{"title":"Degreasing \u0026 prepping leather — COLOURLOCK","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eDegrease leather so the next layer has something to hold on to\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fold a stack of white cloths into clear panels before you start. After every pass you move onto an unused face and fold the dirty one outwards, so the skin oil you just lifted never lands back where you started. Compare that last cloth against the surface only once the leather has flashed off – that pause is what stops you charging on too early.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDegreasing leather\u003c\/strong\u003e means pulling grease, care products and any other adhesion-killing residue out of the planned repair zone far enough that the next system step lands on a surface you can reproduce. The hide does not have to end up bleached out or rough for that. Once it has flashed off it should read clean, even and free of any greasy film.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eClean and grease-free are two different findings.\u003c\/strong\u003e A panel can look perfectly tidy and still carry skin oil or a care film.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe cloth is your measuring tool.\u003c\/strong\u003e White faces, swapped often, show you what is actually coming out of the zone and when you are only spreading residue around.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFlashing off is part of the check.\u003c\/strong\u003e While the leather is damp and dark you cannot read evenness, gloss or adhesion with any confidence.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eDegreasing is a technical handover between cleaning and repair. A clearly bounded work area, a constant supply of fresh cloth faces and the check after flash-off decide whether glue, filler, colour or finish find a surface that will hold. COLOURLOCK Degreaser lifts residue out of that adhesion zone; Licker Oil does the opposite job later on and feeds oil back in.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eClean or grease-free: what does the basic clean actually show?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA steering wheel, a headrest or a seat bolster rarely carries grease on its own. Dust, dead skin, dye off clothing and old care products build a mixed layer. The right basic clean takes the visible dirt off first. Only on a clean, dry panel can you see whether a contact zone still reads greasy, whether a cloth picks up a smeary residue, or whether the repair you are planning needs a separate degreasing step. That split protects the material: if the degreaser had to do the whole cleaning job as well, it would be working through loose soil and dragging lifted grime much further than it needs to go. It runs the other way round too – a leather cleaner on its own is not always enough ahead of a colour or glue repair. Its job is cleanliness; the adhesion zone asks for more than that, with nothing left behind and an even surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCheck as well whether that supposed grease mark is grease at all. A bare patch can simply be finish that has worn through. Dark edges can flag moisture, dye transfer or an older repair. If the area dries evenly after cleaning but stays smooth and lighter than its surroundings, what is missing is probably surface, not cleanliness. More degreasing brings no colour back and it does not rebuild the grain.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMaterial type stays the first filter. Smooth leather, open-pored hides and buffed surfaces all take liquid differently. The live product listing has \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-colourlock-degreaser-leder-entfetter\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK Degreaser\u003c\/a\u003e down as a solvent-free degreaser for surface prep across leather types. For the panel in front of you, what counts is still the test patch, the current product instructions and the question of which repair step comes next.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA hidden test patch gets exactly the same run as the visible zone later on: pre-clean, dry, degrease, then let it flash off completely. Only then do you compare colour, feel and whatever the cloth picked up. If the leather shifts in a way you did not expect, or the coating that is on there starts to lift, you go looking for the cause. Laying it on heavier or more often is not a diagnosis.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWork zones stop lifted grease from simply moving house\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDegreasing works by carrying residue away. The product lifts or mobilises it, and the clean cloth takes it out of the surface. Keep the same saturated face in play and all it does is push the stuff into the panel next door. So plan several small, overlapping passes and change the cloth well before it looks properly dirty.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the field ends depends on the part and on the repair. On a small colour touch-up you do not prep only the pale middle – the blend-out you have planned has to be clean and even too. At the same time there is no reason to soak a whole seat panel when you are working one limited zone. On seams, perforation and material changes you go very light on liquid.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePut the product on the tool, never straight onto the hide. Work without leaning on it. The mechanical side is there to help lift residue away, not to sand off the colour that is already there. If the cloth shows pigment, that can point to a loose or damaged coating. At that point you judge separately whether you are taking off dirt, an old colour coat or the original finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFresh cloths have to be genuinely free of detergent, softener and old care residue. Gloves and containers stay clean too. Silicone-based care sitting in an applicator you have already used can put back exactly the film your prep is meant to remove. On a professional repair, cleaning, degreasing, colour and finish tools stay strictly apart.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRun the passes in an order you can retrace. Start at the edge of the repair zone and work towards the harder-worked middle, without ever coming back over it with the dirty cloth. Where grease has soaked in deep, one pass may not do it. Whether a second round makes sense is something you judge after a full flash-off, though – not off the shiny film you see while you are working.