recommends a compatibility test on a hidden spot before the first use. And the smell: thioglycolate compounds have a sharp odour, the formula now carries fragrance on top, and that does not make it odour-free. In an enclosed space you notice it clearly, outdoors barely at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat leaves the line on the label. \"Repeat test winner\" holds for the range, not automatically for this bottle: in the AUTO BILD comparison in issue 22\/2021 with eleven wheel cleaners, it was the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-p21s-high-end-felgenreiniger\"\u003eP21S HIGH END wheel cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e that stood top with 183 out of 200 points, not the POWER GEL. That is not a mark against it, it is a question of who entered: the POWER GEL was not in that field.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe test figure you can pin on this bottle comes from the MOTORRAD hands-on test, which landed on 4 out of 5 stars. It praised the cling and the material compatibility on paint and chrome, and criticised a spray head that worked itself loose in use. If you want the formula that went through the comparison test, take the HIGH END. If you need gel cling, a colour readout and big containers, you are in the right place here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-p21s-power-gel-felgenreiniger_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867980\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Pink gel of the P21S POWER GEL on the vertical face of a VW alloy wheel\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDr. Wack builds the POWER GEL as a refill system, not as a one-way bottle\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe POWER GEL comes in four container sizes from 750 millilitres to 25 litres. The big canisters carry no spray head, they are meant for refilling and not for direct use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor one car that comes round every two to three weeks, the 750 millilitre bottle with the trigger gun is the right size. It is ready to go, it stands on the shelf without decanting, and it is the only version Dr. Wack ships with a trigger gun. From the second car in the household, with winter and summer wheels running in parallel, or with a driving style that makes the dust to match, the maths tips towards the 2 or 5 litre canister.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 25 litre refill station is no clearance lot from a different batch. It is the same mix that runs into the 750 millilitre bottle in Baar-Ebenhausen, just without a trigger gun in the box. Dr. Wack has carried the product since 1976, and the spread of container sizes follows from that: hold a formula stable for half a century and you can fill it into the same bottle and the same drum for everyone from the home driveway to the tyre fitter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWho the product is not built for belongs in the picture just as much. If you wash your car twice a year and let the wheels run in between, this is no one-shot rescue for baked-on deposits, it is a product that plays its advantage with regular use. On a painted winter wheel that has taken a season of chippings and road grit, the first pass takes the brake dust off and leaves the rest standing; only the second one makes it even.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd if you are only after shine, a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-p21s-felgen-wachs-felgenversiegelung\"\u003ewheel wax\u003c\/a\u003e serves you better than a cleaner. The POWER GEL takes away, it lays nothing on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne detail no manufacturer text mentions and that regularly causes grief with the big container: the 25 litre refill station comes without a tap. Order the drum with no tap and no pressure sprayer in the house and you are standing there with 27 kilos of gel you cannot get at. Two minutes of thought before you order save you a week of waiting with a full canister and an empty spray bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"P21S\"","offers":[{"title":"750ml","offer_id":54707217039695,"sku":"D1-DRW-1253","price":22.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2 liters","offer_id":54707217137999,"sku":"D1-DRW-1265","price":39.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":54707217170767,"sku":"D1-DRW-1256","price":100.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":56260456939855,"sku":"D1-DRW-1257","price":505.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000ml","offer_id":56260456874319,"sku":"D1-DRW-1252","price":29.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"100ml","offer_id":56260456907087,"sku":"D1-DRW-1251","price":5.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-p21s-power-gel-felgenreiniger.png?v=1787867588"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-p21s-high-end-felgenreiniger","title":"P21S \"HIGH END\" Wheel Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2 data-start=\"0\" data-end=\"88\"\u003eDr. Wack P21S \"HIGH END\" Wheel Cleaner – uncompromising power, easy on the metal\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"90\" data-end=\"325\"\u003e\u003cem data-start=\"90\" data-end=\"146\"\u003eHow does the Dr. Wack P21S \"High End\" Wheel Cleaner work?\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr data-start=\"146\" data-end=\"149\"\u003eIt pulls even baked-on brake dust, oil and rubber off the wheel on its own thanks to a clinging gel and a colour indicator – fast, gentle and even when it's cold out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"327\" data-end=\"330\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"332\" data-end=\"817\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-start=\"336\" data-end=\"379\"\u003eDr. Wack P21S \"High End\" Wheel Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is the premium wheel cleaner for anyone who wants flat-out cleaning power without putting paint, metal or seals at risk. Alloy, chrome or painted wheels – the thick gel formula clings instead of running off, lifts even burnt-in brake residue and gets you a visibly clean result in just a few minutes. Made for keen drivers and enthusiasts who care about shiny wheels and a safe job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-start=\"839\" data-end=\"1242\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"839\" data-end=\"973\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"841\" data-end=\"973\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"841\" data-end=\"870\"\u003eMaximum cleaning power:\u003c\/strong\u003e Reliably clears even heavy brake dust, oil and rubber residue – no scrubbing by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"974\" data-end=\"1098\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"976\" data-end=\"1098\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"976\" data-end=\"1006\"\u003eGentle gel technology:\u003c\/strong\u003e Doesn't run off, clings for ages and cleans deep without attacking sensitive surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"1099\" data-end=\"1242\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1101\" data-end=\"1242\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSafe for wheel and sensor:\u003c\/strong\u003e pH-neutral and fine for TPMS sensors.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"1244\" data-end=\"1247\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"1249\" data-end=\"1314\"\u003eGel formula \u0026amp; colour indicator – how the cleaning works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1315\" data-end=\"2042\"\u003eThe special gel formula in the \u003cstrong data-start=\"1344\" data-end=\"1379\"\u003eP21S \"High End\" Wheel Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e was built to grab onto the wheel and stay put. Instead of running off, the gel sits evenly across the surface – even on vertical faces. That gives the active components longer to work and they bite harder. Over the dwell time (about 3–5 minutes) they cut through layers of brake dust, metal particles and oil residue. The signature colour indicator shows you the progress: once the cleaner turns purple to black, the dirt is lifted and rinses straight off. That colour change comes from iron complexation – a visible sign the chemistry is doing its thing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"2044\" data-end=\"2082\"\u003eHow to use it \u0026amp; the right dwell time\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2083\" data-end=\"2810\"\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong data-start=\"2101\" data-end=\"2145\"\u003eDr. Wack P21S \"High End\" Wheel Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e couldn't be simpler or safer. Spray it evenly onto dry, cooled-down wheels – best from about 20 cm away. Then let it dwell for 3–5 minutes, until the purple colour is clearly showing. After that, rinse off well with a strong jet or pressure washer. With really baked-in grime a soft wheel-brush set gives it a hand. Important: don't use it on hot wheels or in direct sun. The cleaner is fine on all materials, including delicate TPMS sensors. Thanks to the pH-neutral formula there's no corrosion on metal, paint or plastic parts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"2812\" data-end=\"2871\"\u003eResults, material safety \u0026amp; where to use it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2872\" data-end=\"3654\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-start=\"2876\" data-end=\"2910\"\u003eP21S \"High End\" Wheel Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e delivers no-compromise results – even where other products tap out. Brake dust and burnt-in particles come off completely, with no reworking and no brush needed. The wheels get their original shine back, with no dull film or streaks. Its high material tolerance makes it ideal for every wheel type, including chromed or polished surfaces. Even in cold weather it keeps working hard, which makes it the perfect all-year cleaner. For full care we'd suggest laying down a \u003cstrong data-start=\"3501\" data-end=\"3523\"\u003ewheel sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e like Dr. Wack P21S Felgen-Wachs after cleaning – it protects against fresh grime long-term and makes the next clean easier.