{"title":"Polishing — SONAX","description":null,"products":[{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur","title":"XTREME Polish+Wax 3 Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFine scratches and hazing gone, paint sealed — with the SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does a finishing polish actually do? This light combination polish pulls out fine scratches, hazing and oxidation — and seals the paint in the same step with Hybrid NetProtection Technology for lasting protection and real depth of gloss.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNot every paint defect calls for an aggressive cutting compound. If you want to freshen up paint that is already in good shape, or clear the fine water spots and hazing left behind after winter, you do not need a heavy cutting product — you need a finishing polish that works gently and protects at the same time. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e is exactly that: a light combination polish that pulls fine scratches, swirl marks and oxidation haze out of the clear coat and seals it in one single pass with Hybrid NetProtection Technology. The result is mirror gloss with depth — without loading the paint more than it needs. As the finest member of the XTREME Polish+Wax range, it is the logical pick for the last polishing stage in a multi-step workflow, or as a stand-alone product on cars whose paint is still healthy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo what does \"light cut\" mean in practice? Clear coat has a limited film thickness — on most cars somewhere between 30 and 60 microns. Every polish takes a slice of that. An aggressive cutting compound can remove 5–10 microns in a single pass, a fine finishing polish less than 1–2 microns. That makes a real difference to how long the paint lasts: with the right polish at the right strength you can keep the clear coat in shape year after year without the film thickness dropping into awkward territory. This is where a well-graded set of polishes pays off — and the Polish+Wax 3 fills exactly the slot most car owners are missing: the gentle, regularly usable finishing polish with a sealant built in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLight cut for gentle paint correction.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Polish+Wax 3 runs fine abrasives that pull surface scratches and micro-marring out of the clear coat without digging deeper than they have to. That makes it the safe pick for soft paint, older cars, or as the closing step after a harder cutting stage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — polish and seal in one.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NPT sealant in the bottle ties inorganic and organic protection components into a weather-resistant network right on the paint. That saves you a separate wax or sealant pass and still gives you measurable water beading and protection against the elements.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDeep gloss and colour brilliance as the end result.\u003c\/strong\u003e The mix of fine abrasion and the sealant that follows leaves a mirror finish with real depth. On dark paint especially, the difference to an untreated or merely waxed panel jumps straight out — the paint looks fresh, rich and three-dimensional.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the Polish+Wax 3 by machine with a soft finishing pad — low to medium speed, light pressure. That spreads the cut evenly without stressing the clear coat. Working by hand? Small sections (30 × 30 cm), cross-hatch passes, medium pressure as you work the product in. Once it has flashed off (the surface goes slightly dull), buff it back — that is when the full gloss shows up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — the sealant formula behind the Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology (NPT) is the technical heart of the whole XTREME Polish+Wax range. Behind the name sits a sealing approach that links organic and inorganic protection components together — think of a chemical network built straight onto the clear coat. Inorganic components such as silicon-based compounds are hard, UV-stable and shield against mechanical attack from dirt and water. Organic components such as waxes or polymers are flexible, grip the paint well and deliver that typical gloss and soft feel underhand. Linking both systems gives you a protective layer that is neither too rigid nor too soft — it moves with temperature swings, it stays put, and it invites water to bead. For you that means one product, two jobs. No separate waxing, no separate sealing after polishing. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e closes both steps in one pass and still lands a result that can hold its own against a sealant applied afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo where is the difference between the Polish+Wax 3 and other one-step products? The key is the quality of the abrasives. Cheap combination polishes often lean on coarse abrasive bonds that show quick results but hit the paint harder. The fine abrasives in the Polish+Wax 3 are sized to work through hazing, water marks and swirls effectively without cutting into deeper layers of clear coat. That looks after the material long term and lets you reach for the bottle regularly without worrying about thinning the clear coat over the years — a decisive edge over stronger cutting compounds in continuous use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more plus: the product is easy to control. Where aggressive polishes can burn through an edge or a body line in seconds, this fine formulation is forgiving — even if you are less experienced, the risk of over-polishing stays low. The NPT sealant that builds up during the polishing pass needs no curing time like a ceramic product and no separate coat — it forms as you polish and is active the moment you buff off. That simplifies the whole routine and makes the Polish+Wax 3 a dependable all-rounder for regular paint care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the XTREME Polish+Wax 3 — step by step to a mirror finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore any polish comes a proper wash: get the dirt, road film and loose grit off the paint — ideally with a two-bucket wash or a foam wash, so nothing abrasive stays behind on the panel. If you want the maximum out of it, run an iron decontamination step before polishing to pull embedded iron particles. The polishing pass with the Polish+Wax 3 then happens on clean, dry paint. The product goes on by machine or by hand: with a polisher (dual action or rotary) and a soft finishing pad you get even results across big panels, while hand application suits smaller corrections or anyone without a machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe way we recommend: a small blob of product onto the pad, spread it at low speed, then work it in evenly at medium speed. Do not work in direct sun or on hot paint — the product grabs too fast and buffing off gets harder. After working it in, let it flash off briefly (until the surface goes slightly dull) and then buff with a clean microfibre. The result shows immediately: an evenly glossy panel with no residue. The Polish+Wax 3 also suits beginners in paint care — the light colour of the product and the easy dosing make it simple to hit the right amount and avoid going over the same spot too often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor trim, mirrors or tight sections we recommend a smaller polishing pad or hand application with a folded microfibre. That way you get an even result in awkward spots too, without slinging product onto rubber seals or plastic parts. If you are planning several passes — on a car that has gone a long time without care, say — check the result in proper light (a detailing lamp or daylight) after each pass before you lay down the next one. That saves you pointless repeats and spares both time and material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when the Polish+Wax 3 is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME Polish+Wax 3 is ideal for cars whose paint is fundamentally sound but would benefit from a refresh. Typical situations: after the winter break, when leftover grime and water spots have baked into the clear coat; after a cutting stage with a stronger compound, as the closing fine step; or after a drive through sand or fine dust that has left light swirls on the paint. With heavier scratches or deeper oxidation damage — visible grooves, sanding marks, dullness across a whole panel — it runs into its limits. In that case a stronger cutting compound is the right first move, with the Polish+Wax 3 as the finisher.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt works especially well on dark colours such as black, dark blue or graphite metallic — that is where sensitivity to fine scratches and haze is highest, and where the visual payoff of a successful polish is most impressive. On light paint it works just as well, but the before-and-after difference is naturally a bit less dramatic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt also suits cars with a factory clear-coat sealant or a protective film, as long as the sealant is not already too thick or too hard — in that case, check whether the protective layer is still intact before you polish. After a pass with the Polish+Wax 3, a further sealant is optional, since the NPT technology has already built a layer of protection. If you still want more, you can lay a compatible sealant or a ceramic straight on top — paint that has just been polished and degreased is the ideal base for it. Regular care with the finishing polish in spring and autumn shields the paint through the toughest stretches of the year — after a winter of road salt and before the UV-heavy summer season — and keeps it long term in a state that barely needs correcting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolish+Wax 3 compared — where it sits in the SONAX XTREME polish line-up\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME Polish+Wax line is sorted by cut: the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/a\u003e offers a medium cut — ideal for hazing, but also for lighter scratches and medium oxidation. The Polish+Wax 3 is the finer option: it corrects less aggressively, which makes it the natural choice for the closing polishing step or for paint that is already well looked after. Both share the Hybrid NPT sealant, they differ in cut. If you want a clean, soft finish after heavy correction with the Polish+Wax 2 or a pro-grade compound, you close the workflow with the Polish+Wax 3 — and tick off polishing and sealing in the same step. This two-stage approach — medium correction first, then refining and sealing — is a proven workflow in professional paint correction, and you can run it with XTREME products without moving up to the pro machine polishing line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs an alternative, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the modern ceramic option — it combines light abrasion with a ceramic sealant that builds a harder, longer-lasting layer than the NPT technology. If you are after maximum durability from the sealant and still want to polish and protect with one product, the Ceramic Polish takes you a step further. For the regular, simpler refresh with little effort, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegelung\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e is an alternative: a light hand wax polish for quick depth of gloss between care intervals. The Polish+Wax 3 sits between these products — more corrective bite than BrilliantWax, more accessible than a ceramic system. For the systematic detailer who picks products by the state of the paint, it is the natural first pick for the status \"paint in good shape, a few things to tidy up\" — before you decide whether heavier correction is really necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the Polish+Wax 3 from SONAX pays off for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right product for anyone who wants to keep their paint in top shape regularly without reaching for an aggressive compound every time. It suits paint-care beginners looking for a forgiving product, and experienced detailers who use it as the closing stage in a graded polishing workflow. The mix of genuine correction and a built-in long-term sealant makes it one of the most versatile products in the XTREME range. The 500 ml bottle covers several full car treatments and is good value for that. If you care about lasting paint protection and want to take it one step further, run the Polish+Wax 3 as the correction stage and finish with a ceramic sealant for maximum durability.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOur verdict: if you want an all-round paint product that works fast, easily and with a visible result — and seals on top of that — the Polish+Wax 3 has you covered. It is not a tool for heavy correction on deep damage, but for everything that comes after that, or that is needed in between, it has the right format: friendly and forgiving to use, consistent and even in the result, fair on price. It is a particularly good match for cars with paint that is looked after but no longer factory-fresh — the broad middle of the fleet, three to ten years on the road. In that class there is often not much missing from a top result, and the light cut of the Polish+Wax 3 is enough to unlock that potential in full.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160876949839,"sku":"D1-SNX-0202200","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Polish-Wax-3-9.png?v=1721514206"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur","title":"XTREME Polish+Wax 2 Car Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove fine scratches and build lasting deep gloss with SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2 do? This all-in-one polish with a medium cut removes fine wash marks and hazing while sealing at the same time with Hybrid NetProtection Technology — polishing and sealing in one step.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA car with lightly stressed paint — fine wash marks, a bit of hazing, the first UV-induced dullness — doesn't need an aggressive correction compound. What it needs is a product that polishes the paint gently, brings the colour depth back and lays down a protective seal at the same time. That's exactly where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is strong: an all-in-one polish with a medium cut that pairs fine abrasives with Hybrid NetProtection Technology. The result is mirror-like deep gloss, seriously good water beading and a durable protective layer that goes on in a single pass — no separate sealing round. If you want to refresh your paint regularly without spending hours on correction, the Polish+Wax 2 is the one to grab.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePolishing and sealing in one step — time saved, nothing given up.\u003c\/strong\u003e Most polishes need a separate sealing step once the polishing is done. The Polish+Wax 2 builds Hybrid NetProtection Technology straight into the polish: while the abrasives work the fine scratches out, the NPT components lay down a protective layer at the same time. That saves time and makes sure the freshly polished surface is sealed right away.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMirror-like deep gloss with a proper colour boost.\u003c\/strong\u003e The extremely fine abrasives in the Polish+Wax 2 are tuned for as-new and regularly maintained paint — they level the clearcoat without pulling off more material than needed. What you get is an evenly mirroring surface with deep colour saturation, especially on dark paint.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — a seal that bonds with the paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e NPT links inorganic and organic protective components into a stable network on the paint surface. That network handles the weather better than a simple wax layer and protects long term against UV, acid rain and organic deposits like bug splatter and bird droppings.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Protect plastic and rubber trim before you polish with the XTREME KunststoffGel Außen — polish residue in shut lines and on rubber seals is a pain to get out and leaves white marks. Lay the polish down on dry paint, spread it thin and work it in straight away with a medium-hard microfibre cloth — don't let it dry on. For machine work with a polishing pad set, the Polish+Wax 2 gives especially even results, because the heat from the machine kicks off the NPT cross-linking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — how polishing and sealing work chemically in one step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology is the chemical heart of the Polish+Wax 2 and explains why the product does more than a simple \"polish with a bit of wax in it\". Conventional all-in-one polishes use wax as the sealing component — that works, but wax layers are comparatively short-lived and sensitive to alkaline cleaners and UV. Hybrid NPT takes a different route: it combines inorganic protective components (similar to the ones used in mineral sealants) with organic polymers to form a hybrid network. That hybrid structure bonds more strongly to the clearcoat than pure wax and stays more flexible than purely inorganic sealants, which crack sooner under mechanical stress. The result is a protective layer that brings together the best of both worlds: the chemical resistance of inorganic compounds and the mechanical flexibility of organic polymers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasives in the Polish+Wax 2 are set up for a medium cut — they take out fine scratches in depth class 1 to 2 (wash marks, brush strikes, light holograms) without digging into the clearcoat. That's an important difference to more aggressive compounds used on heavily weathered or deeply damaged paint: a gentle cut protects the clearcoat from losing too much material and extends the life of the paint. On as-new cars and regularly maintained paint, the medium cut of the Polish+Wax 2 is the right way into paint care — treat your paint twice a year with it and you keep it in as-new condition long term, without burning through your clearcoat reserve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA common misunderstanding: that an all-in-one polish is less effective than separate polishing and sealing steps. That's not true across the board. On badly neglected paint with deep scratches and an oxidised surface, a multi-stage correction with an aggressive cutting compound, a finishing polish and a separate sealant makes sense. For everything else — as-new paint, regular maintenance polishing, a seasonal refresh — an all-in-one polish is the more efficient answer. It saves time, cuts the number of products you need and delivers results that are more than enough for everyday use. The Polish+Wax 2 closes the gap between \"not polishing at all\" and \"a professional multi-step correction\" perfectly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Polish+Wax 2 properly — step by step to deep gloss\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorking with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e always starts with a thorough wash. Dirt, grit and brake dust left on the paint act like sandpaper when you polish and cut scratches far worse than what you started with. After the wash, dry the car completely — polishes work far better on dry paint and grip more evenly. Before you start, protect plastic and rubber areas with masking tape or the XTREME KunststoffGel so no polish residue creeps into the shut lines.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe polish goes onto a SONAX applicator sponge or a polishing ball and gets spread over the paint in even, overlapping passes. Technique decides the result here: straight back-and-forth or lightly crossing lines beat circular motions, which can leave holograms. Lay the polish down thin and even — too much product only makes the wipe-off harder and doesn't improve anything. Split the paint into sections you can handle: bonnet, roof, boot lid, one side at a time. Once it's spread, wipe it off straight away with a clean, medium-hard microfibre cloth, before the polish dries on. Dried residue is a pain to get out and can leave streaks. For the best finish, go over the panel again after the wipe-off with a second, fresh microfibre and buff it dry — that second pass pulls the last residues off and brings out the full gloss the NPT seal makes possible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA classic mistake when working by hand is too much pressure. Polishes don't need you to lean on them — the chemical action of the abrasives is enough to level fine scratches. Too much pressure builds heat, which breaks the abrasives down too fast and cures the sealing components too early, before they've spread evenly across the paint. Light, even pressure with calm, overlapping passes is the recipe for consistent results. Working outdoors, watch out for direct sun: if the paint is hot (above about 30°C), move into the shade or wait for it to cool, because the heat cuts your working time right down and dry spots can form.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 is explicitly suited to machine work. A dual-action polisher with a medium-hard pad gives more even results than working by hand, because the machine keeps the pressure and the speed constant. One thing that matters: prime the pad fully with polish before you start, so the first pass doesn't run dry. After machine work, buff to a high gloss with a fresh microfibre. The water beading from the NPT seal shows after the very first application — by the first rain at the latest you'll see the classic lotus effect on the freshly treated paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when the Polish+Wax 2 is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 was developed for a clearly defined job and it delivers there: as-new cars (0–3 years) with fine everyday scratches, regularly maintained cars that need a seasonal refresh (spring care after winter, autumn care before the salt season), and paint with light UV-induced hazing. For that range the medium cut is exactly right: it clears the defects that are there completely and leaves no unnecessary damage in the clearcoat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the Polish+Wax 2 stops: for deep scratches, heavy oxidation, orange peel or strong holograms you need a stronger cutting stage. The XTREME Polish+Wax 3 has a stronger cut and is the right choice for harder-worn paint — often the combination of Polish+Wax 3 as the first step and Polish+Wax 2 as the finishing step is the most professional way through neglected paint. And on fresh factory paint that's still \"green\" and shows no defects at all, a pure sealant with no polishing step is the better call, so you don't stress the paint for nothing. In those cases the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-protect-shine-hochglanz-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Protect+Shine high-gloss sealant\u003c\/a\u003e without abrasives is the product for the job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 really shines on dark paint — black, dark blue, dark grey — because those colours show deep gloss and colour saturation most clearly. Light paint (white, silver) benefits too, but the difference between treated and untreated is far more dramatic on dark surfaces. On metallic paint the NPT seal makes sure the metallic flakes reflect evenly instead of being muted by haze — an effect that looks especially impressive on red and blue metallics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother job it's made for is prepping a used car before you buy or sell. If you're buying, the state of the paint tells you quickly how well the car was looked after — and freshly polished paint is a strong signal of care and value retention. If you're selling, a careful polish can visibly lift the price you get. One to two hours of work for a full polishing treatment — and material costs of under 20 euros — can easily justify several hundred euros more at sale. The Polish+Wax 2 is especially good for this because it gives solid results even without a machine, and the seal presents the car at its best for potential buyers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 compared — where it sits in the SONAX XTREME polish range\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME polish range from SONAX is laid out clearly by cut and purpose. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e takes the middle spot: more cut than a plain wax care stick, less than an aggressive correction compound. The XTREME Polish+Wax 3 has a stronger cut, is built for older and more weathered paint and can take out deeper scratches — but it also demands more control, because too much abrasion can damage the clearcoat. For getting into active paint care, the Polish+Wax 2 is therefore the safer recommendation, because it does less harm if your technique isn't dialled in yet. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegel\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e isn't really a cutting product at all but a polish with a wax seal for very light defects and gentle surface care — it has less cut than the Polish+Wax 2, but its higher wax content gives a soft, warm gloss that people prefer on classics and rare cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to products from other makers, the Polish+Wax 2 is one of the most complete answers in its price bracket, because it polishes and seals in one step without giving anything up. Plenty of entry-level all-in-one polishes sacrifice either the cut or the sealing performance — the Polish+Wax 2 keeps both at a professional level. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e is the stronger alternative when the defects are pronounced, and can be used as a first stage ahead of the Polish+Wax 2. Running both — Polish+Wax 3 to kill the defects, then Polish+Wax 2 for the refinement and the final seal — is a proper two-step workflow that gets great results even on badly neglected paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the Polish+Wax 2 is right for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right choice for anyone who wants to take paint care into their own hands and has a car with lightly to moderately stressed paint. It's simple enough for beginners with no polishing experience, and precise enough for experienced detailers looking for a fast, reliable maintenance polishing step. The 500 ml bottle covers several full cars and gives you very good value for the quality on offer — both the cut and the sealing performance of the Hybrid NPT sit clearly above comparable all-in-one polishes from the supermarket shelf. You'll notice the difference by the first rain at the latest: the water beading from the NPT seal is obvious even to a complete novice and a reliable sign the seal went on properly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor seasonal paint care we recommend the Polish+Wax 2 twice a year — in spring to clear salt residue and the micro-scratches winter leaves behind, and in autumn to prepare the paint for the hard winter season. That routine keeps the paint in a state where most fine defects never form in the first place, because the seal works as a buffer between the paint and the elements. Stick to that rhythm and use a quick detailer for the short-term refresh between polishes, and you'll have well-kept paint all year without a big time investment. Regular care isn't just about looks either — it protects the value of the car long term, because well-kept paint ages far more slowly and keeps the bodywork safe from corrosion risk through creeping moisture. At Detailing1 you'll find the polish together with the kit that goes with it — applicator sponges, microfibre cloths and polishing pad sets for machine work — for the complete polishing workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160877343055,"sku":"D1-SNX-02072000","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Polish-Wax-2-0.png?v=1721514375"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegelung","title":"XTREME BrilliantWax 1 polish with wax sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePolish and seal in one step for a deep, high-gloss finish — SONAX XTREME BrilliantWax 1 in real use\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat sets a polish with wax sealant apart from a plain polish? A polish-and-wax combo lightly cuts the paint, clears up fine surface haze and leaves a protective layer of wax at the same time — two jobs in a single pass.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCar paint loses its original gloss over time to micro-scratches, UV and oxidation of the clear coat. Regular polishing brings that gloss back — and when you build a layer of protection in the same go, the effort really pays off. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/strong\u003e is a polish with built-in wax sealant in a 500 ml tin that brightens paint, pulls out deep gloss and seals it with a layer of wax, all in one step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePolish and seal in one step for efficient paint care.\u003c\/strong\u003e BrilliantWax 1 pairs a mild cutting action that clears fine dullness with a built-in wax sealant. If you don't want to add a separate sealing step after polishing, you save time without giving up the protection of a wax layer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMild abrasive for regular care intervals without eating into the clear coat.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasive grade in BrilliantWax 1 is built for regular use — not for one-off correction of deep scratches. For a yearly or twice-yearly maintenance polish that keeps the gloss up, this is the right cut. Too aggressive a polish used regularly would thin the clear coat over the long run.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks by hand and by machine for flexible use.\u003c\/strong\u003e You can lay BrilliantWax 1 down by hand with a sponge or pad, or work it in with a dual-action machine polisher. By hand it's direct and fuss-free; by machine you get a more even spread across bigger panels and save your arms when you do the whole car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e BrilliantWax 1 gives its best on paint that's been washed clean and decontaminated. Lay the product onto a lightly damp foam pad — a dry pad gives you patchy coverage and burns through product. Let it grab for a moment before you buff it off: with a machine, 30 seconds of dwell is enough before the second pass to buff it out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolish-and-wax tech in BrilliantWax 1 — how the cutting and sealing sides work together\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA combo polish like BrilliantWax 1 carries two working parts: abrasives and wax sealant. The abrasives are fine enough to mechanically take off surface dullness and micro-scratches in the clear coat without digging deep into the paint. Once you've buffed it off, the wax stays behind as a thin, protective film that deepens the gloss and shields the paint from water, dust and light dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe real difference from a plain polish is the finishing stage: after a straight polish the paint is bare and unprotected — a separate sealant has to follow before the car sees weather or damp. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegelung\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e folds that step into the same pass. That's no compromise on sealing quality, as long as you keep the intervals moderate and aren't after a high-performance sealant with a long lifespan.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWax-based sealants have the upside of going on and buffing off very easily, throwing a warm, natural gloss and playing nicely with practically every paint and colour. Synthetic waxes, like the ones in BrilliantWax 1, marry the classic strengths of natural wax with better heat resistance and a more even film. The result is a surface that shimmers with a silky sheen, beads water reliably and holds onto dust and light dirt far less — all things that make the next wash easier and keep the paint in better shape between care intervals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe wax in BrilliantWax 1 is built for short to medium lifespans. Depending on exposure, how the car is used and the weather, the protection holds for several weeks to a few months — longer on garaged or lightly driven cars. For owners who treat their car regularly — say every quarter — with BrilliantWax 1, protection keeps building up and keeps the paint in good shape over the long haul.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important technical point is that it's silicone-free. For vehicles headed for a respray or bodywork, it matters not to use silicone-based care products that hurt paint adhesion during later work. Check the product data sheet if you're using BrilliantWax 1 ahead of a planned respray.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe sweet spot for applying it is between 10 and 30 degrees Celsius. Below 10 the product thickens up, which makes buffing harder; above 30 the wax dries too fast and can leave stubborn streaks. If you're polishing on hot summer days, move the car into the shade first and make sure the surface is cool. Polishing in the garage with the doors shut, or early in the morning before the day heats up, gives you repeatably better, more even results than working in the midday sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing BrilliantWax 1 — step-by-step workflow for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA thorough wash is a must before polishing: loose grit on the paint acts as an abrasive under the pad and puts scratches in rather than taking them out. After washing you can optionally clay or run an iron remover to clear the surface of embedded contamination that would stop you getting a clean finish. That prep is the difference between a good result and a great one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the winter season especially, a proper decontamination is worth it: brake dust, road salt and tar spots sit deep in the paint and won't come out with a wash alone. An iron remover dissolves metallic fallout chemically, a clay treatment pulls out embedded particles mechanically. Only on a surface prepped like this does BrilliantWax 1 give its full cut — the abrasives bite evenly with no embedded grit to cause scratches, and the wax keys cleanly onto the freshly polished clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePut BrilliantWax 1 on in small amounts onto a polishing pad or applicator sponge. Work a limited area — one panel at a time — until the product has flashed off slightly and can be buffed. You'll learn the right amount: too much makes buffing hard and wastes product with no extra effect; too little dries too fast and can leave smeary residue. As a rule of thumb, a hazelnut-sized blob on the pad is enough for a single panel like a bonnet or driver's door. Dose sparingly and you save product while getting better results, because the pad spreads it more evenly across the surface without oversaturating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you buff, check the paint against the light: an even, streak-free surface with no product residue is the goal. Turn your cloths regularly so you're always buffing with a fresh face. Medium-pile microfibre cloths work best for buffing polish and wax products, since they lift residue well without leaving scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor machine work a dual-action polisher with an 8 to 15 mm throw is the way to go. For the polishing stage a medium foam pad suits; to buff off, switch to a soft finishing pad or a microfibre pad. Keep the speed moderate while laying the product down — too high and the heat scorches the wax before you buff it. When buffing you can bump the speed up a touch to lift the last of the residue and finish the gloss. That way you can work bigger cars panel by panel efficiently, without the first areas drying too hard in the meantime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits and where it doesn't — the paint conditions BrilliantWax 1 suits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBrilliantWax 1 is built for paint that needs light care: fine micro-scratches from everyday driving, light oxidation or a drop in gloss from the weather — the product clears those effectively. For deep scratches that reach into the base coat, or heavily oxidised paint with pronounced hazing, BrilliantWax 1 doesn't have the cut — that's where heavier polishes from the PROFILINE range or dedicated compounds come in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe rule of thumb for judging whether BrilliantWax 1 is enough: run your fingernail over a scratch — if it doesn't catch, the scratch is only in the clear coat, and those are exactly the ones a mild maintenance polish like BrilliantWax 1 can clear. If your nail catches, the scratch runs deeper and you'd need a stronger compound or even paint touch-up work. This simple check saves time and avoids stripping paint needlessly with too-aggressive products on scratches a mild polish won't shift anyway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor as-new cars or freshly corrected paint, BrilliantWax 1 is the ideal maintenance polish: used regularly it keeps the gloss high and stops deeper oxidation layers forming that would later need more aggressive products to fix. The prevention principle — regular gentle care instead of rare heavy correction — spares the clear coat over the long run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to keep your paint in top shape for good, a clear care calendar pays off: spring and autumn are the classic times for a polish with BrilliantWax 1. In spring you clear the leftovers of winter — salt, fine dust, the first pollen — and protect the paint for the UV-heavy summer. In autumn you prep the surface for the punishing winter, when road salt and cold ask a lot of the paint. Add a light refresher polish in summer and you get a continuous protection cycle that keeps the car's original gloss for many years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn dark and black paint, polish residue and streaks show up especially well. If you're polishing dark paint with BrilliantWax 1, take extra care buffing off and ideally work in good light or with a detailing lamp. The final check against the light shows whether every trace of product is gone and the surface gleams evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePlastic trim, rubber seals and black plastic strips around doors and windows soak up wax products easily and are left with a whitish film that lodges stubbornly in the pores. It's worth taping these areas off, or wiping them straight after with a clean, dry cloth before the wax sinks in. BrilliantWax 1 must not be used on matte paint or wraps, since the abrasives would brighten the matte finish and change the look for good.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBrilliantWax 1 compared — when it's the right pick and when it isn't\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX XTREME line-up, BrilliantWax 1 sits as a maintenance polish with a mild cut and built-in wax sealant — the number 1 of this polishing series stands for the lightest cut and the finest finish. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/a\u003e offers more cut for more worn or dulled paint; the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e is the most aggressive version for deeper scratches and heavy oxidation. BrilliantWax 1 is the finishing product of the series — it cuts the least and leaves the most intense gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs an alternative with a different protection approach, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/a\u003e gives you a ceramic sealant instead of a wax one. Ceramic lasts longer and offers more protection against chemical attack; BrilliantWax 1 is easier to use and cheaper to buy. If you want maximum protection from a 2-in-1 product, go for the Ceramic Polish; if you prefer regular, fuss-free care, BrilliantWax 1 serves you better.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor owners who've never worked with combo polishes, BrilliantWax 1 is an ideal start: it's very forgiving on application and timing, buffs off easily, and gives a result that's repeatably good even for beginners. If you're happy after your first successful go and want more protection or lifespan, your next step can be the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" or a separate ceramic sealant over the prepped surface. So BrilliantWax 1 isn't just an end product but a sensible entry point into a more structured detailing routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the XTREME BrilliantWax 1 is the best choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal care product for owners who want to polish their paint at regular intervals and seal it at the same time — without buying and using two separate products. For the yearly or twice-yearly maintenance polish on newer cars with no deeper scratches, it's the most efficient product in the SONAX XTREME line. The price on the 500 ml tin is pitched so the product is economical for private users too: one 500 ml tin covers several full car treatments, so the cost per use stays low. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 stocks BrilliantWax 1 and is glad to advise on the right products for your paint's condition.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49345341456719,"sku":"D1-SNX-201200","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-wachsversiegelung_500ml.png?v=1721579274"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur","title":"XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePaint correction and ceramic protection in a single pass — with SONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can an all-in-one polish with ceramic technology do? It corrects light paint defects like swirls and holograms and, at the same time, leaves a hydrophobic Si-Carbon protective layer behind — with no separate sealing step.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you detail cars, you know the effort a classic three-stage workflow takes: polishing for the correction, finishing for the gloss, sealing for the protection. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e rolls those steps into one: it corrects light to medium paint defects, brings up a high gloss once you buff off the residue, and leaves behind a Si-Carbon-based protective layer with a hydrostatic effect. The result is a compact workflow that's the right call for regular car care and vehicles in good to normal condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree effects in one step: correction, gloss, protection.\u003c\/strong\u003e The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" carries abrasives for the paint correction plus Si-Carbon compounds for the ceramic protection. As you polish, swirls and fine scratches are cut away; as you buff off the residue, the formula leaves a protective layer that makes water bead off and shields the paint from fresh dirt.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks by hand and by machine.\u003c\/strong\u003e You can lay the product down by hand with an applicator sponge or with a DA orbital. For experienced users on a DA orbital the result is more even and more efficient; for occasional users without a machine, hand application is an accessible alternative.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSi-Carbon technology for a lasting hydrophobic effect.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Si-Carbon compounds in the formula are the same technology SONAX uses across the XTREME Ceramic range. Once dry, they form a thin, even protective layer on the clear coat that repels water and light dirt and keeps the car cleaner for longer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Work the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" in with a DA orbital on a medium-soft to soft pad. Since the product holds both abrasives and ceramic binders, too high a machine speed works against you — the ceramic particles set unevenly when they overheat. Recommended speed: 3,500–4,500 rpm. After the polishing pass, let the product haze over briefly (finger test: a slightly cloudy film that feels dry to the touch) before you buff it off with a clean microfibre — that's when the protective layer shows its full effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSi-Carbon technology in the all-in-one polish — how correction and protection work at the same time\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eClassic wax polishes had never fully cracked the challenge of combining abrasives and protective waxes in one formula — either the cut suffered or the protection did. Modern all-in-one products with ceramic technology rely on graded particle sizes and new binders that allow a sequential effect: first the abrasives correct, then the ceramic binders lay down a protective layer as the product dries. This phase separation within the formula is the core difference from older AIO products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe basic principle of an all-in-one polish is combining two requirements that are actually opposites: abrasives for the cut and protective agents for the seal. The technological balance between the two components decides how well an AIO product works day-to-day. Too many abrasives disrupt the protective layer forming; too much protective agent lowers the cut and the correction. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e uses a tuned abrasive load for light to medium corrections, combined with Si-Carbon compounds that settle onto the clear coat as a thin protective layer while the product dries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSi-Carbon technology is the umbrella term for organic silicon-based compounds that deliver protection similar to pure ceramic coatings but are easier to lay down. They show hydrophobic behaviour — water beads off rather than sheeting — and form a barrier against light dirt like road dust, bird droppings and insect residue, which then come off more easily at the next wash. The durability of such a Si-Carbon layer from an AIO product runs to several months depending on care intensity and environmental load — less lasting than a dedicated ceramic coating, but a clear gain in protection over a plain polish with no sealing component.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasives in the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" are calibrated to cut swirls, fine holograms and light-reflected micro-scratches on normal clear coat without biting into deeper layers of the clear coat. This isn't an aggressive cutting product — for deep scratches, oxidation or badly damaged paint you need a dedicated correction product. The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the tool for what's called \"maintenance correction\" — the regular light refresh that keeps a car in good paint condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" — step by step, by hand and by machine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore an all-in-one polish can reach its full potential, the paint has to start out clean. Plenty of people skip the decontamination stage and then find the polishing result is patchy or the correction they expected just isn't there. Iron particles, tar spots and bonded contamination form a layer on the paint that loads up the pad and gums up the abrasives in the product. A careful decontamination step is the basic requirement for a good AIO result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe paint should be thoroughly washed, decontaminated and dry before you start. Dirt, fallout or embedded particles on the surface would act like grit and cause uncontrolled cutting. A pre-treatment with an iron remover and, if needed, a clay bar brings the surface into ideal starting condition. Once it's dry and clean, you can start applying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBy hand: a little product on a soft applicator sponge — a pea-sized amount for an A4-sized area is enough. Work it in with circular motions and medium pressure until it's spread evenly. By machine with a DA orbital: spread the product across the pad, lay it out on the panel at low speed, then bring the speed up to 3,500–4,500 rpm and work in overlapping passes. Two or three passes give the cut time to work; then drop the speed and do a final spreading pass. Let the product haze on the panel briefly (finger test), then wipe off with a clean, soft microfibre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter a full panel pass — spread, polish, let it haze, wipe off — it pays to check the surface under a detailing light or in direct sunlight. Any spots left with holograms or product residue can be reworked right away. Catching weak spots early matters especially with an AIO product, because the dried protective agent is harder to correct once it's fully cured (24–48 hours).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important note on quantity: all-in-one products with a protective-crystal content tend to leave a streaky pattern when you apply too much, and it's hard to wipe off completely. Less product and several thin coats give a better result than one thick application. If you still feel resistance when wiping off, the product hasn't dried all the way through — wait a moment, then polish again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAll-in-one results day-to-day — gloss, protection and limits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter applying the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\", a dark paint colour shows the effect clearly: swirls and holograms are visibly reduced or gone, and the paint reflects more evenly and deeper. At the same time you can see a clear jump in hydrophobicity — water beads off in tight droplets, rainwater runs off the slope of the roof without smearing. This water-beading effect is an instant, visually measurable sign that the Si-Carbon layer is working.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common question is about use on dark vs. light paint colours. The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" suits every colour, but the correction effect shows up most clearly on dark colours (black, dark blue, dark grey), because swirls and holograms reflect more strongly on those surfaces. On light colours like white or silver the protection is just as present, but the visual improvement after polishing is less dramatic. That doesn't mean light-coloured cars don't benefit — the protection and the improved gloss are measurable on every colour.