{"title":"Washing leather — machine, fur \u0026 colour protection — COLOURLOCK","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eWashing leather starts long before the hand bath or the machine\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWashing leather\u003c\/strong\u003e means a full wet clean of a leather or fur item that is cleared for it, using a suitable wash system. It is a different job from damp surface cleaning, because the water reaches the hide itself, the lining, the stitching and any glued joints. Washability is a property of that particular item, then, not a general property of leather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003col\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eClearance beats the stain.\u003c\/strong\u003e A filthy item does not become washable just because it is filthy; the label and the way it is built come first.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eColour needs a test of its own.\u003c\/strong\u003e Multi-coloured panels, contrast stitching and open-pored leather can release dye in water or hand it straight to the panel next door.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDrying is shaping work.\u003c\/strong\u003e Wet leather dries slowly and away from strong heat, and while it dries you keep flexing it and coaxing it back into the shape it is meant to hold.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eOnly leather and fur items that are expressly washable belong in the water in one piece. Care label, material mix, glued joints and colour fastness decide between a hand bath, a delicate cycle or surface cleaning alone. COLOURLOCK Leather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate handles the wash itself; the Leather Wash Set adds a colour fixative. After that, slow drying with repeated shaping is what decides whether the leather stays supple.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Photograph the jacket, glove or fur flat from both sides before you wash it, and on clothing measure one obvious run — sleeve length or waistband width. Lay the zips and any removable parts next to it. That reference shows you distortion while the piece is still drying – long before it turns into a job you can only fight back into shape.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCan this piece really go into the water in one go?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most important washing step happens without any water. Read the care label and the maker's notes end to end. Check the outer material, the lining, appliqués, armour pockets, zips, glued joints and reinforcements. A washable leather shell can sit over a lining that is not washable, or over an insert that hates water. At that point the most delicate component picks the method.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSeparate what comes off from what is built in, too. A leather jacket, a removable sheepskin cover or gloves that are cleared for it can be candidates for a wash system. A car seat, a sofa, a bonded door card and a steering wheel never get soaked. There, surface cleaning that suits the material plus slow drying stays the right route.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHistory counts. Old repair colour, an unknown waterproofing, hardened zones or joints that have already let go can behave very differently in a wash than intact original material. Open the pockets, check the hems and look at the cut edges. If colour rubs off while the piece is still dry, or the leather cracks when you flex it gently, a full wet treatment is not a safe first move.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith fur, the hair side and the leather side get judged separately. The hair can be dirty or matted while the skin side is dry and stiff. The two are one construction and still react differently. Any old wool detergent is aimed at the fibre; a leather and fur wash concentrate is placed against the combined job. You still need the specific clearance for that item.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA missing label is not a quiet yes to the machine. Valuable, historic, heavily multi-coloured or irreplaceable pieces belong in professional hands whenever the build is unclear. A hidden test can show you colour fastness, but it cannot reliably tell you how lining, glue and the whole cut will behave through a complete wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eColour fastness gets tested at every critical combination\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePress a damp white cloth gently onto a hidden spot. If colour comes across, you write the finding down — you do not simply wash more dilute or hotter. On multi-coloured items every colour pairing wants attention: a dark appliqué on a pale ground, a strong lining under open-pored leather or contrast stitching can all carry dye into the zone next door.