{"title":"Polish — SONAX","description":null,"products":[{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur","title":"XTREME Polish+Wax 3 Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFine scratches and hazing gone, paint sealed — with the SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does a finishing polish actually do? This light combination polish pulls out fine scratches, hazing and oxidation — and seals the paint in the same step with Hybrid NetProtection Technology for lasting protection and real depth of gloss.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNot every paint defect calls for an aggressive cutting compound. If you want to freshen up paint that is already in good shape, or clear the fine water spots and hazing left behind after winter, you do not need a heavy cutting product — you need a finishing polish that works gently and protects at the same time. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e is exactly that: a light combination polish that pulls fine scratches, swirl marks and oxidation haze out of the clear coat and seals it in one single pass with Hybrid NetProtection Technology. The result is mirror gloss with depth — without loading the paint more than it needs. As the finest member of the XTREME Polish+Wax range, it is the logical pick for the last polishing stage in a multi-step workflow, or as a stand-alone product on cars whose paint is still healthy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo what does \"light cut\" mean in practice? Clear coat has a limited film thickness — on most cars somewhere between 30 and 60 microns. Every polish takes a slice of that. An aggressive cutting compound can remove 5–10 microns in a single pass, a fine finishing polish less than 1–2 microns. That makes a real difference to how long the paint lasts: with the right polish at the right strength you can keep the clear coat in shape year after year without the film thickness dropping into awkward territory. This is where a well-graded set of polishes pays off — and the Polish+Wax 3 fills exactly the slot most car owners are missing: the gentle, regularly usable finishing polish with a sealant built in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLight cut for gentle paint correction.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Polish+Wax 3 runs fine abrasives that pull surface scratches and micro-marring out of the clear coat without digging deeper than they have to. That makes it the safe pick for soft paint, older cars, or as the closing step after a harder cutting stage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — polish and seal in one.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NPT sealant in the bottle ties inorganic and organic protection components into a weather-resistant network right on the paint. That saves you a separate wax or sealant pass and still gives you measurable water beading and protection against the elements.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDeep gloss and colour brilliance as the end result.\u003c\/strong\u003e The mix of fine abrasion and the sealant that follows leaves a mirror finish with real depth. On dark paint especially, the difference to an untreated or merely waxed panel jumps straight out — the paint looks fresh, rich and three-dimensional.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the Polish+Wax 3 by machine with a soft finishing pad — low to medium speed, light pressure. That spreads the cut evenly without stressing the clear coat. Working by hand? Small sections (30 × 30 cm), cross-hatch passes, medium pressure as you work the product in. Once it has flashed off (the surface goes slightly dull), buff it back — that is when the full gloss shows up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — the sealant formula behind the Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology (NPT) is the technical heart of the whole XTREME Polish+Wax range. Behind the name sits a sealing approach that links organic and inorganic protection components together — think of a chemical network built straight onto the clear coat. Inorganic components such as silicon-based compounds are hard, UV-stable and shield against mechanical attack from dirt and water. Organic components such as waxes or polymers are flexible, grip the paint well and deliver that typical gloss and soft feel underhand. Linking both systems gives you a protective layer that is neither too rigid nor too soft — it moves with temperature swings, it stays put, and it invites water to bead. For you that means one product, two jobs. No separate waxing, no separate sealing after polishing. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e closes both steps in one pass and still lands a result that can hold its own against a sealant applied afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo where is the difference between the Polish+Wax 3 and other one-step products? The key is the quality of the abrasives. Cheap combination polishes often lean on coarse abrasive bonds that show quick results but hit the paint harder. The fine abrasives in the Polish+Wax 3 are sized to work through hazing, water marks and swirls effectively without cutting into deeper layers of clear coat. That looks after the material long term and lets you reach for the bottle regularly without worrying about thinning the clear coat over the years — a decisive edge over stronger cutting compounds in continuous use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more plus: the product is easy to control. Where aggressive polishes can burn through an edge or a body line in seconds, this fine formulation is forgiving — even if you are less experienced, the risk of over-polishing stays low. The NPT sealant that builds up during the polishing pass needs no curing time like a ceramic product and no separate coat — it forms as you polish and is active the moment you buff off. That simplifies the whole routine and makes the Polish+Wax 3 a dependable all-rounder for regular paint care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the XTREME Polish+Wax 3 — step by step to a mirror finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore any polish comes a proper wash: get the dirt, road film and loose grit off the paint — ideally with a two-bucket wash or a foam wash, so nothing abrasive stays behind on the panel. If you want the maximum out of it, run an iron decontamination step before polishing to pull embedded iron particles. The polishing pass with the Polish+Wax 3 then happens on clean, dry paint. The product goes on by machine or by hand: with a polisher (dual action or rotary) and a soft finishing pad you get even results across big panels, while hand application suits smaller corrections or anyone without a machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe way we recommend: a small blob of product onto the pad, spread it at low speed, then work it in evenly at medium speed. Do not work in direct sun or on hot paint — the product grabs too fast and buffing off gets harder. After working it in, let it flash off briefly (until the surface goes slightly dull) and then buff with a clean microfibre. The result shows immediately: an evenly glossy panel with no residue. The Polish+Wax 3 also suits beginners in paint care — the light colour of the product and the easy dosing make it simple to hit the right amount and avoid going over the same spot too often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor trim, mirrors or tight sections we recommend a smaller polishing pad or hand application with a folded microfibre. That way you get an even result in awkward spots too, without slinging product onto rubber seals or plastic parts. If you are planning several passes — on a car that has gone a long time without care, say — check the result in proper light (a detailing lamp or daylight) after each pass before you lay down the next one. That saves you pointless repeats and spares both time and material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when the Polish+Wax 3 is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME Polish+Wax 3 is ideal for cars whose paint is fundamentally sound but would benefit from a refresh. Typical situations: after the winter break, when leftover grime and water spots have baked into the clear coat; after a cutting stage with a stronger compound, as the closing fine step; or after a drive through sand or fine dust that has left light swirls on the paint. With heavier scratches or deeper oxidation damage — visible grooves, sanding marks, dullness across a whole panel — it runs into its limits. In that case a stronger cutting compound is the right first move, with the Polish+Wax 3 as the finisher.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt works especially well on dark colours such as black, dark blue or graphite metallic — that is where sensitivity to fine scratches and haze is highest, and where the visual payoff of a successful polish is most impressive. On light paint it works just as well, but the before-and-after difference is naturally a bit less dramatic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt also suits cars with a factory clear-coat sealant or a protective film, as long as the sealant is not already too thick or too hard — in that case, check whether the protective layer is still intact before you polish. After a pass with the Polish+Wax 3, a further sealant is optional, since the NPT technology has already built a layer of protection. If you still want more, you can lay a compatible sealant or a ceramic straight on top — paint that has just been polished and degreased is the ideal base for it. Regular care with the finishing polish in spring and autumn shields the paint through the toughest stretches of the year — after a winter of road salt and before the UV-heavy summer season — and keeps it long term in a state that barely needs correcting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolish+Wax 3 compared — where it sits in the SONAX XTREME polish line-up\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME Polish+Wax line is sorted by cut: the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/a\u003e offers a medium cut — ideal for hazing, but also for lighter scratches and medium oxidation. The Polish+Wax 3 is the finer option: it corrects less aggressively, which makes it the natural choice for the closing polishing step or for paint that is already well looked after. Both share the Hybrid NPT sealant, they differ in cut. If you want a clean, soft finish after heavy correction with the Polish+Wax 2 or a pro-grade compound, you close the workflow with the Polish+Wax 3 — and tick off polishing and sealing in the same step. This two-stage approach — medium correction first, then refining and sealing — is a proven workflow in professional paint correction, and you can run it with XTREME products without moving up to the pro machine polishing line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs an alternative, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the modern ceramic option — it combines light abrasion with a ceramic sealant that builds a harder, longer-lasting layer than the NPT technology. If you are after maximum durability from the sealant and still want to polish and protect with one product, the Ceramic Polish takes you a step further. For the regular, simpler refresh with little effort, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegelung\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e is an alternative: a light hand wax polish for quick depth of gloss between care intervals. The Polish+Wax 3 sits between these products — more corrective bite than BrilliantWax, more accessible than a ceramic system. For the systematic detailer who picks products by the state of the paint, it is the natural first pick for the status \"paint in good shape, a few things to tidy up\" — before you decide whether heavier correction is really necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the Polish+Wax 3 from SONAX pays off for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right product for anyone who wants to keep their paint in top shape regularly without reaching for an aggressive compound every time. It suits paint-care beginners looking for a forgiving product, and experienced detailers who use it as the closing stage in a graded polishing workflow. The mix of genuine correction and a built-in long-term sealant makes it one of the most versatile products in the XTREME range. The 500 ml bottle covers several full car treatments and is good value for that. If you care about lasting paint protection and want to take it one step further, run the Polish+Wax 3 as the correction stage and finish with a ceramic sealant for maximum durability.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOur verdict: if you want an all-round paint product that works fast, easily and with a visible result — and seals on top of that — the Polish+Wax 3 has you covered. It is not a tool for heavy correction on deep damage, but for everything that comes after that, or that is needed in between, it has the right format: friendly and forgiving to use, consistent and even in the result, fair on price. It is a particularly good match for cars with paint that is looked after but no longer factory-fresh — the broad middle of the fleet, three to ten years on the road. In that class there is often not much missing from a top result, and the light cut of the Polish+Wax 3 is enough to unlock that potential in full.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160876949839,"sku":"D1-SNX-0202200","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Polish-Wax-3-9.png?v=1721514206"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur","title":"XTREME Polish+Wax 2 Car Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove fine scratches and build lasting deep gloss with SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2 do? This all-in-one polish with a medium cut removes fine wash marks and hazing while sealing at the same time with Hybrid NetProtection Technology — polishing and sealing in one step.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA car with lightly stressed paint — fine wash marks, a bit of hazing, the first UV-induced dullness — doesn't need an aggressive correction compound. What it needs is a product that polishes the paint gently, brings the colour depth back and lays down a protective seal at the same time. That's exactly where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is strong: an all-in-one polish with a medium cut that pairs fine abrasives with Hybrid NetProtection Technology. The result is mirror-like deep gloss, seriously good water beading and a durable protective layer that goes on in a single pass — no separate sealing round. If you want to refresh your paint regularly without spending hours on correction, the Polish+Wax 2 is the one to grab.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePolishing and sealing in one step — time saved, nothing given up.\u003c\/strong\u003e Most polishes need a separate sealing step once the polishing is done. The Polish+Wax 2 builds Hybrid NetProtection Technology straight into the polish: while the abrasives work the fine scratches out, the NPT components lay down a protective layer at the same time. That saves time and makes sure the freshly polished surface is sealed right away.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMirror-like deep gloss with a proper colour boost.\u003c\/strong\u003e The extremely fine abrasives in the Polish+Wax 2 are tuned for as-new and regularly maintained paint — they level the clearcoat without pulling off more material than needed. What you get is an evenly mirroring surface with deep colour saturation, especially on dark paint.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — a seal that bonds with the paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e NPT links inorganic and organic protective components into a stable network on the paint surface. That network handles the weather better than a simple wax layer and protects long term against UV, acid rain and organic deposits like bug splatter and bird droppings.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Protect plastic and rubber trim before you polish with the XTREME KunststoffGel Außen — polish residue in shut lines and on rubber seals is a pain to get out and leaves white marks. Lay the polish down on dry paint, spread it thin and work it in straight away with a medium-hard microfibre cloth — don't let it dry on. For machine work with a polishing pad set, the Polish+Wax 2 gives especially even results, because the heat from the machine kicks off the NPT cross-linking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology — how polishing and sealing work chemically in one step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHybrid NetProtection Technology is the chemical heart of the Polish+Wax 2 and explains why the product does more than a simple \"polish with a bit of wax in it\". Conventional all-in-one polishes use wax as the sealing component — that works, but wax layers are comparatively short-lived and sensitive to alkaline cleaners and UV. Hybrid NPT takes a different route: it combines inorganic protective components (similar to the ones used in mineral sealants) with organic polymers to form a hybrid network. That hybrid structure bonds more strongly to the clearcoat than pure wax and stays more flexible than purely inorganic sealants, which crack sooner under mechanical stress. The result is a protective layer that brings together the best of both worlds: the chemical resistance of inorganic compounds and the mechanical flexibility of organic polymers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasives in the Polish+Wax 2 are set up for a medium cut — they take out fine scratches in depth class 1 to 2 (wash marks, brush strikes, light holograms) without digging into the clearcoat. That's an important difference to more aggressive compounds used on heavily weathered or deeply damaged paint: a gentle cut protects the clearcoat from losing too much material and extends the life of the paint. On as-new cars and regularly maintained paint, the medium cut of the Polish+Wax 2 is the right way into paint care — treat your paint twice a year with it and you keep it in as-new condition long term, without burning through your clearcoat reserve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA common misunderstanding: that an all-in-one polish is less effective than separate polishing and sealing steps. That's not true across the board. On badly neglected paint with deep scratches and an oxidised surface, a multi-stage correction with an aggressive cutting compound, a finishing polish and a separate sealant makes sense. For everything else — as-new paint, regular maintenance polishing, a seasonal refresh — an all-in-one polish is the more efficient answer. It saves time, cuts the number of products you need and delivers results that are more than enough for everyday use. The Polish+Wax 2 closes the gap between \"not polishing at all\" and \"a professional multi-step correction\" perfectly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Polish+Wax 2 properly — step by step to deep gloss\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorking with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e always starts with a thorough wash. Dirt, grit and brake dust left on the paint act like sandpaper when you polish and cut scratches far worse than what you started with. After the wash, dry the car completely — polishes work far better on dry paint and grip more evenly. Before you start, protect plastic and rubber areas with masking tape or the XTREME KunststoffGel so no polish residue creeps into the shut lines.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe polish goes onto a SONAX applicator sponge or a polishing ball and gets spread over the paint in even, overlapping passes. Technique decides the result here: straight back-and-forth or lightly crossing lines beat circular motions, which can leave holograms. Lay the polish down thin and even — too much product only makes the wipe-off harder and doesn't improve anything. Split the paint into sections you can handle: bonnet, roof, boot lid, one side at a time. Once it's spread, wipe it off straight away with a clean, medium-hard microfibre cloth, before the polish dries on. Dried residue is a pain to get out and can leave streaks. For the best finish, go over the panel again after the wipe-off with a second, fresh microfibre and buff it dry — that second pass pulls the last residues off and brings out the full gloss the NPT seal makes possible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA classic mistake when working by hand is too much pressure. Polishes don't need you to lean on them — the chemical action of the abrasives is enough to level fine scratches. Too much pressure builds heat, which breaks the abrasives down too fast and cures the sealing components too early, before they've spread evenly across the paint. Light, even pressure with calm, overlapping passes is the recipe for consistent results. Working outdoors, watch out for direct sun: if the paint is hot (above about 30°C), move into the shade or wait for it to cool, because the heat cuts your working time right down and dry spots can form.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 is explicitly suited to machine work. A dual-action polisher with a medium-hard pad gives more even results than working by hand, because the machine keeps the pressure and the speed constant. One thing that matters: prime the pad fully with polish before you start, so the first pass doesn't run dry. After machine work, buff to a high gloss with a fresh microfibre. The water beading from the NPT seal shows after the very first application — by the first rain at the latest you'll see the classic lotus effect on the freshly treated paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when the Polish+Wax 2 is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 was developed for a clearly defined job and it delivers there: as-new cars (0–3 years) with fine everyday scratches, regularly maintained cars that need a seasonal refresh (spring care after winter, autumn care before the salt season), and paint with light UV-induced hazing. For that range the medium cut is exactly right: it clears the defects that are there completely and leaves no unnecessary damage in the clearcoat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the Polish+Wax 2 stops: for deep scratches, heavy oxidation, orange peel or strong holograms you need a stronger cutting stage. The XTREME Polish+Wax 3 has a stronger cut and is the right choice for harder-worn paint — often the combination of Polish+Wax 3 as the first step and Polish+Wax 2 as the finishing step is the most professional way through neglected paint. And on fresh factory paint that's still \"green\" and shows no defects at all, a pure sealant with no polishing step is the better call, so you don't stress the paint for nothing. In those cases the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-protect-shine-hochglanz-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Protect+Shine high-gloss sealant\u003c\/a\u003e without abrasives is the product for the job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 really shines on dark paint — black, dark blue, dark grey — because those colours show deep gloss and colour saturation most clearly. Light paint (white, silver) benefits too, but the difference between treated and untreated is far more dramatic on dark surfaces. On metallic paint the NPT seal makes sure the metallic flakes reflect evenly instead of being muted by haze — an effect that looks especially impressive on red and blue metallics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother job it's made for is prepping a used car before you buy or sell. If you're buying, the state of the paint tells you quickly how well the car was looked after — and freshly polished paint is a strong signal of care and value retention. If you're selling, a careful polish can visibly lift the price you get. One to two hours of work for a full polishing treatment — and material costs of under 20 euros — can easily justify several hundred euros more at sale. The Polish+Wax 2 is especially good for this because it gives solid results even without a machine, and the seal presents the car at its best for potential buyers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe Polish+Wax 2 compared — where it sits in the SONAX XTREME polish range\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe XTREME polish range from SONAX is laid out clearly by cut and purpose. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e takes the middle spot: more cut than a plain wax care stick, less than an aggressive correction compound. The XTREME Polish+Wax 3 has a stronger cut, is built for older and more weathered paint and can take out deeper scratches — but it also demands more control, because too much abrasion can damage the clearcoat. For getting into active paint care, the Polish+Wax 2 is therefore the safer recommendation, because it does less harm if your technique isn't dialled in yet. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegel\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e isn't really a cutting product at all but a polish with a wax seal for very light defects and gentle surface care — it has less cut than the Polish+Wax 2, but its higher wax content gives a soft, warm gloss that people prefer on classics and rare cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to products from other makers, the Polish+Wax 2 is one of the most complete answers in its price bracket, because it polishes and seals in one step without giving anything up. Plenty of entry-level all-in-one polishes sacrifice either the cut or the sealing performance — the Polish+Wax 2 keeps both at a professional level. