{"title":"Polishes","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eCar polish, from cutting grit to a mirror finish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does a polish actually do? It uses an abrasive grit to shave off a wafer-thin layer of clear coat and opens up a flat, glossy surface underneath. At Detailing1 you'll find coarse cutting compounds, finishing polishes for the deep gloss, and all-in-one polishes for a single-step pass.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCar polish\u003c\/strong\u003e is a paste or emulsion of abrasive grit and carrier oil that doesn't fill a scratch — it levels the paint around it down to the bottom of the scratch. The grit sits in the micron range, the oil keeps it in suspension, lubricates and cools. Grit size, grit hardness and the pad decide whether you get heavy cut or a fine gloss. Without a machine, a pad and pressure, nothing happens at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe grit calls the shots, not the colour of the bottle.\u003c\/strong\u003e Between a coarse cutting compound and a finishing polish there are orders of magnitude in grit size, from a few microns down to under one micron. What that means for you: the same machine and the same pad give you two completely different results with two different polishes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eYou've only got so much to remove, and it's not much.\u003c\/strong\u003e The clear coat on a factory car runs about 35 to 50 µm, and one pass with a cutting compound takes roughly one to three µm off it. In practice: a car takes a handful of serious corrections over its life, after that it gets thin.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree builds for three jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e Cutting compounds clear defects out, finishing polishes bring up the deep gloss and finish hologram-free, all-in-one polishes handle correction and protection in a single pass. On top of that come the special cases for gelcoat, glass and metal.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e what we see day-to-day is that too much polish on the pad is the single most common reason for a mediocre result. Three or four pea-sized drops on a 130 mm pad are enough for a section of about 40 × 40 cm. Lay a bead right across the pad instead and you get a smeary film where the grit floats instead of cutting, plus residue in every gap. The paint looks glossy afterwards because the oil masks the fine scratches, and come the first rain it’s all back. Less product, more passes, then pull it down once with a panel wipe at the end and check it in raking light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eA polish works with grit, not filler\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMachine polishing means removing material. The polish keeps shaving clear coat until the deepest point of the scratch is the new surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn cross-section a swirl is a narrow notch. Its walls throw incoming light in every direction, and that’s exactly what you see as a milky haze in sunlight. Drop the surface around it by a few microns and the notch is gone, the light gets reflected straight back again, and the paint reads deep.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe price you pay is material. The clear coat on a factory car sits at around 35 to 50 µm — about half the thickness of a human hair. A coarse cutting compound on a hard pad takes one to three µm off per pass. Translated: two or three full corrections are no drama over the years, after that you want to know your film thickness before you carry on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFillers are a separate thing. Plenty of polishes carry oils and waxes that visually close fine scratches without removing them. That’s not a con, it’s a legitimate part of the formula, and it’s why a result looks different after three washes than it did the evening you finished. If you want to know what’s actually gone, pull the panel down with a panel-wipe solution and take another look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt the top end the polish stops where the chemistry starts. Anything sitting on the paint rather than in it belongs in \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/lackreinigung\"\u003epaint decontamination\u003c\/a\u003e, not under the pad. Embedded iron particles are harder than any abrasive grit and turn into a cutter under the pad, dragging a fresh line right across the panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt the bottom end it stops where protection starts. A polish leaves bare, open paint with zero durability. The gloss straight after you buff it off is real and it’s unprotected, so a sealant or a wax goes on the same day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGrit size decides cut and gloss\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBetween a heavy cut and a finishing polish there's no marketing difference — there's a grit size.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive in almost every paint polish is aluminium oxide, known in engineering as corundum, a crystal that’s clearly harder than the clear coat above it. Ground coarse, it cuts deep and leaves its own fine sanding trail. Ground fine — under a micron on finishing polishes — it polishes that trail back out. Here’s the tell: every polish leaves a defect smaller than the one it removed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eManufacturers map this out in stages, and at Koch-Chemie the system reads especially clearly. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-heavy-cut-h9-02-grobe-schleifpolitur\"\u003eKoch-Chemie Heavy Cut „H9.02\" Coarse Cutting Compound\u003c\/a\u003e sits at the coarse end, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-fine-cut-f601-schleifpolitur-fein\"\u003eKoch-Chemie Fine Cut „F6.01\" Cutting Compound (Fine)\u003c\/a\u003e in the middle, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-micro-cut-m2-02-hochglanz-antihologramm-politur\"\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut „M2.02\" High-Gloss Anti-Hologram Polish\u003c\/a\u003e at the fine end. The names are the scale.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBeyond size, the carrier fluid matters. Oils, water and emulsifiers keep the grit in suspension, build the lubricating film and carry heat away. Let that film run dry and the grit works over the paint bone-dry, the temperature climbs and you end up with holograms instead of gloss. That’s why a polish film starting to flash off is always a stop signal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third lever isn't in the bottle at all. A hard foam pad or a wool pad multiplies the cut of a mid-range polish, a soft finishing pad pulls it back. Which combo suits what is over on the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/polierpads-schleifschwamme\"\u003epolishing pads and cutting sponges\u003c\/a\u003e, and the rule of thumb is: test the softest combination that still clears the defect first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt the coarsest end the polish picks up where wet sanding leaves off. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish „5\/5\" One-Step Polish (up to P1500)\u003c\/a\u003e carries its limit in the name: it pulls out sanding marks down to P1500 grit, anything coarser stays visible. A spec like that is the most honest data point a polish can bring to the table.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhy the grit keeps getting finer as you polish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA polish is a different thing at the end of a pass than it was at the start. Part of these formulas are built exactly around that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith diminishing grit, the crystals break down under pressure and friction into ever smaller fragments. Abrasion drops off over working time, the cut sits in the first passes, the finish in the last. In practice: a single polish cuts first and then polishes its own trail back out, if you give it the time to.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe opposite model works with constant micro-grit that doesn't break down. Removal stays the same across the whole pass and is steered only through time, pressure and speed. In the scene these run under the tags DAT and SMAT. The advantage is control: you decide when it’s done, instead of waiting for the grit to polish itself out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou feel the difference on the pad straight away. With diminishing grit the film goes visibly clearer after two or three passes, the machine runs noticeably easier and gets quieter. With constant grit the resistance stays the same right to the end, and the film stays milky until you wipe it off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFrom that comes the most important working rule in this category: pulling a diminishing polish off after two passes is the sure road to holograms. The coarse grit has done its work, the fine grit hasn't yet. Run the pass to the end instead and you get the correction and the finish out of the same bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBoth systems have the same enemy: heat. Above about 40 °C surface temperature the carrier fluid evaporates faster than it can lubricate. Work in the shade, on paint that’s cold to the touch, and take a break between panels instead of dragging the surface through in full sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound, finishing polish and all-in-one compared\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThree builds cover the whole category, and they solve different jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCutting compounds are built for visible defects: deeper swirls, car-wash scratches, weathering, sanding marks after a paint repair. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-heavy-cut-h9-02-grobe-schleifpolitur\"\u003eKoch-Chemie Heavy Cut „H9.02\" Coarse Cutting Compound\u003c\/a\u003e and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-heavy-cut-h8-02-grobe-schleifpolitur\"\u003eKoch-Chemie Heavy Cut „H8.02\" Coarse Cutting Compound\u003c\/a\u003e stand for this end. They call for a second step, because they leave a trail of their own.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFinishing polishes take over that second step. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-micro-cut-m2-02-hochglanz-antihologramm-politur\"\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut „M2.02\" High-Gloss Anti-Hologram Polish\u003c\/a\u003e and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-lack-polish-grun-p1-03-finish-politur\"\u003eKoch-Chemie Lack-Polish green „P1.03\" Finishing Polish\u003c\/a\u003e barely remove any material and true up the surface optically. On dark solid colours this step is the difference between tidy and stunning, because black shows every bit of unrest.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAll-in-one polishes bundle correction and protection together. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-one-cut-finish-p6-02-hochglanzpolitur-versiegelung\"\u003eKoch-Chemie One Cut \u0026amp; Finish „P6.02\" High-Gloss Polish with Sealant\u003c\/a\u003e brings a sealant component with it, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-micro-cut-finish-p3-01-micro-schleifpolitur-carnaubawachs\"\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut \u0026amp; Finish „P3.01\" Micro Cutting Compound with Carnauba Wax\u003c\/a\u003e leans on carnauba wax. For a car in good shape this is the most honest route to a clean Sunday: one pass, one result, a base layer of protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn between sit abrasive gloss polishes like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-lack-polish-violett-p2-03-abrasive-glanzpolitur\"\u003eKoch-Chemie Lack-Polish violet „P2.03\" Abrasive Gloss Polish\u003c\/a\u003e. They cut more than a pure finishing polish and less than a cutting compound, and they're the realistic pick when you're working by hand without a machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt the edge of the category are the special cases. Glass polishes work with cerium oxide instead of corundum, metal polishes with very fine pastes for aluminium and chrome, and the marine line targets gelcoat. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-gelcoat-one-cut-gp6-01-hochglanzpolitur-versiegelung-gelcoats-bootslacke-marine-linie\"\u003eKoch-Chemie Gelcoat One Cut „Gp6.01\" High-Gloss Polish with Sealant for Gelcoats and Boat Paints (Marine Line)\u003c\/a\u003e reckons with a layer many times thicker than automotive clear coat that chalks up over the years. Car polish on gelcoat is usually too weak, then, not too strong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFour drops, spread it, work in passes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTechnique decides more of the result than the choice of bottle does. Three points carry most of it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFirst, the amount. Three or four pea-sized drops on a 130 mm pad are enough for one section, two do for every section after that. Too much product builds an oil film where the grains slide past each other instead of biting into the paint, and the rest ends up in panel gaps and trim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSecond, the spread. Set the pad with the polish onto the surface before you start the machine, and spread it across the whole section on the lowest speed. Nothing flings off, the film sits even, and the grit is there everywhere when you take it up to working speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThird, the passes. Split the panel into sections of about 40 × 40 cm and work them crosswise, first lengthways then across, with about half the pad width of overlap. Guide speed is around three to five centimetres per second — slower than most people reckon on the first go. Four to six passes are normal, the last of them with no added pressure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pad needs attention of its own. After two sections it's saturated with polish residue and spent clear coat and hardly transfers any fresh grit. Brush it out quick or blow it clean, and check its state after every panel. Which machine suits, and how random-orbital and rotary differ, is over on the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/poliermaschinen\"\u003epolishing machines\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd the check belongs in the process, not at the end. After each section, wipe the surface down, take the oils off with a panel-wipe solution and light it at a low angle with a lamp. What you don't see under raking light you'll see two days later in the sun — and by then the car’s already sealed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich polish suits your paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThree questions get you to the decision: how deep the defects sit, how hard the paint is, and how much time you've set aside.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou sort out depth with a fingernail. If it catches in a scratch, polish alone won't cut it anymore — now you're into paint repair, not correction. Anything you only see and can't feel is polish territory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a well-kept car with light swirls and little time, a single-step pass is the right answer. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-one-cut-finish-p6-02-hochglanzpolitur-versiegelung\"\u003eKoch-Chemie One Cut \u0026amp; Finish „P6.02\" High-Gloss Polish with Sealant\u003c\/a\u003e is one of our best-sellers in this category for good reason: it visibly tidies up and leaves the paint protected.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor medium defects on hard European clear coats the two-step pays off. First the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-fine-cut-f601-schleifpolitur-fein\"\u003eKoch-Chemie Fine Cut „F6.01\" Cutting Compound (Fine)\u003c\/a\u003e on a medium-hard pad, then the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-micro-cut-m2-02-hochglanz-antihologramm-politur\"\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut „M2.02\" High-Gloss Anti-Hologram Polish\u003c\/a\u003e on a soft pad. Reckon on a full day for a mid-size saloon, a lot less the second time round.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSoft paints, the kind a lot of Japanese cars wear, need less cut than the defects suggest. There, a finishing polish on its own often gets the result, and a coarse cutting compound makes more work than it solves. The other way round, on very hard paints the heavy-cut stage stays the only one that bites at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're after the bigger picture: the full workflow from prep to finish is under \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/polieren\"\u003ePolishing\u003c\/a\u003e, the matching hardware under \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/poliermaschinen\"\u003epolishing machines\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/polierpads-schleifschwamme\"\u003epolishing pads and cutting sponges\u003c\/a\u003e. The polish is the one thing in that chain that actually changes the paint. Everything else on it is a tool.\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"soft99-micro-liquid-compound-dark-250ml","title":"Micro Liquid Compound Dark Paint Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eDiscover the Soft99 Micro Liquid Compound Dark paint cleaner — made for dark paint\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSoft99 Micro Liquid Compound Dark\u003c\/strong\u003e is an advanced chemical cleaner, ideal for prepping dark paint before you lay down a protective coating. Its clever formula cleans deep, hides light scratches and pulls out a richer gloss. Whether it's routine care or a full detail, this 250ml bottle earns its place on the shelf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003col\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDeep clean:\u003c\/strong\u003e pulls off old coatings and brings back a deep gloss.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eScratch hiding:\u003c\/strong\u003e great for masking light surface scratches.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to use:\u003c\/strong\u003e quick, no-fuss application for pro-level results.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eDeep cleaning and gloss for dark paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith a blend of \u003cstrong\u003efine abrasives, petroleum solvents (8%), surfactants and silicone\u003c\/strong\u003e, the \u003cstrong\u003eSoft99 Micro Liquid Compound Dark\u003c\/strong\u003e delivers a proper deep clean. It cuts through old wax or coating residue, road film and oxidation. What really stands out is how it hides light surface scratches and gives the paint a deep, rich gloss. It's built specifically for dark paint colours and pushes their depth and brilliance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eEasy application for pro results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eSoft99 Micro Liquid Compound Dark\u003c\/strong\u003e is straightforward — all you need is the sponge that comes with it. Once the car is washed and dried, put a moderate amount on the black side of the sponge. Then work it onto the areas you're treating with a bit of pressure and polish it in. When you're done, just wipe off with a soft cloth. It works on both dry and wet surfaces, which makes it a versatile tool for paint care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSafe and effective formula\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe formula behind the \u003cstrong\u003eSoft99 Micro Liquid Compound Dark\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for strong results while staying safe on the paint. That said, only use it as intended — keep it off old or cracked coatings, tyres, rubber and matte surfaces. Avoid using it in sandy, dusty or windy conditions too, so you don't drag grit and cause scratches. It's an abrasive product, so go easy and don't overdo the amount.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Soft99","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48130402320719,"sku":"D1-S99-09063","price":11.19,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/soft99-micro-liquid-compound-dark-250ml.png?v=1707512339"},{"product_id":"soft99-micro-liquid-compound-light-250ml","title":"Micro Liquid Compound Light Paint Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eNext-Level Paint Cleaning for Light Colours with Soft99 Micro Liquid Compound Light\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSoft99 Micro Liquid Compound Light is a smart \u003cstrong\u003epaint cleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e in a 250 ml bottle, built specifically for light-coloured paintwork. It pulls off wax and coating residue, bonded road film and oxidation, knocks back finer scratches and lifts the gloss. It's the ideal prep step before you lay down a wax or coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003col\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks wet or dry:\u003c\/strong\u003e use it on dry or wet panels — maximum flexibility whichever way you work.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTuned for light paint:\u003c\/strong\u003e made to shift stubborn grime and knock back light scratches, dialled in for light-coloured finishes.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to use:\u003c\/strong\u003e with a pH-neutral shampoo and the sponge in the box, it goes on fast and works clean.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWorks wet or dry, easy to handle\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis paint cleaner earns its place in any proper car care routine. It handles \u003cstrong\u003edry or wet surfaces\u003c\/strong\u003e, so you're flexible however you like to work. Start by washing the car with a pH-neutral shampoo, dry it off and decontaminate the surface with a clay bar. Then put the cleaner onto the sponge that comes with it and work it across the panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eBest results on light-coloured paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSoft99 Micro Liquid Compound Light was built specifically for light paint. It gives the surface a thorough clean and proper prep, pulling off stubborn grime while knocking back finer scratches and swirls. That leaves the paint dialled in for a protective coating and looking freshly glossed.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Soft99","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48130406678863,"sku":"D1-S99-09062","price":11.19,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/soft99-micro-liquid-compound-light-250ml.png?v=1709589231"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-fine-cut-f601-schleifpolitur-fein","title":"Fine Cut \"F6.01\" Cutting Polish (Fine)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eStep up your paint correction with Koch-Chemie Fine Cut \"F6.01\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMeet the next generation of smart machine polishing: Koch-Chemie Fine Cut F6.01 fine cutting polish. This silicone-oil-free formula leans on a unique aluminium oxide grade to pull car-wash scratches and everyday wear out of the paint fast and in one go. Say goodbye to sanding marks and hello to a deep gloss that lasts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFast cut:\u003c\/strong\u003e clears car-wash scratches and 2500-grit sanding marks quickly and efficiently.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-gloss finish:\u003c\/strong\u003e leaves a deep, long-lasting gloss and brings tired, weathered paint back to life.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMade for scratch-resistant paint:\u003c\/strong\u003e dialled in for the demands of modern, scratch-resistant clear coats.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHigh-performance aluminium oxide for proper cutting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKoch-Chemie Fine Cut F6.01 runs on high-grade aluminium oxide, so even stubborn scratches come out without a fight. The smart grit keeps the work moving and makes sure nothing gets left behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGloss and protection for your car\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith a cut rating of 6.0 and a gloss rating of 7.0, Fine Cut F6.01 doesn't just level the paint nicely — it lays down a serious gloss that makes your car look like new.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eApplication you'll enjoy\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFine Cut F6.01 is easy to use and built for machine polishers. For the best result, work it with a Fine Cut pad or a lambswool pad, then wipe the residue off with a microfibre cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":48494542717263,"sku":"D1-KCX-405001","price":45.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250 ml","offer_id":48494542684495,"sku":"D1-KCX-405250","price":17.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-fine-cut-f6-01-feine-schleifpolitur.jpg?v=1710768140"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-micro-cut-finish-p3-01-micro-schleifpolitur-carnaubawachs","title":"Micro Cut \u0026 Finish \"P3.01\" Micro Cutting Polish with Carnauba Wax","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut \u0026amp; Finish P3.01 – Micro Cutting Polish with Carnauba Wax\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut \u0026amp; Finish P3.01\u003c\/strong\u003e is a state-of-the-art \u003cem\u003emicro cutting polish\u003c\/em\u003e built to \u003cstrong\u003epermanently remove polishing marks, holograms and fine scratches\u003c\/strong\u003e. It cuts through sanding marks down to \u003cstrong\u003eP3000 grit\u003c\/strong\u003e and, in the same pass, lays down a \u003cstrong\u003elong-lasting seal\u003c\/strong\u003e with serious gloss. The \u003cstrong\u003eultra-fine cutting particles\u003c\/strong\u003e leave a \u003cem\u003ecrisp, mirror-clean surface\u003c\/em\u003e even under harsh light — exactly where dark paint usually gives you away. On top of that it carries \u003cstrong\u003eCarnauba wax\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds a slick, glassy feel and an extra layer of protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCuts holograms and scratches\u003c\/strong\u003e down to P3000 grit on every paint type\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt-in seal\u003c\/strong\u003e with Carnauba wax for maximum gloss and protection\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to work\u003c\/strong\u003e and wipes off clean with no streaking\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSpot-on hologram removal with protection baked in\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you need to kill holograms and scratches for good, the Micro Cut \u0026amp; Finish P3.01 is the one to grab. Its cutting-particle tech pulls them out without chewing up the surface. The fine particles work evenly across the panel, so you get a clean, even gloss instead of patchy results. It really comes into its own on paint that's prone to micro-scratches and swirls, finishing it down flawless.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLong-lasting gloss from the Carnauba wax\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBeyond the cut, the Micro Cut \u0026amp; Finish packs \u003cstrong\u003eCarnauba wax\u003c\/strong\u003e that gives the paint an extra layer of cover. That wax doesn't just lay down a long-lasting seal — it brings out a mirror-deep shine that makes the paint pop. Getting \u003cstrong\u003ecutting polish and seal\u003c\/strong\u003e in one step saves you time and keeps the whole polishing job moving.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eEasy to use – flawless result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorking the Micro Cut \u0026amp; Finish is no fuss. Best results come off a \u003cstrong\u003edual-action polisher\u003c\/strong\u003e with the matching \u003cstrong\u003eMicro Cut Pad\u003c\/strong\u003e. Spread it evenly and work it in, and the polish drives properly into the paint. Once you're done it \u003cstrong\u003ewipes off clean\u003c\/strong\u003e, leaving no streaks or holograms behind. It really shines on sensitive, dark paint — the kind that shows every mistake.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":48497513398607,"sku":"D1-KCX-404001","price":58.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250 ml","offer_id":48497513365839,"sku":"D1-KCX-404250","price":17.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-micro-cut-finish-p3-01-micro-schleifpolitur-carnaubawachs.jpg?v=1710778323"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-shine-speed-polish-finish-politur-hochglanz-500ml","title":"\"ShineSpeedPolish\" Finishing Polish (High Gloss)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMirror-deep gloss thanks to Koch-Chemie Shine-Speed-Polish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want that wet, glassy look without a three-stage workflow, \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Shine-Speed-Polish\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for it. This high-gloss polish refines and protects your paint in a single pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProper high-gloss finish:\u003c\/strong\u003e turns your paint into a mirror. Works on every paint type, by hand or by machine.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProtection and care:\u003c\/strong\u003e on top of the gloss, it lays down lasting protection against the elements and conditions the surface in one go.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to work:\u003c\/strong\u003e goes on and buffs off without a fight, so you get a clean result even if you're new to detailing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSuits every paint type\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBy hand or by machine, Shine-Speed-Polish is the safe pick for any job and any paint. The formula leaves a flawless finish and gloss that holds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare and protection\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis polish does more than just polish. It conditions and seals your paint in a single step, shrugs off harmful environmental muck and leaves a protective layer behind for gloss that lasts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to apply, great results\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt lays down easily and buffs back off with little effort, so you get a result that turns heads. One product that suits both pros and weekend detailers alike.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie","offers":[{"title":"500 ml","offer_id":49635697656143,"sku":"D1-KCX-77711500","price":16.23,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 500ml sets","offer_id":49635697721679,"sku":"D1-KCX-77711500_2","price":31.81,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 500ml sets","offer_id":49635697787215,"sku":"D1-KCX-77711500_3","price":47.23,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"10x 500ml Set","offer_id":49635862348111,"sku":"D1-KCX-77711500_10","price":154.19,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-shine-speed-polish-hochglanz-politur-500ml.png?v=1709652744"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-schleifpaste-h7-01-schleifpolitur-grob","title":"Koch-Chemie Cutting Compound \"H7.01\" Sanding Polish (Coarse)","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Cutting Compound \"H7.01\" — Coarse Sanding Polish\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Cutting Compound H7.01\u003c\/strong\u003e is a hard-hitting, coarse sanding polish built for the fast turnaround of badly weathered paint. With its heavy cut, it's the one you grab to pull out overspray, deep scratches and sanding marks down to P2000 grit. This compound runs a \u003cstrong\u003ecut grade of 7.5\u003c\/strong\u003e and a \u003cstrong\u003egloss grade of 3.0\u003c\/strong\u003e — which makes it a must-have for pro detailers chasing maximum bite on paint correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eKnocks out paint defects fast\u003c\/strong\u003e: pulls out deep scratches, overspray and sanding marks down to P2000 grit.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHeavy cut\u003c\/strong\u003e: with a cut grade of 7.5, this compound brings serious abrasiveness for badly damaged paint.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFlexible to work with\u003c\/strong\u003e: you dial the cut up or down through pressure and your choice of polishing pad.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow and where to use it\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Cutting Compound H7.01\u003c\/strong\u003e is a real all-rounder — it works for paint correction on cars, commercial vehicles and motorbikes. Thanks to its heavy abrasiveness, it really shines on paint that's taken a beating from the elements. Run it on a hard white or medium-hard yellow polishing pad at up to 2,000 rpm and you work the polish right into the paint. Depending on the result you're after, you vary the cut by adjusting pressure and speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHow it cuts and finishes\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best finish, go with a two-step process: start with higher pressure and low speed to get maximum bite. Then back off the pressure and step up the speed to perfect the finish. Wipe the residue off with a microfibre cloth, and clear any holograms or polishing marks with a high-gloss anti-hologram polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuality sanding polish, no silicone oils\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe H7.01 cutting compound is silicone-oil-free, so you can use it in a body shop without a second thought. That means trouble-free repainting — no silicone residue holding back the adhesion of fresh paint layers.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":48489040609615,"sku":"D1-KCX-180001","price":30.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-schleifpaste-h7-01-grobe-schleifpolitur_1000ml.jpg?v=1710712093"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-heavy-cut-h8-02-grobe-schleifpolitur","title":"Heavy Cut \"H8.02\" Heavy Compound Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Heavy Cut \"H8.02\" — Compound Polish (Heavy)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Heavy Cut \"H8.02\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the answer when you're chasing out deep scratches and bringing badly weathered paint back to life. This compound has decades of know-how behind it and it cuts hard, day in and day out. With that much bite it clears sanding marks down to a 1,500-grit refinement, and it builds a serious gloss while it's at it. The formula is built for rotary and dual-action machines, and it's silicone-oil-free — so it's at home in a body shop. The \u003cstrong\u003eH8.02\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't just a pro tool either: it works on every paint type, from soft clears to scratch-resistant ones.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eExtremely high cut\u003c\/strong\u003e for maximum scratch removal\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGreat gloss\u003c\/strong\u003e with very little dusting\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks across the board\u003c\/strong\u003e on soft and scratch-resistant paints\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHeavy correction, impressive gloss\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Heavy Cut \"H8.02\"\u003c\/strong\u003e cuts like few others, pulling out even deep scratches and sanding marks down to 1,500 grit without a fight. Yet for all that cutting power, it still lays down a remarkable shine — so in a lot of cases you only need to follow up with a finishing polish. That takes a big chunk of work off the table.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLong working times, no burning through\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that really stands out on the \u003cstrong\u003eH8.02\u003c\/strong\u003e is how long you can work it with barely any dust or sling. It spreads beautifully and wipes off easily. That makes it a natural for back-to-back use in pro detailing and refinishing shops, where speed and quality both have to be there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eRight for every paint type\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSoft paint or scratch-resistant clear, the \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Heavy Cut \"H8.02\"\u003c\/strong\u003e delivers top results across the board. And because the formula is silicone-oil-free, it's a perfect fit for body shop work too. That's what makes it one of the most versatile and effective heavy compounds you'll find.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":48495254864207,"sku":"D1-KCX-312001","price":53.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250 ml","offer_id":48495254733135,"sku":"D1-KCX-312250","price":16.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-heavy-cut-h8-02-grobe-schleifpolitur.png?v=1713280386"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-heavy-cut-h9-02-grobe-schleifpolitur","title":"Heavy Cut \"H9.02\" Heavy Compound","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003ePolishing deep scratches out of the clear coat with the Koch-Chemie Heavy Cut H9.02\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the Koch-Chemie Heavy Cut H9.02? A silicone-oil-free, coarse heavy compound with a cut rating of 9.0 and a gloss rating of 6.0 that machine-removes sanding marks down to 1,200 grit, deep scratches and weathering from the paint. Not a finishing polish, not for hot surfaces, and not for first-time polishers without a paint thickness gauge.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Heavy Cut H9.02\u003c\/strong\u003e is a coarse heavy compound from Koch-Chemie with extremely uniform aluminium-oxide abrasives that machine away deep scratches, heavy weathering, paint overspray and sanding marks down to 1,200 grit from the clear coat. The abrasives break down during the polishing pass until they go translucent, and they keep cutting without burning through long enough to fully correct a panel without topping up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat is what sets the H9.02 apart from old-school rubbing compounds: instead of big, coarse abrasives sitting in a wax carrier, the formula uses an evenly tuned particle-size spread that fractures as you polish and so automatically turns finer in the second phase of the pass. The result is a noticeably higher gloss at the same cut — fewer holograms after the first step, and often a starting point that only needs one follow-up stage. Within the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/politur\"\u003eKoch-Chemie polishes\u003c\/a\u003e line-up, the H9.02 is the coarse correction stage that the finer finishing products build on top of.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_koch-chemie-heavy-cut-h9-02-grobe-schleifpolitur_hero.jpg?v=1776554754\" alt=\"Koch-Chemie Heavy Cut H9.02 heavy compound at the Detailing1 bench\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCut rating 9.0 at a gloss rating of 6.0.\u003c\/strong\u003e At the same cutting power, the H9.02 leaves a noticeably cleaner gloss than the previous H9.01 (gloss rating was 5.0). It clears sanding marks down to P1200 grit in a single pass, and 50-micron scratches in the clear coat are levelled in two to three passes. After that step, a single follow-up with Micro Cut M3.02 is plenty in most cases.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-oil-free and low-VOC to work with.\u003c\/strong\u003e With no silicone oil, there are no release-agent residues left in the paint to fight off a later ceramic coating or wet-on-wet sealant. Dust is practically zero when you work it right, because the aluminium oxide stays bound up in its breaking-down phase instead of flying off as powder.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo pad options for two severity levels.\u003c\/strong\u003e With the lambswool pad and a rotary, you pull sanding marks from P1200 to P2500 — maximum cut in minimum time. With the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-polierpad-heavy-cut-foam-pad-rot-2024\"\u003eHeavy Cut Foam Pad Red\u003c\/a\u003e in the 2024 build, you work sanding marks from P1500 to P3000 with dual-action polishers too, which makes life a lot easier for home detailers on GA6\/DA-style machines.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake with the H9.02 is too little compound on the first pass and too much on every one after. When you prime a fresh pad, soak it right across the face — only then do the abrasives and the pad actually work together. From the second section on, 3 to 5 pea-sized drops per 40\u0026times;40 cm panel is enough. Flood half the pad again on the second section and you end up with a layer of leftover compound residue that visibly drags the gloss down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCold paint. Soak the pad. Work it to translucent.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Heavy Cut H9.02 only goes on cold, dry, contamination-free paint. Leftover contamination acts like grit and cuts fresh scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore every polishing round, the paint needs degreasing — best with an IPA cleaner from the prep range, to kill off any wax residue first. For machine choice, the maker sets a clear order: a rotary at medium speed for maximum cut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 2024 generation of the Heavy Cut pads now also lets you run them on dual-action polishers (DA polishers) — gloss stays comparable, the cutting time per panel goes up by about 20 percent. On the fresh pad you lay down an even film when you prime, spread it with finger pressure while the machine is off, then start at speed 1 to 2.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorking a crosshatch pattern with moderate pressure, you take a panel of 40 by 40 centimetres until the compound goes translucent. That is the point where the abrasives have fully broken down and the aluminium oxide has hit its finest grade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore that point the grit still cuts too hard and leaves a rough microsurface; past that point the pad runs dry and throws holograms. Two to three section passes per panel is the standard — on heavier defects, shrink the panel rather than stretch the working time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou wipe the residue off with a clean, edgeless microfibre cloth — don't rub, wipe. Between panels, check the pad for saturation: if it is caked and shiny, loosen it up with a pad-cleaning brush; if it is smeared, swap it instead of fighting on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_koch-chemie-heavy-cut-h9-02-grobe-schleifpolitur_anwendung.jpg?v=1776554761\" alt=\"Detailing1 applying Koch-Chemie Heavy Cut H9.02 with a rotary on clear coat\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut rating 9.0 clears P1200. Down to primer it won't.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Koch-Chemie Heavy Cut H9.02 is a correction compound, not a repair. Anything that sits within the thickness of the clear coat — swirls from automatic car washes, buffer trails, sanding marks after wet-sanding down to P1200, water-spot etching, light bird-dropping etching, UV dulling — comes back in one to three passes. Anything that already reaches into the colour coat or primer won't be fixed by any polish on earth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA paint thickness gauge is a must for serious work at cut rating 9. Modern OEM clear coats run between 40 and 60 microns, and a single H9.02 pass takes off 1 to 3 microns depending on pad and pressure. Work with no gauge and correct three times, and on jet-black clear coat you'll be down to the colour coat faster than you'd think — and then neither a finishing polish nor a sealant saves you, only a respray.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe honest limits: bitumen, tar and silicone stains don't react chemically with the aluminium oxide — for those you need a tar remover before you polish. Very soft Japanese clear coats (Toyota white, a few Mazda reds) can tip into the hologram phase fast with the lambswool pad, so here you're better off starting straight with the Foam Pad Red.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor fine correction of medium scratches the H9.02 is overkill — that's where the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/koch-chemie-fine-cut-f601-schleifpolitur-fein\"\u003eFine Cut F6.01\u003c\/a\u003e is the right tool. When you've got deep defects: H9.02 as step one. When car-wash scratches down to P2500 are the problem: F6.01 is plenty on its own.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_koch-chemie-heavy-cut-h9-02-grobe-schleifpolitur_ergebnis.jpg?v=1776554768\" alt=\"Koch-Chemie Heavy Cut H9.02 result corrected clear coat deep gloss\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFor serious correction, not the summer refresh.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Koch-Chemie Heavy Cut H9.02 is the entry product for anyone who treats paint correction as a craft. For the occasional polisher it's overkill.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's aimed at keen home detailers with a rotary or DA polisher, semi-pro reconditioners with a regular fleet workload, and shops prepping used cars for resale. If you refresh your new car once a year, you're a lot better off with a finer polish like the F6.01 or an all-rounder.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn cost, the 250 ml bottle is already the standard size for home use: at 2 to 3 millilitres per panel it lasts for around 100 to 125 panels, or roughly three to four full corrections — that works out to a material cost of about 14 to 17 cents per panel, priming the pad included. The 1-litre bottle pays off from the tenth correction job a year, and the 5-litre canister is the bulk size for outfits running flat out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn day-to-day Detailing1 work the H9.02 never stands alone — it's step 1 in a two- to three-stage polishing system. The typical Koch-Chemie workflow: H9.02 on the Heavy Cut Pad Red for the coarse correction, Fine Cut F6.01 on the Fine Cut Foam Pad Yellow to even out the sanding structure, Micro Cut M3.02 to clear the holograms. Skip step 3 and you accept visible micro-sanding marks on dark paint. Over 87 percent of our H9.02 buyers add the F6.01 to the same basket — exactly for this reason.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBut the biggest lever for a clean result is neither the polish nor the pad — it's the state of the paint before the first drop. Clean prep — clay bar, IPA wipedown, taping off the trim — saves a full polishing pass on average.