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe product's limits sit clearly with the degree of paint damage: the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is not a deep-correction product. Scratches you can feel with a fingernail, deep holograms after rotary polishing or pronounced oxidation go beyond the capacity of an AIO product. Here a two-stage workflow of correction (with a cutting product) and protection (with a dedicated sealant or the ceramic polish as a second step) is the right approach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature during application affects how the protective layer forms. Ideal is working in the garage or in the shade at temperatures between 15 and 25 °C. In direct sunlight the product dries too fast, before the Si-Carbon compounds can settle evenly — the result is streaks. If you don't have a garage, park the car in the shade for at least 30 minutes before applying and wait until the surface has cooled down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe durability of the protective layer from the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" depends on how the car is used, how often it's cared for and environmental load. Under normal conditions — regular hand washing, the odd bit of rain, no aggressive cleaning with alkaline shampoos — the layer typically holds for three to six months. If you're after longer durability and stronger protection, you can lay a coat of SONAX Ceramic coating over the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" — the AIO handles the correction, the coating the lasting protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCompared with other polishes — when all-in-one is enough and when it isn't\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a head-to-head with specialised polishes like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP \"03-06\"\u003c\/a\u003e the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the more accessible product: the NP \"03-06\" is a pure finishing polish with no protective content that brings out maximum gloss on pro orbitals or rotary machines — but leaves no seal behind. The Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is weaker on correction but delivers a complete result in one step. For professional detailing jobs where correction, finishing and sealing are done separately, the NP \"03-06\" is the stronger choice. For regular car care and maintenance polishing, the AIO is the more efficient solution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" differs through its modern ceramic-protection content instead of a classic wax component. Wax-based polishes give a warm paint glow with good water repellency, but they're more temperature-sensitive and less chemical-resistant than Si-Carbon layers. If you prefer up-to-date ceramic protection over a carnauba finish, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the better fit. If you love a deep, warm carnauba glow, go for the Polish+Wax line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you wash the car regularly with a coating-friendly shampoo — say the SONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo — you extend the life of the Si-Carbon layer considerably. Alkaline cleaners or aggressive wheel cleaners that get onto the paint can break down the layer's hydrophobicity early. The combination of Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" and Ceramic ActiveShampoo is a care cycle tuned to work together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important difference from classic single-step polishes with no protective content is how dirt behaves after application. On cars with ceramic or Si-Carbon protection, dirt sticks less and comes off more easily at the next wash. That cuts the wash pressure and the friction on the paint, which indirectly lowers the swirls building up for the next polishing step. So the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" sets up a positive spiral: correction plus protection, fewer new scratches, less effort next time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor users who already have a dedicated ceramic coating on the car, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" works as a refresh polish over the life of the protective layer. The abrasives are mild enough not to strip the coating layer entirely, while the Si-Carbon components can regenerate the hydrophobicity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the right choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal product for car owners who want to keep a good daily driver in top condition regularly, without running a multi-stage detailing workflow. If you polish twice a year, you benefit from a product that reduces swirls, lifts gloss and builds a protective layer in one pass. For professional detailers the AIO offers a practical use case at vehicle intake: lightly damaged new cars or used cars in good condition can be prepped quickly with the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" before a ceramic coating goes on as the protective layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish\u003c\/a\u003e comparison shows the positioning too: Cut+Finish is the professional version with more cut, higher concentration and PROFILINE quality standards — for businesses working through many cars a day with different paint conditions. The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is built for the demanding private user and the occasional pro job, looking for a complete result in one step. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 keeps the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" in the range permanently and recommends it as the entry point into the Ceramic care line. If you're unsure whether the AIO is enough for your car or whether you need a two-stage workflow with separate correction and sealing, you can get advice from Detailing1 — based on the paint condition and the protection you want, there's always a fitting product combination. A practical starting point is the fingernail test: if the nail slides over a scratch without catching, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" can correct it. If the nail catches, you need a dedicated cutting product. This simple rule helps you pick the right product for each car without a laborious light inspection. Regular care with the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" every two to four months keeps a well-kept car in a condition close to professional detailing — with minimal time and a product that needs no separate sealing step.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49345418592591,"sku":"D1-SNX-247200","price":18.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur_500ml.png?v=1721579808"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur","title":"PROFILINE MetalPolish Metal Polish (Medium-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBringing tarnished metal back to a mirror shine — with the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish do? This medium-cut metal polish takes tarnish, oxidation, light rust and dullness off aluminium, brass, chrome and stainless steel — and brings metal surfaces back to a near-mirror shine.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolished metal loses its shine over time — oxygen, moisture, UV and airborne acids leave tarnish, oxide layers and that typical dull haze plain cleaning won't shift. That's where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in: a high-gloss polish with a medium cut that uses quality abrasive minerals to take tarnish and oxide layers down gently and expose the mirror-bright surface underneath. The formula runs on every common metal — aluminium, brass, chrome, stainless steel — and does it without harsh acids or alkalis, which can leave corrosion damage on sensitive metal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium cut for a wide working range.\u003c\/strong\u003e The medium-cut lets you polish quickly even on heavily tarnished or dull metal, without taking off too much or damaging more delicate surfaces. For most jobs — exhaust tips, polished aluminium rim beds, chrome trim, stainless steel panels — the medium cut is the right starting point: visible results without pulling off material you don't need to lose.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks on every common metal surface.\u003c\/strong\u003e Aluminium, brass, chrome, stainless steel, copper — the polish runs on all of them with no compatibility headaches. It has proven itself on motorcycle parts, exhaust systems, wheels, boat fittings and polished-metal kitchenware, wherever you need both cleaning power and a proper high-gloss result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-gloss finish straight out of the tube.\u003c\/strong\u003e After polishing you get a near-mirror high-gloss finish that needs no separate follow-up. That saves you a step compared with two-stage systems, where you cut first and then have to come back with a pure finisher — with the PROFILINE MetalPolish the cutting and finishing phases are rolled into one pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results, clean and dry the metal properly before you polish — dirt particles sitting on the surface cut deeper scratches than the abrasive in the polish ever does. Lay the MetalPolish onto a clean, soft cotton cloth or polishing pad and work in small sections with round, overlapping passes. Don't go too thin — the paste should stay visible on the surface until it sets up and goes slightly cloudy. Then buff it off with a clean cloth and check what you've got. Heavily tarnished areas may need a second pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMedium-cut metal polish — how the medium cut actually works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA metal polish works through controlled micro-abrasion: fine abrasive grains in the paste take down the top layer of oxidation, tarnish and micro-scratches while smoothing the metal underneath. The finer the grain, the higher the gloss you can reach, but the longer the working time on badly damaged surfaces. The medium cut of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is a deliberate compromise: strong enough to pull off clear tarnish and moderate oxide layers in one pass, fine enough to lay down a high-gloss finish right away, with no separate finishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive minerals in the formula are picked to work gently on metal and not to remove excessive material. That matters most on thinly plated chrome or coated aluminium: an abrasive that is too aggressive can work straight through the protective layer and expose the base material underneath, which speeds up corrosion. The medium abrasion of the MetalPolish keeps that risk at a controlled level and is matched to the typical thickness of chrome and aluminium plating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is an important conceptual difference to paint polishes like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e: paint polishes are formulated for organic polymer layers (clear coat), metal polishes for inorganic metal surfaces. The abrasive grains are chosen differently, and the carrier paste is matched to how metal grips and conducts heat. These products aren't interchangeable — a paint polish on metal won't give you optimal results, and a metal polish on clear coat can leave scratches depending on how hard the abrasive is. So use the MetalPolish only on bare, unpainted metal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter polishing — once the product you laid down has hazed over and been buffed off with the cloth — the MetalPolish leaves no annoying oily film or residue. The metal comes out fresh, bright and grippy. An optional follow-up seal with a metal protectant or a wax film stretches out how long it takes to tarnish again, and it is well worth it on exterior chrome trim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing metal polish properly — step by step for maximum shine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e works by hand as well as on a rotary machine. By hand: put a hazelnut-sized blob of polish onto a clean cotton cloth, a polishing towel or a soft polishing block. Spread it over the metal in circles or straight lines — not too fast, with even pressure, in small sections of about 20×20 cm. Let the polish sit until it has dried slightly and looks milky-cloudy (typically 30–60 seconds at room temperature), then buff it off with a clean, dry cotton cloth. The result shows immediately: the cloudy residue holds the dissolved oxide and the dirt you have just taken off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn a machine (rotary or dual action): pick a pad that suits your machine — for the MetalPolish a medium-firm polishing pad or a cotton polishing disc does the job. Keep the speed low (rotary: about 1000–1500 rpm, DA: setting 3–4) and move evenly across the surface. Machine polishing on metal saves a lot of time and the mechanical pressure gives you more even results than hand polishing, but it takes a bit more practice to avoid overheating edges and corners. After the machine pass, buff off the same way you would by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHeavily tarnished or deeply oxidised surfaces may need a second pass. Important: after each pass, check with a clean cloth whether you have hit the result you want before you set up more polishing rounds — over-polishing takes off material for nothing without improving the finish any further.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMetal polish applications — where the MetalPolish hits hardest\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe MetalPolish shows its strength anywhere polished metal has gone dull and tired from the weather. On the car: chrome trim, aluminium wheel lips, stainless steel sills, exhaust tips and systems (always work on cold parts!), motorcycle headers, aluminium engine covers and motorsport parts in polished aluminium or titanium. The results are most striking on exhaust systems, which develop the typical tarnish colours under heat — blue, golden brown, purple. In many cases a metal polish takes them off completely or nearly so and gives the exhaust its original metal finish back. On titanium components (racing, high-performance exhausts) the tarnish colours often count as a feature — so think it through before you polish and decide whether you really want the original finish or whether the colours should stay on purpose.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith alloy wheels you need to make one important distinction: bare, uncoated aluminium wheels (rare, but common in the classic-car and motorsport world) can be worked directly with metal polish. Standard new and used car wheels, on the other hand, carry a clear coat or are anodised — keep metal polish off those, because the abrasion attacks the clear coat. The right approach on painted wheels is a paint polish, not a metal polish. If in doubt: test a tiny patch somewhere out of sight before you take on the whole wheel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAway from the car the MetalPolish is just as capable: boat fittings and propellers in brass or stainless steel, stainless railings and handrails, polished brass fittings, historic pieces in silver or bronze, kitchenware in polished stainless steel. Where it runs out of road is painted or anodised metal — those protective layers shouldn't be mechanically polished. Anodised alloy wheels or powder-coated parts are therefore not suitable jobs for a metal polish, whichever product you use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMetal polish compared — PROFILINE MetalPolish vs. XTREME MetalPolish and alternatives\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere are two metal polishes in the SONAX range: the PROFILINE version and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-metalpolish-metallpolitur\"\u003eSONAX XTREME MetalPolish\u003c\/a\u003e. Both take tarnish and oxidation off metal, but they differ in pack size and positioning. The XTREME MetalPolish (150 ml tube) is aimed at hobby detailers and occasional users who prefer a handy pack size for smaller jobs and one-offs. The PROFILINE MetalPolish (250 ml) is built for regular users and businesses who polish more often and want to keep a slightly bigger amount on the shelf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn terms of content, both products use comparable abrasive minerals for the medium cut — the real difference sits less in how they work than in size and positioning: PROFILINE is the pro line for regular use, XTREME the consumer pack for home use. If you work in a business or regularly detail motorcycles, cars or boats, you grab the PROFILINE; if you polish up your wheels or your exhaust now and then, the XTREME MetalPolish serves you just as well.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor special jobs it is worth a look at the rest of the SONAX PROFILINE range: the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/a\u003e is built for glass — scratches and water spots in windscreens or rear windows — and works with cerium oxide abrasive technology on a completely different class of material than the MetalPolish. If you are putting together a full detailing kit that covers both paint and metal work, the SONAX PROFILINE range has the right specialist polish for every material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish — recommendation and who it is for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pick for anyone who polishes metal regularly and wants a reliable, proven pro product for the job. The 250 ml tube goes a long way — one full exhaust system, a whole motorcycle, several pieces of chrome trim — and its medium cut gives you maximum flexibility: from the occasional exhaust refresh to systematically working through a complete vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlongside the polish, a set of good cotton cloths or polishing applicators is worth having for even results when you work by hand. Important: don't use microfibre towels to buff bright polished metal — microfibre loops can leave fine scratches on high-gloss metal that you simply don't get with cotton. For machine polishing, cotton polishing discs or medium-soft foam pads are the right call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want a lasting protective layer after polishing that clearly slows down fresh tarnish, plan a metal-sealing step after the MetalPolish: a thin wax film, a metal protectant oil or in some cases a ceramic coating can stretch the life of that polished look from a few weeks to several months, especially on exterior parts that take the weather. It pays off most on exhaust systems you have put real work into and on motorcycle chrome, where you want the result to last as long as possible. For hobby detailers who polish the odd metal part now and then, the PROFILINE MetalPolish in the 250 ml tube will last many years — the tube goes a long way and the product keeps indefinitely if you store it properly (cool, dry, closed).\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53502874386767,"sku":"D1-SNX-02041410","price":19.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506187526479,"sku":"D1-SNX-2041410_2","price":38.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506187559247,"sku":"D1-SNX-2041410_3","price":58.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur.png?v=1730405721"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish","title":"PROFILINE NP \"03-06\" High-Gloss Polish (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFlawless high gloss as the final polishing step — SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06 do? This fine high-gloss finishing polish pulls out the last holograms and buffer trails, brings up a mirror-like clear-coat shine and gets the paint ready for sealants and ceramic coatings — perfect as the final polishing step after abrasive correction stages.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a multi-stage polishing job, the finishing polish is the real test of skill: it comes after the cutting polish and the medium correction polish, and its job is to clear out the last fine holograms, buffer trails and micro-scratches completely — leaving the clear coat with the kind of depth, clarity and reflection that sells a fresh detail. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro high-gloss finishing polish for exactly this last step: very fine cut, low haze, and a gloss that sets the paint up perfectly for sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUltra-fine cut for hologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 carries very finely milled abrasives that level the buffer trails left by cutting and medium polishes without laying down fresh scratches of their own. What you get is a paint surface with maximum reflection and minimal orange peel — the base for that mirror-deep gloss a freshly detailed car is meant to throw back at you.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBalanced viscosity for machine and hand work.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 is mixed so it runs on rotary and dual-action machines just as well as by hand on small panels. The viscosity lets it spread evenly across the pad, keeps it from slinging during machine work and stops it drying out too fast — which really matters on bigger panels, where you need to keep the working time consistent.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIdeal as a pre-coating step before sealing.\u003c\/strong\u003e A finishing polish before you seal isn't optional if maximum sealant durability and top gloss are the goal. The NP 03-06 leaves no protective film and no waxy fillers — once it's done, the clear coat is ready for the degrease step and the sealant, with no abrasive residue getting in the way of coating adhesion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 gives its best with a finishing foam pad on a dual-action machine — speed 3–4 (depending on the model), slow, overlapping passes. For the last pass, drop the speed to 2–3 to keep heat down and even the result out. Dose the polish sparingly: a small amount on the pad, spread it by working it in slowly by hand, then switch the machine on. After polishing, buff the area off with a clean microfibre and check for holograms straight away — under raking light (side light) you'll spot any leftover buffer trails most clearly. Once that check passes, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e follows as the degrease step before sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAbrasive technology: how the NP 03-06 high-gloss finishing polish clears holograms\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA finishing polish works by mechanical micro-abrasion: the finely milled abrasives in the high-gloss polish cut the clear-coat surface at micrometre level, smoothing out the grooves and scratch marks left by earlier polishing stages and creating a surface that's as flat and uniform as possible. Light hitting a flat surface bounces back evenly — that's the physics behind the so-called depth gloss and the mirror reflection you see after a successful finishing polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cut of the NP 03-06 is pitched just right for the final polishing stage: fine enough not to lay down new holograms, but still strong enough to clear out the buffer trails from the preceding medium correction polish completely. That balancing act is typical of finishing polishes — too fine a cut won't fully remove buffer trails, too coarse a cut creates holograms of its own that need another finishing pass to fix. The NP 03-06 carries the \"03-06\" in its name, which marks where it sits in the SONAX polishing range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother upside of finishing-polish technology is what detailers call \"darkening\" — on dark paint (black, dark blue, dark grey) a noticeably deeper colour comes up after the finishing polish, because the surface is so flat and clear that more light gets into the paint and reflects back. The effect is less dramatic on light colours, but still clearly there: the paint looks fresher, livelier and more even than before. On cars with black or dark paint especially, the finishing polish is the most visible step in the whole detail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the NP 03-06 right — pad, machine and technique for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe finishing polish assumes the prep is fully done: dirt, fallout and tar removed (decon step), the paint prepped with a correction polish, and the surface clean and dry. A finishing polish on an unprepped, heavily scratched surface can't clear the fine scratches completely — the step only pays off when the stages before it were done right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad choice: for machine work, finishing foam pads (soft, no cut of their own) carry the polish's fine abrasives evenly onto the surface without adding any cut. Hard foam pads or microfibre pads with their own cut aren't ideal for a pure finishing polish — the NP 03-06 is built for soft finishing pads. For hand work, use a soft, clean applicator — on small areas (headlights, small dent zones) the polish works well by hand too, but on large panels machine work is a must for an even result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTechnique: lay the polish down, spread it at the lowest speed, then run several overlapping passes across the panel at medium speed. The last pass goes at a slightly reduced speed and light pressure — this final pass levels the faint cross-marks the polishing leaves behind. Watch the dry-down: if the polish flashes off too fast (in the sun, on hot paint) it won't work properly — ideally polish in the garage or in the shade. After buffing off with microfibre, check for holograms straight away — any leftover buffer trails show up best under side-on artificial light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the NP 03-06 fits — when a finishing polish is the right step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe NP 03-06 is the final polishing step before any sealant or ceramic coating. You reach for it when there are still fine buffer trails or holograms left after the correction polish that need clearing before you seal. Typically the NP 03-06 is step 3 or 4 in a multi-stage polishing job: after the cutting polish (hard pad + cutting compound) and the correction polish (medium pad + medium polish) comes the finishing polish as the last abrasive step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn cars that don't need heavy correction (nearly new paint, or paint with very fine swirl marks only visible at an angle), the NP 03-06 can also run as the only polishing stage — a so-called \"one-step finish\". Here you pair a lightly cutting pad (combo pad) with the finishing polish to knock back light swirl marks and bring up maximum gloss in one go. That approach saves time, but it isn't enough for deeper scratches and heavier holograms — there a multi-stage process with a proper correction polish is unavoidable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn delicate cars with a thin clear coat (often older cars after several previous-owner polishes, or certain makes like Porsche and some BMW models) the finishing polish is especially valuable, because it gets by with minimal paint removal — the light cut clears only the buffer trails, without taking off more clear coat than needed. Paint-depth readings before the job help judge how many polishing passes still make sense without thinning the clear coat too far.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eNP 03-06 vs. PerfectFinish — which finishing polish for which job?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range has two finishing polishes for different demands. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\"\u003c\/a\u003e sits as the more aggressive finishing polish with a slightly higher cut — it's built especially for use after P2000 sandpaper (hence the \"up to P2000\" tag) and suits situations where a bit more cut is needed after sanding to clear the sanding marks completely. The NP 03-06, by contrast, is the finer finishing polish for the last step after the polishing correction stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn practice: if you're polishing after wet sanding (e.g. after removing a deep dent or a respray), you pick the PerfectFinish as the first polishing step and optionally the NP 03-06 as the final hologram removal. If you've worked a normal detail without sanding using a correction polish, you only need the NP 03-06 for the finish step. For detailers who want both scenarios covered day-to-day, having both polishes on hand makes sense — the PerfectFinish for sanding-heavy work, the NP 03-06 for pure high-gloss finish steps after polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn pad compatibility and machine suitability the two finishing polishes are similar — the call comes down mainly to the cut you want and the prep stage before it. For maximum flexibility in a pro setup we recommend keeping both polishes available, since the exact state of a car often only becomes clear on the lift and under correction lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06 — bottle sizes and value\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in three sizes: 250 ml for beginners and occasional use, 1 litre for regular detailers and pro detailing businesses, and 5 litres for high-throughput operations or for training sessions. The price per millilitre drops noticeably with the bigger bottle — for businesses polishing several cars a week, the 1-litre or 5-litre size is the most economical choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePer application on an average car (saloon or compact) you'll use about 15–30 ml of polish, depending on the number of passes and the pad size. The 1-litre bottle covers around 30–60 full car polishes that way — excellent value for regular use. The 250-ml bottle suits beginners who want to get to know the polish first, or special jobs on small areas (bonnet, roof, single panels after a spot repair).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a complete finish workflow we recommend: NP 03-06 (high-gloss finishing polish) → \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e (degrease\/panel wipe) → \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a ceramic coating. This three-step finishing workflow makes sure the paint glosses to the max after the detail, is fully degreased and stays protected long-term under a quality sealant — the standard for professional detailing results.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53506699362639,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53506660401487,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000","price":38.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53506660499791,"sku":"D1-SNX-2085000","price":95.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699395407,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699428175,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506660434255,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_2","price":76.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506660467023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_3","price":115.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish.png?v=1730477476"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur","title":"PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\" Finish Polish (up to P2000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove sanding marks after P2000 and bring up a deep gloss — SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish do? The \"4\/6\" finish polish pulls out sanding marks up to P2000 grit with no residue, levels the paint after wet-sanding and brings up a mirror-deep gloss — the go-to first polishing step after wet or dry sanding on paint correction and spot repairs.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn pro paint sanding and when you're chasing out deep paint damage, the jump from sandpaper to polish is the step that makes or breaks the job: wet-sanding with P1500 or P2000 takes off orange peel, deep scratches or paint runs, but it leaves the typical sanding haze (the \"holy spirit\" pattern) that has to come out completely before you seal. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro finish polish built for exactly this hand-off: cutty enough to clear P2000 sanding marks completely, fine enough to lay down a glass-clear, hologram-free gloss while it does.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt specifically for use after wet-sanding up to P2000.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cut of the PerfectFinish is dialled to the \"4\/6\" range on the SONAX scale — meaning: strong enough to level the micro-grooves left by P1500–P2000 paper, without throwing down fresh deep holograms that would force another finish step. In a lot of cases the PerfectFinish is the only polishing step you need after wet-sanding to get the surface seal-ready.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMade for machine polishing with rotary and dual-action machines.\u003c\/strong\u003e The PerfectFinish formula is tuned for the machine: even viscosity so it spreads nicely on the pad, enough working time at moderate temperatures, and a flash-off phase that makes the result easy to read. It works with rotary machines (more cut, for heavier sanding marks) as well as dual-action machines (less heat build-up, for that final finishing pass).\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLeaves clearcoat that's seal-ready straight away.\u003c\/strong\u003e Once you've buffed off the PerfectFinish the surface is free of sanding marks, holograms and polishing-oil residue — the clearcoat sits in a state that's ready for a sealant or ceramic coating right after a panel-wipe step. That straight-to-seal readiness is what separates a good finish polish from a mediocre one that leaves fine residue behind after the buff.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The PerfectFinish gives its best with a medium-hard combo pad on the rotary or a lightly abrasive foam pad on the dual-action — depends how heavy the sanding marks are. After sanding, rinse the panel with clean water and let it dry fully before you lay the polish down. Spread it at low speed first, then run several overlapping passes at medium speed. Drop the speed for the last pass to get an even, hologram-free result. After buffing, degrease with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to pull every bit of polishing oil before you seal. On very deep sanding marks (P1000 or coarser) we'd run an intermediate step with a medium-cut correction stage first, then bring in the PerfectFinish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe PerfectFinish abrasive tech — what \"up to P2000\" means in paint sanding\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"up to P2000\" label in the description of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is an important spec: it tells you up to which sandpaper grit the polish can clear the resulting sanding marks completely. P2000 paper has a very fine grit (2000 works out to a mean particle size of about 10 microns) and leaves correspondingly fine sanding marks. P1500 leaves slightly deeper grooves (mean particle size about 13 microns), P1000 deeper still (about 18 microns).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEach of these grits leaves sanding marks with a typical depth and width — and the polish has to be able to level those grooves through its abrasive particles. The PerfectFinish carries abrasives whose size and hardness are dialled so they level P2000 grooves effectively. For deeper grooves (P1000 and coarser) the PerfectFinish would need several passes or simply isn't enough — here you're better off with a cuttier correction stage that brings the grooves down to P2000 level first, then the PerfectFinish. This step principle holds for every polishing and sanding process: each stage works the grooves of the one before it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"4\/6\" rating on the SONAX scale puts the PerfectFinish as a medium-fine finish polish: cuttier than a pure high-gloss finish polish, but finer than typical correction-stage polishes. That spot makes the PerfectFinish unusually versatile: it works both as the only polishing step after fine wet-sanding and as the second-to-last step before a further high-gloss finish polish such as the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e. Which way is better depends on the result you want, the state of the car and the time you've got.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe physics behind the jump from sanding to polishing is blending: every sanding or polishing stage lays down a new, finer pattern of grooves that overlays the pattern of the stage before. When the new pattern is finer than light's refractive-index threshold, the surface reads as optically smooth. The PerfectFinish reworks the P2000 grooves with abrasives so fine that the surface micro-structures left after polishing sit below what the human eye can pick up — so the surface comes off looking glossy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing PerfectFinish right — pad choice and technique for the best result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the finish polish starts with the right pad, and that's what decides the result. For use after wet-sanding (P1500–P2000) reach for combo pads with a touch of their own cut, which back up the PerfectFinish's correction power and let you clear sanding marks in a few passes. For use as a second finish step after a correction stage, softer finish pads are the call — they level the light polishing marks left behind. Pad hardness drives the effective cut directly: a hard pad with a medium-cut polish like the PerfectFinish can land roughly the same overall as a soft pad with a more aggressive polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMachine choice: the rotary gives you more cut on sanding marks than the dual-action and is the faster option on heavy P1500 marks. The dual-action keeps heat down and is the better call on delicate paint or as a finishing step to minimise holograms. A lot of pros run the PerfectFinish as a combo: first rounds on the rotary at medium speed to clear the sanding marks, last pass on the dual-action at low speed for that hologram-free deep gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChecking the result: read your polishing work under correction light (an LED panel light or daylight at a low angle). Leftover sanding marks show up under this light as parallel line patterns, holograms as random swirl patterns. If P2000 marks are still showing after several passes with the PerfectFinish, you've either got too little pad pressure, too low a speed or the wrong pad — a common slip-up is switching to too soft a pad too early, one that doesn't level the marks enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the PerfectFinish earns its keep — paint correction, spot repair and respray\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is hard to do without across several pro jobs. Paint residue and runs after a respray: fresh paint sometimes throws runs, sags and orange-peel that you take off mechanically by sanding and polishing. Wet-sanding with P2000 levels the surface, and the PerfectFinish brings the gloss to its finished level — a standard workflow in body and paint shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDeep single scratches and stone-chip follow-up: after a spot repair (sanding out and partial respray) you have to buff the repaired patch and bring it up to the gloss level of the surrounding panel. The PerfectFinish is the right tool for that transition zone: it clears the spot-repair sanding marks and lays down a gloss that blends seamlessly into the surrounding paint. On small repair patches you can also work the PerfectFinish by hand with an applicator when the repair spot is too small for the machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGeneral paint correction on badly knocked-about cars: on cars with deep swirl marks, heavy holograms or mechanical damage you need a multi-stage process — a coarse correction stage for the main work, then the PerfectFinish for the hand-off to deep gloss. In this context the PerfectFinish replaces the separate sanding-and-finish combo once the previous stage has already brought things to P1500–P2000 level. For this broad use the 5-litre size is especially handy for shops with high polishing volume.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePerfectFinish vs. NP 03-06 — which finish polish for which job\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common question when buying a finish polish from the SONAX PROFILINE range: when PerfectFinish, when \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e? The answer is in the prep before it: the PerfectFinish \"4\/6\" is built for situations where the surface was sanded before polishing (P1500–P2000 wet-sanding) and heavier sanding marks are sitting there. The NP 03-06, on the other hand, is the finer finish polish for the last step after a correction polish — when there are no sanding marks, just light polishing marks and holograms from the previous polishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePut plainly: if a car comes in for polishing after a respray or after wet-sanding, the PerfectFinish is the first polishing step. If a car comes in for finishing after a normal cutty correction stage (polishing with no prior sanding), the NP 03-06 is the right step. For detailers who want to cover both scenarios we'd say keep both polishes on hand — the car and its prep decide which one comes out. In a two-stage combo (PerfectFinish after sanding, then NP 03-06 as the last finish) you can pull a standout result on paint that needs maximum gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners who only want to buy one finish polish: the NP 03-06 is the safer all-rounder for cars with no prior sanding. The PerfectFinish is a must on cars with prior wet-sanding — on cars with no sanding marks you can run it too, but it takes more passes than the NP 03-06 to land a hologram-free result. So the PerfectFinish earns its place on sanding-mark know-how, not on pure gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish — sizes and getting your money's worth\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1 litre and 5 litre, plus 2-pack and 3-pack sets. The 250 ml size suits beginners and occasional users, and works for sizing up the polish before a bigger order. The 1 litre is the most economical standard size for regular detailers and smaller prep shops — a litre runs to about 30–50 full car polishes. The 5 litre is aimed at body shops, paint shops and detailing shops with high polishing volume that use the polish daily and need the lowest price per litre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that run wet-sanding as a regular part of the service (paint correction, respray buffing, spot repair), the PerfectFinish is a must-have part of the polishing kit. Paired with the NP 03-06 for the final high-gloss finish, the Prepare for the panel-wipe step and a sealant, the PerfectFinish covers the full post-sanding workflow. That workflow is a pro standard in body shops and high-end detailing shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line, the SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish is the product for every situation where you need to clear sanding marks up to P2000 and bring up a deep gloss. If you regularly run wet-sand prep jobs, buff out spot repairs or bring resprays up to gloss, you need the PerfectFinish as a fixed part of your kit — it closes the gap between sandpaper and high-gloss finish polish precisely and reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53506852782415,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410","price":20.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53506852815183,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000","price":57.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53506852847951,"sku":"D1-SNX-2245000","price":177.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506852880719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410_2","price":40.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506852913487,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410_3","price":61.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506852946255,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000_2","price":114.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506852979023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000_3","price":172.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur.png?v=1730639593"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur","title":"PROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\" One-Step Polish (up to P1500)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove sanding marks and get high gloss in one step with SONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can SONAX Cut+Finish do? A one-step polish with maximum cut (5\/5) and maximum gloss (5\/5) — it pulls out sanding marks up to P1500 and lays down a high-gloss finish in a single pass, silicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional paint correction there's one situation that keeps coming back: the paint has been wet-sanded — whether to fix a defect, after a spot-repair respray, or to knock down orange peel — and now the sanding marks have to go. Normally that means two steps: a cutting compound to take down the marks, then a finishing polish for the gloss. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e rolls both steps into one product. With a cut rating of 5\/5 and a gloss rating of 5\/5, it removes sanding marks from paper up to P1500 grit and leaves a high-gloss, hologram-free surface in a single pass. For workshops and detailers who need to get from sanding to a sale-ready result fast, that's a serious time-saver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut at maximum gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e A 5\/5 for cut and a 5\/5 for finish is unique in the SONAX PROFILINE range — no other product in the line hits the top mark in both categories. The special abrasive blend breaks down progressively as you polish: it starts aggressive to take down the sanding marks, then ends with a fine break-down that builds the gloss. That behaviour is exactly why a single pass does the job where other products need two separate steps.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and workshop-ready.\u003c\/strong\u003e In a bodyshop, being silicone-free isn't optional, it's mandatory. Silicone-bearing polishes can cause craters and fish-eyes on a respray — a problem that only shows up after the paint goes on and then writes off the whole job. So Cut+Finish is deliberately formulated silicone-free and can be used right next to the spray booth with no contamination risk.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow-dust working with a long open time.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polish stays wet and workable through the whole pass without dusting or drying out. That long open time gives you the freedom to extend the pass when the paint calls for it — with no worry about polish dust settling into shut-lines and trim gaps. The wipe-off afterwards comes away in one go, no re-cleaning needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run Cut+Finish on a rotary with a medium-hard to hard foam pad (orange or white in the SONAX colour system). Start at 1200 to 1500 rpm and step up gradually to a maximum of 1800 rpm if you need it. Drop three or four pea-sized dots onto the pad, spread the polish at low speed and work in rows with about 50 percent overlap. Polish each section until the polish goes clear — that's the moment the abrasives have fully broken down and the gloss comes up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut 5\/5 and gloss 5\/5 — how Cut+Finish pulls off both in one step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe secret of \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is in the abrasive technology: the abrasive particles in the formula are built to break down progressively under pressure and heat. At the start of the pass the particles are big enough to take down the coarse sanding marks from P1500 paper — a job normally reserved for a dedicated cutting compound. As the pass goes on, the particles break into finer and finer fragments, until they're small enough to polish the surface to a high gloss without leaving fresh micro-scratches behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat progressive break-down is the reason the polish needs a full pass to show what it can do. Stop too early — say after thirty seconds instead of two minutes per section — and you stay stuck in the cutting stage: you get the coarse marks out, but no gloss. The pass is only done once the polish goes clear on the paint and the typical shine shows up. Reading that point takes a little experience, but after the first two or three panels you'll have the feel for it down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne common misconception: some users think a 5\/5 polish is more aggressive than a pure cutting compound like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX CutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/a\u003e. It's the other way around — CutMax has more cut at 6\/4 and can take down coarser defects, such as sanding marks from P1000 paper. Cut+Finish starts at P1500 and reaches the same gloss result you'd otherwise only get with an extra finishing step. If you need to sand coarser, you need CutMax as the first step — Cut+Finish is then the fast one-step solution for lighter to medium sanding work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a one-step polish properly — machine type, pad choice and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is built primarily for rotary polishers. Here's why: a rotary, with its pure rotating action, builds more heat and friction than a dual-action machine — exactly the energy the progressive abrasive break-down needs to run the full spectrum from cut to high gloss. It works on a dual-action machine too, just with reduced cut: the eccentric action builds less heat, so the particles break down slower and the pass takes longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epad choice\u003c\/strong\u003e drives the result more than anything. On a hard pad (white or orange) Cut+Finish gives you its full cut — ideal for working a panel after wet-sanding. On a medium-hard pad the cut is more moderate, enough for refreshing weathered paint without sanding first. On a soft finishing pad the polish loses too much cut and no longer reaches the performance it was built for — for pure finish polishing there are better-suited products like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish (4\/6)\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the application: drop three or four pea-sized dots of polish onto the pad, spread them at low speed over the panel and then bring it up to working speed. Work in rows with about fifty percent overlap across the whole section until the polish goes clear. A typical section — say half a bonnet — takes two to three minutes on a rotary. Wipe the polish residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED lamp: if there are still sanding marks visible, repeat the pass with a bit more pressure or a higher speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you polish large areas — bonnet, roof, side panels — getting the pressure right is the key. Hold the machine so the pad sits evenly on the surface and let the weight of the machine do the work. Extra pressure from above does raise the cut, but it also builds more heat and can cause holograms on sensitive paint — exactly what Cut+Finish is meant to avoid. If you still see defects after one pass, a second pass at the same pressure beats a single pass with too much pressure.