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e is the stronger alternative when the defects are pronounced, and can be used as a first stage ahead of the Polish+Wax 2. Running both — Polish+Wax 3 to kill the defects, then Polish+Wax 2 for the refinement and the final seal — is a proper two-step workflow that gets great results even on badly neglected paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the Polish+Wax 2 is right for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right choice for anyone who wants to take paint care into their own hands and has a car with lightly to moderately stressed paint. It's simple enough for beginners with no polishing experience, and precise enough for experienced detailers looking for a fast, reliable maintenance polishing step. The 500 ml bottle covers several full cars and gives you very good value for the quality on offer — both the cut and the sealing performance of the Hybrid NPT sit clearly above comparable all-in-one polishes from the supermarket shelf. You'll notice the difference by the first rain at the latest: the water beading from the NPT seal is obvious even to a complete novice and a reliable sign the seal went on properly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor seasonal paint care we recommend the Polish+Wax 2 twice a year — in spring to clear salt residue and the micro-scratches winter leaves behind, and in autumn to prepare the paint for the hard winter season. That routine keeps the paint in a state where most fine defects never form in the first place, because the seal works as a buffer between the paint and the elements. Stick to that rhythm and use a quick detailer for the short-term refresh between polishes, and you'll have well-kept paint all year without a big time investment. Regular care isn't just about looks either — it protects the value of the car long term, because well-kept paint ages far more slowly and keeps the bodywork safe from corrosion risk through creeping moisture. At Detailing1 you'll find the polish together with the kit that goes with it — applicator sponges, microfibre cloths and polishing pad sets for machine work — for the complete polishing workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49160877343055,"sku":"D1-SNX-02072000","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/Sonax-XTREME-Polish-Wax-2-0.png?v=1721514375"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegelung","title":"XTREME BrilliantWax 1 polish with wax sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePolish and seal in one step for a deep, high-gloss finish — SONAX XTREME BrilliantWax 1 in real use\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat sets a polish with wax sealant apart from a plain polish? A polish-and-wax combo lightly cuts the paint, clears up fine surface haze and leaves a protective layer of wax at the same time — two jobs in a single pass.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCar paint loses its original gloss over time to micro-scratches, UV and oxidation of the clear coat. Regular polishing brings that gloss back — and when you build a layer of protection in the same go, the effort really pays off. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/strong\u003e is a polish with built-in wax sealant in a 500 ml tin that brightens paint, pulls out deep gloss and seals it with a layer of wax, all in one step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePolish and seal in one step for efficient paint care.\u003c\/strong\u003e BrilliantWax 1 pairs a mild cutting action that clears fine dullness with a built-in wax sealant. If you don't want to add a separate sealing step after polishing, you save time without giving up the protection of a wax layer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMild abrasive for regular care intervals without eating into the clear coat.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasive grade in BrilliantWax 1 is built for regular use — not for one-off correction of deep scratches. For a yearly or twice-yearly maintenance polish that keeps the gloss up, this is the right cut. Too aggressive a polish used regularly would thin the clear coat over the long run.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks by hand and by machine for flexible use.\u003c\/strong\u003e You can lay BrilliantWax 1 down by hand with a sponge or pad, or work it in with a dual-action machine polisher. By hand it's direct and fuss-free; by machine you get a more even spread across bigger panels and save your arms when you do the whole car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e BrilliantWax 1 gives its best on paint that's been washed clean and decontaminated. Lay the product onto a lightly damp foam pad — a dry pad gives you patchy coverage and burns through product. Let it grab for a moment before you buff it off: with a machine, 30 seconds of dwell is enough before the second pass to buff it out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolish-and-wax tech in BrilliantWax 1 — how the cutting and sealing sides work together\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA combo polish like BrilliantWax 1 carries two working parts: abrasives and wax sealant. The abrasives are fine enough to mechanically take off surface dullness and micro-scratches in the clear coat without digging deep into the paint. Once you've buffed it off, the wax stays behind as a thin, protective film that deepens the gloss and shields the paint from water, dust and light dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe real difference from a plain polish is the finishing stage: after a straight polish the paint is bare and unprotected — a separate sealant has to follow before the car sees weather or damp. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-politur-wachsversiegelung\"\u003eXTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/a\u003e folds that step into the same pass. That's no compromise on sealing quality, as long as you keep the intervals moderate and aren't after a high-performance sealant with a long lifespan.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWax-based sealants have the upside of going on and buffing off very easily, throwing a warm, natural gloss and playing nicely with practically every paint and colour. Synthetic waxes, like the ones in BrilliantWax 1, marry the classic strengths of natural wax with better heat resistance and a more even film. The result is a surface that shimmers with a silky sheen, beads water reliably and holds onto dust and light dirt far less — all things that make the next wash easier and keep the paint in better shape between care intervals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe wax in BrilliantWax 1 is built for short to medium lifespans. Depending on exposure, how the car is used and the weather, the protection holds for several weeks to a few months — longer on garaged or lightly driven cars. For owners who treat their car regularly — say every quarter — with BrilliantWax 1, protection keeps building up and keeps the paint in good shape over the long haul.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important technical point is that it's silicone-free. For vehicles headed for a respray or bodywork, it matters not to use silicone-based care products that hurt paint adhesion during later work. Check the product data sheet if you're using BrilliantWax 1 ahead of a planned respray.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe sweet spot for applying it is between 10 and 30 degrees Celsius. Below 10 the product thickens up, which makes buffing harder; above 30 the wax dries too fast and can leave stubborn streaks. If you're polishing on hot summer days, move the car into the shade first and make sure the surface is cool. Polishing in the garage with the doors shut, or early in the morning before the day heats up, gives you repeatably better, more even results than working in the midday sun.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing BrilliantWax 1 — step-by-step workflow for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA thorough wash is a must before polishing: loose grit on the paint acts as an abrasive under the pad and puts scratches in rather than taking them out. After washing you can optionally clay or run an iron remover to clear the surface of embedded contamination that would stop you getting a clean finish. That prep is the difference between a good result and a great one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the winter season especially, a proper decontamination is worth it: brake dust, road salt and tar spots sit deep in the paint and won't come out with a wash alone. An iron remover dissolves metallic fallout chemically, a clay treatment pulls out embedded particles mechanically. Only on a surface prepped like this does BrilliantWax 1 give its full cut — the abrasives bite evenly with no embedded grit to cause scratches, and the wax keys cleanly onto the freshly polished clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePut BrilliantWax 1 on in small amounts onto a polishing pad or applicator sponge. Work a limited area — one panel at a time — until the product has flashed off slightly and can be buffed. You'll learn the right amount: too much makes buffing hard and wastes product with no extra effect; too little dries too fast and can leave smeary residue. As a rule of thumb, a hazelnut-sized blob on the pad is enough for a single panel like a bonnet or driver's door. Dose sparingly and you save product while getting better results, because the pad spreads it more evenly across the surface without oversaturating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you buff, check the paint against the light: an even, streak-free surface with no product residue is the goal. Turn your cloths regularly so you're always buffing with a fresh face. Medium-pile microfibre cloths work best for buffing polish and wax products, since they lift residue well without leaving scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor machine work a dual-action polisher with an 8 to 15 mm throw is the way to go. For the polishing stage a medium foam pad suits; to buff off, switch to a soft finishing pad or a microfibre pad. Keep the speed moderate while laying the product down — too high and the heat scorches the wax before you buff it. When buffing you can bump the speed up a touch to lift the last of the residue and finish the gloss. That way you can work bigger cars panel by panel efficiently, without the first areas drying too hard in the meantime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits and where it doesn't — the paint conditions BrilliantWax 1 suits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBrilliantWax 1 is built for paint that needs light care: fine micro-scratches from everyday driving, light oxidation or a drop in gloss from the weather — the product clears those effectively. For deep scratches that reach into the base coat, or heavily oxidised paint with pronounced hazing, BrilliantWax 1 doesn't have the cut — that's where heavier polishes from the PROFILINE range or dedicated compounds come in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe rule of thumb for judging whether BrilliantWax 1 is enough: run your fingernail over a scratch — if it doesn't catch, the scratch is only in the clear coat, and those are exactly the ones a mild maintenance polish like BrilliantWax 1 can clear. If your nail catches, the scratch runs deeper and you'd need a stronger compound or even paint touch-up work. This simple check saves time and avoids stripping paint needlessly with too-aggressive products on scratches a mild polish won't shift anyway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor as-new cars or freshly corrected paint, BrilliantWax 1 is the ideal maintenance polish: used regularly it keeps the gloss high and stops deeper oxidation layers forming that would later need more aggressive products to fix. The prevention principle — regular gentle care instead of rare heavy correction — spares the clear coat over the long run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want to keep your paint in top shape for good, a clear care calendar pays off: spring and autumn are the classic times for a polish with BrilliantWax 1. In spring you clear the leftovers of winter — salt, fine dust, the first pollen — and protect the paint for the UV-heavy summer. In autumn you prep the surface for the punishing winter, when road salt and cold ask a lot of the paint. Add a light refresher polish in summer and you get a continuous protection cycle that keeps the car's original gloss for many years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn dark and black paint, polish residue and streaks show up especially well. If you're polishing dark paint with BrilliantWax 1, take extra care buffing off and ideally work in good light or with a detailing lamp. The final check against the light shows whether every trace of product is gone and the surface gleams evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePlastic trim, rubber seals and black plastic strips around doors and windows soak up wax products easily and are left with a whitish film that lodges stubbornly in the pores. It's worth taping these areas off, or wiping them straight after with a clean, dry cloth before the wax sinks in. BrilliantWax 1 must not be used on matte paint or wraps, since the abrasives would brighten the matte finish and change the look for good.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBrilliantWax 1 compared — when it's the right pick and when it isn't\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX XTREME line-up, BrilliantWax 1 sits as a maintenance polish with a mild cut and built-in wax sealant — the number 1 of this polishing series stands for the lightest cut and the finest finish. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-2-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 2\u003c\/a\u003e offers more cut for more worn or dulled paint; the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eXTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e is the most aggressive version for deeper scratches and heavy oxidation. BrilliantWax 1 is the finishing product of the series — it cuts the least and leaves the most intense gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs an alternative with a different protection approach, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/a\u003e gives you a ceramic sealant instead of a wax one. Ceramic lasts longer and offers more protection against chemical attack; BrilliantWax 1 is easier to use and cheaper to buy. If you want maximum protection from a 2-in-1 product, go for the Ceramic Polish; if you prefer regular, fuss-free care, BrilliantWax 1 serves you better.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor owners who've never worked with combo polishes, BrilliantWax 1 is an ideal start: it's very forgiving on application and timing, buffs off easily, and gives a result that's repeatably good even for beginners. If you're happy after your first successful go and want more protection or lifespan, your next step can be the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" or a separate ceramic sealant over the prepped surface. So BrilliantWax 1 isn't just an end product but a sensible entry point into a more structured detailing routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the XTREME BrilliantWax 1 is the best choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME BrilliantWax 1\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal care product for owners who want to polish their paint at regular intervals and seal it at the same time — without buying and using two separate products. For the yearly or twice-yearly maintenance polish on newer cars with no deeper scratches, it's the most efficient product in the SONAX XTREME line. The price on the 500 ml tin is pitched so the product is economical for private users too: one 500 ml tin covers several full car treatments, so the cost per use stays low. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 stocks BrilliantWax 1 and is glad to advise on the right products for your paint's condition.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49345341456719,"sku":"D1-SNX-201200","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantwax-1-wachsversiegelung_500ml.png?v=1721579274"},{"product_id":"sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur","title":"XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePaint correction and ceramic protection in a single pass — with SONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can an all-in-one polish with ceramic technology do? It corrects light paint defects like swirls and holograms and, at the same time, leaves a hydrophobic Si-Carbon protective layer behind — with no separate sealing step.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you detail cars, you know the effort a classic three-stage workflow takes: polishing for the correction, finishing for the gloss, sealing for the protection. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e rolls those steps into one: it corrects light to medium paint defects, brings up a high gloss once you buff off the residue, and leaves behind a Si-Carbon-based protective layer with a hydrostatic effect. The result is a compact workflow that's the right call for regular car care and vehicles in good to normal condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThree effects in one step: correction, gloss, protection.\u003c\/strong\u003e The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" carries abrasives for the paint correction plus Si-Carbon compounds for the ceramic protection. As you polish, swirls and fine scratches are cut away; as you buff off the residue, the formula leaves a protective layer that makes water bead off and shields the paint from fresh dirt.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks by hand and by machine.\u003c\/strong\u003e You can lay the product down by hand with an applicator sponge or with a DA orbital. For experienced users on a DA orbital the result is more even and more efficient; for occasional users without a machine, hand application is an accessible alternative.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSi-Carbon technology for a lasting hydrophobic effect.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Si-Carbon compounds in the formula are the same technology SONAX uses across the XTREME Ceramic range. Once dry, they form a thin, even protective layer on the clear coat that repels water and light dirt and keeps the car cleaner for longer.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Work the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" in with a DA orbital on a medium-soft to soft pad. Since the product holds both abrasives and ceramic binders, too high a machine speed works against you — the ceramic particles set unevenly when they overheat. Recommended speed: 3,500–4,500 rpm. After the polishing pass, let the product haze over briefly (finger test: a slightly cloudy film that feels dry to the touch) before you buff it off with a clean microfibre — that's when the protective layer shows its full effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSi-Carbon technology in the all-in-one polish — how correction and protection work at the same time\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eClassic wax polishes had never fully cracked the challenge of combining abrasives and protective waxes in one formula — either the cut suffered or the protection did. Modern all-in-one products with ceramic technology rely on graded particle sizes and new binders that allow a sequential effect: first the abrasives correct, then the ceramic binders lay down a protective layer as the product dries. This phase separation within the formula is the core difference from older AIO products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe basic principle of an all-in-one polish is combining two requirements that are actually opposites: abrasives for the cut and protective agents for the seal. The technological balance between the two components decides how well an AIO product works day-to-day. Too many abrasives disrupt the protective layer forming; too much protective agent lowers the cut and the correction. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e uses a tuned abrasive load for light to medium corrections, combined with Si-Carbon compounds that settle onto the clear coat as a thin protective layer while the product dries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSi-Carbon technology is the umbrella term for organic silicon-based compounds that deliver protection similar to pure ceramic coatings but are easier to lay down. They show hydrophobic behaviour — water beads off rather than sheeting — and form a barrier against light dirt like road dust, bird droppings and insect residue, which then come off more easily at the next wash. The durability of such a Si-Carbon layer from an AIO product runs to several months depending on care intensity and environmental load — less lasting than a dedicated ceramic coating, but a clear gain in protection over a plain polish with no sealing component.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasives in the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" are calibrated to cut swirls, fine holograms and light-reflected micro-scratches on normal clear coat without biting into deeper layers of the clear coat. This isn't an aggressive cutting product — for deep scratches, oxidation or badly damaged paint you need a dedicated correction product. The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the tool for what's called \"maintenance correction\" — the regular light refresh that keeps a car in good paint condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" — step by step, by hand and by machine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore an all-in-one polish can reach its full potential, the paint has to start out clean. Plenty of people skip the decontamination stage and then find the polishing result is patchy or the correction they expected just isn't there. Iron particles, tar spots and bonded contamination form a layer on the paint that loads up the pad and gums up the abrasives in the product. A careful decontamination step is the basic requirement for a good AIO result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe paint should be thoroughly washed, decontaminated and dry before you start. Dirt, fallout or embedded particles on the surface would act like grit and cause uncontrolled cutting. A pre-treatment with an iron remover and, if needed, a clay bar brings the surface into ideal starting condition. Once it's dry and clean, you can start applying.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBy hand: a little product on a soft applicator sponge — a pea-sized amount for an A4-sized area is enough. Work it in with circular motions and medium pressure until it's spread evenly. By machine with a DA orbital: spread the product across the pad, lay it out on the panel at low speed, then bring the speed up to 3,500–4,500 rpm and work in overlapping passes. Two or three passes give the cut time to work; then drop the speed and do a final spreading pass. Let the product haze on the panel briefly (finger test), then wipe off with a clean, soft microfibre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter a full panel pass — spread, polish, let it haze, wipe off — it pays to check the surface under a detailing light or in direct sunlight. Any spots left with holograms or product residue can be reworked right away. Catching weak spots early matters especially with an AIO product, because the dried protective agent is harder to correct once it's fully cured (24–48 hours).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important note on quantity: all-in-one products with a protective-crystal content tend to leave a streaky pattern when you apply too much, and it's hard to wipe off completely. Less product and several thin coats give a better result than one thick application. If you still feel resistance when wiping off, the product hasn't dried all the way through — wait a moment, then polish again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAll-in-one results day-to-day — gloss, protection and limits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter applying the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\", a dark paint colour shows the effect clearly: swirls and holograms are visibly reduced or gone, and the paint reflects more evenly and deeper. At the same time you can see a clear jump in hydrophobicity — water beads off in tight droplets, rainwater runs off the slope of the roof without smearing. This water-beading effect is an instant, visually measurable sign that the Si-Carbon layer is working.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common question is about use on dark vs. light paint colours. The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" suits every colour, but the correction effect shows up most clearly on dark colours (black, dark blue, dark grey), because swirls and holograms reflect more strongly on those surfaces. On light colours like white or silver the protection is just as present, but the visual improvement after polishing is less dramatic. That doesn't mean light-coloured cars don't benefit — the protection and the improved gloss are measurable on every colour.