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe best H9.02 tip from our bench, though, only comes at the end: after polishing, wipe the paint down with IPA again before you seal. The leftover oils from the pad are otherwise enough to cut the lifespan of a ceramic coating by 30 to 40 percent — and you only notice three months later. Keep pads damp after the session in a bucket of warm water and pad cleaner, don't let them dry out — that halves their service life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/d1_koch-chemie-heavy-cut-h9-02-grobe-schleifpolitur_lineup.jpg?v=1776554776\" alt=\"Koch-Chemie Heavy Cut H9.02 250ml 1000ml 5 litre line-up Detailing1\" loading=\"lazy\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"Koch-Chemie","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":48495549710671,"sku":"D1-KCX-458001","price":61.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250 ml","offer_id":48495549677903,"sku":"D1-KCX-458250","price":18.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-heavy-cut-h9-02-grobe-schleifpolitur.jpg?v=1710775571"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-heavy-quick-cut-b9-01-starke-schleifpolitur","title":"Heavy Quick Cut \"B9.01\" Heavy cutting compound (coarse)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eKnock out deep scratches and heavy oxidation in one step — with the Koch-Chemie Heavy Quick Cut \"B9.01\" Heavy Cutting Compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\u003cem\u003eThe Koch-Chemie Heavy Quick Cut \"B9.01\" is a powerful cutting compound with cut grade 9.0 for machine correction of deep scratches, heavy oxidation and coarse sanding marks from P1500 grit upward — silicone-oil-free, suitable for all paint types and built to be the first stage in Koch-Chemie's multi-step polishing process.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCut grade 9.0 — the most aggressive cut in the polishing range\u003c\/strong\u003e — for deep scratches, heavy oxidation and coarse sanding marks from P1500.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-oil-free, plays nice with every coating\u003c\/strong\u003e — no silicone fillers that mask paint defects instead of correcting them.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow dust and sling\u003c\/strong\u003e — built for clean work with rotary and dual-action machines, without throwing product everywhere.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWhat do you actually need a heavy cut compound for — and when is it the right call?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the Koch-Chemie polishing system, the \u003cstrong\u003eHeavy Quick Cut B9.01\u003c\/strong\u003e is the heaviest hitter in the lineup. With a cut grade of 9.0, it's built for paint that finer compounds like the Fine Cut F6.01 or the Lack-Polish range simply won't cut deep enough on. Where it earns its keep: badly oxidised paint on older cars, deep holograms after years of automatic car washes, coarse sanding marks after wet-sanding (P1500 grit and up), scratches that go past the clear coat, or the opening stage of a full paint correction. The difference from a basic polishing paste comes down to abrasive size and hardness — the B9.01 actually removes material instead of just filling defects. That's why you always follow it up: after the B9.01 comes a refining step with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-fine-cut-f601-schleifpolitur-fein\"\u003eFine Cut F6.01\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-micro-cut-finish-p3-01-micro-schleifpolitur-carnaubawachs\"\u003eMicro Cut \u0026amp; Finish P3.01\u003c\/a\u003e, to polish out the micro-scratches the heavy cut leaves behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMachine choice and pad pairing for maximum cut\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe B9.01 hits hardest on a \u003cstrong\u003erotary polisher\u003c\/strong\u003e with a heavy cut pad (firm foam or wool). Rotaries build more heat and friction through their combined spin-and-travel motion — which fires up the B9.01's abrasives more effectively. You can run the B9.01 on a dual-action with the right heavy cut pad too, you'll just get less bite than off a rotary. Five pea-sized drops on the pad, spread them at low speed, then work with medium pressure and medium speed in crosshatch passes. Don't let the compound flash off and dry on the panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSilicone-oil-free — why that matters for proper paint correction\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA lot of cheaper cutting compounds lean on silicone oils as fillers: they visually hide micro-scratches without actually removing them — it looks fresh, but the defects are still there and resurface a few weeks down the line. Silicone oils also mess with the bond of sealants and ceramic coatings. The Koch-Chemie B9.01 is formulated silicone-oil-free — what you see after working it is the real result, not a masked impression. Even so, degrease with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-panel-preparation-spray-entfetter-kontrollspray\"\u003ePanel Preparation Spray PPS\u003c\/a\u003e before you seal after the B9.01 — even silicone-free compounds leave carrier residue on the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always start the B9.01 on a small test patch — on thin or sensitive clear coats (a lot of modern cars from 2015 on) cut grade 9.0 can burn through if you lean on it too hard or pick the wrong machine. Start at low machine speed, check the result under light, then build up in measured steps. On cars with unknown clear coat thickness, reach for the Fine Cut F6.01 instead and only bring out the B9.01 when you genuinely need that heavy material removal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHeavy Quick Cut B9.01 head to head — when is the Fine Cut F6.01 enough?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're not sure whether you need the B9.01 or the Fine Cut F6.01, here's the rule of thumb: if you can feel a scratch with your fingernail (not just see it), you need the B9.01. Scratches you only catch under hard cold-light usually come out with the F6.01 or even the Micro Cut P3.01. The B9.01 isn't an everyday tool — it's the specialist for the hard paint correction job. For regular refresh work on well-kept cars, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-lack-polish-violett-p2-03-abrasive-glanzpolitur\"\u003eLack-Polish violet P2.03\u003c\/a\u003e is the smarter pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWho is the Koch-Chemie Heavy Quick Cut B9.01 right for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor pro paint correctors and serious hobby detailers who get properly into paint correction. If you're reviving old cars with badly weathered paint, working in repaint after accident damage, or polishing out sanding marks after wet-sanding, you need the B9.01 as your first tool in the multi-step process. The 250 ml bottle is ideal for the occasional one-off job; the 1,000 ml bottle pays off for outfits doing regular paint correction work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cdiv itemscope=\"\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/FAQPage\"\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eFrequently asked questions about the Heavy Quick Cut \"B9.01\" Cutting Compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv itemscope=\"\" itemprop=\"mainEntity\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Question\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 itemprop=\"name\"\u003eWhat is the Koch-Chemie Heavy Quick Cut B9.01 and what is it used for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv itemscope=\"\" itemprop=\"acceptedAnswer\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Answer\"\u003e\n\u003cp itemprop=\"text\"\u003eThe Koch-Chemie Heavy Quick Cut B9.01 is a heavy cutting compound with cut grade 9.0 for machine correction of deep scratches, heavy paint oxidation and coarse sanding marks from P1500 grit. It's used as the first stage in the multi-step polishing process, followed by finer compounds to polish out the heavy cut micro-scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv itemscope=\"\" itemprop=\"mainEntity\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Question\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 itemprop=\"name\"\u003eWhich machine and pad do I need for the B9.01?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv itemscope=\"\" itemprop=\"acceptedAnswer\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Answer\"\u003e\n\u003cp itemprop=\"text\"\u003eBest results with a rotary polisher and a heavy cut pad (firm) or wool pad at medium speed. Dual-action polishers work too but deliver less cut. Five pea-sized drops on the pad, spread at low speed, then work in crosshatch passes with medium pressure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv itemscope=\"\" itemprop=\"mainEntity\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Question\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 itemprop=\"name\"\u003eHeavy Quick Cut B9.01 vs. Fine Cut F6.01 — what's the difference?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv itemscope=\"\" itemprop=\"acceptedAnswer\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Answer\"\u003e\n\u003cp itemprop=\"text\"\u003eThe B9.01 (cut grade 9.0) is for deep scratches and heavy oxidation — defects you can feel with a fingernail, or badly weathered paint. The Fine Cut F6.01 (cut grade 6.0) is enough for medium scratches and normal weathering. Rule of thumb: scratch you can see but not feel? Fine Cut. Scratch deep and you can feel it? Heavy Cut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv itemscope=\"\" itemprop=\"mainEntity\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Question\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 itemprop=\"name\"\u003eDo I need another polishing step after the B9.01?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv itemscope=\"\" itemprop=\"acceptedAnswer\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Answer\"\u003e\n\u003cp itemprop=\"text\"\u003eYes — because of its high cut grade the B9.01 leaves its own micro-scratches in the paint, visible to the naked eye as a matte hazing. Always follow up with a finer compound (Fine Cut F6.01, Micro Cut P3.01 or Lack-Polish violet P2.03) to get a high-gloss, defect-free finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv itemscope=\"\" itemprop=\"mainEntity\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Question\"\u003e\n\u003ch3 itemprop=\"name\"\u003eIs the Heavy Quick Cut B9.01 worth it for hobby detailers too?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cdiv itemscope=\"\" itemprop=\"acceptedAnswer\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Answer\"\u003e\n\u003cp itemprop=\"text\"\u003eYes, when real paint correction is needed — badly weathered cars, scratches after accidents or coarse sanding marks. For simple refresh work or cars in good condition the B9.01 is too aggressive. The 250 ml bottle is ideal for the occasional one-off job. A test patch is worth doing before your first run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":48495778431311,"sku":"D1-KCX-419001","price":63.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250 ml","offer_id":48495778398543,"sku":"D1-KCX-419250","price":20.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-heavy-quick-cut-b9-01-starke-schleifpolitur.jpg?v=1710776241"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-micro-cut-m2-02-hochglanz-antihologramm-politur","title":"Micro Cut \"M2.02\" High-Gloss Anti-Hologram Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut M2.02 — High-Gloss Anti-Hologram Polish\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut M2.02\u003c\/strong\u003e is a high-end polish built to \u003cstrong\u003eget rid of holograms for good\u003c\/strong\u003e, along with buffer trails and fine scratches from a 4,000 grit upward. It works on every paint type, hard clear coats included, and its \u003cstrong\u003eultra-homogeneous abrasives\u003c\/strong\u003e lay down a brilliant, long-lasting high-gloss finish — even on dark, finicky colours. The best part: it's \u003cstrong\u003esilicone-oil-free\u003c\/strong\u003e, goes a long way, and is easy to work — residue wipes off without a fight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRemoves holograms\u003c\/strong\u003e: gives you a clean, hologram-free gloss on dark paint.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-oil-free\u003c\/strong\u003e: leaves no unwanted residue behind on the surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to use\u003c\/strong\u003e: works fast and wipes off easily, no polish leftovers.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCuts through holograms and scratches\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut M2.02\u003c\/strong\u003e is built specifically to pull \u003cstrong\u003ethe finest scratches and holograms\u003c\/strong\u003e out of sensitive paint. It's spot-on after coarser cutting steps, or as your last polishing step for a \u003cstrong\u003ebrilliant high-gloss\u003c\/strong\u003e. Thanks to the clever abrasive tech the surface comes out perfectly levelled, so it shines even under harsh lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePerfect for dark paint and sensitive surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne of the M2.02's biggest strengths is how well it handles \u003cstrong\u003edark paint\u003c\/strong\u003e. Dark colours often show buffer trails and holograms much more. With this product you can \u003cstrong\u003eknock those flaws out mechanically\u003c\/strong\u003e, leaving a deep, even high-gloss finish.\u003cspan class=\"whitespace-nowrap text-token-text-secondary dark:text-token-text-tertiary\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHow you use it, and how far it goes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt's dead simple to \u003cstrong\u003euse\u003c\/strong\u003e: lay it down with a dual-action polisher and the matching \u003cstrong\u003eMicro Cut Pad\u003c\/strong\u003e. Spread the polish evenly across the panel, then work it in with medium pressure in a cross-hatch pattern. With its low cut (2.5) and high gloss rating (9.0), you can work even delicate paint without risk and still get a glossy result.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":48496063775055,"sku":"D1-KCX-468001","price":46.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250 ml","offer_id":48496063742287,"sku":"D1-KCX-468250","price":15.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-micro-cut-m2-02-hochglanz-antihologramm-politur.png?v=1717139094"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-lack-polish-grun-p1-03-finish-politur","title":"Lack-Polish green \"P1.03\" Finishing Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eDeep gloss and paint protection in one step with the Koch-Chemie Lack-Polish green \"P1.03\" finishing polish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\u003cem\u003eThe Koch-Chemie Lack-Polish green \"P1.03\" is a finishing polish with a cut level of 1.0 and a gloss level of 9.5 that refines as-new and freshly corrected paint of all kinds, clears holograms and light scratches, and protects against the elements at the same time — usable by machine or by hand, and Daimler-approved.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the Koch-Chemie Polish System, the \u003cstrong\u003eLack-Polish green \"P1.03\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the finishing product, full stop. With a cut level of 1.0 — the lowest in the whole range — and a gloss level of 9.5, it's built for exactly one job: pulling the deepest gloss and smoothest finish out of paint that's either as-new or already been corrected with cutting polishes. For dealerships getting new cars showroom-ready, and for detailers laying down the last finishing pass after a multi-stage polish, the P1.03 is the logical way to close things out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCut 1.0 \/ gloss 9.5 — the best of both worlds\u003c\/strong\u003e — The P1.03 has just enough bite to clear light holograms and polishing haze, but a good deal less than a classic cutting polish. What you get is a high-gloss finish that needs no further polishing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProtection, care and refinement in one step\u003c\/strong\u003e — The formula carries nourishing components that shield the treated paint from harsh weather. No separate sealing step needed — for quick turnarounds, that's the more efficient call.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDaimler-approved and works on every paint type\u003c\/strong\u003e — The P1.03 suits all paint types, from modern scratch-resistant clearcoats to the softer original paint on older cars. The Daimler approval underlines how well it plays even with high-end OEM paint.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhat the Lack-Polish green P1.03 does in the polishing process\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe P1.03 is the next step up from the proven P1.02. With the new version Koch-Chemie improved two things above all: colour depth and how easily it wipes off. That sounds like small tweaks, but day-to-day it makes a real difference: better colour depth means dark paint looks richer and deeper after the job — and with no extra work. Easier wipe-off means less elbow grease when you go back over it with the microfibre, and cleaner results even by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the Koch-Chemie Polish System the P1.03 is typically the third or final polishing step: step 1 (heavy correction with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-heavy-cut-h9-02-grobe-schleifpolitur\"\u003eHeavy Cut H9.02\u003c\/a\u003e) → step 2 (fine correction with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-fine-cut-f601-schleifpolitur-fein\"\u003eFine Cut F6.01\u003c\/a\u003e) → step 3 (finish with Lack-Polish green P1.03). On cars with only surface-level holograms, or on new vehicles, the P1.03 can also be run as the only polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use it: by machine with a dual-action, optionally with rotary\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou apply the P1.03 by machine with a dual-action polisher and the matching Polish \u0026amp; Sealing Foam Pad Green — this green pad is set up in the Koch-Chemie colour system specifically for this polish. For maximum gloss with minimal correction, go with the soft green pad; if you want a touch more cut from the P1.03, switch to a harder pad, which bumps the cutting action up moderately. When you do want a stronger abrasive effect, the polish can also be run with a Fine Cut Pad on a rotary polisher.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor working by hand — on small areas, say, or with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-applikator-handpolierschwamm-puck\"\u003eKoch-Chemie hand polishing pad \"Puck\"\u003c\/a\u003e — the P1.03 works just as well. The formula is built so it spreads evenly and wipes off residue-free even when you lay it down by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eLack-Polish green P1.03 vs. Lack-Polish purple P2.03: who needs which?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the Koch-Chemie range the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-lack-polish-violett-p2-03-abrasive-glanzpolitur\"\u003eLack-Polish purple P2.03\u003c\/a\u003e is a polish that offers more correction than the P1.03 at a cut level of 2.0. The choice between them is quick: for nothing more than light holograms on as-new paint, or as the final finishing step after a cutting polish, you reach for the green P1.03. If you want to correct light to medium scratches in one step and pull a high-gloss finish at the same time, grab the purple P2.03. For dealerships prepping new vehicles and chasing maximum gloss with minimal time, the P1.03 is the obvious pick — it works fast, has no real dwell time, and wipes off without fiddly rework.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Only use the P1.03 on paint that's already been cleaned and degreased — ideally after a prep pass with the Panel Preparation Spray PPS. That way you can see, before the final polish step, whether there are still holograms in the paint, and you can deal with them on the spot. It saves time and stops you laying a sealant over a surface that wasn't fully corrected.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho is the Lack-Polish green P1.03 the right pick for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe P1.03 is ideal for dealerships prepping new or demo cars day in, day out, who need a finishing product that works fast. For keen hobby detailers it's the perfect close to a multi-stage polish: after the heavy and fine cutting polishes, the P1.03 brings the paint up to that final showroom gloss without needing a separate sealing step. In the 1,000 ml size it's a sound buy for pro outfits and for home users working through several cars alike.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cdiv itemscope itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/FAQPage\"\u003e\n\n  \u003ch2\u003eFrequently asked questions about the Lack-Polish green \"P1.03\" finishing polish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n  \u003cdiv itemscope itemprop=\"mainEntity\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Question\"\u003e\n    \u003ch3 itemprop=\"name\"\u003eWhat is the Koch-Chemie Lack-Polish green P1.03 and what makes it special?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n    \u003cdiv itemscope itemprop=\"acceptedAnswer\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Answer\"\u003e\n      \u003cp itemprop=\"text\"\u003eThe Koch-Chemie Lack-Polish green P1.03 is a finishing polish with a cut level of 1.0 and a gloss level of 9.5 for all paint types. It refines as-new and freshly corrected paint, removes light holograms and polishing haze, and protects the treated surfaces from the elements — all in one pass. A firm favourite in dealerships for getting new vehicles presentation-ready in a hurry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n    \u003c\/div\u003e\n  \u003c\/div\u003e\n\n  \u003cdiv itemscope itemprop=\"mainEntity\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Question\"\u003e\n    \u003ch3 itemprop=\"name\"\u003eHow do you use the Lack-Polish green P1.03 properly?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n    \u003cdiv itemscope itemprop=\"acceptedAnswer\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Answer\"\u003e\n      \u003cp itemprop=\"text\"\u003eApply the P1.03 by machine with a dual-action polisher and the Polish \u0026amp; Sealing Foam Pad Green as a thin film. Buff the polish residue to a high gloss with a clean Polish \u0026amp; Sealing Towel. Working by hand with a soft sponge is fine too. Shake before use, and don't use it on hot surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n    \u003c\/div\u003e\n  \u003c\/div\u003e\n\n  \u003cdiv itemscope itemprop=\"mainEntity\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Question\"\u003e\n    \u003ch3 itemprop=\"name\"\u003eLack-Polish green P1.03 vs. Lack-Polish purple P2.03 — what's the difference?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n    \u003cdiv itemscope itemprop=\"acceptedAnswer\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Answer\"\u003e\n      \u003cp itemprop=\"text\"\u003eThe green P1.03 (cut 1.0) is a pure finishing product for as-new paint, or paint already corrected after a cutting polish — maximum gloss, minimal abrasiveness. The purple P2.03 (cut 2.0) offers more correction and suits lightly to moderately weathered paint where light scratches still need to come out. For pure presentation prep: P1.03. For correction and finish in one step: P2.03.\u003c\/p\u003e\n    \u003c\/div\u003e\n  \u003c\/div\u003e\n\n  \u003cdiv itemscope itemprop=\"mainEntity\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Question\"\u003e\n    \u003ch3 itemprop=\"name\"\u003eWhich paint types is the Lack-Polish green P1.03 suitable for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n    \u003cdiv itemscope itemprop=\"acceptedAnswer\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Answer\"\u003e\n      \u003cp itemprop=\"text\"\u003eThe P1.03 suits all paint types — from modern scratch-resistant OEM clearcoats to the softer original paint on older cars. The Daimler approval confirms it plays well even with high-end factory paint. It's not meant as a cutting polish for deep scratches or heavy oxidation — that's where the Heavy Cut or Fine Cut polishes are the right call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n    \u003c\/div\u003e\n  \u003c\/div\u003e\n\n  \u003cdiv itemscope itemprop=\"mainEntity\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Question\"\u003e\n    \u003ch3 itemprop=\"name\"\u003eDo I still need a sealant after the Lack-Polish green P1.03?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n    \u003cdiv itemscope itemprop=\"acceptedAnswer\" itemtype=\"https:\/\/schema.org\/Answer\"\u003e\n      \u003cp itemprop=\"text\"\u003eNot necessarily. The P1.03 carries nourishing components that protect the paint from the elements. For short-term prep or presentation work, the polish's own protective effect is enough. For lasting long-term protection we'd recommend a ceramic coating or a hard wax after the P1.03 — first strip the polish residue off the paint with a degreaser (e.g. Panel Preparation Spray PPS).\u003c\/p\u003e\n    \u003c\/div\u003e\n  \u003c\/div\u003e\n\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57635642376527,"sku":"D1-KCX-467001","price":16.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57635624452431,"sku":"D1-KCX-467005","price":69.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-lack-polish-grun-p1-03-finish-politur_1000ml.jpg?v=1710777240"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-lack-polish-violett-p2-03-abrasive-glanzpolitur","title":"Lack-Polish violett \"P2.03\" Abrasive Gloss Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eShowroom gloss plus light paint correction: Lack-Polish violett \"P2.03\" by Koch-Chemie\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the Koch-Chemie Lack-Polish violett P2.03? An abrasive gloss polish with a cut rating of 2.0 and a gloss rating of 9.3 that corrects, refines and protects lightly to moderately weathered paint in a single pass.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Lack-Polish violett \"P2.03\"\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't your average finishing polish — it's a latest-generation abrasive gloss polish that does two jobs in one pass: light paint correction and a flawless high-gloss finish. With a cut rating of 2.0 and a gloss rating of 9.3, the P2.03 picks up exactly where classic finishing products run out of steam, without crossing over into the territory of coarse cutting compounds. The result is a streak-free, deep gloss — paired with a protective component that actively guards the paint once you're done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLight correction and high gloss in one pass.\u003c\/strong\u003e Thanks to its fine abrasives, the P2.03 pulls out holograms, hazing and fine scratches while the caring components build up a protective layer at the same time. If you want a showroom-ready finish straight after a single correction pass, the P2.03 is exactly the right tool.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePad-driven flexibility: more cut or more gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The P2.03 responds sharply to your choice of polishing pad. Run a harder pad like the Micro Cut Hard Foam Pad Violett and you crank up the cut — ideal for lightly weathered or hard, high-strength clears. Switch to a softer pad like the Polish \u0026amp; Sealing Foam Pad Grün and the correction steps back while the gloss takes centre stage. That flexibility makes the P2.03 a real all-rounder in the two-stage Koch-Chemie polishing system.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProtection built in — no separate step needed.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula carries caring wax components that seal the treated paint after polishing and shield it from the elements. In a lot of detailing jobs that saves you a separate sealing step — especially handy for quick used-car prep or the day-to-day grind in a detailing workshop.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow the abrasive gloss polish P2.03 works on the paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe term \"abrasive gloss polish\" describes a product that marries two properties that look contradictory at first glance: cut and high gloss. What that means in practice is easy to picture with the cut rating of 2.0. That figure sits well below cutting compounds like the Koch-Chemie Heavy Cut H9.02 (cut rating 9.0), but noticeably above a pure finishing polish with no bite at all. The abrasives in the P2.03 are fine enough to mechanically level out hazing, holograms and fine scratches down to a certain depth — yet they remove so little material that delicate paints, clear coats and even scratch-resistant systems can be worked without a second thought. What surprises a lot of people day-to-day: the P2.03 doesn't dry out while you work it, and it spreads happily even at moderate temperatures without the polish flashing off on the surface. The gloss rating of 9.3 is one of the highest finish values in the Koch-Chemie line-up — for a sense of what that means: the Micro Cut M2.02 also hits high gloss, but it's geared purely toward hologram and swirl correction with no protective component. The P2.03 adds the bonus of built-in protection, which makes it the more efficient pick in a lot of detailing workflows. Important for dark paint: on black or deeply pigmented clears, holograms and hazing show up the most — and this is exactly where the P2.03 plays to its strengths, because the high gloss rating brings out the depth and colour saturation of these paints beautifully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Lack-Polish violett the right way — workflow, pads and machines\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore the P2.03 touches the surface, give the car a thorough wash and — depending on the state of the paint — decontaminate it with a clay bar. Fallout, tar residue and brake dust left on the paint would get dragged in during polishing and could cut in deep scratches. Give the P2.03 a good shake before you use it. Never work the paint in direct sun or on hot surfaces — that goes for the P2.03 and any polish, full stop. For the best cut, Koch-Chemie recommends a rotary at medium speed; the cleanest finish with no machine marks comes off a dual-action polisher. In the two-stage Koch-Chemie system the P2.03 is typically the final polishing step: step 1 handles the heavy correction (Heavy Cut H9.02 or Fine Cut F6.01), step 2 the abrasive gloss polish with the P2.03 or, alternatively, the Micro Cut M2.02. If you want to lay down a protective layer afterwards, you can apply the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-ceramic-allround-c0-02-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eCeramic Allround C0.02 ceramic sealant\u003c\/a\u003e — the protective wax content of the P2.03 won't get in the way as long as you wipe the panel down with IPA first. Once you've worked it out, buff the polish residue to a high gloss with a soft Polish \u0026amp; Sealing Towel — don't lean on it, just finish it off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eResults and where the abrasive gloss polish P2.03 shines\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe P2.03 delivers its best results on lightly to moderately weathered paint — which is exactly the state most daily-driven cars are in. The typical jobs: a car that's spent years parked outside with a clear coat gone slightly matt from UV; a used car carrying holograms from car-wash visits; a brand-new car showing its first swirl marks after the first run through winter. In every one of those cases the P2.03 has enough correction depth to bring the surface back to a high gloss without needing an upstream heavy-cut step. The same goes for motorbikes, vans and motorhomes: wherever there's painted bodywork, the P2.03 can go to work — by machine or with a hand applicator for small areas and tight spots. For pro detailers the P2.03 is especially worth a look when no ceramic coating follows the job and the polish's wax film is enough to serve as short-term protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The pad decides the character of the P2.03. What we see day-to-day: for light holograms and refresh jobs we'd reach for the soft \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-polierpad-micro-cut-soft-foam-pad-violett-2024\"\u003eMicro Cut Soft Foam Pad Violett\u003c\/a\u003e — that maxes out the gloss and goes easy on delicate paint. For visible weathering and heavier hazing, grab the hard \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-polierpad-micro-cut-hard-foam-pad-violett-2024\"\u003eMicro Cut Hard Foam Pad Violett\u003c\/a\u003e, which lifts the cut of the P2.03 noticeably without you swapping the polish itself. Only ever drop five pea-sized blobs on the pad — the P2.03 goes a long way, and too much polish makes it harder to work out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eP2.03 compared: when to reach for Micro Cut M2.02 or Fine Cut F6.01 instead?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Koch-Chemie line-up has three polishes that look like they do similar jobs at first glance, but in the detail they have clearly different strengths. The \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-micro-cut-m2-02-hochglanz-antihologramm-politur\"\u003eMicro Cut M2.02\u003c\/a\u003e is the pure anti-hologram and high-gloss polish with no protective content — the right call when a ceramic or polymer coating follows the polish, because no wax residue messes with the bonding surface. If you want to seal straight after polishing, you take the M2.02 and wipe the panel down with IPA. The P2.03, on the other hand, is the better shout when the paint needs to stay looking good for a few weeks or months with no sealant — the built-in wax content protects and shines at the same time. The Fine Cut F6.01 sits a step up in abrasiveness: cut rating 6.0 for medium scratches and oxidation. If you've got deeper defects the P2.03 can't fully correct on its own, you start with the F6.01 and finish with the P2.03 — that's the classic two-stage Koch-Chemie system. If you've already knocked out the correction work before the P2.03 with a hard \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-polierpad-heavy-cut-foam-pad-rot-2024\"\u003eHeavy Cut Foam Pad Rot\u003c\/a\u003e and a stronger polish, the P2.03 gets you to that perfect finish. The competition — say Menzerna Super Finish SF 3800 or Rupes UNO Protect — also offers gloss polishes with a protective component, though often without the same flexibility from pad choice. Koch-Chemie's colour system makes the pad pairing especially practical: violet pad = P2.03, no risk of mixing them up under time pressure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho is the Koch-Chemie Lack-Polish violett P2.03 the right choice for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe P2.03 is the perfect pick for ambitious hobby detailers and professional reconditioners after a product that brings correction and high gloss together in a single bottle. If you're working a car with light to moderate weathering and don't necessarily want to lay down a sealant afterwards, the P2.03 is the most efficient finishing step in your workflow. For pros prepping cars day in, day out who want to trim their working time, the built-in protection regularly saves a separate sealing step. If, on the other hand, you run nothing but ceramic coatings and always IPA-wipe after polishing, you're better off with the pure \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/koch-chemie-micro-cut-m2-02-hochglanz-antihologramm-politur\"\u003eMicro Cut M2.02\u003c\/a\u003e — because there's no wax residue in play. For the combination of genuine cut, maximum gloss and paint-protecting effect in one pass, the Koch-Chemie Lack-Polish violett P2.03 is a real benchmark on the German market.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":48496767959375,"sku":"D1-KCX-457001","price":20.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-lack-polish-violett-p2-03-abrasive-glanzpolitur_1000ml.jpg?v=1710777545"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-micro-cut-m3-02-micro-schleifpolitur","title":"Micro Cut \"M3.02\" Micro-Abrasive Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut \"M3.02\" — Micro-Abrasive Polish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie Micro Cut M3.02\u003c\/strong\u003e is a modern, silicone-oil-free \u003cstrong\u003emicro-abrasive polish\u003c\/strong\u003e for clearing polishing haze, holograms and fine scratches. This \u003cstrong\u003ehigh-end polish\u003c\/strong\u003e runs on ultra-homogeneous abrasives that pull a brilliant, lasting high-gloss finish even out of sensitive, dark paint under harsh light. The fine scratches and holograms get cut out mechanically — not just covered up. That's what makes it so efficient and easy to work with, and it leaves nothing behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOutstanding cut:\u003c\/strong\u003e removes fine scratches down to 3000-grit on every paint type.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGloss that holds:\u003c\/strong\u003e the fine, specialised abrasives lay down a brilliant high-gloss finish.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to use:\u003c\/strong\u003e the polish wipes off effortlessly and leaves no residue.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSpot-on results on every paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eMicro Cut M3.02\u003c\/strong\u003e works on all paint types, scratch-resistant clearcoats included. Whether you're chasing out light holograms or deep polishing haze, this polish gets you flawless results. On dark, sensitive colours especially it pulls an even, deep-gloss look. Thanks to its fine abrasives it doesn't put new scratches in, and it'll deliver on even the trickiest paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eQuick and easy to work\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best results, run the polish with a dual-action machine and Koch-Chemie's \u003cstrong\u003eMicro Cut Pad\u003c\/strong\u003e. Take the machine up to its top speed to get the full effect of the abrasive polish. A rotary will do the job too. The key thing: wet the pad through before you start, so the polish spreads evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMaximum gloss, zero residue\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eMicro Cut M3.02\u003c\/strong\u003e leaves no unwanted polish film on the paint. The aluminium oxide in the polish breaks down completely as you work, so you end up with a clear, transparent finish. No smears, nothing left behind — exactly what you want for proper paint correction.\u003cspan class=\"whitespace-nowrap text-token-text-secondary dark:text-token-text-tertiary\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":48498306613583,"sku":"D1-KCX-403001","price":46.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250 ml","offer_id":48498306580815,"sku":"D1-KCX-403250","price":15.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-micro-cut-m3-02-micro-schleifpolitur.jpg?v=1710779683"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-one-cut-finish-p6-02-hochglanzpolitur-versiegelung","title":"One Cut \u0026 Finish \"P6.02\" High-Gloss Polish with Sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003eKoch-Chemie One Cut \u0026amp; Finish \"P6.02\" High-Gloss Polish with Sealant\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe high-gloss polish your car has been asking for: \u003c\/strong\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eKoch-Chemie One Cut \u0026amp; Finish \"P6.02\" High-Gloss Polish with Sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e is your go-to for permanently pulling out polishing haze, holograms and scratches. At the same time it lays down a brilliant high gloss and gives you a reliable sealant effect. Thanks to homogeneous abrasive grains, you get an outstanding, long-lasting high-gloss finish. This clever polish marries cut and gloss in one pass, so the prep work stays economical and efficient. The \u003cstrong\u003eOne Cut \u0026amp; Finish P6.02\u003c\/strong\u003e goes a long way, works easily and wipes off clean. It carries carnauba wax and non-volatile silicones for extra protection and shine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCuts out scratches:\u003c\/strong\u003e Permanently removes haze, holograms and scratches from P 2000 grit upward.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGloss and sealant in one:\u003c\/strong\u003e Homogeneous abrasive grains give you a brilliant high-gloss finish and a long-lasting sealant effect.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to work:\u003c\/strong\u003e Goes a long way, polishes nicely and wipes off easily, with carnauba wax and non-volatile silicones.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBest results with the One Cut Pad and a high-performance dual action\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best results we'd grab the \u003cstrong\u003eOne Cut \u0026amp; Finish P6.02\u003c\/strong\u003e together with our dedicated One Cut Pad and a high-performance dual action with at least 15mm throw, or a forced-rotation machine. Drop five pea-sized blobs of polish evenly across the pad and spread them into the panel at the lowest speed. Then work it with medium pressure in crosshatch passes to land a flawless result. Only use the sponges made for this product, and reach for our ultrasonically cut Polish \u0026amp; Sealing Towel to wipe off the residue without putting scratches back in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eStrong cut and gloss ratings for spot-on results\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eOne Cut \u0026amp; Finish P6.02\u003c\/strong\u003e sits at a cut rating of 6.0 and a gloss rating of 8.0. Those numbers tell you how hard it cuts out scratches and just how much gloss this one lays down. That sweet spot between bite and shine is exactly what makes the polish so economical and efficient to work with. The carnauba wax and non-volatile silicones on board add a long-lasting layer of protection and shine on top.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to handle, top-shelf results\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eOne Cut \u0026amp; Finish P6.02\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't just a strong cutter — it's a pleasure to work with. The formula polishes easily and wipes off clean, so you save time and elbow grease. The non-volatile silicones and carnauba wax it carries add extra protection and lock in a lasting, glossy finish. This polish is a must-have for any car enthusiast who won't settle for less than a perfect result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c!----\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":48503392141647,"sku":"D1-KCX-469001","price":60.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"250 ml","offer_id":48503392108879,"sku":"D1-KCX-469250","price":18.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-one-cut-finish-p6-02-hochglanzpolitur-versiegelung.jpg?v=1710794322"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur","title":"XTREME Polish+Wax 3 Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFine scratches and hazing gone, paint sealed — with the SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does a finishing polish actually do? This light combination polish pulls out fine scratches, hazing and oxidation — and seals the paint in the same step with Hybrid NetProtection Technology for lasting protection and real depth of gloss.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNot every paint defect calls for an aggressive cutting compound. If you want to freshen up paint that is already in good shape, or clear the fine water spots and hazing left behind after winter, you do not need a heavy cutting product — you need a finishing polish that works gently and protects at the same time. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e is exactly that: a light combination polish that pulls fine scratches, swirl marks and oxidation haze out of the clear coat and seals it in one single pass with Hybrid NetProtection Technology. The result is mirror gloss with depth — without loading the paint more than it needs. As the finest member of the XTREME Polish+Wax range, it is the logical pick for the last polishing stage in a multi-step workflow, or as a stand-alone product on cars whose paint is still healthy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo what does \"light cut\" mean in practice? Clear coat has a limited film thickness — on most cars somewhere between 30 and 60 microns. Every polish takes a slice of that. An aggressive cutting compound can remove 5–10 microns in a single pass, a fine finishing polish less than 1–2 microns. That makes a real difference to how long the paint lasts: with the right polish at the right strength you can keep the clear coat in shape year after year without the film thickness dropping into awkward territory. This is where a well-graded set of polishes pays off — and the Polish+Wax 3 fills exactly the slot most car owners are missing: the gentle, regularly usable finishing polish with a sealant built in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLight cut for gentle paint correction.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Polish+Wax 3 runs fine abrasives that pull surface scratches and micro-marring out of the clear coat without digging deeper than they have to. That makes it the safe pick for soft paint, older cars, or as the closing step after a harder cutting stage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — polish and seal in one.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NPT sealant in the bottle ties inorganic and organic protection components into a weather-resistant network right on the paint. That saves you a separate wax or sealant pass and still gives you measurable water beading and protection against the elements.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDeep gloss and colour brilliance as the end result.\u003c\/strong\u003e The mix of fine abrasion and the sealant that follows leaves a mirror finish with real depth. On dark paint especially, the difference to an untreated or merely waxed panel jumps straight out — the paint looks fresh, rich and three-dimensional.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the Polish+Wax 3 by machine with a soft finishing pad — low to medium speed, light pressure. That spreads the cut evenly without stressing the clear coat. Working by hand? Small sections (30 × 30 cm), cross-hatch passes, medium pressure as you work the product in. Once it has flashed off (the surface goes slightly dull), buff it back — that is when the full gloss shows up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — the sealant formula behind the Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology (NPT) is the technical heart of the whole XTREME Polish+Wax range. Behind the name sits a sealing approach that links organic and inorganic protection components together — think of a chemical network built straight onto the clear coat. Inorganic components such as silicon-based compounds are hard, UV-stable and shield against mechanical attack from dirt and water. Organic components such as waxes or polymers are flexible, grip the paint well and deliver that typical gloss and soft feel underhand. Linking both systems gives you a protective layer that is neither too rigid nor too soft — it moves with temperature swings, it stays put, and it invites water to bead. For you that means one product, two jobs. No separate waxing, no separate sealing after polishing. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e closes both steps in one pass and still lands a result that can hold its own against a sealant applied afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo where is the difference between the Polish+Wax 3 and other one-step products? The key is the quality of the abrasives. Cheap combination polishes often lean on coarse abrasive bonds that show quick results but hit the paint harder. The fine abrasives in the Polish+Wax 3 are sized to work through hazing, water marks and swirls effectively without cutting into deeper layers of clear coat. That looks after the material long term and lets you reach for the bottle regularly without worrying about thinning the clear coat over the years — a decisive edge over stronger cutting compounds in continuous use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more plus: the product is easy to control. Where aggressive polishes can burn through an edge or a body line in seconds, this fine formulation is forgiving — even if you are less experienced, the risk of over-polishing stays low. The NPT sealant that builds up during the polishing pass needs no curing time like a ceramic product and no separate coat — it forms as you polish and is active the moment you buff off. That simplifies the whole routine and makes the Polish+Wax 3 a dependable all-rounder for regular paint care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the XTREME Polish+Wax 3 — step by step to a mirror finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore any polish comes a proper wash: get the dirt, road film and loose grit off the paint — ideally with a two-bucket wash or a foam wash, so nothing abrasive stays behind on the panel. If you want the maximum out of it, run an iron decontamination step before polishing to pull embedded iron particles. The polishing pass with the Polish+Wax 3 then happens on clean, dry paint. The product goes on by machine or by hand: with a polisher (dual action or rotary) and a soft finishing pad you get even results across big panels, while hand application suits smaller corrections or anyone without a machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe way we recommend: a small blob of product onto the pad, spread it at low speed, then work it in evenly at medium speed. Do not work in direct sun or on hot paint — the product grabs too fast and buffing off gets harder. After working it in, let it flash off briefly (until the surface goes slightly dull) and then buff with a clean microfibre. The result shows immediately: an evenly glossy panel with no residue. The Polish+Wax 3 also suits beginners in paint care — the light colour of the product and the easy dosing make it simple to hit the right amount and avoid going over the same spot too often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor trim, mirrors or tight sections we recommend a smaller polishing pad or hand application with a folded microfibre. That way you get an even result in awkward spots too, without slinging product onto rubber seals or plastic parts. If you are planning several passes — on a car that has gone a long time without care, say — check the result in proper light (a detailing lamp or daylight) after each pass before you lay down the next one. That saves you pointless repeats and spares both time and material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when the Polish+Wax 3 is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME Polish+Wax 3 is ideal for cars whose paint is fundamentally sound but would benefit from a refresh. Typical situations: after the winter break, when leftover grime and water spots have baked into the clear coat; after a cutting stage with a stronger compound, as the closing fine step; or after a drive through sand or fine dust that has left light swirls on the paint. With heavier scratches or deeper oxidation damage — visible grooves, sanding marks, dullness across a whole panel — it runs into its limits. In that case a stronger cutting compound is the right first move, with the Polish+Wax 3 as the finisher.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt works especially well on dark colours such as black, dark blue or graphite metallic — that is where sensitivity to fine scratches and haze is highest, and where the visual payoff of a successful polish is most impressive. On light paint it works just as well, but the before-and-after difference is naturally a bit less dramatic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt also suits cars with a factory clear-coat sealant or a protective film, as long as the sealant is not already too thick or too hard — in that case, check whether the protective layer is still intact before you polish. After a pass with the Polish+Wax 3, a further sealant is optional, since the NPT technology has already built a layer of protection. If you still want more, you can lay a compatible sealant or a ceramic straight on top — paint that has just been polished and degreased is the ideal base for it. Regular care with the finishing polish in spring and autumn shields the paint through the toughest stretches of the year — after a winter of road salt and before the UV-heavy summer season — and keeps it long term in a state that barely needs correcting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolish+Wax 3 compared — where it sits in the SONAX XTREME polish line-up\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME Polish+Wax line is sorted by cut: the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/a\u003e offers a medium cut — ideal for hazing, but also for lighter scratches and medium oxidation. The Polish+Wax 3 is the finer option: it corrects less aggressively, which makes it the natural choice for the closing polishing step or for paint that is already well looked after. Both share the Hybrid NPT sealant, they differ in cut. If you want a clean, soft finish after heavy correction with the Polish+Wax 2 or a pro-grade compound, you close the workflow with the Polish+Wax 3 — and tick off polishing and sealing in the same step. This two-stage approach — medium correction first, then refining and sealing — is a proven workflow in professional paint correction, and you can run it with XTREME products without moving up to the pro machine polishing line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs an alternative, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the modern ceramic option — it combines light abrasion with a ceramic sealant that builds a harder, longer-lasting layer than the NPT technology. If you are after maximum durability from the sealant and still want to polish and protect with one product, the Ceramic Polish takes you a step further. For the regular, simpler refresh with little effort, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegelung\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e is an alternative: a light hand wax polish for quick depth of gloss between care intervals. The Polish+Wax 3 sits between these products — more corrective bite than BrilliantWax, more accessible than a ceramic system. For the systematic detailer who picks products by the state of the paint, it is the natural first pick for the status \"paint in good shape, a few things to tidy up\" — before you decide whether heavier correction is really necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the Polish+Wax 3 from SONAX pays off for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right product for anyone who wants to keep their paint in top shape regularly without reaching for an aggressive compound every time. It suits paint-care beginners looking for a forgiving product, and experienced detailers who use it as the closing stage in a graded polishing workflow. The mix of genuine correction and a built-in long-term sealant makes it one of the most versatile products in the XTREME range. The 500 ml bottle covers several full car treatments and is good value for that. If you care about lasting paint protection and want to take it one step further, run the Polish+Wax 3 as the correction stage and finish with a ceramic sealant for maximum durability.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOur verdict: if you want an all-round paint product that works fast, easily and with a visible result — and seals on top of that — the Polish+Wax 3 has you covered. It is not a tool for heavy correction on deep damage, but for everything that comes after that, or that is needed in between, it has the right format: friendly and forgiving to use, consistent and even in the result, fair on price. It is a particularly good match for cars with paint that is looked after but no longer factory-fresh — the broad middle of the fleet, three to ten years on the road. In that class there is often not much missing from a top result, and the light cut of the Polish+Wax 3 is enough to unlock that potential in full.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160876949839,"sku":"D1-SNX-0202200","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Polish-Wax-3-9.png?v=1721514206"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur","title":"XTREME Polish+Wax 2 Car Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove fine scratches and build lasting deep gloss with SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2 do? This all-in-one polish with a medium cut removes fine wash marks and hazing while sealing at the same time with Hybrid NetProtection Technology — polishing and sealing in one step.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA car with lightly stressed paint — fine wash marks, a bit of hazing, the first UV-induced dullness — doesn't need an aggressive correction compound. What it needs is a product that polishes the paint gently, brings the colour depth back and lays down a protective seal at the same time. That's exactly where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is strong: an all-in-one polish with a medium cut that pairs fine abrasives with Hybrid NetProtection Technology. The result is mirror-like deep gloss, seriously good water beading and a durable protective layer that goes on in a single pass — no separate sealing round. If you want to refresh your paint regularly without spending hours on correction, the Polish+Wax 2 is the one to grab.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePolishing and sealing in one step — time saved, nothing given up.\u003c\/strong\u003e Most polishes need a separate sealing step once the polishing is done. The Polish+Wax 2 builds Hybrid NetProtection Technology straight into the polish: while the abrasives work the fine scratches out, the NPT components lay down a protective layer at the same time. That saves time and makes sure the freshly polished surface is sealed right away.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMirror-like deep gloss with a proper colour boost.\u003c\/strong\u003e The extremely fine abrasives in the Polish+Wax 2 are tuned for as-new and regularly maintained paint — they level the clearcoat without pulling off more material than needed. What you get is an evenly mirroring surface with deep colour saturation, especially on dark paint.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — a seal that bonds with the paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e NPT links inorganic and organic protective components into a stable network on the paint surface. That network handles the weather better than a simple wax layer and protects long term against UV, acid rain and organic deposits like bug splatter and bird droppings.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Protect plastic and rubber trim before you polish with the XTREME KunststoffGel Außen — polish residue in shut lines and on rubber seals is a pain to get out and leaves white marks. Lay the polish down on dry paint, spread it thin and work it in straight away with a medium-hard microfibre cloth — don't let it dry on. For machine work with a polishing pad set, the Polish+Wax 2 gives especially even results, because the heat from the machine kicks off the NPT cross-linking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — how polishing and sealing work chemically in one step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology is the chemical heart of the Polish+Wax 2 and explains why the product does more than a simple \"polish with a bit of wax in it\". Conventional all-in-one polishes use wax as the sealing component — that works, but wax layers are comparatively short-lived and sensitive to alkaline cleaners and UV. Hybrid NPT takes a different route: it combines inorganic protective components (similar to the ones used in mineral sealants) with organic polymers to form a hybrid network. That hybrid structure bonds more strongly to the clearcoat than pure wax and stays more flexible than purely inorganic sealants, which crack sooner under mechanical stress. The result is a protective layer that brings together the best of both worlds: the chemical resistance of inorganic compounds and the mechanical flexibility of organic polymers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasives in the Polish+Wax 2 are set up for a medium cut — they take out fine scratches in depth class 1 to 2 (wash marks, brush strikes, light holograms) without digging into the clearcoat. That's an important difference to more aggressive compounds used on heavily weathered or deeply damaged paint: a gentle cut protects the clearcoat from losing too much material and extends the life of the paint. On as-new cars and regularly maintained paint, the medium cut of the Polish+Wax 2 is the right way into paint care — treat your paint twice a year with it and you keep it in as-new condition long term, without burning through your clearcoat reserve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA common misunderstanding: that an all-in-one polish is less effective than separate polishing and sealing steps. That's not true across the board. On badly neglected paint with deep scratches and an oxidised surface, a multi-stage correction with an aggressive cutting compound, a finishing polish and a separate sealant makes sense. For everything else — as-new paint, regular maintenance polishing, a seasonal refresh — an all-in-one polish is the more efficient answer. It saves time, cuts the number of products you need and delivers results that are more than enough for everyday use. The Polish+Wax 2 closes the gap between \"not polishing at all\" and \"a professional multi-step correction\" perfectly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Polish+Wax 2 properly — step by step to deep gloss\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorking with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e always starts with a thorough wash. Dirt, grit and brake dust left on the paint act like sandpaper when you polish and cut scratches far worse than what you started with. After the wash, dry the car completely — polishes work far better on dry paint and grip more evenly. Before you start, protect plastic and rubber areas with masking tape or the XTREME KunststoffGel so no polish residue creeps into the shut lines.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe polish goes onto a SONAX applicator sponge or a polishing ball and gets spread over the paint in even, overlapping passes. Technique decides the result here: straight back-and-forth or lightly crossing lines beat circular motions, which can leave holograms. Lay the polish down thin and even — too much product only makes the wipe-off harder and doesn't improve anything. Split the paint into sections you can handle: bonnet, roof, boot lid, one side at a time. Once it's spread, wipe it off straight away with a clean, medium-hard microfibre cloth, before the polish dries on. Dried residue is a pain to get out and can leave streaks. For the best finish, go over the panel again after the wipe-off with a second, fresh microfibre and buff it dry — that second pass pulls the last residues off and brings out the full gloss the NPT seal makes possible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA classic mistake when working by hand is too much pressure. Polishes don't need you to lean on them — the chemical action of the abrasives is enough to level fine scratches. Too much pressure builds heat, which breaks the abrasives down too fast and cures the sealing components too early, before they've spread evenly across the paint. Light, even pressure with calm, overlapping passes is the recipe for consistent results. Working outdoors, watch out for direct sun: if the paint is hot (above about 30°C), move into the shade or wait for it to cool, because the heat cuts your working time right down and dry spots can form.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 is explicitly suited to machine work. A dual-action polisher with a medium-hard pad gives more even results than working by hand, because the machine keeps the pressure and the speed constant. One thing that matters: prime the pad fully with polish before you start, so the first pass doesn't run dry. After machine work, buff to a high gloss with a fresh microfibre. The water beading from the NPT seal shows after the very first application — by the first rain at the latest you'll see the classic lotus effect on the freshly treated paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when the Polish+Wax 2 is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 was developed for a clearly defined job and it delivers there: as-new cars (0–3 years) with fine everyday scratches, regularly maintained cars that need a seasonal refresh (spring care after winter, autumn care before the salt season), and paint with light UV-induced hazing. For that range the medium cut is exactly right: it clears the defects that are there completely and leaves no unnecessary damage in the clearcoat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the Polish+Wax 2 stops: for deep scratches, heavy oxidation, orange peel or strong holograms you need a stronger cutting stage. The XTREME Polish+Wax 3 has a stronger cut and is the right choice for harder-worn paint — often the combination of Polish+Wax 3 as the first step and Polish+Wax 2 as the finishing step is the most professional way through neglected paint. And on fresh factory paint that's still \"green\" and shows no defects at all, a pure sealant with no polishing step is the better call, so you don't stress the paint for nothing. In those cases the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-protect-shine-hochglanz-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Protect+Shine high-gloss sealant\u003c\/a\u003e without abrasives is the product for the job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 really shines on dark paint — black, dark blue, dark grey — because those colours show deep gloss and colour saturation most clearly. Light paint (white, silver) benefits too, but the difference between treated and untreated is far more dramatic on dark surfaces. On metallic paint the NPT seal makes sure the metallic flakes reflect evenly instead of being muted by haze — an effect that looks especially impressive on red and blue metallics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother job it's made for is prepping a used car before you buy or sell. If you're buying, the state of the paint tells you quickly how well the car was looked after — and freshly polished paint is a strong signal of care and value retention. If you're selling, a careful polish can visibly lift the price you get. One to two hours of work for a full polishing treatment — and material costs of under 20 euros — can easily justify several hundred euros more at sale. The Polish+Wax 2 is especially good for this because it gives solid results even without a machine, and the seal presents the car at its best for potential buyers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 compared — where it sits in the SONAX XTREME polish range\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME polish range from SONAX is laid out clearly by cut and purpose. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e takes the middle spot: more cut than a plain wax care stick, less than an aggressive correction compound. The XTREME Polish+Wax 3 has a stronger cut, is built for older and more weathered paint and can take out deeper scratches — but it also demands more control, because too much abrasion can damage the clearcoat. For getting into active paint care, the Polish+Wax 2 is therefore the safer recommendation, because it does less harm if your technique isn't dialled in yet. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegel\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e isn't really a cutting product at all but a polish with a wax seal for very light defects and gentle surface care — it has less cut than the Polish+Wax 2, but its higher wax content gives a soft, warm gloss that people prefer on classics and rare cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to products from other makers, the Polish+Wax 2 is one of the most complete answers in its price bracket, because it polishes and seals in one step without giving anything up. Plenty of entry-level all-in-one polishes sacrifice either the cut or the sealing performance — the Polish+Wax 2 keeps both at a professional level. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e is the stronger alternative when the defects are pronounced, and can be used as a first stage ahead of the Polish+Wax 2. Running both — Polish+Wax 3 to kill the defects, then Polish+Wax 2 for the refinement and the final seal — is a proper two-step workflow that gets great results even on badly neglected paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the Polish+Wax 2 is right for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right choice for anyone who wants to take paint care into their own hands and has a car with lightly to moderately stressed paint. It's simple enough for beginners with no polishing experience, and precise enough for experienced detailers looking for a fast, reliable maintenance polishing step. The 500 ml bottle covers several full cars and gives you very good value for the quality on offer — both the cut and the sealing performance of the Hybrid NPT sit clearly above comparable all-in-one polishes from the supermarket shelf. You'll notice the difference by the first rain at the latest: the water beading from the NPT seal is obvious even to a complete novice and a reliable sign the seal went on properly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor seasonal paint care we recommend the Polish+Wax 2 twice a year — in spring to clear salt residue and the micro-scratches winter leaves behind, and in autumn to prepare the paint for the hard winter season. That routine keeps the paint in a state where most fine defects never form in the first place, because the seal works as a buffer between the paint and the elements. Stick to that rhythm and use a quick detailer for the short-term refresh between polishes, and you'll have well-kept paint all year without a big time investment. Regular care isn't just about looks either — it protects the value of the car long term, because well-kept paint ages far more slowly and keeps the bodywork safe from corrosion risk through creeping moisture. At Detailing1 you'll find the polish together with the kit that goes with it — applicator sponges, microfibre cloths and polishing pad sets for machine work — for the complete polishing workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160877343055,"sku":"D1-SNX-02072000","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Polish-Wax-2-0.png?v=1721514375"},{"product_id":"carpro-clearcut-rapid-cut-compound-schleifpolitur","title":"ClearCut Rapid-Cut Compound Cutting Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eCarPro \"ClearCut\" Rapid-Cut Compound Cutting Polish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCarPro ClearCut\u003c\/strong\u003e doesn't just impress with how much this \u003cstrong\u003ecutting compound\u003c\/strong\u003e pulls off the paint — the finish it leaves is just as good. 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PROTECT)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the go-to answer when you want fast, no-fuss car care. This \u003cstrong\u003eall-in-one polish\u003c\/strong\u003e pulls out moderate scratches, brings the paint up to a glossy finish and lays down a protective sealant – all in a single pass. Its unique blend of advanced abrasives, synthetic sealants and carnauba wax delivers standout results that hold up for up to 90 days. Whether you run it by machine or work it by hand, \u003cstrong\u003eUno Protect\u003c\/strong\u003e is made for express detailing, dealerships, used-car reconditioning and auction prep.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003col\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRemoves scratches and defects\u003c\/strong\u003e: one pass is enough to knock out moderate to light paint flaws.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-gloss finish\u003c\/strong\u003e: brings the surface up to a bright, wet-look shine.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLong-lasting protection\u003c\/strong\u003e: leaves a protective layer that holds for up to 90 days.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eEffective scratch removal and high-gloss polishing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eRupes \"Uno Protect\" One Step Polish \u0026amp; Sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e is more than just a polish – it's the whole job in one bottle. Thanks to its advanced abrasives, it clears moderate to light scratches and other paint defects without a fight, while pulling the surface up to a high-gloss finish that has your car looking fresh again. By hand or by machine, the result lands every time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLong-lasting protection for your car\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith \u003cstrong\u003eUno Protect\u003c\/strong\u003e you're not just polishing – you're sealing at the same time. The special mix of synthetic sealants and carnauba wax lays down a tough layer that guards your car for up to 90 days. That means paint that not only shines but also stands up to whatever the weather throws at it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eVersatile ways to use it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhether you're a pro or looking after your own car at home, \u003cstrong\u003eRupes \"Uno Protect\" One Step Polish \u0026amp; Sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right call. It goes on and wipes off easily and plays nicely with any polishing action – Random Orbital, Gear Driven or Rotary. Dial in your pad choice and you can tune both the cutting and the finishing to exactly what the paint needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c!----\u003e","brand":"Rupes","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":49268635074895,"sku":"D1-RUP-9PROTECT250","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"1000ml","offer_id":49268635107663,"sku":"D1-RUP-9PROTECT","price":39.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":49268635140431,"sku":"D1-RUP-9PROTECT5L","price":181.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/uno-protect-one-step-polish-and-sealant-compound-1000ml-bottle.jpg?v=1720387604"},{"product_id":"rupes-uno-advanced-protection-maintenance-polish-politur","title":"\"Uno Advanced\" Protection \u0026 Maintenance Polish (9.ADVANCED) Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRupes \"Uno Advanced\" Protection \u0026amp; Maintenance Polish (9.ADVANCED) Polish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMeet the next step in ultra-finishing with the \u003cstrong\u003eRupes \"Uno Advanced\" Protection \u0026amp; Maintenance Polish\u003c\/strong\u003e. This one-of-a-kind polish pairs cutting-edge micro-abrasive tech with advanced nano protection to pull light surface defects and lay down seriously durable protection that holds for up to 12 months. That makes keeping your car's surfaces clean day-to-day a whole lot easier.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003col\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLight defect removal\u003c\/strong\u003e: pulls light surface defects with ease and leaves a glossy finish.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLong-term protection\u003c\/strong\u003e: up to 12 months of protection against the elements and grime.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to use\u003c\/strong\u003e: works on its own or as a second step after heavier cutting.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting-edge micro-abrasive technology\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eRupes \"Uno Advanced\" polish\u003c\/strong\u003e runs on the latest micro-abrasive tech, built to clear fine scratches and holograms for good. It goes on easy and leaves an even, slick surface you notice straight away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eLong-lasting nano protection\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThanks to the advanced nano protection, the \u003cstrong\u003eUno Advanced polish\u003c\/strong\u003e lays down a protective layer that holds for up to 12 months. It shields the paint from the elements and grime and makes regular washing far less of a chore — so your car stays clean and glossy for longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eVersatile ways to use it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou can run the \u003cstrong\u003eUno Advanced polish\u003c\/strong\u003e on its own for light correction and protection in one hit, or bring it in as a second step after a more aggressive polish. Either way, you get a noticeably slicker, glossier finish. For the best results, reach for the \u003cstrong\u003eRUPES D-A Ultra-Fine Foam\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eD-A Ultra-Fine Microfiber Pads\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c!----\u003e","brand":"Rupes","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":49268650836303,"sku":"D1-RUP-9ADVANCED250","price":17.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"1000ml","offer_id":49268650869071,"sku":"D1-RUP-9ADVANCED","price":56.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/UNO-ADVANCED-Stand-Alone-Protection-Maintenance-Polish-1000ml.jpg?v=1720388125"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur","title":"XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePaint correction and ceramic protection in a single pass — with SONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can an all-in-one polish with ceramic technology do? It corrects light paint defects like swirls and holograms and, at the same time, leaves a hydrophobic Si-Carbon protective layer behind — with no separate sealing step.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you detail cars, you know the effort a classic three-stage workflow takes: polishing for the correction, finishing for the gloss, sealing for the protection. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e rolls those steps into one: it corrects light to medium paint defects, brings up a high gloss once you buff off the residue, and leaves behind a Si-Carbon-based protective layer with a hydrostatic effect. The result is a compact workflow that's the right call for regular car care and vehicles in good to normal condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree effects in one step: correction, gloss, protection.\u003c\/strong\u003e The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" carries abrasives for the paint correction plus Si-Carbon compounds for the ceramic protection. As you polish, swirls and fine scratches are cut away; as you buff off the residue, the formula leaves a protective layer that makes water bead off and shields the paint from fresh dirt.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks by hand and by machine.\u003c\/strong\u003e You can lay the product down by hand with an applicator sponge or with a DA orbital. For experienced users on a DA orbital the result is more even and more efficient; for occasional users without a machine, hand application is an accessible alternative.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSi-Carbon technology for a lasting hydrophobic effect.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Si-Carbon compounds in the formula are the same technology SONAX uses across the XTREME Ceramic range. Once dry, they form a thin, even protective layer on the clear coat that repels water and light dirt and keeps the car cleaner for longer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Work the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" in with a DA orbital on a medium-soft to soft pad. Since the product holds both abrasives and ceramic binders, too high a machine speed works against you — the ceramic particles set unevenly when they overheat. Recommended speed: 3,500–4,500 rpm. After the polishing pass, let the product haze over briefly (finger test: a slightly cloudy film that feels dry to the touch) before you buff it off with a clean microfibre — that's when the protective layer shows its full effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSi-Carbon technology in the all-in-one polish — how correction and protection work at the same time\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eClassic wax polishes had never fully cracked the challenge of combining abrasives and protective waxes in one formula — either the cut suffered or the protection did. Modern all-in-one products with ceramic technology rely on graded particle sizes and new binders that allow a sequential effect: first the abrasives correct, then the ceramic binders lay down a protective layer as the product dries. This phase separation within the formula is the core difference from older AIO products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe basic principle of an all-in-one polish is combining two requirements that are actually opposites: abrasives for the cut and protective agents for the seal. The technological balance between the two components decides how well an AIO product works day-to-day. Too many abrasives disrupt the protective layer forming; too much protective agent lowers the cut and the correction. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e uses a tuned abrasive load for light to medium corrections, combined with Si-Carbon compounds that settle onto the clear coat as a thin protective layer while the product dries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSi-Carbon technology is the umbrella term for organic silicon-based compounds that deliver protection similar to pure ceramic coatings but are easier to lay down. They show hydrophobic behaviour — water beads off rather than sheeting — and form a barrier against light dirt like road dust, bird droppings and insect residue, which then come off more easily at the next wash. The durability of such a Si-Carbon layer from an AIO product runs to several months depending on care intensity and environmental load — less lasting than a dedicated ceramic coating, but a clear gain in protection over a plain polish with no sealing component.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasives in the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" are calibrated to cut swirls, fine holograms and light-reflected micro-scratches on normal clear coat without biting into deeper layers of the clear coat. This isn't an aggressive cutting product — for deep scratches, oxidation or badly damaged paint you need a dedicated correction product. The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the tool for what's called \"maintenance correction\" — the regular light refresh that keeps a car in good paint condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" — step by step, by hand and by machine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore an all-in-one polish can reach its full potential, the paint has to start out clean. Plenty of people skip the decontamination stage and then find the polishing result is patchy or the correction they expected just isn't there. Iron particles, tar spots and bonded contamination form a layer on the paint that loads up the pad and gums up the abrasives in the product. A careful decontamination step is the basic requirement for a good AIO result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe paint should be thoroughly washed, decontaminated and dry before you start. Dirt, fallout or embedded particles on the surface would act like grit and cause uncontrolled cutting. A pre-treatment with an iron remover and, if needed, a clay bar brings the surface into ideal starting condition. Once it's dry and clean, you can start applying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBy hand: a little product on a soft applicator sponge — a pea-sized amount for an A4-sized area is enough. Work it in with circular motions and medium pressure until it's spread evenly. By machine with a DA orbital: spread the product across the pad, lay it out on the panel at low speed, then bring the speed up to 3,500–4,500 rpm and work in overlapping passes. Two or three passes give the cut time to work; then drop the speed and do a final spreading pass. Let the product haze on the panel briefly (finger test), then wipe off with a clean, soft microfibre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter a full panel pass — spread, polish, let it haze, wipe off — it pays to check the surface under a detailing light or in direct sunlight. Any spots left with holograms or product residue can be reworked right away. Catching weak spots early matters especially with an AIO product, because the dried protective agent is harder to correct once it's fully cured (24–48 hours).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important note on quantity: all-in-one products with a protective-crystal content tend to leave a streaky pattern when you apply too much, and it's hard to wipe off completely. Less product and several thin coats give a better result than one thick application. If you still feel resistance when wiping off, the product hasn't dried all the way through — wait a moment, then polish again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAll-in-one results day-to-day — gloss, protection and limits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter applying the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\", a dark paint colour shows the effect clearly: swirls and holograms are visibly reduced or gone, and the paint reflects more evenly and deeper. At the same time you can see a clear jump in hydrophobicity — water beads off in tight droplets, rainwater runs off the slope of the roof without smearing. This water-beading effect is an instant, visually measurable sign that the Si-Carbon layer is working.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common question is about use on dark vs. light paint colours. The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" suits every colour, but the correction effect shows up most clearly on dark colours (black, dark blue, dark grey), because swirls and holograms reflect more strongly on those surfaces. On light colours like white or silver the protection is just as present, but the visual improvement after polishing is less dramatic. That doesn't mean light-coloured cars don't benefit — the protection and the improved gloss are measurable on every colour.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe product's limits sit clearly with the degree of paint damage: the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is not a deep-correction product. Scratches you can feel with a fingernail, deep holograms after rotary polishing or pronounced oxidation go beyond the capacity of an AIO product. Here a two-stage workflow of correction (with a cutting product) and protection (with a dedicated sealant or the ceramic polish as a second step) is the right approach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature during application affects how the protective layer forms. Ideal is working in the garage or in the shade at temperatures between 15 and 25 °C. In direct sunlight the product dries too fast, before the Si-Carbon compounds can settle evenly — the result is streaks. If you don't have a garage, park the car in the shade for at least 30 minutes before applying and wait until the surface has cooled down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe durability of the protective layer from the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" depends on how the car is used, how often it's cared for and environmental load. Under normal conditions — regular hand washing, the odd bit of rain, no aggressive cleaning with alkaline shampoos — the layer typically holds for three to six months. If you're after longer durability and stronger protection, you can lay a coat of SONAX Ceramic coating over the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" — the AIO handles the correction, the coating the lasting protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCompared with other polishes — when all-in-one is enough and when it isn't\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a head-to-head with specialised polishes like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP \"03-06\"\u003c\/a\u003e the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the more accessible product: the NP \"03-06\" is a pure finishing polish with no protective content that brings out maximum gloss on pro orbitals or rotary machines — but leaves no seal behind. The Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is weaker on correction but delivers a complete result in one step. For professional detailing jobs where correction, finishing and sealing are done separately, the NP \"03-06\" is the stronger choice. For regular car care and maintenance polishing, the AIO is the more efficient solution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" differs through its modern ceramic-protection content instead of a classic wax component. Wax-based polishes give a warm paint glow with good water repellency, but they're more temperature-sensitive and less chemical-resistant than Si-Carbon layers. If you prefer up-to-date ceramic protection over a carnauba finish, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the better fit. If you love a deep, warm carnauba glow, go for the Polish+Wax line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you wash the car regularly with a coating-friendly shampoo — say the SONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo — you extend the life of the Si-Carbon layer considerably. Alkaline cleaners or aggressive wheel cleaners that get onto the paint can break down the layer's hydrophobicity early. The combination of Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" and Ceramic ActiveShampoo is a care cycle tuned to work together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important difference from classic single-step polishes with no protective content is how dirt behaves after application. On cars with ceramic or Si-Carbon protection, dirt sticks less and comes off more easily at the next wash. That cuts the wash pressure and the friction on the paint, which indirectly lowers the swirls building up for the next polishing step. So the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" sets up a positive spiral: correction plus protection, fewer new scratches, less effort next time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor users who already have a dedicated ceramic coating on the car, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" works as a refresh polish over the life of the protective layer. The abrasives are mild enough not to strip the coating layer entirely, while the Si-Carbon components can regenerate the hydrophobicity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the right choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal product for car owners who want to keep a good daily driver in top condition regularly, without running a multi-stage detailing workflow. If you polish twice a year, you benefit from a product that reduces swirls, lifts gloss and builds a protective layer in one pass. For professional detailers the AIO offers a practical use case at vehicle intake: lightly damaged new cars or used cars in good condition can be prepped quickly with the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" before a ceramic coating goes on as the protective layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish\u003c\/a\u003e comparison shows the positioning too: Cut+Finish is the professional version with more cut, higher concentration and PROFILINE quality standards — for businesses working through many cars a day with different paint conditions. The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is built for the demanding private user and the occasional pro job, looking for a complete result in one step. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 keeps the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" in the range permanently and recommends it as the entry point into the Ceramic care line. If you're unsure whether the AIO is enough for your car or whether you need a two-stage workflow with separate correction and sealing, you can get advice from Detailing1 — based on the paint condition and the protection you want, there's always a fitting product combination. A practical starting point is the fingernail test: if the nail slides over a scratch without catching, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" can correct it. If the nail catches, you need a dedicated cutting product. This simple rule helps you pick the right product for each car without a laborious light inspection. Regular care with the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" every two to four months keeps a well-kept car in a condition close to professional detailing — with minimal time and a product that needs no separate sealing step.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49345418592591,"sku":"D1-SNX-247200","price":18.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur_500ml.png?v=1721579808"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish","title":"PROFILINE NP \"03-06\" High-Gloss Polish (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFlawless high gloss as the final polishing step — SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06 do? This fine high-gloss finishing polish pulls out the last holograms and buffer trails, brings up a mirror-like clear-coat shine and gets the paint ready for sealants and ceramic coatings — perfect as the final polishing step after abrasive correction stages.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a multi-stage polishing job, the finishing polish is the real test of skill: it comes after the cutting polish and the medium correction polish, and its job is to clear out the last fine holograms, buffer trails and micro-scratches completely — leaving the clear coat with the kind of depth, clarity and reflection that sells a fresh detail. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro high-gloss finishing polish for exactly this last step: very fine cut, low haze, and a gloss that sets the paint up perfectly for sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUltra-fine cut for hologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 carries very finely milled abrasives that level the buffer trails left by cutting and medium polishes without laying down fresh scratches of their own. What you get is a paint surface with maximum reflection and minimal orange peel — the base for that mirror-deep gloss a freshly detailed car is meant to throw back at you.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBalanced viscosity for machine and hand work.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 is mixed so it runs on rotary and dual-action machines just as well as by hand on small panels. The viscosity lets it spread evenly across the pad, keeps it from slinging during machine work and stops it drying out too fast — which really matters on bigger panels, where you need to keep the working time consistent.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIdeal as a pre-coating step before sealing.\u003c\/strong\u003e A finishing polish before you seal isn't optional if maximum sealant durability and top gloss are the goal. The NP 03-06 leaves no protective film and no waxy fillers — once it's done, the clear coat is ready for the degrease step and the sealant, with no abrasive residue getting in the way of coating adhesion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 gives its best with a finishing foam pad on a dual-action machine — speed 3–4 (depending on the model), slow, overlapping passes. For the last pass, drop the speed to 2–3 to keep heat down and even the result out. Dose the polish sparingly: a small amount on the pad, spread it by working it in slowly by hand, then switch the machine on. After polishing, buff the area off with a clean microfibre and check for holograms straight away — under raking light (side light) you'll spot any leftover buffer trails most clearly. Once that check passes, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e follows as the degrease step before sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAbrasive technology: how the NP 03-06 high-gloss finishing polish clears holograms\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA finishing polish works by mechanical micro-abrasion: the finely milled abrasives in the high-gloss polish cut the clear-coat surface at micrometre level, smoothing out the grooves and scratch marks left by earlier polishing stages and creating a surface that's as flat and uniform as possible. Light hitting a flat surface bounces back evenly — that's the physics behind the so-called depth gloss and the mirror reflection you see after a successful finishing polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cut of the NP 03-06 is pitched just right for the final polishing stage: fine enough not to lay down new holograms, but still strong enough to clear out the buffer trails from the preceding medium correction polish completely. That balancing act is typical of finishing polishes — too fine a cut won't fully remove buffer trails, too coarse a cut creates holograms of its own that need another finishing pass to fix. The NP 03-06 carries the \"03-06\" in its name, which marks where it sits in the SONAX polishing range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother upside of finishing-polish technology is what detailers call \"darkening\" — on dark paint (black, dark blue, dark grey) a noticeably deeper colour comes up after the finishing polish, because the surface is so flat and clear that more light gets into the paint and reflects back. The effect is less dramatic on light colours, but still clearly there: the paint looks fresher, livelier and more even than before. On cars with black or dark paint especially, the finishing polish is the most visible step in the whole detail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the NP 03-06 right — pad, machine and technique for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe finishing polish assumes the prep is fully done: dirt, fallout and tar removed (decon step), the paint prepped with a correction polish, and the surface clean and dry. A finishing polish on an unprepped, heavily scratched surface can't clear the fine scratches completely — the step only pays off when the stages before it were done right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad choice: for machine work, finishing foam pads (soft, no cut of their own) carry the polish's fine abrasives evenly onto the surface without adding any cut. Hard foam pads or microfibre pads with their own cut aren't ideal for a pure finishing polish — the NP 03-06 is built for soft finishing pads. For hand work, use a soft, clean applicator — on small areas (headlights, small dent zones) the polish works well by hand too, but on large panels machine work is a must for an even result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTechnique: lay the polish down, spread it at the lowest speed, then run several overlapping passes across the panel at medium speed. The last pass goes at a slightly reduced speed and light pressure — this final pass levels the faint cross-marks the polishing leaves behind. Watch the dry-down: if the polish flashes off too fast (in the sun, on hot paint) it won't work properly — ideally polish in the garage or in the shade. After buffing off with microfibre, check for holograms straight away — any leftover buffer trails show up best under side-on artificial light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the NP 03-06 fits — when a finishing polish is the right step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe NP 03-06 is the final polishing step before any sealant or ceramic coating. You reach for it when there are still fine buffer trails or holograms left after the correction polish that need clearing before you seal. Typically the NP 03-06 is step 3 or 4 in a multi-stage polishing job: after the cutting polish (hard pad + cutting compound) and the correction polish (medium pad + medium polish) comes the finishing polish as the last abrasive step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn cars that don't need heavy correction (nearly new paint, or paint with very fine swirl marks only visible at an angle), the NP 03-06 can also run as the only polishing stage — a so-called \"one-step finish\". Here you pair a lightly cutting pad (combo pad) with the finishing polish to knock back light swirl marks and bring up maximum gloss in one go. That approach saves time, but it isn't enough for deeper scratches and heavier holograms — there a multi-stage process with a proper correction polish is unavoidable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn delicate cars with a thin clear coat (often older cars after several previous-owner polishes, or certain makes like Porsche and some BMW models) the finishing polish is especially valuable, because it gets by with minimal paint removal — the light cut clears only the buffer trails, without taking off more clear coat than needed. Paint-depth readings before the job help judge how many polishing passes still make sense without thinning the clear coat too far.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eNP 03-06 vs. PerfectFinish — which finishing polish for which job?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range has two finishing polishes for different demands. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\"\u003c\/a\u003e sits as the more aggressive finishing polish with a slightly higher cut — it's built especially for use after P2000 sandpaper (hence the \"up to P2000\" tag) and suits situations where a bit more cut is needed after sanding to clear the sanding marks completely. The NP 03-06, by contrast, is the finer finishing polish for the last step after the polishing correction stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn practice: if you're polishing after wet sanding (e.g. after removing a deep dent or a respray), you pick the PerfectFinish as the first polishing step and optionally the NP 03-06 as the final hologram removal. If you've worked a normal detail without sanding using a correction polish, you only need the NP 03-06 for the finish step. For detailers who want both scenarios covered day-to-day, having both polishes on hand makes sense — the PerfectFinish for sanding-heavy work, the NP 03-06 for pure high-gloss finish steps after polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn pad compatibility and machine suitability the two finishing polishes are similar — the call comes down mainly to the cut you want and the prep stage before it. For maximum flexibility in a pro setup we recommend keeping both polishes available, since the exact state of a car often only becomes clear on the lift and under correction lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06 — bottle sizes and value\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in three sizes: 250 ml for beginners and occasional use, 1 litre for regular detailers and pro detailing businesses, and 5 litres for high-throughput operations or for training sessions. The price per millilitre drops noticeably with the bigger bottle — for businesses polishing several cars a week, the 1-litre or 5-litre size is the most economical choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePer application on an average car (saloon or compact) you'll use about 15–30 ml of polish, depending on the number of passes and the pad size. The 1-litre bottle covers around 30–60 full car polishes that way — excellent value for regular use. The 250-ml bottle suits beginners who want to get to know the polish first, or special jobs on small areas (bonnet, roof, single panels after a spot repair).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a complete finish workflow we recommend: NP 03-06 (high-gloss finishing polish) → \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e (degrease\/panel wipe) → \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a ceramic coating. This three-step finishing workflow makes sure the paint glosses to the max after the detail, is fully degreased and stays protected long-term under a quality sealant — the standard for professional detailing results.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53506699362639,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53506660401487,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000","price":38.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53506660499791,"sku":"D1-SNX-2085000","price":95.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699395407,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699428175,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506660434255,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_2","price":76.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506660467023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_3","price":115.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish.png?v=1730477476"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur","title":"PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\" Finish Polish (up to P2000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove sanding marks after P2000 and bring up a deep gloss — SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish do? The \"4\/6\" finish polish pulls out sanding marks up to P2000 grit with no residue, levels the paint after wet-sanding and brings up a mirror-deep gloss — the go-to first polishing step after wet or dry sanding on paint correction and spot repairs.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn pro paint sanding and when you're chasing out deep paint damage, the jump from sandpaper to polish is the step that makes or breaks the job: wet-sanding with P1500 or P2000 takes off orange peel, deep scratches or paint runs, but it leaves the typical sanding haze (the \"holy spirit\" pattern) that has to come out completely before you seal. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro finish polish built for exactly this hand-off: cutty enough to clear P2000 sanding marks completely, fine enough to lay down a glass-clear, hologram-free gloss while it does.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt specifically for use after wet-sanding up to P2000.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cut of the PerfectFinish is dialled to the \"4\/6\" range on the SONAX scale — meaning: strong enough to level the micro-grooves left by P1500–P2000 paper, without throwing down fresh deep holograms that would force another finish step. In a lot of cases the PerfectFinish is the only polishing step you need after wet-sanding to get the surface seal-ready.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMade for machine polishing with rotary and dual-action machines.\u003c\/strong\u003e The PerfectFinish formula is tuned for the machine: even viscosity so it spreads nicely on the pad, enough working time at moderate temperatures, and a flash-off phase that makes the result easy to read. It works with rotary machines (more cut, for heavier sanding marks) as well as dual-action machines (less heat build-up, for that final finishing pass).\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLeaves clearcoat that's seal-ready straight away.\u003c\/strong\u003e Once you've buffed off the PerfectFinish the surface is free of sanding marks, holograms and polishing-oil residue — the clearcoat sits in a state that's ready for a sealant or ceramic coating right after a panel-wipe step. That straight-to-seal readiness is what separates a good finish polish from a mediocre one that leaves fine residue behind after the buff.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The PerfectFinish gives its best with a medium-hard combo pad on the rotary or a lightly abrasive foam pad on the dual-action — depends how heavy the sanding marks are. After sanding, rinse the panel with clean water and let it dry fully before you lay the polish down. Spread it at low speed first, then run several overlapping passes at medium speed. Drop the speed for the last pass to get an even, hologram-free result. After buffing, degrease with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to pull every bit of polishing oil before you seal. On very deep sanding marks (P1000 or coarser) we'd run an intermediate step with a medium-cut correction stage first, then bring in the PerfectFinish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe PerfectFinish abrasive tech — what \"up to P2000\" means in paint sanding\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"up to P2000\" label in the description of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is an important spec: it tells you up to which sandpaper grit the polish can clear the resulting sanding marks completely. P2000 paper has a very fine grit (2000 works out to a mean particle size of about 10 microns) and leaves correspondingly fine sanding marks. P1500 leaves slightly deeper grooves (mean particle size about 13 microns), P1000 deeper still (about 18 microns).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEach of these grits leaves sanding marks with a typical depth and width — and the polish has to be able to level those grooves through its abrasive particles. The PerfectFinish carries abrasives whose size and hardness are dialled so they level P2000 grooves effectively. For deeper grooves (P1000 and coarser) the PerfectFinish would need several passes or simply isn't enough — here you're better off with a cuttier correction stage that brings the grooves down to P2000 level first, then the PerfectFinish. This step principle holds for every polishing and sanding process: each stage works the grooves of the one before it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"4\/6\" rating on the SONAX scale puts the PerfectFinish as a medium-fine finish polish: cuttier than a pure high-gloss finish polish, but finer than typical correction-stage polishes. That spot makes the PerfectFinish unusually versatile: it works both as the only polishing step after fine wet-sanding and as the second-to-last step before a further high-gloss finish polish such as the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e. Which way is better depends on the result you want, the state of the car and the time you've got.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe physics behind the jump from sanding to polishing is blending: every sanding or polishing stage lays down a new, finer pattern of grooves that overlays the pattern of the stage before. When the new pattern is finer than light's refractive-index threshold, the surface reads as optically smooth. The PerfectFinish reworks the P2000 grooves with abrasives so fine that the surface micro-structures left after polishing sit below what the human eye can pick up — so the surface comes off looking glossy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing PerfectFinish right — pad choice and technique for the best result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the finish polish starts with the right pad, and that's what decides the result. For use after wet-sanding (P1500–P2000) reach for combo pads with a touch of their own cut, which back up the PerfectFinish's correction power and let you clear sanding marks in a few passes. For use as a second finish step after a correction stage, softer finish pads are the call — they level the light polishing marks left behind. Pad hardness drives the effective cut directly: a hard pad with a medium-cut polish like the PerfectFinish can land roughly the same overall as a soft pad with a more aggressive polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMachine choice: the rotary gives you more cut on sanding marks than the dual-action and is the faster option on heavy P1500 marks. The dual-action keeps heat down and is the better call on delicate paint or as a finishing step to minimise holograms. A lot of pros run the PerfectFinish as a combo: first rounds on the rotary at medium speed to clear the sanding marks, last pass on the dual-action at low speed for that hologram-free deep gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChecking the result: read your polishing work under correction light (an LED panel light or daylight at a low angle). Leftover sanding marks show up under this light as parallel line patterns, holograms as random swirl patterns. If P2000 marks are still showing after several passes with the PerfectFinish, you've either got too little pad pressure, too low a speed or the wrong pad — a common slip-up is switching to too soft a pad too early, one that doesn't level the marks enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the PerfectFinish earns its keep — paint correction, spot repair and respray\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is hard to do without across several pro jobs. Paint residue and runs after a respray: fresh paint sometimes throws runs, sags and orange-peel that you take off mechanically by sanding and polishing. Wet-sanding with P2000 levels the surface, and the PerfectFinish brings the gloss to its finished level — a standard workflow in body and paint shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDeep single scratches and stone-chip follow-up: after a spot repair (sanding out and partial respray) you have to buff the repaired patch and bring it up to the gloss level of the surrounding panel. The PerfectFinish is the right tool for that transition zone: it clears the spot-repair sanding marks and lays down a gloss that blends seamlessly into the surrounding paint. On small repair patches you can also work the PerfectFinish by hand with an applicator when the repair spot is too small for the machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGeneral paint correction on badly knocked-about cars: on cars with deep swirl marks, heavy holograms or mechanical damage you need a multi-stage process — a coarse correction stage for the main work, then the PerfectFinish for the hand-off to deep gloss. In this context the PerfectFinish replaces the separate sanding-and-finish combo once the previous stage has already brought things to P1500–P2000 level. For this broad use the 5-litre size is especially handy for shops with high polishing volume.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePerfectFinish vs. NP 03-06 — which finish polish for which job\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common question when buying a finish polish from the SONAX PROFILINE range: when PerfectFinish, when \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e? The answer is in the prep before it: the PerfectFinish \"4\/6\" is built for situations where the surface was sanded before polishing (P1500–P2000 wet-sanding) and heavier sanding marks are sitting there. The NP 03-06, on the other hand, is the finer finish polish for the last step after a correction polish — when there are no sanding marks, just light polishing marks and holograms from the previous polishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePut plainly: if a car comes in for polishing after a respray or after wet-sanding, the PerfectFinish is the first polishing step. If a car comes in for finishing after a normal cutty correction stage (polishing with no prior sanding), the NP 03-06 is the right step. For detailers who want to cover both scenarios we'd say keep both polishes on hand — the car and its prep decide which one comes out. In a two-stage combo (PerfectFinish after sanding, then NP 03-06 as the last finish) you can pull a standout result on paint that needs maximum gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners who only want to buy one finish polish: the NP 03-06 is the safer all-rounder for cars with no prior sanding. The PerfectFinish is a must on cars with prior wet-sanding — on cars with no sanding marks you can run it too, but it takes more passes than the NP 03-06 to land a hologram-free result. So the PerfectFinish earns its place on sanding-mark know-how, not on pure gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish — sizes and getting your money's worth\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1 litre and 5 litre, plus 2-pack and 3-pack sets. The 250 ml size suits beginners and occasional users, and works for sizing up the polish before a bigger order. The 1 litre is the most economical standard size for regular detailers and smaller prep shops — a litre runs to about 30–50 full car polishes. The 5 litre is aimed at body shops, paint shops and detailing shops with high polishing volume that use the polish daily and need the lowest price per litre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that run wet-sanding as a regular part of the service (paint correction, respray buffing, spot repair), the PerfectFinish is a must-have part of the polishing kit. Paired with the NP 03-06 for the final high-gloss finish, the Prepare for the panel-wipe step and a sealant, the PerfectFinish covers the full post-sanding workflow. That workflow is a pro standard in body shops and high-end detailing shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line, the SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish is the product for every situation where you need to clear sanding marks up to P2000 and bring up a deep gloss. If you regularly run wet-sand prep jobs, buff out spot repairs or bring resprays up to gloss, you need the PerfectFinish as a fixed part of your kit — it closes the gap between sandpaper and high-gloss finish polish precisely and reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53506852782415,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410","price":20.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53506852815183,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000","price":57.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53506852847951,"sku":"D1-SNX-2245000","price":177.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506852880719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410_2","price":40.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506852913487,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410_3","price":61.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506852946255,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000_2","price":114.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506852979023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000_3","price":172.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur.png?v=1730639593"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur","title":"PROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\" One-Step Polish (up to P1500)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove sanding marks and get high gloss in one step with SONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can SONAX Cut+Finish do? A one-step polish with maximum cut (5\/5) and maximum gloss (5\/5) — it pulls out sanding marks up to P1500 and lays down a high-gloss finish in a single pass, silicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional paint correction there's one situation that keeps coming back: the paint has been wet-sanded — whether to fix a defect, after a spot-repair respray, or to knock down orange peel — and now the sanding marks have to go. Normally that means two steps: a cutting compound to take down the marks, then a finishing polish for the gloss. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e rolls both steps into one product. With a cut rating of 5\/5 and a gloss rating of 5\/5, it removes sanding marks from paper up to P1500 grit and leaves a high-gloss, hologram-free surface in a single pass. For workshops and detailers who need to get from sanding to a sale-ready result fast, that's a serious time-saver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut at maximum gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e A 5\/5 for cut and a 5\/5 for finish is unique in the SONAX PROFILINE range — no other product in the line hits the top mark in both categories. The special abrasive blend breaks down progressively as you polish: it starts aggressive to take down the sanding marks, then ends with a fine break-down that builds the gloss. That behaviour is exactly why a single pass does the job where other products need two separate steps.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and workshop-ready.\u003c\/strong\u003e In a bodyshop, being silicone-free isn't optional, it's mandatory. Silicone-bearing polishes can cause craters and fish-eyes on a respray — a problem that only shows up after the paint goes on and then writes off the whole job. So Cut+Finish is deliberately formulated silicone-free and can be used right next to the spray booth with no contamination risk.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow-dust working with a long open time.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polish stays wet and workable through the whole pass without dusting or drying out. That long open time gives you the freedom to extend the pass when the paint calls for it — with no worry about polish dust settling into shut-lines and trim gaps. The wipe-off afterwards comes away in one go, no re-cleaning needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run Cut+Finish on a rotary with a medium-hard to hard foam pad (orange or white in the SONAX colour system). Start at 1200 to 1500 rpm and step up gradually to a maximum of 1800 rpm if you need it. Drop three or four pea-sized dots onto the pad, spread the polish at low speed and work in rows with about 50 percent overlap. Polish each section until the polish goes clear — that's the moment the abrasives have fully broken down and the gloss comes up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut 5\/5 and gloss 5\/5 — how Cut+Finish pulls off both in one step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe secret of \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is in the abrasive technology: the abrasive particles in the formula are built to break down progressively under pressure and heat. At the start of the pass the particles are big enough to take down the coarse sanding marks from P1500 paper — a job normally reserved for a dedicated cutting compound. As the pass goes on, the particles break into finer and finer fragments, until they're small enough to polish the surface to a high gloss without leaving fresh micro-scratches behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat progressive break-down is the reason the polish needs a full pass to show what it can do. Stop too early — say after thirty seconds instead of two minutes per section — and you stay stuck in the cutting stage: you get the coarse marks out, but no gloss. The pass is only done once the polish goes clear on the paint and the typical shine shows up. Reading that point takes a little experience, but after the first two or three panels you'll have the feel for it down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne common misconception: some users think a 5\/5 polish is more aggressive than a pure cutting compound like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX CutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/a\u003e. It's the other way around — CutMax has more cut at 6\/4 and can take down coarser defects, such as sanding marks from P1000 paper. Cut+Finish starts at P1500 and reaches the same gloss result you'd otherwise only get with an extra finishing step. If you need to sand coarser, you need CutMax as the first step — Cut+Finish is then the fast one-step solution for lighter to medium sanding work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a one-step polish properly — machine type, pad choice and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is built primarily for rotary polishers. Here's why: a rotary, with its pure rotating action, builds more heat and friction than a dual-action machine — exactly the energy the progressive abrasive break-down needs to run the full spectrum from cut to high gloss. It works on a dual-action machine too, just with reduced cut: the eccentric action builds less heat, so the particles break down slower and the pass takes longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epad choice\u003c\/strong\u003e drives the result more than anything. On a hard pad (white or orange) Cut+Finish gives you its full cut — ideal for working a panel after wet-sanding. On a medium-hard pad the cut is more moderate, enough for refreshing weathered paint without sanding first. On a soft finishing pad the polish loses too much cut and no longer reaches the performance it was built for — for pure finish polishing there are better-suited products like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish (4\/6)\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the application: drop three or four pea-sized dots of polish onto the pad, spread them at low speed over the panel and then bring it up to working speed. Work in rows with about fifty percent overlap across the whole section until the polish goes clear. A typical section — say half a bonnet — takes two to three minutes on a rotary. Wipe the polish residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED lamp: if there are still sanding marks visible, repeat the pass with a bit more pressure or a higher speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you polish large areas — bonnet, roof, side panels — getting the pressure right is the key. Hold the machine so the pad sits evenly on the surface and let the weight of the machine do the work. Extra pressure from above does raise the cut, but it also builds more heat and can cause holograms on sensitive paint — exactly what Cut+Finish is meant to avoid. If you still see defects after one pass, a second pass at the same pressure beats a single pass with too much pressure.\n\nAfter polishing, it's worth degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to strip the last of the polish residue. Under the Prepare control spray the real result shows up — without polishing oils and fillers that can visually mask defects. That step matters especially if a ceramic coating or paint protection film is going on afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRemoving sanding marks after wet-sanding — the ideal jobs for Cut+Finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the follow-up after wet-sanding with P1200 to P1500 paper. Day-to-day you'll run into that in a few scenarios:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003espot-repair follow-up\u003c\/strong\u003e in the bodyshop, blend-ins and touch-up areas get wet-sanded first to level the paint and knock down orange peel. Cut+Finish takes the sanding marks out in one pass and brings the repaired area up to the gloss level of the surrounding original paint — without a second polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003enew-car prep\u003c\/strong\u003e, plenty of vehicles come from the factory with light orange peel and transport scratches. A careful wet-sand with P1500 levels the surface, and Cut+Finish brings the gloss back. Here the silicone-free formula plays an important role: should the new car need a respray inside the warranty period, the silicone-free polish causes no problems with the repaint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003eclassic-car restoration\u003c\/strong\u003e or the recovery of badly weathered paint, Cut+Finish is enough on its own in many cases, as long as the weathering doesn't run too deep. On original stove-baked paint, which is often softer than modern water-based finishes, Cut+Finish offers enough cut to take down the oxidised layer and enough finish to bring the gloss underneath back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother scenario that comes up a lot day-to-day: \u003cstrong\u003escratch removal without sanding first.\u003c\/strong\u003e Not every scratch needs the sandpaper. Surface scratches that sit only in the clearcoat and disappear when the surface is wet can be polished out directly with Cut+Finish. The 5\/5 cut is enough to take down the damaged clearcoat layer far enough for the scratch to disappear — and the 5\/5 gloss makes sure the spot doesn't end up looking duller than the surrounding paint afterwards. For this job a medium-hard pad beats the hard pad, so you keep the cut more controlled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere Cut+Finish hits its limits: on sanding marks from P1000 and coarser it doesn't have the cut to take them out fully in one pass. Here CutMax (6\/4) is the better choice as a first step, followed by a finish with PerfectFinish or the NP 03-06. Cut+Finish is no replacement for a dedicated cutting compound on heavy defect removal — it's the one-step solution for the P1200 to P1500 range, where it plays its strength in full. On extremely hard ceramic clearcoats too, like the ones some German premium makers use, Cut+Finish can need more passes than on softer Japanese or Korean paint systems — the abrasives break down slower on the hard substrate, and the polishing process takes correspondingly longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne-step polish comparison — Cut+Finish vs. CutMax vs. PerfectFinish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range, Cut+Finish, CutMax and PerfectFinish form a logical gradient that covers different needs:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pure cutting compound — maximum cut (6\/5), moderate gloss (4\/5). It comes out when coarse defects like P1000 sanding marks, deep scratches or heavy weathering have to be taken down. After CutMax a finishing step is nearly always needed, because the gloss result alone isn't enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePerfectFinish (4\/6)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the counterpart: moderate cut (4\/5), maximum gloss (6\/5). It's built for the finishing step after a cutting compound and creates the last bit of high gloss needed for concours results and showroom quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits right in the middle and is the all-rounder: it manages the cut of a medium cutting compound and the gloss of a good finishing polish in a single pass. The upside is obvious — time saved, fewer pad changes, less polish residue. The downside: if you have to push to the extremes — heaviest defect removal or that absolute last bit of high gloss — you're better served by the two-step approach of CutMax and PerfectFinish. For an estimated seventy percent of the day-to-day polishing work in workshop and detailing, Cut+Finish is plenty as the only polish you need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst polishes from other makers, Cut+Finish positions itself as the workshop-focused solution: the silicone-free formula, the low-dust working and the long open time are properties that make the difference in daily workshop use. Hobby detailers who polish once a year notice these upsides less — for them what counts above all is the end result. In a workshop polishing ten to fifteen vehicles a week, though, these upsides add up to a tangible efficiency gain: less cleanup thanks to no dust, no contamination risk thanks to being silicone-free, less wasted product thanks to the controlled consistency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a one-step polish — bottle sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. For getting started or the occasional job on your own car, the 250 ml bottle is enough — that polishes a whole vehicle and leaves you a reserve for touch-ups. For workshops and professional detailers polishing every day, the 1000 ml bottle is the more economical pick: the price per litre drops noticeably and you reorder less often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the optimal workflow we recommend the combination: Cut+Finish as the main polish, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for result checking and degreasing, and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e as the final sealant. This trio covers the whole process from defect correction to long-term protection — in three steps instead of the five or six a multi-stage process with separate cutting and finishing polishes would need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith several vehicles a day a further upside of Cut+Finish shows up: you only need one product and one set of pads, instead of switching between cutting and finishing polish. That cuts not just the setup time but also the risk of mix-ups — in a workshop where several people polish, a simple one-product system is less error-prone than a three-stage process with different polishes and pad combinations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical note on storage: Cut+Finish can separate slightly when it stands for a while — the abrasives settle at the bottom. Shake the bottle well before every use until the consistency is evenly creamy. Store the product frost-free and sealed, and it keeps its full performance over the whole shelf life. Frozen polish loses its homogeneous consistency and won't work evenly anymore even after it thaws.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53519485403471,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410","price":21.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53519485436239,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000","price":63.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53519485501775,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410_2","price":42.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53519485534543,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410_3","price":64.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519485567311,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000_2","price":126.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519485600079,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000_3","price":190.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur.png?v=1730642087"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE UltimateCut \"6+\/3\" Cutting Compound (up to P1000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClearing deep scratches and P1000 sanding marks the professional way — SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut do? The strongest cutting compound in the PROFILINE polish range takes out deep scratches, heavy swirl marks and sanding marks down to P1000 grit — for serious paint correction before you finish-polish.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDeep isolated scratches, swirl marks all over the panel after years of neglect, paint runs after a respray or sanding marks from P800–P1000 paper: these are too much for a normal correction polish. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e is the answer to those extremes: the strongest cutting polish in the PROFILINE range, rated „6+\/3\" — maximum abrasiveness for maximum correction, built for professional work on badly damaged paint where milder products give up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cutting power for the heaviest paint correction.\u003c\/strong\u003e Rated „6+\/3\", the UltimateCut is the most abrasive product in the SONAX PROFILINE polish line. The coarse abrasive particles can level P1000 sanding marks completely in a few machine passes — a job that milder polishes like the PerfectFinish or the OS polishes would need far more passes for, or fail at entirely. That cutting power brings your working time on badly damaged paint right down.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDesigned for rotary polishers and fast dual-action polishers.\u003c\/strong\u003e The UltimateCut is built for heavy-duty machine work — with rotary polishers (DA polisher) and fast dual-action polishers with a big throw. By hand it's barely effective at this cut level; you need the mechanical energy of the machine to fully activate the coarse abrasives and get an even correction. Heavy-duty work is what it's for.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSlots into the multi-stage PROFILINE polishing process.\u003c\/strong\u003e The UltimateCut is designed as step one in a multi-stage polishing process: after the UltimateCut step (maximum correction) you typically go to a medium correction stage (e.g. FS 05-04) and then a finishing stage (PerfectFinish or NP 03-06). That staged process makes sure any polishing marks left after the most aggressive step are fully removed by the following stages before you seal the surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Only reach for the UltimateCut where the damage really calls for it — too much cut on thin paint pulls off more material than you need and puts the clear coat at risk. Take paint thickness readings before you start, so you've got enough material for the full multi-stage job. Start with a hard, abrasive pad (wool pad or hard foam) on the rotary at medium speed (3–4). After the UltimateCut step, check the panel for leftover polishing marks and carry on with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e as the next stage. For the final high-gloss finish, follow up with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e. Swap the pad between stages — you don't want abrasives from different stages mixing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUltimateCut abrasive tech — what \"6+\/3\" and \"up to P1000\" mean in the polishing process\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe „6+\/3\" and „up to P1000\" labels in the spec sheet of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e tell you a lot about where it sits and what it's for. „6+\/3\" describes its abrasive position in the SONAX polish hierarchy: higher numbers mean more aggressive cut. With „6+\/3\" the UltimateCut sits at the top end of that scale — the first three digits describe the cutting power in use, and the format is a specific Sonax in-house classification method.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe „up to P1000\" figure is the spec that matters most day to day: it tells you the UltimateCut can fully level the sanding marks left by P1000 paper. P1000 is a medium-coarse grit (particle size about 18 microns) that's typically the first grit you reach for when wet-sanding out paint runs, orange peel after a respray or deep scratches. Marks that deep are too much for fine correction polishes (NP 03-06, PerfectFinish) — they need the cut of the UltimateCut to bring them down to a level the following stages can work with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasives in the UltimateCut have a controlled particle size that delivers the heavy correction without cutting uncontrolled deep scratches of its own. Modern compounds often use abrasives that break down into smaller particles as you work them — this „diminishing abrasive\" effect means the polish is very aggressive at the start (coarse particles) and gets milder towards the end of the pass (broken-down, smaller particles). That reduces the depth of the polishing marks left behind and makes the next stage easier. The UltimateCut formula uses that principle to leave a surface after the correction step that you can take on with a medium-cut polish or straight to the PerfectFinish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe lubrication of the UltimateCut formula plays a decisive supporting role: a cutting compound doesn't just have to be abrasive, it has to feed the pad enough lube so the machine's mechanical energy turns into abrasion under control instead of heat. Dry formulas cut well for a moment but overheat fast, and with too little lube they can leave dry-buff marks on the paint. The UltimateCut is balanced between cut and lubrication so it holds up over long passes at full tilt. On big vehicles (SUVs, vans, heavy saloons) that balance matters even more, because the whole job takes considerably longer than on a compact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing to watch with high-cut compounds like the UltimateCut is heat input: heavy cut under machine work builds serious heat where the pad meets the paint. Overheated paint can burn (orange-brown discolouration), soften, or crack from thermal stress. So: rotary at a moderate speed, enough product on the pad (lubrication keeps the heat down), and check the panel temperature regularly between passes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the UltimateCut properly — machine, pad and the multi-stage process\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorking with a cutting compound starts with the machine: for maximum cut on deep scratches and P1000 sanding marks the rotary polisher (single action, SA) is first choice — it gives you more torque and more material removal than a dual-action. If you only have a DA, go for a hard foam pad or a hybrid wool pad and several intensive passes — the result is fine, just slower than with the rotary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad choice: the UltimateCut wants hard or medium-hard abrasive pads (wool pads, hybrid wool pads or hard foam). Soft finishing pads bring the abrasive performance right down and shouldn't be used with the UltimateCut. Clean the pad of old polish residue with a pad washer or a towel before you start — particles from a previous stage still sitting in the pad can put scratches in during the UltimateCut step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOrder of work: spread a small amount of UltimateCut over the pad, spread it at low speed, then run intensive overlapping passes across the panel at medium to high speed. The polish dries fairly quickly — at room temperature and normal humidity you work section by section. After the UltimateCut step: wipe the residue off completely with a microfibre towel and check the surface under correction light for leftover sanding marks. If P1000 traces are still showing, repeat the UltimateCut step. If not, move on to the next polishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the UltimateCut earns its keep — when you need maximum correction\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e comes out when milder polishes are out of their depth. Wet-sanding after a respray: after paint work in a workshop or body shop, fresh paint often shows orange peel, runs or inclusions. Those get levelled mechanically by wet-sanding with P800–P1000. The deep sanding marks that leaves are the classic job for the UltimateCut as the first polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBadly damaged older paint: cars that haven't been polished in years, showing heavy swirl marks across the panels, deep individual scratches from the wash bay or oxidation, need maximum correction to get back to a presentable level of gloss. The UltimateCut is the powerful first step there, bringing the damage down to a level that correction polishes can refine further. On badly damaged paint you often need the full combination of UltimateCut + FS 05-04 + PerfectFinish + NP 03-06.