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDegreaser and Licker Oil sit on opposite sides of the plan\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe two products in this collection are deliberately doing different jobs. COLOURLOCK Degreaser preps a surface for the repair steps that follow. \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-colourlock-licker-oil-rueckfetter-ledervorbereitung\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK Licker Oil\u003c\/a\u003e feeds oil back in as part of professional leather prep. There is no contradiction in that, as long as the findings decide which problem gets treated and when.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePulling grease out can be what adhesion needs, while very dry, hardened leather may need oil put back in inside a properly planned build. Those two jobs do not happen at the same time, not alternately by feel, and not on the same unchecked zone. The repair plan has to settle whether feeding oil back in suits the job at all, where it sits in the sequence, and how you get back to a surface that will carry further layers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo Licker Oil is not the thing you reach for to “even out” what the degreaser just did. A freshly degreased panel can look different for a while, as long as it has not flashed off. Add oil at that moment and you undo the prep and make any later fault-finding much harder. You let the surface dry off in peace, then carry on down the route the system lays out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEqually, Degreaser is not a general final clean for every well-kept hide. With no glue, filler, colour or finish step planned, there is usually no reason to strip grease out of an intact surface on purpose. Routine care, stain removal and repair prep are separate jobs. This collection puts the two professional prep steps in order; it is not asking you to buy both or to lay them on one after the other.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn unknown history raises the risk. Furniture polish, leather balm, dashboard spray or an earlier colour correction all leave different residue behind. Write down what you do know, and test the full planned build on a hidden patch. Adhesion is not something you can guarantee from the look of a freshly degreased panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe flashed-off surface gives you three signals\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe first signal is evenness. While you work, damp leather usually goes darker. Only when it is dry can you see whether the zone reacts evenly or whether patches stay saturated, blotchy or shiny. A dark core can point to residue sitting deeper; a pale edge can come just as easily from uneven moisture or from damaged colour. Both readings call for a check rather than a quick coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe second signal comes off the white test cloth. It is not meant as an aggressive rub test. With gentle, even contact it shows whether the dry zone still gives up a smeary layer or noticeable colour. A pigmented cloth is no proof that grease is left. It can mean the colour coat on there is unstable and the rest of the build needs replanning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe third signal is the feel. The prepped zone should not come up tacky or oily. It does not have to end up artificially hard and dull either. An unusually dry, chalky or brittle feel is no badge of especially thorough work. What you want is a consistent surface that suits the system you have chosen and whose original substance has not been weakened for nothing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou do not force flash-off with hot air. Heat can change leather, adhesive, foam and old coating in different ways and skew what you are reading. Give it normal air movement and stick to what the product says. Seams and perforation want extra attention, because liquid can travel into deeper layers there, where you cannot see it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnly once all three signals stack up does the next step follow. That might be primer, glue, filler, colour or another part of the matched repair build. The degreasing itself is invisible at the end – its value shows in a surface that was prepped evenly and in a way you can account for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAcetone and brake cleaner are no shortcut on leather\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHeavy-duty solvents look tempting because they cut through grease fast. On leather, though, they can hit finish, colour coat, fibre and bonded seams in ways you did not plan for. Brake cleaner, acetone or some unknown universal thinner replace neither a material check nor a product meant for the job. A surface that goes matt in seconds tells you nothing about whether it is still stable or compatible with the next layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHousehold fixes bring unclear residue with them too. Washing-up liquid, alcohol mixes, furniture cleaner and wet wipes can leave surfactants, fragrance or care substances behind. Ahead of a professional colour repair especially, “feels clean” is not enough. Every unknown ingredient adds one more possible cause if primer or colour later refuses to sit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eToo much liquid is a risk in its own right. It can travel through seams and perforation into the foam or backing, push dirt deeper and drag drying times out. More product does not improve the lift if no clean cloth is there to take the loosened residue away. Sparing passes with frequent tool changes are far easier to steer than soaking a whole panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe damage itself sets the last limit. An open airbag seam, a structural tear, fibre that is falling apart or an old coating flaking off across a wide area are not made repairable by degreasing. Deep, recurring grease coming from inside may need a professional assessment as well. Getting the surface clean once is not enough if the residue keeps migrating back out of the construction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStop as well on any unexpected reaction: heavy colour loss, a tacky coating, hardening, swelling or an edge that stays dark for good. You write those signs down instead of hiding them under the next layer. Calling it off at the test patch keeps the door open to fixing the real problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe payoff only shows up in the repair build that follows\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA degreased panel is not a finished result on its own. It is a defined handover to the next step. Before that handover, check the work area, the edges and the neighbouring materials one more time. Loose fibres, dust or fingerprints do not become harmless because you degreased carefully beforehand. Touch the zone only with clean gloves and clean tools.