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe product's limits sit clearly with the degree of paint damage: the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is not a deep-correction product. Scratches you can feel with a fingernail, deep holograms after rotary polishing or pronounced oxidation go beyond the capacity of an AIO product. Here a two-stage workflow of correction (with a cutting product) and protection (with a dedicated sealant or the ceramic polish as a second step) is the right approach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature during application affects how the protective layer forms. Ideal is working in the garage or in the shade at temperatures between 15 and 25 °C. In direct sunlight the product dries too fast, before the Si-Carbon compounds can settle evenly — the result is streaks. If you don't have a garage, park the car in the shade for at least 30 minutes before applying and wait until the surface has cooled down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe durability of the protective layer from the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" depends on how the car is used, how often it's cared for and environmental load. Under normal conditions — regular hand washing, the odd bit of rain, no aggressive cleaning with alkaline shampoos — the layer typically holds for three to six months. If you're after longer durability and stronger protection, you can lay a coat of SONAX Ceramic coating over the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" — the AIO handles the correction, the coating the lasting protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCompared with other polishes — when all-in-one is enough and when it isn't\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a head-to-head with specialised polishes like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP \"03-06\"\u003c\/a\u003e the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the more accessible product: the NP \"03-06\" is a pure finishing polish with no protective content that brings out maximum gloss on pro orbitals or rotary machines — but leaves no seal behind. The Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is weaker on correction but delivers a complete result in one step. For professional detailing jobs where correction, finishing and sealing are done separately, the NP \"03-06\" is the stronger choice. For regular car care and maintenance polishing, the AIO is the more efficient solution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-polish-wax-3-politur\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Polish+Wax 3\u003c\/a\u003e the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" differs through its modern ceramic-protection content instead of a classic wax component. Wax-based polishes give a warm paint glow with good water repellency, but they're more temperature-sensitive and less chemical-resistant than Si-Carbon layers. If you prefer up-to-date ceramic protection over a carnauba finish, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the better fit. If you love a deep, warm carnauba glow, go for the Polish+Wax line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you wash the car regularly with a coating-friendly shampoo — say the SONAX XTREME Ceramic ActiveShampoo — you extend the life of the Si-Carbon layer considerably. Alkaline cleaners or aggressive wheel cleaners that get onto the paint can break down the layer's hydrophobicity early. The combination of Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" and Ceramic ActiveShampoo is a care cycle tuned to work together.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important difference from classic single-step polishes with no protective content is how dirt behaves after application. On cars with ceramic or Si-Carbon protection, dirt sticks less and comes off more easily at the next wash. That cuts the wash pressure and the friction on the paint, which indirectly lowers the swirls building up for the next polishing step. So the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" sets up a positive spiral: correction plus protection, fewer new scratches, less effort next time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor users who already have a dedicated ceramic coating on the car, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" works as a refresh polish over the life of the protective layer. The abrasives are mild enough not to strip the coating layer entirely, while the Si-Carbon components can regenerate the hydrophobicity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is the right choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal product for car owners who want to keep a good daily driver in top condition regularly, without running a multi-stage detailing workflow. If you polish twice a year, you benefit from a product that reduces swirls, lifts gloss and builds a protective layer in one pass. For professional detailers the AIO offers a practical use case at vehicle intake: lightly damaged new cars or used cars in good condition can be prepped quickly with the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" before a ceramic coating goes on as the protective layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Cut+Finish\u003c\/a\u003e comparison shows the positioning too: Cut+Finish is the professional version with more cut, higher concentration and PROFILINE quality standards — for businesses working through many cars a day with different paint conditions. The XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" is built for the demanding private user and the occasional pro job, looking for a complete result in one step. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 keeps the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" in the range permanently and recommends it as the entry point into the Ceramic care line. If you're unsure whether the AIO is enough for your car or whether you need a two-stage workflow with separate correction and sealing, you can get advice from Detailing1 — based on the paint condition and the protection you want, there's always a fitting product combination. A practical starting point is the fingernail test: if the nail slides over a scratch without catching, the Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" can correct it. If the nail catches, you need a dedicated cutting product. This simple rule helps you pick the right product for each car without a laborious light inspection. Regular care with the XTREME Ceramic Polish \"All-in-One\" every two to four months keeps a well-kept car in a condition close to professional detailing — with minimal time and a product that needs no separate sealing step.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":49345418592591,"sku":"D1-SNX-247200","price":18.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-polish-all-in-one-politur_500ml.png?v=1721579808"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur","title":"PROFILINE MetalPolish Metal Polish (Medium-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBringing tarnished metal back to a mirror shine — with the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish do? This medium-cut metal polish takes tarnish, oxidation, light rust and dullness off aluminium, brass, chrome and stainless steel — and brings metal surfaces back to a near-mirror shine.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolished metal loses its shine over time — oxygen, moisture, UV and airborne acids leave tarnish, oxide layers and that typical dull haze plain cleaning won't shift. That's where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in: a high-gloss polish with a medium cut that uses quality abrasive minerals to take tarnish and oxide layers down gently and expose the mirror-bright surface underneath. The formula runs on every common metal — aluminium, brass, chrome, stainless steel — and does it without harsh acids or alkalis, which can leave corrosion damage on sensitive metal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium cut for a wide working range.\u003c\/strong\u003e The medium-cut lets you polish quickly even on heavily tarnished or dull metal, without taking off too much or damaging more delicate surfaces. For most jobs — exhaust tips, polished aluminium rim beds, chrome trim, stainless steel panels — the medium cut is the right starting point: visible results without pulling off material you don't need to lose.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks on every common metal surface.\u003c\/strong\u003e Aluminium, brass, chrome, stainless steel, copper — the polish runs on all of them with no compatibility headaches. It has proven itself on motorcycle parts, exhaust systems, wheels, boat fittings and polished-metal kitchenware, wherever you need both cleaning power and a proper high-gloss result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-gloss finish straight out of the tube.\u003c\/strong\u003e After polishing you get a near-mirror high-gloss finish that needs no separate follow-up. That saves you a step compared with two-stage systems, where you cut first and then have to come back with a pure finisher — with the PROFILINE MetalPolish the cutting and finishing phases are rolled into one pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results, clean and dry the metal properly before you polish — dirt particles sitting on the surface cut deeper scratches than the abrasive in the polish ever does. Lay the MetalPolish onto a clean, soft cotton cloth or polishing pad and work in small sections with round, overlapping passes. Don't go too thin — the paste should stay visible on the surface until it sets up and goes slightly cloudy. Then buff it off with a clean cloth and check what you've got. Heavily tarnished areas may need a second pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMedium-cut metal polish — how the medium cut actually works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA metal polish works through controlled micro-abrasion: fine abrasive grains in the paste take down the top layer of oxidation, tarnish and micro-scratches while smoothing the metal underneath. The finer the grain, the higher the gloss you can reach, but the longer the working time on badly damaged surfaces. The medium cut of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is a deliberate compromise: strong enough to pull off clear tarnish and moderate oxide layers in one pass, fine enough to lay down a high-gloss finish right away, with no separate finishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive minerals in the formula are picked to work gently on metal and not to remove excessive material. That matters most on thinly plated chrome or coated aluminium: an abrasive that is too aggressive can work straight through the protective layer and expose the base material underneath, which speeds up corrosion. The medium abrasion of the MetalPolish keeps that risk at a controlled level and is matched to the typical thickness of chrome and aluminium plating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is an important conceptual difference to paint polishes like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e: paint polishes are formulated for organic polymer layers (clear coat), metal polishes for inorganic metal surfaces. The abrasive grains are chosen differently, and the carrier paste is matched to how metal grips and conducts heat. These products aren't interchangeable — a paint polish on metal won't give you optimal results, and a metal polish on clear coat can leave scratches depending on how hard the abrasive is. So use the MetalPolish only on bare, unpainted metal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter polishing — once the product you laid down has hazed over and been buffed off with the cloth — the MetalPolish leaves no annoying oily film or residue. The metal comes out fresh, bright and grippy. An optional follow-up seal with a metal protectant or a wax film stretches out how long it takes to tarnish again, and it is well worth it on exterior chrome trim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing metal polish properly — step by step for maximum shine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e works by hand as well as on a rotary machine. By hand: put a hazelnut-sized blob of polish onto a clean cotton cloth, a polishing towel or a soft polishing block. Spread it over the metal in circles or straight lines — not too fast, with even pressure, in small sections of about 20×20 cm. Let the polish sit until it has dried slightly and looks milky-cloudy (typically 30–60 seconds at room temperature), then buff it off with a clean, dry cotton cloth. The result shows immediately: the cloudy residue holds the dissolved oxide and the dirt you have just taken off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn a machine (rotary or dual action): pick a pad that suits your machine — for the MetalPolish a medium-firm polishing pad or a cotton polishing disc does the job. Keep the speed low (rotary: about 1000–1500 rpm, DA: setting 3–4) and move evenly across the surface. Machine polishing on metal saves a lot of time and the mechanical pressure gives you more even results than hand polishing, but it takes a bit more practice to avoid overheating edges and corners. After the machine pass, buff off the same way you would by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHeavily tarnished or deeply oxidised surfaces may need a second pass. Important: after each pass, check with a clean cloth whether you have hit the result you want before you set up more polishing rounds — over-polishing takes off material for nothing without improving the finish any further.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMetal polish applications — where the MetalPolish hits hardest\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe MetalPolish shows its strength anywhere polished metal has gone dull and tired from the weather. On the car: chrome trim, aluminium wheel lips, stainless steel sills, exhaust tips and systems (always work on cold parts!), motorcycle headers, aluminium engine covers and motorsport parts in polished aluminium or titanium. The results are most striking on exhaust systems, which develop the typical tarnish colours under heat — blue, golden brown, purple. In many cases a metal polish takes them off completely or nearly so and gives the exhaust its original metal finish back. On titanium components (racing, high-performance exhausts) the tarnish colours often count as a feature — so think it through before you polish and decide whether you really want the original finish or whether the colours should stay on purpose.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith alloy wheels you need to make one important distinction: bare, uncoated aluminium wheels (rare, but common in the classic-car and motorsport world) can be worked directly with metal polish. Standard new and used car wheels, on the other hand, carry a clear coat or are anodised — keep metal polish off those, because the abrasion attacks the clear coat. The right approach on painted wheels is a paint polish, not a metal polish. If in doubt: test a tiny patch somewhere out of sight before you take on the whole wheel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAway from the car the MetalPolish is just as capable: boat fittings and propellers in brass or stainless steel, stainless railings and handrails, polished brass fittings, historic pieces in silver or bronze, kitchenware in polished stainless steel. Where it runs out of road is painted or anodised metal — those protective layers shouldn't be mechanically polished. Anodised alloy wheels or powder-coated parts are therefore not suitable jobs for a metal polish, whichever product you use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMetal polish compared — PROFILINE MetalPolish vs. XTREME MetalPolish and alternatives\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere are two metal polishes in the SONAX range: the PROFILINE version and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-metalpolish-metallpolitur\"\u003eSONAX XTREME MetalPolish\u003c\/a\u003e. Both take tarnish and oxidation off metal, but they differ in pack size and positioning. The XTREME MetalPolish (150 ml tube) is aimed at hobby detailers and occasional users who prefer a handy pack size for smaller jobs and one-offs. The PROFILINE MetalPolish (250 ml) is built for regular users and businesses who polish more often and want to keep a slightly bigger amount on the shelf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn terms of content, both products use comparable abrasive minerals for the medium cut — the real difference sits less in how they work than in size and positioning: PROFILINE is the pro line for regular use, XTREME the consumer pack for home use. If you work in a business or regularly detail motorcycles, cars or boats, you grab the PROFILINE; if you polish up your wheels or your exhaust now and then, the XTREME MetalPolish serves you just as well.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor special jobs it is worth a look at the rest of the SONAX PROFILINE range: the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/a\u003e is built for glass — scratches and water spots in windscreens or rear windows — and works with cerium oxide abrasive technology on a completely different class of material than the MetalPolish. If you are putting together a full detailing kit that covers both paint and metal work, the SONAX PROFILINE range has the right specialist polish for every material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish — recommendation and who it is for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pick for anyone who polishes metal regularly and wants a reliable, proven pro product for the job. The 250 ml tube goes a long way — one full exhaust system, a whole motorcycle, several pieces of chrome trim — and its medium cut gives you maximum flexibility: from the occasional exhaust refresh to systematically working through a complete vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlongside the polish, a set of good cotton cloths or polishing applicators is worth having for even results when you work by hand. Important: don't use microfibre towels to buff bright polished metal — microfibre loops can leave fine scratches on high-gloss metal that you simply don't get with cotton. For machine polishing, cotton polishing discs or medium-soft foam pads are the right call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want a lasting protective layer after polishing that clearly slows down fresh tarnish, plan a metal-sealing step after the MetalPolish: a thin wax film, a metal protectant oil or in some cases a ceramic coating can stretch the life of that polished look from a few weeks to several months, especially on exterior parts that take the weather. It pays off most on exhaust systems you have put real work into and on motorcycle chrome, where you want the result to last as long as possible. For hobby detailers who polish the odd metal part now and then, the PROFILINE MetalPolish in the 250 ml tube will last many years — the tube goes a long way and the product keeps indefinitely if you store it properly (cool, dry, closed).\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53502874386767,"sku":"D1-SNX-02041410","price":19.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506187526479,"sku":"D1-SNX-2041410_2","price":38.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506187559247,"sku":"D1-SNX-2041410_3","price":58.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur.png?v=1730405721"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish","title":"PROFILINE NP \"03-06\" High-Gloss Polish (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFlawless high gloss as the final polishing step — SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06 do? This fine high-gloss finishing polish pulls out the last holograms and buffer trails, brings up a mirror-like clear-coat shine and gets the paint ready for sealants and ceramic coatings — perfect as the final polishing step after abrasive correction stages.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a multi-stage polishing job, the finishing polish is the real test of skill: it comes after the cutting polish and the medium correction polish, and its job is to clear out the last fine holograms, buffer trails and micro-scratches completely — leaving the clear coat with the kind of depth, clarity and reflection that sells a fresh detail. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro high-gloss finishing polish for exactly this last step: very fine cut, low haze, and a gloss that sets the paint up perfectly for sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUltra-fine cut for hologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 carries very finely milled abrasives that level the buffer trails left by cutting and medium polishes without laying down fresh scratches of their own. What you get is a paint surface with maximum reflection and minimal orange peel — the base for that mirror-deep gloss a freshly detailed car is meant to throw back at you.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBalanced viscosity for machine and hand work.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 is mixed so it runs on rotary and dual-action machines just as well as by hand on small panels. The viscosity lets it spread evenly across the pad, keeps it from slinging during machine work and stops it drying out too fast — which really matters on bigger panels, where you need to keep the working time consistent.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIdeal as a pre-coating step before sealing.\u003c\/strong\u003e A finishing polish before you seal isn't optional if maximum sealant durability and top gloss are the goal. The NP 03-06 leaves no protective film and no waxy fillers — once it's done, the clear coat is ready for the degrease step and the sealant, with no abrasive residue getting in the way of coating adhesion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 gives its best with a finishing foam pad on a dual-action machine — speed 3–4 (depending on the model), slow, overlapping passes. For the last pass, drop the speed to 2–3 to keep heat down and even the result out. Dose the polish sparingly: a small amount on the pad, spread it by working it in slowly by hand, then switch the machine on. After polishing, buff the area off with a clean microfibre and check for holograms straight away — under raking light (side light) you'll spot any leftover buffer trails most clearly. Once that check passes, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e follows as the degrease step before sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAbrasive technology: how the NP 03-06 high-gloss finishing polish clears holograms\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA finishing polish works by mechanical micro-abrasion: the finely milled abrasives in the high-gloss polish cut the clear-coat surface at micrometre level, smoothing out the grooves and scratch marks left by earlier polishing stages and creating a surface that's as flat and uniform as possible. Light hitting a flat surface bounces back evenly — that's the physics behind the so-called depth gloss and the mirror reflection you see after a successful finishing polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cut of the NP 03-06 is pitched just right for the final polishing stage: fine enough not to lay down new holograms, but still strong enough to clear out the buffer trails from the preceding medium correction polish completely. That balancing act is typical of finishing polishes — too fine a cut won't fully remove buffer trails, too coarse a cut creates holograms of its own that need another finishing pass to fix. The NP 03-06 carries the \"03-06\" in its name, which marks where it sits in the SONAX polishing range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother upside of finishing-polish technology is what detailers call \"darkening\" — on dark paint (black, dark blue, dark grey) a noticeably deeper colour comes up after the finishing polish, because the surface is so flat and clear that more light gets into the paint and reflects back. The effect is less dramatic on light colours, but still clearly there: the paint looks fresher, livelier and more even than before. On cars with black or dark paint especially, the finishing polish is the most visible step in the whole detail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the NP 03-06 right — pad, machine and technique for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe finishing polish assumes the prep is fully done: dirt, fallout and tar removed (decon step), the paint prepped with a correction polish, and the surface clean and dry. A finishing polish on an unprepped, heavily scratched surface can't clear the fine scratches completely — the step only pays off when the stages before it were done right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad choice: for machine work, finishing foam pads (soft, no cut of their own) carry the polish's fine abrasives evenly onto the surface without adding any cut. Hard foam pads or microfibre pads with their own cut aren't ideal for a pure finishing polish — the NP 03-06 is built for soft finishing pads. For hand work, use a soft, clean applicator — on small areas (headlights, small dent zones) the polish works well by hand too, but on large panels machine work is a must for an even result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTechnique: lay the polish down, spread it at the lowest speed, then run several overlapping passes across the panel at medium speed. The last pass goes at a slightly reduced speed and light pressure — this final pass levels the faint cross-marks the polishing leaves behind. Watch the dry-down: if the polish flashes off too fast (in the sun, on hot paint) it won't work properly — ideally polish in the garage or in the shade. After buffing off with microfibre, check for holograms straight away — any leftover buffer trails show up best under side-on artificial light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the NP 03-06 fits — when a finishing polish is the right step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe NP 03-06 is the final polishing step before any sealant or ceramic coating. You reach for it when there are still fine buffer trails or holograms left after the correction polish that need clearing before you seal. Typically the NP 03-06 is step 3 or 4 in a multi-stage polishing job: after the cutting polish (hard pad + cutting compound) and the correction polish (medium pad + medium polish) comes the finishing polish as the last abrasive step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn cars that don't need heavy correction (nearly new paint, or paint with very fine swirl marks only visible at an angle), the NP 03-06 can also run as the only polishing stage — a so-called \"one-step finish\". Here you pair a lightly cutting pad (combo pad) with the finishing polish to knock back light swirl marks and bring up maximum gloss in one go. That approach saves time, but it isn't enough for deeper scratches and heavier holograms — there a multi-stage process with a proper correction polish is unavoidable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn delicate cars with a thin clear coat (often older cars after several previous-owner polishes, or certain makes like Porsche and some BMW models) the finishing polish is especially valuable, because it gets by with minimal paint removal — the light cut clears only the buffer trails, without taking off more clear coat than needed. Paint-depth readings before the job help judge how many polishing passes still make sense without thinning the clear coat too far.