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"3656\" data-end=\"3659\"\u003e\n\u003ch4 data-start=\"3661\" data-end=\"3723\"\u003eCommon questions about Dr. Wack P21S \"High End\" Wheel Cleaner\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3725\" data-end=\"3918\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3725\" data-end=\"3789\"\u003eHow long should the P21S \"High End\" Wheel Cleaner dwell?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr data-start=\"3789\" data-end=\"3792\"\u003e3–5 minutes is ideal. In that time the colour indicator lifts the dirt visibly. Then just rinse it off with water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3920\" data-end=\"4130\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3920\" data-end=\"4000\"\u003eCan I use it on painted or chromed wheels too?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr data-start=\"4000\" data-end=\"4003\"\u003eYes – it's pH-neutral and gentle, so you can use it safely on all common wheel finishes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4132\" data-end=\"4298\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4132\" data-end=\"4184\"\u003eIs it suitable for winter wheels?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr data-start=\"4184\" data-end=\"4187\"\u003eYes, the strong formula works even at low temperatures and protects the material at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4300\" data-end=\"4467\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4300\" data-end=\"4359\"\u003eHow can you tell when the cleaner has finished reacting?\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr data-start=\"4359\" data-end=\"4362\"\u003eWhen the gel turns purple to black, the dirt is lifted and the clean is done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003csmall\u003eLast updated: 24.10.2025 — Author: Daniel (Detailing1)\u003c\/small\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"P21S\"","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml (Limited Edition 2025)","offer_id":56224509624655,"sku":"D1-DRW-1232","price":24.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"750ml","offer_id":54707218743631,"sku":"D1-DRW-1230","price":24.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"100ml","offer_id":54707218776399,"sku":"D1-DRW-1231","price":7.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2 liters","offer_id":54707218809167,"sku":"D1-DRW-1235","price":46.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":54707218841935,"sku":"D1-DRW-1236","price":114.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-p21s-high-end-felgenreiniger.png?v=1787867537"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-p21s-metall-alu-polish-metallpolitur","title":"P21S \"Metall-\/ Alu-Polish\" Metal Polish","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eP21S \"Metall-\/ Alu-Polish\" takes the oxide off and leaves the metal standing\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the P21S \"Metall-\/ Alu-Polish\"? A white, paste-style metal polish from Dr. Wack that mechanically takes the dull oxide layer off aluminium, chrome, stainless steel, silver, brass and copper and leaves a protective film behind. Not for anodised surfaces and not for chromed plastic.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eP21S \"Metall-\/ Alu-Polish\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a metal polish from Dr. Wack that uncovers bare surfaces again instead of coating them. Aluminium, chrome and stainless steel react with the oxygen in the air and pull on a wafer-thin oxide layer that scatters light instead of mirroring it. You know it from the silver cutlery in the drawer: it does not get dirty, it tarnishes. For you that means no cleaner shifts that dull grey, it has to be taken off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe data sheet does not list a pH value for this product at all, it simply says “not applicable”. The paste is not water-based, so there is neither acid nor alkali that could work on the metal. What comes off comes off by pure abrasion, steered by pressure and by the lines you work in. In practice: leaving it on too long does the metal no harm, it only makes wiping it off more of a chore. What you dose here is pressure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe paste is mixed in Baar-Ebenhausen, and its density of 1.22 grams per cubic centimetre at 20 °C gives away what is in the tube. Although almost half the formula is volatile, it weighs a good deal more than water. That weight comes from the solid abrasive bodies, which is why 100 ml of contents put 122 grams on the scales.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen there is the consistency. The data sheet quotes a viscosity between 2,000 and 6,000 millipascal seconds, which is thick honey territory. Day-to-day you notice it because the paste stays put on a vertical tailpipe instead of running off before you have worked it in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSix materials out of one 100-millilitre tube.\u003c\/strong\u003e Aluminium, chrome, stainless steel, silver, brass and copper are all on the approval list, painted or bare. For the chrome strip, the stainless tailpipe and the brass fitting on a classic you do not need three products, you need one tube and three clean wads of polishing wadding.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e129 out of 155 points in the chrome polish test.\u003c\/strong\u003e AUTO BILD ran nine chrome polishes against each other on 4 May 2026, and the Metall-\/ Alu-Polish came out on top with the verdict “highly recommended”. 100 of the 155 points hung on the finish pattern and the surface gloss alone, so on the question of how clean the cut looks once you are done.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe flash-off phase is evaporation, not waiting.\u003c\/strong\u003e Around 48 per cent of the formula is volatile. In the short pause between working it in and wiping it off, that carrier goes into the air and leaves the protective film behind on the exposed metal. You notice it like this: on a warm day the film goes matt and ready to wipe faster than it does somewhere cool and shaded.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We see the most expensive mistake regularly before the tube is even open — anodised and clear-coated aluminium looks like bare metal but carries a protective layer that this polish takes off with everything else. So run the white cloth test: a pea-sized blob on a white cotton cloth, rubbed on a hidden patch for twenty seconds. If the mark goes grey to black, you have bare metal in front of you, because that residue is the oxide layer. If the cloth stays white, there is anodising or clear coat on top, and that is where the polish stops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eYou polish the whole strip, never just the dull patch.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe paste goes onto polishing wadding and not straight onto the metal, gets worked in with pressure, flashes off briefly and is then wiped away with a clean microfibre cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWash first, dry second, polish third. On a dirty surface you grind loose grit along under the wadding, and the fine lines that leaves show up more clearly on polished metal than on paint. A surface that mirrors shows every mistake twice over.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe reason for the wadding is dosing. Put the paste straight onto the surface and it sits too thick in one spot and spreads unevenly on the first pass. On the wadding the same amount spreads across the whole contact face, and the pressure from your hand arrives evenly at the metal. That is exactly what sits behind the AUTO BILD sub-score for spreadability.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe second rule is in small print on the tube and gets skipped over constantly: for an even result you always work the whole surface. Go at the dull patch on the tailpipe on its own and you end up with two states side by side and a visible line between them. A chrome strip gets done edge to edge, a tailpipe all the way round, a wheel as a whole.