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpot repairs and blending areas: with spot resprays the repair has to be polished out and brought up to the gloss level of the surrounding paint. Depending on the grit of the paper used, the UltimateCut is needed as the first polishing step. In transition and blending areas you go gentler, so you don't take too much material off the surrounding paint that's already in good shape — here you keep the UltimateCut strictly on the repair itself, not on the blend.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCars with very thick clear coats (factory paint from the early 2000s or certain classic car resprays) will take repeated intensive work with the UltimateCut without getting into risky paint thickness territory. Modern cars with thinner clear coats (especially Asian brands and a few German manufacturers with special paints) need the abrasive energy dosed more carefully — one or two machine passes, then a thickness reading before you go on. That controlled approach isn't over-caution, it's professional standard for paint correction that lasts and doesn't compromise the car for future work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe UltimateCut in the polishing pyramid — position and combination strategies\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE polish line covers a full abrasive hierarchy for every level of damage. At the top of the cut scale sits the \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e as the cutting compound, followed by the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/a\u003e as the medium-cut correction stage. The finishing stages are the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e (after wet-sanding) and the NP 03-06 (finest high-gloss finish). That polishing pyramid lets you work any level of damage up in stages to a flawless gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers and reconditioning outfits running the full PROFILINE polish system, the decision logic is clear: scratch depth decides where you enter the pyramid. Damage deeper than P1000 → UltimateCut to start. Damage between P1500 and P2000 → PerfectFinish to start. Fine swirl marks only → NP 03-06 or OS 02-06 as a single stage. Working systematically by level of damage is professional standard: it saves time and stops you over-polishing the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with third-party cutting compounds, the UltimateCut has the advantage of system compatibility as a PROFILINE product: it's matched to the PROFILINE stages that follow and leaves a surface after the correction step that those products can take on ideally. You can mix cutting compounds from other makers with PROFILINE finishing polishes, but then the particle sizes aren't guaranteed to line up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut — sizes and what to pick\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1 litre and 5 litre, plus 2-packs and 3-packs. The 250 ml bottle suits beginners and occasional users, the 1 litre is for regular professional work, and the 5 litre is for body shops and high-throughput polishing operations. A full paint correction on one car takes about 20–50 ml of UltimateCut depending on paint condition and vehicle size — so a 1 litre bottle covers 20–50 full jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe UltimateCut belongs in the kit of every body shop and every detailer who offers paint correction after wet-sanding or heavy swirl removal as a service. It's not an everyday product for routine maintenance details, it's the specialist tool for the cases where you genuinely need maximum correction. The money you put into the UltimateCut comes back in far shorter working times on difficult paint — which feeds straight into how profitable your paint correction work is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn short, the SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut is the strongest correction tool in the PROFILINE polish range for every situation where milder polishes don't cut it. If you regularly polish out resprays, work on after P1000 wet-sanding or correct badly damaged older paint, the UltimateCut gives you the power and efficiency those demanding jobs need.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53519971909967,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410","price":23.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53519971942735,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000","price":68.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53519971975503,"sku":"D1-SNX-2395000","price":223.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53519972008271,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410_2","price":46.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53519972041039,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410_3","price":70.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519972073807,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000_2","price":136.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519972106575,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000_3","price":205.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur.png?v=1730646033"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur","title":"PROFILINE EX \"04-06\" High-Gloss Polish (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHologram-free high-gloss finish with the SONAX EX 04-06 polish for dual-action machines\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX EX 04-06 do? A finishing polish with cut level 4 and gloss level 6 — built specifically for dual-action machines, it pulls out light paint defects and lays down a hologram-free high-gloss finish in a single pass, silicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDual-action machines are the go-to for a lot of detailers because they're safer to handle than rotaries — less heat build-up, less risk of holograms, less chance of burning through the clear coat. The catch: not every polish is built for the dual-action motion. Plenty of polishes that work brilliantly on the rotary only deliver a fraction of their power on a DA, because the lower heat slows the abrasive breakdown. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e was developed specifically for this machine type: its abrasive blend breaks down reliably even at the lower friction energy of a dual-action machine, and with a cut of 4\/5 and a gloss of 6\/5 it gets you a result on the DA that's almost identical to a two-step process of cutting and finishing polish on the rotary. If you work with a dual-action machine and want to correct light to medium paint defects, the EX 04-06 is the obvious pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for the dual-action motion.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formulation of the EX 04-06 is tuned to the specific kinematics of dual-action machines. The abrasive particles break down at lower temperature and lower pressure than with classic rotary polishes — meaning you get the full power on the DA without having to lean in. That behaviour makes the EX 04-06 especially beginner-friendly: even without years of polishing experience, moderate pressure and a mid-range speed get you a professional result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The gloss level of 6\/5 — the top mark in the SONAX system — means the polish leaves a finish that's free of holograms, swirls and buffer marks. On dark paint, where every defect shows up straight away, this is the point that matters. The EX 04-06 produces a result on black or dark-blue paint that stays flawless even under direct sunlight and LED inspection light.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and bodyshop-safe.\u003c\/strong\u003e Like all SONAX PROFILINE polishes, the EX 04-06 is silicone-free. In bodyshops that polish and paint side by side, that's a must — silicone residue on neighbouring vehicles or shop surfaces can cause craters during a respray. Being silicone-free also makes the EX 04-06 a first choice for prep ahead of a ceramic coating, where an absolutely silicone-free surface gives the best bonding.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the EX 04-06 with a medium foam pad (orange in the SONAX colour system) at speed 4 to 5 on the dual-action machine. Drop three pea-sized dabs onto the pad, spread them at low speed and then work with moderate pressure in slow, overlapping passes. The key to a perfect result: slow machine movement. Move the machine about two to three centimetres per second across the surface — noticeably slower than most beginners do it by instinct. That's the only way the abrasives get enough contact time to fully cut out the defects and bring up the high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFinishing polish for dual-action machines — why the EX range is formulated differently from rotary polishes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e belongs to the EX range, which SONAX developed specifically for dual-action machines. The technical background: a dual-action machine moves the pad on a circular orbit with a simultaneous rotation — this double motion generates less friction energy per unit of area than the pure rotation of a rotary machine. Polishes built for the rotary need that higher energy to break their abrasives down fully. On a dual-action machine they only break down partway — the result is coarse leftover particles that leave micro-marring and holograms instead of bringing up gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX range solves this with an adapted particle size and binder matrix. The abrasives are smaller and break down at lower energy input — perfect for the dual-action motion. The flip side: on a rotary the abrasive breaks down too fast, and the polish loses its cut before the defects are fully removed. So the EX 04-06 is no replacement for rotary polishes like the CutMax or Cut+Finish — it's their counterpart for a different class of machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day, the difference shows up most on hard European clear coats, which are tougher to work with the dual-action machine than soft Japanese paints. On these clears the EX 04-06 gives enough working time and cut to keep performing consistently even after several polishing passes — something cheaper DA polishes often can't manage, because their formulation is spent after the first pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne practical angle: plenty of detailers own both a dual-action and a rotary machine and switch depending on the panel. On big, flat areas like the bonnet and roof the rotary is more efficient, while on edges, body lines and curved sections the dual-action machine gives you more safety margin. In that mixed workflow the EX 04-06 is the finishing product for all the dual-action sections — while a polish like the Cut+Finish or PerfectFinish handles the rotary sections. If you want to stick with a single machine and prefer the dual-action, the EX range gives you a complete system that asks for no compromise on performance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use a dual-action polish properly — speed, pressure and machine movement\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e on the dual-action machine follows a clear scheme: a medium to soft polishing pad, a mid-range speed (step 4 to 5 on most machines), moderate pressure and slow machine movement. That combination is the key to a hologram-free result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrop three pea-sized dabs of polish onto the pad and spread them at the lowest speed across the panel. Then step up to working speed and polish in slow, overlapping passes across the whole section. Slow here means: two to three centimetres per second. Most beginners move the machine too fast — the pad glides over the surface without enough time to cut the defects out. A slower movement increases the contact time per unit of area and uses the abrasive fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epressure\u003c\/strong\u003e should be moderate — just enough that the pad sits evenly on the surface. Unlike the rotary, where more pressure means more cut, the dual-action machine reacts to excess pressure in reverse: the dual-action motion gets choked, the pad spins slower, and the cut drops instead of climbing. If you notice the machine bogging down under pressure, you're leaning in too hard — back off and let the machine do the work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake: too much polish on the pad. Three pea-sized dabs are enough for a section of about fifty by fifty centimetres — more product dilutes the cut and stretches the working time without improving the result. If the polish is still sitting milky-thick on the surface after the pass, you've either laid on too much or moved the machine too fast. Cut the amount on the next section and move the machine slower — the result picks up straight away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn temperature: the dual-action machine generates less heat than a rotary, but on dark paint in summer sun the surface temperature can still get problematic. Work in a shaded spot or garage and check the temperature now and then with the back of your hand. Ideal ambient temperatures are between fifteen and twenty-five degrees Celsius at moderate humidity, to keep working conditions optimal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the polishing pass, wipe the residue off with a clean, soft microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED inspection lamp. On dark paint it's worth an extra check under direct sunlight — some holograms and swirls only show up under natural light, because the LED lamp hits at a different angle. Once you're happy with the result, comes the degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — only then do you see the actual result without polishing oils.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting light to medium paint defects — the ideal use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't built for heavy defect correction — for that there's the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut\"\u003eEX 05-05 with cut 5\/5\u003c\/a\u003e. The strength of the EX 04-06 sits in a different area: correcting light to medium defects in a single pass while producing the best possible finish at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common use case is the \u003cstrong\u003esingle-stage polish on near-new paint\u003c\/strong\u003e. Vehicles one to three years old typically show wash marring, light swirls and a general dullness in the clear coat. The EX 04-06 removes these surface defects in one pass and leaves a high gloss that sits above factory-new level. For detailers who regularly work on lease returns or young used cars, that's the typical job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother scenario: \u003cstrong\u003efinishing after a cutting stage\u003c\/strong\u003e. When the paint has first been worked with a cutting polish (the EX 05-05, say, or the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax\u003c\/a\u003e), the EX 04-06 removes the leftover micro-marring and holograms in the second step and brings the paint to a high gloss. This two-step process — cutting polish plus finishing polish — is the gold standard in professional paint correction and gets you the best results on demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX 04-06 is also ideal for \u003cstrong\u003eprep ahead of a coating\u003c\/strong\u003e. Before a ceramic coating or paint protection film goes on, the paint has to be in the best possible condition — any defect locked in under the coating stays visible for its entire service life. The EX 04-06 gives you exactly the surface a coating needs: defect-free, hologram-free and free of silicone residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne scenario that often gets underrated: \u003cstrong\u003eworking on vehicles with part-wrapped sections\u003c\/strong\u003e. When a vehicle has both painted and wrapped panels, the polish must not get onto the film — polishing residue can settle into the film texture and is hard to get out of there. The controlled way the dual-action machine works, combined with the EX 04-06, minimises the risk of splatter and lets you work precisely right up to the film edge. For these situations the dual-action machine clearly beats the rotary, because it slings off less product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDual-action polish comparison — EX 04-06 vs. EX 05-05 vs. NP 03-06\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range offers three finishing polishes to choose from, differing in cut and gloss:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e is the more aggressive sibling: cut 5\/5, gloss 5\/5. It comes in when the defects are too deep for the EX 04-06 — things like P1500 sanding marks, heavier weathering or scratches that go beyond the typical wash marring. The gloss level of 5\/5 is good, but not at the level of the EX 04-06 — for the highest finishing standards, a pass with the EX 04-06 follows the EX 05-05.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the gentlest option: cut 3\/5, gloss 6\/5. It's meant for paint that barely shows any defects and just needs that final polishing touch — after a thorough cutting stage, say, or on new cars that only need a light refresh. The lower cut also makes it the safest pick on extremely thin clear coats or historic paint, where every bit of material removal should be kept to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the all-rounder between these extremes: enough cut for typical everyday defects, maximum gloss for a professional finish. For most single-stage polishes on the dual-action machine it's the best choice — versatile enough for day-to-day work, strong enough on the finishing side for demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the EX 04-06 — bottle sizes and workflow recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. The 250 ml bottle is enough for several complete vehicle polishes — product use on the dual-action machine is moderate, because the polish works efficiently and needs few reloads. The 1000 ml bottle is the standard size for shops and keen private users who polish regularly. With the value combo you save on top of buying single — especially for detailers who run the EX 04-06 as their standard finishing polish, the stock pack pays off fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the optimal workflow on the dual-action machine we recommend: on light defects, the EX 04-06 as a single-step solution on a medium pad. On medium defects, first the EX 05-05 on a hard pad, then the EX 04-06 on a soft pad for the finish. After that, degrease with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e and, if needed, seal with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003ePolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a CeramicCoating of your choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA note on storage: the EX 04-06 tends to separate slightly when left standing for a while. Shake the bottle thoroughly before every use, until the consistency is evenly creamy. Store the product frost-free and sealed — frozen polish loses its abrasive structure and won't go on evenly after that, and should be thrown away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners stuck between the EX 04-06 and a rotary polish, the recommendation is clear: if you've got no machine-polishing experience yet, start with the dual-action machine and the EX 04-06. The combination is far more forgiving than a rotary with an aggressive cutting polish. You can learn the technique calmly, without fear of burn-throughs or holograms. The result might not quite reach what an experienced polisher gets on the rotary — but it'll be solid, safe and more than enough for the vast majority of needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520265773391,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520265806159,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000","price":37.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265871695,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265904463,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520265937231,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_2","price":74.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520265969999,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_3","price":112.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur.png?v=1730648016"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut","title":"PROFILINE EX \"05-05\" Cutting Compound (Heavy-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches on the dual-action polisher with the SONAX EX 05-05 cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX EX 05-05 do? A heavy-cut cutting compound for dual-action polishers with a cut rating of 5\/5 and a gloss rating of 5\/5 — it removes deep scratches, sanding marks up to P1500 and heavy weathering, and with the HybridwollPad it gets you results on a rotary level.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a long time, dual-action polishers were seen as the safe but weak tool — fine for finishing work, but no good for serious defect correction. Deep scratches, sanding marks and heavy weathering were the domain of the rotary, because only it built enough friction energy for the material removal you need. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e breaks with that limitation. Paired with a HybridwollPad, this cutting compound gets you results on the dual-action that used to be reserved for the rotary: sanding marks up to P1500 disappear in a single pass, deep scratches and etching are pulled out reliably, and the 5\/5 gloss rating leaves a finish that often needs no extra polishing step. For detailers who want to — or have to — work the dual-action only, because the rotary is too risky on certain paints, the EX 05-05 is the cutting compound of choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHeavy-cut on the dual-action.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a cut rating of 5\/5, the EX 05-05 is the most aggressive polish in the SONAX EX line-up. Its abrasive blend is built so it still generates enough cut even at the lower friction energy of dual-action motion, enough to remove deep scratches and sanding marks up to P1500. Paired with the HybridwollPad — a pad that combines foam and lambswool fibres — cutting power climbs noticeably again, because the wool fibres add friction that pure foam pads simply can't deliver.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh gloss at the same time.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 5\/5 gloss rating shows the EX 05-05 doesn't just cut, it polishes too. The abrasives break down progressively over the polishing pass — from coarse to fine — and leave a surface that on many paints is already the end result you wanted. When the finish demands the very best, a short pass with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/a\u003e follows, but for everyday needs the EX 05-05 often does the job as a one-step solution.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula is free of silicones and, thanks to its optimised consistency, works almost dust-free. In paint shops the silicone-free build eliminates the contamination risk, and the low-dust working saves time on the clean-up. Especially with heavy defect correction that takes several passes and a lot of polishing work, the low-dust formula makes a real difference in comfort and in how clean your work area stays.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For maximum cut on the dual-action, pair the EX 05-05 with the SONAX HybridwollPad and work at speed 5 to 6 (depending on the machine). Apply moderate pressure and guide the machine across the surface at two to three centimetres per second — clearly slower than when you're finish-polishing. The trick: let the machine do the work and use the weight of the tool as your natural down-pressure. Don't force the machine into the surface — that stalls the dual-action motion and reduces the cut instead of raising it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound for the dual-action — how the EX 05-05 gets rotary results on a DA\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe key to the performance of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e lies in the match between abrasive and pad. The abrasive particles are sized to work best at the specific friction energy of a dual-action polisher: big enough for effective cut, small enough for controlled particle break-down. On a rotary these particles would break too fast and lose their cutting power — so the EX 05-05 isn't a universal polish, it's a specialist for the dual-action motion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridwollPad amplifies this effect: the lambswool fibres create extra micro-friction on the surface that boosts material removal, while the foam core keeps the heat in check. The result: a cut on the dual-action that gets close to the level of a rotary with a medium-hard foam pad — without the rotary's risks (holograms, hot spots, burning through on edges).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX 05-05 plus HybridwollPad combo does have its limits, though: sanding marks of P1000 and coarser can't be fully removed in a single pass on the dual-action, even with this aggressive pairing. Here the rotary with a polish like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax\u003c\/a\u003e stays on top. The EX 05-05 covers the range from P1500 down to light P1200 marks — and in that range it gives you a result on the dual-action that makes switching to the rotary unnecessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor anyone who rarely uses their dual-action for heavy-cut, an important note: the performance of the EX 05-05 depends a lot on the quality of the dual-action. Cheap entry-level DAs with a short throw (8 mm) and a weak motor hit their limits fast on heavy defects. Machines with a long throw (15 to 21 mm) like the common pro models deliver far more friction energy and tap the EX 05-05's potential better. If you're planning to do heavy-cut work on the dual-action regularly, the investment in a long-throw machine pays off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the EX 05-05 the right way — pad choice, speed and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e shows its full strength paired with the HybridwollPad. For less aggressive jobs — say on near-new paint with only light scratches — a hard foam pad (orange) works too, giving slightly less cut at slightly higher gloss. On a soft finishing pad the compound loses too much cutting power — for pure finish-polishing the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/a\u003e is the better call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePut three to four pea-sized dots on the pad and spread the compound over the panel at a low speed. Step up to speed 5 to 6 and work in slow, overlapping passes across the section. A typical section — about half a fender — takes three to four minutes on the dual-action. By the end of the pass the compound should sit clear and thin on the surface — the sign that the abrasives have fully broken down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003emachine handling\u003c\/strong\u003e on the EX 05-05 differs from a finishing polish: with heavy-cut you can apply a bit more pressure than when finish-polishing, but only ever enough that the dual-action motion doesn't come to a stop. The moment you feel the machine stalling or vibrating, take the pressure off straight away. A stalling pad creates localised heat that can cause thermal damage on sensitive paints — showing up as light discolouration or dullness that even re-polishing can no longer fully correct.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you work on \u003cstrong\u003eedges and raised lines\u003c\/strong\u003e, take extra care: the clearcoat there is often only half as thick as on the flats. Drop the pressure clearly in these areas and rather run one extra pass with little pressure than a single pass with too much cut. A coating thickness gauge before you start gives you certainty about the room you've got to work with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the pass, wipe the residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check under LED light. If defects are still visible, repeat the pass on the same section. With the EX 05-05, two to three passes per panel on hard European paints are nothing unusual — on softer Japanese or Korean paints a single pass is often enough. Match your expectations to the paint type and plan in enough time, instead of giving up after one pass when the result isn't right yet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDegrease the polished surface afterwards with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to see the true result. Polishing oils can visually mask leftover defects — under Prepare it becomes clear whether all the scratches have really gone or whether another pass is needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHeavy-cut on the dual-action — typical use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main field for the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e is defect correction on paints that are too sensitive for the rotary, or where you prefer the safety of the dual-action. Day-to-day, that comes down to a few scenarios:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you're \u003cstrong\u003edetailing dark paints\u003c\/strong\u003e (black, dark blue, dark grey), the dual-action is the safer call, because it throws fewer holograms than the rotary. On these demanding colours the EX 05-05 delivers enough cut to remove scratches and swirls, and the 5\/5 gloss rating keeps the rework to a minimum. On black paint a short finishing pass with the EX 04-06 often makes sense, to pull out that last bit of deep gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003ecars with a thin clearcoat layer\u003c\/strong\u003e — measured with a coating thickness gauge — the dual-action gives you more control over material removal. The EX 05-05 removes defects efficiently, but more controlled than a rotary polish, because the dual-action motion takes off less per unit of time. That gives you the chance to check progress after every pass and stop in time, before the clearcoat gets too thin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003escratch removal in hard-to-reach spots\u003c\/strong\u003e — door-handle recesses, swage lines, transitions between panels — the compact dual-action with a small pad (75 mm or 125 mm) is a better fit than the big rotary. The EX 05-05 works on all common pad sizes and adapts flexibly to the panel geometry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more scenario that pro detailers value: \u003cstrong\u003ecorrecting transport damage and car-wash scratches\u003c\/strong\u003e on new vehicles. Plenty of new cars arrive at the dealer with fine to medium scratches — caused by film removal, transport securing or careless cleaning out on the lot. The EX 05-05 removes these defects on the safe dual-action, without putting the thin factory paint at risk. Combined with a final ceramic coating, the car ends up better protected than it was in delivery condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound comparison — EX 05-05 vs. CutMax vs. Cut+Finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe three key cutting compounds in the SONAX PROFILINE range cover different machine types and demands:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the cutting compound for the rotary — maximum cut (6\/5), moderate gloss (4\/5), optimised for the high friction energy of the rotary. It's the first choice for heavy defects from P1000 up on the rotary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eCut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the one-step solution for the rotary — same cut value as the EX 05-05, but with a high-gloss finish at the same time. It covers the range from P1500 up and combines cutting and finishing in a single pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05 (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the counterpart to the Cut+Finish for the dual-action: same performance values, but a formula optimised for the kinematics of the DA. If you own a dual-action and want to do heavy defect correction, you reach for the EX 05-05. If you've got a rotary, you take the Cut+Finish or CutMax. A universal polish that works equally well on both machine types doesn't exist — the physical demands of the two motions are too different. That's why SONAX deliberately developed separate product lines for rotary and dual-action with the PROFILINE range, rather than offering compromise products that don't show their full strength on either machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the EX 05-05 — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. For the occasional job detailing your own car, the 250 ml bottle is enough — a full defect correction uses between 50 and 100 ml depending on the size of the car and how bad the defects are. The 1000 ml bottle is the more economical option for detailing businesses and keen enthusiasts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the optimal workflow for the dual-action, the EX 05-05 is the first step (heavy-cut), followed by the EX 04-06 as the finishing step and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for degreasing and checking the result. This two-step process on the dual-action gets you results that come close to a three-step process on the rotary — at clearly lower risk of holograms and burn-through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone with both EX-series polishes on the shelf — the EX 05-05 for heavy-cut and the EX 04-06 for finish — is set up for every dual-action job. The two products complement each other perfectly: the EX 05-05 removes the heavy defects, the EX 04-06 pulls out the last bit of gloss. Together they replace a three-product system (cutting paste, cutting compound, finishing polish) of the kind that's standard with the rotary — fewer products, fewer pad changes, fewer things to get wrong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor economical use: the product consumption of the EX 05-05 on heavy-cut work runs a bit higher than on a finishing polish, because you need more passes per panel. For a full defect correction on the dual-action, count on around 80 to 120 ml per car — depending on the size of the car and how bad the defects are. The 250 ml bottle does two to three cars that way, the 1000 ml bottle eight to twelve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne tip for pad care: the HybridwollPad should be cleaned thoroughly after every car — polish residue in the wool fibres hardens and reduces cutting power on the next job. Rinse the pad out under warm water after the work and let it dry fully before you use it again. You can tell a worn-out HybridwollPad by the wool fibres being flattened and no longer springing back — that's when it's time for a new pad. Rather invest in a fresh pad than in an extra polishing pass: the cut of a new pad is noticeably higher than that of a worn one, and the result more even. Professional outfits change the HybridwollPad after five to eight cars at the latest — beyond that the wool structure is so compacted that the cut drops off noticeably and you're no longer getting the full efficiency out of the EX 05-05.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520446619983,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520446652751,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000","price":40.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520446685519,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410_2","price":34.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520446718287,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410_3","price":52.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520446751055,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000_2","price":80.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520446783823,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000_3","price":121.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut.png?v=1730649133"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" cutting compound (down to P1000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches and sanding marks with the SONAX CutMax cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX CutMax do? A cutting compound with maximum cut (6\/4) that pulls out sanding marks from P1000 grit, deep scratches and paint overspray — low-dust thanks to Low Dust Technology, dialled in for rotary machines.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen the paint is hammered badly enough that a normal polish just won't cut it anymore, the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e steps in. With a cut rating of 6 on the SONAX scale, it's the most aggressive polish in the PROFILINE range — built for jobs where you need maximum material removal: deep scratches, P1000 sanding marks, orange peel, paint fog and badly weathered paintwork. Despite that heavy cut, the CutMax works almost dust-free thanks to Low Dust Technology and leaves a gloss level of 4\/5, which in most cases only needs a quick finishing step after it. For body shops and pro detailers, the CutMax is the tool of choice when efficiency on defect removal beats everything else.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut for heavy defects.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasive blend in the CutMax is built for fast, deep cutting. It pulls out sanding marks from P1000 in a single pass — a range lighter polishes simply can't reach. Baked-on bug splatter, deep scratches and years of neglected weathering get cut away just as effectively. That cut saves real time in the bay, because you need fewer passes than with milder products.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow Dust Technology for clean work.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a lot of polishes, heavy cut also means heavy dust — a problem that settles into panel gaps, seals and across the whole workspace and needs serious cleanup. The CutMax solves that with its dedicated Low Dust formula: the compound stays on the pad and on the surface through the whole process instead of dusting off. That saves you the cleanup and keeps polishing dust out of freshly painted areas — a critical point in body shops.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGood gloss despite the heavy cut.\u003c\/strong\u003e A gloss level of 4\/5 is remarkable for a cutting compound this aggressive. Plenty of competing products with a comparable cut leave a dull, hazy finish that absolutely needs a finishing step. The CutMax gets much closer to the end result — on a lot of paints a quick pass with a finishing polish like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e is all it takes to hit showroom gloss.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the CutMax on the rotary with a hard foam pad (white) or a lambswool pad for maximum cut. Start at 1000 rpm to spread the compound out, then take it up to 1500–1800 rpm for the actual cutting. Work in rows with 50 percent overlap and lay down even, moderate pressure — the abrasives need friction, not heavy pressure. After each pass, check with an LED light whether the defects are fully gone before you move to the finishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut 6\/4 — how the CutMax can take heavy paint defects out in one pass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e hits its high cut through a mix of specially sized abrasive particles and a formula that keeps the cut steady across the whole pass. Unlike basic cutting compounds, whose cut drops off noticeably after the first thirty seconds because the abrasives break down too fast, the CutMax holds its cutting power through the entire work cycle. In practice that means: one pass of two to three minutes per section is enough to fully remove even deep sanding marks — instead of the three or four passes you'd need with a weaker polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gloss level of 4\/5 shows the CutMax isn't a pure cutting paste but a cutting compound with controlled particle breakdown. The abrasives start out aggressive and break down into finer particles over the pass, which already take care of part of the finish. The result is a surface that's noticeably smoother and glossier than after a pure cutting paste — but not yet at the level of a dedicated finishing polish. For shops that need to get to a presentable result fast after wet sanding, that in-between stage is often already enough when concours quality isn't on the table.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important difference to the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/a\u003e: the CutMax has the higher cut and comes in where the Cut+Finish doesn't pull enough material anymore — so with P1000 sanding marks, deep scratches and heavy weathering. The Cut+Finish is the one-step solution from P1500, the CutMax is the heavy hammer for everything below that. In a lot of shops both products sit side by side: the Cut+Finish for most of the day-to-day work, the CutMax for the heavy cases.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a cutting compound right — machine, pad and technique for maximum cut\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e shows its full potential on the rotary machine. The pure rotation builds more friction and heat than a dual-action machine — exactly the energy a cutting compound at this level needs to deliver maximum cut. It works on a dual-action machine too, but with a clearly reduced cut: you need more passes and more time for the same result. If you regularly tackle heavy correction, the rotary is the right investment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epad choice\u003c\/strong\u003e heavily shapes the result. For maximum cut, go for a hard foam pad (white in the SONAX colour system) or a lambswool pad. The lambswool pad gives the highest cut of all pad types but also leaves the roughest surface — ideal for the first pass on heavy defects, followed by a foam pad for the refinement. A medium pad reduces the cut and suits paints that need less correction, or sensitive areas like edges and creases, where too aggressive a cut could burn through the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor application, put three to four pea-sized dots on the pad and spread the compound across the panel at low speed. Then take it up to working speed and polish in rows with fifty percent overlap. Work in sections of around forty by forty centimetres — small enough to stay in control, big enough to make efficient progress. Listen to the machine: a steady hum tells you the pad is working cleanly on the surface. A rattle or vibration points to too much pressure or a clogged pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the cutting pass, wipe the compound residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED light. If the defects are fully gone, the finishing step follows. If marks are still showing, repeat the pass — better a second controlled pass than a single one with too much pressure that can cause holograms or heat spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common beginner mistake working with the CutMax: too much product on the pad. A cutting compound needs less product than a finishing polish, because the cut comes from the abrasives, not from the volume of paste. Three to four small dots are enough for a section of forty by forty centimetres. Too much product thins out the cutting action, drags out the pass and makes wiping harder. In pro shops, experienced polishers sometimes work with even less product — they make up for the smaller amount with precise machine control that gets the most out of the abrasive that's there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important note on \u003cstrong\u003eheat control\u003c\/strong\u003e: the rotary builds serious heat when you work with a cutting compound. On dark paints the surface temperature can climb past seventy degrees in a few seconds — a temperature that can damage the clear coat. Check the temperature regularly by running the back of your hand over the surface. When it gets uncomfortably warm, let the section cool briefly before you carry on. On edges, creases and raised lines the heat build-up is especially critical, because the paint layer there is thinner than on flat panels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting heavy paint defects — the ideal use cases for the CutMax\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for the \u003cstrong\u003eCutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e is defect correction after wet sanding with P1000 to P1200 grit. In the body shop that's the most common use: after a blend-in or spot repair, the transition between new and old paint gets wet sanded, and the CutMax then takes the sanding marks out in a single pass. The compound being silicone-free is key here — in a shop environment where paint goes on every day, there can be no silicone risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003ereconditioning badly neglected vehicles\u003c\/strong\u003e the CutMax shows its strength too. Paints that have been exposed to sun, bird droppings, tree sap and industrial fallout for years build up an oxidised layer that lighter polishes can't get through. The CutMax cuts that layer away efficiently and exposes the undamaged paint underneath. The result is often striking: colours that looked dull and faded show the full depth and brilliance of the original paint again after correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003enew-car reconditioning\u003c\/strong\u003e the CutMax comes into play too, when the factory paint shows heavy orange peel. A wet sand with P1000 levels the surface, and the CutMax brings the gloss back. This job takes experience, because the clear coat on new vehicles is often thinner than on older paint systems — a paint thickness reading before sanding is a must, so you don't break through the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003epartial PPF wraps\u003c\/strong\u003e on front ends the CutMax sometimes comes in indirectly: the paint under the film gets polished before the wrap to clear up any defects that would show through the clear film. The CutMax removes scratches and swirls fast and effectively, and the finishing polish after it leaves a flawlessly smooth base for the film to bond to.