\n\nAfter polishing, it's worth degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to strip the last of the polish residue. Under the Prepare control spray the real result shows up — without polishing oils and fillers that can visually mask defects. That step matters especially if a ceramic coating or paint protection film is going on afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRemoving sanding marks after wet-sanding — the ideal jobs for Cut+Finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the follow-up after wet-sanding with P1200 to P1500 paper. Day-to-day you'll run into that in a few scenarios:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003espot-repair follow-up\u003c\/strong\u003e in the bodyshop, blend-ins and touch-up areas get wet-sanded first to level the paint and knock down orange peel. Cut+Finish takes the sanding marks out in one pass and brings the repaired area up to the gloss level of the surrounding original paint — without a second polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003enew-car prep\u003c\/strong\u003e, plenty of vehicles come from the factory with light orange peel and transport scratches. A careful wet-sand with P1500 levels the surface, and Cut+Finish brings the gloss back. Here the silicone-free formula plays an important role: should the new car need a respray inside the warranty period, the silicone-free polish causes no problems with the repaint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003eclassic-car restoration\u003c\/strong\u003e or the recovery of badly weathered paint, Cut+Finish is enough on its own in many cases, as long as the weathering doesn't run too deep. On original stove-baked paint, which is often softer than modern water-based finishes, Cut+Finish offers enough cut to take down the oxidised layer and enough finish to bring the gloss underneath back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother scenario that comes up a lot day-to-day: \u003cstrong\u003escratch removal without sanding first.\u003c\/strong\u003e Not every scratch needs the sandpaper. Surface scratches that sit only in the clearcoat and disappear when the surface is wet can be polished out directly with Cut+Finish. The 5\/5 cut is enough to take down the damaged clearcoat layer far enough for the scratch to disappear — and the 5\/5 gloss makes sure the spot doesn't end up looking duller than the surrounding paint afterwards. For this job a medium-hard pad beats the hard pad, so you keep the cut more controlled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere Cut+Finish hits its limits: on sanding marks from P1000 and coarser it doesn't have the cut to take them out fully in one pass. Here CutMax (6\/4) is the better choice as a first step, followed by a finish with PerfectFinish or the NP 03-06. Cut+Finish is no replacement for a dedicated cutting compound on heavy defect removal — it's the one-step solution for the P1200 to P1500 range, where it plays its strength in full. On extremely hard ceramic clearcoats too, like the ones some German premium makers use, Cut+Finish can need more passes than on softer Japanese or Korean paint systems — the abrasives break down slower on the hard substrate, and the polishing process takes correspondingly longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne-step polish comparison — Cut+Finish vs. CutMax vs. PerfectFinish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range, Cut+Finish, CutMax and PerfectFinish form a logical gradient that covers different needs:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pure cutting compound — maximum cut (6\/5), moderate gloss (4\/5). It comes out when coarse defects like P1000 sanding marks, deep scratches or heavy weathering have to be taken down. After CutMax a finishing step is nearly always needed, because the gloss result alone isn't enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePerfectFinish (4\/6)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the counterpart: moderate cut (4\/5), maximum gloss (6\/5). It's built for the finishing step after a cutting compound and creates the last bit of high gloss needed for concours results and showroom quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits right in the middle and is the all-rounder: it manages the cut of a medium cutting compound and the gloss of a good finishing polish in a single pass. The upside is obvious — time saved, fewer pad changes, less polish residue. The downside: if you have to push to the extremes — heaviest defect removal or that absolute last bit of high gloss — you're better served by the two-step approach of CutMax and PerfectFinish. For an estimated seventy percent of the day-to-day polishing work in workshop and detailing, Cut+Finish is plenty as the only polish you need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst polishes from other makers, Cut+Finish positions itself as the workshop-focused solution: the silicone-free formula, the low-dust working and the long open time are properties that make the difference in daily workshop use. Hobby detailers who polish once a year notice these upsides less — for them what counts above all is the end result. In a workshop polishing ten to fifteen vehicles a week, though, these upsides add up to a tangible efficiency gain: less cleanup thanks to no dust, no contamination risk thanks to being silicone-free, less wasted product thanks to the controlled consistency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a one-step polish — bottle sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. For getting started or the occasional job on your own car, the 250 ml bottle is enough — that polishes a whole vehicle and leaves you a reserve for touch-ups. For workshops and professional detailers polishing every day, the 1000 ml bottle is the more economical pick: the price per litre drops noticeably and you reorder less often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the optimal workflow we recommend the combination: Cut+Finish as the main polish, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for result checking and degreasing, and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e as the final sealant. This trio covers the whole process from defect correction to long-term protection — in three steps instead of the five or six a multi-stage process with separate cutting and finishing polishes would need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith several vehicles a day a further upside of Cut+Finish shows up: you only need one product and one set of pads, instead of switching between cutting and finishing polish. That cuts not just the setup time but also the risk of mix-ups — in a workshop where several people polish, a simple one-product system is less error-prone than a three-stage process with different polishes and pad combinations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical note on storage: Cut+Finish can separate slightly when it stands for a while — the abrasives settle at the bottom. Shake the bottle well before every use until the consistency is evenly creamy. Store the product frost-free and sealed, and it keeps its full performance over the whole shelf life. Frozen polish loses its homogeneous consistency and won't work evenly anymore even after it thaws.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53519485403471,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410","price":21.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53519485436239,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000","price":63.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53519485501775,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410_2","price":42.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53519485534543,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410_3","price":64.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519485567311,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000_2","price":126.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519485600079,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000_3","price":190.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur.png?v=1730642087"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE UltimateCut \"6+\/3\" Cutting Compound (up to P1000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClearing deep scratches and P1000 sanding marks the professional way — SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut do? The strongest cutting compound in the PROFILINE polish range takes out deep scratches, heavy swirl marks and sanding marks down to P1000 grit — for serious paint correction before you finish-polish.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDeep isolated scratches, swirl marks all over the panel after years of neglect, paint runs after a respray or sanding marks from P800–P1000 paper: these are too much for a normal correction polish. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e is the answer to those extremes: the strongest cutting polish in the PROFILINE range, rated „6+\/3\" — maximum abrasiveness for maximum correction, built for professional work on badly damaged paint where milder products give up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cutting power for the heaviest paint correction.\u003c\/strong\u003e Rated „6+\/3\", the UltimateCut is the most abrasive product in the SONAX PROFILINE polish line. The coarse abrasive particles can level P1000 sanding marks completely in a few machine passes — a job that milder polishes like the PerfectFinish or the OS polishes would need far more passes for, or fail at entirely. That cutting power brings your working time on badly damaged paint right down.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDesigned for rotary polishers and fast dual-action polishers.\u003c\/strong\u003e The UltimateCut is built for heavy-duty machine work — with rotary polishers (DA polisher) and fast dual-action polishers with a big throw. By hand it's barely effective at this cut level; you need the mechanical energy of the machine to fully activate the coarse abrasives and get an even correction. Heavy-duty work is what it's for.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSlots into the multi-stage PROFILINE polishing process.\u003c\/strong\u003e The UltimateCut is designed as step one in a multi-stage polishing process: after the UltimateCut step (maximum correction) you typically go to a medium correction stage (e.g. FS 05-04) and then a finishing stage (PerfectFinish or NP 03-06). That staged process makes sure any polishing marks left after the most aggressive step are fully removed by the following stages before you seal the surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Only reach for the UltimateCut where the damage really calls for it — too much cut on thin paint pulls off more material than you need and puts the clear coat at risk. Take paint thickness readings before you start, so you've got enough material for the full multi-stage job. Start with a hard, abrasive pad (wool pad or hard foam) on the rotary at medium speed (3–4). After the UltimateCut step, check the panel for leftover polishing marks and carry on with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e as the next stage. For the final high-gloss finish, follow up with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e. Swap the pad between stages — you don't want abrasives from different stages mixing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUltimateCut abrasive tech — what \"6+\/3\" and \"up to P1000\" mean in the polishing process\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe „6+\/3\" and „up to P1000\" labels in the spec sheet of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e tell you a lot about where it sits and what it's for. „6+\/3\" describes its abrasive position in the SONAX polish hierarchy: higher numbers mean more aggressive cut. With „6+\/3\" the UltimateCut sits at the top end of that scale — the first three digits describe the cutting power in use, and the format is a specific Sonax in-house classification method.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe „up to P1000\" figure is the spec that matters most day to day: it tells you the UltimateCut can fully level the sanding marks left by P1000 paper. P1000 is a medium-coarse grit (particle size about 18 microns) that's typically the first grit you reach for when wet-sanding out paint runs, orange peel after a respray or deep scratches. Marks that deep are too much for fine correction polishes (NP 03-06, PerfectFinish) — they need the cut of the UltimateCut to bring them down to a level the following stages can work with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasives in the UltimateCut have a controlled particle size that delivers the heavy correction without cutting uncontrolled deep scratches of its own. Modern compounds often use abrasives that break down into smaller particles as you work them — this „diminishing abrasive\" effect means the polish is very aggressive at the start (coarse particles) and gets milder towards the end of the pass (broken-down, smaller particles). That reduces the depth of the polishing marks left behind and makes the next stage easier. The UltimateCut formula uses that principle to leave a surface after the correction step that you can take on with a medium-cut polish or straight to the PerfectFinish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe lubrication of the UltimateCut formula plays a decisive supporting role: a cutting compound doesn't just have to be abrasive, it has to feed the pad enough lube so the machine's mechanical energy turns into abrasion under control instead of heat. Dry formulas cut well for a moment but overheat fast, and with too little lube they can leave dry-buff marks on the paint. The UltimateCut is balanced between cut and lubrication so it holds up over long passes at full tilt. On big vehicles (SUVs, vans, heavy saloons) that balance matters even more, because the whole job takes considerably longer than on a compact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing to watch with high-cut compounds like the UltimateCut is heat input: heavy cut under machine work builds serious heat where the pad meets the paint. Overheated paint can burn (orange-brown discolouration), soften, or crack from thermal stress. So: rotary at a moderate speed, enough product on the pad (lubrication keeps the heat down), and check the panel temperature regularly between passes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the UltimateCut properly — machine, pad and the multi-stage process\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorking with a cutting compound starts with the machine: for maximum cut on deep scratches and P1000 sanding marks the rotary polisher (single action, SA) is first choice — it gives you more torque and more material removal than a dual-action. If you only have a DA, go for a hard foam pad or a hybrid wool pad and several intensive passes — the result is fine, just slower than with the rotary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad choice: the UltimateCut wants hard or medium-hard abrasive pads (wool pads, hybrid wool pads or hard foam). Soft finishing pads bring the abrasive performance right down and shouldn't be used with the UltimateCut. Clean the pad of old polish residue with a pad washer or a towel before you start — particles from a previous stage still sitting in the pad can put scratches in during the UltimateCut step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOrder of work: spread a small amount of UltimateCut over the pad, spread it at low speed, then run intensive overlapping passes across the panel at medium to high speed. The polish dries fairly quickly — at room temperature and normal humidity you work section by section. After the UltimateCut step: wipe the residue off completely with a microfibre towel and check the surface under correction light for leftover sanding marks. If P1000 traces are still showing, repeat the UltimateCut step. If not, move on to the next polishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the UltimateCut earns its keep — when you need maximum correction\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e comes out when milder polishes are out of their depth. Wet-sanding after a respray: after paint work in a workshop or body shop, fresh paint often shows orange peel, runs or inclusions. Those get levelled mechanically by wet-sanding with P800–P1000. The deep sanding marks that leaves are the classic job for the UltimateCut as the first polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBadly damaged older paint: cars that haven't been polished in years, showing heavy swirl marks across the panels, deep individual scratches from the wash bay or oxidation, need maximum correction to get back to a presentable level of gloss. The UltimateCut is the powerful first step there, bringing the damage down to a level that correction polishes can refine further. On badly damaged paint you often need the full combination of UltimateCut + FS 05-04 + PerfectFinish + NP 03-06.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpot repairs and blending areas: with spot resprays the repair has to be polished out and brought up to the gloss level of the surrounding paint. Depending on the grit of the paper used, the UltimateCut is needed as the first polishing step. In transition and blending areas you go gentler, so you don't take too much material off the surrounding paint that's already in good shape — here you keep the UltimateCut strictly on the repair itself, not on the blend.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCars with very thick clear coats (factory paint from the early 2000s or certain classic car resprays) will take repeated intensive work with the UltimateCut without getting into risky paint thickness territory. Modern cars with thinner clear coats (especially Asian brands and a few German manufacturers with special paints) need the abrasive energy dosed more carefully — one or two machine passes, then a thickness reading before you go on. That controlled approach isn't over-caution, it's professional standard for paint correction that lasts and doesn't compromise the car for future work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe UltimateCut in the polishing pyramid — position and combination strategies\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE polish line covers a full abrasive hierarchy for every level of damage. At the top of the cut scale sits the \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e as the cutting compound, followed by the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/a\u003e as the medium-cut correction stage. The finishing stages are the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e (after wet-sanding) and the NP 03-06 (finest high-gloss finish). That polishing pyramid lets you work any level of damage up in stages to a flawless gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers and reconditioning outfits running the full PROFILINE polish system, the decision logic is clear: scratch depth decides where you enter the pyramid. Damage deeper than P1000 → UltimateCut to start. Damage between P1500 and P2000 → PerfectFinish to start. Fine swirl marks only → NP 03-06 or OS 02-06 as a single stage. Working systematically by level of damage is professional standard: it saves time and stops you over-polishing the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with third-party cutting compounds, the UltimateCut has the advantage of system compatibility as a PROFILINE product: it's matched to the PROFILINE stages that follow and leaves a surface after the correction step that those products can take on ideally. You can mix cutting compounds from other makers with PROFILINE finishing polishes, but then the particle sizes aren't guaranteed to line up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut — sizes and what to pick\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1 litre and 5 litre, plus 2-packs and 3-packs. The 250 ml bottle suits beginners and occasional users, the 1 litre is for regular professional work, and the 5 litre is for body shops and high-throughput polishing operations. A full paint correction on one car takes about 20–50 ml of UltimateCut depending on paint condition and vehicle size — so a 1 litre bottle covers 20–50 full jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe UltimateCut belongs in the kit of every body shop and every detailer who offers paint correction after wet-sanding or heavy swirl removal as a service. It's not an everyday product for routine maintenance details, it's the specialist tool for the cases where you genuinely need maximum correction. The money you put into the UltimateCut comes back in far shorter working times on difficult paint — which feeds straight into how profitable your paint correction work is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn short, the SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut is the strongest correction tool in the PROFILINE polish range for every situation where milder polishes don't cut it. If you regularly polish out resprays, work on after P1000 wet-sanding or correct badly damaged older paint, the UltimateCut gives you the power and efficiency those demanding jobs need.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53519971909967,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410","price":23.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53519971942735,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000","price":68.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53519971975503,"sku":"D1-SNX-2395000","price":223.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53519972008271,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410_2","price":46.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53519972041039,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410_3","price":70.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519972073807,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000_2","price":136.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519972106575,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000_3","price":205.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur.png?v=1730646033"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur","title":"PROFILINE EX \"04-06\" High-Gloss Polish (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHologram-free high-gloss finish with the SONAX EX 04-06 polish for dual-action machines\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX EX 04-06 do? A finishing polish with cut level 4 and gloss level 6 — built specifically for dual-action machines, it pulls out light paint defects and lays down a hologram-free high-gloss finish in a single pass, silicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDual-action machines are the go-to for a lot of detailers because they're safer to handle than rotaries — less heat build-up, less risk of holograms, less chance of burning through the clear coat. The catch: not every polish is built for the dual-action motion. Plenty of polishes that work brilliantly on the rotary only deliver a fraction of their power on a DA, because the lower heat slows the abrasive breakdown. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e was developed specifically for this machine type: its abrasive blend breaks down reliably even at the lower friction energy of a dual-action machine, and with a cut of 4\/5 and a gloss of 6\/5 it gets you a result on the DA that's almost identical to a two-step process of cutting and finishing polish on the rotary. If you work with a dual-action machine and want to correct light to medium paint defects, the EX 04-06 is the obvious pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for the dual-action motion.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formulation of the EX 04-06 is tuned to the specific kinematics of dual-action machines. The abrasive particles break down at lower temperature and lower pressure than with classic rotary polishes — meaning you get the full power on the DA without having to lean in. That behaviour makes the EX 04-06 especially beginner-friendly: even without years of polishing experience, moderate pressure and a mid-range speed get you a professional result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The gloss level of 6\/5 — the top mark in the SONAX system — means the polish leaves a finish that's free of holograms, swirls and buffer marks. On dark paint, where every defect shows up straight away, this is the point that matters. The EX 04-06 produces a result on black or dark-blue paint that stays flawless even under direct sunlight and LED inspection light.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and bodyshop-safe.\u003c\/strong\u003e Like all SONAX PROFILINE polishes, the EX 04-06 is silicone-free. In bodyshops that polish and paint side by side, that's a must — silicone residue on neighbouring vehicles or shop surfaces can cause craters during a respray. Being silicone-free also makes the EX 04-06 a first choice for prep ahead of a ceramic coating, where an absolutely silicone-free surface gives the best bonding.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the EX 04-06 with a medium foam pad (orange in the SONAX colour system) at speed 4 to 5 on the dual-action machine. Drop three pea-sized dabs onto the pad, spread them at low speed and then work with moderate pressure in slow, overlapping passes. The key to a perfect result: slow machine movement. Move the machine about two to three centimetres per second across the surface — noticeably slower than most beginners do it by instinct. That's the only way the abrasives get enough contact time to fully cut out the defects and bring up the high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFinishing polish for dual-action machines — why the EX range is formulated differently from rotary polishes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e belongs to the EX range, which SONAX developed specifically for dual-action machines. The technical background: a dual-action machine moves the pad on a circular orbit with a simultaneous rotation — this double motion generates less friction energy per unit of area than the pure rotation of a rotary machine. Polishes built for the rotary need that higher energy to break their abrasives down fully. On a dual-action machine they only break down partway — the result is coarse leftover particles that leave micro-marring and holograms instead of bringing up gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX range solves this with an adapted particle size and binder matrix. The abrasives are smaller and break down at lower energy input — perfect for the dual-action motion. The flip side: on a rotary the abrasive breaks down too fast, and the polish loses its cut before the defects are fully removed. So the EX 04-06 is no replacement for rotary polishes like the CutMax or Cut+Finish — it's their counterpart for a different class of machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day, the difference shows up most on hard European clear coats, which are tougher to work with the dual-action machine than soft Japanese paints. On these clears the EX 04-06 gives enough working time and cut to keep performing consistently even after several polishing passes — something cheaper DA polishes often can't manage, because their formulation is spent after the first pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne practical angle: plenty of detailers own both a dual-action and a rotary machine and switch depending on the panel. On big, flat areas like the bonnet and roof the rotary is more efficient, while on edges, body lines and curved sections the dual-action machine gives you more safety margin. In that mixed workflow the EX 04-06 is the finishing product for all the dual-action sections — while a polish like the Cut+Finish or PerfectFinish handles the rotary sections. If you want to stick with a single machine and prefer the dual-action, the EX range gives you a complete system that asks for no compromise on performance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use a dual-action polish properly — speed, pressure and machine movement\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e on the dual-action machine follows a clear scheme: a medium to soft polishing pad, a mid-range speed (step 4 to 5 on most machines), moderate pressure and slow machine movement. That combination is the key to a hologram-free result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrop three pea-sized dabs of polish onto the pad and spread them at the lowest speed across the panel. Then step up to working speed and polish in slow, overlapping passes across the whole section. Slow here means: two to three centimetres per second. Most beginners move the machine too fast — the pad glides over the surface without enough time to cut the defects out. A slower movement increases the contact time per unit of area and uses the abrasive fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epressure\u003c\/strong\u003e should be moderate — just enough that the pad sits evenly on the surface. Unlike the rotary, where more pressure means more cut, the dual-action machine reacts to excess pressure in reverse: the dual-action motion gets choked, the pad spins slower, and the cut drops instead of climbing. If you notice the machine bogging down under pressure, you're leaning in too hard — back off and let the machine do the work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake: too much polish on the pad. Three pea-sized dabs are enough for a section of about fifty by fifty centimetres — more product dilutes the cut and stretches the working time without improving the result. If the polish is still sitting milky-thick on the surface after the pass, you've either laid on too much or moved the machine too fast. Cut the amount on the next section and move the machine slower — the result picks up straight away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn temperature: the dual-action machine generates less heat than a rotary, but on dark paint in summer sun the surface temperature can still get problematic. Work in a shaded spot or garage and check the temperature now and then with the back of your hand. Ideal ambient temperatures are between fifteen and twenty-five degrees Celsius at moderate humidity, to keep working conditions optimal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the polishing pass, wipe the residue off with a clean, soft microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED inspection lamp. On dark paint it's worth an extra check under direct sunlight — some holograms and swirls only show up under natural light, because the LED lamp hits at a different angle. Once you're happy with the result, comes the degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — only then do you see the actual result without polishing oils.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting light to medium paint defects — the ideal use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't built for heavy defect correction — for that there's the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut\"\u003eEX 05-05 with cut 5\/5\u003c\/a\u003e. The strength of the EX 04-06 sits in a different area: correcting light to medium defects in a single pass while producing the best possible finish at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common use case is the \u003cstrong\u003esingle-stage polish on near-new paint\u003c\/strong\u003e. Vehicles one to three years old typically show wash marring, light swirls and a general dullness in the clear coat. The EX 04-06 removes these surface defects in one pass and leaves a high gloss that sits above factory-new level. For detailers who regularly work on lease returns or young used cars, that's the typical job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother scenario: \u003cstrong\u003efinishing after a cutting stage\u003c\/strong\u003e. When the paint has first been worked with a cutting polish (the EX 05-05, say, or the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax\u003c\/a\u003e), the EX 04-06 removes the leftover micro-marring and holograms in the second step and brings the paint to a high gloss. This two-step process — cutting polish plus finishing polish — is the gold standard in professional paint correction and gets you the best results on demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX 04-06 is also ideal for \u003cstrong\u003eprep ahead of a coating\u003c\/strong\u003e. Before a ceramic coating or paint protection film goes on, the paint has to be in the best possible condition — any defect locked in under the coating stays visible for its entire service life. The EX 04-06 gives you exactly the surface a coating needs: defect-free, hologram-free and free of silicone residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne scenario that often gets underrated: \u003cstrong\u003eworking on vehicles with part-wrapped sections\u003c\/strong\u003e. When a vehicle has both painted and wrapped panels, the polish must not get onto the film — polishing residue can settle into the film texture and is hard to get out of there. The controlled way the dual-action machine works, combined with the EX 04-06, minimises the risk of splatter and lets you work precisely right up to the film edge. For these situations the dual-action machine clearly beats the rotary, because it slings off less product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDual-action polish comparison — EX 04-06 vs. EX 05-05 vs. NP 03-06\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range offers three finishing polishes to choose from, differing in cut and gloss:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e is the more aggressive sibling: cut 5\/5, gloss 5\/5. It comes in when the defects are too deep for the EX 04-06 — things like P1500 sanding marks, heavier weathering or scratches that go beyond the typical wash marring. The gloss level of 5\/5 is good, but not at the level of the EX 04-06 — for the highest finishing standards, a pass with the EX 04-06 follows the EX 05-05.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the gentlest option: cut 3\/5, gloss 6\/5. It's meant for paint that barely shows any defects and just needs that final polishing touch — after a thorough cutting stage, say, or on new cars that only need a light refresh. The lower cut also makes it the safest pick on extremely thin clear coats or historic paint, where every bit of material removal should be kept to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the all-rounder between these extremes: enough cut for typical everyday defects, maximum gloss for a professional finish. For most single-stage polishes on the dual-action machine it's the best choice — versatile enough for day-to-day work, strong enough on the finishing side for demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the EX 04-06 — bottle sizes and workflow recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. The 250 ml bottle is enough for several complete vehicle polishes — product use on the dual-action machine is moderate, because the polish works efficiently and needs few reloads. The 1000 ml bottle is the standard size for shops and keen private users who polish regularly. With the value combo you save on top of buying single — especially for detailers who run the EX 04-06 as their standard finishing polish, the stock pack pays off fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the optimal workflow on the dual-action machine we recommend: on light defects, the EX 04-06 as a single-step solution on a medium pad. On medium defects, first the EX 05-05 on a hard pad, then the EX 04-06 on a soft pad for the finish. After that, degrease with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e and, if needed, seal with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003ePolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a CeramicCoating of your choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA note on storage: the EX 04-06 tends to separate slightly when left standing for a while. Shake the bottle thoroughly before every use, until the consistency is evenly creamy. Store the product frost-free and sealed — frozen polish loses its abrasive structure and won't go on evenly after that, and should be thrown away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners stuck between the EX 04-06 and a rotary polish, the recommendation is clear: if you've got no machine-polishing experience yet, start with the dual-action machine and the EX 04-06. The combination is far more forgiving than a rotary with an aggressive cutting polish. You can learn the technique calmly, without fear of burn-throughs or holograms. The result might not quite reach what an experienced polisher gets on the rotary — but it'll be solid, safe and more than enough for the vast majority of needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520265773391,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520265806159,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000","price":37.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265871695,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265904463,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520265937231,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_2","price":74.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520265969999,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_3","price":112.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur.png?v=1730648016"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut","title":"PROFILINE EX \"05-05\" Cutting Compound (Heavy-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches on the dual-action polisher with the SONAX EX 05-05 cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX EX 05-05 do? A heavy-cut cutting compound for dual-action polishers with a cut rating of 5\/5 and a gloss rating of 5\/5 — it removes deep scratches, sanding marks up to P1500 and heavy weathering, and with the HybridwollPad it gets you results on a rotary level.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a long time, dual-action polishers were seen as the safe but weak tool — fine for finishing work, but no good for serious defect correction. Deep scratches, sanding marks and heavy weathering were the domain of the rotary, because only it built enough friction energy for the material removal you need. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e breaks with that limitation. Paired with a HybridwollPad, this cutting compound gets you results on the dual-action that used to be reserved for the rotary: sanding marks up to P1500 disappear in a single pass, deep scratches and etching are pulled out reliably, and the 5\/5 gloss rating leaves a finish that often needs no extra polishing step. For detailers who want to — or have to — work the dual-action only, because the rotary is too risky on certain paints, the EX 05-05 is the cutting compound of choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHeavy-cut on the dual-action.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a cut rating of 5\/5, the EX 05-05 is the most aggressive polish in the SONAX EX line-up. Its abrasive blend is built so it still generates enough cut even at the lower friction energy of dual-action motion, enough to remove deep scratches and sanding marks up to P1500. Paired with the HybridwollPad — a pad that combines foam and lambswool fibres — cutting power climbs noticeably again, because the wool fibres add friction that pure foam pads simply can't deliver.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh gloss at the same time.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 5\/5 gloss rating shows the EX 05-05 doesn't just cut, it polishes too. The abrasives break down progressively over the polishing pass — from coarse to fine — and leave a surface that on many paints is already the end result you wanted. When the finish demands the very best, a short pass with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/a\u003e follows, but for everyday needs the EX 05-05 often does the job as a one-step solution.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula is free of silicones and, thanks to its optimised consistency, works almost dust-free. In paint shops the silicone-free build eliminates the contamination risk, and the low-dust working saves time on the clean-up. Especially with heavy defect correction that takes several passes and a lot of polishing work, the low-dust formula makes a real difference in comfort and in how clean your work area stays.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For maximum cut on the dual-action, pair the EX 05-05 with the SONAX HybridwollPad and work at speed 5 to 6 (depending on the machine). Apply moderate pressure and guide the machine across the surface at two to three centimetres per second — clearly slower than when you're finish-polishing. The trick: let the machine do the work and use the weight of the tool as your natural down-pressure. Don't force the machine into the surface — that stalls the dual-action motion and reduces the cut instead of raising it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound for the dual-action — how the EX 05-05 gets rotary results on a DA\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe key to the performance of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e lies in the match between abrasive and pad. The abrasive particles are sized to work best at the specific friction energy of a dual-action polisher: big enough for effective cut, small enough for controlled particle break-down. On a rotary these particles would break too fast and lose their cutting power — so the EX 05-05 isn't a universal polish, it's a specialist for the dual-action motion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridwollPad amplifies this effect: the lambswool fibres create extra micro-friction on the surface that boosts material removal, while the foam core keeps the heat in check. The result: a cut on the dual-action that gets close to the level of a rotary with a medium-hard foam pad — without the rotary's risks (holograms, hot spots, burning through on edges).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX 05-05 plus HybridwollPad combo does have its limits, though: sanding marks of P1000 and coarser can't be fully removed in a single pass on the dual-action, even with this aggressive pairing. Here the rotary with a polish like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax\u003c\/a\u003e stays on top. The EX 05-05 covers the range from P1500 down to light P1200 marks — and in that range it gives you a result on the dual-action that makes switching to the rotary unnecessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor anyone who rarely uses their dual-action for heavy-cut, an important note: the performance of the EX 05-05 depends a lot on the quality of the dual-action. Cheap entry-level DAs with a short throw (8 mm) and a weak motor hit their limits fast on heavy defects. Machines with a long throw (15 to 21 mm) like the common pro models deliver far more friction energy and tap the EX 05-05's potential better. If you're planning to do heavy-cut work on the dual-action regularly, the investment in a long-throw machine pays off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the EX 05-05 the right way — pad choice, speed and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e shows its full strength paired with the HybridwollPad. For less aggressive jobs — say on near-new paint with only light scratches — a hard foam pad (orange) works too, giving slightly less cut at slightly higher gloss. On a soft finishing pad the compound loses too much cutting power — for pure finish-polishing the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/a\u003e is the better call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePut three to four pea-sized dots on the pad and spread the compound over the panel at a low speed. Step up to speed 5 to 6 and work in slow, overlapping passes across the section. A typical section — about half a fender — takes three to four minutes on the dual-action. By the end of the pass the compound should sit clear and thin on the surface — the sign that the abrasives have fully broken down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003emachine handling\u003c\/strong\u003e on the EX 05-05 differs from a finishing polish: with heavy-cut you can apply a bit more pressure than when finish-polishing, but only ever enough that the dual-action motion doesn't come to a stop. The moment you feel the machine stalling or vibrating, take the pressure off straight away. A stalling pad creates localised heat that can cause thermal damage on sensitive paints — showing up as light discolouration or dullness that even re-polishing can no longer fully correct.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you work on \u003cstrong\u003eedges and raised lines\u003c\/strong\u003e, take extra care: the clearcoat there is often only half as thick as on the flats. Drop the pressure clearly in these areas and rather run one extra pass with little pressure than a single pass with too much cut. A coating thickness gauge before you start gives you certainty about the room you've got to work with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the pass, wipe the residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check under LED light. If defects are still visible, repeat the pass on the same section. With the EX 05-05, two to three passes per panel on hard European paints are nothing unusual — on softer Japanese or Korean paints a single pass is often enough. Match your expectations to the paint type and plan in enough time, instead of giving up after one pass when the result isn't right yet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDegrease the polished surface afterwards with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to see the true result. Polishing oils can visually mask leftover defects — under Prepare it becomes clear whether all the scratches have really gone or whether another pass is needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHeavy-cut on the dual-action — typical use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main field for the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e is defect correction on paints that are too sensitive for the rotary, or where you prefer the safety of the dual-action. Day-to-day, that comes down to a few scenarios:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you're \u003cstrong\u003edetailing dark paints\u003c\/strong\u003e (black, dark blue, dark grey), the dual-action is the safer call, because it throws fewer holograms than the rotary. On these demanding colours the EX 05-05 delivers enough cut to remove scratches and swirls, and the 5\/5 gloss rating keeps the rework to a minimum. On black paint a short finishing pass with the EX 04-06 often makes sense, to pull out that last bit of deep gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003ecars with a thin clearcoat layer\u003c\/strong\u003e — measured with a coating thickness gauge — the dual-action gives you more control over material removal. The EX 05-05 removes defects efficiently, but more controlled than a rotary polish, because the dual-action motion takes off less per unit of time. That gives you the chance to check progress after every pass and stop in time, before the clearcoat gets too thin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003escratch removal in hard-to-reach spots\u003c\/strong\u003e — door-handle recesses, swage lines, transitions between panels — the compact dual-action with a small pad (75 mm or 125 mm) is a better fit than the big rotary. The EX 05-05 works on all common pad sizes and adapts flexibly to the panel geometry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more scenario that pro detailers value: \u003cstrong\u003ecorrecting transport damage and car-wash scratches\u003c\/strong\u003e on new vehicles. Plenty of new cars arrive at the dealer with fine to medium scratches — caused by film removal, transport securing or careless cleaning out on the lot. The EX 05-05 removes these defects on the safe dual-action, without putting the thin factory paint at risk. Combined with a final ceramic coating, the car ends up better protected than it was in delivery condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound comparison — EX 05-05 vs. CutMax vs. Cut+Finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe three key cutting compounds in the SONAX PROFILINE range cover different machine types and demands:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the cutting compound for the rotary — maximum cut (6\/5), moderate gloss (4\/5), optimised for the high friction energy of the rotary. It's the first choice for heavy defects from P1000 up on the rotary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eCut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the one-step solution for the rotary — same cut value as the EX 05-05, but with a high-gloss finish at the same time. It covers the range from P1500 up and combines cutting and finishing in a single pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05 (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the counterpart to the Cut+Finish for the dual-action: same performance values, but a formula optimised for the kinematics of the DA. If you own a dual-action and want to do heavy defect correction, you reach for the EX 05-05. If you've got a rotary, you take the Cut+Finish or CutMax. A universal polish that works equally well on both machine types doesn't exist — the physical demands of the two motions are too different. That's why SONAX deliberately developed separate product lines for rotary and dual-action with the PROFILINE range, rather than offering compromise products that don't show their full strength on either machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the EX 05-05 — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. For the occasional job detailing your own car, the 250 ml bottle is enough — a full defect correction uses between 50 and 100 ml depending on the size of the car and how bad the defects are. The 1000 ml bottle is the more economical option for detailing businesses and keen enthusiasts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the optimal workflow for the dual-action, the EX 05-05 is the first step (heavy-cut), followed by the EX 04-06 as the finishing step and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for degreasing and checking the result. This two-step process on the dual-action gets you results that come close to a three-step process on the rotary — at clearly lower risk of holograms and burn-through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone with both EX-series polishes on the shelf — the EX 05-05 for heavy-cut and the EX 04-06 for finish — is set up for every dual-action job. The two products complement each other perfectly: the EX 05-05 removes the heavy defects, the EX 04-06 pulls out the last bit of gloss. Together they replace a three-product system (cutting paste, cutting compound, finishing polish) of the kind that's standard with the rotary — fewer products, fewer pad changes, fewer things to get wrong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor economical use: the product consumption of the EX 05-05 on heavy-cut work runs a bit higher than on a finishing polish, because you need more passes per panel. For a full defect correction on the dual-action, count on around 80 to 120 ml per car — depending on the size of the car and how bad the defects are. The 250 ml bottle does two to three cars that way, the 1000 ml bottle eight to twelve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne tip for pad care: the HybridwollPad should be cleaned thoroughly after every car — polish residue in the wool fibres hardens and reduces cutting power on the next job. Rinse the pad out under warm water after the work and let it dry fully before you use it again. You can tell a worn-out HybridwollPad by the wool fibres being flattened and no longer springing back — that's when it's time for a new pad. Rather invest in a fresh pad than in an extra polishing pass: the cut of a new pad is noticeably higher than that of a worn one, and the result more even. Professional outfits change the HybridwollPad after five to eight cars at the latest — beyond that the wool structure is so compacted that the cut drops off noticeably and you're no longer getting the full efficiency out of the EX 05-05.