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDo not sharpen the test by rubbing hard. That would lift mechanically weak colour as well, which tells you nothing about a normal wash. The point is to catch an early warning. And the damp spot only gets judged once it is dry. Some leathers darken temporarily with water; a ring that stays, or colour that is gone, is a different thing from that normal wet look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-colourlock-leather-wash-set\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK Leather Wash Set\u003c\/a\u003e pairs the wash concentrate with a colour fixative for leather washing, going by the live product description. That does not mean a fixing bath makes every colour washfast. The fixative is one component of a system, used in line with the product instructions and with what your test showed; it cannot turn a construction that was never cleared into a washable one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGet the item fully ready before it goes near the bath. Take out loose objects, close or secure the fittings the way the care instructions ask, and lift dry surface dirt carefully. A heavily worn collar or cuff may want a targeted pre-treatment. Keep random stain sprays out of it — nobody knows how their residues react with the leather, the colour or the wash system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWrite the colour test down. A one-line note saying “black trim bleeds slightly” is worth more later on than whatever you think you remember. Leather items do not get casually thrown in with the rest of the laundry. Keeping them separate keeps transferred colour, metal fittings and a different wash chemistry away from your textiles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe concentrate and the wash set solve two jobs of different size\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-colourlock-leather-fur-wash-concentrate-waschkonzentrat\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK Leather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e is the wash concentrate assigned to leather and fur. It does the actual cleaning inside the wash routine it was made for. Dosage, dwell time and wash method are not guessed from a general guide — you take them from the current product description and from what the item itself is cleared for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Leather Wash Set builds a colour-protection step onto that core. So it fits a job where you have to plan for possible colour migration as well as dirt. A single-colour item with proven colour fastness and a multi-coloured piece with delicate transitions are not the same task. Your choice follows the colour test, not the idea that a set is automatically “stronger”.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBoth products are meant for a defined wet treatment. Neither replaces a repair. An open seam, cracked hide, flaking coating or a fur backing that is falling apart does not get stable through washing. In water those weak spots often show up in full for the first time. Findings like that get repaired first, or looked at by someone who knows the material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOrdinary laundry detergent is not a neutral stand-in. It is formulated to clean textiles and it can work against the fats in the leather, the colour and the feel. Wool detergent is still a textile detergent, even though fur has a wool side. The whole piece includes the tanned hide, and the hide has to come out of it as a hide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeave the fabric softener, the household oils and the fragrance boosters out. They leave residues behind, they can move colour and they make later care harder. A wash system does not get more complete the more extras you throw at it. Every component needs a clear job and has to get along with the leather, the fur, the lining and whatever care follows.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMachine washing: how low can you keep the load?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf the maker's label and the product notes allow a machine wash, you pick a delicate or wool cycle. For the Leather Wash Set, the live product description names a machine leather wash at 35 degrees. That figure does not carry over to other products or to an item with a different label. Where the care clearance is stricter, the lower or gentler figure wins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA hard spin twists wet leather, loads the seams and can throw heavy parts against the drum. So you keep the mechanical side as small as you can. Metal fittings and zips get secured the way the item's instructions say, so they damage neither the leather nor the machine. A heavy fur or a big jacket needs room; an overloaded drum cleans unevenly and kinks the material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHand washing runs on the same thinking. You wet the item evenly and move it gently — you do not wring out one corner or scrub the wet skin side with a brush. Rinsing carries off the loosened dirt and the detergent residues without twisting the leather. The exact sequence follows the product and the item.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe wet colour is not the verdict. Leather and fur look darker, the hair can lie flat and the surface can seem smoother at first. While it washes, look only for the acute warning signs: heavy colour running out, layers letting go, seams popping or a tacky coating. When one of those shows up, more detergent is not the fix.