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWrite down the sequence, especially on bigger or multi-day projects. Which zone got treated, and how often? Where did colour come off? Which area still looked odd after flash-off? Those notes stop you pinning an adhesion failure on whichever product happened to go on last. A repairable system only stays readable if the prep and the interim findings are known.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn the colour or glue build that follows, the first small zone stays a technical test. If it shows rejection, bubbles or patchy bonding, you do not carry on across the whole panel. The cause can be leftover residue, an unstable old coating or a build that does not suit the job. Another degreasing round would be blind at that point; the finding needs a fresh diagnosis.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe area around the work stays free of spray care, polish and oily hands as well. A freshly prepped surface can be contaminated again by fine overspray or a single touch. Mask off neighbouring parts properly, keep used cloths separate, and open the next product only once the adhesion zone has passed its check.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe guide to the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-ratgeber-leder-aufbereiten\"\u003efull leather build\u003c\/a\u003e and the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-faerben\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK colour world\u003c\/a\u003e put the follow-on steps in order; the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK brand world\u003c\/a\u003e ties prep, repair and care together. Degreasing leather therefore does not end at a panel that is merely “extra clean”. The last white cloth, the dry feel and the documented material reaction together make the handover: a known, clearly marked adhesion zone where the next system step can start on solid ground.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","products":[{"product_id":"koch-chemie-colourlock-licker-oil-rueckfetter-ledervorbereitung","title":"COLOURLOCK \"Licker Oil\" leather fatliquor for leather prep before professional repair","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCOLOURLOCK Licker Oil — leather fatliquor for professional leather prep\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is COLOURLOCK Licker Oil used for? — The fatliquor makes dry, hard or brittle leather supple again, strengthens the fibres and improves prep for repairs, filling work and colour application.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCOLOURLOCK Licker Oil\u003c\/strong\u003e is the professional fatliquor for prepping aged, dried-out or hardened leather. Hard-worked car seats, brittle furniture surfaces, old bags or saddle areas all benefit from the deep re-oiling that gets the leather fibres flexible again. Licker Oil makes sure repair materials like filler, binder or leather colour grab better and lay down more evenly. It's a key step when you want long-lasting results on leather that's gone structurally weak.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDeep-acting re-oiling\u003c\/strong\u003e – Gets hard, dry leather supple again and cuts the risk of cracking.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSmooths out repair work\u003c\/strong\u003e – Improves how filler, binder and colour grab and spread.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIdeal for aged leather\u003c\/strong\u003e – Perfect for automotive, furniture, saddles, bags \u0026amp; accessories.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eRe-oiling technology \u0026amp; how it works in the leather\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLicker Oil\u003c\/strong\u003e works its way deep into the leather structure and reactivates dried-out fibres that have lost their elasticity over the years. The re-oiling components settle into the gaps between the fibres and bring back the natural suppleness, without darkening the leather too much. On older automotive leather that's turned brittle especially, the fatliquor lowers the risk of cracks forming during mechanical repair work. The fibres get more flexible and more receptive, which makes the whole repair more stable and longer-lasting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePrep, application \u0026amp; the best way to use it before repairs\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore you apply it, give the leather a thorough prep with a suitable cleaner so the re-oiling components can soak in evenly. You lay \u003cstrong\u003eLicker Oil\u003c\/strong\u003e down in a thin coat and work it in with light pressure. After a short dwell time the oil soaks deep in and leaves a noticeably softer surface. Depending on the state of the leather, you can repeat the process. Only once the leather is flexible again do you start the structural repair: smooth the filler, lay down the colour, seal the surface. Licker Oil clearly improves every step that follows.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eResults, use cases \u0026amp; how it differs from a softener\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter treatment the leather feels much more supple, more elastic and more receptive to products like filler, binder or colour. \u003cstrong\u003eLicker Oil\u003c\/strong\u003e is perfect for old, dry or brittle leather in vehicles, furniture, bags, jackets and saddles. Unlike a softener such as Old Leather Softener, Licker Oil works more as a re-oiling prep and less as a long-term flexibiliser. It's the ideal first step before heavy repair work, where stability and suppleness make all the difference.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon questions about COLOURLOCK Licker Oil\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eWhen do I use Licker Oil?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore repairs, when leather is hard, dry or brittle and needs to get flexible again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDoes Licker Oil darken the leather?