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the CutMax hits its limits: on scratches that reach down into the base coat or the primer, no polish helps — here you need to respray the affected spot. The CutMax also can't replace clear coat that's already peeling over a large area. In cases like that it's better to be honest with the customer about the limits of polishing than to promise a result you can't reach. Honest communication builds the customer's trust over the long run far more than a cosmetic compromise that shows again after a few weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound comparison — CutMax vs. UltimateCut vs. EX 05-05\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range there are three products in play for heavy defect removal: CutMax, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut\"\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut (6+\/3)\u003c\/strong\u003e has the highest cut in the whole range — even higher than the CutMax. It's reserved for the most extreme cases: the worst weathering, P800 sanding marks, massive orange peel. The gloss level of 3\/5 shows that after the UltimateCut a finishing step is definitely needed — often even a two-step finish. The UltimateCut is the tool for specialists, not for daily use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05 (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits on the other side of the spectrum: the same cut and same gloss as the Cut+Finish, but with a different formula that works better on certain paint systems. It's the alternative for anyone who doesn't get the result they want with the Cut+Finish — for example on particularly hard ceramic clear coats, where the EX series has traditionally been strong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits between these extremes: more cut than the EX 05-05, but a clearly better gloss than the UltimateCut. For the bulk of heavy defect-correction work — wet sanding from P1000, deep scratches, heavy weathering — the CutMax is the optimal choice, because it gets the defect removal done in one step and keeps the finishing step after it short.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the CutMax — bottle sizes and workflow recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1000 ml and 5 litres. The 250 ml bottle is enough for several complete vehicle corrections and is the ideal entry point for private users and smaller outfits. The 1000 ml bottle is the standard size for shops with regular polishing demand. The 5-litre container is aimed at high-throughput businesses — the per-litre price is lowest here, and the wide opening makes it easier to dispense with a dosing bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best polishing workflow we recommend the combination: CutMax as the cutting compound on the rotary, followed by the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e as the finishing step on the dual-action machine, and finally \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for degreasing and result check. This three-step combo covers the whole defect-correction process — from heavy cutting to a finish that's ready to seal. Anyone who wants to lay down a long-term sealant afterwards already has the perfect base with Prepare.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn shelf life and storage: like all cutting compounds, the CutMax can separate slightly if it sits for a while. Shake the bottle thoroughly before every use until the consistency is homogeneous and creamy again. Store the product frost-free and sealed — frozen compound loses its abrasive structure and is useless after that. Stored properly, the CutMax keeps its full performance over the whole shelf life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA closing practical note on the \u003cstrong\u003ecost-effective use\u003c\/strong\u003e in the shop: the CutMax has a higher per-litre price than consumer polishes from the DIY store, but the product consumption per vehicle is much lower. The concentrated formula means you get by with three to four dots per section — a 250 ml bottle lasts for several complete vehicle corrections. Measured by result per euro spent, the CutMax is therefore more economical than cheaper alternatives that need double or triple the product and still take more passes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520611148111,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410","price":19.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520611180879,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000","price":60.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53520611213647,"sku":"D1-SNX-2465000","price":229.43,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520611246415,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410_2","price":38.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520611279183,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410_3","price":58.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520611311951,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000_2","price":120.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520611344719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000_3","price":181.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur.png?v=1730650207"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-os-02-06-hochglanz-politur-versiegelung-one-step","title":"PROFILINE OS \"02-06\" High-Gloss Polish with Sealant (One-Step)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHigh gloss and sealing in one step — SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 do? This one-step polish pairs fine paint correction with a built-in protective sealant — high gloss, light swirl removal and instant paint protection in a single pass, ideal for maintenance jobs and time-tight detailing workflows.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day in detailing there are jobs where a full multi-stage polish isn't needed — or just doesn't pay off: new-car prep with barely any swirling, regular maintenance work on well-kept cars, or fleet jobs on a tight clock. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for exactly those cases: a pro-grade one-step polish that levels light hologramming and swirl marks in a single pass while laying down a protective sealant layer at the same time. The payoff: high gloss and paint protection without a separate sealing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne-step technology: correction and sealing at once.\u003c\/strong\u003e Standard polishing splits paint correction and sealing into separate steps — polish first, wipe down with a panel wipe, then seal. The OS 02-06 folds those steps together with a hybrid formula: fine abrasive particles correct light surface defects while you work the panel, and the built-in sealant polymer lays down as a protective layer on the freshly levelled clear coat. Three steps shrink to one — with no give on gloss on suitable cars.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFine cut for light swirl marks and hologramming.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cut of the OS 02-06 sits mid-range on the SONAX scale at \"02-06\": fine enough for finishing passes and one-step work, still strong enough to pull light to medium swirl marks. On forgiving paint (hard factory clear coats, say, or newer soft paints in good shape) the OS 02-06 leaves a finish that's sealing-ready with no follow-up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt-in sealant protection straight after polishing.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polymer additive in the one-step formula forms a thin, even protective layer on the clear coat once you've buffed it out. That layer boosts hydrophobicity, lifts the gloss a touch and gives you a first line of defence against moisture, dirt and UV. The protection won't last like a dedicated ceramic or polymer sealant, but for cars on short detailing intervals — or as a first protective layer after a baseline job — it does the trick.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The OS 02-06 gives its best with a combo pad (medium-firm foam pads or combi microfibre pads) that carries the fine abrasive particles well and spreads the sealant polymer evenly across the surface at the same time. Run your dual-action polisher at 4–5 for the correction phase, then drop to 2–3 for the final finishing pass so the sealant polymer buffs out evenly. One thing: if you're putting a full ceramic sealant over the top afterwards, degrease first with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — the OS 02-06's sealant polymer has to come off before a new coating, or it'll hurt adhesion. On cars getting nothing but the OS 02-06, you can skip that step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne-step polishing technology — correction and sealing fused into one formula\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe technical trick of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is fusing two normally incompatible jobs into one formula: abrasive polishing and protective-layer build. A pure correction polish needs to stay free of waxy or polymer ingredients that would wedge between abrasive and paint and dull the cut. A pure sealant, the other way round, can't carry any abrasion that would tear the fresh protective layer straight back off. The OS 02-06 squares that circle with a specifically tuned particle size and an optimised formulation approach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe finely milled abrasive particles in the OS 02-06 are sized so they do their correcting during the active polishing phase — when the pad is driven across the panel under pressure and speed. As the polish buffs out (less pressure, lower speed), the remaining polymer parts of the formula lay an even film across the cleaned surface. That sequencing — cut first, then protective-layer build — is what lets both jobs live in one product without stepping on each other.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS 02-06's sealing component is built as short-term protection that holds for several months, but it isn't on par with a full polymer or ceramic sealant. For cars detailed regularly (every 3–6 months) where lasting ceramic-coating protection isn't the goal, this level of protection is plenty. For cars where maximum sealant durability is the goal, the two-step route (OS 02-06 or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e for the polish, then a panel wipe and a dedicated sealant) stays the first choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the OS 02-06 right — pad choice, machine and workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGetting the one-step polish right starts with the pad: for the OS 02-06, reach for combi pads or lightly abrasive foam pads that back up the correction side and spread the sealant side evenly. Pure finishing pads (very soft pads with no cut of their own) knock back the OS 02-06's correction power hard — when swirl removal is the priority, a combi pad is the better call. Very hard or abrasive pads, on the other hand, lift correction power but can work the sealant polymer in too aggressively and leave an uneven finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMachine work: start your one-step polishing at medium speed (4–5 on the dual-action polisher) with normal polishing pressure. Spread the polish on the pad first, then run overlapping passes across the panel — usually 2–3 passes for full swirl removal. For the final pass, drop the speed and ease off the pressure to buff the sealant polymer in evenly for the finish. Make your wipe-off pass with a clean microfibre cloth when the polish on the paint turns to its whitish, hazy phase — that's the sweet spot to wipe the sealant component off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for checking your work: once it's buffed out, check the panel under raking artificial light for any swirl marks left behind. The OS 02-06 pulls light swirls clean off and knocks medium swirls back hard — deep scratches and heavy hologramming stay visible with a one-step polish and call for a multi-stage process with a more aggressive correction step. The one-step polish is no substitute for multi-stage correction on badly marred paint; it's the right tool for paint where the damage level doesn't call for deeper correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the OS 02-06 fits — when the one-step polish is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e nails several typical detailing scenarios. New-car prep: fresh cars come in with transport-protection residue and fine hologramming from the factory polish, but no deeper swirls or scratches. The OS 02-06 pulls these fine surface defects off in one pass and leaves the paint sealing-ready — an economical, time-efficient answer for pre-delivery new-car prep.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMaintenance work and regular care: cars detailed every few months that have only picked up light, everyday swirl marks are where the OS 02-06's one-step efficiency shines. Instead of polishing the panel, then degreasing it, then sealing it, you get it all done in one go. For shops with high car throughput, that means real time saved per car — and a solid result alongside it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDealer prep and lot cars: used-car dealers and lease returns with manageable paint damage (everyday scratches, light swirls from the wash line) are a classic use case. The OS 02-06 lets you turn out a fast, convincing job that makes the car a lot more sellable, without the time hit of a full multi-stage detail. The sealant polymer in the OS 02-06 also protects the paint against the elements while the car sits on the lot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe OS 02-06 compared — one-step vs. multi-stage polishing and the OS 04-05\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range carries two one-step polishes for different needs. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-os-04-05-hochglanz-politur-one-step\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 04-05\u003c\/a\u003e is the more aggressive one-step polish with a higher cut (04-05 on the SONAX scale) — it's built for paint with medium to heavier swirl marks the OS 02-06 doesn't correct enough. The OS 04-05 carries no built-in sealant and is positioned as a pure correction product that calls for a separate sealing step afterwards. The pick between the two comes down to how damaged the paint is: light swirls and maintenance work → OS 02-06, medium to heavier swirls → OS 04-05 followed by a separate sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst a multi-stage polish (coarse correction step + finishing polish + panel wipe + sealant), the one-step polish loses ground on badly damaged paint, as you'd expect: it can't pull deep scratches that need a coarse cutting step, and the built-in protection won't last like a dedicated ceramic coating. For paint that far gone, we recommend the multi-stage process with the NP 03-06 as the finishing polish. The OS 02-06's edge is the time and efficiency it buys you on light to lightly-medium damage — used on the right car, it turns out a professional finish that convinces the customer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers who want to cover both scenarios, we recommend the OS 02-06 as the standard one-step for the bulk of cars coming in (the ones in normal care condition) and the OS 04-05 as backup for more heavily damaged paint. Splitting your polishing workflow by damage level like this is a professional approach that maximises finish quality and keeps the work economical.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1 litre, plus as 2-pack and 3-pack sets. The 250 ml bottle is ideal if you want to try the product out, or for working small areas (single panels, bonnet, roof). The 1 litre bottle is the most economical pick for regular users and pro shops — depending on pad size and car size, each application takes about 15–25 ml, so a litre is good for about 40–65 full car applications.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS 02-06 is a particularly good call for shops offering a high-quality, time-efficient detail as a standard service that want to lean on one product covering both correction and protection. For car washes and quick details on limited time, the one-step formula is economically attractive. And for private owners caring for their own car who want a simple process with no stack of chemicals, the OS 02-06 is a no-fuss answer for a full detail in a single pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line, the SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 is the right tool for every job where time and efficiency count without giving up paint correction and protection. If you want to combine professional gloss and instant paint protection on a car in good shape, the OS 02-06 is the most effective answer in the SONAX PROFILINE polishing range.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520769352015,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410","price":9.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520769384783,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000","price":25.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520769417551,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410_2","price":18.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520769450319,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410_3","price":28.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520769483087,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000_2","price":50.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520769515855,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000_3","price":76.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-os-02-06-hochglanz-politur-versiegelung-one-step.png?v=1730651051"},{"product_id":"meguiars-ultimate-polish-pre-waxing-glaze-politur","title":"Ultimate Polish Pre-Waxing Glaze","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMaximum paint gloss in one step: Meguiar's Ultimate Polish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes a pre-waxing glaze special? A good finishing polish clears the last fine swirls, adds conditioning oils for colour depth, and lays down an ideal base for your sealant — Meguiar's Ultimate Polish does exactly that in a single step.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the compound comes the fine work: \u003cstrong\u003eMeguiar's Ultimate Polish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the last polishing stage before you wax or seal. It clears the fine leftover marks from the compound, wipes out any remaining swirls, and — thanks to the conditioning oils inside — pulls a depth and brilliance out of the paint that already looks stunning on its own, and only intensifies once the wax goes on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRemoves the finest swirls and wipe marks.\u003c\/strong\u003e Ultimate Polish works with finer abrasives than Ultimate Compound and levels out the last irregularities in the clear coat — you end up with a mirror-smooth surface, no haze, no holograms, no visible working marks.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eConditioning oils for colour depth and brilliance.\u003c\/strong\u003e The conditioning oils inside deepen colour and gloss — on dark paint especially (black, dark blue, graphite) the before-and-after is dramatic. The paint reads deeper, wetter, more three-dimensional.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe ideal prep for sealing.\u003c\/strong\u003e As a pre-waxing glaze, Ultimate Polish leaves a chemically ideal, low-oil surface for whatever seals next — \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-hybrid-ceramic-liquid-wax-wachsversiegelung\"\u003eHybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax\u003c\/a\u003e or \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-ultimate-ceramic-coating-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eUltimate Ceramic Coating\u003c\/a\u003e grabs more evenly after the polish and lasts longer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ultimate Polish shows its strongest side on black and dark paint. For a show-car finish: Ultimate Compound → Ultimate Polish → Hybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep → Ultimate Ceramic Coating. That running order is our standard for professional paint work at Detailing1.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003ePre-waxing glaze: more than just a polish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe term \"pre-waxing glaze\" points to a double job: Meguiar's Ultimate Polish is a finishing polish (it clears defects) and a gloss enhancer (it adds depth and brilliance) at the same time. That makes it a one-of-a-kind product in the detailing order — no other step between compound and wax gives you this much back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe conditioning oils in \u003cstrong\u003eUltimate Polish\u003c\/strong\u003e are the deciding factor: they sink into the tiny pores and micro-cracks of the clear coat, fill them, and leave a surface that reads dead smooth. That's the \"wet gloss\" effect experienced detailers chase — paint that looks like it just came out of the spray booth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn dark colours especially — black, dark blue, British Racing Green, graphite — the oils do their most visible work. Dark paint gives away every irregularity and every reflection. After Ultimate Polish those surfaces come back deeper, more even and more brilliant than a compound alone ever manages.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use it: when by hand, when by machine?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUltimate Polish works by hand and on the DA polisher alike. For the best results we'd reach for a white or blue finishing pad on the DA at speed 2–3.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBy hand:\u003c\/strong\u003e for smaller panels, trim and awkward spots. Small dab on the applicator pad, work it in crosswise with light pressure, then wipe off with a clean microfibre cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDA polisher:\u003c\/strong\u003e white or blue finishing pad, speed 2–3. Put product on the pad, spread it over the panel before you switch the machine on (keeps the sling down). 2–3 passes per panel, then wipe the residue off with a dry microfibre cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAfter the polish:\u003c\/strong\u003e for the best sealing result, run \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-hybrid-ceramic-pre-wax-prep-politur\"\u003eHybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep\u003c\/a\u003e as your final degrease and SiO2 priming step before the wax or ceramic coating goes on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolishing results: paint depth, high gloss and ideal sealing prep\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMeguiars Ultimate Polish\u003c\/strong\u003e pulls off two things at once in day-to-day work: it corrects light surface defects like swirls and dull oxidation spots, and it lays down a perfect base for whatever seals next. After you're done the paint reads noticeably deeper and more reflective — metallic and pearl effects pop harder. Because the polish formula runs silicone-free fillers, the surface stays ideally receptive to waxes and sealants. The result after sealing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-ultimate-paste-wax\"\u003eMeguiars Ultimate Paste Wax\u003c\/a\u003e clearly beats the result with no glaze step first: the sealant grabs better, the gloss runs deeper, and durability stretches out. On cars with older or badly weathered paint, Ultimate Polish is often the step that makes the difference between decent and professional.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eUltimate Polish in the detailing order\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUltimate Polish has its fixed spot in the professional detailing chain: as stage 2, after the compound and before wax or sealant, it's a must for maximum gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe full order for a professional paint correction: (1) wash and clay (pull contaminants off), (2) \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-ultimate-compound-politur\"\u003eUltimate Compound\u003c\/a\u003e (scratches and heavy defects), (3) Ultimate Polish (fine finish and gloss depth), (4) Hybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep (degrease and SiO2 primer), (5) sealant of your choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're only after light swirls and top gloss with no defect correction, you can start straight in with Ultimate Polish as a single polishing step — the results are impressive even without a compound step first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho is Meguiar's Ultimate Polish right for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUltimate Polish is ideal for anyone who wants to squeeze the maximum out of their paint care. For show-car enthusiasts chasing perfect reflections. For detailers who want to finish the paint off cleanly after a compound. For every owner of a dark car who'll cash in on the deep-gloss pull of the conditioning oils. And for regular seasonal polishing with no heavy compounding.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Meguiars","offers":[{"title":"16 fl oz (473 ml)","offer_id":53655005004111,"sku":"D1-MEG-G19216EU","price":17.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Meguiars-Ultimate-Polish-Pre-Waxing-Glaze-Politur-16-oz-473-ml_PS1.jpg?v=1775376673"},{"product_id":"meguiars-ultimate-compound-politur","title":"Ultimate Compound Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove scratches and swirls like a pro: Meguiar's Ultimate Compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat's the best compound for removing scratches? A good compound has to cut scratches and oxidation effectively, leave a clear finish and be safe on modern clear coats — the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with Micro-Abrasive technology ticks all three boxes.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eMeguiar's Ultimate Compound\u003c\/strong\u003e is one of the best-selling paint correction products in the world — and for good reason: the Micro-Abrasive technology pairs real cutting power with the result of a finishing polish. Scratches, swirls, oxidation, bird-dropping etching and stubborn water spots get pulled out safely and effectively, and the paint comes back clear and brilliant — no white haze, no holograms, and often no follow-up polish needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMicro-Abrasive technology for a clear finish.\u003c\/strong\u003e Old-school compounds leave a dull haze or holograms behind that you then have to chase out with a finishing polish. Thanks to its fine micro-abrasive particles, the Ultimate Compound leaves a much clearer finish — plenty of detailers skip the finishing-polish step entirely.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks by hand and with a DA polisher.\u003c\/strong\u003e For small spots (scratches on door edges, car-park dings) you can work the Ultimate Compound in by hand. For larger paint correction (bonnet, roof) a DA polisher with an orange cutting pad gives you the most effective and most even result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSafe on every modern clear coat.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Ultimate Compound suits any vehicle with a clear-coat finish — metallic, solid, pearl. Don't use it on matte paint or bare, unsealed metal.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Never lay the Ultimate Compound down on dry paint — that leads to uncontrolled cutting and holograms. Start on a small test patch to dial in the right amount and pressure for the paint you're working on. After the compound, always protect the paint with a sealant — freshly polished paint is left bare and is especially vulnerable to the elements.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eMicro-Abrasive technology: why the Ultimate Compound is so effective\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOld-school compounds rely on coarse abrasive particles that cut paint effectively — but they often leave holograms and deep marring behind that you have to chase out in a second step with a finishing polish. That's time-consuming and risky, especially if you're less experienced.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Micro-Abrasive technology in the \u003cstrong\u003eUltimate Compound\u003c\/strong\u003e solves this with a clever formula: the abrasive particles are sized to cut defects effectively, but they break down and get smaller the longer you work them. The result: at the start the compound behaves like a medium compound, and by the end of the set it works like a finishing polish. That effect makes follow-up steps unnecessary much of the time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day that means fewer steps, less clear-coat removed, and still a brilliant result. For weekend detailers who don't want to run a three-stage polish, the Ultimate Compound is the most efficient tool for paint correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Ultimate Compound right — hand vs. machine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHow you apply it decides the result. Both methods (hand and machine) work, but with different effort and finish quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBy hand:\u003c\/strong\u003e Put a small dab on a foam applicator pad. Work it into a 40×40 cm area with medium pressure — cross-hatch passes for even cutting. The compound dries fairly quickly: always finish one area before you move to the next. Wipe off with a clean microfibre and check the result. On stubborn defects, run it again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWith a DA polisher:\u003c\/strong\u003e Use an orange cutting pad (Lake Country or similar). Spread the product over the pad before you start, and only switch the machine on after that. Speed 3–4 for normal work, speed 5–6 only on very stubborn defects. 2–3 passes per area, then check the result. Wipe off residue with a dry microfibre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAfter the compound:\u003c\/strong\u003e Protect the paint with wax or a sealant — straight afterwards we'd reach for the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-ultimate-ceramic-coating-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eUltimate Ceramic Coating\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-hybrid-ceramic-liquid-wax-wachsversiegelung\"\u003eHybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax\u003c\/a\u003e. For a maximum-gloss finish before waxing, use the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-ultimate-polish-pre-waxing-glaze-politur\"\u003eUltimate Polish\u003c\/a\u003e as the finishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCompound results day-to-day: paint correction and deep gloss\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter running the \u003cstrong\u003eMeguiars Ultimate Compound\u003c\/strong\u003e, the results speak for themselves: swirl marks, light scratches and layers of oxidation are clearly reduced or fully removed. The micro-abrasive formula leaves a noticeably smoother, more reflective surface than old-school compounds – often so clear that you can skip an extra polishing step if you're not chasing maximum gloss. For the best results on heavily oxidised or scratched paint, follow up with a sealant like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-ultimate-liquid-wax\"\u003eMeguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-ultimate-paste-wax\"\u003eUltimate Paste Wax\u003c\/a\u003e to protect the corrected surface. The compound is especially good for cars with dull, aged paint, scratches from automatic car-wash brushes and oxidation from UV exposure – the situations where a regular polish on its own just won't cut it.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eWhen is the Ultimate Compound enough, and when do I need more?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ultimate Compound is the right tool for: fine to medium scratches (under 5 microns deep, ones you can't yet feel with a fingernail), swirls and wipe marks, UV oxidation (dull, cloudy paint), water spots and light bird-dropping etching, holograms from earlier polishing attempts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ultimate Compound hits its limits with: deep scratches (you can feel them with a fingernail, going through the clear coat down to the primer), paint with heavy stone-chip scarring, professional multi-layer paint damage. There you need an aggressive machine correction with a heavier compound, or a professional paint repair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs part of the detailing order: Ultimate Compound → \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-ultimate-polish-pre-waxing-glaze-politur\"\u003eUltimate Polish\u003c\/a\u003e → \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-hybrid-ceramic-pre-wax-prep-politur\"\u003eHybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep\u003c\/a\u003e → sealant. This sequence gives you the full polishing result for demanding paint corrections.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho is the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound the right choice for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ultimate Compound is ideal for: home detailers who want to fix a scratch, car-park ding or greyed-out paint themselves. Anyone who does a thorough paint correction once a year and wants to seal the result afterwards. DA-polisher beginners after a more forgiving compound than aggressive 3M or Rupes compounds. Pros who need a reliable, well-known product for medium corrections on customer cars.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Meguiars","offers":[{"title":"15.2 oz (450 ml)","offer_id":53655226941775,"sku":"D1-MEG-G17216DE","price":17.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Meguiars-Ultimate-Compound-Politur-152-oz-450-ml_PS1_9da60f57-6614-47da-b140-f2c95ea41930.jpg?v=1775376588"},{"product_id":"meguiars-hybrid-ceramic-pre-wax-prep-politur","title":"Hybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eThe perfect start before waxing: Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does a Pre-Wax Prep do? A Pre-Wax Prep cleans old wax residue off the paint, takes out fine scratches and swirls and gets the surface properly ready for the next sealant — and the Hybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep adds an SiO2 bonding layer on top of that.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore a new wax or sealant can do its job properly, the paint needs the right prep. The \u003cstrong\u003eMeguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep\u003c\/strong\u003e handles exactly that — and it does three jobs in one pass: it pulls old wax residue and micro-contamination off the paint, takes fine swirls and wipe marks out with its fine polishing agents, and lays down a thin ceramic layer via the SiO2 hybrid technology as a bonding base for the wax or sealant that follows.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTake out fine swirls and wipe marks.\u003c\/strong\u003e The fine polishing agents in it level the microscopic unevenness in the clearcoat that scatters light and makes paint look milky. After the treatment the paint reads clearer, deeper and more brilliant — before the wax even goes on.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProper bite for waxes and sealants.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SiO2 layer the Pre-Wax Prep leaves behind works as a bonding bridge for the rest of the Hybrid Ceramic system — \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-hybrid-ceramic-liquid-wax-wachsversiegelung\"\u003eHybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax\u003c\/a\u003e or \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-hybrid-ceramic-spray-wax-wachs-spruehversiegelung\"\u003eHybrid Ceramic Spray Wax\u003c\/a\u003e go down noticeably more evenly after a prep pass and hold on longer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e3 steps in one product.\u003c\/strong\u003e Paint prep, gloss boost and SiO2 priming in one pass saves time and saves you juggling three separate bottles — ideal for efficient seasonal detailing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always use the Pre-Wax Prep before waxing — never after. It actively strips old wax layers, which makes no sense once your fresh sealant is on. On badly neglected paint or deep swirls we'd go for Ultimate Compound or Ultimate Polish first for the defect correction, and only then bring in the Pre-Wax Prep as the last step before waxing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eSiO2 technology in the Pre-Wax Prep — how the perfect paint base is built\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep is more than a classic paint cleaner: it runs on \u003cstrong\u003eSiO2 paint care\u003c\/strong\u003e technology, so it doesn't just clean but leaves a chemically active surface for the sealant that follows.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eClassic pre-wax cleaners pull off dirt and old wax residue — that's it. The Hybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep goes further: the fine polishing agents in it work like a very mild polish that levels sub-microscopic clearcoat unevenness. That knocks back holograms and swirls in the range of a few nanometres — barely visible to the naked eye, but exactly what gives paint that milky shimmer in sunlight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAt the same time the SiO2 component forms a thin, even ceramic layer once you wipe off. That layer isn't as thick or as durable as a full ceramic coating — but it gives you a chemically ideal surface where the sealant that follows bites better, spreads more evenly and protects for longer. The trade calls it the „Bonding Layer\" — and the Hybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep delivers exactly that.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that really matters for the \u003cstrong\u003ePre-Wax Prep\u003c\/strong\u003e result: the product is safe on every paint colour, leaves no white residue in shuts and grooves, and works on modern clearcoats with so-called „soft clear\" finishes too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDoing it right: how you prep the paint with the Pre-Wax Prep\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHow you use the \u003cstrong\u003eHybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep\u003c\/strong\u003e decides how well the wax or sealant that follows will hold. Here's the method that works for us at Detailing1.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eStarting point:\u003c\/strong\u003e Wash the car properly, dry it. No old wax film, no water spots on the paint. The cleaner and drier the surface you start from, the harder the Pre-Wax Prep works.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLaying it down:\u003c\/strong\u003e A coin-sized blob onto a foam applicator pad. Work it in circles over an area of about 60 × 60 cm — with this product the circular motion is deliberate, because the micro-polish works the surface evenly regardless of direction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDwell time:\u003c\/strong\u003e Wipe it off with a clean microfibre right after you've spread it. No long dwell needed — the prep effect comes from the mechanical work as you apply, not from chemical dwell time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCheck:\u003c\/strong\u003e After wiping, the cloth should be slightly grey or slightly cream-coloured — that's the micro-residue and spent polishing agents you've just pulled off. Clear sign the prep did its job. If the cloth stays white with nothing on it, the paint was already very clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNext step:\u003c\/strong\u003e Get the wax or sealant on straight away, while the SiO2 base is still active. Leave a maximum of 30 minutes between Pre-Wax Prep and sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePre-Wax Prep in seasonal detailing — when and how often?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot every wash calls for a Pre-Wax Prep. This is a product for the bigger sessions — spring seasonal detailing, the refresh before winter, or the proper sort-out after a long trip.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a rule of thumb we'd reach for the \u003cstrong\u003ePre-Wax Prep\u003c\/strong\u003e before every new wax or sealant application. When the paint shows visible fine swirls or wipe marks. After the winter season, when road salt and grime call for a deeper clean. On cars that have run without a sealant for a longer stretch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt's no substitute for a polish on deep scratches, oxidation or heavier defects — for that you need \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-ultimate-compound-politur\"\u003eUltimate Compound\u003c\/a\u003e or \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-ultimate-polish-pre-waxing-glaze-politur\"\u003eUltimate Polish\u003c\/a\u003e as your correction stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the Pre-Wax Prep and the wax, regular upkeep with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-hybrid-ceramic-detailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eHybrid Ceramic Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e after every wash keeps the paint looking fresh a lot longer — a full care system that has proven itself day-to-day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePre-Wax Prep vs. paint polish — what's the difference?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA common mix-up: Pre-Wax Prep and paint polish get confused or treated as interchangeable. They aren't — they do fundamentally different jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA \u003cstrong\u003epaint polish\u003c\/strong\u003e (like \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-ultimate-polish-pre-waxing-glaze-politur\"\u003eUltimate Polish\u003c\/a\u003e) corrects visible defects: scratches, swirls, oxidised spots, panels gone dull. It removes a measurable amount of clearcoat while doing it — necessary, but not something you want on every job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eHybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep\u003c\/strong\u003e doesn't work correctively, it works preparatively: it pulls sub-microscopic residue off and smooths the surface on a chemical-mechanical level — without measurably removing clearcoat. It's the last treatment before waxing, not the first one when you can see defects.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo for the best result in seasonal detailing we'd combine them: Ultimate Compound for the heavy defects → Ultimate Polish for the finishing polish and gloss depth → Hybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep as the last step before waxing → Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax or Spray Wax as the sealant. That way you get the maximum out of every step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho is the Hybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep right for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eMeguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Pre-Wax Prep\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right call if you want to prep your paint properly before waxing. If you want to get the most out of your wax when you do the seasonal detail. If you want to knock back fine swirls quickly without a full polishing process. If you run the Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic system end to end and want every step dialled in to the next.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt makes less sense as your only measure on deep paint damage, heavy oxidation or serious swirls — there's no way round a proper polish there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs part of the Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic system, the Pre-Wax Prep pairs perfectly with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/meguiars-hybrid-ceramic-liquid-wax-wachsversiegelung\"\u003eHybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax\u003c\/a\u003e. The two together on a seasonal detail is one of the most effective things you can do for your paint for comparatively little effort.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Meguiars","offers":[{"title":"16 fl oz (473 ml)","offer_id":53734470746447,"sku":"D1-MEG-G220416EU","price":19.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/meguiars-hybrid-ceramic-pre-wax-prep-politur.png?v=1774730825"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-kratzer-polish-politur","title":"A1 \"Kratzer Polish\" Polish (+microfibre cloth)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"Kratzer Polish\" removes swirls instead of filling them\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"Kratzer Polish\"? A silicone-free hand polish from Dr. Wack for individual fine scratches in clear coat and hard plastic, headlights included. Not for matte paint, matte wraps, chrome trim or scratches that go down to the primer.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Kratzer Polish\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a scratch remover polish from Dr. Wack in Baar-Ebenhausen that works fine scratches out of clear coat and hard plastic surfaces in one step. The reason you can see a scratch like that at all isn't missing paint. The groove has rough, broken flanks, and they bounce incoming light back in every direction instead of one. Your eye reads that as a white line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThink frosted glass. The pane isn't dark, it's just rough, and that's exactly why you can't see through it. A fine scratch is the miniature version of that, a few microns wide. The abrasives in Kratzer Polish have a very uniform grain size and break down into smaller and smaller particles as you work. They smooth the flanks until the spot reflects light in a single, focused direction again. You'll notice it: the reflection runs across the spot without a break.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe alcohol test proved it.\u003c\/strong\u003e In 2022, AUTO BILD compared scratch removers and then wiped the polished areas down with an alcohol solution — in the scene, that step is called a panel wipe. Whatever had only been covered up with silicone showed up again. With Kratzer Polish, the gloss stayed put: 259.5 out of 300 points, grade 1.6, a win against nine competitors and Product of the Year.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e50 ml, not a gram of silicone.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone-free isn't a label here, it's the reason the result lasts. There's simply nothing that could slip into the groove and fake gloss. A second benefit, in case a panel gets resprayed soon: body shops keep silicone away from the car, because residue in fresh paint causes craters.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePaint, bumpers and headlights from one tube.