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eNP 03-06 vs. PerfectFinish — which finishing polish for which job?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range has two finishing polishes for different demands. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\"\u003c\/a\u003e sits as the more aggressive finishing polish with a slightly higher cut — it's built especially for use after P2000 sandpaper (hence the \"up to P2000\" tag) and suits situations where a bit more cut is needed after sanding to clear the sanding marks completely. The NP 03-06, by contrast, is the finer finishing polish for the last step after the polishing correction stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn practice: if you're polishing after wet sanding (e.g. after removing a deep dent or a respray), you pick the PerfectFinish as the first polishing step and optionally the NP 03-06 as the final hologram removal. If you've worked a normal detail without sanding using a correction polish, you only need the NP 03-06 for the finish step. For detailers who want both scenarios covered day-to-day, having both polishes on hand makes sense — the PerfectFinish for sanding-heavy work, the NP 03-06 for pure high-gloss finish steps after polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn pad compatibility and machine suitability the two finishing polishes are similar — the call comes down mainly to the cut you want and the prep stage before it. For maximum flexibility in a pro setup we recommend keeping both polishes available, since the exact state of a car often only becomes clear on the lift and under correction lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06 — bottle sizes and value\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in three sizes: 250 ml for beginners and occasional use, 1 litre for regular detailers and pro detailing businesses, and 5 litres for high-throughput operations or for training sessions. The price per millilitre drops noticeably with the bigger bottle — for businesses polishing several cars a week, the 1-litre or 5-litre size is the most economical choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePer application on an average car (saloon or compact) you'll use about 15–30 ml of polish, depending on the number of passes and the pad size. The 1-litre bottle covers around 30–60 full car polishes that way — excellent value for regular use. The 250-ml bottle suits beginners who want to get to know the polish first, or special jobs on small areas (bonnet, roof, single panels after a spot repair).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a complete finish workflow we recommend: NP 03-06 (high-gloss finishing polish) → \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e (degrease\/panel wipe) → \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a ceramic coating. This three-step finishing workflow makes sure the paint glosses to the max after the detail, is fully degreased and stays protected long-term under a quality sealant — the standard for professional detailing results.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53506699362639,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53506660401487,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000","price":38.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53506660499791,"sku":"D1-SNX-2085000","price":95.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699395407,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699428175,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506660434255,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_2","price":76.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506660467023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_3","price":115.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish.png?v=1730477476"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur","title":"PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\" Finish Polish (up to P2000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove sanding marks after P2000 and bring up a deep gloss — SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish do? The \"4\/6\" finish polish pulls out sanding marks up to P2000 grit with no residue, levels the paint after wet-sanding and brings up a mirror-deep gloss — the go-to first polishing step after wet or dry sanding on paint correction and spot repairs.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn pro paint sanding and when you're chasing out deep paint damage, the jump from sandpaper to polish is the step that makes or breaks the job: wet-sanding with P1500 or P2000 takes off orange peel, deep scratches or paint runs, but it leaves the typical sanding haze (the \"holy spirit\" pattern) that has to come out completely before you seal. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro finish polish built for exactly this hand-off: cutty enough to clear P2000 sanding marks completely, fine enough to lay down a glass-clear, hologram-free gloss while it does.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt specifically for use after wet-sanding up to P2000.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cut of the PerfectFinish is dialled to the \"4\/6\" range on the SONAX scale — meaning: strong enough to level the micro-grooves left by P1500–P2000 paper, without throwing down fresh deep holograms that would force another finish step. In a lot of cases the PerfectFinish is the only polishing step you need after wet-sanding to get the surface seal-ready.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMade for machine polishing with rotary and dual-action machines.\u003c\/strong\u003e The PerfectFinish formula is tuned for the machine: even viscosity so it spreads nicely on the pad, enough working time at moderate temperatures, and a flash-off phase that makes the result easy to read. It works with rotary machines (more cut, for heavier sanding marks) as well as dual-action machines (less heat build-up, for that final finishing pass).\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLeaves clearcoat that's seal-ready straight away.\u003c\/strong\u003e Once you've buffed off the PerfectFinish the surface is free of sanding marks, holograms and polishing-oil residue — the clearcoat sits in a state that's ready for a sealant or ceramic coating right after a panel-wipe step. That straight-to-seal readiness is what separates a good finish polish from a mediocre one that leaves fine residue behind after the buff.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The PerfectFinish gives its best with a medium-hard combo pad on the rotary or a lightly abrasive foam pad on the dual-action — depends how heavy the sanding marks are. After sanding, rinse the panel with clean water and let it dry fully before you lay the polish down. Spread it at low speed first, then run several overlapping passes at medium speed. Drop the speed for the last pass to get an even, hologram-free result. After buffing, degrease with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to pull every bit of polishing oil before you seal. On very deep sanding marks (P1000 or coarser) we'd run an intermediate step with a medium-cut correction stage first, then bring in the PerfectFinish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe PerfectFinish abrasive tech — what \"up to P2000\" means in paint sanding\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"up to P2000\" label in the description of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is an important spec: it tells you up to which sandpaper grit the polish can clear the resulting sanding marks completely. P2000 paper has a very fine grit (2000 works out to a mean particle size of about 10 microns) and leaves correspondingly fine sanding marks. P1500 leaves slightly deeper grooves (mean particle size about 13 microns), P1000 deeper still (about 18 microns).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEach of these grits leaves sanding marks with a typical depth and width — and the polish has to be able to level those grooves through its abrasive particles. The PerfectFinish carries abrasives whose size and hardness are dialled so they level P2000 grooves effectively. For deeper grooves (P1000 and coarser) the PerfectFinish would need several passes or simply isn't enough — here you're better off with a cuttier correction stage that brings the grooves down to P2000 level first, then the PerfectFinish. This step principle holds for every polishing and sanding process: each stage works the grooves of the one before it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"4\/6\" rating on the SONAX scale puts the PerfectFinish as a medium-fine finish polish: cuttier than a pure high-gloss finish polish, but finer than typical correction-stage polishes. That spot makes the PerfectFinish unusually versatile: it works both as the only polishing step after fine wet-sanding and as the second-to-last step before a further high-gloss finish polish such as the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e. Which way is better depends on the result you want, the state of the car and the time you've got.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe physics behind the jump from sanding to polishing is blending: every sanding or polishing stage lays down a new, finer pattern of grooves that overlays the pattern of the stage before. When the new pattern is finer than light's refractive-index threshold, the surface reads as optically smooth. The PerfectFinish reworks the P2000 grooves with abrasives so fine that the surface micro-structures left after polishing sit below what the human eye can pick up — so the surface comes off looking glossy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing PerfectFinish right — pad choice and technique for the best result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the finish polish starts with the right pad, and that's what decides the result. For use after wet-sanding (P1500–P2000) reach for combo pads with a touch of their own cut, which back up the PerfectFinish's correction power and let you clear sanding marks in a few passes. For use as a second finish step after a correction stage, softer finish pads are the call — they level the light polishing marks left behind. Pad hardness drives the effective cut directly: a hard pad with a medium-cut polish like the PerfectFinish can land roughly the same overall as a soft pad with a more aggressive polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMachine choice: the rotary gives you more cut on sanding marks than the dual-action and is the faster option on heavy P1500 marks. The dual-action keeps heat down and is the better call on delicate paint or as a finishing step to minimise holograms. A lot of pros run the PerfectFinish as a combo: first rounds on the rotary at medium speed to clear the sanding marks, last pass on the dual-action at low speed for that hologram-free deep gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChecking the result: read your polishing work under correction light (an LED panel light or daylight at a low angle). Leftover sanding marks show up under this light as parallel line patterns, holograms as random swirl patterns. If P2000 marks are still showing after several passes with the PerfectFinish, you've either got too little pad pressure, too low a speed or the wrong pad — a common slip-up is switching to too soft a pad too early, one that doesn't level the marks enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the PerfectFinish earns its keep — paint correction, spot repair and respray\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is hard to do without across several pro jobs. Paint residue and runs after a respray: fresh paint sometimes throws runs, sags and orange-peel that you take off mechanically by sanding and polishing. Wet-sanding with P2000 levels the surface, and the PerfectFinish brings the gloss to its finished level — a standard workflow in body and paint shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDeep single scratches and stone-chip follow-up: after a spot repair (sanding out and partial respray) you have to buff the repaired patch and bring it up to the gloss level of the surrounding panel. The PerfectFinish is the right tool for that transition zone: it clears the spot-repair sanding marks and lays down a gloss that blends seamlessly into the surrounding paint. On small repair patches you can also work the PerfectFinish by hand with an applicator when the repair spot is too small for the machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGeneral paint correction on badly knocked-about cars: on cars with deep swirl marks, heavy holograms or mechanical damage you need a multi-stage process — a coarse correction stage for the main work, then the PerfectFinish for the hand-off to deep gloss. In this context the PerfectFinish replaces the separate sanding-and-finish combo once the previous stage has already brought things to P1500–P2000 level. For this broad use the 5-litre size is especially handy for shops with high polishing volume.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePerfectFinish vs. NP 03-06 — which finish polish for which job\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common question when buying a finish polish from the SONAX PROFILINE range: when PerfectFinish, when \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e? The answer is in the prep before it: the PerfectFinish \"4\/6\" is built for situations where the surface was sanded before polishing (P1500–P2000 wet-sanding) and heavier sanding marks are sitting there. The NP 03-06, on the other hand, is the finer finish polish for the last step after a correction polish — when there are no sanding marks, just light polishing marks and holograms from the previous polishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePut plainly: if a car comes in for polishing after a respray or after wet-sanding, the PerfectFinish is the first polishing step. If a car comes in for finishing after a normal cutty correction stage (polishing with no prior sanding), the NP 03-06 is the right step. For detailers who want to cover both scenarios we'd say keep both polishes on hand — the car and its prep decide which one comes out. In a two-stage combo (PerfectFinish after sanding, then NP 03-06 as the last finish) you can pull a standout result on paint that needs maximum gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners who only want to buy one finish polish: the NP 03-06 is the safer all-rounder for cars with no prior sanding. The PerfectFinish is a must on cars with prior wet-sanding — on cars with no sanding marks you can run it too, but it takes more passes than the NP 03-06 to land a hologram-free result. So the PerfectFinish earns its place on sanding-mark know-how, not on pure gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish — sizes and getting your money's worth\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1 litre and 5 litre, plus 2-pack and 3-pack sets. The 250 ml size suits beginners and occasional users, and works for sizing up the polish before a bigger order. The 1 litre is the most economical standard size for regular detailers and smaller prep shops — a litre runs to about 30–50 full car polishes. The 5 litre is aimed at body shops, paint shops and detailing shops with high polishing volume that use the polish daily and need the lowest price per litre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that run wet-sanding as a regular part of the service (paint correction, respray buffing, spot repair), the PerfectFinish is a must-have part of the polishing kit. Paired with the NP 03-06 for the final high-gloss finish, the Prepare for the panel-wipe step and a sealant, the PerfectFinish covers the full post-sanding workflow. That workflow is a pro standard in body shops and high-end detailing shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line, the SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish is the product for every situation where you need to clear sanding marks up to P2000 and bring up a deep gloss. If you regularly run wet-sand prep jobs, buff out spot repairs or bring resprays up to gloss, you need the PerfectFinish as a fixed part of your kit — it closes the gap between sandpaper and high-gloss finish polish precisely and reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53506852782415,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410","price":20.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53506852815183,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000","price":57.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53506852847951,"sku":"D1-SNX-2245000","price":177.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506852880719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410_2","price":40.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506852913487,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410_3","price":61.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506852946255,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000_2","price":114.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506852979023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000_3","price":172.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur.png?v=1730639593"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur","title":"PROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\" One-Step Polish (up to P1500)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove sanding marks and get high gloss in one step with SONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can SONAX Cut+Finish do? A one-step polish with maximum cut (5\/5) and maximum gloss (5\/5) — it pulls out sanding marks up to P1500 and lays down a high-gloss finish in a single pass, silicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional paint correction there's one situation that keeps coming back: the paint has been wet-sanded — whether to fix a defect, after a spot-repair respray, or to knock down orange peel — and now the sanding marks have to go. Normally that means two steps: a cutting compound to take down the marks, then a finishing polish for the gloss. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e rolls both steps into one product. With a cut rating of 5\/5 and a gloss rating of 5\/5, it removes sanding marks from paper up to P1500 grit and leaves a high-gloss, hologram-free surface in a single pass. For workshops and detailers who need to get from sanding to a sale-ready result fast, that's a serious time-saver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut at maximum gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e A 5\/5 for cut and a 5\/5 for finish is unique in the SONAX PROFILINE range — no other product in the line hits the top mark in both categories. The special abrasive blend breaks down progressively as you polish: it starts aggressive to take down the sanding marks, then ends with a fine break-down that builds the gloss. That behaviour is exactly why a single pass does the job where other products need two separate steps.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and workshop-ready.\u003c\/strong\u003e In a bodyshop, being silicone-free isn't optional, it's mandatory. Silicone-bearing polishes can cause craters and fish-eyes on a respray — a problem that only shows up after the paint goes on and then writes off the whole job. So Cut+Finish is deliberately formulated silicone-free and can be used right next to the spray booth with no contamination risk.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow-dust working with a long open time.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polish stays wet and workable through the whole pass without dusting or drying out. That long open time gives you the freedom to extend the pass when the paint calls for it — with no worry about polish dust settling into shut-lines and trim gaps. The wipe-off afterwards comes away in one go, no re-cleaning needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run Cut+Finish on a rotary with a medium-hard to hard foam pad (orange or white in the SONAX colour system). Start at 1200 to 1500 rpm and step up gradually to a maximum of 1800 rpm if you need it. Drop three or four pea-sized dots onto the pad, spread the polish at low speed and work in rows with about 50 percent overlap. Polish each section until the polish goes clear — that's the moment the abrasives have fully broken down and the gloss comes up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut 5\/5 and gloss 5\/5 — how Cut+Finish pulls off both in one step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe secret of \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is in the abrasive technology: the abrasive particles in the formula are built to break down progressively under pressure and heat. At the start of the pass the particles are big enough to take down the coarse sanding marks from P1500 paper — a job normally reserved for a dedicated cutting compound. As the pass goes on, the particles break into finer and finer fragments, until they're small enough to polish the surface to a high gloss without leaving fresh micro-scratches behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat progressive break-down is the reason the polish needs a full pass to show what it can do. Stop too early — say after thirty seconds instead of two minutes per section — and you stay stuck in the cutting stage: you get the coarse marks out, but no gloss. The pass is only done once the polish goes clear on the paint and the typical shine shows up. Reading that point takes a little experience, but after the first two or three panels you'll have the feel for it down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne common misconception: some users think a 5\/5 polish is more aggressive than a pure cutting compound like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX CutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/a\u003e. It's the other way around — CutMax has more cut at 6\/4 and can take down coarser defects, such as sanding marks from P1000 paper. Cut+Finish starts at P1500 and reaches the same gloss result you'd otherwise only get with an extra finishing step. If you need to sand coarser, you need CutMax as the first step — Cut+Finish is then the fast one-step solution for lighter to medium sanding work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a one-step polish properly — machine type, pad choice and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is built primarily for rotary polishers. Here's why: a rotary, with its pure rotating action, builds more heat and friction than a dual-action machine — exactly the energy the progressive abrasive break-down needs to run the full spectrum from cut to high gloss. It works on a dual-action machine too, just with reduced cut: the eccentric action builds less heat, so the particles break down slower and the pass takes longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epad choice\u003c\/strong\u003e drives the result more than anything. On a hard pad (white or orange) Cut+Finish gives you its full cut — ideal for working a panel after wet-sanding. On a medium-hard pad the cut is more moderate, enough for refreshing weathered paint without sanding first. On a soft finishing pad the polish loses too much cut and no longer reaches the performance it was built for — for pure finish polishing there are better-suited products like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish (4\/6)\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the application: drop three or four pea-sized dots of polish onto the pad, spread them at low speed over the panel and then bring it up to working speed. Work in rows with about fifty percent overlap across the whole section until the polish goes clear. A typical section — say half a bonnet — takes two to three minutes on a rotary. Wipe the polish residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED lamp: if there are still sanding marks visible, repeat the pass with a bit more pressure or a higher speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you polish large areas — bonnet, roof, side panels — getting the pressure right is the key. Hold the machine so the pad sits evenly on the surface and let the weight of the machine do the work. Extra pressure from above does raise the cut, but it also builds more heat and can cause holograms on sensitive paint — exactly what Cut+Finish is meant to avoid. If you still see defects after one pass, a second pass at the same pressure beats a single pass with too much pressure.\n\nAfter polishing, it's worth degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to strip the last of the polish residue. Under the Prepare control spray the real result shows up — without polishing oils and fillers that can visually mask defects. That step matters especially if a ceramic coating or paint protection film is going on afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRemoving sanding marks after wet-sanding — the ideal jobs for Cut+Finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the follow-up after wet-sanding with P1200 to P1500 paper. Day-to-day you'll run into that in a few scenarios:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003espot-repair follow-up\u003c\/strong\u003e in the bodyshop, blend-ins and touch-up areas get wet-sanded first to level the paint and knock down orange peel. Cut+Finish takes the sanding marks out in one pass and brings the repaired area up to the gloss level of the surrounding original paint — without a second polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003enew-car prep\u003c\/strong\u003e, plenty of vehicles come from the factory with light orange peel and transport scratches. A careful wet-sand with P1500 levels the surface, and Cut+Finish brings the gloss back. Here the silicone-free formula plays an important role: should the new car need a respray inside the warranty period, the silicone-free polish causes no problems with the repaint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003eclassic-car restoration\u003c\/strong\u003e or the recovery of badly weathered paint, Cut+Finish is enough on its own in many cases, as long as the weathering doesn't run too deep. On original stove-baked paint, which is often softer than modern water-based finishes, Cut+Finish offers enough cut to take down the oxidised layer and enough finish to bring the gloss underneath back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother scenario that comes up a lot day-to-day: \u003cstrong\u003escratch removal without sanding first.