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn painted surfaces, painted alloy wheels for instance, the manufacturer explicitly calls for minimal effort. There is no oxide there, there is paint, and paint will not take the pressure bare metal needs. If you are doing several metal parts in one go, the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-metallpolitur\"\u003emetal polishes from Dr. Wack\u003c\/a\u003e also run to the motorcycle version, built around the same way of working.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBrown speckles on stainless tailpipes are usually fallout, foreign iron particles that have taken hold. The polish takes those off mechanically. A chemical decon step does dissolve them more gently, but it does not bring back the shine the surface needs afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-p21s-metall-alu-polish-metallpolitur_anwendung.png?v=1787867970\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"P21S Metall-\/ Alu-Polish being dosed onto a wad of polishing wadding in front of the wheel\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAnodised alu does not get polished, it gets taken off.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnodising is not paint and not colour, it is an oxide layer grown on the aluminium in a bath, so exactly the material this polish is built to take off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe paste plays to its strength wherever bare metal is out in the air: stainless tailpipes, chrome trim on a modern classic, unpainted forged wheels, motorcycle parts, brass and copper fittings. There is a genuine oxide layer there, and the dark streak you see on the cloth afterwards is the proof that it is off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe manufacturer draws two hard limits. Anodised aluminium stays off limits, because the anodised layer is itself the protection and the abrasion simply takes it with it. What appears underneath is unprotected raw material. And on chromed plastic parts the paste has no business: the chrome sits there as a wafer-thin metal film on the plastic and you have polished through it before you notice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the paste also does not do: deep scoring, pitting and corrosion that has already eaten into the material. It works at the surface, not down in it. If you are bringing a chrome strip or a tailpipe up to a mirror shine by hand, this is the right tool. If a large dull alu panel has to be cut back by machine first, you reach for the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur\"\u003emetal polish with a medium cut\u003c\/a\u003e and come back to this paste for the finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe shine is a state with a shelf life, not a result.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBare metal starts reacting with the oxygen in the air again from the first moment, which is why metal polish is a rhythm and not a one-off appointment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat is exactly what the protective film left by the paste works against. It slows the tarnishing, it does not stop it. How long it lasts is something Dr. Wack deliberately does not state for this product, and that is fair enough: a tailpipe in winter use stands in a different place from a trim strip on a car kept under cover. On wheels you put a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-p21s-felgen-wachs-felgenversiegelung\"\u003ewheel sealant\u003c\/a\u003e from the same line over the top and stretch the interval noticeably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe tube makes sense for anyone living with unpainted metal on the car: modern-classic and classic drivers with chrome, riders with polished parts on the bike, detailers who do the stainless tailpipes as the last job before handover. It makes no sense for someone after a permanent fix. If you never want to polish again, have the surface clear-coated and look after the paint from then on, not the metal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCommercially that makes the 100-millilitre tube not a small size but the right one. A pea-sized blob goes onto the wadding per pass, and anyone who keeps to the rhythm gets through less of it than someone working against a full year of oxide once a year. Store it frost-free, tightly closed and away from food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe trick no tube prints on the label: do not reach for the polish once the surface has gone dull, reach for it while it still shines. On freshly tarnished metal a light pass is enough and barely anything stays on the cloth. On two years of oxide the same shine costs you real material, and what once sticks to the cloth does not come back. Aluminium does not grow back.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"P21S\"","offers":[{"title":"100ml","offer_id":54707219333455,"sku":"D1-DRW-1285","price":15.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-p21s-metall-alu-polish-metallpolitur.png?v=1787867578"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-s100-das-tuch-mikrofasertuch-motorradpflege-zubehoer","title":"\"S100\" DAS TUCH microfibre cloth for motorcycles","description":"\u003ch2 data-start=\"107\" data-end=\"164\"\u003eThe perfect finish with the Dr. Wack \"S100\" DAS TUCH microfibre cloth\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"166\" data-end=\"652\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"180\" data-end=\"197\"\u003eDr. Wack \"S100\" DAS TUCH\u003c\/strong\u003e gives you the perfect finish — huge absorbency, plush high-pile on both sides, a seamless Ultra‑Sonic‑Cut edge and the softest feel going. It buffs off polishes and waxes with no streaks or hazing, dries your bike fast and washes at up to 60 °C (300 cycles minimum) — and stays scratch-free the whole time. Made in Germany, it pairs premium build with proper motorcycle care.\u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"ms-1 inline-flex max-w-full items-center relative top-[-0.094rem] animate-[show_150ms_ease-in]\" data-testid=\"webpage-citation-pill\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-start=\"695\" data-end=\"1110\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"695\" data-end=\"835\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"697\" data-end=\"835\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"697\" data-end=\"746\"\u003eMaximum absorbency \u0026amp; smoother buffing:\u003c\/strong\u003e perfect for drying and buffing off without streaks.\u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"ms-1 inline-flex max-w-full items-center relative top-[-0.094rem] animate-[show_150ms_ease-in]\" data-testid=\"webpage-citation-pill\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"ms-1 inline-flex max-w-full items-center relative top-[-0.094rem] animate-[show_150ms_ease-in]\" data-testid=\"webpage-citation-pill\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"836\" data-end=\"993\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"838\" data-end=\"993\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"838\" data-end=\"871\"\u003eDouble the surface \u0026amp; lint-free:\u003c\/strong\u003e high-pile on both sides plus the Ultra‑Sonic‑Cut edge mean safe, scratch-free use.\u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"ms-1 inline-flex max-w-full items-center relative top-[-0.094rem] animate-[show_150ms_ease-in]\" data-testid=\"webpage-citation-pill\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"994\" data-end=\"1110\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"996\" data-end=\"1110\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"996\" data-end=\"1019\"\u003eTough \u0026amp; long-lasting:\u003c\/strong\u003e washes at 60 °C, over 300 cycles, developed in Bavaria.\u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"ms-1 inline-flex max-w-full items-center relative top-[-0.094rem] animate-[show_150ms_ease-in]\" data-testid=\"webpage-citation-pill\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"1112\" data-end=\"1115\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"1117\" data-end=\"1148\"\u003eUse \u0026amp; all-round talent\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1150\" data-end=\"1674\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-start=\"1154\" data-end=\"1171\"\u003eS100 DAS TUCH\u003c\/strong\u003e is seriously soft and plush — perfect for gently buffing off polishes, waxes or cleaners without leaving clouds or hazing behind. Thanks to how much it soaks up, it's spot-on for drying your bike after a wash. Works just as well on glossy and matte surfaces — think paint, helmets, visors, leather or fairings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"1676\" data-end=\"1721\"\u003eUse \u0026amp; guaranteed quality\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1723\" data-end=\"2278\"\u003eThanks to the seamless \u003cstrong data-start=\"1742\" data-end=\"1761\"\u003eUltra‑Sonic‑Cut\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cloth is cut with no edges — and the high-pile on both sides, you get twice the surface, a lint-free result and completely scratch-free use. Built in Germany to the highest standards, \u003cstrong data-start=\"2035\" data-end=\"2054\"\u003eMade in Germany.