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnly slightly. The effect is far smaller than with a lot of classic oils.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan I repair right after?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYes, as soon as the oil has soaked in and the surface feels dry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eIs it suitable for all leather types?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIdeal for pigmented leather, finished smooth leather and many saddle and furniture leathers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDo I also need a softener?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnly with very hard, brittle leather – then combine Licker Oil and Old Leather Softener.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003csmall\u003eLast updated: 09.12.2025 — Author: Daniel (Detailing1)\u003c\/small\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie × COLOURLOCK","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":56584343814479,"sku":"D1-KCX-618-1L-01","price":48.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250ml","offer_id":56584343847247,"sku":"D1-KCX-618-250ML-01","price":23.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/618-1L-01_1.png?v=1765302805"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-colourlock-degreaser-leder-entfetter","title":"COLOURLOCK \"Degreaser\" Solvent-Free Leather Degreaser for Surface Prep on All Leather Types","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCOLOURLOCK Degreaser — solvent-free degreaser for leather\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is COLOURLOCK Degreaser for? — The solvent-free degreaser gently pulls skin oils, dirt films and product residue off leather and improves adhesion for repairs, dyeing and sealing.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCOLOURLOCK Degreaser\u003c\/strong\u003e is an effective, solvent-free degreaser for prepping leather and faux leather before repairs, colour refreshes or sealing. It reliably lifts skin oils, dirt films, leftover care product and light oil traces — especially on high-contact spots like seat bolsters, steering wheels, armrests, furniture edges, bags or grab zones. The formula is strong but gentle, so it works on more delicate leather too without drying out or damaging the material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSolvent-free degreasing\u003c\/strong\u003e – Lifts oils \u0026amp; residue without stressing the leather.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDials in adhesion\u003c\/strong\u003e – Perfect prep for filler, colour and top coat.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks across the board\u003c\/strong\u003e – Suits automotive, furniture, fashion \u0026amp; accessory leather.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eDegreasing technology \u0026amp; how it works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDegreaser\u003c\/strong\u003e uses modern surfactants that pull oils and polymer residue out of the leather surface without attacking the coating. On spots that take a beating from skin contact, a thorough degrease is what makes or breaks the job: filler, colour and top coat only hold long-term on grease-free surfaces. The Degreaser flashes off streak-free, leaves no residue and gives you an even, well-keying surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eApplication, lay-down \u0026amp; best practices\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore you start, give the leather a rough clean. You apply \u003cstrong\u003eDegreaser\u003c\/strong\u003e sparingly to a cloth or pad and work it into the surface under control. Loosened oils and residue get picked up or wiped off with a clean cloth. On heavily loaded spots you can go over it again. The key bit: let the leather dry fully before you lay down filler, binder or colour. That gives you a perfect keying base for a repair or colour finish that lasts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eResults, uses \u0026amp; benefits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter treatment the surface comes up clean, matte and fully degreased. \u003cstrong\u003eDegreaser\u003c\/strong\u003e is ideal for automotive interiors, furniture, bags, shoes and accessories — anywhere oils and residue could drag down repair quality. It's not a stain remover for oils soaked deep into the leather, but a pro prep tool for reliable leather restoration.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon questions about COLOURLOCK Degreaser\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan I use Degreaser on all leather types?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn pigmented leather and many faux leathers, yes. Not suitable for aniline or suede leather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDoes Degreaser remove deep oil stains?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo, only surface oils. Deep oil stains need specialist products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eWhy does degreasing matter so much before repairs?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOils block adhesion. Filler \u0026amp; colour only hold reliably on a clean, matte surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan I use Degreaser before dyeing?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYes, it's actually recommended for the best colour bond.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDoes Degreaser attack the colour?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo, it's solvent-free and very gentle on the material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003csmall\u003eLast updated: 11\/12\/2025 — Author: Daniel (Detailing1)\u003c\/small\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie × COLOURLOCK","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":56584519123279,"sku":"D1-KCX-607-1L-01","price":38.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250ml","offer_id":56584519188815,"sku":"D1-KCX-607-250ML-01","price":17.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"100ml","offer_id":56584519156047,"sku":"D1-KCX-607-100ML-01","price":8.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/607-1L-01_1.png?v=1765306407"}],"url":"https:\/\/detiiling1.com\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-ratgeber-leder-entfetten.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}