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the last rinse or programme step, the surplus water comes off gently. No wringing, no twisting and no “pre-drying” with fierce heat. Wide towels can take water up, as long as the product and item instructions allow it. From there the shaping and drying phase starts straight away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSlow drying is where the leather gets its movement back\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLay wet leather on a suitable surface, or position it however the construction allows. A radiator, a hot hair dryer or strong sun dry it fast and unevenly. The outside can feel dry already while the seams, the lining or the thick zones still hold moisture. Normal air movement and time are far easier to steer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompare the shape against your photos and the measurements you took at the start. Smooth the hems, straighten sleeves or shafts and ease the item back into its natural geometry. That happens in a lot of small corrections, not one firm pull. Wet leather is heavy and will deform under its own weight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs the hide dries, you keep flexing it gently. Working it, bending it and stretching it in the directions it was built to move keeps the fibres looser. On fur the hair side gets tidied gently too, without attacking the still-damp skin with a brush. How firmly you go at it depends on the thickness and on the item.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is no fixed clock on that flexing. Thin gloves dry differently than a dense fur or a lined jacket. So check the feel, the shape and any residual damp at intervals. As long as cool or darker zones still point at moisture, the item does not get stored, worn or sealed under a final care product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith fur, the back deserves the same attention as the hair. A fluffy look on the surface tells you nothing about whether the hide underneath is drying hard. Spread the piece so you can see both sides, loosen the construction carefully and keep sharp folds out of it. Matted hair does not get ripped out of skin that is still wet; the finishing fur work only starts once the piece has dried far enough for it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLined garments stay damp at the pockets, the cuffs and the thick seams a lot longer than the big leather panels do. Turn or position the item only in the way its construction allows, and make sure air actually reaches those zones. Closed storage right now is the worst move going: damp left in the lining can turn into a smell while the outside already looks dry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnce it is dry through, the leather shows you what you got. Now you judge colour, measurements, feel, seams and the structure of the fur. A suitable follow-up care step may well be needed, but it is not something you rush onto damp material. It follows the type of leather and the product instructions; an oil or a cream does not go on simply because the item has been washed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuilt-in or unstable leather stays out of the wash\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCar seats, steering wheels, fixed upholstery and bonded interior parts get cleaned on the surface. Soaking them through would reach the foam, the sensors, the glue and backs you cannot get at. The visible leather cover may look tough, but the construction as a whole was never built as a washable garment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIrreplaceable vintage pieces, exotic leathers, painted surfaces and unknown tannages deserve a specialist look as well. A small colour-fastness test does not cover every risk in a full wash. Valuable patina, historic linings and old stitching can be changed by water in ways you cannot undo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf a smell is coming out of the lining, the foam or a cavity, washing only helps when that source is reachable and the whole item is cleared. Storing it damp after an incomplete dry makes the problem worse. With suspected mould, active damp or contaminated padding, you do not start a wash cycle and hope.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor plain leather surfaces, \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-reinigung\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK leather cleaning\u003c\/a\u003e points you at the right cleaners. Questions about smells are sorted by source in the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-ratgeber-ledergeruch\"\u003eguide to leather odour and interiors\u003c\/a\u003e. In the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK brand world\u003c\/a\u003e you will find care and protection for the dry step that follows.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA leather wash that works is a carefully planned project: prove the washability, check the colour risk, pick the system that belongs to it, keep the mechanical load small and shape the wet leather patiently. Where one of those is missing, surface cleaning protects the item better than a full wash ever will.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWashing leather has only worked when the item comes back to its measurements after drying through, the seams sit quiet and the material goes along with the movement it was built for. Those three findings close the wash out. A merely clean wet state does not. Read the construction first and shape it patiently afterwards, and you keep not just colour and feel but the whole piece's ability to be looked after later on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","products":[{"product_id":"koch-chemie-colourlock-leather-fur-wash-concentrate-waschkonzentrat","title":"COLOURLOCK \"Leather \u0026 Fur Wash Concentrate\" wash concentrate for leather and fur","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCOLOURLOCK Leather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate — specialised wash concentrate for leather \u0026amp; fur\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is COLOURLOCK Leather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate for? — The concentrate cleans washable leather and fur items gently in the machine or by hand, keeps them supple and stops leather going hard, dull or blotchy after washing.