\u003c\/strong\u003e means research, production and customer service all under one roof.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"2280\" data-end=\"2306\"\u003eCare \u0026amp; longevity\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2308\" data-end=\"2707\"\u003eEven after \u003cstrong data-start=\"2334\" data-end=\"2358\"\u003emin. 300 wash cycles\u003c\/strong\u003e the cloth stays soft and thirsty — wash it up to 60 °C, ideally on its own or in a mesh bag, and skip the fabric softener to protect the microfibres. Once it's dry — best at 60 °C max — give it a quick shake to lift the pile back up and get it working at full tilt.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"S100\"","offers":[{"title":"1 piece","offer_id":54707224248655,"sku":"D1-DRW-8005","price":9.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/S100-DasTuch-2020_1500px.png?v=1742506922"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-s100-kettenbuerste-motorradpflege-kettenpflege","title":"\"S100\" chain brush for motorcycles (for chain cleaner)","description":"\u003ch2 data-end=\"1345\" data-start=\"885\"\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eEffective cleaning brush for grimy motorcycle chains — the Dr. Wack \"S100\" chain brush for motorcycles\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1345\" data-start=\"885\"\u003eThe Dr. Wack \"S100\" chain brush is your go-to for a proper deep clean of your bike’s drivetrain — \u003cem data-end=\"1038\" data-start=\"1021\"\u003eMade in Germany\u003c\/em\u003e. It shifts even the most caked-on grime reliably, works hand in hand with the \u003cstrong data-end=\"1169\" data-start=\"1146\"\u003eS100 chain cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e, and thanks to its different brush heads you get into every spot without a fight. The tough bristles keep their shape over the long haul and make cleaning quick and thorough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-end=\"1669\" data-start=\"1369\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-end=\"1456\" data-start=\"1369\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1456\" data-start=\"1371\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"1401\" data-start=\"1371\"\u003eEffective deep clean:\u003c\/strong\u003e lifts stubborn grime and build-up reliably\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-end=\"1580\" data-start=\"1457\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1580\" data-start=\"1459\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"1485\" data-start=\"1459\"\u003eVersatile use:\u003c\/strong\u003e different brush heads get chain, sprocket and awkward spots clean\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-end=\"1669\" data-start=\"1581\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1669\" data-start=\"1583\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"1606\" data-start=\"1583\"\u003eTough \u0026amp; long-lasting:\u003c\/strong\u003e hard-wearing bristles that keep going\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr data-end=\"1674\" data-start=\"1671\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"1729\" data-start=\"1676\"\u003eVersatile cleaning for every part of the drivetrain\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2134\" data-start=\"1730\"\u003eWith the \u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack \"S100\" chain brush\u003c\/strong\u003e you reach every part of the drive with no hassle — from the chain links to the sprocket. Paired with the \u003cstrong data-end=\"1890\" data-start=\"1867\"\u003eS100 chain cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e, it clears out greased-up residue, sand and metal swarf properly. That way fresh lube actually does its job, because the path is clear — and your drivetrain runs smooth again.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"2134\" data-start=\"1730\"\u003eTop quality — Made in Germany\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2572\" data-start=\"2180\"\u003eLike every S100 product, the \u003cem data-end=\"2244\" data-start=\"2225\"\u003eS100 chain brush\u003c\/em\u003e is developed, built and backed entirely in Germany — right in the heart of Bavaria. Test wins and top quality standards back up how dependable it is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"2627\" data-start=\"2574\"\u003eThe perfect partner for your bike care\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"3165\" data-start=\"2628\"\u003eThe Dr. Wack \"S100\" chain brush is the ideal partner for the \u003cstrong data-end=\"2719\" data-start=\"2695\"\u003eS100 chain cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e (a gel formula with serious creeping power) followed by a chain spray like \u003cstrong data-end=\"2831\" data-start=\"2800\"\u003eS100 White Chain Spray 2.0\u003c\/strong\u003e or \u003cstrong data-end=\"2849\" data-start=\"2837\"\u003eDry Lube\u003c\/strong\u003e. That turns your care routine into an efficient, well-lubed full service for your drivetrain.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"S100\"","offers":[{"title":"1 piece \/ Schwarz","offer_id":55911735066959,"sku":"D1-DRW-8144","price":11.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/S100-FS-Kettenbuerste-mitBuerste-2023_1500px.png?v=1742507038"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-s100-matt-wachs-spray-motorradpflege","title":"\"S100\" Matte Wax Spray for Motorcycles (Matte)","description":"\u003ch2 data-end=\"248\" data-start=\"158\"\u003eKeeps the original matte finish \u0026amp; delivers seriously long protection thanks to the Dr. Wack \"S100\" Matte Wax Spray.\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"671\" data-start=\"250\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-end=\"279\" data-start=\"254\"\u003eDr. Wack \"S100\" Matte Wax Spray\u003c\/strong\u003e keeps the \u003cstrong data-end=\"316\" data-start=\"291\"\u003eoriginal matte finish\u003c\/strong\u003e on paint and wrap and gives you \u003cstrong data-end=\"390\" data-start=\"357\"\u003eseriously long-lasting protection\u003c\/strong\u003e against the weather, rain and UV alike. Water beads straight off, it repels water, oil and grime, and it\u0026#39;s \u003cstrong data-end=\"549\" data-start=\"524\"\u003eeasy to work\u003c\/strong\u003e – spot on for matte wraps too. Made in Germany, premium quality for motorcycle care.\u003cspan data-state=\"closed\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan data-testid=\"webpage-citation-pill\" class=\"ms-1 inline-flex max-w-full items-center relative top-[-0.094rem] animate-[show_150ms_ease-in]\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-end=\"927\" data-start=\"709\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-end=\"787\" data-start=\"709\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"787\" data-start=\"711\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"738\" data-start=\"711\"\u003eProtection with a matte effect:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keeps the matte look and shields it reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-end=\"862\" data-start=\"788\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"862\" data-start=\"790\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"819\" data-start=\"790\"\u003eBeading \u0026amp; repellency:\u003c\/strong\u003e Water, oil and dirt don\u0026#39;t stand a chance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-end=\"927\" data-start=\"863\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"927\" data-start=\"865\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"888\" data-start=\"865\"\u003eEasy to use:\u003c\/strong\u003e On fast, done fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr data-end=\"932\" data-start=\"929\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"967\" data-start=\"934\"\u003eApplication \u0026amp; ease of care\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1295\" data-start=\"968\"\u003eThe S100 Matte Wax Spray is \u003cstrong data-end=\"1020\" data-start=\"998\"\u003eeasy to apply\u003c\/strong\u003e: give the bottle a good shake, spray onto a soft, lint-free cloth (or straight onto the clean, dry surface), spread it evenly, let it flash off briefly and buff gently with a fresh cloth. Done!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"1327\" data-start=\"1297\"\u003eEffect \u0026amp; protection\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1635\" data-start=\"1328\"\u003eThe special formula protects \u003cstrong data-end=\"1372\" data-start=\"1357\"\u003eextremely long\u003c\/strong\u003e against the elements like rain and UV, without touching the matte look. Water just beads off while oil and dirt don\u0026#39;t stand a chance – perfect for matte-painted or wrapped surfaces and matte helmets too.