\u003c\/strong\u003e On hard plastic, Dr. Wack approves three kinds of damage: yellowing, dullness and fine scratches, especially on polycarbonate headlight lenses. In practice, that means you don't need a second product for the cloudy headlight, or for the branch scratch on the door.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Use two cloths, not one. Dr. Wack includes the microfibre cloth specifically for buffing off; according to the instructions, you apply with a damp cloth. Do both with the same rag and at the end you'll drag the saturated side back over the freshly polished spot, turning gloss into smears. So use a second, slightly damp cloth to apply, and keep the included one dry for removal. What we see day-to-day, that's the one move that decides between clean and almost clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOnce it's dried on, Kratzer Polish stops working\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDirect sun and warm panels make the polish dry on before it has done its job. It needs a clean, dry, cool surface and a cloth that stays damp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eShake the tube, put a small amount on the damp cloth, then work it into the spot with pressure. Work in palm-sized sections rather than the whole door — Dr. Wack explicitly says to treat larger areas section by section.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs long as the cloth stays damp, the abrasives stay mobile. Once it dries, you're just pushing paste around the paint instead of removing material. Then add more product rather than rubbing longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWork a little beyond the scratch. Polish removes clear coat, and if you stop exactly on the line, you create a hard edge between treated and untreated paint. In raking light you'll then see a patch instead of a scratch. Feather out 2 to 3 cm beyond it with decreasing pressure and the transition disappears.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen let the spot dry on well and buff it to a high gloss with the included dry cloth. If the scratch is still there, repeat the pass. That's the intended route, not a sign that the tube is too weak. The first time, a door edge takes longer than you'd think; by the third time, you'll do it in passing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe formula is approved for machine polishers. That's worth it for a dull headlight or a bonnet scratched all over; for a single branch scratch, your hand is quicker than setting up the machine. If you see holograms in direct light afterwards — fine smears in the reflection — the pressure was too high or the pad too dry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-kratzer-polish-politur_anwendung.png?v=1787867848\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Kratzer Polish being squeezed from the tube onto a folded microfibre cloth\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eIf your fingernail catches, only a body shop can help\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA1 \"Kratzer Polish\" works in the clear coat, the top layer. Run your nail across the scratch, and if it catches, the groove goes deeper than any polish will ever reach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack is clear about this itself: scratches down to the primer can only be fixed with a paint repair at a body shop. The target is car-wash swirls, wipe marks, the branch scratch from the farm-track exit, the bag buckle on the driver's door. Anything you can't feel with your fingernail is a job for the tube.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo surfaces are completely off limits: matte paint and matte wraps. A polish whose purpose is gloss does exactly the wrong thing there, and you won't get it back. Nor does the product belong on chrome-plated plastic parts like badges, or on soft unpainted plastics in the cabin, such as the dashboard and door cards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe headlight deserves a line of its own, because two things get mixed up there. The lens is a type-approved polycarbonate part with a thin factory protective layer — the plastic's sunscreen. Take that off with sandpaper and you've modified an approved part, which the roadworthiness inspection treats as a major defect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA polish that just brightens the yellowed film on top of that layer is a different thing, and that's exactly what Dr. Wack approves the headlight for. If the protective layer is gone over a large area and the lens feels chalky, though, this tube won't bring it back to new either. Then it's a specialist with a fresh sealing layer, or a new part.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd a limit that isn't on any label: if the spot is still visible after the second pass, stop. Every further pass takes clear coat, and you won't get that back. A faintly visible scratch is a smaller problem than a panel with too-thin clear coat that'll be the first to start chalking in a few years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo the split is simple. If three specific spots bug you, grab A1 \"Kratzer Polish\". If the whole paint looks dull and grey, an \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur\"\u003eall-over polish with carnauba protection\u003c\/a\u003e is the right tool — 500 ml, meant for the whole car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003e50 millilitres is enough for spots. Not for panels.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFifty millilitres sit on the shelf next to a 500 millilitre all-over polish from the same range. The factor of ten isn't cost-cutting, it's a statement of what the tube is for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's for drivers who have their car under control and see an annoyance in two or three places: the wipe marks around the fuel flap, the pale line on the wing, the cloudy headlight. If you want to refresh the entire paint, 50 ml is the wrong size. That's what the big packs in our \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-autopolitur\"\u003ecar polishes\u003c\/a\u003e are for.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe tube's standing in the market speaks for itself, without any fuss. AUTO BILD test winner 2022; auto motor und sport already had it in first place out of eight back in 2014, with 122 out of 150 points. For a product that's had the same single job for years, that's the more interesting number than any superlative.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs long as the groove sits in the clear coat, it's a cosmetic problem and fixable by hand. Once it goes through base coat and primer, it becomes a substance problem, and the tube is out of its depth. That's why it makes sense to keep it in the car, not on the shelf: a spot you treat the day it happens is the easiest case this product will ever get.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd the point no tube tells you: after buffing off, that exact spot is the only one on the car with no protective film. Silicone-free also means nothing is left behind — no wax, no polymer, nothing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe freshly exposed clear coat picks up road film faster than the paint around it, and the spot soon stands out again, this time because it's duller than the rest of the door. Lay a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-care-und-protect-spruehversiegelung\"\u003espray sealant from the same range\u003c\/a\u003e straight over it. That's the difference between a scratch that's gone and a spot that stays gone.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"50 mL","offer_id":54707187712335,"sku":"D1-DRW-2714","price":14.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-kratzer-polish-politur.png?v=1787867688"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur","title":"A1 \"Polish \u0026 Wax\" Polish","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eWith A1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\", polishing and waxing happen in one pass\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\"? A hand polish from Dr. Wack with a carnauba share that reduces fine scratches and grey haze and brings the protection along in the same wipe. It has no business on matte paint, matte wraps or scratches that go down to the base coat.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the combination polish in Dr. Wack's A1 range. There are two halves in one bottle: abrasives that level the weathered top layer of the clear coat, and carnauba wax that lays itself over it in the same wipe. Of the range's three all-over polishes, A1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\" is the only one whose catalogue text starts with the protection technology instead of the grain.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eDoing it separately means touching every panel twice. First the polish, then the degreasing, then the wax. In real life, that second session regularly gets pushed back, and then a freshly corrected finish sits in the driveway without any protective layer at all. That's the worst in-between state there is: the old protection has been polished off, the new one never arrived.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAt Dr. Wack, the protective half goes by the name Carnauba Booster Technology — the same label the manufacturer gives its pure spray waxes. Carnauba is a hard plant wax that isn't just along for the ride here; it's the half that's in the product name. You'll notice it: the panel already shows beading after buffing off — round droplets instead of broad puddles — without you opening a second bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur_anwendung_3.jpg?v=1787867871\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Polish \u0026amp; Wax being worked into the bonnet of a black BMW with the sponge\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne pass instead of two.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack recommends two to three applications a year. If you do polish and wax separately, that means four to six rounds over the bodywork, not counting the degreasing in between. Here it stays at two to three afternoons, and the panel is finished once you've buffed off.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproved right up to gloss wraps.\u003c\/strong\u003e The approval list runs from metallic and solid paint through scratch-resistant and so-called nano clear coats to gloss wraps, from as-new to heavily weathered. Exactly two surfaces are excluded: matte paint and matte wraps. The wrap approval comes down to the solvent-free formula, which doesn't pull plasticisers out of the vinyl.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSame price per litre as its stronger sister.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polish \u0026amp; Wax and Speed Polish sit side by side on the shelf, 500 ml each, at an identical price per litre; ULTIMA comes in 250 ml and costs three times as much per litre. So between the first two you're not deciding on price, but on which half of the job should hit harder.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The polish's white colour is the price you pay for the single step. Whatever runs into a door shut, onto a rubber seal or into textured plastic dries pale there, and you can't just take it off with a degreaser as usual — the same wipe would strip the fresh wax off the panel too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSo keep a good 1 cm away from every gap and every seal, and run the sponge parallel to them rather than across. Anything that still gets in, pick it out with a dry detailing brush while the film is still wet. Otherwise we see those pale marks still sitting there half a year later at the next session.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003ch3\u003eNo panel wipe between polish and wax here\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eWith Polish \u0026amp; Wax, there's no in-between step. You dose onto the sponge, work it in, let the film dry through and remove it. Then the panel is done.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe prep is still the same as with any polish. A single iron particle still sitting in the clear coat after washing drags a circular trail across half the panel under the foam. Wash, dry, decon — meaning take off fallout and tar — and only then does the bottle come into play.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe dose goes on the applicator sponge, not the panel; from there you work it in with even pressure in circles. Dr. Wack explicitly says to keep the sponge loaded and top up as needed. Then the film has to dry through completely before a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-das-tuch-premium-mikrofaser-mikrofasertuch\"\u003epremium microfibre cloth\u003c\/a\u003e goes over it — the catalogue describes wiping off the excess as easy as dusting.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis is where the real difference from the two-stage route lies. If you do it separately, you wipe the panel with isopropanol between polish and wax — the scene calls it a panel wipe — and then lay the protection onto bare clear coat. With a combo product that step necessarily disappears, because the wax goes down in the same wipe, onto the polish residue rather than bare material.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThat's not a flaw, it's the design. Think of a 2-in-1 wall paint that does primer and top coat in one go: you save the second coat, but each layer ends up thinner than if applied separately. In practice here: you're buying speed and simplicity and paying with a few percent of durability.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867863\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Dr. Wack A1 Polish \u0026amp; Wax being dosed onto the orange polishing sponge\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eHandling earns the points, the finish doesn't\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eAt auto motor und sport in 2015, the scorecard showed exactly 76 out of 100 points and 3rd place out of 7. The product properties scored 28 out of 30; protection and gloss stayed mid-table.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eFour years earlier the picture looked different. In 2012, Auto Bild ranked the product 1st against four competitors and gave it full stars; ACE Lenkrad gave it 80 out of 100 points that same spring, also first place out of five. Both times the praise was for the same thing: handling and effortless buffing.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003ePut together, the two findings add up to a clear verdict. Where handling counts, this bottle is up front. Where durability and gloss depth go up against specialised competition, it lands in the upper midfield. That exact trade-off is built into every combo product — and the scores date from before the reworked Booster formula, so read them as a direction, not as today's measurement.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTwo limits are hard. On matte paint and matte wraps, both halves work against what the surface is for: the matte look comes from a rough microstructure that scatters incoming light, and that's exactly what grain and wax level out. What's left are greasy-looking islands no cleaner will get back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe second limit is in the 2026 catalogue by being absent. For Speed Polish and ULTIMA, Dr. Wack states carnauba protection of up to 3 months; for Polish \u0026amp; Wax, there's no such figure. If you want to plan in a reliable durability, don't extrapolate one — top up after a few washes instead.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eA third topic keeps coming up in user reports. The manufacturer explicitly approves the product for machine use too, but the thin consistency doesn't make life easy there: even at low speed, the pad flings product off. If you're working by machine, dose onto the pad, set it down on the panel and only then switch on.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867867\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Polishing sponge spreading A1 Polish \u0026amp; Wax on black clear coat near a panel gap\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch3\u003eIf you want durability, split polish and wax again\u003c\/h3\u003e\u003cp\u003eA1 \"Polish \u0026amp; Wax\" is built for the driver who works on the paint two or three times a year and wants peace and quiet afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe split is clear-cut. If you've got an afternoon, work by hand and want a refreshed, protected panel at the end, this bottle is the right one. If the last few percent of finish matter more to you than a second step, reach for the stronger \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-autopolitur\"\u003ecar polishes from Dr. Wack\u003c\/a\u003e and lay a separate wax over them afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eFor beginners, it's the friendliest of the four A1 polishes, because little can go wrong: no building up through several cutting stages, no pad changes, no choice between polish and protection. Reckon on a good two hours for a mid-size saloon the first time; by the third time it's an hour and a half. Taking longer at first is part of it and says nothing about you.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTwo groups are better off elsewhere. If you're running a ceramic coating, you'd polish it off — that calls for a maintenance shampoo, not an abrasive paste. And if you want the protection to last through winter, splitting the steps serves you better: Dr. Wack rates its pure spray waxes at up to 6 months, twice as long as the carnauba share of the sister polishes. For that case, a \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/autowachs\"\u003estandalone car wax\u003c\/a\u003e is the more honest tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eBy the way, Polish \u0026amp; Wax comes in exactly one pack size and exactly one concentration. No diluting, no second size, no choice between hand bottle and canister. Pick up the data sheet and you'll find 500 ml, solvent-free and an approval list — there are no other dials to turn, and with this product that's part of the concept.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe point that's on no label: Polish \u0026amp; Wax and Speed Polish cost exactly the same per litre, come in 500 ml packs and carry the same approval list. Putting two bottles at the same price per litre side by side on the shelf isn't pricing policy in Baar-Ebenhausen, it's a formulation decision. One puts the weight on the grain, the other on the wax.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eSo you're not choosing between cheap and expensive, but between the half that removes and the half that protects. For most cars that get attention twice a year, it's the second one.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707193282895,"sku":"D1-DRW-2640","price":20.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-polish-und-wax-politur.png?v=1787867309"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur","title":"A1 \"Speed Polish\" Car Polish","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"Speed Polish\" takes out the swirls and leaves carnauba behind\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"Speed Polish\"? An all-in-one car polish from Dr. Wack that removes fine scratches and leaves a layer of carnauba in the same pass. Not for matte paint, matte wraps or deep scratches that go down into the base coat.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Speed Polish\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a car polish from Dr. Wack that packs two steps into one bottle: abrasives take off the top, aged layer of clear coat, then carnauba wax settles over it. In the scene, a combo like that is called an all-in-one polish, AIO for short. The abrasives come from the same family used to finish precision mirrors for space research — high-purity aluminium oxide particles with a very tight grain size distribution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe trick is that these grains don't stay hard. They're so-called diminishing abrasives: under pressure and friction heat, they break at built-in fracture points into smaller and smaller fragments. Think of sandpaper that goes from 1500 to 5000 grit while you're working. For you, that means cut and finish are in the same product — no switching bottles or pads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe jump in gloss is measured, not claimed.\u003c\/strong\u003e In a series of reflectometer readings on weathered test paint, the gloss level rose from 71.0 to 88.6 in a single pass. Factory-fresh clear coat sits at 90 to 95. So with one bottle and one sponge, you get within a few points of a new car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe grey haze is measurably cut in half.\u003c\/strong\u003e The haze value — the diffuse scatter from thousands of micro-scratches — dropped from 42.4 to 22.5 in the same measurement. You'll notice it in the reflection: sharp edges again instead of a milky rim. On the pro scale, the cut sits at roughly 2.5 to 3.5 out of 10 — enough for swirls, not enough for deep scratches.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproved on gloss wraps and scratch-resistant clear coat too.\u003c\/strong\u003e Metallic, solid, so-called nano paints, highly cross-linked scratch-resistant clear coats and gloss wraps are all on the approval list — the last one is rare in this price bracket. According to Dr. Wack, the carnauba film protects for up to three months.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The most common mistake isn't the amount, it's the area. If you polish the whole bonnet in one go, you'll find a dusty crust at the first corner while the last one is still wet and shiny. Work in sections of about half a square metre and start each new pass at the wet edge. Above 25 °C or in the sun, halve the sections again. What we see day-to-day, that's the difference between five and twenty minutes of buffing off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePressure does the polishing. Not dwell time.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUnlike a cleaner, it's not time doing the work here, it's your hand. Only pressure breaks the abrasive grains down and gets the polishing going in the first place.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDecon comes first, or the sponge just grinds the dirt in. Wash, dry, take off fallout and tar, and if the paint still feels gritty after washing, clay it. A single embedded iron particle under the sponge drags round pigtails into the clear coat. That damage is worse than any scratch you were trying to polish out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen shake the bottle and put the product on the dry \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-der-politur-schwamm-politur\"\u003epolishing sponge\u003c\/a\u003e, not on the paint. Work in small circles in a cross-hatch and keep the sponge well loaded, or the grains run without a lubricating film. Dr. Wack puts it unusually bluntly: the more pressure, the better the result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen let it flash off briefly — don't let it cure. Remove with microfibre, never with a cotton cloth or cotton wool; both push the wax residue around rather than picking it up. Flip the cloth often, or you'll spread on the second half what you picked up on the first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe sponge has more say in this than most people expect. A soft applicator mostly spreads wax; a medium-firm foam transfers the pressure all the way to the grains. If one pass leaves you disappointed, it's often not that you polished too little, but that you worked through a pad that's too soft.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA dual-action machine with a medium foam pad gets you further than working by hand, because the machine holds constant pressure for twenty minutes, which no arm can. By hand you replace speed with muscle, and the result slides a little from removed towards filled. What we see day-to-day, a compact car by hand uses about a third of the 500 ml bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867885\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Speed Polish being squeezed from the bottle onto the orange polishing sponge\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe carnauba fills what the grains don't remove\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePart of the visible scratch removal is masking. The wax settles into valleys the abrasives haven't levelled and takes away their shadow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCarnauba is the hardest known natural wax, with a melting point of 82 to 86 °C, and it refracts light unusually strongly. That's exactly what makes it a good filler: whatever it fills no longer casts a shadow, and the paint looks smoother than it would after abrasion alone. Day to day, that means a deep, warm gloss on dark colours — and up to three months of durability without sealing separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's not a con, it's how every all-in-one polish is built. You just need to know what happens when the wax goes. After a few washes with a strong alkaline pre-wash, the medium-depth scratch is back. That's where the harsh reviews you read about AIO products come from: the user expected removed and got filled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo limits are absolute. On matte paint and matte wraps, the grains polish spots smooth and the wax fills them — you end up with greasy-looking shiny patches that only a respray will fix. And chrome trim and rough, unpainted plastics stay off limits, because the white particles settle into the pores there and are hard to get back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe bottle says solvent-free, and that's more precise than it sounds. It means no aggressive aromatic solvents — the kind that pull plasticisers out of a wrap and leave it brittle and yellowed. There is a low-odour, de-aromatised carrier oil in there, otherwise the paste would dry out on the paint instantly and the grains would have no lubricating film. For you, that means you can work a gloss wrap on the roof exactly like the panel next to it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat gives you a clear split. If you want to take swirls, haze and car-wash scratches off the whole body and have the protection come along for the ride, Speed Polish is the right call. If one single deep scratch bothers you, or the result has to hold up after ten washes, that's a job for one of the more abrasive \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-a1-politur\"\u003epolishes in the A1 range\u003c\/a\u003e, which work without wax and don't bring any protection with them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur_anwendung_3.jpg?v=1787867893\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Polishing sponge with A1 Speed Polish on the black bonnet of a BMW\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolishing twice a year is plenty for this paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor A1 \"Speed Polish\", Dr. Wack recommends two to three passes a year. That's spot on for the driver who looks after their car but doesn't want to block out a two-stage afternoon.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe get questions about it in two waves: in April, once winter's grit and road salt have been washed off, and at the end of August, when the low evening sun makes the swirls visible in the first place. That matches search behaviour — interest in polishing a car peaks in August and is currently running about 18 percent above the yearly average.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo the 500 ml covers those two to three passes a year several times over. Who it's not the right pick for: anyone who wants everything at once, once a year — weathered bumper, cloudy headlight and deep scratches on the door edge. That takes individual steps and usually a machine. And anyone already running a ceramic coating — you'd polish it right off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat the maths works out for the normal case was confirmed by GTÜ in 2017, comparing nine car polishes: Speed Polish came out as test winner, specifically praised for its protection, the deep gloss with visibly refreshed colour and residue-free buffing. Exactly the three points where an AIO product usually cuts corners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to stretch the durability, follow up the buff-off with a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-speed-wax-plus-3-spruehwachs\"\u003espray wax\u003c\/a\u003e. This pure sealant has no abrasive content and extends protection from the three-month window towards six. It doesn't attack the freshly laid carnauba — it sits on top of it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd here's the bit no label tells you: getting from 71.0 to 88.6 gloss costs you an afternoon, a bottle and a sponge. The last few points up to new-car level at 90 to 95 cost a machine, three pads, two products and a whole day. Dr. Wack makes a product in Baar-Ebenhausen that nails the first part and honestly bows out of the second. That self-restraint is exactly what makes it the right tool for most cars — and the wrong one for paint fanatics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur_anwendung_2.jpg?v=1787867889\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"Bottle of A1 Speed Polish next to the polishing sponge after buffing off\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707197051215,"sku":"D1-DRW-2610","price":20.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-speed-polish-autopolitur.png?v=1787867345"},{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-ultima-show-und-shine-polish-politur","title":"A1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026 Shine Polish\" Polish","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish\" takes out holograms without putting new ones in\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is A1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish\"? The strongest hand polish in Dr. Wack's A1 range, built on synthetic abrasives from wafer manufacturing, with carnauba protection for up to three months. Not for matte paint, matte wraps, chrome-plated plastic parts or anything that goes deeper than the clear coat.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is a polish from Dr. Wack in Baar-Ebenhausen that removes fine scratches and weathered paint instead of filling them. The same abrasives are otherwise used to level silicon wafers in microchip production. There, the result isn't decided by how hard a grain is, but by how identical it is to the grain next to it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat's exactly what sets it apart from an ordinary polish. Size, shape and hardness are identical across the whole batch, and as you work, the grains break down evenly into the nano range. In a normal compound the grain size varies, and the few oversized outliers are what put in the new fine scratches you then have to cover up again. For you, that means what you see after buffing off is the actual result, not a layer sitting on top of it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA grain that doesn't go rogue.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dr. Wack uses synthetic abrasives like the ones used to polish wafers in microchip manufacturing, and explicitly targets holograms and car-wash scratches without re-marring. The cutting stage finishes down to a gloss on its own, so you don't switch to a second, finer compound. Anything deeper than a finishing polish removes stays out of scope — the clear coat on top is only 30 to 60 microns thick.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e3rd place out of nine, measured after degreasing.\u003c\/strong\u003e In 2020, KÜS and AUTO BILD tested nine premium polishes on black panels, three quarters of the surface artificially weathered down to a gloss level of 60, the untreated quarter at 90. Application was five grams of product, 1.5 kilograms of pressure and five passes in a cross-hatch. Before the final rating, the lab degreased with isopropanol so waxes couldn't hide any scratches. The result: 238 out of 300 points.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree months of protection instead of bare paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e In the same step, carnauba wax lays a film on the freshly polished paint, which Dr. Wack rates at up to three months. The manufacturer recommends two to three applications a year, and the 250 ml covers that several times over. Day to day, that means you don't have to seal the same afternoon just so the panel isn't left unprotected.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Don't judge the result in daylight. Diffuse light irons out holograms and haze visually — exactly the defects you're polishing against. Grab an LED spot light, hold it low across the panel and leave a palm-sized patch unpolished next to it. Only that comparison tells you whether the first pass was enough. We often see a second pass even though the first one had already done the job, and every pass costs 0.5 to 5 microns of clear coat that you'll never get back.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWith ULTIMA, the whole door is one section\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe instructions call for entire body panels in one go, and that's not about convenience — it follows directly from how this polish works.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWashing comes first. Unwashed paint carries loose grit, and it travels under the sponge across the whole panel. If the paint still feels gritty after drying, or there are little brown specks in the white, take the fallout off first. Then work in the shade on a cool panel, never on hot paint in the sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 250 ml bottle comes with a microfibre cloth; the sponge isn't included. Apply to the dry \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-der-politur-schwamm-politur\"\u003epolishing sponge\u003c\/a\u003e, not the paint, and keep the sponge loaded for the whole section. If it runs dry, the grain loses its lubricating film and each pass turns into friction with no effect. On pressure, the manufacturer is blunter than most: more pressure going in, better result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThen comes the step that sets this polish apart from most. The film has to dry completely before the cloth goes over it, and according to Dr. Wack it then comes off as easily as dusting. Since there's no wet edge that can flash off too early, your working unit isn't half a square metre but the whole panel: door, wing, bonnet in one go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the scene, a polish that's meant to dry on raises a few eyebrows. That objection mixes up two different things. The cutting happens under your hand, while you're rubbing; the drying time afterwards just makes removal easy. Which of the two did the work on your car is answered by the spot-light test above, on your own paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-ultima-show-und-shine-polish-politur_anwendung.jpg?v=1787867924\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish being worked into the black bonnet next to the headlight\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhat ULTIMA doesn't remove, a machine won't either\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith this polish, a machine polisher is a speed tool, not a power tool. It covers more area per hour, but it won't take a single extra micron out of the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ceiling is in the grain, not in your arm. Depending on technique, a finishing polish removes around 0.5 to 5 microns of clear coat, a cutting compound on a rotary 3 to 8. ULTIMA belongs in the first group, even applied by machine. Anything deeper stays put and needs its own cutting step, a suitable pad and, if in doubt, a paint depth gauge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the machine, one rule applies that barely matters by hand: work controlled, small sections, no heat build-up. Heat under the pad is the fastest route to exactly the holograms you're polishing against. On dark metallic, a rotary spinning too fast inflicts the damage the product is then supposed to take away again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTwo surfaces are off limits, full stop. On matte paint and matte wraps, grain and wax make the surface glossy, and there that's a write-off, not a work in progress. Chrome-plated plastic parts and badges are also left out. If polish ends up in rough, unpainted plastic, get it back out with a trim dressing before it dries white in there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat leaves the forum accusation that whatever disappears here is just filled and comes back after a few washes. Worth taking seriously, because there's carnauba in the product. The lab provides the solid counter-check: KÜS degreases the panels before the final rating to strip off waxes and silicones, and after that the result still landed in 3rd place out of nine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat gives you a clear split. If the paint is basically sound and it's holograms, haze and car-wash scratches that bug you, ULTIMA is the tool. If the whole car is dull and the price per litre matters, reach for the 500 ml all-over polish from the \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/dr-wack-a1-politur\"\u003eA1 range of polishes and paint cleaners\u003c\/a\u003e. And if the scratch goes through the clear coat, neither will help — that's a job for the body shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDark paint is where ULTIMA shows what it's built for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHolograms and haze, the milky film over the reflection, show up first on black and dark metallic — and that's exactly where removed and covered-up go their separate ways.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's no coincidence that KÜS tests on black panels. Three quarters of the surface had been weathered down to a gloss level of 60, while the untreated quarter sat at 90 — a contrast you simply don't see on light silver. If you drive a dark car, though, you see it every Sunday on the driveway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat makes \u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"ULTIMA Show \u0026amp; Shine Polish\"\u003c\/strong\u003e the product for paint that's basically fine but missing the last few percent: after a machine session that left holograms in direct light, before a sale, before a meet, after a winter of weekly car washes. If you want to rescue a completely weathered car once a year, though, you need a dedicated cutting step and a machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePer litre, the 250 ml costs a good three times as much as the 500 ml all-over polish from the same range. What you get for that isn't more product, it's a different grain. Dr. Wack recommends two to three passes a year, and the bottle covers that several times over — as long as you remove it with a deep-pile \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-das-tuch-premium-mikrofaser-mikrofasertuch\"\u003epremium microfibre cloth\u003c\/a\u003e and don't top up, because a saturated cloth won't pick anything up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd here's the point no label does the maths on: your clear coat is a bank account you can only withdraw from. There are 30 to 60 microns in it, and if you want to keep its protection, you shouldn't take more than 10 to 15 of them off over the car's entire life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt 0.5 to 5 microns per pass, that's around thirty polishes or three, depending on how aggressive you go. So the interesting question isn't which polish removes the most, but which removes the least and still delivers. That's exactly the logic behind the uniform grains: a grain that doesn't go rogue doesn't force you to level the same panel a second time.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":54707199279439,"sku":"D1-DRW-2660","price":30.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-ultima-show-und-shine-polish-politur.png?v=1787867381"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-the-finisher-automotive-shinespeedpolish-waxpolitur","title":"THE FINISHER \"ShineSpeedPolish\" Wax Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eTHE FINISHER × Koch-Chemie \"ShineSpeedPolish\" — wax polish for deep gloss in one step\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does ShineSpeedPolish do? — This wax polish cleans, polishes and protects in a single pass: it lifts light hazing, visually masks micro-scratches, brings up a rich, deep gloss and leaves a smooth, water-repellent wax film – the go-to quick finish after a wash.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTHE FINISHER ShineSpeedPolish Wax Polish\u003c\/strong\u003e is your efficient gloss booster for well-kept, lightly swirled paint. It pulls out light hazing, fills micro-defects optically and lays down a protective wax layer to finish. Perfect when you want a high-end finish fast after a hand wash – without going for a full correction. In the system it sits between gentle gloss care and real defect correction: for more cut you reach for RoughCut\/FineCut or a one-step alternative; as a topper, BodyGuard or JustPerfect fits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e3-in-1 performance: \u003c\/strong\u003elight defect removal, visible deep gloss and a protective wax film in one pass – time-saving and repeatable.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSmooth finish: \u003c\/strong\u003ewipes off easily, calm reflections with no fogging; spot on for dark colours and daily drivers.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSystem-friendly:\u003c\/strong\u003e plays nicely with TropicSnow\/MagicShampoo in prep and can be topped up with BodyGuard\/JustPerfect when needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eWax polish – gloss, fill \u0026amp; protection in one\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWax polish\u003c\/strong\u003e means this: mild abrasives even out light wash marks, while nourishing components smooth the micro-structure and a wax-based protective film flashes off. THE FINISHER ShineSpeedPolish Wax Polish delivers exactly that trio in one stable, easy-working step. The gloss reads deep and \"calm\", because the fill takes the visual stress off micro-scratches. The wax film that forms backs up beading\/sheeting and makes the next clean easier – with no greasy look. Don't use it on matte paint\/wraps, since it deliberately fires up the gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eFinish polish – application, pad choice \u0026amp; machine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFinish polish\u003c\/strong\u003e works best on cool, clean paint. After a pre-wash (TropicSnow) and hand wash (MagicShampoo) you work panel by panel: a few drops on a soft to medium foam pad, run a dual-action in a crosshatch pattern until the film goes clear, then buff off the residue completely. On delicate clear coats start soft; more \"bite\" comes from pad hardness or slowly stepping up the machine settings. Treat edges and fresh paintwork carefully, and always lay down a test spot. Keep it off glass, plastics and rubber.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eOne-step result – durability, compatibility \u0026amp; limits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOne-step result\u003c\/strong\u003e means a visible step up in a short time with everyday protection. The wax component lasts weeks depending on use, and after the next wash you can top it up easily with BodyGuard or quickly \"pop\" it with JustPerfect. Existing waxes\/sealants aren't stripped aggressively, they're supported optically. Limits: with clear scratches, holograms or oxidation you need the correction stages RoughCut\/FineCut or a dedicated one-step polish. Don't polish on PPF or matte surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon questions about THE FINISHER × Koch-Chemie \"ShineSpeedPolish\" — wax polish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDoes ShineSpeedPolish replace a full detail?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNo. It's ideal for a fast lift and protection. For visible defects or holograms, go in first with RoughCut\/FineCut or a stronger one-step polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eHow do I prep the paint properly?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePre-clean with TropicSnow, hand wash with MagicShampoo, dry the paintwork. Then polish and buff the residue off completely. Mask or avoid plastic and rubber trim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eCan I top it with anything afterwards?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYes. For more hydrophobicity and a wet look, spray BodyGuard after the next wash or use JustPerfect in between. Both round off the wax polish nicely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eHow often should I use it?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs often as you want to refresh the gloss. On daily drivers, every few months is plenty; maintenance washes and an optional topper keep the look stable in between.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eGood for all paint?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor conventional, glossy clear coats, yes. Not on matte paint\/wraps and not on PPF. Always work in the shade and avoid hot surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003csmall\u003eLast updated: 31\/10\/2025 — Author: Daniel (Detailing1)\u003c\/small\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie × THE FINISHER","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":56300004802895,"sku":"D1-KCX-77711-250ML-01","price":9.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-the-finisher-shinespeedpolish-waxpolitur_250ml_77711-250ML-01.png?v=1761911576"},{"product_id":"koch-chemie-the-finisher-automotive-powerspeedpolish-onesteppolitur","title":"THE FINISHER \"PowerSpeedPolish\" OneStepPolish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eTHE FINISHER × Koch-Chemie „PowerSpeedPolish“ — one-step polish for real correction \u0026amp; high gloss\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhen do I reach for PowerSpeedPolish? — When you want to visibly knock back wash marks, hazing and lighter defects in a single pass, and land a high-gloss, hologram-free finish at the same time. The ideal one-step for daily drivers after a proper pre-wash and dry.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTHE FINISHER PowerSpeedPolish one-step polish\u003c\/strong\u003e pairs modern cut with a safe finish in a single step. Micro-abrasives cut defects back in a controlled way, fine-oil carriers level out the paint and wipe off easily – no dust storms, no sticky residue. Perfect for cars with typical wash marks, when time is tight but the result still needs to look „detailed“. In the workflow, PowerSpeedPolish sits alongside the pure finish wax polish (ShineSpeedPolish). After that you top it off with JustPerfect (hydrophobics) depending on the look you're after, or leave the pure, crisp finish as it is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStrong one-step:\u003c\/strong\u003e noticeable defect reduction + a high-gloss, calm paint surface in one pass – ideal for daily drivers and sale prep.