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520446619983,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520446652751,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000","price":40.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520446685519,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410_2","price":34.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520446718287,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410_3","price":52.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520446751055,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000_2","price":80.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520446783823,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000_3","price":121.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut.png?v=1730649133"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" cutting compound (down to P1000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches and sanding marks with the SONAX CutMax cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX CutMax do? A cutting compound with maximum cut (6\/4) that pulls out sanding marks from P1000 grit, deep scratches and paint overspray — low-dust thanks to Low Dust Technology, dialled in for rotary machines.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen the paint is hammered badly enough that a normal polish just won't cut it anymore, the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e steps in. With a cut rating of 6 on the SONAX scale, it's the most aggressive polish in the PROFILINE range — built for jobs where you need maximum material removal: deep scratches, P1000 sanding marks, orange peel, paint fog and badly weathered paintwork. Despite that heavy cut, the CutMax works almost dust-free thanks to Low Dust Technology and leaves a gloss level of 4\/5, which in most cases only needs a quick finishing step after it. For body shops and pro detailers, the CutMax is the tool of choice when efficiency on defect removal beats everything else.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut for heavy defects.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasive blend in the CutMax is built for fast, deep cutting. It pulls out sanding marks from P1000 in a single pass — a range lighter polishes simply can't reach. Baked-on bug splatter, deep scratches and years of neglected weathering get cut away just as effectively. That cut saves real time in the bay, because you need fewer passes than with milder products.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow Dust Technology for clean work.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a lot of polishes, heavy cut also means heavy dust — a problem that settles into panel gaps, seals and across the whole workspace and needs serious cleanup. The CutMax solves that with its dedicated Low Dust formula: the compound stays on the pad and on the surface through the whole process instead of dusting off. That saves you the cleanup and keeps polishing dust out of freshly painted areas — a critical point in body shops.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGood gloss despite the heavy cut.\u003c\/strong\u003e A gloss level of 4\/5 is remarkable for a cutting compound this aggressive. Plenty of competing products with a comparable cut leave a dull, hazy finish that absolutely needs a finishing step. The CutMax gets much closer to the end result — on a lot of paints a quick pass with a finishing polish like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e is all it takes to hit showroom gloss.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the CutMax on the rotary with a hard foam pad (white) or a lambswool pad for maximum cut. Start at 1000 rpm to spread the compound out, then take it up to 1500–1800 rpm for the actual cutting. Work in rows with 50 percent overlap and lay down even, moderate pressure — the abrasives need friction, not heavy pressure. After each pass, check with an LED light whether the defects are fully gone before you move to the finishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut 6\/4 — how the CutMax can take heavy paint defects out in one pass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e hits its high cut through a mix of specially sized abrasive particles and a formula that keeps the cut steady across the whole pass. Unlike basic cutting compounds, whose cut drops off noticeably after the first thirty seconds because the abrasives break down too fast, the CutMax holds its cutting power through the entire work cycle. In practice that means: one pass of two to three minutes per section is enough to fully remove even deep sanding marks — instead of the three or four passes you'd need with a weaker polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gloss level of 4\/5 shows the CutMax isn't a pure cutting paste but a cutting compound with controlled particle breakdown. The abrasives start out aggressive and break down into finer particles over the pass, which already take care of part of the finish. The result is a surface that's noticeably smoother and glossier than after a pure cutting paste — but not yet at the level of a dedicated finishing polish. For shops that need to get to a presentable result fast after wet sanding, that in-between stage is often already enough when concours quality isn't on the table.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important difference to the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/a\u003e: the CutMax has the higher cut and comes in where the Cut+Finish doesn't pull enough material anymore — so with P1000 sanding marks, deep scratches and heavy weathering. The Cut+Finish is the one-step solution from P1500, the CutMax is the heavy hammer for everything below that. In a lot of shops both products sit side by side: the Cut+Finish for most of the day-to-day work, the CutMax for the heavy cases.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a cutting compound right — machine, pad and technique for maximum cut\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e shows its full potential on the rotary machine. The pure rotation builds more friction and heat than a dual-action machine — exactly the energy a cutting compound at this level needs to deliver maximum cut. It works on a dual-action machine too, but with a clearly reduced cut: you need more passes and more time for the same result. If you regularly tackle heavy correction, the rotary is the right investment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epad choice\u003c\/strong\u003e heavily shapes the result. For maximum cut, go for a hard foam pad (white in the SONAX colour system) or a lambswool pad. The lambswool pad gives the highest cut of all pad types but also leaves the roughest surface — ideal for the first pass on heavy defects, followed by a foam pad for the refinement. A medium pad reduces the cut and suits paints that need less correction, or sensitive areas like edges and creases, where too aggressive a cut could burn through the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor application, put three to four pea-sized dots on the pad and spread the compound across the panel at low speed. Then take it up to working speed and polish in rows with fifty percent overlap. Work in sections of around forty by forty centimetres — small enough to stay in control, big enough to make efficient progress. Listen to the machine: a steady hum tells you the pad is working cleanly on the surface. A rattle or vibration points to too much pressure or a clogged pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the cutting pass, wipe the compound residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED light. If the defects are fully gone, the finishing step follows. If marks are still showing, repeat the pass — better a second controlled pass than a single one with too much pressure that can cause holograms or heat spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common beginner mistake working with the CutMax: too much product on the pad. A cutting compound needs less product than a finishing polish, because the cut comes from the abrasives, not from the volume of paste. Three to four small dots are enough for a section of forty by forty centimetres. Too much product thins out the cutting action, drags out the pass and makes wiping harder. In pro shops, experienced polishers sometimes work with even less product — they make up for the smaller amount with precise machine control that gets the most out of the abrasive that's there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important note on \u003cstrong\u003eheat control\u003c\/strong\u003e: the rotary builds serious heat when you work with a cutting compound. On dark paints the surface temperature can climb past seventy degrees in a few seconds — a temperature that can damage the clear coat. Check the temperature regularly by running the back of your hand over the surface. When it gets uncomfortably warm, let the section cool briefly before you carry on. On edges, creases and raised lines the heat build-up is especially critical, because the paint layer there is thinner than on flat panels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting heavy paint defects — the ideal use cases for the CutMax\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for the \u003cstrong\u003eCutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e is defect correction after wet sanding with P1000 to P1200 grit. In the body shop that's the most common use: after a blend-in or spot repair, the transition between new and old paint gets wet sanded, and the CutMax then takes the sanding marks out in a single pass. The compound being silicone-free is key here — in a shop environment where paint goes on every day, there can be no silicone risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003ereconditioning badly neglected vehicles\u003c\/strong\u003e the CutMax shows its strength too. Paints that have been exposed to sun, bird droppings, tree sap and industrial fallout for years build up an oxidised layer that lighter polishes can't get through. The CutMax cuts that layer away efficiently and exposes the undamaged paint underneath. The result is often striking: colours that looked dull and faded show the full depth and brilliance of the original paint again after correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003enew-car reconditioning\u003c\/strong\u003e the CutMax comes into play too, when the factory paint shows heavy orange peel. A wet sand with P1000 levels the surface, and the CutMax brings the gloss back. This job takes experience, because the clear coat on new vehicles is often thinner than on older paint systems — a paint thickness reading before sanding is a must, so you don't break through the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003epartial PPF wraps\u003c\/strong\u003e on front ends the CutMax sometimes comes in indirectly: the paint under the film gets polished before the wrap to clear up any defects that would show through the clear film. The CutMax removes scratches and swirls fast and effectively, and the finishing polish after it leaves a flawlessly smooth base for the film to bond to.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the CutMax hits its limits: on scratches that reach down into the base coat or the primer, no polish helps — here you need to respray the affected spot. The CutMax also can't replace clear coat that's already peeling over a large area. In cases like that it's better to be honest with the customer about the limits of polishing than to promise a result you can't reach. Honest communication builds the customer's trust over the long run far more than a cosmetic compromise that shows again after a few weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound comparison — CutMax vs. UltimateCut vs. EX 05-05\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range there are three products in play for heavy defect removal: CutMax, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut\"\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut (6+\/3)\u003c\/strong\u003e has the highest cut in the whole range — even higher than the CutMax. It's reserved for the most extreme cases: the worst weathering, P800 sanding marks, massive orange peel. The gloss level of 3\/5 shows that after the UltimateCut a finishing step is definitely needed — often even a two-step finish. The UltimateCut is the tool for specialists, not for daily use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05 (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits on the other side of the spectrum: the same cut and same gloss as the Cut+Finish, but with a different formula that works better on certain paint systems. It's the alternative for anyone who doesn't get the result they want with the Cut+Finish — for example on particularly hard ceramic clear coats, where the EX series has traditionally been strong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits between these extremes: more cut than the EX 05-05, but a clearly better gloss than the UltimateCut. For the bulk of heavy defect-correction work — wet sanding from P1000, deep scratches, heavy weathering — the CutMax is the optimal choice, because it gets the defect removal done in one step and keeps the finishing step after it short.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the CutMax — bottle sizes and workflow recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1000 ml and 5 litres. The 250 ml bottle is enough for several complete vehicle corrections and is the ideal entry point for private users and smaller outfits. The 1000 ml bottle is the standard size for shops with regular polishing demand. The 5-litre container is aimed at high-throughput businesses — the per-litre price is lowest here, and the wide opening makes it easier to dispense with a dosing bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best polishing workflow we recommend the combination: CutMax as the cutting compound on the rotary, followed by the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e as the finishing step on the dual-action machine, and finally \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for degreasing and result check. This three-step combo covers the whole defect-correction process — from heavy cutting to a finish that's ready to seal. Anyone who wants to lay down a long-term sealant afterwards already has the perfect base with Prepare.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn shelf life and storage: like all cutting compounds, the CutMax can separate slightly if it sits for a while. Shake the bottle thoroughly before every use until the consistency is homogeneous and creamy again. Store the product frost-free and sealed — frozen compound loses its abrasive structure and is useless after that. Stored properly, the CutMax keeps its full performance over the whole shelf life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA closing practical note on the \u003cstrong\u003ecost-effective use\u003c\/strong\u003e in the shop: the CutMax has a higher per-litre price than consumer polishes from the DIY store, but the product consumption per vehicle is much lower. The concentrated formula means you get by with three to four dots per section — a 250 ml bottle lasts for several complete vehicle corrections. Measured by result per euro spent, the CutMax is therefore more economical than cheaper alternatives that need double or triple the product and still take more passes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520611148111,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410","price":19.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520611180879,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000","price":60.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53520611213647,"sku":"D1-SNX-2465000","price":229.43,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520611246415,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410_2","price":38.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520611279183,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410_3","price":58.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520611311951,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000_2","price":120.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520611344719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000_3","price":181.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur.png?v=1730650207"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-os-02-06-hochglanz-politur-versiegelung-one-step","title":"PROFILINE OS \"02-06\" High-Gloss Polish with Sealant (One-Step)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHigh gloss and sealing in one step — SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 do? This one-step polish pairs fine paint correction with a built-in protective sealant — high gloss, light swirl removal and instant paint protection in a single pass, ideal for maintenance jobs and time-tight detailing workflows.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day in detailing there are jobs where a full multi-stage polish isn't needed — or just doesn't pay off: new-car prep with barely any swirling, regular maintenance work on well-kept cars, or fleet jobs on a tight clock. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for exactly those cases: a pro-grade one-step polish that levels light hologramming and swirl marks in a single pass while laying down a protective sealant layer at the same time. The payoff: high gloss and paint protection without a separate sealing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne-step technology: correction and sealing at once.\u003c\/strong\u003e Standard polishing splits paint correction and sealing into separate steps — polish first, wipe down with a panel wipe, then seal. The OS 02-06 folds those steps together with a hybrid formula: fine abrasive particles correct light surface defects while you work the panel, and the built-in sealant polymer lays down as a protective layer on the freshly levelled clear coat. Three steps shrink to one — with no give on gloss on suitable cars.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFine cut for light swirl marks and hologramming.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cut of the OS 02-06 sits mid-range on the SONAX scale at \"02-06\": fine enough for finishing passes and one-step work, still strong enough to pull light to medium swirl marks. On forgiving paint (hard factory clear coats, say, or newer soft paints in good shape) the OS 02-06 leaves a finish that's sealing-ready with no follow-up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt-in sealant protection straight after polishing.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polymer additive in the one-step formula forms a thin, even protective layer on the clear coat once you've buffed it out. That layer boosts hydrophobicity, lifts the gloss a touch and gives you a first line of defence against moisture, dirt and UV. The protection won't last like a dedicated ceramic or polymer sealant, but for cars on short detailing intervals — or as a first protective layer after a baseline job — it does the trick.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The OS 02-06 gives its best with a combo pad (medium-firm foam pads or combi microfibre pads) that carries the fine abrasive particles well and spreads the sealant polymer evenly across the surface at the same time. Run your dual-action polisher at 4–5 for the correction phase, then drop to 2–3 for the final finishing pass so the sealant polymer buffs out evenly. One thing: if you're putting a full ceramic sealant over the top afterwards, degrease first with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — the OS 02-06's sealant polymer has to come off before a new coating, or it'll hurt adhesion. On cars getting nothing but the OS 02-06, you can skip that step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne-step polishing technology — correction and sealing fused into one formula\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe technical trick of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is fusing two normally incompatible jobs into one formula: abrasive polishing and protective-layer build. A pure correction polish needs to stay free of waxy or polymer ingredients that would wedge between abrasive and paint and dull the cut. A pure sealant, the other way round, can't carry any abrasion that would tear the fresh protective layer straight back off. The OS 02-06 squares that circle with a specifically tuned particle size and an optimised formulation approach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe finely milled abrasive particles in the OS 02-06 are sized so they do their correcting during the active polishing phase — when the pad is driven across the panel under pressure and speed. As the polish buffs out (less pressure, lower speed), the remaining polymer parts of the formula lay an even film across the cleaned surface. That sequencing — cut first, then protective-layer build — is what lets both jobs live in one product without stepping on each other.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS 02-06's sealing component is built as short-term protection that holds for several months, but it isn't on par with a full polymer or ceramic sealant. For cars detailed regularly (every 3–6 months) where lasting ceramic-coating protection isn't the goal, this level of protection is plenty. For cars where maximum sealant durability is the goal, the two-step route (OS 02-06 or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e for the polish, then a panel wipe and a dedicated sealant) stays the first choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the OS 02-06 right — pad choice, machine and workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGetting the one-step polish right starts with the pad: for the OS 02-06, reach for combi pads or lightly abrasive foam pads that back up the correction side and spread the sealant side evenly. Pure finishing pads (very soft pads with no cut of their own) knock back the OS 02-06's correction power hard — when swirl removal is the priority, a combi pad is the better call. Very hard or abrasive pads, on the other hand, lift correction power but can work the sealant polymer in too aggressively and leave an uneven finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMachine work: start your one-step polishing at medium speed (4–5 on the dual-action polisher) with normal polishing pressure. Spread the polish on the pad first, then run overlapping passes across the panel — usually 2–3 passes for full swirl removal. For the final pass, drop the speed and ease off the pressure to buff the sealant polymer in evenly for the finish. Make your wipe-off pass with a clean microfibre cloth when the polish on the paint turns to its whitish, hazy phase — that's the sweet spot to wipe the sealant component off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for checking your work: once it's buffed out, check the panel under raking artificial light for any swirl marks left behind. The OS 02-06 pulls light swirls clean off and knocks medium swirls back hard — deep scratches and heavy hologramming stay visible with a one-step polish and call for a multi-stage process with a more aggressive correction step. The one-step polish is no substitute for multi-stage correction on badly marred paint; it's the right tool for paint where the damage level doesn't call for deeper correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the OS 02-06 fits — when the one-step polish is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e nails several typical detailing scenarios. New-car prep: fresh cars come in with transport-protection residue and fine hologramming from the factory polish, but no deeper swirls or scratches. The OS 02-06 pulls these fine surface defects off in one pass and leaves the paint sealing-ready — an economical, time-efficient answer for pre-delivery new-car prep.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMaintenance work and regular care: cars detailed every few months that have only picked up light, everyday swirl marks are where the OS 02-06's one-step efficiency shines. Instead of polishing the panel, then degreasing it, then sealing it, you get it all done in one go. For shops with high car throughput, that means real time saved per car — and a solid result alongside it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDealer prep and lot cars: used-car dealers and lease returns with manageable paint damage (everyday scratches, light swirls from the wash line) are a classic use case. The OS 02-06 lets you turn out a fast, convincing job that makes the car a lot more sellable, without the time hit of a full multi-stage detail. The sealant polymer in the OS 02-06 also protects the paint against the elements while the car sits on the lot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe OS 02-06 compared — one-step vs. multi-stage polishing and the OS 04-05\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range carries two one-step polishes for different needs. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-os-04-05-hochglanz-politur-one-step\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 04-05\u003c\/a\u003e is the more aggressive one-step polish with a higher cut (04-05 on the SONAX scale) — it's built for paint with medium to heavier swirl marks the OS 02-06 doesn't correct enough. The OS 04-05 carries no built-in sealant and is positioned as a pure correction product that calls for a separate sealing step afterwards. The pick between the two comes down to how damaged the paint is: light swirls and maintenance work → OS 02-06, medium to heavier swirls → OS 04-05 followed by a separate sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst a multi-stage polish (coarse correction step + finishing polish + panel wipe + sealant), the one-step polish loses ground on badly damaged paint, as you'd expect: it can't pull deep scratches that need a coarse cutting step, and the built-in protection won't last like a dedicated ceramic coating. For paint that far gone, we recommend the multi-stage process with the NP 03-06 as the finishing polish. The OS 02-06's edge is the time and efficiency it buys you on light to lightly-medium damage — used on the right car, it turns out a professional finish that convinces the customer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers who want to cover both scenarios, we recommend the OS 02-06 as the standard one-step for the bulk of cars coming in (the ones in normal care condition) and the OS 04-05 as backup for more heavily damaged paint. Splitting your polishing workflow by damage level like this is a professional approach that maximises finish quality and keeps the work economical.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1 litre, plus as 2-pack and 3-pack sets. The 250 ml bottle is ideal if you want to try the product out, or for working small areas (single panels, bonnet, roof). The 1 litre bottle is the most economical pick for regular users and pro shops — depending on pad size and car size, each application takes about 15–25 ml, so a litre is good for about 40–65 full car applications.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS 02-06 is a particularly good call for shops offering a high-quality, time-efficient detail as a standard service that want to lean on one product covering both correction and protection. For car washes and quick details on limited time, the one-step formula is economically attractive. And for private owners caring for their own car who want a simple process with no stack of chemicals, the OS 02-06 is a no-fuss answer for a full detail in a single pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line, the SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 is the right tool for every job where time and efficiency count without giving up paint correction and protection. If you want to combine professional gloss and instant paint protection on a car in good shape, the OS 02-06 is the most effective answer in the SONAX PROFILINE polishing range.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520769352015,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410","price":9.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520769384783,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000","price":25.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520769417551,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410_2","price":18.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520769450319,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410_3","price":28.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520769483087,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000_2","price":50.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520769515855,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000_3","price":76.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-os-02-06-hochglanz-politur-versiegelung-one-step.png?v=1730651051"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur","title":"PROFILINE GlassPolish Glass Polish (Cerium Oxide Chemical-Mechanical)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove scratches and spots from glass chemically and mechanically — SONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish do? This cerium oxide glass polish removes scratches, water spots, streaks and oxidation from windscreens and vehicle glass chemically and mechanically — for a clear view and streak-free glass without heavy sanding work.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eScratched windscreens, baked-in water spots and oxidation on vehicle glass are more than a cosmetic flaw — they cut your view in rain, low sun and at night, and that can get dangerous. Normal glass cleaners lift loose dirt, but they do nothing about scratches worked into the surface or mineral deposits chemically baked on. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e solves that with a chemical-mechanical approach: cerium oxide, an abrasive made specifically for glass, polishes the surface on a microscopic level and pulls out surface scratches, water spots and that oxidised film — what you get is optically clear, streak-free glass with maximum light transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCerium oxide technology for glass surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Cerium oxide is an abrasive developed specifically for glass, and it has a unique dual property: mechanical micro-abrasion for physical scratch removal, plus chemical activity at the glass silicon-dioxide surface that makes the polish work better than purely mechanical alternatives. That chemical-mechanical interplay is exactly why cerium oxide polishes are the go-to method in optics and vehicle glass refinishing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePulls out scratches, water spots and wiper marks.\u003c\/strong\u003e Windscreens typically pick up fine scratch marks from wiper blades dragging sand particles along — those wiper marks show up in rain and low sun as annoying light scatter. Mineral water spots and limescale deposits on the glass hurt optical clarity and bond chemically to the surface. The GlassPolish clears both types of problem and brings back the glass's original clarity.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFor windscreen, side windows and rear screen.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cerium oxide polish suits every piece of vehicle glass: windscreen (the biggest gain in visibility), side windows (scratches from raising the glass through dirty guide channels), rear screen (wiper marks from rain off the tailgate). It also works on glass headlight lenses and plastic headlight covers — here, pair it with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e for the best results.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Before you polish the glass, clean the pane thoroughly — dirt and sand on the surface during polishing will lay down fresh scratches. Pre-clean with a microfibre cloth and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e. Lay the GlassPolish onto the damp pane with a sponge or applicator cloth and work it in with circular motions — a slightly damp surface spreads the cerium oxide more evenly than dry glass does. For stubborn wiper marks, work with a polishing machine and a foam pad — polishing by hand is plenty for light spots and water marks, but for deeper scratches a machine gives you a hand. After polishing, rinse the area with clean water and buff it off with a clean microfibre cloth — the result shows up straight away in how clear the glass reads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCerium oxide technology: how the glass polish regenerates glass surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCerium oxide (CeO₂) is a rare-earth metal oxide that has been used in glass optics and glass processing as an abrasive and polishing agent for precision glass for decades. What makes it so well suited to glass comes down to a chemical-mechanical dual action: on one hand, cerium oxide has a specific hardness (Mohs scale ~6) that is ideal for glass (Mohs ~5–6) — hard enough for abrasion, but not so hard that it lays down fresh deep scratches. On the other, cerium oxide reacts chemically with the silicon dioxide of the glass surface and forms temporary cerium-silicate compounds during polishing that boost the polishing effect on a molecular level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat dual action explains why cerium oxide polishes treat glass surfaces far more effectively than purely mechanical abrasives: the chemical activity etches the silicon-dioxide surface of the glass on a microscopic level, which together with the mechanical abrasion creates a \"reflow\" effect — tiny scratches aren't just sanded away, the glass matrix flows slightly and fills the finest cracks. That's why, after a cerium oxide polish, scratches look gone that were really only \"rounded off\" or filled in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e uses this principle in a formulation tuned for vehicle work: the cerium oxide particles are suspended in a suitable carrier liquid that ensures even spread and enough lubrication. That keeps excess friction heat down during polishing and protects the pane from uneven removal. At the same time, the formula is built so it rinses off residue-free after polishing — no whitish cerium oxide film stays on the pane that could hurt optical clarity once you're done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the glass polish the right way — from prep to result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorking with the glass polish follows a clear workflow that breaks down into prep, polishing and finishing. Prep matters especially with glass polishing: any speck of dirt on the pane that gets between the applicator and the glass during polishing makes fresh scratches — a mistake that gives you exactly the opposite of what you wanted. Wash the pane thoroughly with glass cleaner, rinse with clean water and dry with a clean microfibre cloth. Mask off the edge seals and paint around the pane with masking tape — cerium oxide on paint leaves streaks that are hard to get off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolishing by hand: put GlassPolish on a sponge or applicator cloth, lay it onto the damp glass and work it in with circular motions. Medium pressure, even movement — don't let it dry, top up with a damp cloth or a little water if you need to. The visible sign it's working: the abrasive film clears up as you go and runs less — that tells you the cerium oxide particles are working the surface. After 3–5 minutes of polishing, take the product off with a damp microfibre cloth and check the result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolishing by machine: for more stubborn wiper marks or deeper scratches, reach for a polishing machine with a foam pad. Low speed (setting 2–3), light pressure — glass is more sensitive than paint and reacts faster to excess friction heat. Work in sections (max. 30×30 cm), don't dwell too long on one spot. After each pass, check the result in the light — look through the pane against the light to spot any leftover scratches and streaks. Depending on how deep the scratches run, a second pass may be needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlass polish use cases — typical glass problems and how to fix them\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e tackles a range of typical glass problems that show up on vehicles in everyday use. Wiper marks are the most common job: wiper blades dragging sand particles along make fine scratch marks in the windscreen glass — you'll spot them as light scatter in rain and low sun. These scratches are usually very fine and respond well to one or two passes of the cerium oxide polish. One thing to watch: after the glass polish, check the wiper rubber for damage and replace it if needed, since old wiper rubbers will just start the wiper-marking all over again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStubborn water spots and limescale deposits on the glass are the second most common job. Limescale from hard water that has dried onto the pane can first be loosened chemically with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-waterspot-remover-wasserfleckenentferner-kalkentferner\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/a\u003e — in stubborn cases, where the limescale has already attacked the glass surface, the GlassPolish follows as the mechanical step to polish out the remaining haze in the glass. This combined approach (chemical first, then mechanical) is far more effective on heavy limescale damage than mechanical polishing alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOxidation film on glass (a yellowish or dull layer that absorbs light) builds up from UV exposure and chemical reactions on the glass surface — especially on vehicles that sit in the sun for long stretches or run in industrial settings. Normal glass cleaners won't shift this film, but it responds well to the cerium oxide polish. After treatment, the glass reads noticeably clearer and scatters far less light in low sun and at night — a direct safety gain for the driver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlassPolish compared — when chemical, when mechanical, when both?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn glass refinishing there are different product strategies you should pick by problem type and intensity. Purely chemical approaches (like the SONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover) are ideal for mineral deposits and light limescale, without removing any of the glass surface mechanically — that method is fast and risk-free, but it does nothing against mechanical scratches. The GlassPolish, as a chemical-mechanical product, is the right call when there are scratches or streaks alongside the spots that need mechanical work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst wet-sanding paper (e.g. P2000 or P3000 wet polish for glass), the GlassPolish has a clear edge: the cerium oxide formula is less aggressive and leaves a finer surface after treatment that doesn't need a follow-up fine polish. Wet-sanding paper removes deeper scratches more efficiently, but leaves sanding marks that then have to be levelled out with a cerium oxide polish. For typical vehicle glass problems (wiper marks, limescale, light oxidation) the GlassPolish is the most direct and gentlest solution — without needing a multi-step sanding process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a finishing step after the glass polish, a glass sealant is worth it — it protects the polished surface and adds water repellency through a lotus effect — the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-glass-scheibenversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" Glass\u003c\/a\u003e gives you long-term protection here, and the hydrophobic properties improve wiper performance and visibility in rain while cutting future water spots right down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish — sizes and use in a professional workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml (single bottle) and as a 2x 250 ml set. The 250 ml bottle goes a long way over many glass-polishing jobs when used properly — cerium oxide polishes go on in fairly small amounts, since too much product on the pane just makes more work taking it off without improving the polishing effect. For detailing shops that regularly run vehicles with glass refinishing in the programme, the 2-pack is the more economical pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe glass polish also suits use on glass headlight lenses made of glass (not for plastic headlights — use the dedicated \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e there). On glass domes, clear glass covers and optical glass components, the cerium oxide polish works too — but always go careful on already-coated or treated glass surfaces, which the abrasion could damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the GlassPolish is the must-have tool for anyone after clear, scratch-free vehicle glass as part of a professional refinishing standard. The chemical-mechanical cerium oxide technology delivers results no other product type gets this efficiently — and the direct effect on driving safety through better visibility makes glass polishing one of the refinishing steps with the highest practical payoff for the vehicle owner.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53521078616399,"sku":"D1-SNX-2731410","price":24.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521078649167,"sku":"D1-SNX-2731410_2","price":48.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521078681935,"sku":"D1-SNX-2731410_3","price":73.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur_250ml.png?v=1730653450"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur","title":"PROFILINE HeadlightPolish Headlight Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRestore yellowed headlights and bring them back clear — SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish do? This dedicated headlight polish strips UV-driven yellowing, oxidation layers and fine scratches off polycarbonate headlights — and brings back the original clarity and light transmission like a pro.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYellowed and oxidised headlights are one of the most common cosmetic issues on cars five years and older: UV light slowly breaks down the outer protective layer of the polycarbonate headlights, the surface oxidises and yellows, and light transmission drops measurably. That doesn't just hurt the look of the car — it hurts road safety too, because clouded headlights cut the reach of the beam. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro headlight polish for mechanically reconditioning these headlight surfaces: abrasive enough to pull off yellowing and oxidation, fine enough to leave a clear, scratch-free finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStrips yellowing and UV oxidation off polycarbonate surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polycarbonate, the material modern car headlights are made of, is light and impact-resistant but UV-sensitive: without an intact UV protective layer the surface oxidises into a yellowy, cloudy, matte film that scatters light instead of letting it through. The HeadlightPolish pulls that oxidation layer off with fine abrasive polishing and exposes the clear polycarbonate underneath — the result is a headlight that looks and works like new.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFine abrasion for clear, transparent results without scratches.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polycarbonate headlights are softer than car paint and react to overly coarse abrasion with new scratches that hurt clarity just as much. The HeadlightPolish is dialled in for the specific demands of headlight reconditioning: fine abrasive particles that take off the yellowing and light scratches without cutting new, deep marks that you'd have to polish out again.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks by hand or by machine.\u003c\/strong\u003e The HeadlightPolish formula is built to run both on a polisher (dual-action or rotary with a small pad) and by hand with an applicator. By hand you can work small headlights, headlights with tricky geometry and on-the-spot touch-ups well — for bigger or heavily oxidised headlights the machine is more efficient and gives a more even result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e On heavily yellowed headlights a multi-step job is the way to go: first wet-sand the worst of the oxidised crud with fine sandpaper (P1000–P2000) to take the oxidised layer off evenly, then polish it out with the HeadlightPolish to remove the sanding marks and bring up the gloss. For that full process the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-scheinwerferaufbereitungsset-aufbereitungsset\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Headlight Reconditioning Set\u003c\/a\u003e is the way to go — it packs all the materials you need including the sandpapers. After polishing, always lay down a UV protective sealant — without protection the headlights yellow again within 6–18 months. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-headlightcoating-scheinwerferversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightCoating \"CC\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the ceramic sealant for lasting UV protection after the polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolycarbonate chemistry — how the HeadlightPolish removes headlight yellowing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe way the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e works comes down to mechanical micro-abrasion that takes the oxidised, yellowed polycarbonate surface off layer by layer. Chemically, the oxidation layer on yellowed headlights is a photodegradation layer — UV light breaks the polymer chain bonds in the polycarbonate and forms carbonyl groups, which cause the yellow discolouration. That layer sits on the top micrometres of the polycarbonate and can be cut off by abrasion without touching the material underneath.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive particles in the HeadlightPolish are tuned for polycarbonate surfaces: polycarbonate is noticeably softer than tempered glass or car paint and reacts faster to abrasion. Particles that are too coarse would cut deep marks into the clear material that hurt light transmission just as much as the original yellowing. The HeadlightPolish uses finely ground abrasive particles that take the layer off in a controlled way and leave a polished, clear surface. The result depends on how far the yellowing and oxidation have gone: lightly yellowed headlights come fully clear with a single polish, heavily yellowed or deeply eroded headlights need several passes or a wet-sanding step first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn important point in headlight reconditioning is understanding the layer structure: new headlights have a factory-applied UV protective layer (hardcoating) that shields the polycarbonate from UV light. Over time that protective layer breaks down, and the unprotected polycarbonate starts to oxidise. The HeadlightPolish removes the oxidation layer, but not the underlying problem: the freshly polished polycarbonate has no UV protection after the polish, and without a new protective layer it will yellow again. That's why the combo of HeadlightPolish (the polish) and a UV-resistant sealant is the complete reconditioning concept for headlights that stay clear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe clarity and light transmission of a freshly reconditioned headlight can make the difference in TÜV-relevant terms: headlights that have lost more than 50% of their light transmission to extreme yellowing can be flagged as defects at a roadworthiness inspection. A professional headlight reconditioning doesn't just bring back the look — it also has practical relevance for vehicle safety and registration.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the HeadlightPolish right — hand polishing and machine work\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the headlight polish starts with prep: wash and dry the headlight thoroughly to get rid of grit and coarse dirt particles that would scratch during polishing. Mask off the adjacent paint with painter's tape, since the HeadlightPolish abrades clear coat too — and that's a pain to fix afterwards. Check the headlight for scratches and how deep any cracks run: surface scratches polish out, but deep cracks or internal headlight damage can't be fixed by polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBy hand: lay the HeadlightPolish onto an applicator or a soft microfibre cloth. Work even circular motions with medium pressure across the whole headlight face — dwell time matters less here than the mechanical action from pressure and movement. By hand you'll need several passes to get the same result you'd get from one machine pass. The hand method works especially well on smaller headlights or for spot work (single blemishes or local oxidation patches) where a machine is less precise.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBy machine: run a small pad (65–80 mm) on a dual-action or rotary polisher (speed 3–4) with even, light pressure across the headlight face. The curved geometry of most headlights calls for a flexible pad that follows the shape, and controlled pad guidance to avoid uneven edge pressure. After the machine pass, buff off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result in raking light for any leftover sanding marks or haze. Do a second pass if needed, especially on heavily yellowed headlights.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the HeadlightPolish earns its keep — when headlight reconditioning makes sense\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA professional headlight reconditioning with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e pays off in plenty of situations. The most common case is sprucing up the look of cars five years and older that have lost their appeal to UV yellowing. In the used-car trade, headlight reconditioning is one of the most cost-effective upgrades going: a professional job takes 20–30 minutes per car, uses little material and lifts the look of the car a lot — an effort that pays for itself fast in the asking price.