\u003c\/strong\u003e Not every scratch needs the sandpaper. Surface scratches that sit only in the clearcoat and disappear when the surface is wet can be polished out directly with Cut+Finish. The 5\/5 cut is enough to take down the damaged clearcoat layer far enough for the scratch to disappear — and the 5\/5 gloss makes sure the spot doesn't end up looking duller than the surrounding paint afterwards. For this job a medium-hard pad beats the hard pad, so you keep the cut more controlled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere Cut+Finish hits its limits: on sanding marks from P1000 and coarser it doesn't have the cut to take them out fully in one pass. Here CutMax (6\/4) is the better choice as a first step, followed by a finish with PerfectFinish or the NP 03-06. Cut+Finish is no replacement for a dedicated cutting compound on heavy defect removal — it's the one-step solution for the P1200 to P1500 range, where it plays its strength in full. On extremely hard ceramic clearcoats too, like the ones some German premium makers use, Cut+Finish can need more passes than on softer Japanese or Korean paint systems — the abrasives break down slower on the hard substrate, and the polishing process takes correspondingly longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne-step polish comparison — Cut+Finish vs. CutMax vs. PerfectFinish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range, Cut+Finish, CutMax and PerfectFinish form a logical gradient that covers different needs:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pure cutting compound — maximum cut (6\/5), moderate gloss (4\/5). It comes out when coarse defects like P1000 sanding marks, deep scratches or heavy weathering have to be taken down. After CutMax a finishing step is nearly always needed, because the gloss result alone isn't enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePerfectFinish (4\/6)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the counterpart: moderate cut (4\/5), maximum gloss (6\/5). It's built for the finishing step after a cutting compound and creates the last bit of high gloss needed for concours results and showroom quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits right in the middle and is the all-rounder: it manages the cut of a medium cutting compound and the gloss of a good finishing polish in a single pass. The upside is obvious — time saved, fewer pad changes, less polish residue. The downside: if you have to push to the extremes — heaviest defect removal or that absolute last bit of high gloss — you're better served by the two-step approach of CutMax and PerfectFinish. For an estimated seventy percent of the day-to-day polishing work in workshop and detailing, Cut+Finish is plenty as the only polish you need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst polishes from other makers, Cut+Finish positions itself as the workshop-focused solution: the silicone-free formula, the low-dust working and the long open time are properties that make the difference in daily workshop use. Hobby detailers who polish once a year notice these upsides less — for them what counts above all is the end result. In a workshop polishing ten to fifteen vehicles a week, though, these upsides add up to a tangible efficiency gain: less cleanup thanks to no dust, no contamination risk thanks to being silicone-free, less wasted product thanks to the controlled consistency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a one-step polish — bottle sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. For getting started or the occasional job on your own car, the 250 ml bottle is enough — that polishes a whole vehicle and leaves you a reserve for touch-ups. For workshops and professional detailers polishing every day, the 1000 ml bottle is the more economical pick: the price per litre drops noticeably and you reorder less often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the optimal workflow we recommend the combination: Cut+Finish as the main polish, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for result checking and degreasing, and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e as the final sealant. This trio covers the whole process from defect correction to long-term protection — in three steps instead of the five or six a multi-stage process with separate cutting and finishing polishes would need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith several vehicles a day a further upside of Cut+Finish shows up: you only need one product and one set of pads, instead of switching between cutting and finishing polish. That cuts not just the setup time but also the risk of mix-ups — in a workshop where several people polish, a simple one-product system is less error-prone than a three-stage process with different polishes and pad combinations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical note on storage: Cut+Finish can separate slightly when it stands for a while — the abrasives settle at the bottom. Shake the bottle well before every use until the consistency is evenly creamy. Store the product frost-free and sealed, and it keeps its full performance over the whole shelf life. Frozen polish loses its homogeneous consistency and won't work evenly anymore even after it thaws.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53519485403471,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410","price":21.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53519485436239,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000","price":63.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53519485501775,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410_2","price":42.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53519485534543,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410_3","price":64.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519485567311,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000_2","price":126.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519485600079,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000_3","price":190.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur.png?v=1730642087"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE UltimateCut \"6+\/3\" Cutting Compound (up to P1000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClearing deep scratches and P1000 sanding marks the professional way — SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut do? The strongest cutting compound in the PROFILINE polish range takes out deep scratches, heavy swirl marks and sanding marks down to P1000 grit — for serious paint correction before you finish-polish.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDeep isolated scratches, swirl marks all over the panel after years of neglect, paint runs after a respray or sanding marks from P800–P1000 paper: these are too much for a normal correction polish. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e is the answer to those extremes: the strongest cutting polish in the PROFILINE range, rated „6+\/3\" — maximum abrasiveness for maximum correction, built for professional work on badly damaged paint where milder products give up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cutting power for the heaviest paint correction.\u003c\/strong\u003e Rated „6+\/3\", the UltimateCut is the most abrasive product in the SONAX PROFILINE polish line. The coarse abrasive particles can level P1000 sanding marks completely in a few machine passes — a job that milder polishes like the PerfectFinish or the OS polishes would need far more passes for, or fail at entirely. That cutting power brings your working time on badly damaged paint right down.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDesigned for rotary polishers and fast dual-action polishers.\u003c\/strong\u003e The UltimateCut is built for heavy-duty machine work — with rotary polishers (DA polisher) and fast dual-action polishers with a big throw. By hand it's barely effective at this cut level; you need the mechanical energy of the machine to fully activate the coarse abrasives and get an even correction. Heavy-duty work is what it's for.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSlots into the multi-stage PROFILINE polishing process.\u003c\/strong\u003e The UltimateCut is designed as step one in a multi-stage polishing process: after the UltimateCut step (maximum correction) you typically go to a medium correction stage (e.g. FS 05-04) and then a finishing stage (PerfectFinish or NP 03-06). That staged process makes sure any polishing marks left after the most aggressive step are fully removed by the following stages before you seal the surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Only reach for the UltimateCut where the damage really calls for it — too much cut on thin paint pulls off more material than you need and puts the clear coat at risk. Take paint thickness readings before you start, so you've got enough material for the full multi-stage job. Start with a hard, abrasive pad (wool pad or hard foam) on the rotary at medium speed (3–4). After the UltimateCut step, check the panel for leftover polishing marks and carry on with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e as the next stage. For the final high-gloss finish, follow up with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e. Swap the pad between stages — you don't want abrasives from different stages mixing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUltimateCut abrasive tech — what \"6+\/3\" and \"up to P1000\" mean in the polishing process\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe „6+\/3\" and „up to P1000\" labels in the spec sheet of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e tell you a lot about where it sits and what it's for. „6+\/3\" describes its abrasive position in the SONAX polish hierarchy: higher numbers mean more aggressive cut. With „6+\/3\" the UltimateCut sits at the top end of that scale — the first three digits describe the cutting power in use, and the format is a specific Sonax in-house classification method.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe „up to P1000\" figure is the spec that matters most day to day: it tells you the UltimateCut can fully level the sanding marks left by P1000 paper. P1000 is a medium-coarse grit (particle size about 18 microns) that's typically the first grit you reach for when wet-sanding out paint runs, orange peel after a respray or deep scratches. Marks that deep are too much for fine correction polishes (NP 03-06, PerfectFinish) — they need the cut of the UltimateCut to bring them down to a level the following stages can work with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasives in the UltimateCut have a controlled particle size that delivers the heavy correction without cutting uncontrolled deep scratches of its own. Modern compounds often use abrasives that break down into smaller particles as you work them — this „diminishing abrasive\" effect means the polish is very aggressive at the start (coarse particles) and gets milder towards the end of the pass (broken-down, smaller particles). That reduces the depth of the polishing marks left behind and makes the next stage easier. The UltimateCut formula uses that principle to leave a surface after the correction step that you can take on with a medium-cut polish or straight to the PerfectFinish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe lubrication of the UltimateCut formula plays a decisive supporting role: a cutting compound doesn't just have to be abrasive, it has to feed the pad enough lube so the machine's mechanical energy turns into abrasion under control instead of heat. Dry formulas cut well for a moment but overheat fast, and with too little lube they can leave dry-buff marks on the paint. The UltimateCut is balanced between cut and lubrication so it holds up over long passes at full tilt. On big vehicles (SUVs, vans, heavy saloons) that balance matters even more, because the whole job takes considerably longer than on a compact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing to watch with high-cut compounds like the UltimateCut is heat input: heavy cut under machine work builds serious heat where the pad meets the paint. Overheated paint can burn (orange-brown discolouration), soften, or crack from thermal stress. So: rotary at a moderate speed, enough product on the pad (lubrication keeps the heat down), and check the panel temperature regularly between passes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the UltimateCut properly — machine, pad and the multi-stage process\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorking with a cutting compound starts with the machine: for maximum cut on deep scratches and P1000 sanding marks the rotary polisher (single action, SA) is first choice — it gives you more torque and more material removal than a dual-action. If you only have a DA, go for a hard foam pad or a hybrid wool pad and several intensive passes — the result is fine, just slower than with the rotary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad choice: the UltimateCut wants hard or medium-hard abrasive pads (wool pads, hybrid wool pads or hard foam). Soft finishing pads bring the abrasive performance right down and shouldn't be used with the UltimateCut. Clean the pad of old polish residue with a pad washer or a towel before you start — particles from a previous stage still sitting in the pad can put scratches in during the UltimateCut step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOrder of work: spread a small amount of UltimateCut over the pad, spread it at low speed, then run intensive overlapping passes across the panel at medium to high speed. The polish dries fairly quickly — at room temperature and normal humidity you work section by section. After the UltimateCut step: wipe the residue off completely with a microfibre towel and check the surface under correction light for leftover sanding marks. If P1000 traces are still showing, repeat the UltimateCut step. If not, move on to the next polishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the UltimateCut earns its keep — when you need maximum correction\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e comes out when milder polishes are out of their depth. Wet-sanding after a respray: after paint work in a workshop or body shop, fresh paint often shows orange peel, runs or inclusions. Those get levelled mechanically by wet-sanding with P800–P1000. The deep sanding marks that leaves are the classic job for the UltimateCut as the first polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBadly damaged older paint: cars that haven't been polished in years, showing heavy swirl marks across the panels, deep individual scratches from the wash bay or oxidation, need maximum correction to get back to a presentable level of gloss. The UltimateCut is the powerful first step there, bringing the damage down to a level that correction polishes can refine further. On badly damaged paint you often need the full combination of UltimateCut + FS 05-04 + PerfectFinish + NP 03-06.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpot repairs and blending areas: with spot resprays the repair has to be polished out and brought up to the gloss level of the surrounding paint. Depending on the grit of the paper used, the UltimateCut is needed as the first polishing step. In transition and blending areas you go gentler, so you don't take too much material off the surrounding paint that's already in good shape — here you keep the UltimateCut strictly on the repair itself, not on the blend.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCars with very thick clear coats (factory paint from the early 2000s or certain classic car resprays) will take repeated intensive work with the UltimateCut without getting into risky paint thickness territory. Modern cars with thinner clear coats (especially Asian brands and a few German manufacturers with special paints) need the abrasive energy dosed more carefully — one or two machine passes, then a thickness reading before you go on. That controlled approach isn't over-caution, it's professional standard for paint correction that lasts and doesn't compromise the car for future work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe UltimateCut in the polishing pyramid — position and combination strategies\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE polish line covers a full abrasive hierarchy for every level of damage. At the top of the cut scale sits the \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e as the cutting compound, followed by the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/a\u003e as the medium-cut correction stage. The finishing stages are the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e (after wet-sanding) and the NP 03-06 (finest high-gloss finish). That polishing pyramid lets you work any level of damage up in stages to a flawless gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers and reconditioning outfits running the full PROFILINE polish system, the decision logic is clear: scratch depth decides where you enter the pyramid. Damage deeper than P1000 → UltimateCut to start. Damage between P1500 and P2000 → PerfectFinish to start. Fine swirl marks only → NP 03-06 or OS 02-06 as a single stage. Working systematically by level of damage is professional standard: it saves time and stops you over-polishing the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with third-party cutting compounds, the UltimateCut has the advantage of system compatibility as a PROFILINE product: it's matched to the PROFILINE stages that follow and leaves a surface after the correction step that those products can take on ideally. You can mix cutting compounds from other makers with PROFILINE finishing polishes, but then the particle sizes aren't guaranteed to line up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut — sizes and what to pick\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1 litre and 5 litre, plus 2-packs and 3-packs. The 250 ml bottle suits beginners and occasional users, the 1 litre is for regular professional work, and the 5 litre is for body shops and high-throughput polishing operations. A full paint correction on one car takes about 20–50 ml of UltimateCut depending on paint condition and vehicle size — so a 1 litre bottle covers 20–50 full jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe UltimateCut belongs in the kit of every body shop and every detailer who offers paint correction after wet-sanding or heavy swirl removal as a service. It's not an everyday product for routine maintenance details, it's the specialist tool for the cases where you genuinely need maximum correction. The money you put into the UltimateCut comes back in far shorter working times on difficult paint — which feeds straight into how profitable your paint correction work is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn short, the SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut is the strongest correction tool in the PROFILINE polish range for every situation where milder polishes don't cut it. If you regularly polish out resprays, work on after P1000 wet-sanding or correct badly damaged older paint, the UltimateCut gives you the power and efficiency those demanding jobs need.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53519971909967,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410","price":23.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53519971942735,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000","price":68.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53519971975503,"sku":"D1-SNX-2395000","price":223.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53519972008271,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410_2","price":46.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53519972041039,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410_3","price":70.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519972073807,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000_2","price":136.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519972106575,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000_3","price":205.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur.png?v=1730646033"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur","title":"PROFILINE EX \"04-06\" High-Gloss Polish (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHologram-free high-gloss finish with the SONAX EX 04-06 polish for dual-action machines\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX EX 04-06 do? A finishing polish with cut level 4 and gloss level 6 — built specifically for dual-action machines, it pulls out light paint defects and lays down a hologram-free high-gloss finish in a single pass, silicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDual-action machines are the go-to for a lot of detailers because they're safer to handle than rotaries — less heat build-up, less risk of holograms, less chance of burning through the clear coat. The catch: not every polish is built for the dual-action motion. Plenty of polishes that work brilliantly on the rotary only deliver a fraction of their power on a DA, because the lower heat slows the abrasive breakdown. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e was developed specifically for this machine type: its abrasive blend breaks down reliably even at the lower friction energy of a dual-action machine, and with a cut of 4\/5 and a gloss of 6\/5 it gets you a result on the DA that's almost identical to a two-step process of cutting and finishing polish on the rotary. If you work with a dual-action machine and want to correct light to medium paint defects, the EX 04-06 is the obvious pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for the dual-action motion.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formulation of the EX 04-06 is tuned to the specific kinematics of dual-action machines. The abrasive particles break down at lower temperature and lower pressure than with classic rotary polishes — meaning you get the full power on the DA without having to lean in. That behaviour makes the EX 04-06 especially beginner-friendly: even without years of polishing experience, moderate pressure and a mid-range speed get you a professional result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The gloss level of 6\/5 — the top mark in the SONAX system — means the polish leaves a finish that's free of holograms, swirls and buffer marks. On dark paint, where every defect shows up straight away, this is the point that matters. The EX 04-06 produces a result on black or dark-blue paint that stays flawless even under direct sunlight and LED inspection light.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and bodyshop-safe.\u003c\/strong\u003e Like all SONAX PROFILINE polishes, the EX 04-06 is silicone-free. In bodyshops that polish and paint side by side, that's a must — silicone residue on neighbouring vehicles or shop surfaces can cause craters during a respray. Being silicone-free also makes the EX 04-06 a first choice for prep ahead of a ceramic coating, where an absolutely silicone-free surface gives the best bonding.