\u003cspan data-state=\"closed\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan data-testid=\"webpage-citation-pill\" class=\"ms-1 inline-flex max-w-full items-center relative top-[-0.094rem] animate-[show_150ms_ease-in]\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"1684\" data-start=\"1637\"\u003eWhere to use it \u0026amp; material compatibility\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1894\" data-start=\"1685\"\u003eIdeal for all \u003cstrong data-end=\"1734\" data-start=\"1705\"\u003ematte motorcycle surfaces\u003c\/strong\u003e – paint, matte wraps, helmets or carbon. Not suited to glossy paint, since the matte effect can otherwise be lost.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"S100\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707236405583,"sku":"D1-DRW-2460","price":13.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/S100-Matt-Wachs-Spray-250ml-2021_1500x1500_d1cb6f16-457b-467d-8c97-c84f68f13b66.png?v=1742507142"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-s100-metallpolitur-motorradpflege","title":"\"S100\" metal polish for motorbikes","description":"\u003ch2 data-end=\"255\" data-start=\"196\"\u003eMirror shine on your metal parts with Dr. Wack \"S100\" metal polish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"763\" data-start=\"257\"\u003eWith \u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack S100 metal polish\u003c\/strong\u003e you bring chromed, faded or dulled metal surfaces on your bike back to a mirror shine – no new scratches, no streaks. It reliably clears \u003cstrong data-end=\"570\" data-start=\"505\"\u003ecorrosion, flash rust, discolouration on the exhaust\u003c\/strong\u003e, \u003cstrong data-end=\"588\" data-start=\"572\"\u003edull spots\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong data-end=\"612\" data-start=\"593\"\u003elight scratches.\u003c\/strong\u003e Made in Germany – top quality from Dr. O.K. Wack.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-end=\"1209\" data-start=\"796\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-end=\"932\" data-start=\"796\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"932\" data-start=\"798\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eShine with confidence: \u003c\/strong\u003egets you a mirror-bright finish without polishing in fresh scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-end=\"1072\" data-start=\"933\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1072\" data-start=\"935\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAll-round shine care:\u003c\/strong\u003e lifts rust, scratches, dull spots and exhaust discolouration with ease.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-end=\"1209\" data-start=\"1073\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1209\" data-start=\"1075\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMade in Germany: \u003c\/strong\u003edeveloped, made and backed in Bavaria – with a money-back guarantee.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr data-end=\"1214\" data-start=\"1211\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"1271\" data-start=\"1216\"\u003eWhat you get from a shine with a \u003cstrong data-end=\"1271\" data-start=\"1253\"\u003emirror effect\u003c\/strong\u003e\n\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1776\" data-start=\"1273\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-end=\"1299\" data-start=\"1277\"\u003eS100 metal polish\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't just any polish – it's your route to a striking, high-gloss finish. Thanks to its special formula, corrosion marks and flash rust come off gently, without creating new scratches – because it doesn't cut aggressively, it works fine and easy. Exhausts in particular get their metallic shine back, streak-free. The result is a flawless mirror shine, like fresh from the factory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"1833\" data-start=\"1783\"\u003eWorks on every bare metal surface\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2259\" data-start=\"1835\"\u003eChromed exhaust, a frame gone matte or dull fairings – \u003cstrong data-end=\"1935\" data-start=\"1913\"\u003eS100 metal polish\u003c\/strong\u003e suits every smooth, unpainted metal part on your bike. It reliably clears dull spots and light scratches and really comes into its own on aluminium and chrome – perfect for frames, bars, mudguards and the like.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"2312\" data-start=\"2266\"\u003eQuality you can count on\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2805\" data-start=\"2314\"\u003eThis polish carries the \u003cstrong data-end=\"2364\" data-start=\"2345\"\u003eMade in Germany\u003c\/strong\u003e mark – developed, made and looked after at Dr. O.K. Wack in Bavaria. Dr. Wack is known as a technology leader in care chemistry, with plenty of test wins. The \u003cstrong data-end=\"2634\" data-start=\"2610\"\u003emoney-back guarantee\u003c\/strong\u003e lets you try it with zero worry – if you're not convinced, send back a tube up to 2\/3 used and you get your money back.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"S100\"","offers":[{"title":"100ml","offer_id":54707236634959,"sku":"D1-DRW-2405","price":14.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/S100-Metallpolitur-Tube-2022_1500px.png?v=1742507149"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-s100-motorrad-felgenreiniger-motorradpflege","title":"\"S100\" Motorcycle Wheel Cleaner for Motorbikes","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFor sparkling clean motorcycle wheels: the \"S100\" Motorcycle Wheel Cleaner from Dr. Wack\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"123\" data-end=\"280\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-start=\"4\" data-end=\"36\"\u003eS100 Motorcycle Wheel Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e from Dr. Wack is your go-to for shifting even the most stubborn grime, like baked-on chain lube and brake dust, with no fight.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eIts acid-free gel formula clings to the wheel face and works hard without attacking the material or finish.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003ePainted, anodised or high-gloss polished wheels – this cleaner leaves a flawless shine and takes a lot of the hassle out of looking after your bike.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-start=\"320\" data-end=\"564\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"320\" data-end=\"387\" class=\"\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"322\" data-end=\"387\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"322\" data-end=\"349\"\u003eWorks on its own:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003ePulls stubborn brake dust and chain lube off with no hand-scrubbing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"388\" data-end=\"454\" class=\"\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"390\" data-end=\"454\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"390\" data-end=\"416\"\u003eAcid-free gel formula:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eGentle on materials and finishes, but seriously effective.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"455\" data-end=\"564\" class=\"\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"457\" data-end=\"564\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"457\" data-end=\"480\"\u003eEasy to use:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eSpray on, let it work, rinse off – quick shine, no effort.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"566\" data-end=\"569\" class=\"\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"571\" data-end=\"625\" class=\"\"\u003eCuts through chain lube and brake dust\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"627\" data-end=\"832\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-start=\"4\" data-end=\"36\"\u003eS100 Motorcycle Wheel Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e was built specifically for the grime you get on bike wheels.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eFlung-off, dried-on chain lube and stubborn brake dust come away without a trace.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe gel formula lets the cleaner cling to the wheel and do its job properly instead of running straight off.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThat gets you a thorough clean, even in the spots you can barely reach.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"834\" data-end=\"880\" class=\"\"\u003eHow to use it for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"882\" data-end=\"1127\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eTo use the \u003cstrong data-start=\"22\" data-end=\"55\"\u003eS100 Motorcycle Wheel Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e, let the wheels cool down first.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThen spray it on generously and give it 3–5 minutes to work.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eOn really heavy grime or in cold weather, you can leave it on for up to 10 minutes.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eOnce it's had time to work, rinse the wheels down thoroughly with a strong jet of water.