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs part of a full detail, headlight reconditioning is a quality signal: a car with clear, freshly reconditioned headlights next to high-gloss paint reads as overall coherence and craftsmanship. Plenty of customers value it when a detailer looks after this detail too, and take it as a marker for the quality of the whole job. Offering headlight reconditioning as an add-on service is, for that reason, a worthwhile addition to a detailer's line-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn fleet and commercial vehicles, headlight reconditioning matters for safety: van fleets that run a lot at night or in poor visibility benefit from maximum headlight brightness. Regular headlight care as part of a fleet maintenance plan extends the service life of the headlights and pushes back the point where a costly headlight replacement becomes necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe HeadlightPolish in the product system — polish, sealant and reconditioning set\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX PROFILINE headlight care range, several products work together into a complete reconditioning concept. The HeadlightPolish handles the mechanical correction work — it pulls off the oxidation layer and brings the headlight up to high-gloss transparency. After polishing, a protective sealant is a must to lock the result in for the long haul. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-headlightcoating-scheinwerferversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightCoating \"CC\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the ceramic UV protective sealant that shields the freshly polished polycarbonate from renewed UV degradation and stretches the durability of the result out to several years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that want to offer headlight reconditioning as a full service, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-scheinwerferaufbereitungsset-aufbereitungsset\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Headlight Reconditioning Set\u003c\/a\u003e is a handy all-in-one: it holds all the materials for the full process — sandpapers for the pre-step on heavily yellowed headlights, the HeadlightPolish for the polishing phase, and the HeadlightCoating for the final UV protection. For shops bringing this service in fresh, the set shortens the learning curve and takes the guesswork out of picking materials.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with third-party headlight cleaning products, the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish brings the advantage of a matched product system: the polish formula is built so that the polycarbonate ends up with an optimal surface for the HeadlightCoating after reconditioning — no residue, no incompatibility with the sealant polymer. In-system compatibility matters especially with headlights, since poor or insufficient bonding of the protective layer leads to quick flaking and so to a short-term win with no lasting effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml as well as a 2-pack and a 3-pack. The 250 ml size is the right one for one-off and occasional users: a pair of headlights typically takes 10–20 ml, so the 250 ml bottle is good for 12–25 full headlight jobs. For detailing shops running several cars a week, the 3-pack is the most economical option and keeps you stocked for longer without frequent reorders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe HeadlightPolish is well worth keeping as a fixed part of the service line-up for any shop that offers detailing across the board. Headlight reconditioning is a service plenty of customers actively ask for, and one that delivers a measurable value bump to the car — both in looks and in function. The combo of HeadlightPolish and HeadlightCoating as a complete headlight service is an attractive add-on that lifts the margin per detail without much extra work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish is the right product for anyone who wants to recondition yellowed and oxidised headlights like a pro. This professional headlight polish from the PROFILINE range is dialled in for polycarbonate surfaces, delivers clear and transparent results, and is the first step of a complete headlight reconditioning process that's finished off with the HeadlightCoating.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53521230889295,"sku":"D1-SNX-2761410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521230922063,"sku":"D1-SNX-2761410_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521230954831,"sku":"D1-SNX-2761410_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur_250ml.png?v=1730655082"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE FS \"05-04\" cutting compound","description":"\u003c!-- BLOCK 1: body_html --\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eUsed-car paint correction with heavy cut — SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 do? This medium-aggressive cutting compound rated 5\/4 (cut\/gloss) pulls out sanding marks down to P1500 sandpaper, normal paint weathering and light scratches — silicone-free, low-dust and with solid gloss after a single pass.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn used-car prep, efficiency is everything: one pass that both corrects and builds gloss saves time and product. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e is built exactly for that job — a medium-aggressive cutting compound with a cut grade of 5 and a solid gloss grade of 4 in the SONAX rating system. It's made for restoring normally weathered, lightly scratched paint, takes out sanding marks down to P1500 grit, and leaves a clean gloss that in many cases needs no second finishing pass. That makes the FS 05-04 a workhorse for the daily grind — especially where lots of cars need to be turned around economically and reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHeavy cut with a solid gloss build at the same time.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a cut grade of 5, the FS 05-04 sits in the upper-middle of the SONAX PROFILINE compounds — aggressive enough to reliably pull out nagging sanding marks down to P1500, oxidation layers and fine-to-medium scratches. At the same time, the gloss grade of 4 leaves a clean, even paint gloss after the work — often good enough as the final result in used-car prep. That combination cuts the total number of polishing steps you need and pushes up the profit per car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free, low-dust and odourless — professional working properties.\u003c\/strong\u003e The silicone-free formula guards against fish-eyes in later refinish work and makes the FS 05-04 a safe pick in a body-shop setting, where cars may go on to more bodywork after polishing. The low-dust behaviour keeps the working surface clean, makes the wipe-down easier and protects both the machine and the adjacent panel areas. The odourless character improves working comfort — especially in enclosed halls or when you're working through bigger batches of cars.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for use with variable-speed polishing machines.\u003c\/strong\u003e The FS 05-04 formula is dialled in for variable-speed rotary polishers — a machine type widely used in the pro world that delivers high cutting power and even material removal. The paste shows its best behaviour at medium-to-higher speeds: reliable cut in the first phase, a controllable break-down point, and clean gloss as you work it out. It also works on dual-action machines, though the cut sits a touch lower there because of the lower downforce and different motion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For used-car prep with the FS 05-04 we'd run it like this for repeatable results: work it panel by panel with a medium-firm foam pad on a rotary — 900–1200 rpm for normal cutting, stepping up to 1500 rpm for stubborn sanding marks. Lay the paste down thin over roughly a 50×50 cm working area, spread it slowly first, then work it out until the paste turns clear. Always do a test patch first — especially on unknown cars with possibly repainted panels or thin clearcoat. After the FS 05-04, one pass with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e as a finishing polish is usually enough for a mirror-smooth high-gloss finish. On normally weathered paint without deep scratches, the FS 05-04 can often be run as a stand-alone solution too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE rating system — what 05-04 means and why it's key to picking the right compound\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX rates every PROFILINE compound on one consistent two-digit system: the first number is cutting power (abrasiveness), the second is gloss ability — each on a scale from 1 (minimal) to 6 (maximal). This system lets you place a product in your polishing workflow fast and clearly, without digging through the full product description. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e stands for a mix of high cutting power (5) and good, if not maximal, gloss ability (4) — the classic profile of a compound that corrects paint defects while leaving a presentable gloss behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn practical terms, cut grade 5 means: the abrasive particles in the FS 05-04 are big and hard enough to reliably pull out normally weathered paint (oxidation, dull spots, baked-in dirt particles) and sanding marks down to P1500 grit. P1500 is a typical grit for wet-sanding as prep before polishing — if you've got to polish out wet-sanding marks, the FS 05-04 has you covered. At the same time, cut grade 5 stays controllable — with the right machine setup and technique, the risk of burning through the clearcoat stays manageable even on thinner paint, as long as you know the material's limits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGloss grade 4 means: once the cutting compound is worked out, a clean, even gloss is left on the paint — clearly better than the untouched, oxidised starting state, but still with a faint hologram haze that shows up under direct light. That hologram haze is the typical signature of a compound, and it comes out fully with a finishing pass (say the NP 03-06 or the PerfectFinish). In used-car prep — where the end result often isn't inspected under studio lighting — gloss grade 4 is enough as the final result in many cases.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the FS 05-04 right — machine setup, foam pad and workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eFS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e right starts with machine choice: for the best results, a variable-speed rotary polisher is the ideal tool. Rotaries generate high surface heat through their circular spin and a controllable material removal — ideal conditions for the FS 05-04's cutting particles. Recommended speed ranges: 900–1200 rpm for normal used-car prep (oxidation, weathering, fine scratches), 1200–1500 rpm for more stubborn sanding marks after P1500 wet-sanding. Higher speeds improve cutting power but also raise the heat input — a trade-off that takes experience.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFoam pad choice: for the FS 05-04, a medium-firm foam pad (medium-cut pad) works best — soft finishing pads kill the cut too much, while very hard wool or microfibre pads push the cut up further, which can be risky on unknown paint. A proven middle ground is a yellow-orange foam pad in the medium hardness range, which gets the most out of the FS 05-04 without removing more material than you need. On dual-action machines (DA machines) you can pick a slightly harder pad to make up for the lower downforce of the DA action.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep-by-step workflow: 1. Clean the paint (pre-foam, iron remover, tar remover), 2. Measure paint thickness (a paint depth gauge is recommended on unknown cars), 3. Work a test patch (one panel per side to dial in the machine setup), 4. Work panel by panel (roughly 40×50 cm working areas), 5. Check the result under low LED light (to make holograms show up), 6. If needed, a finishing pass with the NP 03-06 or PerfectFinish, 7. Seal the paint (polymer sealant or ceramic coating). Wipe the FS 05-04 off with a clean microfibre buffing cloth once it's worked out — don't let it dry and then scrub it hard, since dried compound residue can damage the clean finished surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eImportant note on paint temperature: the FS 05-04 should be worked on paint surfaces between 15–30 °C. Paint that's too cold (under 10 °C) stops the abrasive particles from working in evenly; paint that's too hot (direct sun, summer heat) lets the paste dry out too fast and makes working it out harder. In summer, work in the hall or in the early morning hours.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsed-car upgrading with the FS 05-04 — typical damage profiles and results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe main use case for the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e is professional used-car upgrading: cars with two to ten years of use, whose paint has lost its original gloss to UV exposure, wash-bay contact, mechanical effects and weather. Typical damage profiles where the FS 05-04 works best: oxidised, dull paint with a gloss haze; water spots that won't come off with a normal wash; fine-to-medium scratches from improper cleaning (car-wash damage, wipe marks); sanding marks after wet-sanding down to P1500 as prep for deep-scratch removal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the FS 05-04 can't do: deep scratches that reach into the basecoat or primer can't be fully removed by polishing — polishing doesn't add material, it takes it off. If you want to remove heavy impact marks, parking dings or deep-running scratches, you've got to either prep with much coarser sandpaper (P800–P1200) and start with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e for the heavy cut, before bringing in the FS 05-04 for the fine correction. This multi-stage approach is everyday practice at the used-car dealer or in the pro detailing shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicle fleets and used-car dealers with high throughput, the FS 05-04 in the 5-litre container is especially economical: a consistent, repeatable result across many cars, combined with low paste use per panel (typically 3–5 ml for a 40×50 cm working area), makes the 5-litre container a cost-efficient tool in daily operation. On show and display cars, where the visual condition directly affects the asking price, running the FS 05-04 as a standard prep step is a sensible investment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFS 05-04 in comparison — where it sits in the SONAX PROFILINE compound range\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE compound range has a matched solution for every use case. Placing the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e in the range is directly comparable through the rating system: if you need an even more aggressive cut for deeper scratches or wet-sanding from P1000, you grab the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut 6+\/3\u003c\/a\u003e (cut grade 6+, gloss grade 3) — the highest abrasiveness in the range, but lower gloss ability that always needs a finishing pass. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CutMax 6\/4\u003c\/a\u003e sits with cut grade 6 and gloss grade 4 between the UltimateCut and the FS 05-04 — also for aggressive corrections, but with a touch better gloss than the UltimateCut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe FS 05-04 at 5\/4 is the compromise product for the typical prep job — cut high enough for most used-car damage profiles, gloss good enough to skip a finishing pass in many cases. For people who want even better gloss alongside a solid cut, the PROFILINE Cut+Finish 5\/5 is an interesting alternative: same cut as the FS 05-04, but one step better gloss ability (5 instead of 4) — though at a higher price per litre. The choice between the FS 05-04 and the Cut+Finish comes down to whether you want to skip the final finishing pass regularly or not.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a follow-up polish after the FS 05-04, two picks make sense depending on the result you want: the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e (cut grade 3, gloss grade 6) for a quick finishing pass with maximum gloss, or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish 4\/6\u003c\/a\u003e for cases where structured rework is still needed after wet-sanding. Both finishing polishes work the FS 05-04's holograms out fully and prep the paint for a final sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 — container sizes, target audience and bottom line\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in three container sizes: 250 ml for first use, the test in the shop or the occasional single-car job; 1 litre as the standard container for regular prep of small-to-medium car volumes; and 5 litres for used-car dealers, car rental firms and detailing businesses with high throughput. Pick the container size based on how often you'll actually use it — compounds have a limited shelf life once opened, and an oversized container that sits in the shop for years loses effectiveness as the emulsion separates and dries out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho the FS 05-04 is for: professional vehicle detailers focused on the used-car business, dealers and shops that take cars in part-exchange and visually upgrade them before resale; car-wash businesses with a prep service; detailing studios after an economical compound for standard correction jobs, without having to set up a multi-stage polish for every car. For home users who want to prep their car once a year, the 250 ml container is enough — though running a rotary machine is a must to reach the specified cutting power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 is the right cutting compound when you want to correct in one pass and land a presentable gloss result. The mix of cut grade 5 and gloss grade 4, the silicone-free, low-dust formula, plus the choice of three container sizes make it a versatile tool in the daily polishing grind. If you want a product that runs economically, safely and repeatably in used-car prep, the FS 05-04 is a solid, proven solution.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57344960790863,"sku":"D1-SNX-3193000","price":39.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57344960823631,"sku":"D1-SNX-3195000","price":158.27,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04_250ml.png?v=1774730669"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-sp-06-02-schleif-politur-heavy-cut","title":"PROFILINE SP \"06-02\" Cutting Polish (Heavy-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches, sanding marks and overspray with SONAX PROFILINE SP \"06-02\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SP \"06-02\" from SONAX PROFILINE do? This silicone-free heavy-cut compound with cut level 6 removes sanding marks up to P1200, overspray, etching damage and deeply embedded scratches on all paints — as the first step in a professional polishing workflow.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional paint correction there's no \"one-does-it-all\" polish. A solid multi-step workflow splits the job: first a heavy-cut compound grinds out the coarse defects, then a finishing polish refines the result until the paint sits there free of marring and with maximum gloss. That role as the first and most powerful step is exactly what the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SP 06-02\u003c\/strong\u003e takes on — a silicone-free cutting compound with cut level 6, built for work with the rotary polisher. It removes sanding marks from wet-sanding up to P1200, overspray, etching damage from bird droppings, insects and tree sap, plus badly weathered single-stage paints. SONAX PROFILINE's SP polish system is firmly established in professional paint correction: the clearly defined cut and gloss levels let you plan a multi-stage workflow precisely, where every polish handles exactly what it was built for — and the SP \"06-02\" is the strongest, most abrasive tool in the whole set. It stands for the first, decisive step, without which the refinement steps that follow couldn't do their job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCut level 6 for defects other polishes can't touch.\u003c\/strong\u003e Deeply embedded scratches, sanding marks after wet-sanding with P1000 or P1200, baked-on overspray and heavily oxidised paint surfaces: those are the jobs the SP \"06-02\" was designed for. Conventional medium-cut polishes at cut level 4 or 5 fall short here — the SP \"06-02\" clears them systematically and under control, without stripping away more clear coat than it needs to.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free — fit for rework and respray jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone-based polishes leave behind residues that are hard to remove and can cause fisheyes and adhesion problems on later respray or sealing work. The SP \"06-02\" is formulated completely silicone-free — it leaves no traces that get in the way of later paint correction, which makes it the standard for professional shops and bodyshops that also respray.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDefined finish for predictable follow-up polishing.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SP \"06-02\" leaves a defined, even finish on the paint that the follow-up polish PROFILINE FS 05-04 can refine in a targeted, efficient way. The matched cut and gloss levels in the PROFILINE system are no accident — they let you run a workflow where the next step always builds on the last, with no needless in-between passes or do-overs.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e always work the SP \"06-02\" on clean, dust-free paint and degrease the surface beforehand with an IPA mix (isopropyl alcohol) to pull off residues from waxes or care products. On the first pass, use higher pressure (5–10 kg) at lower speed (800 RPM) to activate the abrasive and cut down the defect. Then drop the pressure and raise the speed (1200 RPM) for the refining phase. Always work in a crosshatch pattern to avoid transitions. After the SP \"06-02\", always check the defined finish under good lighting before moving on to the FS 05-04.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut level 6 and gloss level 2 — how the SP \"06-02\" works through paint defects\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE system defines cut and gloss levels on a scale that makes picking the right polish for each defect level easy. Cut level 6 is the highest cut in the SP range — it's an aggressive cut that reaches even stubborn defects like deeply embedded scratches and wet-sanding marks up to P1200. At the same time, gloss level 2 means the SP \"06-02\" leaves a certain haze after polishing that a finishing polish has to refine further. That's not a drawback, it's the plan: a heavy-cut compound that also delivers maximum gloss always compromises either the cutting power or the finish. The SP \"06-02\" is optimised for the first step — and it does that step so well that the second step with the FS 05-04 becomes efficient and predictable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive formulation of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SP 06-02\u003c\/strong\u003e works with mineral abrasives that turn actively abrasive under the pressure of the rotary polisher. These so-called \"breaking down\" abrasives break apart as the polishing goes on: on the first pass at high pressure they hit with their full aggression, on the second pass at reduced pressure they get finer and produce a more even finish. This self-breaking behaviour is why the SP \"06-02\", despite its cut level 6, gives a controlled and predictable result — the paint isn't removed at random, it's worked systematically. If you want to understand why professional detailers rate the PROFILINE system, here's one of the core reasons: the chemistry works with the machine, not against it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for practice: the SP \"06-02\" is built for work with the rotary polisher, not for dual-action machines. Rotary machines generate the heat and pressure you need to activate the abrasives properly. With a dual-action machine at low cut and moderate pressure you can in theory use a heavy-cut compound, but the result and the efficiency are clearly worse. In the pro use the SP \"06-02\" is designed for, only the rotary machine comes into play — ideally with a wool pad for maximum cut, or a hard foam pad for a controlled finish on more delicate paints.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the SP \"06-02\" the right way — the rotary-polisher workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePhase 1 starts with a prepped paint area, cleared of dust and dirt. The panel you're working should also be at room temperature — cold paint reacts to the abrasives differently than warm, and below 10 °C the polish can't reach its full effect. Put product on the pad — not too much, about 4–6 pea-sized drops for an area of roughly one square metre. Then start at 5–10 kg pressure at 800 RPM and move evenly across the area you're working. The higher pressure activates the abrasives and makes sure the defects come out efficiently. This phase takes about 30 seconds per square metre and is the actual cutting step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePhase 2 follows straight after: drop the pressure to 1–2 kg, raise the speed to 1200 RPM. Now the SP \"06-02\" switches into the refining phase. The abrasives, now finer, level the surface created in phase 1 and produce the even, defined finish that's the ideal starting point for the follow-up FS polish. This phase takes about 60 seconds per square metre. Then lift the residue with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under good lighting — ideally with an LED inspection lamp. If defects are still showing, repeat the phase before you lay on the next polish. The crosshatch pattern matters here: even overlaps of 50 % of the pad face prevent transitions and uneven cutting depths.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical note on pad choice: the SONAX PROFILINE wool pad delivers the highest cut with the SP \"06-02\" and is first choice on hard-to-reach defects or large-area weathering damage. The hard foam pad offers a bit less aggression but a more even finish and less heat build-up — ideal on more delicate paints or when you want tighter control over the cut. So the call between the pads comes down to the paint's condition and the job: the more aggressive the defects, the more it's wool; the more delicate the paint, the more it's the hard foam pad. If you've got both pads in the set, you can switch from wool to the foam pad after the first round to harmonise the finish further before the FS 05-04 — that often saves a separate polishing pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the SP \"06-02\" the paint is in a state that still shows holograms and fine sanding marks under direct light — that's intended and expected. The follow-up polish's job is exactly that: to refine this defined finish further, until the paint sits there hologram-free and high-gloss. Using the SP \"06-02\" as your only polish and laying a wax over it wouldn't get you anywhere — it's the first step, not the last.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when the SP \"06-02\" is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" bites in situations where medium-cut polishes no longer cut it: freshly resprayed panels with orange-peel or sanding-grit marks, cars with deep swirl marks after years without professional correction, heavily weathered single-stage paints on classic cars, and above all follow-up work after wet-sanding with P1000–P1200. In damage repair — after hail damage with small sanding spots, after bird-dropping etches that have gone deep into the clear coat — the SP \"06-02\" is the tool of choice, because the medium polishes don't fully reach the depth of that damage. In overspray removal too, where you need the abrasive action to sand off the deposited foreign-paint particles, the SP \"06-02\" shows its full strength.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" has its limits on extremely thin or already heavily thinned paints. On cars that have already been professionally corrected several times and whose clear coat has little thickness left, you should measure the paint thickness before reaching for a heavy-cut product. That's no failing of the SP \"06-02\" — it's a general principle of any abrasive work that gets factored in automatically in pro use. Used correctly, the SP \"06-02\" removes defined and controllable amounts of clear coat and isn't a tool for the occasional user with no rotary experience. Professional detailers generally recommend always working a test area in a less visible spot before the first pass on an unknown car, to get a feel for the paint hardness and the cut — every paint reacts a little differently, and what works fine on a soft Japanese clear coat needs clearly more machine pressure and dwell time on a hard German clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" in the polish system — the three-step PROFILINE workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE polish system is designed as a matched three-step system. Step one: the SP \"06-02\" as a heavy-cut compound removes the coarse defects and creates the defined finish. Step two: the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur\"\u003ePROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/a\u003e — a medium-cut finishing polish with cut level 5 and gloss level 4 — refines the SP \"06-02\" result and clears the holograms and sanding marks left in the first step. Step three: the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003ePROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e brings the final high gloss with cut level 3 and gloss level 6 and leaves the paint in a mark-free state, ready for every sealant and protective product. This grading from 6 through 5 and 4 to 3 and 6 is no accident — it mirrors a carefully developed progression that does exactly what the next step needs at every stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've got fewer defects and want to get by with a single polish, you can reach for the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003ePROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e — a high-speed cutting polish built for one-step use on dual-action and rotary machines. The UltimateCut is aggressive and efficient, but not as strongly cutting as the SP \"06-02\", and it delivers a better finish at the same time — a trade-off that makes sense for a lot of everyday jobs. If instead you need maximum cut with a clearly defined follow-up workflow — and that's the typical demand in professional paint correction — you're best set up with the SP \"06-02\" in a full three-step system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the SONAX PROFILINE SP 06-02 pays off for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" is the right tool for professional detailers, painters and keen enthusiasts who work with the rotary polisher and want to tackle demanding paint defects systematically. It pays off whenever medium polishes no longer cut it: after wet-sanding, on deep scratches, on overspray or on heavily weathered paints. If you're after a single heavy-cut solution for pro use, you'll find the SP \"06-02\" a reliable, easy-to-run product from a matched system. Together with the FS 05-04 and NP 03-06 you get a complete, scalable correction workflow that suits practically any task in professional paint polishing — from simple scratch removal to full paint restoration. The 250 ml bottle suits getting started and trying the system out, the 1 L container the daily pro use. Deciding on the SP 06-02 also means deciding on a clear way of working: not fast and with cut corners, but systematic and with a result. For keen hobby detailers working their way into professional paint correction, the SP system is an excellent way in — the clear levels and the predictable behaviour make it easier to understand and fine-tune your own approach. For pros correcting cars every day, the SP \"06-02\" is a reliable constant in the workflow you can lean on without surprises. And for bodyshops that offer correction work alongside repairs, it's the right tool to tackle even the most stubborn paint damage systematically and with a reproducible result.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":57345086554447,"sku":"D1-SNX-3201410","price":13.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-sp-06-02_250ml.png?v=1774731897"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-os-04-05-hochglanz-politur-one-step","title":"PROFILINE OS \"04-05\" High-Gloss Polish (One-Step)","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePaint correction and high gloss in a single pass — the PROFILINE OS \"04-05\" put to work\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE OS \"04-05\" do? This one-step polish pairs medium cut with strong gloss — scratch correction and finishing in one pass, silicone-free and machine-ready for pro detailing and reconditioning work.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn pro reconditioning, efficiency feeds straight into the bottom line. A polish that delivers correction and finishing in a single pass doesn't just save time — it also cuts machine effort, pad wear and the fiddly swapping between polishing stages. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS \"04-05\"\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for exactly that: a one-step polish with medium cut and strong gloss that corrects scratches and lays down a deep high gloss in one machine pass. Available in 250 ml and 1000 ml, silicone-free formula — made for pro detailing and bodyshop use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCorrection and finishing in one pass for efficient turnaround.\u003c\/strong\u003e If you want to polish lightly to moderately scratched paint without running two separate stages, the OS \"04-05\" handles both jobs in a single session. The time saved per car is real — especially in a commercial setting, where every hour you claw back goes straight to the margin.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium cut corrects fine to medium scratches without eating into the clear coat.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasiveness is dialled in to clear holograms, wash marring and fine to medium oxidation with confidence. For most cars in everyday condition this cut is plenty — without needlessly burning through precious clear-coat thickness with abrasives that are too aggressive.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free formula for bodyshop use with no contamination risk.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone in care products is a headache for paint jobs: it stops top coats and clear coats from keying, and a quick clean rarely gets it fully off. The silicone-free formula of the OS \"04-05\" makes it a fit for bodyshops that go on to touch up or repaint the cars they've reconditioned.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The OS \"04-05\" gives its best on a medium foam pad on a dual-action polisher. Lay the product down evenly across the panel at low speed, then bring the speed up for the working pass. When the polish turns from cloudy to clear as you work it — a telltale sign the abrasives are breaking down — that's the sweet spot to buff off. Switch to a clean microfibre for the buff and check the result in raking light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe OS numbering explained — what 04-05 tells you about cut and gloss\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX labels its PROFILINE polishes with a pair of numbers that tell you straight away what the product does: the first number is the cut, the second is the gloss. The scale runs from 1 (minimal) to 6 (maximal). That puts the OS \"04-05\" at medium-to-strong cut with high gloss to match — an ideal combo for a one-step approach: enough bite for real correction work, enough gloss for a finish you can show off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"OS\" in the name stands for \"One-Step\" — the idea of rolling cut and gloss into a single product. Classic two-step workflows start with a heavy-cut compound that mechanically removes scratches, then follow with a finishing polish that clears holograms and builds depth. The OS line drops that second step: the abrasive particles cut aggressively at first, then break down into smaller particles that create the final finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range has several OS variants built for different starting points and paint conditions. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-os-02-06-hochglanz-politur-versiegelung-one-step\"\u003ePROFILINE OS \"02-06\"\u003c\/a\u003e has less cut (02) with even higher gloss (06) and a built-in wax sealant — it's the right call for near-new or already reconditioned paint that only needs a care polish with no real correction. The OS \"04-05\" cuts harder and is aimed at paint in typical everyday condition with fine to medium scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe idea of breaking-down abrasives — known as diminishing abrasives — is a make-or-break factor for the quality of a one-step polish. Cheap products with fixed abrasives cut evenly aggressive from start to finish; the leftover on the buff can then leave coarse polishing marks in the paint that force a follow-up finishing step. With the OS \"04-05\" the abrasives break up more and more under pressure and heat, get progressively finer, and automatically create a finer surface by the end of the pass. That physical process is the core reason pro-grade one-step polishes work — and why cheap all-in-one polishes can't replace them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the one-step polish — a machine-friendly workflow for DA and rotary\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS \"04-05\" is built for machine application. By hand you'll barely get a one-step polish with this cut to work properly, because the pressure and speed for full scratch correction just aren't there. In a pro setting you're reaching for either a dual-action polisher or a rotary — both work with the OS \"04-05\", but they give different results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith the dual-action polisher (DA), the margin for error is far bigger than on a rotary: the random motion of the DA stops holograms and swirls from forming, even if the machine dwells a moment longer in one spot. That makes the DA the go-to for anyone stepping into machine work and for shops that want high throughput with a consistent result. A medium foam pad in the 135–145 mm range is the one to reach for with the one-step polish on a DA.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith a rotary you get more cut from the same polish — and on heavily scratched paint that can make a real difference. The rotary asks for more experience, because overheating and holograms are on the table if the pad and movement speed aren't right. A softer pad than you'd run on the DA helps keep the hologram risk down. For experienced detailers the rotary paired with the OS \"04-05\" is a very fast combo for correction work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGetting the amount right is an underrated factor: too little polish on the pad dries out too fast and won't cut evenly. Too much flings off the pad at high speed and just wastes product with nothing to show for it. As a rough guide: about four to five pea-sized dots on the pad for a standard panel like a bonnet or driver's door. Before the first pass, spread the pad slowly over the panel before you bring the speed up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePad care between panels is another quality factor that's easy to overlook day-to-day. A caked pad with dried-on polish residue cuts worse than a fresh one and can even put scratches into delicate surfaces. In a pro setting a pad washer or a pad cleaning brush pays off, so you can clean the pad regularly through a long detailing session. Otherwise, keep a stack of pads on hand so there's always a fresh one ready without breaking your flow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it works and where it stops — which paints and scratch patterns suit the OS \"04-05\"\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS \"04-05\" covers the widest working range in the PROFILINE one-step line. Cars in normal everyday condition — parking marring, wash swirls, fine holograms from earlier work, light weathering oxidation — are ideal candidates for the OS \"04-05\". In these cases a single pass is enough to bring a clearly better gloss level and a cleanly corrected surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS \"04-05\" hits its limit where deep scratches or heavily oxidised clear coats call for more cut. A deep scratch that catches your fingernail as you run it over reaches into the base coat or even through the clear — here you need a heavy-cut compound before a one-step polish makes any sense. On heavily matted surfaces with pronounced clear-coat oxidation, it also pays to start with an aggressive compound like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003ePROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\"\u003c\/a\u003e to prep the surface before the OS \"04-05\" takes over the finishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS \"04-05\" has proven itself especially for used-car intake and trade-ins: cars with no known reconditioning history, where you have to judge the paint without a lengthy inspection, are quick to size up with a test panel. If the one-step polish visibly clears scratches and builds gloss on a test area, the cut is enough. If it doesn't, it's clear a more aggressive product is needed first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that matters for commercial use: always run the test panel on a low-visibility spot — the B-pillar, say, or the lower edge of a rear door — so an unexpected result leaves no visible damage on a main panel. For shops that regularly work on cars of unknown origin and prior treatment, a structured polishing triage is a must: decontamination first, then the test panel, then the call on which product to run for the full detail. That approach heads off costly mistakes and gives the customer a consistently good result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn high-gloss paint in darker colours — black, anthracite, dark blue — polishing marks show up especially clearly. If you spot holograms on these tones after the pass, you can optionally add a short refining step with a soft finishing pad and the lighter \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003ePROFILINE NP \"03-06\"\u003c\/a\u003e to clear any remaining fine marks and deepen the gloss a touch more. In most cases, though, that's not needed on light to medium tones — with the right pad the one-step polish leaves a hologram-free, deep high-gloss result right off the bat, ready to show.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe OS \"04-05\" in context — where it sits in the PROFILINE polish matrix\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE polish range has the right product for every level of correction. To make the right call, it helps to look at the whole spread: on one side the heavy-cut compounds with high cut and low gloss, on the other the finishing polishes with minimal cut and maximum gloss. The OS products sit across that as one-step solutions: they skip the highest cut grades but pair practical correction with good gloss numbers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHead to head with the OS \"02-06\", the difference is clearly the situation you're in: the OS \"02-06\" is a care polish with wax sealant for regularly maintained cars that need no correction — it shines beautifully and seals at the same time, but has next to no bite for scratches. The OS \"04-05\" is the one-step answer for cars that need real correction. If you're working fleet cars that have picked up clear marks between intervals, you reach for the OS \"04-05\".\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst a classic two-step workflow with Cut+Finish \"5\/5\" followed by a finishing polish, the OS \"04-05\" saves time at the cost of maximum correction depth. If you want to bring a car up to show-car level, there's no getting around the two separate steps. For the everyday detailing operation that does several cars a day in reasonable time and wants a good — but not perfection-chasing — result, the OS \"04-05\" is the more economical call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical decision framework for picking the polish: if the car after washing and decontamination shows only fine wash swirls under an LED lamp and no deep scratches — the OS \"04-05\" is enough. If deep individual scratches or patches of heavy oxidation are present — start with Cut+Finish or a heavy-cut polish, then optionally finish with the OS \"04-05\". If the car was freshly reconditioned only a few months back — the OS \"02-06\" for care with no real removal. Those three scenarios cover the bulk of daily reconditioning work, and for the middle case the one-step polish with the 04-05 rating is usually the right answer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the SONAX PROFILINE OS \"04-05\" is right for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS \"04-05\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the polish for pro detailers who work cars every day and want a reliable one-step solution for the standard case. Dealerships, used-car traders, rental fleets and mobile detailers all benefit from a product that delivers a clean result in a single pass on typical everyday condition. The 1000 ml bottle is made for continuous use; the 250 ml bottle suits the individual user or testing before a bulk order.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe silicone-free formula also makes the polish a fit for shops that offer both detailing and paint repair under one roof. If you take reconditioned cars into the spray booth afterwards or do partial repaints, you have to be sure that polish residue won't cause fish-eyes, wetting problems or adhesion issues in fresh top coat. With the silicone-free formula of the one-step polish, that risk factor is reliably off the table.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 stocks the one-step polish in both bottle sizes and is happy to help pick the right one-step product for your particular use. If you're unsure which OS variant suits your needs better, the best move is to describe the typical paint condition of the cars you work on — then we can make the recommendation precise. For shops new to the PROFILINE polish range, the 250 ml bottle is the sensible way in, to dial in pad choice and machine settings on a test car before ordering the 1-litre bottle for full-time use.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":57345087308111,"sku":"D1-SNX-2121410","price":16.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57345087340879,"sku":"D1-SNX-2123000","price":43.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-os-04-05_1liter.png?v=1774731877"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-clay-knetmasse","title":"PROFILINE Clay Bar","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMechanically decontaminate the paint surface — the SONAX PROFILINE Clay Bar at pro level\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat sets the Clay Bar from the SONAX PROFILINE range apart? This high-grade pro clay made in Japan pulls stubborn contamination like fallout, tar, industrial fallout and brake dust off paint, glass and chrome without scratching the surface — mechanically, no chemistry, in a 100 g hand-sized piece.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRegular washing and chemical cleaners shift plenty of contamination — but not all of it. Fallout, baked-on industrial fallout, stubborn tar spots and adhesive residue lock mechanically into the paint surface and stay put despite shampoo and pre-wash. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Clay Bar\u003c\/strong\u003e pulls this contamination off through mechanical shearing: the clay glides over the surface you've wetted with lube and \"catches\" the dirt particles sticking up out of the paint, trapping them in the clay — a physical process that cleans deeper than any cleaner on its own.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMark-free mechanical cleaning thanks to the Japanese formula.\u003c\/strong\u003e The PROFILINE product is based on an original product from Japan — a country known for precisely made detailing clays with an even particle spread. The finely tuned consistency lets it grab dirt particles without leaving marks behind — as long as you use plenty of lube and work the clay with a light hand rather than pressure.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHolds its shape, non-sticky, long-lasting.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike cheap clays that turn tacky after a short while, fall apart or leave residue on the paint, this clay keeps its shape and stays grippy. Storing it dry and germ-free in the box it comes in gives you a long service life across plenty of details.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks on paint, glass and chrome.\u003c\/strong\u003e Every exposed vehicle surface that takes regular environmental hits can be worked with the Clay Bar — clear coat, toughened glass, chromed trim and alloy wheels. The 100 g hand size is enough to do a full mid-size car and lets you work precisely in tight spots.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always use plenty of lube — best of all the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-quickdetailer\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE QuickDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e sprayed straight onto the surface. Never use the clay on a dry surface; the drag it creates puts in scratches. Fold the clay over once after each pass to move the dirt you've picked up to the inside and bring a fresh clay face to the surface. When the clay goes too dark or the dirt particles won't fold away anymore, it's spent and should go in the bin — never re-knead it and carry on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow claying decontaminates the paint surface — the physics and how it works in detail\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Clay Bar\u003c\/strong\u003e works on a physical principle that's fundamentally different from chemical cleaning. Chemical cleaners shift contamination through a pH reaction or solvent action — alkaline cleaners emulsify grease, acidic cleaners dissolve limescale, and iron removers react with rust particles. Claying, on the other hand, mechanically \"shears\" contamination off the paint surface: the slightly tacky consistency of the clay bonds with dirt particles that sit above the paint level and tears them out of their anchoring as you pull the clay along.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis mechanism explains why claying is irreplaceable for certain contamination and can't be fully swapped out for any chemical method. Baked-in fallout — microscopic metal particles thrown off by braking and rail traffic that bake into the clear coat — is reachable for chemical iron removers, as long as the oxidation hasn't gone too deep yet. For everything else that won't shift chemically, the mechanical action of the clay is the better tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe quality of the clay decides how gentle this process is. Cheap clays hold hard particles spread unevenly or have a consistency that's too firm, so they act like sandpaper when you drag them over the paint. Japanese production stands for an even spread of plasticisers and tested particle sizes that make sure the clay grabs dirt without leaving its own marks or scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that often gets underrated day-to-day is how claying affects the polishing that comes after. On a surface that hasn't been decontaminated, the clear coat still holds embedded foreign bodies that act like tiny grinding particles during polishing — the polish can't carry the pad evenly across the surface, and the result falls short of what's possible. After claying you've got a smooth, particle-free surface where the polish's abrasives only work the clear coat — the polishing process becomes repeatable and the high-gloss result predictable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter claying the paint surface is typically satin-smooth and slick — every bit of sealant residue has been pulled off by the lube and the claying. The \"nail test\" feel, where you run a finger wrapped in plastic film over the untreated surface and feel roughness, vanishes completely after claying. This roughness-free surface is the ideal base for the polishing or sealing that follows.