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the EX 04-06 with a medium foam pad (orange in the SONAX colour system) at speed 4 to 5 on the dual-action machine. Drop three pea-sized dabs onto the pad, spread them at low speed and then work with moderate pressure in slow, overlapping passes. The key to a perfect result: slow machine movement. Move the machine about two to three centimetres per second across the surface — noticeably slower than most beginners do it by instinct. That's the only way the abrasives get enough contact time to fully cut out the defects and bring up the high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFinishing polish for dual-action machines — why the EX range is formulated differently from rotary polishes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e belongs to the EX range, which SONAX developed specifically for dual-action machines. The technical background: a dual-action machine moves the pad on a circular orbit with a simultaneous rotation — this double motion generates less friction energy per unit of area than the pure rotation of a rotary machine. Polishes built for the rotary need that higher energy to break their abrasives down fully. On a dual-action machine they only break down partway — the result is coarse leftover particles that leave micro-marring and holograms instead of bringing up gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX range solves this with an adapted particle size and binder matrix. The abrasives are smaller and break down at lower energy input — perfect for the dual-action motion. The flip side: on a rotary the abrasive breaks down too fast, and the polish loses its cut before the defects are fully removed. So the EX 04-06 is no replacement for rotary polishes like the CutMax or Cut+Finish — it's their counterpart for a different class of machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day, the difference shows up most on hard European clear coats, which are tougher to work with the dual-action machine than soft Japanese paints. On these clears the EX 04-06 gives enough working time and cut to keep performing consistently even after several polishing passes — something cheaper DA polishes often can't manage, because their formulation is spent after the first pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne practical angle: plenty of detailers own both a dual-action and a rotary machine and switch depending on the panel. On big, flat areas like the bonnet and roof the rotary is more efficient, while on edges, body lines and curved sections the dual-action machine gives you more safety margin. In that mixed workflow the EX 04-06 is the finishing product for all the dual-action sections — while a polish like the Cut+Finish or PerfectFinish handles the rotary sections. If you want to stick with a single machine and prefer the dual-action, the EX range gives you a complete system that asks for no compromise on performance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use a dual-action polish properly — speed, pressure and machine movement\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e on the dual-action machine follows a clear scheme: a medium to soft polishing pad, a mid-range speed (step 4 to 5 on most machines), moderate pressure and slow machine movement. That combination is the key to a hologram-free result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrop three pea-sized dabs of polish onto the pad and spread them at the lowest speed across the panel. Then step up to working speed and polish in slow, overlapping passes across the whole section. Slow here means: two to three centimetres per second. Most beginners move the machine too fast — the pad glides over the surface without enough time to cut the defects out. A slower movement increases the contact time per unit of area and uses the abrasive fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epressure\u003c\/strong\u003e should be moderate — just enough that the pad sits evenly on the surface. Unlike the rotary, where more pressure means more cut, the dual-action machine reacts to excess pressure in reverse: the dual-action motion gets choked, the pad spins slower, and the cut drops instead of climbing. If you notice the machine bogging down under pressure, you're leaning in too hard — back off and let the machine do the work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake: too much polish on the pad. Three pea-sized dabs are enough for a section of about fifty by fifty centimetres — more product dilutes the cut and stretches the working time without improving the result. If the polish is still sitting milky-thick on the surface after the pass, you've either laid on too much or moved the machine too fast. Cut the amount on the next section and move the machine slower — the result picks up straight away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn temperature: the dual-action machine generates less heat than a rotary, but on dark paint in summer sun the surface temperature can still get problematic. Work in a shaded spot or garage and check the temperature now and then with the back of your hand. Ideal ambient temperatures are between fifteen and twenty-five degrees Celsius at moderate humidity, to keep working conditions optimal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the polishing pass, wipe the residue off with a clean, soft microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED inspection lamp. On dark paint it's worth an extra check under direct sunlight — some holograms and swirls only show up under natural light, because the LED lamp hits at a different angle. Once you're happy with the result, comes the degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — only then do you see the actual result without polishing oils.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting light to medium paint defects — the ideal use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't built for heavy defect correction — for that there's the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut\"\u003eEX 05-05 with cut 5\/5\u003c\/a\u003e. The strength of the EX 04-06 sits in a different area: correcting light to medium defects in a single pass while producing the best possible finish at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common use case is the \u003cstrong\u003esingle-stage polish on near-new paint\u003c\/strong\u003e. Vehicles one to three years old typically show wash marring, light swirls and a general dullness in the clear coat. The EX 04-06 removes these surface defects in one pass and leaves a high gloss that sits above factory-new level. For detailers who regularly work on lease returns or young used cars, that's the typical job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother scenario: \u003cstrong\u003efinishing after a cutting stage\u003c\/strong\u003e. When the paint has first been worked with a cutting polish (the EX 05-05, say, or the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax\u003c\/a\u003e), the EX 04-06 removes the leftover micro-marring and holograms in the second step and brings the paint to a high gloss. This two-step process — cutting polish plus finishing polish — is the gold standard in professional paint correction and gets you the best results on demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX 04-06 is also ideal for \u003cstrong\u003eprep ahead of a coating\u003c\/strong\u003e. Before a ceramic coating or paint protection film goes on, the paint has to be in the best possible condition — any defect locked in under the coating stays visible for its entire service life. The EX 04-06 gives you exactly the surface a coating needs: defect-free, hologram-free and free of silicone residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne scenario that often gets underrated: \u003cstrong\u003eworking on vehicles with part-wrapped sections\u003c\/strong\u003e. When a vehicle has both painted and wrapped panels, the polish must not get onto the film — polishing residue can settle into the film texture and is hard to get out of there. The controlled way the dual-action machine works, combined with the EX 04-06, minimises the risk of splatter and lets you work precisely right up to the film edge. For these situations the dual-action machine clearly beats the rotary, because it slings off less product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDual-action polish comparison — EX 04-06 vs. EX 05-05 vs. NP 03-06\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range offers three finishing polishes to choose from, differing in cut and gloss:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e is the more aggressive sibling: cut 5\/5, gloss 5\/5. It comes in when the defects are too deep for the EX 04-06 — things like P1500 sanding marks, heavier weathering or scratches that go beyond the typical wash marring. The gloss level of 5\/5 is good, but not at the level of the EX 04-06 — for the highest finishing standards, a pass with the EX 04-06 follows the EX 05-05.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the gentlest option: cut 3\/5, gloss 6\/5. It's meant for paint that barely shows any defects and just needs that final polishing touch — after a thorough cutting stage, say, or on new cars that only need a light refresh. The lower cut also makes it the safest pick on extremely thin clear coats or historic paint, where every bit of material removal should be kept to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the all-rounder between these extremes: enough cut for typical everyday defects, maximum gloss for a professional finish. For most single-stage polishes on the dual-action machine it's the best choice — versatile enough for day-to-day work, strong enough on the finishing side for demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the EX 04-06 — bottle sizes and workflow recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. The 250 ml bottle is enough for several complete vehicle polishes — product use on the dual-action machine is moderate, because the polish works efficiently and needs few reloads. The 1000 ml bottle is the standard size for shops and keen private users who polish regularly. With the value combo you save on top of buying single — especially for detailers who run the EX 04-06 as their standard finishing polish, the stock pack pays off fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the optimal workflow on the dual-action machine we recommend: on light defects, the EX 04-06 as a single-step solution on a medium pad. On medium defects, first the EX 05-05 on a hard pad, then the EX 04-06 on a soft pad for the finish. After that, degrease with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e and, if needed, seal with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003ePolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a CeramicCoating of your choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA note on storage: the EX 04-06 tends to separate slightly when left standing for a while. Shake the bottle thoroughly before every use, until the consistency is evenly creamy. Store the product frost-free and sealed — frozen polish loses its abrasive structure and won't go on evenly after that, and should be thrown away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners stuck between the EX 04-06 and a rotary polish, the recommendation is clear: if you've got no machine-polishing experience yet, start with the dual-action machine and the EX 04-06. The combination is far more forgiving than a rotary with an aggressive cutting polish. You can learn the technique calmly, without fear of burn-throughs or holograms. The result might not quite reach what an experienced polisher gets on the rotary — but it'll be solid, safe and more than enough for the vast majority of needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520265773391,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520265806159,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000","price":37.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265871695,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265904463,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520265937231,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_2","price":74.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520265969999,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_3","price":112.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur.png?v=1730648016"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut","title":"PROFILINE EX \"05-05\" Cutting Compound (Heavy-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches on the dual-action polisher with the SONAX EX 05-05 cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX EX 05-05 do? A heavy-cut cutting compound for dual-action polishers with a cut rating of 5\/5 and a gloss rating of 5\/5 — it removes deep scratches, sanding marks up to P1500 and heavy weathering, and with the HybridwollPad it gets you results on a rotary level.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a long time, dual-action polishers were seen as the safe but weak tool — fine for finishing work, but no good for serious defect correction. Deep scratches, sanding marks and heavy weathering were the domain of the rotary, because only it built enough friction energy for the material removal you need. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e breaks with that limitation. Paired with a HybridwollPad, this cutting compound gets you results on the dual-action that used to be reserved for the rotary: sanding marks up to P1500 disappear in a single pass, deep scratches and etching are pulled out reliably, and the 5\/5 gloss rating leaves a finish that often needs no extra polishing step. For detailers who want to — or have to — work the dual-action only, because the rotary is too risky on certain paints, the EX 05-05 is the cutting compound of choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHeavy-cut on the dual-action.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a cut rating of 5\/5, the EX 05-05 is the most aggressive polish in the SONAX EX line-up. Its abrasive blend is built so it still generates enough cut even at the lower friction energy of dual-action motion, enough to remove deep scratches and sanding marks up to P1500. Paired with the HybridwollPad — a pad that combines foam and lambswool fibres — cutting power climbs noticeably again, because the wool fibres add friction that pure foam pads simply can't deliver.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh gloss at the same time.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 5\/5 gloss rating shows the EX 05-05 doesn't just cut, it polishes too. The abrasives break down progressively over the polishing pass — from coarse to fine — and leave a surface that on many paints is already the end result you wanted. When the finish demands the very best, a short pass with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/a\u003e follows, but for everyday needs the EX 05-05 often does the job as a one-step solution.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula is free of silicones and, thanks to its optimised consistency, works almost dust-free. In paint shops the silicone-free build eliminates the contamination risk, and the low-dust working saves time on the clean-up. Especially with heavy defect correction that takes several passes and a lot of polishing work, the low-dust formula makes a real difference in comfort and in how clean your work area stays.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For maximum cut on the dual-action, pair the EX 05-05 with the SONAX HybridwollPad and work at speed 5 to 6 (depending on the machine). Apply moderate pressure and guide the machine across the surface at two to three centimetres per second — clearly slower than when you're finish-polishing. The trick: let the machine do the work and use the weight of the tool as your natural down-pressure. Don't force the machine into the surface — that stalls the dual-action motion and reduces the cut instead of raising it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound for the dual-action — how the EX 05-05 gets rotary results on a DA\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe key to the performance of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e lies in the match between abrasive and pad. The abrasive particles are sized to work best at the specific friction energy of a dual-action polisher: big enough for effective cut, small enough for controlled particle break-down. On a rotary these particles would break too fast and lose their cutting power — so the EX 05-05 isn't a universal polish, it's a specialist for the dual-action motion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridwollPad amplifies this effect: the lambswool fibres create extra micro-friction on the surface that boosts material removal, while the foam core keeps the heat in check. The result: a cut on the dual-action that gets close to the level of a rotary with a medium-hard foam pad — without the rotary's risks (holograms, hot spots, burning through on edges).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX 05-05 plus HybridwollPad combo does have its limits, though: sanding marks of P1000 and coarser can't be fully removed in a single pass on the dual-action, even with this aggressive pairing. Here the rotary with a polish like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax\u003c\/a\u003e stays on top. The EX 05-05 covers the range from P1500 down to light P1200 marks — and in that range it gives you a result on the dual-action that makes switching to the rotary unnecessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor anyone who rarely uses their dual-action for heavy-cut, an important note: the performance of the EX 05-05 depends a lot on the quality of the dual-action. Cheap entry-level DAs with a short throw (8 mm) and a weak motor hit their limits fast on heavy defects. Machines with a long throw (15 to 21 mm) like the common pro models deliver far more friction energy and tap the EX 05-05's potential better. If you're planning to do heavy-cut work on the dual-action regularly, the investment in a long-throw machine pays off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the EX 05-05 the right way — pad choice, speed and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e shows its full strength paired with the HybridwollPad. For less aggressive jobs — say on near-new paint with only light scratches — a hard foam pad (orange) works too, giving slightly less cut at slightly higher gloss. On a soft finishing pad the compound loses too much cutting power — for pure finish-polishing the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/a\u003e is the better call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePut three to four pea-sized dots on the pad and spread the compound over the panel at a low speed. Step up to speed 5 to 6 and work in slow, overlapping passes across the section. A typical section — about half a fender — takes three to four minutes on the dual-action. By the end of the pass the compound should sit clear and thin on the surface — the sign that the abrasives have fully broken down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003emachine handling\u003c\/strong\u003e on the EX 05-05 differs from a finishing polish: with heavy-cut you can apply a bit more pressure than when finish-polishing, but only ever enough that the dual-action motion doesn't come to a stop. The moment you feel the machine stalling or vibrating, take the pressure off straight away. A stalling pad creates localised heat that can cause thermal damage on sensitive paints — showing up as light discolouration or dullness that even re-polishing can no longer fully correct.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you work on \u003cstrong\u003eedges and raised lines\u003c\/strong\u003e, take extra care: the clearcoat there is often only half as thick as on the flats. Drop the pressure clearly in these areas and rather run one extra pass with little pressure than a single pass with too much cut. A coating thickness gauge before you start gives you certainty about the room you've got to work with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the pass, wipe the residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check under LED light. If defects are still visible, repeat the pass on the same section. With the EX 05-05, two to three passes per panel on hard European paints are nothing unusual — on softer Japanese or Korean paints a single pass is often enough. Match your expectations to the paint type and plan in enough time, instead of giving up after one pass when the result isn't right yet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDegrease the polished surface afterwards with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to see the true result. Polishing oils can visually mask leftover defects — under Prepare it becomes clear whether all the scratches have really gone or whether another pass is needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHeavy-cut on the dual-action — typical use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main field for the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e is defect correction on paints that are too sensitive for the rotary, or where you prefer the safety of the dual-action. Day-to-day, that comes down to a few scenarios:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you're \u003cstrong\u003edetailing dark paints\u003c\/strong\u003e (black, dark blue, dark grey), the dual-action is the safer call, because it throws fewer holograms than the rotary. On these demanding colours the EX 05-05 delivers enough cut to remove scratches and swirls, and the 5\/5 gloss rating keeps the rework to a minimum. On black paint a short finishing pass with the EX 04-06 often makes sense, to pull out that last bit of deep gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003ecars with a thin clearcoat layer\u003c\/strong\u003e — measured with a coating thickness gauge — the dual-action gives you more control over material removal. The EX 05-05 removes defects efficiently, but more controlled than a rotary polish, because the dual-action motion takes off less per unit of time. That gives you the chance to check progress after every pass and stop in time, before the clearcoat gets too thin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003escratch removal in hard-to-reach spots\u003c\/strong\u003e — door-handle recesses, swage lines, transitions between panels — the compact dual-action with a small pad (75 mm or 125 mm) is a better fit than the big rotary. The EX 05-05 works on all common pad sizes and adapts flexibly to the panel geometry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more scenario that pro detailers value: \u003cstrong\u003ecorrecting transport damage and car-wash scratches\u003c\/strong\u003e on new vehicles. Plenty of new cars arrive at the dealer with fine to medium scratches — caused by film removal, transport securing or careless cleaning out on the lot. The EX 05-05 removes these defects on the safe dual-action, without putting the thin factory paint at risk. Combined with a final ceramic coating, the car ends up better protected than it was in delivery condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound comparison — EX 05-05 vs. CutMax vs. Cut+Finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe three key cutting compounds in the SONAX PROFILINE range cover different machine types and demands:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the cutting compound for the rotary — maximum cut (6\/5), moderate gloss (4\/5), optimised for the high friction energy of the rotary. It's the first choice for heavy defects from P1000 up on the rotary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eCut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the one-step solution for the rotary — same cut value as the EX 05-05, but with a high-gloss finish at the same time. It covers the range from P1500 up and combines cutting and finishing in a single pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05 (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the counterpart to the Cut+Finish for the dual-action: same performance values, but a formula optimised for the kinematics of the DA. If you own a dual-action and want to do heavy defect correction, you reach for the EX 05-05. If you've got a rotary, you take the Cut+Finish or CutMax. A universal polish that works equally well on both machine types doesn't exist — the physical demands of the two motions are too different. That's why SONAX deliberately developed separate product lines for rotary and dual-action with the PROFILINE range, rather than offering compromise products that don't show their full strength on either machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the EX 05-05 — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. For the occasional job detailing your own car, the 250 ml bottle is enough — a full defect correction uses between 50 and 100 ml depending on the size of the car and how bad the defects are. The 1000 ml bottle is the more economical option for detailing businesses and keen enthusiasts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the optimal workflow for the dual-action, the EX 05-05 is the first step (heavy-cut), followed by the EX 04-06 as the finishing step and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for degreasing and checking the result. This two-step process on the dual-action gets you results that come close to a three-step process on the rotary — at clearly lower risk of holograms and burn-through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone with both EX-series polishes on the shelf — the EX 05-05 for heavy-cut and the EX 04-06 for finish — is set up for every dual-action job. The two products complement each other perfectly: the EX 05-05 removes the heavy defects, the EX 04-06 pulls out the last bit of gloss. Together they replace a three-product system (cutting paste, cutting compound, finishing polish) of the kind that's standard with the rotary — fewer products, fewer pad changes, fewer things to get wrong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor economical use: the product consumption of the EX 05-05 on heavy-cut work runs a bit higher than on a finishing polish, because you need more passes per panel. For a full defect correction on the dual-action, count on around 80 to 120 ml per car — depending on the size of the car and how bad the defects are. The 250 ml bottle does two to three cars that way, the 1000 ml bottle eight to twelve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne tip for pad care: the HybridwollPad should be cleaned thoroughly after every car — polish residue in the wool fibres hardens and reduces cutting power on the next job. Rinse the pad out under warm water after the work and let it dry fully before you use it again. You can tell a worn-out HybridwollPad by the wool fibres being flattened and no longer springing back — that's when it's time for a new pad. Rather invest in a fresh pad than in an extra polishing pass: the cut of a new pad is noticeably higher than that of a worn one, and the result more even. Professional outfits change the HybridwollPad after five to eight cars at the latest — beyond that the wool structure is so compacted that the cut drops off noticeably and you're no longer getting the full efficiency out of the EX 05-05.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520446619983,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520446652751,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000","price":40.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520446685519,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410_2","price":34.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520446718287,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410_3","price":52.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520446751055,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000_2","price":80.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520446783823,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000_3","price":121.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut.png?v=1730649133"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" cutting compound (down to P1000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches and sanding marks with the SONAX CutMax cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX CutMax do? A cutting compound with maximum cut (6\/4) that pulls out sanding marks from P1000 grit, deep scratches and paint overspray — low-dust thanks to Low Dust Technology, dialled in for rotary machines.