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eIf you need to, a sponge or brush helps things along.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"1129\" data-end=\"1175\" class=\"\"\u003eVersatile and easy on the material\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-start=\"4\" data-end=\"36\"\u003eS100 Motorcycle Wheel Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e suits a wide range of wheels, including painted and anodised aluminium and steel wheels, high-gloss and chrome wheels, plus high-gloss polished alloys.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eBecause it's acid-free, it's especially gentle and safe to use on delicate finishes.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eIt also goes a long way, so a little does the job.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"S100\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707236962639,"sku":"D1-DRW-2018","price":15.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 500ml","offer_id":54944386056527,"sku":"D1-DRW-2018_2","price":31.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 500ml","offer_id":54944386089295,"sku":"D1-DRW-2018_3","price":47.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"6x 500 ml","offer_id":54944386122063,"sku":"D1-DRW-2018_6","price":95.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-s100-motorrad-felgenreiniger-motorradpflege_500ml.png?v=1745091788"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-s100-motorrad-schnellreiniger-detailer-motorradpflege","title":"\"S100\" Motorcycle Quick Cleaner – Detailer for Bikes","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eWaterless cleaning for your bike with the \u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eDr. Wack \"S100\" Motorcycle Quick Cleaner\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"\" data-end=\"243\" data-start=\"86\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-end=\"46\" data-start=\"4\"\u003eDr. Wack S100 Motorcycle Quick Cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is the go-to for any rider who wants to clean their bike fast and fuss-free – no water at all.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eWhether after a quick blast or before your next ride out, this quick cleaner lifts off dirt, dust and even stubborn bug splatter with ease.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThanks to its special formula it cleans and cares in one step, leaving a protective shine on every surface.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-end=\"503\" data-start=\"266\"\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"\" data-end=\"331\" data-start=\"266\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"\" data-end=\"331\" data-start=\"268\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"293\" data-start=\"268\"\u003eWaterless application:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eNo water needed – just spray on and wipe off.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"\" data-end=\"396\" data-start=\"332\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"\" data-end=\"396\" data-start=\"334\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"358\" data-start=\"334\"\u003eEffective cleaning:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eLifts off even dried-on bug splatter and stubborn grime.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli class=\"\" data-end=\"503\" data-start=\"397\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"\" data-end=\"503\" data-start=\"399\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"421\" data-start=\"399\"\u003eCare and protection:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eConditions the surface and shields it from the weather.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr class=\"\" data-end=\"508\" data-start=\"505\"\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWaterless cleaning – fast and efficient\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"\" data-end=\"766\" data-start=\"565\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eWith the Dr. Wack S100 Motorcycle Quick Cleaner you can skip the trip to the wash bay.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eJust spray the bike, let it dwell for a moment and wipe it down with a microfibre cloth – done!\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003ePerfect for a quick clean between rides or out on the road.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe special formula breaks down dirt and bug splatter properly without harming the surface.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"ms-1 inline-flex max-w-full items-center relative top-[-0.094rem] animate-[show_150ms_ease-in]\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCleaning and care in one\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"\" data-end=\"1013\" data-start=\"808\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe S100 Motorcycle Quick Cleaner doesn't just clean – it cares at the same time.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eCare components seal the surface and build a protective film that keeps the weather out.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eUse it regularly and dirt grabs on less, which makes the next clean easier.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eIt also freshens up the colour, so your bike comes up looking like new again.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eVersatile and gentle on materials\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"\" data-end=\"1222\" data-start=\"1057\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003ePaint, plastic or metal – the S100 Motorcycle Quick Cleaner works on every motorbike surface, even matte paint and wraps.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003ePaired with the S100 DAS TUCH you get a scratch-free wipe-down every time.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eSo your bike stays not just clean, but in top shape.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"S100\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707237454159,"sku":"D1-DRW-2430","price":15.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 500ml","offer_id":54944501563727,"sku":"D1-DRW-2430_2","price":31.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 500ml","offer_id":54944501596495,"sku":"D1-DRW-2430_3","price":47.97,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"6x 500 ml","offer_id":54944501629263,"sku":"D1-DRW-2430_6","price":95.94,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"5,5 L","offer_id":58086426181967,"sku":"D1-DRW-2432","price":89.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-s100-motorrad-schnellreiniger-detailer-motorradpflege_500ml.png?v=1745094970"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-s100-motorrad-schnellwachs-motorradpflege","title":"\"S100\" Motorcycle Quick Wax for Motorcycles","description":"\u003ch2 data-end=\"112\" data-start=\"44\"\u003eDr. Wack \"S100\" Motorcycle Quick Wax – Motorcycle Sealant\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"174\" data-start=\"114\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-end=\"49\" data-start=\"8\"\u003eDr. Wack \"S100\" Motorcycle Quick Wax\u003c\/strong\u003e gets you a high-performance paint and plastic sealant in no time. The clever \u003cstrong data-end=\"168\" data-start=\"146\"\u003ehydrophobic formula\u003c\/strong\u003e gives you long-lasting beading, crystal-clear gloss and fresh colour – without any of the graft that polishing takes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-end=\"335\" data-start=\"212\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-end=\"253\" data-start=\"212\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"253\" data-start=\"214\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-is-only-node=\"\" data-end=\"28\" data-start=\"0\"\u003eDone in a flash:\u003c\/strong\u003e spray on, quick wipe – sorted! No long polishing sessions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-end=\"295\" data-start=\"254\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"295\" data-start=\"256\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-is-only-node=\"\" data-end=\"46\" data-start=\"0\"\u003eLong-lasting protection and a proper finish:\u003c\/strong\u003e gloss, fresh colour and a slick surface that holds up against the elements for months.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-end=\"335\" data-start=\"296\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"335\" data-start=\"298\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-is-only-node=\"\" data-end=\"26\" data-start=\"0\"\u003eWorks on everything:\u003c\/strong\u003e every paint type (metallic, nano, scratch-resistant, gloss wraps) and plastic parts – no streaks, no residue.