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the SONAX PROFILINE Clay Bar properly — prep, lube and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe basic requirement for safe claying is a thoroughly pre-washed surface. Loose dirt particles on the paint — sand, coarse grit — have to be off before you clay, since they get between clay and paint and can put in scratches. A base wash with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean \"Alkaline\" pre-cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e takes off grease, silicone and surface dirt before the clay goes to work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe lube is the most critical variable in the clay process. A quick detailer with enough lubricating action — like the SONAX PROFILINE QuickDetailer — lets the clay glide over the surface without snagging or putting in scratches. Spray the QuickDetailer on generously over an area of about 40 × 40 cm before you bring in the clay. You can re-spray during claying as needed; too little lube noticeably ups the friction and is the clear signal to stop right away and spray more.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe technique is linear, not circular: you guide the clay in straight passes with very light pressure — pretty much just the weight of the clay itself — over the surface. Circular motions concentrate the shearing forces and up the scratch risk; straight passes spread the removal evenly. Fold the clay over once after each pass to hide the dirt you've picked up and bring a fresh clay face to the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter claying there's QuickDetailer residue left on the surface, which you take off with a clean \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-microfasertuch-soft-touch-mikrofasertuch\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MicrofaserTuch \"Soft Touch\"\u003c\/a\u003e. The surface is then ready to polish — the full removal of wax and sealant residue through the claying often makes a separate degrease unnecessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eClay Bar use cases — when claying is needed and where the limits are\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Clay Bar can be used on every smooth, glossy vehicle surface: clear coat on bodywork and bumpers, toughened glass on the side and rear windows, chromed or polished metal trim and alloy wheels. On these surfaces it pulls off every kind of clinging industrial fallout, fallout, tar spots, adhesive residue and stubborn water spots that chemical cleaning couldn't fully shift.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical test for whether claying is needed is the \"plastic film test\" or \"nail test\": cover a freshly washed vehicle with a small piece of plastic film and run your finger over it — if you feel clear roughness, the surface is contaminated and claying is needed. After the work you repeat the test: a genuinely clean, decontaminated surface feels smooth as glass. This simple check also works to show the customer and makes the added value of the clay step immediately tangible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eVehicles with especially heavy contamination loads — vehicles that regularly sit near industrial or rail areas, company cars on open car parks, or vehicles after nearby paint work — benefit from regular clay treatments. In a professional detailing protocol, claying sits after pre-cleaning and before polishing: wash first → iron remover → clay → polish → seal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn important step after claying that often gets overlooked is drying the surface thoroughly before polishing. The lube (QuickDetailer) leaves a thin residual film after you wipe it off, which can affect how the polish works. With high-gloss polishes this is mostly no problem; with sealants and coatings that need an absolutely clean, dry surface, a final wipe-down with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is worth it — it takes off all lube residue and sets the surface up ideally for the next step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe limits of claying are with surfaces that have no clear-coat seal. Matte paint and matte wraps simply aren't suited to claying — the clay and lube would change the micro-textured matte surface and wreck the matte character. Extremely deep-set contamination, where the foreign body has gone in under the clear-coat surface, can't be pulled off with the clay either; that's where an abrasive polish or paint correction is needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eClay Bar compared — claying vs chemistry, clay pad and clay cloth\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the modern detailing market there are various approaches to mechanical decontamination of the paint surface that complement the classic clay bar or replace it in certain areas. Each method has its pros and cons, and understanding these differences helps you pick the right tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eClay pads for polishing machines — pads made of polyethylene or similar synthetics — allow machine decontamination with higher area output. They're more efficient on big surfaces like the bonnet and roof, but less precise in tight spots like mirror housings, door edges and grille angles. The hand clay is the better choice in these areas and indispensable for precise, controlled claying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eClay cloths (cleaning cloths with a clay-coated surface) are another modern alternative that's easier to handle than a loose clay bar — you wipe the cloth straight over the surface without having to shape and fold it like a clay bar. The downside: if a clay cloth hits the floor it's contaminated — unlike a clay bar — and has to be binned. The hand clay, by contrast, can be wiped, kneaded and carried on with for surface-level dirt, as long as no coarse dirt particles have worked their way in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eChemical alternatives like fallout removers and iron removers are very effective for certain contamination types — above all oxidised iron particles — and take less manual work. Combining chemical decontamination (iron remover first) and claying afterwards is the gold standard in professional detailing: the iron remover loosens the oxidised iron particles first, and they're then pulled up far more easily by the clay. That way both tools are reduced to their respective strength, and the end result is a fully decontaminated surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE Clay Bar — use in a pro operation and the system idea\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE Clay Bar pays off in any detailing operation that offers full paint details. Without decontamination through claying, the detailing protocol is missing a key step — polishes on contaminated surfaces run straight over the baked-in foreign bodies and can't fully control the result. The 100 g unit is enough for one to two full vehicle details; for high-throughput operations it's worth keeping several units in stock.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE system workflow, the Clay Bar fills the step between the alkaline base clean with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger\"\u003eMultiClean \"Alkaline\"\u003c\/a\u003e and the polish itself. After claying the surface is roughness-free and low on sealant residue — in this state SONAX PROFILINE polishes work at maximum efficiency, because no foreign body is left to disturb the cutting action or act as scratch potential. Sealing off afterwards with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-brilliantshine-detailer-spruhversiegelung\"\u003eBrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e reliably protects the freshly detailed surface against quick re-soiling — and lays down a hydrophobic protective layer that pushes the next claying far into the future, because contamination clings far less to sealed surfaces than to unsealed clear coat — a cycle of cleaning and protecting that noticeably cuts the effort of every follow-up detail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eStoring the Clay Bar after use is simple but important: wipe the clay down with a clean microfibre cloth, knead it through well (to spread the dirt particles evenly), then store it dry in the box it came in. Damp storage promotes germ growth and can damage the clay structure over time. With the right care and storage the 100 g unit is usable across several details, which brings the cost per treatment down to an economical level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor operations that offer their customers full documentation of the detailing steps, the clay treatment is a convincing piece of added value to put across: customers you explain it to — that after washing their vehicle still had mechanically bound contamination in the surface that only claying could remove — grasp the difference between a simple car wash and a professional detail straight away, intuitively. Anyone who communicates the clay step visibly — say with a quick before-and-after test using the plastic film method — builds lasting trust and clearly sets their offering apart from cheaper competitors. The hands-on proof of \"smooth as glass\" after claying is more convincing than any brochure. That makes the Clay Bar not just a cleaning tool but a quality marker in the customer conversation too.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"100 g","offer_id":57345154842959,"sku":"D1-SNX-4505050","price":29.16,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-clay_1-stueck.png?v=1774736518"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-claydisc-150-lackknete-pad","title":"PROFILINE ClayDisc \"150\" clay pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMachine paint decon in a fraction of the time — SONAX PROFILINE ClayDisc \"150\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is a ClayDisc and how does it differ from a clay bar? This machine-driven clay pad from the PROFILINE line is built for random-orbital and DA polishers — it swaps hand-kneading for machine-speed decon, working the same area in a fraction of the time with more even cut.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEvery proper detail starts with decontamination: fallout, baked-on brake dust, industrial fallout and tree-sap contamination sit deep in the clearcoat and have to come off before you polish or seal. A classic clay bar does the job, but it eats time — on a mid-size car you're looking at 30–60 minutes by hand. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ClayDisc \"150\"\u003c\/strong\u003e cuts that down hard: as a 150 mm dia. clay pad for dual-action random-orbital machines, the machine does the claying for you. Time per car drops to 10–15 minutes — and the whole panel gets treated more evenly than you'd manage by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMachine decon up to 5× faster than a hand clay bar.\u003c\/strong\u003e With the machine doing the work, the ClayDisc walks across the paint in broad, even passes — no missed spots, no patchy pressure. The DA's orbital throw creates a randomised claying motion that beats a straight-line hand stroke: the surface gets hit from several angles, which pulls off stubborn contamination that shrugs off a one-directional pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks with DA random-orbital polishers on a standard hook-and-loop backing plate.\u003c\/strong\u003e The ClayDisc fits any orbital machine with a 150 mm dia. backing plate and Hook\u0026amp;Loop fastening — the standard format on most pro DA polishers. No adapter kit, no special machine. The clay is laid onto a carrier disc that takes the hook-and-loop directly and stays fully on the backing plate when you peel it — no delaminating, no clay layer lifting mid-job.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eReusable across plenty of cars — with the right care.\u003c\/strong\u003e The ClayDisc's clay picks up contamination and stores it in its surface. After each car, rinse the clay face with clean water and knead it (fold it in, squeeze it out) to work the trapped particles deeper and expose fresh surface. Look after it like that and one ClayDisc lasts several dozen cars before the face is fully saturated and needs replacing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always run plenty of lube with the ClayDisc — either a dedicated clay lubricant or, in a pinch, diluted car shampoo (2 ml to 500 ml water). Too little lube and the pad grabs and tears across the paint and can leave marring. Keep the machine at a low to medium speed (setting 2–3 on the DA) — more speed doesn't mean more decon, it just raises the risk of heat building up in the clay. After the ClayDisc pass, do a control wash or rinse with clean water before you prep the clearcoat for polish or sealant with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare degreaser\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eClayDisc \"150\" clay technology — material, abrasion grade and decon performance\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ClayDisc \"150\"\u003c\/strong\u003e uses a thermoplastic polymer clay laid as a thin working layer on a firm carrier disc. That carrier disc handles the mechanical link to the machine (hook-and-loop) and spreads pressure evenly across the whole clay face. The clay itself sits in the mid-range of the clay-aggression scale — punchy enough to lift baked-on iron particles, fallout, sap and caked industrial dust, but gentle enough that the claying doesn't carve deep scratches into the clearcoat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe aggression of a clay is a key parameter: too soft and it won't grab contamination effectively; too aggressive and it leaves marring in the clearcoat that you then have to polish out. The ClayDisc \"150\" sits in the medium to slightly aggressive band — plenty for most contamination on normal cars, without forcing a heavy correction pass afterwards just to clear marring. On very soft paint or fresh respray, do a test on a hidden spot, because any mechanical decon — even with lube — leaves minimal contact marks that can show up on very soft paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe DA's oscillating motion drives the clay across the surface from different angles and directions. That three-dimensional attack lifts contamination that sometimes holds firm under a one-directional hand stroke: the machine gets around the \"flow shadow\" that a directional claying motion can leave around firmly stuck particles. For very stubborn single spots — deep sap dots, say, or baked-in brake-dust deposits — a hand clay still wins on precision in those small areas, because you can build pressure more deliberately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne core advantage of the machine over hand claying is consistent pressure: by hand, the pressure swings with fatigue and the angle of your wrist; with the machine, it stays constant across the whole working face. That gives you a more even decon result — treated the same everywhere, never overdone anywhere. On cars with big flat areas like bonnets and roofs the edge is measurable: the feel after the ClayDisc pass (that famous glass-smooth paint) is more even than after hand claying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ClayDisc's clay is formulated to resist solvents: in contact with clay lubricants that carry small amounts of cleaning agents, the clay keeps its structure and elasticity. That matters, because some detailers use quick detailers or dedicated lubes as lube, and these carry surfactants and polymers — which would soften a non-solvent-resistant clay and change its surface texture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the ClayDisc \"150\" — lube, machine speed and the run\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe right ClayDisc routine in the prep process: car fully washed and dried; then snap the ClayDisc onto the DA; spray the paint with plenty of lube (the panel should glisten wet, not drip); at setting 2–3, run even passes across the panel, keeping light pressure; overlap each pass 50% with the last; rinse the panel with clean water afterwards and dry it off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLube is the single most critical variable with the ClayDisc. Too little and the clay drags hard on the paint — you'll feel it as grabbing or juddering in the machine. The second you feel that resistance, drop the speed and add more lube. Too much lube and the clay \"floats\" and loses mechanical contact — decon performance drops off. You've got the right amount when the machine glides smoothly across the panel without skating. Good rule of thumb: about 5–8 sprays of clay lubricant on a 50×50 cm panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor stubborn local contamination (sap spots, say, or heavily brake-dusted areas behind the wheel arches) you can work the ClayDisc over that area with more pressure and several overlapping passes. Just don't tilt the machine — the ClayDisc has to sit flat on the surface so the whole clay face works evenly. A tilted disc only works on its edge, which both cuts effectiveness and raises the risk of edge marks. Take the machine up to setting 3, put direct pressure on the contaminated spot and make 3–4 passes — the clay works its way into the contamination and lifts it off layer by layer. After that more intense bit, always spray fresh lube and finish the whole panel back at normal setting 2.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the ClayDisc pass, rinse the disc under running water and knead and squeeze it hard to work the picked-up contamination deeper into the clay. Visibly dark or heavily discoloured spots on the clay face show where most of the contamination landed — those spots get kneaded in deeper next time round to expose fresh surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe ClayDisc in the pro detailing process — workflow, time saved and quality control\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a pro detailing shop the ClayDisc \"150\" is an efficiency tool that re-frames the whole decon step. Without it: 45–60 minutes of hand claying per car, hard going and tiring on the wrist. With the ClayDisc: 10–15 minutes of machine decon, a more even result, less physical strain on the detailer. At 5 cars a day the ClayDisc saves 2.5–3.5 hours of working time daily — time that's far better spent on other steps in the detail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eQuality control after the ClayDisc pass is the touch test: run a freshly washed finger (in a protective glove) across the cleaned paint. A smooth, near-frictionless glide tells you the contamination is gone — the \"glass\" feel. Roughness and resistance as you glide mean there's contamination left, calling for either a second ClayDisc pass or a manual touch-up with the traditional \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-clay-knetmasse\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Clay bar\u003c\/a\u003e. The latter is often the more precise call for very small, stubborn spots — the ClayDisc for the open panels, the hand clay for the detail work.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eA common question in the shop: do you always have to polish after the ClayDisc? Technically no — claying on its own often leaves no visible marks, depending on clearcoat hardness and the lube you ran. Under strip lighting you'll see minimal contact patterns on very soft paint; on medium-hard to hard OEM clearcoat the paint is already very smooth and even after claying with no further work. If you're only sealing (no polish), a mild pass with a soft finishing pad and a light finishing polish is worth it to clear any clay marks and optimise the surface for the sealant to bond. Anyone polishing the car afterwards can often skip that intermediate step, since the polish removes the clay marks anyway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ClayDisc \"150\" is built primarily for the prep step before polishing. After a successful decon pass the paint is free of contamination, but the claying has left the finest surface marks — comparable to very fine scratches from a mild abrasive. Those marks come fully out in the following polishing step (even with a medium-hard foam pad and a mild polish), so the finished result after the full detail shows no clay marks at all. Seal straight after the ClayDisc without polishing and you risk locking those marks in under the sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eClayDisc \"150\" compared — clay disc vs. hand clay bar vs. chemical decon\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe classic \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-clay-knetmasse\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Clay bar\u003c\/a\u003e is the proven tool for hand decon — it lets you do precise detail work on edges, mirrors and small areas, but it eats time on big panels. The ClayDisc \"150\" is its counterpart for machine work on open areas: large-area, fast, even. In pro detailing the two tools sensibly work together: ClayDisc for the bonnet, roof, wings and doors; hand clay for bumper edges, the undersides of spoilers and spots the big disc can't reach well.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe alternative to mechanical decon is chemical iron removers and clay substitutes (clay towels, clay mitts). Chemical iron removers like the SONAX PROFILINE fallout remover dissolve metallic iron particles chemically — they're especially good on brake-dust iron particles, but they can't remove every type of contamination (sap, industrial fallout). Clay towels and clay mitts work much like the ClayDisc but are softer and better suited to delicate paint. The ClayDisc \"150\" pairs the abilities of a clay with the speed of the machine, which makes it the most efficient all-round tool for full-panel mechanical decon in a pro setup.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE ClayDisc \"150\" — planning, care and reuse\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor pro detailing shops decontaminating several cars a day, the ClayDisc \"150\" is a soundly economical investment: a well-cared-for ClayDisc lasts 30–50 cars or more, depending on how heavy the contamination is. By comparison, a hand clay typically drops off noticeably in cleaning power after 8–12 cars. The higher up-front price of the ClayDisc against a hand clay pays for itself quickly through the longer service life and the saved working time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTelltale signs of a spent ClayDisc: the clay face is dark all over (fully saturated with contamination), has no elasticity left, or shows cracks and lifting spots. A spent ClayDisc won't decontaminate effectively anymore, even rinsed with water — the clay has no capacity left to take on new contamination. In that state, replace it, since working on with a saturated disc gets you no cleaning power at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBetween cars, always store the ClayDisc damp — drying out turns the clay hard and brittle. If a dried-out clay face is wetted again, it takes several minutes for the elasticity to come back — and during that window working with the disc isn't advisable, since hard clay marks the paint rather than lifting contamination. Taking a break? Drop the ClayDisc straight into water. Easy method: lay the ClayDisc in a shallow plastic tray with a bit of water and keep it covered between uses. After the working day, store the ClayDisc cool in a damp, covered container. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 keeps the PROFILINE ClayDisc \"150\" in the range permanently. To get the most life out of the disc, it's worth running a chemical iron remover before the machine claying: it dissolves the iron-rich contamination chemically first, so the ClayDisc has less mechanical work to do and its clay face stays fresh longer.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1 piece \/ Ø 150 mm","offer_id":57345154941263,"sku":"D1-SNX-4512410","price":30.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-claydisc-150_1-stueck.png?v=1774736525"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-weich-125-polierpad","title":"PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich 125 polishing pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHologram-free finish polishing with the SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich 125 — soft, fine-pored, precise\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich 125 special? This soft, fine-pored finish polishing pad for random-orbital machines gets you hologram-free, deep-gloss results on delicate paint — thanks to an open-cell foam structure with optimal polish uptake and even pressure distribution.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn finish polishing, the last few microns of paint surface decide between success and failure — too hard a pad, too aggressive a polish or uneven pressure leaves holograms that only show up in direct sunlight. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich 125\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly this final stage: soft, fine-pored foam that takes up and releases polish evenly, gives you gentle cut without any hologram risk, and works precisely on random-orbital machines with a 125 mm backing plate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSoft foam structure for a hologram-free finish.\u003c\/strong\u003e The ExzenterPad weich 125 is made from fine-pored, soft foam that stores the polish in the pad and spreads it evenly across the paint through the orbital motion of the machine. This controlled release stops local build-ups that would cause uneven cut and holograms. The result is a clear, deep gloss with no inclusions left to chase down afterwards.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOptimised 140 mm diameter for a 125 mm backing plate.\u003c\/strong\u003e The pad has an outer diameter of 140 mm on a 125 mm backing plate — the 7.5 mm overhang on each side keeps the edge of the backing plate from touching the paint directly and leaving scratches. This sizing is dialled in for use on random-orbital machines like the SONAX PROFILINE PE12-2 random orbital or comparable 125 mm systems.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHook-and-loop backing for quick pad swaps.\u003c\/strong\u003e The back of the pad has a hook-and-loop system that lets you swap pads fast — no tools, no waiting. In a pro setting, where you run several pads for different steps during one detail, that quick swap is a real time-saver.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Lightly dampen the ExzenterPad weich 125 with water before its first use and \"prime\" it with a small amount of polish — let the machine run in briefly at low speed before you start the actual polishing pass. That saturates the pores of the pad evenly and stops the first few centimetres of panel getting worked with too much or too little polish. Clean the pad after every car with a pad brush or compressed air to pull out the polish residue it has soaked up and keep the pore structure open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuild and technology of the ExzenterPad weich 125 — foam structure, cell openness and polish uptake\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich 125\u003c\/strong\u003e is made from a soft, open-cell polyurethane foam whose structure is tuned specifically to work with the finish polishes in the SONAX PROFILINE line. Open-cell foam takes up polish better than closed-cell foam, because the connected pores hold the liquid polish in the pad by capillary action and release it evenly under pressure — much like a sponge soaks up water and gives it back when you squeeze it, but with a controlled flow rate set by the structure of the foam.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow soft the pad is has a direct effect on the cut: a hard pad transfers more pressure to the paint and delivers stronger cutting power — handy for heavy correction or scratch removal, but too aggressive for finish polishing. A soft pad like the ExzenterPad weich 125 cushions part of the pressure, which gives you a more even spread of force across the whole pad face. The result is a gentle but effective cutting process that lets finish polishes show their full effect without damaging the surface through high-pressure spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe thickness of the ExzenterPad weich 125 is chosen so that the orbital motion of the machine is damped — thicker pads damp the rotation more and give a softer feel at work, which is what you want for finish work on freshly corrected paint. Pads that are too thin pass the machine's motion straight onto the paint, which can leave marks with aggressive polishes. The ExzenterPad weich 125 is built around a thickness that activates the typical SONAX PROFILINE high-gloss polishes perfectly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother technical point is heat build-up while polishing. Soft pads generate less friction heat than hard pads thanks to the damped pressure transfer — an advantage on delicate paint such as single-stage clear coats, water-based paints or older paints with no hardener. Too much heat can soften these paints and lead to so-called \"buffer trails\" that are hard to remove. By the nature of its material, the ExzenterPad weich 125 runs inherently cooler than its harder counterparts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePad care and cleaning directly affect both lifespan and the quality of your results. After every use, pull the polish residue out with a pad brush or compressed air; after a work session, give it a basic clean with lukewarm water or a dedicated pad cleaner. Don't put foam pads in the dryer after a wet clean — the heat can damage the cell structure and harden the pad for good. Air-drying at room temperature keeps the open-cell structure, and with it the polish uptake, intact over many uses.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the ExzenterPad weich 125 the right way — machine, polish and speed\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad weich 125 is built as a pure finish pad and plays to its strengths on the final polishing step of a paint correction. In a typical two-stage detailing workflow you first run the correction with a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-medium-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/a\u003e or a hard pad — scratches, swirls and oxidised areas get removed. The ExzenterPad weich 125 then takes over the final polish: it works finish polishes into the corrected surface, removes the fine sanding marks from the previous stage and brings out the final high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe polish you pick has a big say in the result on the soft pad. Finish polishes like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP \"03-06\" high-gloss polish\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE EX \"04-06\" high-gloss polish\u003c\/a\u003e are tuned to work with soft pads: low abrasiveness, high gloss development, a low-residue formula. Don't run aggressive cutting compounds on the ExzenterPad weich 125 — the pad's low abrasiveness can't make the most of the polish's full cut, and the leftover sanding marks stay in the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the machine setting, the soft pad likes the mid speed steps (step 3–4 on a 6-step machine). Higher steps raise the friction heat and can wear the soft pad faster; steps that are too low don't fully activate the polish and drag out the working time with no gain in quality. You put the polish on the pad in small amounts as dots — about 3–4 pea-sized blobs for an area of 40 × 50 cm. Too much polish throws spatter while you work it in and stretches out the buffing time; too little lets the pad run dry and raises the friction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the random-orbital machine you work the ExzenterPad weich 125 in overlapping passes across the work area — a 50% overlap makes sure no stripes or transitions stay visible. Keep the contact pressure light: the dead weight of the machine is usually enough for the soft pad; pressing too hard compresses the pores and stops the polish spreading evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eResults and uses — which paints and cars the ExzenterPad weich 125 is ideal for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad weich 125 is built for delicate, modern clear coats that need a gentle, hologram-free final pass after correction. It's especially good for new cars with soft factory clear coats — these paints react badly to over-abrasion and show holograms fast when worked with pads that are too hard or polishes that are too aggressive. On these paints, the soft pad paired with a low-abrasive finish polish gets you results that are fully hologram-free to the naked eye and in direct sunlight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars with very soft paint — often from Japanese makers like Toyota, Mazda or Honda — the ExzenterPad weich 125 is the finish pad to reach for. These paints react strongly to pressure points and pad edges; the even pressure distribution of the soft pad stops the \"buffer trails\" that show up fast on such paint with harder pads. The pad's sizing for 125 mm systems suits the random-orbital machines most commonly used for detailing work on normal car panels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad weich 125 also suits one-step polishes that combine cut and gloss in a single step. On fresh, lightly marked paint — say a new-car prep or a regularly maintained vehicle — a soft pad paired with a one-step polish is enough to reduce the swirls that are there and build a deep gloss at the same time. This single-stage detailing saves time and is an economical option for shops with high vehicle throughput, without giving up quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you're detailing cars with ceramic coatings, the ExzenterPad weich 125 works there too — as an applicator pad for liquid ceramic coatings that go on and get worked in with a machine. In that use, the pad takes over from the hand applicator and lets you lay down a more even layer thickness across large areas. Cleaning the pad after a coating application does need special care, though, since cured ceramic residue can render the pad useless — so right after applying, flush the pad thoroughly with a solvent or isopropyl alcohol before the coating sets.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe ExzenterPad weich 125 compared — how it differs from the ExzenterPad medium and ExzenterPad hard\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad range covers three hardness grades, each built for a different step in the detailing workflow. Understanding the differences helps you pick the right pad for each step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad hard\u003c\/a\u003e is the correction pad for the first step — it transfers the machine's pressure straight onto the paint and fully activates the cut of cutting compounds. On a hard pad, a cutting polish removes deep scratches, swirls and heavy oxidation effectively, but leaves fine sanding marks in the paint that have to be removed in the next step. The ExzenterPad medium bridges the gap — it's softer than the hard pad, but still abrasive enough for polishing polishes that clean up the residual marks of the cutting step. The ExzenterPad weich 125 sits at the end of this sequence: maximum gentleness, minimum abrasion, maximum gloss development.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common day-to-day mistake is mixing different polish types on a single pad. Run several polishes one after another on the same pad and you risk unpredictable reactions between the formulas and uneven cut rates. In a pro setting the rule holds: one pad, one polish. When the polishing stage changes, the pad changes too — clearly labelled and stored separately. This principle applies to all three ExzenterPad hardness grades and gives you repeatable, quality-consistent results across many cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe choice between these hardness grades comes down to the state of the paint and the result you want. On a car with heavy weathering and deep scratches you start with the hard pad and work your way through the medium pad to the soft pad. On a near-new car with light swirls you can start straight off with the ExzenterPad medium or even the ExzenterPad weich 125 — no correction, just polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the ExzenterPad weich 125 — system recommendation and use in a pro setting\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother advantage of the PROFILINE system is how well it documents for a pro setting. Work with a clearly defined pad-and-polish system and pick the right pad for each paint type, and you can explain to the customer in a traceable way which tools were used for which result — a mark of quality that builds trust and generates repeat business. The ExzenterPad weich 125 can be clearly positioned as the \"finish pad, stage 3\" — transparent for the customer and firmly anchored in your own workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich 125 is aimed mainly at professional detailers, reconditioning shops and workshops that work with 125 mm random-orbital machines and want to finish the last polishing step carefully. As a single pad for a specific step in the workflow, it's tuned to all the random-orbital polishes in the SONAX PROFILINE line — from the NP \"03-06\" finish polish to the OS \"02-06\" one-step polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a pro setting it pays to buy several ExzenterPads weich 125 at once. Over the course of a detail the pad soaks up polish residue; run the same pad on the next car without cleaning it in between and worked-in dirt particles can act as a scratch risk. With a set of 3–5 pads you can fully detail a car without having to clean and dry pads mid-job — the shop stays efficient and the results stay consistent.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad weich 125 pairs ideally with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-medium-polierpad\"\u003eExzenterPad medium\u003c\/a\u003e for two-stage workflows or with the ExzenterPad hard for demanding three-stage corrections. Run the complete pad system from SONAX PROFILINE and you benefit from a matched product line where pads and polishes were developed together — no need to test compatibility between different makers by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1 piece","offer_id":57345155891535,"sku":"D1-SNX-4925000","price":12.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-weich-125_1-stueck.png?v=1774736579"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-filzpad-125-polierpad","title":"PROFILINE FilzPad 125 polishing pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eWork glass polish and sanding pastes precisely with the SONAX PROFILINE FilzPad 125\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX PROFILINE FilzPad 125 special? This aggressive felt disc is built for machine work with glass polishes and sanding pastes — it runs on glass, paint and metal polishes, where foam pads would be far too soft.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNot every polishing job comes off with a foam pad. Glass polishes, sanding pastes for deep paint damage and clouded plastic windows all need a material with much more cut of its own and a different fibre structure than foam. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FilzPad 125\u003c\/strong\u003e is made exactly for that: a dense, aggressive felt disc, 125 mm across, that runs on both dual-action and rotary machines and really shows its strength where soft foam simply won't generate enough cut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAggressive felt structure for maximum cut.\u003c\/strong\u003e Felt works in a fundamentally different way to foam: the tightly woven fibres deliver an even, high level of cut across the surface during machine polishing. Sanding pastes don't get soaked into pores — they get driven straight into the working area. That makes the FilzPad 125 especially effective on thick oxidation layers, clouded glass and every job where a foam pad just won't reach the abrasion you need.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for glass polishes and sanding pastes.\u003c\/strong\u003e Glass surfaces put particular demands on the tool: it can't leave residue behind, it has to polish evenly and it must not scratch the glass. Felt handles all of that better than foam, because the fibres have no pores where polish residue can dry in — and because the even fibre structure keeps pressure spread consistently across the whole working area.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e2 per pack for proper day-in, day-out use.\u003c\/strong\u003e In a high-throughput detailing shop, swapping between clean and used pads keeps the workflow tight. Two FilzPads per pack let you reach for a fresh one while the spent pad gets cleaned — no break between two cars. For heavy glass-correction jobs that burn through several pads per vehicle, the twin pack gives you the reserve you need.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e When you do glass correction with the FilzPad 125, always bring the glass up to temperature before you polish — cold glass reacts much more sluggishly to the polish. Don't lay the glass polish onto hot glass that's been baking in the sun, because it'll flash off far too fast. Aim for a glass temperature between 15 and 25 °C, for example by prepping in the shade. For windscreens, the rule is: always polish with the rear-window heater switched off and the side windows wound all the way down, so you don't cook the seals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFelt-pad technology in detail — why felt beats foam on glass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe basic difference between a \u003cstrong\u003eFilzPad 125\u003c\/strong\u003e and a foam pad is in the material structure. Foam is open- or closed-cell — it holds a lot of air and gives way under pressure. That makes foam pads ideal for controlled pressure spread on paint, because the pad follows contours and dampens the energy. Felt, on the other hand, is made of tightly woven or matted fibres with no real air pockets. It compresses only minimally under pressure and transfers the machine's energy straight onto the working area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat direct transfer is the decisive advantage on glass polishes: the abrasives in glass polish need a defined contact pressure to do their work. A foam pad that gives way under load drops that effective pressure and so cuts the polish's bite. The FilzPad 125 holds the pressure constant, which lets even the fine abrasive grains in the polish reach their full effect — even at low speeds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother technical plus: the felt's fibre texture spreads the abrasive differently to foam. Foam pulls polish into its pores and gives it back up under pressure and heat — which leads to uneven spread when the pressure shifts. Felt fibres have no pores: the polish stays on the surface of the fibres and gets spread evenly across the working zone. On glass that means fewer smears, more even polishing marks and a more predictable result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCleaning the FilzPad after use also works differently to foam. Felt mats up under heavy pressure or rubbing, which permanently changes the fibre structure and hurts performance. The right way: rinse the felt under running warm water and work the polish residue out by gently squeezing and flushing — never knead or wring it hard. After rinsing, let the pad dry flat on a clean cloth. If glass polish has dried in, a short soak in warm water before you flush the residue out does the trick. Well looked-after FilzPads keep their fibre structure over several jobs and deliver consistent results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 125 mm size matches standard backing plates for dual-action and rotary machines. The pad's hook-and-loop backing keeps it locked onto the backing plate and lets you swap pads fast, no tools. That matters especially on glass work, where you often switch between polishing stages — from a coarser sanding paste to a finer glass polish and finally to the clear-coat sealing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the FilzPad 125 properly — work on glass, paint and metal\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor glass correction the FilzPad 125 is the first step on clouded windscreens, side windows with water-spot etching or rear windows with baked-in mineral deposits. Prep is more critical here than on paint: glass surfaces have to be cleaned thoroughly and clear of loose grit before you polish, because any foreign body between pad and glass causes instant scratches. A pre-treatment with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e strips residue and preps the surface perfectly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRun a lower speed on glass than you would on paint. Too high a speed builds heat, which lets the glass polish flash off too fast and cuts the working effect of the abrasive grains. For dual-action machines, speed 3–4 is a good starting point; for rotary machines, a moderate speed between 800 and 1200 rpm. Important: on glass, always work with plenty of polish — a dry FilzPad creates scratches that are far harder to remove on glass than on paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn paint the FilzPad 125 is reserved for heavy correction: deep oxidation layers, sanding marks after coarse wet sanding and extreme weathering. Always run it as the first stage in a multi-step correction, followed by a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-medium-polierpad\"\u003eSchaumPad medium\u003c\/a\u003e for the intermediate stage and a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-weich-polierpad\"\u003eSchaumPad weich\u003c\/a\u003e for the hologram-free finish. Trying to clear the FilzPad's marks with just one follow-up stage risks an incomplete result on dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn metal polishes — say for alloy wheels, chrome trim or stainless add-on parts — the FilzPad 125 works too. The high cut lets you strip oxidation layers off metal, corrosion spots and dulled areas efficiently. For this job, SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish is the one to reach for, built specifically for metal polishing that needs heavy cut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlass correction with the FilzPad 125 — use cases and limits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FilzPad 125 is the right tool when conventional cleaning methods hit their limit. Clouded windscreens with washer-fluid deposits, mineral-salt spots and UV greying are the classic case: an ordinary glass cleaner won't shift these deposits, because they've chemically worked their way into the glass surface. The FilzPad's mechanical abrasion with a suitable glass polish breaks these bonds physically — without damaging the screen, as long as the process is done right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWindscreens with heavy wiper marks are another common job. After long use, wiper blades leave spiral scoring in the glass that shows up annoyingly in backlight. With the FilzPad 125 and a fine-grain glass polish you can clearly reduce or fully remove these surface flaws in many cases. The result: better vision on night drives and in low-angle sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FilzPad's limits are on coated glass surfaces. Hydrophobic coatings on windscreens — the kind various makers apply — get damaged or fully stripped by the FilzPad's abrasion. If you want to keep a coating like that, leave the FilzPad alone and pick alternative cleaning methods. The same goes for tinted windows with film: the film sits on the inside of the glass and must not be machine-worked.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicles with plastic windows — older convertibles with polycarbonate rear screens, say, or certain van windscreens — the FilzPad 125 works too, but it needs particularly careful pressure control. Plastic glazing is softer than mineral glass and reacts more sensitively to overheating from mechanical pressure. Here you run lower speeds and ease off the pressure more often than on real glass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you work side windows, take extra care at the edges. The sealing lip on the door frame can be damaged by the spinning FilzPad — either through direct contact or through polish that creeps into the seal and softens the material. Pros mask the seal areas before glass work with painter's tape and polish only up to the masking. That prevents damage and keeps the working area defined.