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen the paint is hammered badly enough that a normal polish just won't cut it anymore, the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e steps in. With a cut rating of 6 on the SONAX scale, it's the most aggressive polish in the PROFILINE range — built for jobs where you need maximum material removal: deep scratches, P1000 sanding marks, orange peel, paint fog and badly weathered paintwork. Despite that heavy cut, the CutMax works almost dust-free thanks to Low Dust Technology and leaves a gloss level of 4\/5, which in most cases only needs a quick finishing step after it. For body shops and pro detailers, the CutMax is the tool of choice when efficiency on defect removal beats everything else.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut for heavy defects.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasive blend in the CutMax is built for fast, deep cutting. It pulls out sanding marks from P1000 in a single pass — a range lighter polishes simply can't reach. Baked-on bug splatter, deep scratches and years of neglected weathering get cut away just as effectively. That cut saves real time in the bay, because you need fewer passes than with milder products.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow Dust Technology for clean work.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a lot of polishes, heavy cut also means heavy dust — a problem that settles into panel gaps, seals and across the whole workspace and needs serious cleanup. The CutMax solves that with its dedicated Low Dust formula: the compound stays on the pad and on the surface through the whole process instead of dusting off. That saves you the cleanup and keeps polishing dust out of freshly painted areas — a critical point in body shops.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGood gloss despite the heavy cut.\u003c\/strong\u003e A gloss level of 4\/5 is remarkable for a cutting compound this aggressive. Plenty of competing products with a comparable cut leave a dull, hazy finish that absolutely needs a finishing step. The CutMax gets much closer to the end result — on a lot of paints a quick pass with a finishing polish like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e is all it takes to hit showroom gloss.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the CutMax on the rotary with a hard foam pad (white) or a lambswool pad for maximum cut. Start at 1000 rpm to spread the compound out, then take it up to 1500–1800 rpm for the actual cutting. Work in rows with 50 percent overlap and lay down even, moderate pressure — the abrasives need friction, not heavy pressure. After each pass, check with an LED light whether the defects are fully gone before you move to the finishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut 6\/4 — how the CutMax can take heavy paint defects out in one pass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e hits its high cut through a mix of specially sized abrasive particles and a formula that keeps the cut steady across the whole pass. Unlike basic cutting compounds, whose cut drops off noticeably after the first thirty seconds because the abrasives break down too fast, the CutMax holds its cutting power through the entire work cycle. In practice that means: one pass of two to three minutes per section is enough to fully remove even deep sanding marks — instead of the three or four passes you'd need with a weaker polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gloss level of 4\/5 shows the CutMax isn't a pure cutting paste but a cutting compound with controlled particle breakdown. The abrasives start out aggressive and break down into finer particles over the pass, which already take care of part of the finish. The result is a surface that's noticeably smoother and glossier than after a pure cutting paste — but not yet at the level of a dedicated finishing polish. For shops that need to get to a presentable result fast after wet sanding, that in-between stage is often already enough when concours quality isn't on the table.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important difference to the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/a\u003e: the CutMax has the higher cut and comes in where the Cut+Finish doesn't pull enough material anymore — so with P1000 sanding marks, deep scratches and heavy weathering. The Cut+Finish is the one-step solution from P1500, the CutMax is the heavy hammer for everything below that. In a lot of shops both products sit side by side: the Cut+Finish for most of the day-to-day work, the CutMax for the heavy cases.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a cutting compound right — machine, pad and technique for maximum cut\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e shows its full potential on the rotary machine. The pure rotation builds more friction and heat than a dual-action machine — exactly the energy a cutting compound at this level needs to deliver maximum cut. It works on a dual-action machine too, but with a clearly reduced cut: you need more passes and more time for the same result. If you regularly tackle heavy correction, the rotary is the right investment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epad choice\u003c\/strong\u003e heavily shapes the result. For maximum cut, go for a hard foam pad (white in the SONAX colour system) or a lambswool pad. The lambswool pad gives the highest cut of all pad types but also leaves the roughest surface — ideal for the first pass on heavy defects, followed by a foam pad for the refinement. A medium pad reduces the cut and suits paints that need less correction, or sensitive areas like edges and creases, where too aggressive a cut could burn through the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor application, put three to four pea-sized dots on the pad and spread the compound across the panel at low speed. Then take it up to working speed and polish in rows with fifty percent overlap. Work in sections of around forty by forty centimetres — small enough to stay in control, big enough to make efficient progress. Listen to the machine: a steady hum tells you the pad is working cleanly on the surface. A rattle or vibration points to too much pressure or a clogged pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the cutting pass, wipe the compound residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED light. If the defects are fully gone, the finishing step follows. If marks are still showing, repeat the pass — better a second controlled pass than a single one with too much pressure that can cause holograms or heat spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common beginner mistake working with the CutMax: too much product on the pad. A cutting compound needs less product than a finishing polish, because the cut comes from the abrasives, not from the volume of paste. Three to four small dots are enough for a section of forty by forty centimetres. Too much product thins out the cutting action, drags out the pass and makes wiping harder. In pro shops, experienced polishers sometimes work with even less product — they make up for the smaller amount with precise machine control that gets the most out of the abrasive that's there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important note on \u003cstrong\u003eheat control\u003c\/strong\u003e: the rotary builds serious heat when you work with a cutting compound. On dark paints the surface temperature can climb past seventy degrees in a few seconds — a temperature that can damage the clear coat. Check the temperature regularly by running the back of your hand over the surface. When it gets uncomfortably warm, let the section cool briefly before you carry on. On edges, creases and raised lines the heat build-up is especially critical, because the paint layer there is thinner than on flat panels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting heavy paint defects — the ideal use cases for the CutMax\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for the \u003cstrong\u003eCutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e is defect correction after wet sanding with P1000 to P1200 grit. In the body shop that's the most common use: after a blend-in or spot repair, the transition between new and old paint gets wet sanded, and the CutMax then takes the sanding marks out in a single pass. The compound being silicone-free is key here — in a shop environment where paint goes on every day, there can be no silicone risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003ereconditioning badly neglected vehicles\u003c\/strong\u003e the CutMax shows its strength too. Paints that have been exposed to sun, bird droppings, tree sap and industrial fallout for years build up an oxidised layer that lighter polishes can't get through. The CutMax cuts that layer away efficiently and exposes the undamaged paint underneath. The result is often striking: colours that looked dull and faded show the full depth and brilliance of the original paint again after correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003enew-car reconditioning\u003c\/strong\u003e the CutMax comes into play too, when the factory paint shows heavy orange peel. A wet sand with P1000 levels the surface, and the CutMax brings the gloss back. This job takes experience, because the clear coat on new vehicles is often thinner than on older paint systems — a paint thickness reading before sanding is a must, so you don't break through the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003epartial PPF wraps\u003c\/strong\u003e on front ends the CutMax sometimes comes in indirectly: the paint under the film gets polished before the wrap to clear up any defects that would show through the clear film. The CutMax removes scratches and swirls fast and effectively, and the finishing polish after it leaves a flawlessly smooth base for the film to bond to.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the CutMax hits its limits: on scratches that reach down into the base coat or the primer, no polish helps — here you need to respray the affected spot. The CutMax also can't replace clear coat that's already peeling over a large area. In cases like that it's better to be honest with the customer about the limits of polishing than to promise a result you can't reach. Honest communication builds the customer's trust over the long run far more than a cosmetic compromise that shows again after a few weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound comparison — CutMax vs. UltimateCut vs. EX 05-05\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range there are three products in play for heavy defect removal: CutMax, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut\"\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut (6+\/3)\u003c\/strong\u003e has the highest cut in the whole range — even higher than the CutMax. It's reserved for the most extreme cases: the worst weathering, P800 sanding marks, massive orange peel. The gloss level of 3\/5 shows that after the UltimateCut a finishing step is definitely needed — often even a two-step finish. The UltimateCut is the tool for specialists, not for daily use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05 (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits on the other side of the spectrum: the same cut and same gloss as the Cut+Finish, but with a different formula that works better on certain paint systems. It's the alternative for anyone who doesn't get the result they want with the Cut+Finish — for example on particularly hard ceramic clear coats, where the EX series has traditionally been strong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits between these extremes: more cut than the EX 05-05, but a clearly better gloss than the UltimateCut. For the bulk of heavy defect-correction work — wet sanding from P1000, deep scratches, heavy weathering — the CutMax is the optimal choice, because it gets the defect removal done in one step and keeps the finishing step after it short.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the CutMax — bottle sizes and workflow recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1000 ml and 5 litres. The 250 ml bottle is enough for several complete vehicle corrections and is the ideal entry point for private users and smaller outfits. The 1000 ml bottle is the standard size for shops with regular polishing demand. The 5-litre container is aimed at high-throughput businesses — the per-litre price is lowest here, and the wide opening makes it easier to dispense with a dosing bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best polishing workflow we recommend the combination: CutMax as the cutting compound on the rotary, followed by the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e as the finishing step on the dual-action machine, and finally \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for degreasing and result check. This three-step combo covers the whole defect-correction process — from heavy cutting to a finish that's ready to seal. Anyone who wants to lay down a long-term sealant afterwards already has the perfect base with Prepare.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn shelf life and storage: like all cutting compounds, the CutMax can separate slightly if it sits for a while. Shake the bottle thoroughly before every use until the consistency is homogeneous and creamy again. Store the product frost-free and sealed — frozen compound loses its abrasive structure and is useless after that. Stored properly, the CutMax keeps its full performance over the whole shelf life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA closing practical note on the \u003cstrong\u003ecost-effective use\u003c\/strong\u003e in the shop: the CutMax has a higher per-litre price than consumer polishes from the DIY store, but the product consumption per vehicle is much lower. The concentrated formula means you get by with three to four dots per section — a 250 ml bottle lasts for several complete vehicle corrections. Measured by result per euro spent, the CutMax is therefore more economical than cheaper alternatives that need double or triple the product and still take more passes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520611148111,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410","price":19.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520611180879,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000","price":60.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53520611213647,"sku":"D1-SNX-2465000","price":229.43,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520611246415,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410_2","price":38.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520611279183,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410_3","price":58.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520611311951,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000_2","price":120.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520611344719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000_3","price":181.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur.png?v=1730650207"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-os-02-06-hochglanz-politur-versiegelung-one-step","title":"PROFILINE OS \"02-06\" High-Gloss Polish with Sealant (One-Step)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHigh gloss and sealing in one step — SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 do? This one-step polish pairs fine paint correction with a built-in protective sealant — high gloss, light swirl removal and instant paint protection in a single pass, ideal for maintenance jobs and time-tight detailing workflows.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day in detailing there are jobs where a full multi-stage polish isn't needed — or just doesn't pay off: new-car prep with barely any swirling, regular maintenance work on well-kept cars, or fleet jobs on a tight clock. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for exactly those cases: a pro-grade one-step polish that levels light hologramming and swirl marks in a single pass while laying down a protective sealant layer at the same time. The payoff: high gloss and paint protection without a separate sealing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne-step technology: correction and sealing at once.\u003c\/strong\u003e Standard polishing splits paint correction and sealing into separate steps — polish first, wipe down with a panel wipe, then seal. The OS 02-06 folds those steps together with a hybrid formula: fine abrasive particles correct light surface defects while you work the panel, and the built-in sealant polymer lays down as a protective layer on the freshly levelled clear coat. Three steps shrink to one — with no give on gloss on suitable cars.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFine cut for light swirl marks and hologramming.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cut of the OS 02-06 sits mid-range on the SONAX scale at \"02-06\": fine enough for finishing passes and one-step work, still strong enough to pull light to medium swirl marks. On forgiving paint (hard factory clear coats, say, or newer soft paints in good shape) the OS 02-06 leaves a finish that's sealing-ready with no follow-up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt-in sealant protection straight after polishing.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polymer additive in the one-step formula forms a thin, even protective layer on the clear coat once you've buffed it out. That layer boosts hydrophobicity, lifts the gloss a touch and gives you a first line of defence against moisture, dirt and UV. The protection won't last like a dedicated ceramic or polymer sealant, but for cars on short detailing intervals — or as a first protective layer after a baseline job — it does the trick.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The OS 02-06 gives its best with a combo pad (medium-firm foam pads or combi microfibre pads) that carries the fine abrasive particles well and spreads the sealant polymer evenly across the surface at the same time. Run your dual-action polisher at 4–5 for the correction phase, then drop to 2–3 for the final finishing pass so the sealant polymer buffs out evenly. One thing: if you're putting a full ceramic sealant over the top afterwards, degrease first with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — the OS 02-06's sealant polymer has to come off before a new coating, or it'll hurt adhesion. On cars getting nothing but the OS 02-06, you can skip that step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne-step polishing technology — correction and sealing fused into one formula\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe technical trick of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is fusing two normally incompatible jobs into one formula: abrasive polishing and protective-layer build. A pure correction polish needs to stay free of waxy or polymer ingredients that would wedge between abrasive and paint and dull the cut. A pure sealant, the other way round, can't carry any abrasion that would tear the fresh protective layer straight back off. The OS 02-06 squares that circle with a specifically tuned particle size and an optimised formulation approach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe finely milled abrasive particles in the OS 02-06 are sized so they do their correcting during the active polishing phase — when the pad is driven across the panel under pressure and speed. As the polish buffs out (less pressure, lower speed), the remaining polymer parts of the formula lay an even film across the cleaned surface. That sequencing — cut first, then protective-layer build — is what lets both jobs live in one product without stepping on each other.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS 02-06's sealing component is built as short-term protection that holds for several months, but it isn't on par with a full polymer or ceramic sealant. For cars detailed regularly (every 3–6 months) where lasting ceramic-coating protection isn't the goal, this level of protection is plenty. For cars where maximum sealant durability is the goal, the two-step route (OS 02-06 or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e for the polish, then a panel wipe and a dedicated sealant) stays the first choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the OS 02-06 right — pad choice, machine and workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGetting the one-step polish right starts with the pad: for the OS 02-06, reach for combi pads or lightly abrasive foam pads that back up the correction side and spread the sealant side evenly. Pure finishing pads (very soft pads with no cut of their own) knock back the OS 02-06's correction power hard — when swirl removal is the priority, a combi pad is the better call. Very hard or abrasive pads, on the other hand, lift correction power but can work the sealant polymer in too aggressively and leave an uneven finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMachine work: start your one-step polishing at medium speed (4–5 on the dual-action polisher) with normal polishing pressure. Spread the polish on the pad first, then run overlapping passes across the panel — usually 2–3 passes for full swirl removal. For the final pass, drop the speed and ease off the pressure to buff the sealant polymer in evenly for the finish. Make your wipe-off pass with a clean microfibre cloth when the polish on the paint turns to its whitish, hazy phase — that's the sweet spot to wipe the sealant component off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for checking your work: once it's buffed out, check the panel under raking artificial light for any swirl marks left behind. The OS 02-06 pulls light swirls clean off and knocks medium swirls back hard — deep scratches and heavy hologramming stay visible with a one-step polish and call for a multi-stage process with a more aggressive correction step. The one-step polish is no substitute for multi-stage correction on badly marred paint; it's the right tool for paint where the damage level doesn't call for deeper correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the OS 02-06 fits — when the one-step polish is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e nails several typical detailing scenarios. New-car prep: fresh cars come in with transport-protection residue and fine hologramming from the factory polish, but no deeper swirls or scratches. The OS 02-06 pulls these fine surface defects off in one pass and leaves the paint sealing-ready — an economical, time-efficient answer for pre-delivery new-car prep.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMaintenance work and regular care: cars detailed every few months that have only picked up light, everyday swirl marks are where the OS 02-06's one-step efficiency shines. Instead of polishing the panel, then degreasing it, then sealing it, you get it all done in one go. For shops with high car throughput, that means real time saved per car — and a solid result alongside it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDealer prep and lot cars: used-car dealers and lease returns with manageable paint damage (everyday scratches, light swirls from the wash line) are a classic use case. The OS 02-06 lets you turn out a fast, convincing job that makes the car a lot more sellable, without the time hit of a full multi-stage detail. The sealant polymer in the OS 02-06 also protects the paint against the elements while the car sits on the lot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe OS 02-06 compared — one-step vs. multi-stage polishing and the OS 04-05\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range carries two one-step polishes for different needs. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-os-04-05-hochglanz-politur-one-step\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 04-05\u003c\/a\u003e is the more aggressive one-step polish with a higher cut (04-05 on the SONAX scale) — it's built for paint with medium to heavier swirl marks the OS 02-06 doesn't correct enough. The OS 04-05 carries no built-in sealant and is positioned as a pure correction product that calls for a separate sealing step afterwards. The pick between the two comes down to how damaged the paint is: light swirls and maintenance work → OS 02-06, medium to heavier swirls → OS 04-05 followed by a separate sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst a multi-stage polish (coarse correction step + finishing polish + panel wipe + sealant), the one-step polish loses ground on badly damaged paint, as you'd expect: it can't pull deep scratches that need a coarse cutting step, and the built-in protection won't last like a dedicated ceramic coating. For paint that far gone, we recommend the multi-stage process with the NP 03-06 as the finishing polish. The OS 02-06's edge is the time and efficiency it buys you on light to lightly-medium damage — used on the right car, it turns out a professional finish that convinces the customer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers who want to cover both scenarios, we recommend the OS 02-06 as the standard one-step for the bulk of cars coming in (the ones in normal care condition) and the OS 04-05 as backup for more heavily damaged paint. Splitting your polishing workflow by damage level like this is a professional approach that maximises finish quality and keeps the work economical.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1 litre, plus as 2-pack and 3-pack sets. The 250 ml bottle is ideal if you want to try the product out, or for working small areas (single panels, bonnet, roof). The 1 litre bottle is the most economical pick for regular users and pro shops — depending on pad size and car size, each application takes about 15–25 ml, so a litre is good for about 40–65 full car applications.