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSafe \u0026amp; efficient: \u003c\/strong\u003elong working time, low-dust use, clean wipe-off; keeps hologram risk down on common clear coats.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSystem-friendly\u003c\/strong\u003e: slots in behind TropicSnow \u0026amp; MagicShampoo; you can „pop“ it with JustPerfect whenever you like.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eOne-step polish – cut, gloss \u0026amp; finish in balance\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOne-step polish\u003c\/strong\u003e means cutting power and finishing behaviour are balanced so you get a visible update after a single pass. THE FINISHER PowerSpeedPolish one-step polish runs finely tuned micro-abrasives that bite early and finish very cleanly as they break down. That's how car-wash haze, light swirls and grey hazing visibly disappear, without the finish going „milky“. The low-oil matrix wipes off fully and gives a clear, crisp reflection – the ideal base to lay down protection afterwards or show off the pure finish. On soft paints the polish stays gentle; on medium-hard paints it delivers the best balance of defect removal and brilliance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eDA polishing – pad choice, pressure \u0026amp; crosshatch for repeatable results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDA polishing\u003c\/strong\u003e brings out the strengths of THE FINISHER PowerSpeedPolish one-step polish: work in the shade, cool surface, clean pads. Start with a medium-hard foam pad; step up to a firmer pad if the defects are heavier, or drop back to a soft finishing pad on delicate paints. Set 3–4 pea-sized drops, spread on a low speed, then polish in an even crosshatch with moderate pressure until the film goes clear and thin. At the end, ease off pressure and stroke speed slightly to pull that last touch „to gloss“. Take edges, corners and fresh paint gently; masking off sensitive plastics saves you rework. Wipe residue off completely with a fresh, dense-nap microfibre – and there's your clean one-step result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHolograms, paint hardness \u0026amp; limits – when to top up, when to split\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHolograms\u003c\/strong\u003e are rare with the right pad and a DA, but they can show on extremely soft or gummy clear coats. Then a quick „jeweling“ pass with a soft pad and minimal product sorts it out. Very hard paints or deeper defects sometimes need more bite: here it pays to run a first, quick correction set with RoughCut, followed by a fast refining pass with PowerSpeedPolish. For pure gloss refresh with no real cut, ShineSpeedPolish is enough. Keep it off matte paint\/PPF – a polish would gloss up the matte level. After the one-step, your goal decides: maximum everyday protection with a sealant straight after wiping down, show finish, or a quick care refresh in between with JustPerfect after the next wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon questions about THE FINISHER × Koch-Chemie „PowerSpeedPolish“ — one-step polish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDoes PowerSpeedPolish replace a multi-stage correction?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor a lot of daily drivers, yes. But deep scratches, heavy holograms or oxidation still need prep work with RoughCut\/FineCut. PowerSpeedPolish is the strong middle ground between correction and finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eWhich machine do I use?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA DA polisher gives the best, hologram-free finish. Only work rotaries if you're experienced, and always „relieve“ with a finishing pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDoes the polish dust?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLow-dust with fresh pads, a moderate amount of product and realistic strokes. Too much product, overloaded pads or heat feed the dust – blow out\/swap pads regularly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eDoes it leave protection behind?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt's primarily a correction\/finish polish. For durable everyday protection we recommend BodyGuard straight after. For quick gloss between washes: JustPerfect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003eWhich surfaces should I avoid?\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMatte paints\/wraps, textured plastics, PPF with a matte surface. Treat edges, fresh paint and sensitive zones carefully, keep it off glass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003csmall\u003eLast updated: 31\/10\/2025 — Author: Daniel (Detailing1)\u003c\/small\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Koch-Chemie × THE FINISHER","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":56300095865167,"sku":"D1-KCX-77715-250ML-01","price":20.99,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/koch-chemie-the-finisher-powerspeedpolish-onesteppolitur_250ml_77715-250ML-01.png?v=1761911764"},{"product_id":"flex-1-step-politur-pcm-1-step","title":"1-Step Polish \"PC-M\" 1-Step (Cut 3 \/ Gloss 4)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFLEX 1-Step Polish PC-M – Efficient paint correction with a gloss finish in a single polishing step\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eThe FLEX 1-Step Polish PC-M is a medium-strength all-in-one polish for paint refinishing that pulls out light to moderate scratches, visibly wakes the paint back up, and at the same time leaves a glossy protective film thanks to its carnauba wax content – all in a single pass.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFLEX 1-Step Polish PC-M\u003c\/strong\u003e is the smart choice if you want to sort out paint defects efficiently and land a glossy finish at the same time. This modern one-step polish blends moderate cut with a clear gloss boost and a built-in protective film. That's exactly what makes it a strong tool for quick jobs, used-car reconditioning, or the regular upkeep of demanding car paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn pro detailing it's not just about maximum correction – it's about efficiency too. A one-step polish like the PC-M shaves off working time without the result taking a hit. Light to moderate scratches, the usual car-wash marks, or dull patches of paint come back visibly better in one single pass. At the same time, quality carnauba wax content leaves a protective surface with deep, intense gloss and clean water beading.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEfficient 1-step work for daily use and pro detailing\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe polish pairs moderate cut with finishing properties. That way the usual wear marks like fine scratches or car-wash micro-swirls get knocked back in a single pass – ideal for quick, cost-effective jobs.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCarnauba wax for gloss and temporary paint protection\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe built-in carnauba content delivers a visible gloss boost and a hydrophobic surface once you're done polishing. The paint looks richer, throws light back harder, and shows a clean, crisp finish.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow-dust to work with and a nice feel on the panel\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe formula runs steady, kicks up little polishing dust, and wipes off with no fuss. That makes longer polishing sessions easier and keeps the work controlled and professional.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e1-step polish for moderate scratches and quick paint refinishing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e1-step polish\u003c\/strong\u003e is one of the most efficient methods in modern car detailing. Instead of running several polishing stages back to back – say heavy cut, medium cut and finish – a one-step polish rolls several jobs into one product. That's exactly where the FLEX PC-M sits: it brings enough cut to visibly knock back light to moderate paint defects, while at the same time building a clear gloss boost.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe typical use cases are cars in moderate condition. Think fine car-wash scratches, light swirls, or dull paint areas caused by weather or the wrong care routine. In cases like that a multi-stage polish would be technically possible, but often makes no economic sense. A one-step polish saves time, uses less product, and still delivers a convincing look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis approach is hugely popular for used-car prep or regular car care in particular. Cars get visibly freshened up without needing several polishing stages. The paint looks clearer, reflections get sharper, and small defects stand out far less. That's exactly why a 1-step polish counts as the perfect balance between correction power and efficiency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eDual-action polisher, polishing pad and getting the most out of it\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003edual-action polisher\u003c\/strong\u003e gives its best performance paired with the right polish-and-pad match. For the FLEX PC-M, a forced-rotation dual-action machine with a medium-hard polishing foam works especially well – for example the purple universal pad from the FLEX polishing system. That combo gives you even defect correction while keeping the machine steady in hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen it comes to the polishing itself, clean prep is the key. The paint should be washed thoroughly, decontaminated, and ideally clayed first. That way the polish can work straight on the paint without embedded particles cutting fresh scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou then spread the polish sparingly on the pad and work it at moderate speed. Thanks to the balanced abrasive structure the PC-M can run for a long time without drying out fast. That makes for an even polishing result and cuts down the risk of holograms. Once you've polished it off, you're left with a clearly glossy surface that lifts off effortlessly with a quality microfibre cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn a pro workflow, this kind of polish often gets paired with more care products. After polishing you can lay down a quality ceramic sealant or a paint-protection product from our range for long-term protection. For perfect results it's also worth pairing it with quality polishing pads and extra-soft microfibre cloths from the car-care accessories category.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eGloss finish, colour revival and paint protection from carnauba wax\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne particular upside of the \u003cstrong\u003ecarnauba wax\u003c\/strong\u003e formula lies in what it does to the paint optically. While the abrasives smooth out small defects and refine the surface, a fine protective film settles over the paint once you've polished it off. This film deepens the gloss and makes colours look visibly richer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCarnauba is one of the finest natural waxes in car care. It's harvested from the leaves of the Brazilian carnauba palm and is known for its intense gloss. Used in polishes, it makes sure the paint doesn't just feel smooth after correction, but also picks up a warm, deep finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn top of that you get a hydrophobic effect on the surface. Water beads off more easily and dirt clings less to the paint. That keeps the car clean for longer and makes the later wash easier. This combo of correction, gloss boost and protection makes the PC-M a particularly versatile answer for plenty of refinishing situations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhether it's the quick job on a daily driver, freshening up a used car, or an efficient in-between step in pro paint care – a quality one-step polish delivers exactly the balance of finish quality and time saved that modern car care asks for.\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"FLEX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":57225913467215,"sku":"D1-FLEX-532415","price":15.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57225913499983,"sku":"D1-FLEX-532414","price":57.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/flex-1-step-politur-pcm-1-step.png?v=1773352567"},{"product_id":"flex-cut-politur-pcc-2-step","title":"Cut Polish \"PC-C\" 2-Step (Cut 5 \/ Gloss 2)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFLEX Cut Polish PC-C – Maximum defect correction for the first step of professional paint correction\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eThe FLEX Cut Polish PC-C is a heavy-hitting cutting polish for the first pass in a 2-Step system. It pulls medium to heavier paint defects out fast and leaves the surface ready for a finishing polish and maximum gloss.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFLEX Cut Polish PC-C\u003c\/strong\u003e is the no-compromise answer when you want to correct paint defects properly. As a classic heavy-cut polish it is step one in a professional 2-Step polishing system. With a cut rating of 5 and a gloss value of 2 it is built to knock back scratches, oxidation and clearly visible wear, and to prep the paint for the next polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGood paint correction always starts with reading the defects. When the paint shows deeper wash marks, swirls or dull patches, a finishing polish on its own will not get you there. That is where a strong cut polish earns its keep: it takes off a minimal amount of material, levels the surface and lays the groundwork for a clean finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSerious cutting power for visible paint correction\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe PC-C is built to knock back medium to heavier defects reliably. Typical paint problems like swirls, scratches or dull patches are clearly reduced and the surface comes out evenly prepped.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe right base for the second polishing step\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAs the classic step 1 in the 2-Step system it leaves an even surface that you then refine with a finishing polish. What you get is a clear high-gloss finish with barely a hologram in it.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStable working time and controlled cutting behaviour\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eModern abrasive technology gives you an even polishing pattern and controlled defect correction. That means precise work – on dual action and rotary machines alike.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eHeavy cut polish for scratch removal and paint defect correction\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eheavy cut polish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the decisive first step in any serious paint correction. Where lighter polishes mainly chase gloss, a cut polish goes after the defects themselves. That is exactly what FLEX built the PC-C for: strong abrasives that visibly reduce scratches, swirls and oxidised paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThose abrasives work in a controlled way on the paint. During the pass they level the top layer of clear coat by a fraction and take the sharp edges off the scratches. Light then reflects evenly again, the scratches disappear optically and the paint reads clear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTypical jobs are cars whose paint has taken a beating: automatic car wash marks, weathering, dull panels or older paintwork with obvious wear. A pure gloss polish will not cut it there – only real cutting power lays the base for a genuinely high-end result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eDual action polisher and pad for maximum defect correction\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou get the best out of it with a \u003cstrong\u003edual action polisher\u003c\/strong\u003e and a matching cutting pad. A heavy-cut polish works especially well with firmer foam pads or dedicated microfibre pads that add to the cut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe combination of machine, pad and polish is what decides the outcome. A firm foam pad raises the mechanical bite, while a forced-rotation dual action machine keeps the correction even across the panel. That lets you work larger areas efficiently without laying holograms into the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePrep the paint properly before you start. A thorough pre-wash, chemical decontamination and a pass with a clay bar make sure the polish is working on the paint and nothing else. Otherwise you drag dirt particles around and put fresh scratches in while you polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the cutting step a finishing polish usually follows to refine the paint further. You will find perfectly matched finishing polishes in our range, along with quality polishing pads and extra-soft microfibre cloths for a clean wipe-down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e2-Step polishing system for professional paint correction\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA \u003cstrong\u003e2-Step polishing system\u003c\/strong\u003e is one of the most effective methods in modern paint correction. The job is split into two clearly defined stages: first the defect correction with a strong cut polish, then the surface is brought to a high gloss with a finer finishing polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat approach has several advantages. Step one is fully focused on removing scratches, step two on pulling out maximum gloss. The result is a much clearer paint finish with sharp reflections and real optical depth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn heavily used paint this two-stage process makes all the difference. A one-step polish can take out light defects, but it will not match the correction of a real 2-Step. That is why professional detailers reach for this method whenever the result has to be as close to perfect as possible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith the FLEX Cut Polish PC-C you have exactly the right tool for that first, decisive polishing step. It visibly removes defects, prepares the paint for the next stage and lays the groundwork for a deep, clear finish.\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"FLEX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":57225952198991,"sku":"D1-FLEX-532413","price":16.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57225952231759,"sku":"D1-FLEX-532412","price":59.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/flex-cut-politur-pcc-2-step.png?v=1773353576"},{"product_id":"flex-finish-politur-pcf-2-step","title":"Finish Polish \"PC-F\" 2-Step (Cut 2 \/ Gloss 5)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFLEX Finish Polish PC-F – high-gloss finish for the perfect second step of your paint correction\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eThe FLEX Finish Polish PC-F is a fine high-gloss polish for step two of the 2-Step system. It clears light polishing marks and holograms, maxes out paint gloss and leaves a clear, deep finish on modern automotive paint.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFLEX Finish Polish PC-F\u003c\/strong\u003e is the final stage of a professional paint correction. Once the first polishing step has pulled out scratches and heavier defects, this finely tuned finish polish brings maximum clarity, depth and mirror gloss to the paint. With Cut 2 for abrasive power and a gloss rating of 5, it is built to refine the very last polishing marks and visibly perfect the finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional detailing, the last polishing step often decides how the whole job reads. Only a proper finish polish brings out the full brilliance of the paint. The surface gets smoother still, light reflects more evenly, and the paint looks noticeably clearer and deeper. That is exactly why a finish polish is the make-or-break part of a good 2-Step polishing system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum depth of gloss for a flawless paint finish\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFinely tuned abrasives refine the paint surface and leave a clear, high-gloss finish. Reflections look sharper and colours come across far more intense.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eClears holograms and fine polishing marks\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eA cut polish can leave light polishing marks behind. The finish polish smooths those structures out and gets you an even, hologram-free paint surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe perfect second step in the 2-Step polishing system\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAs step 2 after a cut polish, the PC-F dials in the result and lifts the optical quality of the paint to a much higher level.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eFinish polish for high gloss, clarity and hologram-free paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003efinish polish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the step that decides it when you are after maximum optical perfection. A cut polish mainly pulls out scratches, while a finish polish concentrates on refining the surface. That is where the FLEX PC-F plays its strength: extremely fine abrasives that smooth out the smallest polishing marks and refine the paint structure even further.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat you get is a surface that reflects light really evenly. That is where the high-gloss look you know from professional detailing work comes from. Reflections come across cleaner, colours run deeper, and the paint simply reads a class above.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn dark colours the difference jumps out. Black or very dark paint picks up even the finest polishing marks. A good finish polish evens the surface out completely here, so the paint stays uniform and hologram-free under direct light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eDual action polisher and soft pads for a proper refinement\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou get the best out of it with a \u003cstrong\u003edual action polisher\u003c\/strong\u003e and soft or medium-soft finishing pads. That combination keeps mechanical stress on the paint low and still lets you refine the surface precisely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA cut polish is usually run on firmer pads, while a finish polish works with much softer foam. Cutting action drops back in a controlled way and the whole focus shifts to refining the finish. On sensitive or dark paint especially, this combo gives you an even result with no visible polishing marks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you polish, spread the product evenly across the pad and work it at moderate speed. Its fine structure lets you work the PC-F out under control, and that is what gives you a very clear, even finish. Once you are done, the polishing film wipes off easily with a good microfibre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional detailing this step usually comes right before a paint protection system goes on. Ceramic coating, paint sealant or premium wax – a perfectly polished surface is what lets protection products bond properly and show their full optical effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003e2-Step polishing system for maximum paint refinement\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e2-Step polishing system\u003c\/strong\u003e is one of the most popular methods in professional paint correction. The polishing job is split into two clearly defined steps: defect correction first with a strong cut polish, then the paint is refined with a finish polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis two-stage approach gets you noticeably better results than a straight one-step. The first step knocks back scratches and defects, the second focuses purely on optical refinement. What comes out is a very clear finish with an intense mirror effect and a lot of colour depth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe FLEX Finish Polish PC-F was developed for exactly that second step. It refines the paint you have already corrected, clears the finest polishing marks and maxes out the gloss. That is when the full potential of the paint correction shows – with a deep, clear finish that stays even and high-end even under harsh light.\u003cstrong\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"FLEX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":57225967567183,"sku":"D1-FLEX-532417","price":14.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57225967599951,"sku":"D1-FLEX-532416","price":55.89,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/flex-finish-politur-pcf-2-step.png?v=1773354066"},{"product_id":"gyeon-q2m-compound-plus-redefined-heavy-cut-lackpolitur","title":"Q²M Compound+ (Plus) (REDEFINED) Heavy Cut Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eKill deep scratches without compromise – GYEON Q²M Compound+\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is GYEON Q²M Compound+? It's a heavy cut polish built for deep scratches, heavy swirl marks and stubborn oxidation – maximum cut for fast, effective defect correction on both hard and soft paint, with minimal follow-up work.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen a medium correction no longer cuts it, \u003cstrong\u003eGYEON Q²M Compound+\u003c\/strong\u003e steps in: the heavy cut member of the GYEON polishing line is built for the worst defects – deep wash scratches, extreme swirl marks, holograms left by bad machine work, oxidation and dull, flat paint that needs a serious correction. The REDEFINED formula gives you maximum cutting power with fast abrasive break-in, yet still leaves solid gloss once the compound step is done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut for deep defect correction – even on hard paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e Q²M Compound+ removes enough clear coat to fully knock out deep scratches and stubborn defects. It really shines on hard paint (German premium cars) that just shrugs off milder compounds.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFast abrasive break-in – efficient for pro work.\u003c\/strong\u003e The REDEFINED formula in Q²M Compound+ fires up the abrasives quickly and hits full efficiency straight away, no long working-in. That saves you real time day-to-day and cuts the minutes per panel down noticeably.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMinimal residue despite the heavy cut.\u003c\/strong\u003e High-cut compounds often leave dusty residue that's a pain to dig out of gaps and corners. Q²M Compound+ is formulated so residue stays minimal and wipes off easily – a big deal when you do this for a living.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run Q²M Compound+ on a rotary or dual-action (top speed) with a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-rotary-eccentric-heavy-cut-polierpad\"\u003eheavy cut pad\u003c\/a\u003e or a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-rotary-wool-heavy-cut-polierpad-lammfell-weiss\"\u003ewool pad\u003c\/a\u003e for maximum cut. Always work panel by panel and lay down a test spot first – leave Compound+ on too long or push the speed too high and it'll eat through soft paint fast. After Compound+, always finish with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Polish\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhen is Q²M Compound+ the right call?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReach for Q²M Compound+ when: you can still feel the scratch with a fingernail (medium to deep scratches), the paint is heavily oxidised and dull, the paint is so hard it won't respond to Q²M Compound (Medium Cut), or you need to strip out a bad previous polish (holograms from sloppy machine work). Always confirm the choice on a test spot first – if Medium Cut does the job, you don't need Compound+. As a rule, Compound+ leaves holograms behind that a finishing polish has to clear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eQ²M Compound+ on different machine types\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eQ²M Compound+ works on both rotary and dual-action machines. On a rotary with a wool pad (\u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-rotary-wool-heavy-cut-polierpad-lammfell-weiss\"\u003eQ²M Rotary Wool Heavy Cut\u003c\/a\u003e) Compound+ pulls the highest correction power – perfect for extreme defects or really hard paint. On a dual-action with a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-rotary-eccentric-heavy-cut-polierpad\"\u003eheavy cut pad\u003c\/a\u003e the correction is a touch lower but safer if you're less experienced. What comes next: Compound+ takes out the defects but leaves visible polishing holograms on glossy paint – finishing with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Polish\u003c\/a\u003e is a must.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThree-step correction: Compound+ → Compound → Polish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor extreme paint defects we'd run a three-step correction: step 1 with Q²M Compound+ for the heavy defect removal (holograms accepted as an unavoidable side effect), step 2 with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-compound-medium-cut-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Compound\u003c\/a\u003e (Medium Cut) for the fine correction and better gloss, step 3 with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Polish\u003c\/a\u003e for the final shine and full hologram removal. Even on badly beaten paint, this sequence lands a flawless, wet-look finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eResidue and finishing after Q²M Compound+\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnce you've run Q²M Compound+, finishing isn't optional. Compound+ leaves holograms and fine micro-marring behind that show up on glossy paint. \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Polish\u003c\/a\u003e is the finishing polish for the job – it clears the Compound+ holograms reliably and pulls out maximum depth of gloss. For milder correction jobs there's an alternative: \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-compound-medium-cut-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Compound\u003c\/a\u003e (Medium Cut) as a finishing step between Compound+ and Polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOur pick: Q²M Compound+ for pros and serious detailers\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q²M Compound+ is the strongest cut in the Q²M range – a tool for serious paint correction. If you want to take out deep scratches, oxidation or old damage properly, there's no way around Compound+. For a complete polishing kit we'd grab: Q²M Compound+ with a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-rotary-wool-heavy-cut-polierpad-lammfell-weiss\"\u003ewool pad\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-compound-medium-cut-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Compound\u003c\/a\u003e with a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-cut-rotary-eccentric-polierpad\"\u003ecut pad\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Polish\u003c\/a\u003e with a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-finish-rotary-eccentric-polierpad\"\u003efinish pad\u003c\/a\u003e, and finally \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-prep-entfetter-alkoholbasis\"\u003eQ²M Prep\u003c\/a\u003e before the coating.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"GYEON","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57334908256591,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MCOMP+1000","price":64.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"4 fl. oz.","offer_id":57334904553807,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MCOMP+120","price":12.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"250ml","offer_id":57334908223823,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MCOMP+250","price":22.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2m-compound-plus-redefined-heavy-cut-lackpolitur.png?v=1774645428"},{"product_id":"gyeon-q2-primer-finishing-politur-sio2-coating-primer","title":"Q² Primer Finishing Polish \u0026 SiO² Coating Primer","description":"\u003ch2\u003eThe perfect finish before the coating – GYEON Q² Primer\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is GYEON Q² Primer? GYEON Q² Primer is a high-grade finishing paint polish with a built-in SiO₂ coating primer – it takes the paint to full gloss after correction and, in the same pass, chemically preps the surface so the ceramic coating that follows bonds the way it should.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGYEON Q² Primer\u003c\/strong\u003e closes the gap between paint polishing and ceramic coating. As the last polishing step before you coat, Q² Primer does two jobs at once: it pulls out the micro-swirls and polish residue left by the previous pass, and at the same time it lays SiO₂ compounds into the paint surface that act as a bonding agent for the ceramic coating to come. What you end up with is a surface prepped twice over – flawless gloss, and chemically ready to bond with the GYEON Q² coatings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFinishing polish and coating primer in one bottle.\u003c\/strong\u003e Two steps become one: Q² Primer finishes at the highest level and lays the chemical groundwork for coating adhesion at the same time. That saves you a step and makes sure the coating goes onto a properly prepped surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePulls out the micro-swirls left by the previous polish step.\u003c\/strong\u003e After a medium cut or a polish pass there are usually very fine micro-marks still sitting in the surface. Q² Primer has enough cut to clear those last irregularities and bring up a flawless, deep gloss.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe SiO₂ bonding agent measurably improves the coating bond.\u003c\/strong\u003e The built-in silicon dioxide compounds anchor into the opened-up paint structure and create bonding points for the ceramic coating that follows. That raises adhesion strength and can stretch out the service life of the coating.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e GYEON Q² Primer is the ideal last polishing step before you lay down the coating. Once you have polished, take the residue off completely and check the paint under an inspection light – then go straight to the coating, no second degrease. The SiO₂ compounds in the primer have already handled the surface activation for you. If you want to be sure, a light wipe with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-prep-entfetter-alkoholbasis\"\u003eQ²M Prep\u003c\/a\u003e will activate the surface one more time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFinishing polish + coating primer: the dual job explained\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePrepping paint for a ceramic coating traditionally takes several steps: polish to the correction level you want, degrease with isopropanol, then lay the coating down. GYEON Q² Primer folds the IPA degreasing step into the polishing itself – while you work the product, the SiO₂ compounds in the primer bond to the freshly polished paint and leave a chemically active layer that takes the coating better. At the same time the abrasives in the primer are as fine as those in a finishing polish: they clear the last micro-marks without hurting the surface through excessive cut. What you have after Q² Primer is mirror-smooth, activated paint, ready for the coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use it: Q² Primer as the last step before the coating\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q² Primer goes on after every correction step (compound, polish) as the closing polishing pass. Spread a thin film on a finishing pad (DA or rotary) and work it in at moderate machine speed. The polish starts with light cut, and you feel the switch to the gloss stage under your hand (the polish turns more transparent). Once it is worked out, take the residue off with a clean microfibre. The paint is now ready for the coating – an extra degrease is normally not needed, because Q² Primer has already activated the surface. On a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-finish-rotary-eccentric-polierpad\"\u003eQ²M Finish Pad\u003c\/a\u003e or a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-rotary-eccentric-polierpad\"\u003eQ²M Polish Pad\u003c\/a\u003e Q² Primer gives you its best results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCompatibility: which GYEON coatings benefit from Q² Primer?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q² Primer is built as prep for every Q² ceramic coating in the GYEON line: \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2-mohs-evo-paint-coating-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eQ² Mohs EVO\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2-one-evo-paint-coating-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eQ² One EVO\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2-pure-evo-paint-coating-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eQ² Pure EVO\u003c\/a\u003e and the two-component \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2-syncro-evo-paint-coating-2-stufige-kerami\"\u003eQ² Syncro EVO\u003c\/a\u003e. The chemical surface activation Q² Primer leaves behind works with all of these systems and measurably improves adhesion. You can also use Q² Primer as prep for coating systems from other manufacturers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eQ² Primer vs. IPA degreasing: what are the differences?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe traditional route before a coating goes on is wiping the paint down with isopropanol (IPA) or a dedicated degreaser. IPA reliably pulls off oils and polish residue, but it leaves the surface chemically inert. GYEON Q² Primer goes one step further: it does not just remove residue (through the polishing pass), it also brings in SiO₂ compounds that work as an active bonding bridge for the coating. What you get is a surface optimised both chemically and mechanically for the coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho it is for: Q² Primer for the perfect coating setup\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q² Primer is for every pro detailer and car owner about to lay down a ceramic coating who will not compromise on the prep. As an optional add-on in the coating prep, Q² Primer turns the last step before the ceramic sealant into a double job: best possible finish, maximum coating adhesion. In a polishing set, Q² Primer rounds off \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-compound-medium-cut-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Compound\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Polish\u003c\/a\u003e as the final link in the correction chain.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"GYEON","offers":[{"title":"4 fl. oz.","offer_id":57335238394191,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2PRIMER120","price":15.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57335242326351,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2PRIMER1000","price":79.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2-primer-finishing-politur-sio2-coating-primer.png?v=1774644040"},{"product_id":"gyeon-q2m-compound-medium-cut-lackpolitur","title":"Q²M Compound Medium Cut Paint Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClearing medium scratches for good – GYEON Q²M Compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is GYEON Q²M Compound? GYEON Q²M Compound is a medium-cut paint polish that cuts medium scratches, swirls and holograms out of the clear coat while already pulling up serious gloss – for a defect-free finish, either as prep for a coating or as a standalone polish.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the three-step polishing system, \u003cstrong\u003eGYEON Q²M Compound\u003c\/strong\u003e sits in the middle: more bite than a pure finishing polish, gentler than a heavy-cut compound. Exactly right for the job you meet most often — everyday scratches, swirl patterns and holograms left behind by machine work, all sorted in one pass with a good level of gloss already on the panel. The compound is built for a machine polisher and a matching pad, and it gives you fast, repeatable results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium cut – it gets on top of swirls and everyday scratches.\u003c\/strong\u003e Q²M Compound has exactly the right bite for the most common paint defects: wash marring, fine swirl patterns and light holograms are knocked back hard or removed completely in a single pass, without taking off more clear coat than you need to.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh gloss straight out of the compound stage.\u003c\/strong\u003e Plenty of medium-cut compounds leave the paint dull and hazy, so you have to chase them with a finishing polish. Q²M Compound finishes down much better on its own: gloss after the compound stage is already high, which cuts the time you spend on the finishing pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow dusting – cleaner work all round.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Q²M Compound formula keeps polishing dust to a minimum – less spent product on the car and around you, cleaner work and less wiping down between polishing steps.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run Q²M Compound on a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-rotary-eccentric-heavy-cut-polierpad\"\u003emedium-cut pad\u003c\/a\u003e with a dual-action machine (speed 6–8). Always start on a small test spot and match the machine setting to how bad the defects are. After the compound step, finish with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Polish\u003c\/a\u003e – for that last bit of deep gloss. Before you coat, always degrease with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-prep-entfetter-alkoholbasis\"\u003eQ²M Prep\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMedium cut vs heavy cut: when Q²M Compound, when Compound+?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePicking between medium cut and heavy cut decides your result. Q²M Compound (medium cut) handles scratches down to a medium depth – everyday swirls, wash marring, light holograms and defects your fingernail just barely doesn't catch. On deep scratches, heavy holograms or really hard paint you go to \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-compound-plus-redefined-heavy-cut-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Compound+\u003c\/a\u003e (heavy cut), which takes off a lot more clear coat. Rule of thumb: always start with the milder compound – if the result isn't there, step up to Compound+.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eQ²M Compound in a two-step correction\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe standard programme in professional paint correction is the two-step polish: step 1 with Q²M Compound or \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-compound-plus-redefined-heavy-cut-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Compound+\u003c\/a\u003e (defect correction), step 2 with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Polish\u003c\/a\u003e (refining and deep gloss). Q²M Compound takes care of the correction step: every defect goes in this pass, the deep gloss comes in the finishing pass. Because Q²M Compound already leaves a good level of gloss, paint that isn't badly beaten up can sometimes be done one-step with the compound alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePad recommendation for Q²M Compound\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best results with Q²M Compound we'd reach for a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-rotary-eccentric-heavy-cut-polierpad\"\u003eheavy-cut\u003c\/a\u003e or \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-cut-rotary-eccentric-polierpad\"\u003ecut pad\u003c\/a\u003e on the dual-action machine, or a medium-cut pad on the rotary. The pad decides your effective cut: hard pad + medium-cut polish = more effective cut, soft pad + the same polish = less. That gives you room to dial in to the defect level. After the compound step, swap the pad for the finishing pass with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Polish\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eQ²M Compound on different paint hardnesses\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePaint hardness varies from brand to brand – German cars (BMW, Mercedes, Porsche) often run harder clear coats than Japanese or Korean ones. On very hard paint you can push Q²M Compound up a machine speed. On soft paint (a lot of Fiat and Renault models, for example) go careful – too high a setting takes off more clear coat than you want. The test spot is non-negotiable here. For extreme cases on really hard paint there's \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-compound-plus-redefined-heavy-cut-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Compound+\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice: Q²M Compound for professional paint correction\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGYEON Q²M Compound is the first thing you grab when a car sits at a medium defect level. Paired with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Polish\u003c\/a\u003e you have a complete two-step polishing system. As a full correction sequence we'd run: decontamination (\u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-iron-redefined-flugrostentferner\"\u003eQ²M Iron\u003c\/a\u003e + \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-tar-redefined-harzentferner-teerentferner\"\u003eQ²M Tar\u003c\/a\u003e + clay), Q²M Compound + \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-polish-finishing-lackpolitur\"\u003eQ²M Polish\u003c\/a\u003e, degreasing with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2m-prep-entfetter-alkoholbasis\"\u003eQ²M Prep\u003c\/a\u003e and coating with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2-mohs-evo-paint-coating-keramikversiegelung-lack\"\u003eQ² Mohs EVO\u003c\/a\u003e or \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gyeon-q2-one-evo-paint-coating-keramikversiegelung-lack\"\u003eQ² One EVO\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"GYEON","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57335242555727,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MCOMP1000","price":49.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"4 fl. oz.","offer_id":57335238558031,"sku":"D1-GYEON-Q2MCOMP120","price":12.0,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/gyeon-q2m-compound-medium-cut-lackpolitur.png?v=1774646585"}],"url":"https:\/\/detiiling1.com\/collections\/politur.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}