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe FilzPad 125 compared — when felt, when foam, when a LammwollPad\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePicking the right pad always comes down to the substrate and the correction goal. The FilzPad 125 is the call when you need high cut and the surface won't be damaged by heat or pressure — so on glass and metal, or on paint only for extreme corrections. For standard paint work the foam-pad system from the SONAX PROFILINE range is the better base: the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSchaumPad hart\u003c\/a\u003e for heavy-cut work, the SchaumPad medium for medium corrections, the SchaumPad weich for the hologram-free finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-lammwollpad-wollpad\"\u003eLammwollPad\u003c\/a\u003e offers similar cut to the FilzPad on paint, but behaves fundamentally differently: lambswool fibres have a natural spring that pulls heat away better and spreads the cut more evenly across larger panels. For heavy-cut on paint the LammwollPad is therefore often the better call than the FilzPad. The FilzPad, on the other hand, beats the LammwollPad on glass, because its structural stiffness optimises pressure spread on the hard glass surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor glass work there's no direct alternative to the FilzPad in the SONAX PROFILINE range — it's the specialist pad for the job. If you do glass correction regularly, always keep a stock of FilzPads, since the abrasive process wears them down faster than foam pads on paint work. The twin pack is a practical starting point for the first buy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the FilzPad 125 — which shops and use cases it pays off for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe FilzPad 125 pays off for any shop that offers glass correction as a service. Clouded windscreens, side windows with water-spot etching and baked-in mineral deposits are common customer requests that can't be sorted cleanly without the right polishing tool. With the FilzPad 125 and a quality glass polish you can offer this service professionally and reliably — and get results that clearly stand apart from plain glass cleaning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers expanding their range with paint sealing after intensive paint correction, the FilzPad 125 is the first step on vehicles with heavily weathered paint. Combined with the cutting polishes from the SONAX PROFILINE range — the CutMax \"6\/4\" for extreme corrections, say — the FilzPad allows an aggressive first cut before the further correction stages on foam work out the final result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor workshops that recondition vehicles after hail damage or accident repair, the FilzPad 125 is a relevant tool too: glass and paint work after mechanical damage often needs a mix of heavy cutting and follow-up fine correction. The twin pack of two FilzPads keeps the work flowing here, with no breaks for pad swaps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more note on shop efficiency: if you run the FilzPad 125 regularly, keep an eye on wear. Felt wears faster from the heavy abrasion of glass work than foam does on paint polishing — the fibres flatten and the pressure transfer goes uneven. A simple test: lay the pad on a flat surface and run a finger over it. If the felt surface has gone uneven or noticeably thinner, it's time for a new pad. Renewing regularly isn't a cost question but a quality one — a worn FilzPad gives worse results and longer working times.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTo round out a complete glass-correction kit, pair the FilzPad with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eGlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e for the pre-clean and a glass sealant for final protection. The full package of cleaning, polishing with the FilzPad and sealing afterwards is the professional answer to everything around glass correction — and it pays off both for reconditioning shops with high glass throughput and for detailers who selectively treat vehicles with badly loaded screens. The SONAX PROFILINE system makes sure all products work together: do the pre-clean with PROFILINE products, work the glass polish with the FilzPad and pick the sealant from the PROFILINE range, and you get a consistent result with no compatibility issues between the individual steps.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"2 pieces","offer_id":57345156022607,"sku":"D1-SNX-4933000","price":14.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-filzpad-125_2-stueck.png?v=1774736583"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-hybridwollpad-wollpad","title":"PROFILINE HybridWollPad wool pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eAggressive cut, soft surface — SONAX PROFILINE HybridWollPad\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is a HybridWollPad and what do you use it for? The hybrid wool pad pairs a virgin-wool face with a foam core — the wool side delivers maximum cut for stubborn paint defects, while the foam core keeps the pressure spread evenly and the heat down.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWool pads have been known in professional correction for decades as the most aggressive cutting tool out there: the wool fibres, with their rough surface and high flex, deliver the strongest mechanical cut you can get from a polishing pad — well beyond any foam pad. But classic pure wool pads have a weak spot: without a foam core they transfer machine pressure unevenly and, used carelessly, build up local hot spots. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HybridWollPad\u003c\/strong\u003e brings the best of both worlds together: a virgin-wool face for maximum cut and a foam core for even pressure spread and better heat dissipation. Available in Ø80 mm, Ø125 mm and Ø165 mm for every machine and job format.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut from the virgin-wool face for the heaviest paint defects.\u003c\/strong\u003e The virgin-wool fibres of the HybridWollPad create very high mechanical abrasion thanks to their natural structure: on badly weathered paint, deep oxidation and class B machine-marring holograms come off efficiently. The wool structure pulls off a depth of correction you simply can't reach with classic foam pads — for heavy paint defects, the wool pad is your first pick.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFoam core for even pressure spread and controlled work.\u003c\/strong\u003e The pad's hybrid build protects the paint from local overheating: the foam core under the wool face spreads the machine's pressure evenly across the whole working face. That avoids the \"hot spots\" classic wool pads are known for — local overheating points that can damage the clear coat. The result is a cut you can actually control, manageable even for seasoned detailers with less wool-pad mileage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree sizes for every machine format and job.\u003c\/strong\u003e The HybridWollPad comes in Ø80 mm for mini orbitals and detail work, Ø125 mm for standard orbitals and compact rotaries, and Ø165 mm for large-area polishing on bonnets, roofs and sides. Pick the size by the job: small pads for tight spots and edges, big pads for fast coverage on large panels.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The HybridWollPad gives its best cut at medium machine speed (1,200–1,600 rpm on the rotary) with moderate pressure. More pressure doesn't mean more cut — the wool pad cuts through the fibres, not through the pressure. Blow the pad out with a stiff brush at idle after every panel to clear polishing residue from the wool tufts. Wool pads don't reuse as often as foam pads — plan on 1–2 pads per vehicle when you prep your kit. After the job, wash it out thoroughly in lukewarm water with a mild cleaner and let it dry flat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHybridWollPad technology — virgin wool, foam core and cutting behaviour\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eHybridWollPad\u003c\/strong\u003e uses virgin wool — shorn animal wool — as its polishing material. Virgin wool has a naturally scaled fibre structure (the so-called scale build-up of the wool hair) that makes microscopic cutting movements as you polish. These fibre scales bite into the top layer of clear coat and abrade it away through mechanical action — much like sandpaper, but with far finer grit and more flex. The flex of the wool tufts keeps the fibres from leaving rigid scratches in the paint — the tufts spring back on contact and produce a more even cut than rigid abrasives.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe foam core of the hybrid build does several jobs: it spreads the polisher's pressure across the whole pad, prevents pressure peaks over high spots on the paint, and cushions the wool face against the surface. That cushioning makes the HybridWollPad far safer to use than pure wool pads without a foam core — especially on curved surfaces like fenders and bumpers, where a stiff pad easily catches an edge.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common question is how to clean wool pads after use: wool pads soak up more polishing residue than foam pads and need a more thorough clean afterwards. The best result comes from soaking in lukewarm water with a mild wool detergent for 15–20 minutes, then gently squeezing (don't wring!) and drying flat. Washing it out too aggressively or spinning it in the machine damages the wool structure and cuts down the cut on the next job. Wool pads cared for properly last several vehicles; mishandled ones lose their fibre properties after just 2–3 jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridWollPad's cut beats the hardest foam pad: where a hard foam pad with a heavy-cut polish needs several passes, the HybridWollPad is often done in one. That makes the wool pad especially worthwhile on badly weathered vehicles where time is the most precious factor. For normal details with light to medium holograms, though, the wool pad is overkill — here the cut of the foam pads is plenty and easier to control.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the HybridWollPad — polish pairing, machine and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridWollPad is built for heavy-cut polishes. The recommended pairing in the PROFILINE system is the HybridWollPad with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" cutting compound\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003ePROFILINE UltimateCut \"6+\/3\"\u003c\/a\u003e — the strongest compounds in the range. These combos are made for vehicles with heavy P800-P1000 sanding marks, deep oxidation or strong holograms from machine pre-treatment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMachine choice: the HybridWollPad works on both rotaries and dual-action orbitals. On the rotary it gives the highest cut; on the orbital the cut drops a little, but the result is more even and the risk of heat damage lower. If you're new to professional correction, start with the HybridWollPad on the orbital before you move over to the rotary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolish dosing on the wool pad: unlike foam pads, you put less polish on a wool pad. The wool structure pulls polish out of the paint and collects it in the fibres — too much polish overloads the pad, which cuts down the cut and makes residue harder to wipe off. A small cross of polish (instead of the 5-dot pattern you'd use on foam pads) is usually enough on wool pads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the HybridWollPad earns its keep — heavy paint defects, oxidation and first cut\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridWollPad is the tool for the heaviest correction jobs: badly weathered paint from years of neglect, oxidised surfaces on used vehicles, vehicles with sanding marks from coarse machine passes or strong holograms from automatic car washes. In every one of these cases, the wool pad removes the most material in the least time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor GRP work (glass-reinforced plastic on boats, caravans or motorbikes) the HybridWollPad fits too. GRP gelcoat weathers much like car paint — it oxidises and goes dull. With the wool pad and a suitable heavy-cut polish you can work oxidised gelcoat back efficiently and bring it to a high gloss. One thing to watch: GRP is thicker than car paint (1–5 mm instead of 80–150 µm) and tolerates more mechanical removal — but too much heat can damage GRP too. Moderate pressure and regular breaks are a must when you work GRP with the wool pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother special case for the wool pad is the first cut on multi-layer paint builds: vehicles with very thick original clear coats (over 80 µm) can barely shift enough material with normal cutting polishes on foam pads to reach deep-seated defects. The HybridWollPad with a heavy cutting polish gets the removal volume you need for that first cutting pass, which then runs on through several finer steps up to a high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HybridWollPad compared — wool pad vs. foam pad by cut needed\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the PROFILINE polishing pad range, the HybridWollPad is the pick for maximum cut, while the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SchaumPad hart\u003c\/a\u003e handles lighter to medium heavy-cut jobs. Choosing between the wool pad and the SchaumPad hart follows the severity of the defects: deep scratches, heavy oxidation and severe machine marring call for the wool pad; light holograms, normal wear and fresh paint on new vehicles are handled more efficiently with the SchaumPad hart, since the wool pad would take off more than you need here.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the HybridWollPad pass you need a follow-up step with a medium foam pad and a finishing polish, or a soft foam pad with a high-gloss polish, to clear the fine wool-pad sanding marks out of the clear coat and finalise the gloss. The HybridWollPad is always the first step in a multi-stage process — never the last. Hand a car over straight off the wool pad and you leave the customer with paint that shows micro-scratches under raking light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE HybridWollPad — size choice and job guide\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailing businesses, a spread of sizes makes sense: Ø165 mm for large-area work on bonnets, roof and sides; Ø125 mm as the standard size for fenders, doors and details; Ø80 mm for tight spots like bumper edges and sills. The HybridWollPad is designed as part of the PROFILINE polishing system — it works best alongside the PROFILINE polishes and, in that pairing, delivers consistent, repeatable results on every correction pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses that run the HybridWollPad regularly, a dedicated pad-cleaning station pays off: a flat tray of warm water and wool detergent, where the used pad goes after every swap. At the end of the working day all the wool pads get cleaned at once and laid out to dry. This routine stops polish gel from drying into the wool tufts and clumping the fibres. Dried-in polishing residue in a wool pad is almost impossible to shift — the pad loses cut for good.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBecause wool pads wear out faster than foam pads after heavy use, regular detailing businesses are best stocking 3–5 pads per size. The high cut of the HybridWollPad earns its place on tough vehicles — on normal new and used cars without heavy paint defects, foam pads are the more economical pick.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø80 mm","offer_id":57345168933199,"sku":"D1-SNX-4940410","price":44.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø125 mm","offer_id":57345168965967,"sku":"D1-SNX-4938000","price":31.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø165 mm","offer_id":57345168998735,"sku":"D1-SNX-4941000","price":42.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-hybridwollpad_125-mm.png?v=1774736592"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-lammwollpad-wollpad","title":"PROFILINE Lambswool Pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMaximum cutting performance from natural wool — SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad do? The wool pad, made from genuine lambswool fibers, delivers maximum abrasive performance in combination with heavy-cut polishes for used car reconditioning — in Ø80 mm for eccentric and rotary machines, and in Ø125 mm for rotary use.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the polishing workflow, there are situations where foam or hybrid pads simply aren't enough: deeply ingrained scratches after sanding preparation with P800 to P1000, stubborn oxidation layers on weathered paints, holograms from previous machine polishes, or severe wash scratches on dark paint colors. For these cases, there is the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e — a wool pad made from genuine lambswool fibers that achieves cutting performance through its open, three-dimensional fiber structure that synthetic foam pads cannot replicate. The fiber structure of the lambswool interacts with the polish, creating mechanical abrasion on the paint surface while simultaneously retaining heat in the pad, allowing the abrasive particles of the polish to activate optimally. If you are regularly confronted with heavy-cut situations in your business, you cannot avoid the LambswoolPad — it is the strongest tool in the SONAX PROFILINE pad range for the initial correction phase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHighest cutting performance due to natural lambswool fibers for the first correction phase.\u003c\/strong\u003e Natural lambswool, with its wavy, three-dimensional fiber structure, creates mechanical abrasive performance that synthetic pads can hardly achieve. Deeply ingrained scratches after wet sanding with P800–P1200, heavy oxidation layers on weathered paints, and stubborn holograms from machine polishing are efficiently leveled in one step with the SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad. This saves time in the first correction phase and reduces the number of polishing steps required.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo sizes for different machine types — Ø80 mm and Ø125 mm.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad is available in Ø80 mm for use on smaller eccentric and rotary machines, and in Ø125 mm for standard rotary machines. The Ø80 mm pad is particularly suitable for details, edges, and hard-to-reach areas, while the Ø125 mm pad is for efficient processing of hoods, roofs, and large body surfaces. The hook-and-loop connection is designed for SONAX PROFILINE backing plates.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDurable wool with a robust foam core for professional continuous use.\u003c\/strong\u003e The LambswoolPad combines genuine lambswool fibers with a stable foam core that maintains the pad's shape even under the pressure of a rotary machine. Unlike pure wool pads without a core, the pad remains dimensionally stable even after many washes and does not shed fibers on the paint. For professional businesses with high pad throughput, the combination of washability and durability is a clear cost advantage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Before first use, briefly break in the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e: Attach the pad to the machine, apply a thimbleful of polish to the pad, and distribute it over a 40x40 cm area with low speed (approx. 900–1,200 rpm for rotary) without pressure — this allows the wool fibers to soak up the polish, and the first working area will not be polished too dry. For heavily oxidized paint, we recommend applying the polish in small portions directly to the paint, not just on the pad — this extends the working time of the abrasives. After polishing, rinse the pad with a pad cleaning brush (pad washer or brush with water), do not let it dry, and then reuse it — wool works better when slightly damp. For combination with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e or \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish\u003c\/a\u003e on a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-klett-stutzteller-125-stutzteller\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Hook-and-Loop Backing Plate 125\u003c\/a\u003e, the system is optimally coordinated.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting performance and material structure of the LambswoolPad — how lambswool creates mechanical abrasion\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe superior abrasive performance of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e compared to foam pads is explained by the physical properties of natural lambswool fibers: Each individual wool fiber is naturally spirally crimped — this crimp creates an open, three-dimensional pore structure within the mass of fibers. This structure fulfills several functions in the polishing process. First, the fiber structure deeply absorbs the polish and releases it in a controlled manner to the paint surface, ensuring even abrasive distribution. Second, the fibers microscopically engage with the abrasive particles of the polish, thereby increasing the effective contact area between the abrasive and the paint. Third, fiber friction generates heat, which activates the abrasive particles in break-down polishes — especially with SONAX PROFILINE high-cut polishes, this thermal activation is crucial for full abrasive performance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe support foam under the wool fibers is designed for medium hardness, which makes the pad usable on both rotary and eccentric machines. In rotary use (typical: 800–1,400 rpm), the medium-hard support provides the necessary counter-pressure so that the wool fibers lie on the paint with sufficient force. In eccentric use, the support prevents the pad from deforming too much under the eccentric motion and polishing unevenly. The hook-and-loop backing on the reverse side is standardized and fits all common 80mm and 125mm backing plates with Velcro attachment — including the SONAX PROFILINE Hook-and-Loop Backing Plate 125 and compatible backing plates from other manufacturers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to synthetic cutting foam pads (orange or red), the LambswoolPad has a different working style: Foam cutting pads apply a more even, lenticular pressure to the paint — making them controllable and well suited for moderate corrections. Lambswool, on the other hand, works with the fiber tips and creates micro-punctual pressure, which is more efficient for maximum abrasion requirements. The difference is visible in a direct comparison after the first polishing round: On heavily oxidized paint or after P1000 sanding, the LambswoolPad shows significantly fewer remaining sanding marks after one round than a cutting foam pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplication and Workflow — correctly using the SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe optimal workflow with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e begins with the right polish selection: The pad is designed for high-cut polishes with a high degree of abrasion — SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut 6+\/3, SONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish 5\/5, or SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 are typical partners. With finishing polishes (NP 03-06, PerfectFinish), the combination makes little sense — here, softer foam pads or finish pads are the better choice. The LambswoolPad is a tool for the correction phase, not for the finish phase.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe working sequence with the LambswoolPad on a rotary machine: Mark off a working area of approximately 40x50 cm, apply 3–4 rice-grain-sized portions of polish to the paint, place the pad, and briefly work in the polish at low speed (approx. 800 rpm) until no dry spots are visible. Then increase the speed to the working range (typically 1,000–1,400 rpm depending on polish and paint) and make 3–5 even passes with light pressure. Afterward, reduce the speed, polish out any remaining polish, lift the pad, and check the result. If sanding marks are still visible, do a second round on the same area — with a fresh portion of polish. After polishing, wipe with a microfiber cloth and only then move to the next area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn eccentric machines (typically 12–15 mm eccentric), the LambswoolPad works with slightly lower abrasion than on a rotary, but is gentler on thin paints. The typical speed setting is 4,000–5,500 rpm, and the pressure is moderate. The advantage of eccentric use: The machine is more forgiving of beginner's mistakes when holding edges than a rotary, and the risk of burning through is significantly lower. For workshops that rarely work with rotary but still need higher abrasive performance than with foam pads, the LambswoolPad on an eccentric is a good compromise solution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBetween polishing areas and before storing, regularly rinse the pad with a pad washer or a brush under running water. Polish residues in the wool fibers that dry out will gum up the fiber structure and noticeably reduce abrasive performance. Freshly cleaned and stored slightly damp, the pad remains immediately ready for the next session.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAreas of application — when the SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad is the first choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e is not the first choice for every vehicle or every paint — it is the specialized tool for situations where medium pads are not sufficient. In daily detailing, these are mainly three scenarios: First, used car reconditioning with heavily neglected paints that have accumulated UV oxidation, wash scratches, and dirt deposits over years. These paints are typically matte or hazy, reflecting diffusely rather than specularly, and barely react to normal foam polishing combinations. The LambswoolPad quickly breaks up the surface and shows after the first polishing pass what paint depth is still present underneath.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe second main scenario is paint correction after wet sanding. If scratches or paint defects have been manually or machine wet sanded (typically P800–P1200), the sanding leaves coarse sanding marks that must be completely removed before fine polishing can begin. In this phase, the LambswoolPad on a rotary is the fastest tool: It works out the sanding marks in one or two passes and prepares the surface for finish polishing. Foam cutting pads would require significantly more passes for the same task.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe third scenario is holograms and swirl marks from previous machine polishes, where poor technique or incorrect pad combinations have left fine swirls in the paint. These holograms are particularly visible on dark, solid-color paints (black, dark gray, dark blue) and require genuine material removal, not just surface filling like a finish pad. The LambswoolPad with a Cut+Finish polish efficiently removes these holograms and leaves a clear base for the final sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHowever, caution is advised on sensitive paints (very thin factory layers, freshly painted surfaces, clear coat under 60 micrometers): The LambswoolPad with high-cut polish removes more paint per round than a foam pad. Before use, a paint thickness measurement should always be performed, and on thin paints, less pressure and lower speed should be used, or switch to the SONAX PROFILINE HybridWoolPad, which acts somewhat gentler.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eLambswoolPad vs. HybridWoolPad — the right wool pad for every detailing case\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE wool pad range offers two different approaches with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-hybridwollpad-wollpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HybridWoolPad\u003c\/a\u003e, which differ specifically in their construction and application profile. The LambswoolPad consists exclusively of natural lambswool fibers and thus offers the maximum cutting performance in the SONAX PROFILINE pad range — it is designed for heavy-cut applications where the highest available material removal is required.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridWoolPad combines natural wool fibers with synthetic fibers to create a mixed material that mediates between the aggressive cutting performance of the pure wool pad and the controllability of a foam pad. For users who appreciate the advantages of a wool fiber structure (open texture, good polish absorption, heat generation) but do not need the full abrasive potential of the LambswoolPad, the HybridWoolPad is the right choice. It is suitable for moderate paint defects, light to moderate oxidation, and vehicles with normal care conditions — where a pure lambswool pad would be too aggressive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-weich-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FoamPad soft\u003c\/a\u003e, on the other hand, the positioning is clear: It is designed for the finishing phase after correction work — if you want to perform a final finishing pass with a fine polish after using the LambswoolPad, reach for the soft foam pad. The three-pad system of LambswoolPad (Heavy Cut) → FoamPad medium (intermediate polish, if necessary) → FoamPad soft (Finish) completely covers all correction phases from rough preliminary work to high-gloss final polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn practice, the following rule of thumb applies to pad selection: If the paint is heavily oxidized, shows coarse sanding marks after wet sanding, or has deep scratches (visible to the naked eye in glancing light) → LambswoolPad. If the paint has moderate wash scratches and swirls without deeper damage → HybridWoolPad. If the paint is in good basic condition and only needs refreshing and sealant preparation → FoamPad medium or soft. With this selection, the detailing workflow is clearly structured for every vehicle condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad — Sizes, Compatibility, and Recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LambswoolPad\u003c\/strong\u003e is available in two sizes: Ø80 mm and Ø125 mm. For professional businesses, it is recommended to keep both sizes in stock: The Ø125 mm pad is the working size for surface work on hoods, roofs, doors, and fenders — here, the size demonstrates its time efficiency and covers more surface per pass. The Ø80 mm pad is the detail size for depressions, edges, A-pillars, mirror housings, and all areas where a 125 mm pad is too large to work controllably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe hook-and-loop backing fits all SONAX PROFILINE backing plates with standard Velcro connection. For the Ø125 mm pad, the SONAX PROFILINE Hook-and-Loop Backing Plate 125 (M14 thread) is the direct system solution — it is designed for rotary machines with an M14 spindle and ensures a vibration-resistant connection that sits securely even at high speeds. For the Ø80 mm pad, an 80 mm compatible backing plate is required accordingly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMachine compatibility: The LambswoolPad in both sizes is suitable for rotary polishing machines and for eccentric machines. On a rotary machine (Rupes LHR, Flex PE, Makita PW5001C, or similar), it delivers its full cutting performance. On eccentric machines (Rupes BigFoot, Flex XFE, Bosch PEX), it also works, with slightly lower abrasive performance than on a rotary. Orbital machines (Flex XCE, Flex OE) are less suitable for wool pads in heavy-cut use, as the orbital motion interacts less efficiently with the fiber structure than the rotary motion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses that frequently perform heavy-cut polishing, we recommend having several LambswoolPads per size in stock: As soon as a pad is saturated (recognizable by the fact that it barely glides on the paint when applied, but \"drags\"), it should be replaced with a fresh one. A saturated pad no longer polishes optimally — it smears rather than grinds. With two to three pads per size in use, the pace can be maintained on long detailing days without having to wait for slow pad cleaning: Attach and polish with one pad, rinse and dry the other — alternating.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø80 mm","offer_id":57345169129807,"sku":"D1-SNX-4941410","price":27.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø125 mm","offer_id":57345169162575,"sku":"D1-SNX-4931410","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-lammwollpad_125-mm.png?v=1774736616"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart-polierpad","title":"PROFILINE Foam Pad hard polishing pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMaximum cut on weathered paint — SONAX PROFILINE Foam Pad hard\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is a hard polishing pad used for in a pro setting? A hard polishing pad like the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Foam Pad hard\u003c\/strong\u003e maxes out the cut of whatever polish you run on it — it takes off more clear coat than softer pads, which makes it the right tool for deeply weathered clear coat, heavy holograms and oxidised surfaces.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn paint correction the pairing of polish and pad drives the result more than anything else: the same cutting polish gives you far less bite on a soft pad than on a hard one. If you want to pull heavy defects — deeply baked-in holograms, oxidation, deep scratches down into the clear coat — out of the paint efficiently, you need the right pad setup. That's exactly what the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Foam Pad hard\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for: a high-density, open-cell foam polishing pad that lets cutting polishes like PROFILINE CutMax work at full strength. Available in Ø75 mm and Ø150 mm for all common polishers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cutting power thanks to high foam density and open-cell structure.\u003c\/strong\u003e The high foam density of the Foam Pad hard means the pad gives very little under load, so the polish stays pressed onto the paint with constant pressure. At the same time the open-cell structure lets the polish spread and release evenly across the whole working face. The result is a controllable, even cut — no local hot spots, no uneven removal.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLong service life thanks to centre cooling and good airflow.\u003c\/strong\u003e Hard cutting builds heat — a problem for cheap pads that warp or fall apart when things get hot. The Foam Pad hard has a dedicated centre-cooling core and an open airflow structure that stops heat from building up. That stretches the pad's service life a lot and lets you polish across several cars without wrecking the pad or burning sanding marks into the paint through overheating.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFast swaps and precise handling thanks to hook-and-loop backing and a bevelled edge.\u003c\/strong\u003e In day-to-day work every minute counts: the hook-and-loop backing on the Foam Pad hard lets you swap pads in seconds, no tools and no break in the flow. The bevelled foam edge improves handling on edges, corners and tight spots — a detail that, when you're working fenders, door edges and spoilers, makes the difference between a clean result and an unpolished strip along the edge.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e With the Foam Pad hard, work panel by panel: only ever do one panel (bonnet, roof, a side) per pass, never the whole body at once. The pad releases the polish more evenly when it doesn't sit too long between wetting and wipe-off. After 2–3 panels, clean the pad with a soft pad brush or a quick blast of compressed air — that keeps caked-on polish residue off, which can drag micro-scratches back in as you keep going. When you're done: soak it for 30 minutes in warm water with PROFILINE Microfibre Wash, wring it out and lay it flat to air-dry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFoam Pad hard technology — foam density, open cells and cutting behaviour\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cutting power of a pad system comes from three factors working together: the hardness of the pad, the open-cell nature of the foam and the abrasive strength of the polish you run. The \u003cstrong\u003eFoam Pad hard\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for maximum pad intensity — it's the hardest foam pad in the PROFILINE range, which makes it the right pad for heavy-cut polishes like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" cutting polish\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut \"6+\/3\"\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe open-cell foam of the Foam Pad hard does two jobs: first, the open structure holds larger amounts of polish and releases it evenly and continuously across the working face — no flooding the paint, no dry patches. Second, open cells shed heat better than closed foams: heat generated while you polish is carried out through the pores instead of stored in the pad. Together with the dedicated cooling zone in the centre of the pad, you get a system that stays controllable even on longer polishing sessions and doesn't put the paint at risk through local overheating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that matters day-to-day: a hard pad ups the cut, but there are limits too. On freshly polished, thin clear coat, or on cars with a single-stage base coat and no clear, run the Foam Pad hard only with dialled-back machine settings. The pad itself gives you no feedback on how much clear coat is left — measuring paint thickness before you polish is a must, not an option, when you're cutting hard.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Foam Pad hard — polish combo, machine and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Foam Pad hard suits all common polishers: rotary polishers (rotaries), dual-action polishers and DA machines. The best machine choice depends on the job: for maximum cut on heavily weathered paint, go with a rotary and the Foam Pad hard, since rotaries remove more at the same rpm than dual-action machines. For steadier, safer work on the everyday holograms you see on new cars, a dual-action machine with the Foam Pad hard is a good compromise between cutting power and control.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow you spread the polish on the pad is decisive for the result. The go-to is the \"five-point pattern\": four small dabs of polish at the corners of the working face and one in the middle. Then, with the machine off, spread it briefly across the paint before you start it up — that stops the polish flinging off when you switch on. Machine speed for the Foam Pad hard should sit between 1,200 and 1,800 rpm depending on polish and paint hardness; very hard paints (Japanese cars) need higher speeds, softer paints (French and British makes) respond better to lower ones.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter polishing: clean the polish residue off the pad straight away with a soft pad brush. Caked polish in the pad gives you an uneven cut next time and can leave grooves in the paint. If you work several pads at once, you can swap between panels and clean the resting pad in peace — your pace goes up, pad quality stays constant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the Foam Pad hard fits — weathered paint, oxidation and GRP surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Foam Pad hard covers three main areas: heavily weathered car paint, oxidised surfaces and GRP (glass-reinforced plastic). Heavily weathered paint — typical on cars left exposed for years with no protection — shows dull, rough surfaces with deep holograms and UV damage in the clear coat. Here you need serious cutting volume to take off the damaged clear-coat layer and expose the intact material underneath. The Foam Pad hard is built for exactly this kind of work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOxidised paint — especially common on older cars or on plastic parts like bumpers — has lost the molecular structure of its surface to UV exposure. That dull, sometimes chalky surface only comes back with an aggressive pad and a cutting polish. The Foam Pad hard paired with PROFILINE CutMax is the recommended system for this job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGRP surfaces — boat hulls, motorbikes, caravans, sports vehicles — bring their own demands: GRP forgives overheating less than car paint but reacts much the same to mechanical abrasion. The Foam Pad hard is approved for GRP and gives good results on these surfaces as long as you keep the machine settings conservative (medium speed, light pressure).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Foam Pad hard compared — pad hardness grades in the PROFILINE system\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the PROFILINE pad range the Foam Pad hard sits at the top for cutting power. By comparison: the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-medium-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Foam Pad medium\u003c\/a\u003e is less hard and pairs medium cut with more gloss potential — it suits one-step polishes or mid-level defects. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-weich-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Foam Pad soft\u003c\/a\u003e is the pure finishing pad: very little cut, maximum gloss — only for finish polishes like PROFILINE NP \"03-06\" with no defects to remove first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eChoosing between the hardness grades follows one simple rule: the heavier the defects, the harder the pad and the more aggressive the polish. If you run a three-stage process (step 1: remove deep scratches with hard + CutMax; step 2: remove holograms with medium + Cut+Finish; step 3: finalise with soft + NP), you get the best result. For simpler cases a two-stage process, or even a one-step pass with the medium pad, does the job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlongside the Foam Pads, the PROFILINE system also has the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Eccentric Pad hard\u003c\/a\u003e — a similarly hard pad, but specially matched to the motion of dual-action machines. If you work exclusively with dual-action machines, take a look at the Eccentric Pad hard; if you work with a rotary or several machine types, the Foam Pad hard keeps you flexible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE Foam Pad hard — sizes, system combo and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe PROFILINE Foam Pad hard comes in two sizes: Ø75 mm for smaller backing plates and precise work on small panels, corners and bumper details — and Ø150 mm for large-area work on the bonnet, roof and sides. For a complete polishing station, go for a set of several pads in both sizes: that way you can swap between panels without waiting on a clean pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ideal system combo for heavy defects: Foam Pad hard Ø150 mm + PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" on a rotary or dual-action polisher for the first cutting pass. Then Foam Pad medium + PROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\" for the mid-level polish, and finally Foam Pad soft + PROFILINE NP \"03-06\" for the high-gloss finish. This three-stage product chain is fully covered in the PROFILINE range — every component is matched to the next and gives you repeatable results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailing businesses it's worth keeping at least 4–6 Foam Pads hard per size on hand: that way you can always start with a fresh pad while used ones get freshened up during the overnight clean. The PROFILINE pad system pays off for shops with high vehicle throughput through its long service life and consistent cutting power, which keeps costly re-work from uneven results off your plate.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø75 mm","offer_id":57345169654095,"sku":"D1-SNX-4921410","price":28.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø5.9 inches","offer_id":57345169686863,"sku":"D1-SNX-4922410","price":11.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart_150-mm.png?v=1774736662"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-schaumpad-medium-polierpad","title":"PROFILINE SchaumPad medium Polishing Pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMedium cut with excellent control — SONAX PROFILINE SchaumPad medium\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does a medium foam pad do and when is it the right call? The medium SchaumPad from SONAX's PROFILINE line is the most versatile pad in the polishing system — it gives you enough cut for most swirls and holograms, leaves finer marks behind than a hard pad, and works on both rotary and dual-action polishers.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen picking a pad for paint correction, a lot of people get stuck deciding whether to grab the aggressive cutting pad or the gentle finishing pad. For the vast majority of correction jobs the answer sits somewhere in the middle — and that middle is exactly where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SchaumPad medium\u003c\/strong\u003e lives. A medium foam pad gives you enough cut to clear normal holograms, fine wash-tunnel scratches and light oxidation, without being so aggressive that the marks left behind force a fussy follow-up step. The SchaumPad medium is the pad that, in 70–80% of all vehicle corrections, does the whole job as the only cutting pad. Available in Ø75 mm for rotary polishers and Ø150 mm for standard dual-action machines.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium foam density for a wide window between cut and finish.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SchaumPad medium fills the gap between the aggressive SchaumPad hart and the gentle SchaumPad weich: hard enough to pull out holograms and water-spot etching, yet soft enough that the marks left in the clearcoat are fine enough for a single finishing pass with a soft pad to wipe them out completely. On easy panels with light contamination and a modern, easy-to-polish clearcoat, you often don't even need a finish step after the SchaumPad medium — straight to the sealant.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks on both rotary and dual-action polishers.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Ø75 mm pad is sized for the smaller backing plate on rotary polishers; the Ø150 mm pad for standard DA machines. That split lets you carry the same idea — medium foam structure for balanced cut\/finish — across both machine types. On the rotary the medium pad delivers a touch more cut thanks to the higher rotational energy; on the DA it's the safer bet for beginners, since the random orbit keeps overheating risks down.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAn economical all-rounder for shops with a mixed vehicle spread.\u003c\/strong\u003e Not every car needs a hard cutting pad, and not every car gets by on a pure finishing pad. Keeping a medium pad as your default cuts the complexity: for new cars with no serious defects the SchaumPad medium is the only pad you need; for cars with light to medium defects it's your primary cutting pad; only for badly hammered paint do you step up to the SchaumPad hart or the HybridWollPad. That tiered setup saves you pad-swapping time day to day.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The SchaumPad medium is brilliant for a one-step approach on modern cars: with a cut-and-finish polish (like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\" one-step polish\u003c\/a\u003e) on the SchaumPad medium you combine cut and finish in a single pass — that saves time over the two-stage process and gets very good results on modern soft clearcoats. This approach works especially well on cars from the last 10 years in good factory condition with normal wear. For badly damaged paint or cars with deep sanding marks, the multi-stage process with a SchaumPad hart for the first cutting pass stays the more reliable way to go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSchaumPad medium foam structure — medium cell matrix and polishing behaviour\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe foam density of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SchaumPad medium\u003c\/strong\u003e sits between the SchaumPad hart and the SchaumPad weich: a medium-open cell structure that offers enough resistance to drive the abrasives in a cutting polish onto the paint with effective cutting energy, while flexing enough to sit evenly over contoured areas like fender curves and door panels. That balance between stiffness and give is exactly what makes the medium pad the most versatile polishing pad in the whole PROFILINE range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cell matrix of the SchaumPad medium is built to release polish evenly out of the foam onto the polishing face — an effect foam-pad techs call the \"reservoir effect\": the foam soaks up polish on the first application and keeps feeding it outward as you work. That gives you more even polish spread across the whole panel than if the polish just sat on the pad surface. It shows most on larger panels like bonnets and roofs: the cut stays more constant across the full pass than with a fully closed-cell hard pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe rebound hardness — how quickly the foam springs back into shape after being compressed — is tuned on the SchaumPad medium for medium machine frequencies. That makes it compatible with both rotary polishers (steady rotation) and DA machines (random orbit), without working noticeably worse on either. This machine-agnostic behaviour is a real practical plus in shops running different machine types where you don't want to sort pads by machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth doing in practice: dampen a new SchaumPad medium before its first use and \"prime\" it once — the first few seconds on the first panel condition the foam, and after that the pad works at its full level. This short break-in lets the foam core take up polish evenly so the reservoir effect works from the start. An unconditioned new pad soaks up polish in the first passes without giving enough back to the paint — the result is an uneven first panel that doesn't give you a realistic read on the pad-polish combo.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that often gets underrated with medium pads: the effective cut of a SchaumPad medium leans heavily on the cutting strength of the polish you run. With a heavy-cut polish like the CutMax \"6\/4\", the SchaumPad medium delivers surprisingly a lot of cut — enough for plenty of medium-tough corrections without having to switch to the aggressive SchaumPad hart. With a lighter finishing polish the cut drops accordingly to finish level. So through your polish choice you have direct control over the effective cut\/finish ratio — a flexibility a hard or soft pad simply doesn't give you.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the SchaumPad medium — polish choice, machine technique and pad care\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most versatile combo for the SchaumPad medium in the PROFILINE system is the medium pad with a one-step polish like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\"\u003c\/a\u003e — that pairing covers the broad middle of correction jobs. For cars with heavier defects, run the SchaumPad medium with the CutMax \"6\/4\" as your first step, then a SchaumPad weich with a finishing polish for the final gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMachine choice and speed: on the rotary the SchaumPad medium works best at 900–1,200 rpm — enough rotational energy for effective cut without excess heat build-up. On the DA polisher the middle power setting (setting 3–4) is the right call to keep the medium foam in its sweet spot. Too low a speed and it starts to \"smear\" — the polish gets spread around but doesn't turn into effective cut. Too high a speed on the rotary generates more friction heat than normal clearcoat wants.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolish dosing on the SchaumPad medium: the 5-dot pattern (centre plus four edge dots) is the standard method for even spread. Key point: don't lay on too much polish — an oversaturated pad smears instead of cutting. Rule of thumb: start light and add if you need to, rather than starting with too much and having to wipe the panel down several times. A well-conditioned SchaumPad medium leaves an even residue film on the working area after polishing — no excess, no dry patch.