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCOLOURLOCK Leather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro answer when you want to clean washable leather and fur items safely — from motorbike gear and leather clothing through to sheepskin pieces. Where regular detergents dry leather out, strip its oils or leave it stiff, this concentrate stabilises the leather structure, cleans thoroughly and keeps the natural suppleness. Spot-on for fashion, equestrian use, furniture covers, accessories and anything that's clearly marked as washable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGentle cleaning\u003c\/strong\u003e – Pulls out dirt, odours and body oils without harming the leather.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eKeeps it supple\u003c\/strong\u003e – Stops the hardening or warping you get from washing leather the wrong way.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMade for leather \u0026amp; fur\u003c\/strong\u003e – Perfect for sheepskin, shearling, leather clothing and mixed materials.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCleaning chemistry \u0026amp; how it works on leather and fur\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLeather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate\u003c\/strong\u003e is built on especially mild, leather-friendly surfactants that lift dirt without stripping the oily structures in leather and fur. What sets real leather apart from textile is its natural fibre structure, which reacts touchily to water and temperature swings. The concentrate steadies the oils and the moisture balance in the material, stops it shrinking and keeps the elasticity — key for sheepskin, fur linings and nappa leather. According to the maker, the formula is designed not to \"flood\" the leather's capillaries, so you don't end up with hard edges, wash marks or stiff patches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePrep, dosing \u0026amp; the right way to wash\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore you reach for \u003cstrong\u003eLeather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate\u003c\/strong\u003e, check the item is rated \"washable\" — for the leather as well as the fur. Brush off loose dirt first. For machine washing, pick a gentle programme with a low temperature and low spin speed; for hand washing, use lukewarm water. Dose the concentrate as the maker states, stir it in sparingly and spread it evenly. During the wash, the formula keeps the leather from losing its natural oil structure. Once washed, let the item dry flat, ease it back into shape now and then, and with furs give them a soft brush-up to bring the natural texture back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eResults, where to use it \u0026amp; the day-to-day payoff\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter cleaning, leather and fur feel softer, fresher and hygienically clean without turning brittle or hard. The concentrate suits motorbike suits, leather jackets, riding gear, sheepskins, fur-lined shoes, furniture furs and plenty more. It's not for untreated aniline or extremely delicate leathers that aren't cleared for washing. With fur in particular, the concentrate stops matting and keeps the natural spring of the hair fibres. The result is a clean, well-kept finish that holds on to its original material quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon questions about COLOURLOCK Leather \u0026amp; Fur Wash Concentrate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan I wash any leather with it?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnly washable leather types. Unsuitable leathers like aniline shouldn't be washed — clean them gently instead.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eIs the concentrate suitable for long-haired furs?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYes. It cuts down matting and keeps the natural texture. Brush gently once it's dry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDoes washing change the colour?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsually not. With very delicate or colour-unstable leathers, small changes are possible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan I mix it with normal detergent?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. Regular detergent can dry leather out and shouldn't be combined with it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eHow do I dry leather and fur properly?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFlat, air-dried, away from heat sources. Ease it back into shape now and then while it dries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003csmall\u003eLast updated: 02.12.2025 — Author: Daniel (Detailing1)\u003c\/small\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie × COLOURLOCK","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":56320338886991,"sku":"D1-KCX-489-1L-01","price":56.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250ml","offer_id":56320338919759,"sku":"D1-KCX-489-250ML-01","price":21.