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr data-end=\"340\" data-start=\"337\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"394\" data-start=\"342\"\u003eZero effort, thanks to the hydrophobic formula\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"627\" data-start=\"395\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe clever \u003cstrong data-end=\"37\" data-start=\"15\"\u003ehydrophobic formula\u003c\/strong\u003e in the \u003cstrong data-end=\"63\" data-start=\"42\"\u003eS100 Quick Wax\u003c\/strong\u003e lets you seal paint and plastic parts with barely any effort – a few minutes and you've got mirror gloss and silky surfaces, all streak-free\u003c\/span\u003e. \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eIt brings the colour depth back, and the \u003cstrong data-end=\"57\" data-start=\"40\"\u003ebeading effect\u003c\/strong\u003e – water just rolls straight off – keeps the weather and grime at bay for the long haul. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eIdeal for every paint type, metallic and wraps included\u003c\/span\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"672\" data-start=\"629\"\u003eSave yourself the time – perfect gloss in a minute\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"834\" data-start=\"673\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eS100 makes it easy: spray it on, spread it evenly with the \u003cstrong data-end=\"84\" data-start=\"42\"\u003eS100 DAS TUCH – premium microfibre cloth\u003c\/strong\u003e and wipe straight off – done! No waiting, no polishing. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eWhite streaks on plastic are off the table – the result is smooth, glossy and slick.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"887\" data-start=\"836\"\u003e\"Made in Germany\" quality, with awards to match\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"968\" data-start=\"888\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe S100 comes from Dr. O.K. Wack Chemie GmbH – research, production and customer service all under one roof in Bavaria – and stands for top-tier quality. It picked up the \u003cstrong data-end=\"209\" data-start=\"181\"\u003eMotorrad Best Brand 2023\u003c\/strong\u003e and the \u003cstrong data-end=\"263\" data-start=\"218\"\u003ePS sport motorrad magazin Best Brand 2023\u003c\/strong\u003e in the \u003cstrong data-end=\"322\" data-start=\"281\"\u003echain sprays \/ cleaning and care products\u003c\/strong\u003e category.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"S100\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707237847375,"sku":"D1-DRW-2440","price":18.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 500ml","offer_id":55724321440079,"sku":"D1-DRW-2440_2","price":37.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 500ml","offer_id":55724321472847,"sku":"D1-DRW-2440_3","price":56.97,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"6x 500 ml","offer_id":55724321505615,"sku":"D1-DRW-2440_6","price":113.94,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/S100-Mot-Schnellwachs-500ml_1500x1500_22a1e9f5-40e6-4db6-9fcb-130719ef1463.png?v=1742507192"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-s100-power-bike-shampoo-motorradpflege","title":"\"S100\" Power Bike Shampoo for Motorcycles","description":"\u003ch2 data-start=\"44\" data-end=\"81\"\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e2-in-1 motorcycle cleaner from \u003c\/span\u003eDr. Wack is the \"S100\" Power Bike Shampoo\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"83\" data-end=\"180\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eDr. Wack S100 Power Bike Shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e is a 2-in-1 motorcycle cleaner: pre-cleaner and shampoo in one. The new foam technology cleans hard but gentle through a micromechanical effect - without stripping any wax or sealant layers. Works on every kind of paint, surface and wrap. Made in Germany - proper quality out of Bavaria.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-start=\"209\" data-end=\"446\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"209\" data-end=\"288\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"211\" data-end=\"288\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"0\" data-end=\"41\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003eEffective foam-powered cleaning\u003c\/strong\u003e: dynamic foam bubbles lift dirt off the surface micromechanically and pull it away gently.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"ms-1 inline-flex max-w-full items-center relative top-[-0.094rem] animate-[show_150ms_ease-in]\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"289\" data-end=\"368\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"291\" data-end=\"368\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"0\" data-end=\"19\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003e2-in-1 function\u003c\/strong\u003e: cleaner and shampoo in one - quick, fuss-free and goes a long way.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"369\" data-end=\"446\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"371\" data-end=\"446\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"0\" data-end=\"35\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003eGentle on paint \u0026amp; sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e: perfect for every paint type (metallic, matt, wrap) - your wax or sealant layers stay put.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"448\" data-end=\"451\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"453\" data-end=\"505\"\u003eApplication \u0026amp; the micromechanical cleaning effect\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"506\" data-end=\"583\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThanks to the clever foam technology, dirt lifts away without harsh chemicals - the bubbles do the detail work as they move. The result: seriously strong cleaning that's still easy on the surface. You get a clean, glossy bike without touching your sealant or wax.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"ms-1 inline-flex max-w-full items-center relative top-[-0.094rem] animate-[show_150ms_ease-in]\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"585\" data-end=\"648\"\u003eVersatility and the \"Made in Germany\" quality promise\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"649\" data-end=\"728\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThis shampoo takes whatever paint and condition you throw at it - from as-new to badly weathered surfaces, matt or glossy wraps alike. Made and developed in Bavaria, Dr. Wack stands for top quality, solid research and customer-focused innovation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"730\" data-end=\"784\"\u003eEasy to use - for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"785\" data-end=\"864\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eDead simple: rinse off the loose dirt, then use it as a foam pre-cleaner or shampoo. For a wash, go with 1.5-3 capfuls per litre of water or per bucket, let it dwell (about 2-3 minutes), then rinse off. Best with a premium microfibre wash mitt or sponge - leaves a streak-free, gentle finish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"S100\"","offers":[{"title":"1000ml","offer_id":54707238437199,"sku":"D1-DRW-2025","price":24.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1000 mL","offer_id":55724245844303,"sku":"D1-DRW-2025_2","price":49.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1000 mL","offer_id":55724245877071,"sku":"D1-DRW-2025_3","price":74.97,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"6x 1000 ml","offer_id":55724245909839,"sku":"D1-DRW-2025_6","price":149.94,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/S100-Power-Bike-Shampoo-1L-2025_1500px.png?v=1742507208"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-s100-sitzbank-pflege-motorradpflege","title":"\"S100\" seat care for motorcycles","description":"\u003ch2 data-start=\"644\" data-end=\"730\"\u003eDr. Wack S100 seat care – your shortcut to a clean, well-kept motorcycle seat\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"732\" data-end=\"771\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4\" data-end=\"28\"\u003eS100 seat care\u003c\/strong\u003e makes it dead easy to keep your motorcycle seat clean, bring the colour back to life and keep the surface grippy – with extra UV protection against fading. Your seat wins on every front: material, looks and comfort in the saddle.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-start=\"803\" data-end=\"934\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"803\" data-end=\"846\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"805\" data-end=\"846\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"0\" data-end=\"20\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003eDeep-down clean\u003c\/strong\u003e – pulls deep-seated dirt out of plastic and leather for good\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"847\" data-end=\"890\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"849\" data-end=\"890\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"0\" data-end=\"21\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003eFeeds and protects\u003c\/strong\u003e – puts vital nutrients back into the material and stops it going brittle\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"891\" data-end=\"934\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"893\" data-end=\"934\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"0\" data-end=\"23\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003eUV protection built in\u003c\/strong\u003e – guards against fading from the sun\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"936\" data-end=\"939\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"947\" data-end=\"979\"\u003eCleaning \u0026amp; deep action\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"981\" data-end=\"1061\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4\" data-end=\"28\"\u003eS100 seat care\u003c\/strong\u003e lifts dirt right out of the seat material – plastic or leather, it makes no difference. The surface stays nicely grippy, so you keep a solid seat even when you push on. Using it couldn't be simpler: spray on, let it sit for a moment, then wipe off with a clean cloth. That's it – your seat comes up fresh and ready to ride.