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePad care after the job: clean the SchaumPad medium after every car with a pad spinner or a pad washer, not just at the end of the whole working day. Dried-in polish in the open cell structure changes the rebound properties and cuts the reservoir effect. A daily soak in lukewarm water with a mild cleaner, a gentle squeeze and flat drying keeps the pad's properties over many jobs. Cared for properly, medium-density foam pads last 80–120 cars before they need replacing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the SchaumPad medium fits — vehicle types, paint condition and polishing scenarios\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SchaumPad medium is the right pad for: cars from the last 5–10 years with normal wear (holograms from washing, dust scratches), lightly weathered paint on cars that have gone 3–5 years without a polish, new-car preps with light transport damage, and one-step corrections on cars where time efficiency matters (dealer intake prep, mobile work at the customer's place).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SchaumPad medium is less suited to: cars with deep sanding marks from coarse sandpaper (P800 or finer), heavily oxidised paint with a matte, chalky-white surface, and cars where you need to remove the clear cutting marks of a coarse machine sanding step. In those cases you first need the SchaumPad hart or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-hybridwollpad-wollpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HybridWollPad\u003c\/a\u003e for the first cutting pass — the medium pad then steps in as the second stage to clear the marks left by the heavy cut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne particularly worthwhile niche for the SchaumPad medium: headlight restoration. Yellowed or clouded polycarbonate headlight lenses can be cleared up with the SchaumPad medium and a suitable headlight polish in just a few passes. The medium pad works off the clouded polycarbonate effectively without being so aggressive it cuts deep scratches into the clearcoat-like lens material. For headlight work the small Ø75 mm pad (rotary format) or a separate mini pad is handy for getting into the flat headlight geometry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a professional setup the SchaumPad medium is worth stocking in numbers: at least 3–5 pads per size for a full working day with car changeovers. The \"one pad per car with daily cleaning\" strategy makes more sense for medium pads than for hard pads, since the medium pad fully keeps its properties with proper daily cleaning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSchaumPad medium in comparison — where it sits in the PROFILINE polishing pad system\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the PROFILINE polishing pad line-up the SchaumPad medium takes the central spot: the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SchaumPad hart\u003c\/a\u003e (and the HybridWollPad) stand for maximum cut where a lot of removal is needed; the SchaumPad medium for the broad middle of all correction scenarios; the SchaumPad weich for finishing polishes on already well-corrected paint with no real removal left to do.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe direct comparison with the SchaumPad hart makes the practical differences clear: at the same pressure and machine speed the hard pad removes roughly 30–40% more than the medium pad — a difference that shows up clearly when you polish under strip lighting. That extra cut is the deciding factor on badly damaged paint — on normal wear it just means more marks left in the paint that call for an extra finishing pass. In those cases the medium pad is the more efficient choice: one pass is often enough to both clear the defects and land a good finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBetween the SchaumPad medium and the SchaumPad weich the difference is mainly one of strategy: the soft pad is purely for the final finishing phase after a cutting pass, or for delicate paint that needs very little cut — without a prior cutting pass a soft pad won't fully clear holograms. The medium pad, on the other hand, can act as both a cutting and a finishing pad in most cases, depending on your polish choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE SchaumPad medium — sizes, job planning and pro portfolio\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor most correction shops the SchaumPad medium is the highest-turnover pad in the range — because it's the first choice for most cars and jobs. The Ø150 mm format for DA machines is the standard working size in modern detailing shops that mostly run dual-action polishers. The Ø75 mm format is for shops with rotary polishers and for special detail jobs like headlight restoration and tight areas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor stock planning: per working day with 3–5 cars you want at least 6–10 SchaumPad medium on hand, so there's always a fresh or cleaned pad ready. Rotating several pads at once — one polishing, another spinning clean in the pad spinner — keeps you flowing without waiting your way through the whole car list. For shops that run the medium pad daily, a stock of 10–15 pads per size is the smart move — that covers the demand for several weeks even with individual pads wearing out, no reorder needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SchaumPad medium in the PROFILINE system is always meant as part of a complete polishing pad portfolio: paired with the SchaumPad hart for heavy heavy-cut jobs and the SchaumPad weich for the final high-gloss finish, you get a complete, clearly tiered three-stage polishing system that has the right answer for every paint condition and job — from the badly damaged used car to the near-new vehicle with minimal wear. As a verified SONAX specialist dealer, Detailing1 keeps the SchaumPad medium in both sizes permanently in stock and makes sure it's there for reorders while you're working.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø75 mm","offer_id":57345169850703,"sku":"D1-SNX-4985000","price":28.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø150 mm","offer_id":57345169883471,"sku":"D1-SNX-4985410","price":11.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-medium_150-mm.png?v=1774736669"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-schaumpad-weich-polierpad","title":"PROFILINE SchaumPad soft polishing pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHologram-free finish polishing with the SONAX PROFILINE SchaumPad soft\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX PROFILINE SchaumPad soft stand out? The soft, fine-pored foam pad lets you machine-polish a finish without holograms — spot-on for delicate paint, first correction attempts and the final passes after more aggressive polishing stages.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the last stage of paint correction, the pad often matters more than the polish. If you leave holograms, swirls or machine marks behind after a heavy-cut pass, you've lost the whole point of the job — and you're starting over. That's exactly where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SchaumPad soft\u003c\/strong\u003e earns its keep: a fine-pored finish pad made of open-cell foam that spreads polish residue evenly, pulls heat away in a controlled way and does no new damage even on sensitive clearcoat. It pairs minimal cut with maximum smoothness — and turns a technically solid correction into a top-shelf finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFine-pored foam structure for a hologram-free finish.\u003c\/strong\u003e The open-cell soft foam of the SchaumPad soft produces less shear than hard or medium pads. Polish spreads evenly over a larger contact area, which largely keeps machine marks and holograms from forming in the first place. On dark paint especially — black, dark blue, anthracite — the difference is unmistakable in raking light.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOptimal heat dissipation for temperature-sensitive paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e Dual-action polishers build up local heat even at low pressure. The soft foam gives under contact pressure and stops heat from piling up on a small spot. That protects against temporary paint softening, which otherwise leads to uneven polishing marks. On thin-walled plastic parts or resprayed sections this trait really counts.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVersatile — from finish polishing to sealant prep.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SchaumPad soft works not only as the last correction step after a hard or medium cut, but also as a direct application pad for finish polishes with no prior correction. On new or only lightly used paint you can reach for it straight away — no detour through more aggressive pad grades.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Lightly dampen the SchaumPad soft with water before its first use and squeeze out the excess. A barely damp pad takes up polish more evenly and stops dry foam from drinking the polish straight away, before it can work on the paint. Always start the polisher on the paint — never in the air — to keep polish spatter off the bodywork.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSoft foam for paint finishing — how the fine-pored pad technology works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNot all polyurethane foam is the same. What hard and soft actually mean on a polishing pad comes down to pore size, cell structure and the Shore hardness of the foam. The \u003cstrong\u003eSchaumPad soft\u003c\/strong\u003e uses an open-cell foam structure with small, evenly spread pores — noticeably finer than the SchaumPad hard, which runs coarser cells and so generates more shear. That finer structure feeds straight into the result: polish isn't dumped in patches, it's laid down evenly across the whole working area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother plus is the cushioning. When you machine-polish, the pad acts as a buffer between the backing plate and the paint. Soft foam absorbs the orbits of the dual-action movement more — the pad doesn't sit rigid on the surface, it \"follows\" gentle contours, edges and curves better than a hard counterpart. On bumpers, door edges or mirrors that means even pressure without over-working the edges.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt connects to the backing plate through a hook-and-loop-compatible back that fits common SONAX PROFILINE backing plates and support plates. The 75 mm diameter suits smaller backing plates and is a great match for precision work on small areas like A-pillars, fuel-cap surrounds or door shuts. The 160 mm version is the standard reach for big body panels like the bonnet, roof and doors.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn often underrated angle is heat behaviour. Soft foam has more internal surface area and can spread heat through the pad volume better than compact materials. In fast passes with a high orbit frequency, friction heat builds at the contact patch between paint and pad. A soft pad releases that heat more evenly instead of concentrating it. That's why on sensitive solid colours, or when you're working in summer, soft foam is often the safer call over a medium pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the SchaumPad soft right — the workflow from first touch to a hologram-free finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe key step before the actual polishing is priming. Put a hazelnut-sized dab of finish polish on the SchaumPad soft sitting centred on the backing plate and spread it roughly by hand over an area about A4 size. Then start the polisher on speed 1 and work the polish over the panel with no pressure, before you raise speed and contact pressure. That first pass \"saturates\" the pad and makes sure it no longer soaks polish into its pores — from then on it releases it evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor finish polishes like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE EX \"04-06\" high-gloss polish\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP \"03-06\" high-gloss polish\u003c\/a\u003e, a speed range of 3–4 on the typical dual-action polisher works well. Higher speeds do bring more heat and a touch more cut, but they also raise the risk of holograms on darker-tinted paint. Rule of thumb: slow and several times beats fast and once.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SchaumPad soft also earns its place as the last step after a multi-stage correction. If you've worked earlier with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSchaumPad hard\u003c\/a\u003e or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-lammwollpad-wollpad\"\u003eLammwollPad\u003c\/a\u003e, the final pass with the soft pad and a pure finish polish clears every last sanding mark from the previous stage. That \"finishing run\" is standard in professional detailing outfits and is often the difference between a middling and a flawless result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter polishing, clean the pad straight away. Polish residue dries hard in the foam and permanently changes the pad structure. Wash it in warm water with a mild specialist pad cleaner and you'll keep the soft foam's pores intact for the long run. Best to clean it in hand-warm water with a light squeeze — no wringing, that damages the open-cell structure. Dry the pad flat on a clean towel, never in the sun or on a radiator.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHologram-free finish polishing — where the SchaumPad soft fits and where it doesn't\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SchaumPad soft's strong suit is clearly the finish stage. On paint in near-new condition with only light transport scratches or surface wash marks, you can run it straight with a finish polish, no prior cut stage. That saves time, is kinder to the paint and is plenty for most cars that get detailed at regular intervals and carry no deep paint damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SchaumPad soft is especially convincing on metallics and pearl-effect paint. These paint types, with their embedded metallic or mica flakes, are more prone to the stray-light effects that too-aggressive polishing can cause. The low shear of the soft pad keeps the effect flakes aligned, so the look after polishing matches the original state. Anyone who's ever lost a metallic to a grey haze after too aggressive a pass knows why this trait matters so much.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt the same time there are honest limits: deeper ingrained scratches, oxidation damage or wet-sanding marks from P1500 grit and coarser won't fully come out with the SchaumPad soft. Here you need a cut stage first — either with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-medium-polierpad\"\u003eSchaumPad medium\u003c\/a\u003e and a cutting polish, or with the SchaumPad hard or LammwollPad on heavy oxidation. The SchaumPad soft then takes over as the last stage and clears the micro-marks left by the earlier work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother use a lot of people underrate: prep for ceramic coatings. Before a coating goes on, the paint has to be absolutely mark-free — no hologram, no swirl. With the SchaumPad soft and an IPA-compatible finish polish you can hit a final surface where the ceramic layer bonds exactly and can deliver its full protection. This prep finishing pass is standard in pro coating outfits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn fresh respray work, take extra care. Fresh paint hasn't fully cured in the first few weeks and reacts more sensitively to heat and mechanical pressure. The SchaumPad soft is the safest choice here because it puts in the least energy — even so, on resprays under 30 days old skip machine polishing altogether.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe SchaumPad soft compared — when each pad is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE pad system is graded consistently by cut and works hand in hand with the matching polishes. The SchaumPad soft sits at the bottom of the cut curve — combined with the SchaumPad medium and the SchaumPad hard you get a full correction system that has a fitting combo for just about any paint condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-medium-polierpad\"\u003eSchaumPad medium\u003c\/a\u003e is the all-rounder for mid-level correction: it reliably clears wash marks, light swirls and old polishing marks, but on dark paint it still leaves the odd fine mark that the soft pad then cleans up. Medium followed by soft is the most efficient route for the bulk of professional details — two steps instead of three, and still a perfect result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SchaumPad hard is built for heavy-cut work — oxidation, deep wet-sanding, badly weathered paint. It runs higher pressure on a smaller effective contact patch and so puts down markedly more cut. On fresh or sensitive paint it's the wrong tool. Once you've worked with the SchaumPad hard, you usually step down through the SchaumPad medium as an in-between stage to the SchaumPad soft to reach a fully hologram-free result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-lammwollpad-wollpad\"\u003eLammwollPad\u003c\/a\u003e is its own category: lambswool fibres, by their natural structure, generate very high cut that differs from a hard foam pad's. They work more aggressively but also hotter — and typically leave more polishing marks that then have to be polished out with the SchaumPad soft. The LammwollPad is ideal for extreme correction and for pros who want to save time; the SchaumPad soft is its perfect finishing partner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-weich-125-polierpad\"\u003eExzenterPad soft 125\u003c\/a\u003e — another soft pad in the PROFILINE system — there's one relevant difference: the ExzenterPad soft is laid out for the 125 mm diameter and optimised for specific dual-action machine plates. The SchaumPad soft comes in 75 mm and 160 mm, covering both extremes of the pad spectrum: precision work on small areas and fast work on big body panels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SchaumPad soft — who it pays off for and in which workflows\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SchaumPad soft pays off for anyone who wants to machine-polish at a professional quality level — whether you work commercially or as a committed hobby detailer. Beginners gain from the fact that the soft pad minimises the risk of mistakes: if you work with too much pressure or too high a speed, you'll cause damage far less often with the SchaumPad soft than with a more aggressive pad. That also makes it the first pad for anyone just starting to learn machine polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eProfessional detailers value the SchaumPad soft as the last step in every multi-stage workflow. Whether after a heavy-cut pass with the SchaumPad hard, after a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003ePerfectFinish polish\u003c\/a\u003e on a mid setting, or as the final quality check before sealing — the soft pad is the one that defines the finished result. No other pad in the SONAX PROFILINE system produces such an evenly smooth, hologram-free surface in a single step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePick the size to match the polisher you own. The 75 mm version is ideal for spot correction and tight areas — it fits smaller backing plates and lets you work precisely where a 160 mm pad can't be guided under control. The 160 mm version is the panel worker: bonnet, roof, sides — this is where it plays its productivity card. A well-kitted setup has both sizes on hand and reaches for each depending on the task.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a direct add-on, the high-grade finish polishes from the SONAX PROFILINE range make sense. The EX \"04-06\" high-gloss polish is the classic pairing pick: little to no cut, maximum gloss and gloss obsession. For paint that still carries light fine marks after a hard-cut pass, the NP \"03-06\" high-gloss polish is the sharper choice — it brings a touch more cut and works the leftover marks from the earlier stage out more surely. Both polishes are built for the SchaumPad soft and deliver the best result as a team.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLook after your SchaumPad soft and it'll look after you for a long time. A carefully cleaned and air-dried pad keeps its pore structure over many uses — and with it its signature ability to release polish evenly and pull heat away in a controlled way. Pros clean their pads right after each car, store them flat in a closed container and keep used pads apart from new ones to avoid cross-contamination with polish residue. These simple habits double the effective lifespan and lock in consistent polishing results the whole way through.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø75 mm","offer_id":57345170178383,"sku":"D1-SNX-4926000","price":28.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"Ø160 mm","offer_id":57345170211151,"sku":"D1-SNX-4932410","price":11.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-weich_160-mm.png?v=1774736676"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-hart-polierpad","title":"PROFILINE ExzenterPad hart polishing pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHard cutting power on the DA polisher — SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad hart\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat's the difference between an ExzenterPad hart and a SchaumPad hart? The pro ExzenterPad in the hard build is a polishing foam pad tuned specifically for the oscillating motion of dual-action orbital polishers — for maximum cut with safe, controlled handling and no risk of overheating.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you polish on a dual-action orbital, the pad is what decides the result: a pad that's too soft loses cut on the fast orbital throw; a pad with the wrong return hardness springs the product contact away and leaves an uneven cut pattern. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad hart\u003c\/strong\u003e is built with a foam consistency matched to the kinematics of orbital polishers: at the typical throw frequency of DA machines (4–12 mm orbital throw) the cell structure of the foam works in a way that transfers maximum cutting energy onto the paint. Available in Ø125 mm and Ø150 mm — single, or in the pro set with 15 or 10 pieces for continuous use in detailing shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHard cell structure for maximum cut transfer on the DA orbital.\u003c\/strong\u003e The ExzenterPad hart uses a dense, closed-cell foam structure that doesn't spring away under the orbital motion but turns the contact pressure straight into cut. Where softer pads bleed off energy through compression, the hard ExzenterPad keeps the force in the contact zone — that gives you a repeatable, even cut across the whole pad face, even on curved radii and slightly domed panels.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOrbital-optimised geometry for safe work without overheating.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike rotary polishers, orbital machines don't build continuous friction heat on one rotational track — the random orbital throw spreads the heat over a larger area. The ExzenterPad hart leans on that DA trait: even on fresh or thin clear coat you can work aggressively with the hard pad, because the machine technology keeps the overheating risk in check. That makes the ExzenterPad hart the ideal entry pad for detailers moving from rotary to orbital work.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo sizes and pro sets for cost-effective shop use.\u003c\/strong\u003e Ø125 mm for standard DA orbitals, Ø150 mm for big orbitals with a wide plate. For shops that polish every day, the 15-pack (Ø125 mm) and the 10-pack (Ø150 mm) are the economical choice: running several pads means fewer stops for cleaning, and the price per pad in set format is clearly cheaper than buying singles.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Dampen the ExzenterPad hart briefly before the first use — dry foam soaks up the first drops of polish instead of laying them down on the paint. A splash of water or a damp cloth on the work surface is enough. On the first pass always start at the lowest speed (setting 1–2) to work the polish in, then bring it up to working speed. After 2–3 panels, clean the pad with a pad spinner or a pad washer — a saturated pad cuts a lot less. For the best results, pair the ExzenterPad hart with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" cutting compound\u003c\/a\u003e — in the PROFILINE system this combo is dialled in for heavy-cut jobs on DA orbitals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eExzenterPad hart foam structure — cell hardness, rebound and cut mechanics\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cut of a polishing pad on the orbital comes down to three factors: foam hardness (compression modulus), rebound speed (how fast the foam springs back after compression) and surface contact area (how large the effectively polishing area is). The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad hart\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for high-performance cut on the DA orbital across all three: foam hardness sits at the top end of the PROFILINE pad line-up, rebound speed is matched to the typical orbital throw frequencies (about 3,400–6,800 strokes\/min), and the pad geometry keeps maximum surface contact even on slightly domed surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne technical point that gets underrated day-to-day: pads that are too hard can give the orbital trouble on very fresh or very thin clear coat — the lack of conformity to the dips and micro-texture of the paint leads to an uneven cut pattern. So the ExzenterPad hart isn't the hardest pad imaginable but a carefully picked middle ground between maximum cutting energy and enough give. It's optimised for paint with normal to high film thickness — from roughly 80 µm clear coat up. On very thin paint (under 60 µm) or very fresh new paint, start with the ExzenterPad medium for testing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe cell structure of the foam is closed, which has two practical upshots: first, the pad soaks up polish less aggressively than open-cell foams — that means less polish lost in the pad material and more product at the paint surface. Second, the pad is easier to clean after use, because the polish mostly sits on the surface and doesn't work deep into the cell matrix. Regularly washed foam pads keep their original cut over many jobs — an economic edge over wool pads, which lose cut faster after heavy use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe back of the ExzenterPad hart has a hook-and-loop backing (Velcro) that fits straight onto standard backing plates with a hook\u0026amp;loop face. The bond is built for the high centrifugal forces of orbital motors — no shifting or loosening of the pad in use, not even at higher speeds. The hook-and-loop layer is vulcanised to the foam, not just glued on — that stops delamination after repeated taking off and putting on.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eFor pad care: after use, wash the ExzenterPad hart out with lukewarm water and a mild cleaner, squeeze it gently (never wring) and let it dry flat. Foam pads shouldn't go in the washing machine — the mechanical stress on the spin cycle wrecks the cell structure and permanently kills the return hardness. Hand-washing takes 2 minutes and keeps the pad properties fully intact over dozens of jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the ExzenterPad hart — polish combination, machine speed and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad hart is made for use with heavy-cut compounds — in the PROFILINE system, paired with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" cutting compound\u003c\/a\u003e or the PROFILINE EX \"05-05\" cutting compound. This combo is built for cars with sanding marks from sandpaper up to P1000, heavy holograms from automatic car washes, and medium to deep oxidation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe optimal machine speed for the ExzenterPad hart sits, depending on the machine, at a medium to high setting (setting 4–6 on a typical 5-step orbital). On a geared orbital (e.g. SONAX or Rupes BigFoot) that's about 3,800–4,500 rpm. Too low and the hard pad doesn't cut efficiently — the foam structure needs enough kinetic energy to work the clear coat. Too high on small, curved areas (bumper edges, A-pillar transition) and you risk the pad catching edges and pulling off too much locally.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolish dosing: with the ExzenterPad hart, the classic 5-dot pattern works well (one blob of polish in the middle and four near the edges). The amount per panel (about 50×50 cm) is 3–5 pea-sized dots, depending on the cut strength of the polish. Before you switch the machine on, spread the polish over the area with the pad (power off) to avoid splatter. Then switch on at setting 1–2 until the polish is worked in, and bring it up to working speed. One pass is 2–3 overlapping runs over the same panel segment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter polishing a panel, give the pad a quick check: if the foam is saturated and discoloured (dark, greasy), you need a cleaning step before you go at the next panel. A saturated pad only smears polish as a film with no real cut — cleaning or swapping the pad is then more efficient than carrying on. With a pad spinner you can clean a foam pad enough in about 15 seconds to keep working panels; a full wash happens at the end of the workday.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the ExzenterPad hart works — paint defects, vehicle types and polishing stages\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad hart is the workhorse for the heavy-cut stage of a multi-step car detail. Typical scenarios: used cars with holograms and wash marks from years of car-wash use, new cars with transport paint damage (fine sanding marks from final inspection), cars after a P1200 sanding step for deep scratch removal, plus heavily matted or oxidised paint on used cars that went years without a polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn new cars, be careful: fresh OEM clear coats aren't fully cured in the first 30–90 days after painting and react more sensitively to mechanical stress. On new cars under 3 months, use the ExzenterPad hart only with lighter heavy-cut compounds (not the strongest formula) and at reduced speed. Once cured, the paint is far more resilient and takes full heavy-cut treatment without risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the body, the ExzenterPad hart suits all the large panels — bonnet, roof, wings and doors. For tight edge work at the bumper transition, on door shut lines and around window rubbers, a smaller pad (Ø80 mm, if available) or working by hand with polish and a cloth is the better fit. The Ø125 mm pad is the all-rounder; the Ø150 mm pad is for maximum area throughput on wide surfaces like the bonnet and roof — with the bigger pad you're about 20–30 % faster per car at comparable cut quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a professional detailing shop the ExzenterPad hart is usually used for the first cutting pass, followed by an ExzenterPad medium with a medium polish for the refining stage and an \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-weich-125-polierpad\"\u003eExzenterPad weich\u003c\/a\u003e with a finishing polish for the final gloss. This three-stage system delivers repeatable results: step one clears all the defects, step two removes the leftover marks from step one, and step three gets the final shine. Try to do all three steps with a single pad and you compromise either the cut or the finish quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eExzenterPad hart compared — DA polishing pad vs. SchaumPad vs. ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common question when building a PROFILINE pad line-up is the difference between the ExzenterPad and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-schaumpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSchaumPad hart\u003c\/a\u003e: both are hard foam pads for heavy-cut work, but they're optimised in geometry and foam formula for different machine types. The SchaumPad hart is built for rotary polishers — it works with the even rotary motion and transfers that energy optimally into cut. The ExzenterPad hart is built for DA orbitals — the foam structure is laid out for the random orbital throw, which puts completely different demands on compression behaviour and return hardness. Run an ExzenterPad hart on a rotary and you'll usually notice reduced cut — and the other way round. The pads aren't fully interchangeable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe comparison between the ExzenterPad hart and the ExzenterPad medium comes down to how much cut you need: the ExzenterPad medium gives clearly less cut, but it also builds less heat and leaves finer marks in the paint. For cars with light to medium holograms (normal wear without deep scratches) the medium pad is enough and gentler. For heavily damaged paint, or when you need to move fast through serious defects, the ExzenterPad hart is the right tool. As a rule of thumb: if a panel still shows visible scratches after a full pass with the ExzenterPad medium and a heavy-cut compound, the ExzenterPad hart is the right call for the next detail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother relevant comparison is the ExzenterPad hart vs. the HybridWollPad: the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-hybridwollpad-wollpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HybridWollPad\u003c\/a\u003e gives clearly more cut on the rotary than the ExzenterPad hart on the DA orbital. For heavy paint defects that even the ExzenterPad hart and CutMax can't fully clear, the HybridWollPad on the rotary is the stronger option. This choice between orbital + ExzenterPad hart and rotary + HybridWollPad depends on the specific defect picture and the machine set-up of your shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad hart — size choice, set formats and shop use\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that work exclusively with DA orbitals, the ExzenterPad hart is the primary heavy-cut pad. The size recommendation: Ø125 mm for shops with a standard-format orbital, Ø150 mm for shops betting on efficiency over large areas with a 150 mm plate machine. Shops with both machine sizes ideally keep both pad sizes in stock.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 15-pack in Ø125 mm format is made for professional detailing shops polishing several cars a day. In an average shop with 3–5 cars a day you'll need 6–10 pads per workday (2 each per car in rotation), so a set stock covers the week. With 15 pads on hand you can run several pads in rotation through a long workday and clean them together in the evening — no productivity loss from waiting on single-pad cleaning. The 10-pack in Ø150 mm format follows the same logic for the bigger format. Against buying singles, the set format saves a fair bit per pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe lifespan of an ExzenterPad hart depends on how well you look after it: regularly washed pads last 50–100 cars before the foam structure gives up. The tell for a worn pad: it presses all the way through under normal finger pressure (no rebound left), or the surface shows cracks and signs of coming apart. A worn pad should be replaced right away — it drops dramatically in cut and can leave uneven cut marks on freshly painted surfaces. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 keeps the ExzenterPad hart in both sizes and both set formats permanently in the range.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø125 mm – 1 piece","offer_id":57345291288911,"sku":"D1-SNX-4923410","price":16.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø125 mm – 15 pieces","offer_id":57345291321679,"sku":"D1-SNX-4923000","price":109.48,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø150 mm – 1 piece","offer_id":57345291354447,"sku":"D1-SNX-4924410","price":18.21,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø150 mm – 10 pieces","offer_id":57345291387215,"sku":"D1-SNX-4924000","price":83.3,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-hart_125-mm--1-stueck.png?v=1774736550"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-medium-polierpad","title":"SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium polishing pad","description":"\u003ch2\u003eMedium cut, full control — the SONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium in real use\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat sets a medium-cut polishing pad apart from a soft or hard one? A medium-cut pad — like the ExzenterPad medium — corrects light to moderate paint defects on DA polishers without overdoing the cut, and shifts heat away nicely.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've ever polished with the wrong pad, you know how it ends: either you cut too much and the paint overheats, or there isn't enough bite and the scratches stay put. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly the zone where most correction happens — light swirls, fine scratches, moderate oxidation and holograms that finishing pads can no longer touch, but that don't need an aggressive cutting pad either. The medium-cut foam profile gives you the room to correct efficiently without losing your grip on how much you're removing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium-cut foam profile for precise paint correction.\u003c\/strong\u003e The open-pore foam structure of the ExzenterPad medium builds enough cut with the right polish to clear swirls, holograms and fine scratches. The removal stays controllable — you correct exactly where you want without over-stressing the paint surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEfficient heat shedding through open-cell foam.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polishing on DA orbitals generates friction heat, and closed-pore pads trap it, which can lead to heat spots or paint damage. The open-cell foam of the ExzenterPad medium draws heat away evenly and protects sensitive clear coats.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVersatile size choice for different working areas.\u003c\/strong\u003e With Ø125 mm for precise work in tight spots and Ø150 mm for large panels, the ExzenterPad medium gives you the flexibility a pro day calls for. Both sizes fit standard hook-and-loop backing plates.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Before the first run, drop 3–4 pea-sized blobs of polish onto the pad and spread them across a panel at low speed before you start correcting — what we call \"priming\" the pad. A fresh PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium drinks up more polish on the first pass; only on the second pass does it show its full cutting power. After every panel, blow the pad out with a pad brush or a pad cleaner to clear polish residue — that stretches the pad's life by a lot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOpen-cell foam and medium cut — how the ExzenterPad medium works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pad you pick decides how much time and how many passes a correction takes. Too soft a pad doesn't build enough pressure to pull scratches out of the clear coat; too hard a pad leaves a faint hologram pattern behind that you then have to chase off with a finishing pad in another pass. Understanding pad mechanics saves you real time and abrasive day-to-day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA raw foam blank and a finished pad are not the same thing. What looks at first glance like a simple piece of foam is the result of a deliberate material choice: pore size, foam hardness and cell structure together decide how much abrasive the pad takes up, how it releases it, and how fast it heats up. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/strong\u003e uses an open-cell polyurethane foam of medium hardness. The open cell build means polish spreads evenly through the pad and meters out onto the paint — a steady supply that stops the pad running dry and keeps the abrasive working consistently.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA pad's cut comes from how foam hardness, surface texture and pore structure play together. Soft pads compress a lot, have more contact with the paint but less pressure per point — ideal for finishing. Hard pads barely compress, build high local pressure and therefore more cut. The medium pad sits in between: it compresses in a controlled way, builds pressure steadily, and still spreads polish evenly. In practice that means you can clear swirls and holograms in one or two passes with the ExzenterPad medium without necessarily needing a separate finishing pass afterwards — as long as you match the right polish to it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eChoosing between Ø125 and Ø150 mm depends on the working area and the machine. Ø125 mm is the standard size for DA orbitals with a 5 mm throw and works on every body section. Ø150 mm lets you cover more ground on large, flat panels like the bonnet or roof, but it needs a machine with the power headroom to back it. If you run both sizes, you can switch deliberately between detail work and large-area polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe hook-and-loop backing on the pad is made for standard backing plates. The Velcro quality on the PROFILINE line holds reliably even through several hours of continuous use — the pad sits tight, doesn't spin out, and won't peel off on its own even on a damp, greasy surface. With cheaper pads that's one of the most common headaches day-to-day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a DA polishing pad right — step by step with the ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore your first polishing pass, a quick paint check pays off. Heavily soiled paint should be decontaminated before polishing — an iron remover binds fallout, and a clay bar product pulls off bonded contamination that would otherwise act as grinding grit during polishing. On clean, decontaminated paint the ExzenterPad medium works more efficiently: the abrasive particles in the polish bite straight into the clear coat instead of burning energy loosening surface dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDA orbitals work with a combined rotation-and-orbital motion — that makes them more forgiving than rotaries and easier to get into for beginners, but you still need the right technique. Your speed setting drives how much cut the ExzenterPad medium actually develops. For medium correction work, a speed between 4,000 and 5,500 revolutions per minute is the sweet spot. Lower speeds cut heat build-up but give less bite; higher speeds speed up the correction but raise the risk of heat spots on repeated overlaps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlways pick a test panel first — ideally a low-key spot on the car, like the lower door area or a less exposed corner of the roof. Lay the polish straight onto the pad, not onto the paint. Start at low speed and spread the polish across the panel without leaning in, then bring the speed up for the actual correction pass. Overlapping passes of 30–40 % give an even result without streaks. Two to three passes are usually enough for moderate swirls; deeper scratches call for extra passes or a switch to the ExzenterPad hart.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the pass, the residue pattern of the polish becomes your indicator: when the abrasive film has broken down evenly and is almost fully worked in, the pad has done its job. Clumpy or uneven residue points to too much polish or too low a speed. The PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium cleans up after use with warm water and pad wash, and is reusable once dry. Pros recommend sorting pads by polish type and never switching between abrasive and finishing products on the same pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting paint defects — when the ExzenterPad medium is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePaint care isn't only about looks — it's about holding value. A car with corrected, sealed paint scores measurably better at lease return or resale than one with untouched wear marks. Polishing with a DA orbital and the ExzenterPad medium is, for high-mileage drivers and fleets, an investment that pays back at the next valuation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ExzenterPad medium is the all-rounder in the polishing-pad line-up — it covers the zone you reach for most often in day-to-day detailing. Cars with normal wear that get washed regularly build up a fine swirl pattern over months, picked up from automatic washes, microfibre towels or wash sponges carrying grit. That exact surface depth — usually 1 to 3 microns — is the target zone of the ExzenterPad medium. It removes enough to drop below the scratch depth without cutting into deeper layers of paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMore heavily damaged paint with deep scratches, oxidation damage or baked-in water spots that don't bridge under the fingernail test need the ExzenterPad hart or a rotary pass. An honest read before you start polishing saves time: if you can feel a scratch with your fingernail, it sits in the primer or at the edge of the clear coat — the ExzenterPad medium won't fully clear it. As a rule of thumb: what the nail glides over without catching, the medium pad can correct.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature plays a part too: on cold paint below 10 °C the foam stiffens up — the pad compresses less and the contact pressure climbs. On hot summer days outdoors, on the other hand, the pad goes softer and cuts more. Factor those variables into your first test panel so you can read the result before you polish whole panels.\u003cbr\u003e\nOn freshly painted cars, new vehicles with fine transport scratches, or after a chemical decon with a clay bar product, the ExzenterPad medium is your first choice for paint correction too. It gives the paint enough cut for a visible improvement without the risk of grinding through fresh paint that hasn't fully cured. After correcting with the ExzenterPad medium, a closing finishing pass with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-weich-125-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad weich\u003c\/a\u003e is worth it, to clear the last micro-scratches from the polishing pass and leave the paint mirror-clear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eExzenterPad medium vs hart vs SchaumPad — which pad when?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePad choice in practice isn't a matter of taste, it's a matter of paint condition and the result you're after. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/strong\u003e holds the middle: more cut than a finishing pad, more mercy than a cutting pad. The ExzenterPad hart suits pronounced scratches, oxidation and heavy swirls — its denser foam core builds enough pressure with a high-abrasive polish for deep material removal. The downside: the finishing work afterwards is heavier, because the hard pad leaves finer holograms behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-hart-polierpad\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ExzenterPad hart\u003c\/a\u003e, the medium pad can fold the first correction pass straight into finishing in a two-stage workflow — when the polish matches the pad's cut. That saves time and is plenty for cars in normal condition. If you work with a one-step polish like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP \"03-06\"\u003c\/a\u003e, the ExzenterPad medium is the ideal carrier foam: the NP \"03-06\" develops its cut and its finishing properties best on medium-cut pads and leaves a high gloss after a single pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst the SchaumPads from the PROFILINE line, the ExzenterPad stands apart through its specific tuning for DA machines. SchaumPads can in principle be run on orbitals too, but their material spec is built around rotary use. The ExzenterPad medium is dialled in with a DA orbital — the rebound character of the foam matches the machine's motion frequency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho it's for, combinations and buying advice for the ExzenterPad medium\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe medium polishing pad from the PROFILINE line is built for professional detailers who work regularly with DA orbitals and need a dependable correction pad for the everyday bulk of cars. For detailing beginners with a DA machine it's the right starter pad too, because it's more forgiving than a hard cutting pad. The risk of grinding through the paint with the wrong technique is clearly lower with the medium pad than with an aggressive cutting pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you work on different vehicle types regularly, you'll benefit from a structured pad system. Dark cars and clear coats with thin film thickness call for more of a feel — here the ExzenterPad medium is often the safe bet, because it keeps the removal controllable. On light colours and paint with good film thickness, a hard pad on the first pass can make sense too, to clear deep scratches faster. A careful film-thickness check with a paint depth gauge before polishing is standard at a professional level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor professional use, the pack options of 15 pieces (Ø125 mm) or 10 pieces (Ø150 mm) are worth it. Detailers polishing several cars a day change the pad at the latest after two or three cars — a fresh pad gives consistently better results than a saturated one. With the 15-piece set you have enough pads for a working day without washing in between. That saves not just time but polish too, because a fresh pad takes up the abrasive more efficiently and releases it more evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor single users with the odd polishing job, the single pack is the right pick: cared for well and cleaned after every use, a PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium lasts many jobs. The combo of ExzenterPad medium for the correction pass and ExzenterPad weich for the closing finishing pass is the standard two-stage workflow Detailing1 recommends for normal everyday cars. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 stocks the PROFILINE ExzenterPad medium permanently in all sizes and pack quantities. For shops with high polishing volume, combined pad sets are worth a look too: a stock of medium and soft pads covers the whole two-stage workflow without having to reorder mid-job. On request, Detailing1 gives advice on pad rotation strategy for different vehicle classes and polish types.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"Ø125 mm – 1 piece","offer_id":57345292337487,"sku":"D1-SNX-4986000","price":16.9,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø125 mm – 15 pieces","offer_id":57345292370255,"sku":"D1-SNX-4987000","price":109.48,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø150 mm – 1 piece","offer_id":57345292403023,"sku":"D1-SNX-4986410","price":18.21,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"Ø150 mm – 10 pieces","offer_id":57345292435791,"sku":"D1-SNX-4987410","price":83.3,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-exzenterpad-medium_125-mm--1-stueck.png?v=1774736564"}],"url":"https:\/\/detiiling1.com\/collections\/sonax-polieren.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}