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/489-1L-01_1.png?v=1778250881"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-colourlock-leather-wash-set","title":"COLOURLOCK \"Leather Wash Set\"","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eMachine Washing Removable Leather Parts Without Color Bleeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the COLOURLOCK Leather Wash Set? A two-component leather detergent consisting of wash concentrate and separate color fixative for machine or hand deep cleaning of washable genuine leather at a maximum of 35 degrees Celsius. Not suitable for permanently installed car seats, exotic aniline leather, and furs with washable tanning.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe COLOURLOCK Leather Wash Set\u003c\/strong\u003e is a \u003cstrong\u003eleather detergent set\u003c\/strong\u003e from Koch-Chemie consisting of a mild wash concentrate and an acidic color fixative. The concentrate follows a tanner's recipe and returns fats to the leather during washing, instead of rinsing them out. The fixative applies a protective layer to the pigments before washing, preventing dark colors from bleeding into light inlays during the 35-degree rinse.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRegular heavy-duty detergents are alkaline and strip the leather of its natural softeners. The result is a rock-hard piece that can no longer be worn or upholstered. The COLOURLOCK set is the counter-logic to this: slightly acidic, re-greasing, with a separate color lock. The brand has been part of Koch-Chemie since the end of 2023; the formulation has remained unchanged after the takeover, and the containers now feature the white KCX design.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo-bath workflow to prevent color bleeding.\u003c\/strong\u003e The included 100 ml fixative is prepared in a separate tub with 5 to 10 liters of lukewarm water before washing. A 60-minute soaking time anchors the pigments in the leather fibers before the concentrate cleans at 35 degrees in the machine. Pure all-in-one leather detergents do not have this pigment lock. For you, this means dark stitching lines on a white motorcycle suit won't bleed, the set keeps the colors where the tanner put them.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRe-greasing with lanolin according to a tanner's recipe.\u003c\/strong\u003e The concentrate contains mild surfactants and lanolin derivatives that return to the open pores, while sweat, sebum, and road dust are dissolved. 80 to 125 ml of concentrate (about one-third to half a bottle) is sufficient per machine wash. The leather is supple after drying, not stiff. In everyday life: you put the suit back on without having to break it in for two weeks.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFreely available, no private customer restriction.\u003c\/strong\u003e The set is not B2B-only and can be ordered without professional proof. Nevertheless, the concentrate is chemically potent, eye protection and nitrile gloves are mandatory when mixing, safety instructions are in the data sheet. Practical: you don't need a business license, but respect for a strong product.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e We often see users pouring the fixative into the washing machine's detergent drawer. It doesn't work there. The fixative needs standing water and 60 minutes to anchor itself in the leather fibers. Prepare 50 ml in a tub with 5 to 10 liters of lukewarm water, place the leather parts in it, and then transfer them moist into the drum \u003cem\u003ewithout rinsing\u003c\/em\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003eFrom our experience: throwing two to three clean tennis balls into the cold air dryer breaks up bonded fibers faster. The leather is supple after 30 minutes instead of two days of air drying. No manufacturer writes this trick into the official instructions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFour phases from pre-treatment to milled leather\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe set only works if the four phases of pre-wash, fixative bath, machine wash, and milling are consistently followed sequentially. Shortcutting will either ruin the color or the structure of the leather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHeavily soiled areas such as collars, cuffs, and linings are first pre-treated undiluted with the concentrate and a soft leather brush. Without this pre-wash, coarse dirt will simply remain during the machine wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen comes the fixative bath in a tub: 50 ml in 5 to 10 liters of lukewarm water, 60 minutes soaking time, move briefly every 15 minutes. The moist parts are then transferred directly into the drum without rinsing, along with 80 to 125 ml of concentrate on a wool wash cycle at a maximum of 35 degrees.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHigher temperatures cause the leather proteins to curdle and the material shrinks irreversibly. We regularly hear of covers that came out of the drum several clothing sizes smaller because the water was too warm or drying was done on a heater. This is not a marketing note, it's a physical limit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter spinning, the critical phase follows: milling. The semi-dry leather is stretched and kneaded in all directions until the fibers are flexible again. Completely dry pieces can alternatively be tumbled soft for 15 to 30 minutes in a dryer with cold air, turned inside out, never with heat. Air drying takes one to two days, lying flat on towels or hanging shape-stable at room temperature, no heater, no sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to add aftercare to the workflow, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-colourlock-care-waterproofing-oil-pflegeol-impragnierung\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK Care \u0026amp; Waterproofing Oil\u003c\/a\u003e is the right impregnation for smooth leather. Without impregnation, the fiber remains supple but loses the water repellency that protects the leather from subsequent soiling in everyday use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eStructural wash dissolves dirt, not migrated pigments\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Leather Wash Set removes sweat, sebum, and road dust from the leather structure. Chemical pigment migrations such as denim dye transfer on light nappa are beyond its reach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStandard applications include sweaty motorcycle suits and pilot jackets, classic leather cases, removable vintage car covers, leather gloves with ingrained sweat marks, historical saddle straps, and equestrian equipment. Lambskin with firm tanning is also suitable. Forums such as autopflegeforum.eu and fahrzeugpflegeforum.de refer to the concentrate as a reference for machine leather washing. Users consistently report that the leather does not harden with correct drying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUnwashable remain open-pore aniline leathers in strong composite, very porous old leathers, exotic leather types, and furs with washable tanning. In these substrates, the water also dissolves the tanning, and the piece loses its structure. If dark pigment spots are not superficial but have migrated into the leather color, even intensive washing will not help. Then re-pigmentation with COLOURLOCK Leather Fresh is the next step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA second honest limitation: deeply ingrained mold or mildew odor in foam padding cannot be removed by washing alone, because the spores do not even reach the leather; they are under the cover. Here, the padding must be disassembled, otherwise the odor will return after three days.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf, on the other hand, only a quick wipe-down cleaning of the car interior without disassembly is required, then the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-colourlock-leather-cleaner-mild-lederreiniger\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK Leather Cleaner Mild\u003c\/a\u003e is the right choice, as it works on permanently installed car seats. If you need to wash dark and light leather parts separately and only need the fixative lock individually, choose the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-colourlock-leather-fixative-farbfixierer\"\u003eCOLOURLOCK Leather Fixative\u003c\/a\u003e in a single bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFor saddlers and restorers, not for wipe-down care\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe set is aimed at users who machine wash removable leather parts and invest three hours plus drying time. For everything else, it is too elaborate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main target group includes saddleries, trained leather reconditioners, restorers of classic convertibles and vintage cars, and motorcycle suit cleaners. The assortment of 250 ml concentrate plus 100 ml fixative is sufficient for three to five machine washes or a larger saddler order. In regular wash-and-wax detailing on permanently installed car seats, the set plays no role. Seats cannot be put in the machine; here, the Leather Cleaner Mild is already ready in the wiping tray.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHobby enthusiasts who clean a motorcycle suit once a year also benefit, provided they take the afternoon for it. Three hours of active time plus one to two days of drying is the honest effort estimate; less is not realistic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn important consequence that reconditioners should discuss with the end customer before each job: scratches, fading, and patina concealed by dirt will become prominently visible after deep washing. A leather wash often necessitates subsequent color refreshment with Leather Fresh, otherwise the customer will be more disappointed after cleaning than before. A photo log of the prior condition, reviewed with the customer, prevents the expectation gap between \"five hours of work\" and \"looks like new.\"\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe one Detailing1 insight that no marketing brochure writes: after every leather wash cycle, the machine itself must be degreased. The concentrate contains a lot of lanolin, and at 35 degrees, a sticky grease film inevitably remains in the drum and hoses. Without post-cleaning, it will ruin the next textile wash, often only two washes later, when shirts suddenly come out of the drum greasy. A blank run at 60 to 90 degrees with a strong degreasing heavy-duty detergent is sufficient.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis is the hour of effort between a satisfied saddler customer and a family with greasy shirts. Exactly where most people shorten the workflow. Whoever buys the leather detergent set buys not only the two bottles, but the commitment to consistently complete the workflow, from the fixative bath to the 35-degree limit to the subsequent machine cleaning cycle.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie × COLOURLOCK","offers":[{"title":"set","offer_id":57637092491599,"sku":"D1-KCX-8809-S-01","price":31.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/8809-S-01_1.png?v=1778249510"}],"url":"https:\/\/detiiling1.com\/collections\/koch-chemie-colourlock-ratgeber-leder-waschen.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}