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"1063\" data-end=\"1090\"\u003eColour \u0026amp; flexibility\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1092\" data-end=\"1172\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eA real head-turner: the \u003cstrong data-start=\"26\" data-end=\"46\"\u003ecolour refresh\u003c\/strong\u003e brings dull, faded seats back to life. At the same time it feeds the material to stop it drying out and going brittle – for a supple surface that stays that way and won't let you down.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"1174\" data-end=\"1217\"\u003eUV protection \u0026amp; Made in Germany quality\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1219\" data-end=\"1299\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eWith its built-in \u003cstrong data-start=\"24\" data-end=\"37\"\u003eUV protection\u003c\/strong\u003e, \u003cstrong data-start=\"50\" data-end=\"74\"\u003eS100 seat care\u003c\/strong\u003e shields your material from sun and fading over the long haul – exactly what you want if you spend your days riding in the sun. And \"Made in Germany\" says it all on quality: research, development, production and service all come out of Bavaria – with awards to show for it, like \"Motorrad Best Brand 2023\".\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"S100\"","offers":[{"title":"100ml","offer_id":54707239846223,"sku":"D1-DRW-2130","price":8.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 100 ml","offer_id":55725349470543,"sku":"D1-DRW-2130_2","price":17.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 100 ml","offer_id":55725349503311,"sku":"D1-DRW-2130_3","price":26.97,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"12x 100 ml","offer_id":55725349536079,"sku":"D1-DRW-2130_12","price":107.88,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/S100-SBP-100ml_1500x1500_bbbd2949-2843-42d3-8163-d13836c06f8d.png?v=1742507230"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-s100-total-reiniger-plus-reiniger-motorradpflege","title":"\"S100\" Total Reiniger Plus Cleaner for Motorcycles","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"0\" data-end=\"84\" data-is-last-node=\"\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003eThe motorcycle cleaner with self-drying effect is the \u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"0\" data-end=\"84\" data-is-last-node=\"\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003eDr. Wack \"S100\" Total Reiniger Plus \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"123\" data-end=\"280\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-start=\"4\" data-end=\"41\"\u003eDr. Wack S100 Total Reiniger Plus\u003c\/strong\u003e is a clever motorcycle cleaner with a gel formula that strips even stubborn dirt like bug splatter, oil and grease without any effort.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThanks to the new formula it dries spot-free with no need to chamois off, and it stays gentle on sensitive surfaces like uncoated powder-coat finishes.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eUsing it is simple: spray on, let it dwell and rinse off – no buffing afterwards.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-start=\"303\" data-end=\"571\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"303\" data-end=\"377\" class=\"\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"305\" data-end=\"377\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"305\" data-end=\"339\"\u003eSelf-drying, no chamois needed:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eSaves time and stops water spots.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"378\" data-end=\"460\" class=\"\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"380\" data-end=\"460\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"380\" data-end=\"422\"\u003eGentle on sensitive surfaces:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eIdeal for matte paint and wraps.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"461\" data-end=\"571\" class=\"\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"463\" data-end=\"571\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"463\" data-end=\"487\"\u003eEffective cleaning:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eLifts even stubborn dirt with no effort.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"573\" data-end=\"576\" class=\"\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"578\" data-end=\"632\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"582\" data-end=\"632\"\u003eEffective cleaning with a clever gel formula\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"634\" data-end=\"839\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe gel formula of the \u003cstrong data-start=\"19\" data-end=\"47\"\u003eS100 Total Reiniger Plus\u003c\/strong\u003e gives you great coverage and real cleaning power.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eIt clings to the surface and pulls even stubborn dirt like bug splatter, oil and grease out.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eOn top of that the cleaner is completely acid-free, so it's especially easy on your materials.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eUsing it is simple: spray on, let it dwell and rinse off – no buffing afterwards.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"841\" data-end=\"894\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"845\" data-end=\"894\"\u003eGentle care for every motorcycle surface\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"896\" data-end=\"1061\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eGlossy paint, matte finishes or wraps – the \u003cstrong data-start=\"61\" data-end=\"89\"\u003eS100 Total Reiniger Plus\u003c\/strong\u003e works across the board.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThanks to the new formula it's especially gentle on sensitive surfaces and keeps water spots from forming.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eSo your bike doesn't just come out clean – it keeps its shine and value for the long run.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"ms-1 inline-flex max-w-full items-center relative top-[-0.094rem] animate-[show_150ms_ease-in]\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"1063\" data-end=\"1118\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1067\" data-end=\"1118\"\u003eHandy use with the upside-down spray head\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1120\" data-end=\"1285\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-start=\"4\" data-end=\"32\"\u003eS100 Total Reiniger Plus\u003c\/strong\u003e now comes with a handy upside-down spray head too.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eThat way you reach the awkward spots on your bike with no effort.\u003c\/span\u003e \u003cspan class=\"relative -mx-px my-[-0.2rem] rounded px-px py-[0.2rem] transition-colors duration-100 ease-in-out\"\u003eSo the job gets even simpler and more effective – for a bike that's clean all over.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"S100\"","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml (Anniversary Edition 2025)","offer_id":54943728369999,"sku":"D1-DRW-2013","price":19.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"750ml","offer_id":54707244433743,"sku":"D1-DRW-2015","price":19.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 750ml","offer_id":54943728402767,"sku":"D1-DRW-2015_2","price":39.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 750 ml","offer_id":54943728435535,"sku":"D1-DRW-2015_3","price":59.97,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2 liters","offer_id":54707244499279,"sku":"D1-DRW-2031","price":32.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":54707244532047,"sku":"D1-DRW-2032","price":339.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"100 ml","offer_id":58086426509647,"sku":"D1-DRW-2003","price":5.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"5 L","offer_id":58086426837327,"sku":"D1-DRW-2030","price":79.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-s100-total-reiniger-plus-motorrad-reiniger-trockenwaesche_1000ml.png?v=1745073809"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/collections\/dr-wack.png?v=1755008922","url":"https:\/\/detiiling1.com\/collections\/dr-wack.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}