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS 02-06 is a particularly good call for shops offering a high-quality, time-efficient detail as a standard service that want to lean on one product covering both correction and protection. For car washes and quick details on limited time, the one-step formula is economically attractive. And for private owners caring for their own car who want a simple process with no stack of chemicals, the OS 02-06 is a no-fuss answer for a full detail in a single pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line, the SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 is the right tool for every job where time and efficiency count without giving up paint correction and protection. If you want to combine professional gloss and instant paint protection on a car in good shape, the OS 02-06 is the most effective answer in the SONAX PROFILINE polishing range.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520769352015,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410","price":9.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520769384783,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000","price":25.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520769417551,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410_2","price":18.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520769450319,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410_3","price":28.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520769483087,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000_2","price":50.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520769515855,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000_3","price":76.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-os-02-06-hochglanz-politur-versiegelung-one-step.png?v=1730651051"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur","title":"PROFILINE GlassPolish Glass Polish (Cerium Oxide Chemical-Mechanical)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove scratches and spots from glass chemically and mechanically — SONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish do? This cerium oxide glass polish removes scratches, water spots, streaks and oxidation from windscreens and vehicle glass chemically and mechanically — for a clear view and streak-free glass without heavy sanding work.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eScratched windscreens, baked-in water spots and oxidation on vehicle glass are more than a cosmetic flaw — they cut your view in rain, low sun and at night, and that can get dangerous. Normal glass cleaners lift loose dirt, but they do nothing about scratches worked into the surface or mineral deposits chemically baked on. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e solves that with a chemical-mechanical approach: cerium oxide, an abrasive made specifically for glass, polishes the surface on a microscopic level and pulls out surface scratches, water spots and that oxidised film — what you get is optically clear, streak-free glass with maximum light transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCerium oxide technology for glass surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Cerium oxide is an abrasive developed specifically for glass, and it has a unique dual property: mechanical micro-abrasion for physical scratch removal, plus chemical activity at the glass silicon-dioxide surface that makes the polish work better than purely mechanical alternatives. That chemical-mechanical interplay is exactly why cerium oxide polishes are the go-to method in optics and vehicle glass refinishing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePulls out scratches, water spots and wiper marks.\u003c\/strong\u003e Windscreens typically pick up fine scratch marks from wiper blades dragging sand particles along — those wiper marks show up in rain and low sun as annoying light scatter. Mineral water spots and limescale deposits on the glass hurt optical clarity and bond chemically to the surface. The GlassPolish clears both types of problem and brings back the glass's original clarity.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFor windscreen, side windows and rear screen.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cerium oxide polish suits every piece of vehicle glass: windscreen (the biggest gain in visibility), side windows (scratches from raising the glass through dirty guide channels), rear screen (wiper marks from rain off the tailgate). It also works on glass headlight lenses and plastic headlight covers — here, pair it with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e for the best results.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Before you polish the glass, clean the pane thoroughly — dirt and sand on the surface during polishing will lay down fresh scratches. Pre-clean with a microfibre cloth and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e. Lay the GlassPolish onto the damp pane with a sponge or applicator cloth and work it in with circular motions — a slightly damp surface spreads the cerium oxide more evenly than dry glass does. For stubborn wiper marks, work with a polishing machine and a foam pad — polishing by hand is plenty for light spots and water marks, but for deeper scratches a machine gives you a hand. After polishing, rinse the area with clean water and buff it off with a clean microfibre cloth — the result shows up straight away in how clear the glass reads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCerium oxide technology: how the glass polish regenerates glass surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCerium oxide (CeO₂) is a rare-earth metal oxide that has been used in glass optics and glass processing as an abrasive and polishing agent for precision glass for decades. What makes it so well suited to glass comes down to a chemical-mechanical dual action: on one hand, cerium oxide has a specific hardness (Mohs scale ~6) that is ideal for glass (Mohs ~5–6) — hard enough for abrasion, but not so hard that it lays down fresh deep scratches. On the other, cerium oxide reacts chemically with the silicon dioxide of the glass surface and forms temporary cerium-silicate compounds during polishing that boost the polishing effect on a molecular level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat dual action explains why cerium oxide polishes treat glass surfaces far more effectively than purely mechanical abrasives: the chemical activity etches the silicon-dioxide surface of the glass on a microscopic level, which together with the mechanical abrasion creates a \"reflow\" effect — tiny scratches aren't just sanded away, the glass matrix flows slightly and fills the finest cracks. That's why, after a cerium oxide polish, scratches look gone that were really only \"rounded off\" or filled in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e uses this principle in a formulation tuned for vehicle work: the cerium oxide particles are suspended in a suitable carrier liquid that ensures even spread and enough lubrication. That keeps excess friction heat down during polishing and protects the pane from uneven removal. At the same time, the formula is built so it rinses off residue-free after polishing — no whitish cerium oxide film stays on the pane that could hurt optical clarity once you're done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the glass polish the right way — from prep to result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorking with the glass polish follows a clear workflow that breaks down into prep, polishing and finishing. Prep matters especially with glass polishing: any speck of dirt on the pane that gets between the applicator and the glass during polishing makes fresh scratches — a mistake that gives you exactly the opposite of what you wanted. Wash the pane thoroughly with glass cleaner, rinse with clean water and dry with a clean microfibre cloth. Mask off the edge seals and paint around the pane with masking tape — cerium oxide on paint leaves streaks that are hard to get off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolishing by hand: put GlassPolish on a sponge or applicator cloth, lay it onto the damp glass and work it in with circular motions. Medium pressure, even movement — don't let it dry, top up with a damp cloth or a little water if you need to. The visible sign it's working: the abrasive film clears up as you go and runs less — that tells you the cerium oxide particles are working the surface. After 3–5 minutes of polishing, take the product off with a damp microfibre cloth and check the result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolishing by machine: for more stubborn wiper marks or deeper scratches, reach for a polishing machine with a foam pad. Low speed (setting 2–3), light pressure — glass is more sensitive than paint and reacts faster to excess friction heat. Work in sections (max. 30×30 cm), don't dwell too long on one spot. After each pass, check the result in the light — look through the pane against the light to spot any leftover scratches and streaks. Depending on how deep the scratches run, a second pass may be needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlass polish use cases — typical glass problems and how to fix them\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e tackles a range of typical glass problems that show up on vehicles in everyday use. Wiper marks are the most common job: wiper blades dragging sand particles along make fine scratch marks in the windscreen glass — you'll spot them as light scatter in rain and low sun. These scratches are usually very fine and respond well to one or two passes of the cerium oxide polish. One thing to watch: after the glass polish, check the wiper rubber for damage and replace it if needed, since old wiper rubbers will just start the wiper-marking all over again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStubborn water spots and limescale deposits on the glass are the second most common job. Limescale from hard water that has dried onto the pane can first be loosened chemically with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-waterspot-remover-wasserfleckenentferner-kalkentferner\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/a\u003e — in stubborn cases, where the limescale has already attacked the glass surface, the GlassPolish follows as the mechanical step to polish out the remaining haze in the glass. This combined approach (chemical first, then mechanical) is far more effective on heavy limescale damage than mechanical polishing alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOxidation film on glass (a yellowish or dull layer that absorbs light) builds up from UV exposure and chemical reactions on the glass surface — especially on vehicles that sit in the sun for long stretches or run in industrial settings. Normal glass cleaners won't shift this film, but it responds well to the cerium oxide polish. After treatment, the glass reads noticeably clearer and scatters far less light in low sun and at night — a direct safety gain for the driver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlassPolish compared — when chemical, when mechanical, when both?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn glass refinishing there are different product strategies you should pick by problem type and intensity. Purely chemical approaches (like the SONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover) are ideal for mineral deposits and light limescale, without removing any of the glass surface mechanically — that method is fast and risk-free, but it does nothing against mechanical scratches. The GlassPolish, as a chemical-mechanical product, is the right call when there are scratches or streaks alongside the spots that need mechanical work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst wet-sanding paper (e.g. P2000 or P3000 wet polish for glass), the GlassPolish has a clear edge: the cerium oxide formula is less aggressive and leaves a finer surface after treatment that doesn't need a follow-up fine polish. Wet-sanding paper removes deeper scratches more efficiently, but leaves sanding marks that then have to be levelled out with a cerium oxide polish. For typical vehicle glass problems (wiper marks, limescale, light oxidation) the GlassPolish is the most direct and gentlest solution — without needing a multi-step sanding process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a finishing step after the glass polish, a glass sealant is worth it — it protects the polished surface and adds water repellency through a lotus effect — the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-glass-scheibenversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" Glass\u003c\/a\u003e gives you long-term protection here, and the hydrophobic properties improve wiper performance and visibility in rain while cutting future water spots right down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish — sizes and use in a professional workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml (single bottle) and as a 2x 250 ml set. The 250 ml bottle goes a long way over many glass-polishing jobs when used properly — cerium oxide polishes go on in fairly small amounts, since too much product on the pane just makes more work taking it off without improving the polishing effect. For detailing shops that regularly run vehicles with glass refinishing in the programme, the 2-pack is the more economical pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe glass polish also suits use on glass headlight lenses made of glass (not for plastic headlights — use the dedicated \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e there). On glass domes, clear glass covers and optical glass components, the cerium oxide polish works too — but always go careful on already-coated or treated glass surfaces, which the abrasion could damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the GlassPolish is the must-have tool for anyone after clear, scratch-free vehicle glass as part of a professional refinishing standard. The chemical-mechanical cerium oxide technology delivers results no other product type gets this efficiently — and the direct effect on driving safety through better visibility makes glass polishing one of the refinishing steps with the highest practical payoff for the vehicle owner.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53521078616399,"sku":"D1-SNX-2731410","price":24.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521078649167,"sku":"D1-SNX-2731410_2","price":48.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521078681935,"sku":"D1-SNX-2731410_3","price":73.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur_250ml.png?v=1730653450"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur","title":"PROFILINE HeadlightPolish Headlight Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRestore yellowed headlights and bring them back clear — SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish do? This dedicated headlight polish strips UV-driven yellowing, oxidation layers and fine scratches off polycarbonate headlights — and brings back the original clarity and light transmission like a pro.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYellowed and oxidised headlights are one of the most common cosmetic issues on cars five years and older: UV light slowly breaks down the outer protective layer of the polycarbonate headlights, the surface oxidises and yellows, and light transmission drops measurably. That doesn't just hurt the look of the car — it hurts road safety too, because clouded headlights cut the reach of the beam. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro headlight polish for mechanically reconditioning these headlight surfaces: abrasive enough to pull off yellowing and oxidation, fine enough to leave a clear, scratch-free finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStrips yellowing and UV oxidation off polycarbonate surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polycarbonate, the material modern car headlights are made of, is light and impact-resistant but UV-sensitive: without an intact UV protective layer the surface oxidises into a yellowy, cloudy, matte film that scatters light instead of letting it through. The HeadlightPolish pulls that oxidation layer off with fine abrasive polishing and exposes the clear polycarbonate underneath — the result is a headlight that looks and works like new.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFine abrasion for clear, transparent results without scratches.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polycarbonate headlights are softer than car paint and react to overly coarse abrasion with new scratches that hurt clarity just as much. The HeadlightPolish is dialled in for the specific demands of headlight reconditioning: fine abrasive particles that take off the yellowing and light scratches without cutting new, deep marks that you'd have to polish out again.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks by hand or by machine.\u003c\/strong\u003e The HeadlightPolish formula is built to run both on a polisher (dual-action or rotary with a small pad) and by hand with an applicator. By hand you can work small headlights, headlights with tricky geometry and on-the-spot touch-ups well — for bigger or heavily oxidised headlights the machine is more efficient and gives a more even result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e On heavily yellowed headlights a multi-step job is the way to go: first wet-sand the worst of the oxidised crud with fine sandpaper (P1000–P2000) to take the oxidised layer off evenly, then polish it out with the HeadlightPolish to remove the sanding marks and bring up the gloss. For that full process the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-scheinwerferaufbereitungsset-aufbereitungsset\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Headlight Reconditioning Set\u003c\/a\u003e is the way to go — it packs all the materials you need including the sandpapers. After polishing, always lay down a UV protective sealant — without protection the headlights yellow again within 6–18 months. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-headlightcoating-scheinwerferversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightCoating \"CC\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the ceramic sealant for lasting UV protection after the polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolycarbonate chemistry — how the HeadlightPolish removes headlight yellowing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe way the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e works comes down to mechanical micro-abrasion that takes the oxidised, yellowed polycarbonate surface off layer by layer. Chemically, the oxidation layer on yellowed headlights is a photodegradation layer — UV light breaks the polymer chain bonds in the polycarbonate and forms carbonyl groups, which cause the yellow discolouration. That layer sits on the top micrometres of the polycarbonate and can be cut off by abrasion without touching the material underneath.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive particles in the HeadlightPolish are tuned for polycarbonate surfaces: polycarbonate is noticeably softer than tempered glass or car paint and reacts faster to abrasion. Particles that are too coarse would cut deep marks into the clear material that hurt light transmission just as much as the original yellowing. The HeadlightPolish uses finely ground abrasive particles that take the layer off in a controlled way and leave a polished, clear surface. The result depends on how far the yellowing and oxidation have gone: lightly yellowed headlights come fully clear with a single polish, heavily yellowed or deeply eroded headlights need several passes or a wet-sanding step first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn important point in headlight reconditioning is understanding the layer structure: new headlights have a factory-applied UV protective layer (hardcoating) that shields the polycarbonate from UV light. Over time that protective layer breaks down, and the unprotected polycarbonate starts to oxidise. The HeadlightPolish removes the oxidation layer, but not the underlying problem: the freshly polished polycarbonate has no UV protection after the polish, and without a new protective layer it will yellow again. That's why the combo of HeadlightPolish (the polish) and a UV-resistant sealant is the complete reconditioning concept for headlights that stay clear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe clarity and light transmission of a freshly reconditioned headlight can make the difference in TÜV-relevant terms: headlights that have lost more than 50% of their light transmission to extreme yellowing can be flagged as defects at a roadworthiness inspection. A professional headlight reconditioning doesn't just bring back the look — it also has practical relevance for vehicle safety and registration.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the HeadlightPolish right — hand polishing and machine work\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the headlight polish starts with prep: wash and dry the headlight thoroughly to get rid of grit and coarse dirt particles that would scratch during polishing. Mask off the adjacent paint with painter's tape, since the HeadlightPolish abrades clear coat too — and that's a pain to fix afterwards. Check the headlight for scratches and how deep any cracks run: surface scratches polish out, but deep cracks or internal headlight damage can't be fixed by polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBy hand: lay the HeadlightPolish onto an applicator or a soft microfibre cloth. Work even circular motions with medium pressure across the whole headlight face — dwell time matters less here than the mechanical action from pressure and movement. By hand you'll need several passes to get the same result you'd get from one machine pass. The hand method works especially well on smaller headlights or for spot work (single blemishes or local oxidation patches) where a machine is less precise.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBy machine: run a small pad (65–80 mm) on a dual-action or rotary polisher (speed 3–4) with even, light pressure across the headlight face. The curved geometry of most headlights calls for a flexible pad that follows the shape, and controlled pad guidance to avoid uneven edge pressure. After the machine pass, buff off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result in raking light for any leftover sanding marks or haze. Do a second pass if needed, especially on heavily yellowed headlights.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the HeadlightPolish earns its keep — when headlight reconditioning makes sense\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA professional headlight reconditioning with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e pays off in plenty of situations. The most common case is sprucing up the look of cars five years and older that have lost their appeal to UV yellowing. In the used-car trade, headlight reconditioning is one of the most cost-effective upgrades going: a professional job takes 20–30 minutes per car, uses little material and lifts the look of the car a lot — an effort that pays for itself fast in the asking price.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs part of a full detail, headlight reconditioning is a quality signal: a car with clear, freshly reconditioned headlights next to high-gloss paint reads as overall coherence and craftsmanship. Plenty of customers value it when a detailer looks after this detail too, and take it as a marker for the quality of the whole job. Offering headlight reconditioning as an add-on service is, for that reason, a worthwhile addition to a detailer's line-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn fleet and commercial vehicles, headlight reconditioning matters for safety: van fleets that run a lot at night or in poor visibility benefit from maximum headlight brightness. Regular headlight care as part of a fleet maintenance plan extends the service life of the headlights and pushes back the point where a costly headlight replacement becomes necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe HeadlightPolish in the product system — polish, sealant and reconditioning set\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX PROFILINE headlight care range, several products work together into a complete reconditioning concept. The HeadlightPolish handles the mechanical correction work — it pulls off the oxidation layer and brings the headlight up to high-gloss transparency. After polishing, a protective sealant is a must to lock the result in for the long haul. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-headlightcoating-scheinwerferversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightCoating \"CC\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the ceramic UV protective sealant that shields the freshly polished polycarbonate from renewed UV degradation and stretches the durability of the result out to several years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that want to offer headlight reconditioning as a full service, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-scheinwerferaufbereitungsset-aufbereitungsset\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Headlight Reconditioning Set\u003c\/a\u003e is a handy all-in-one: it holds all the materials for the full process — sandpapers for the pre-step on heavily yellowed headlights, the HeadlightPolish for the polishing phase, and the HeadlightCoating for the final UV protection. For shops bringing this service in fresh, the set shortens the learning curve and takes the guesswork out of picking materials.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with third-party headlight cleaning products, the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish brings the advantage of a matched product system: the polish formula is built so that the polycarbonate ends up with an optimal surface for the HeadlightCoating after reconditioning — no residue, no incompatibility with the sealant polymer. In-system compatibility matters especially with headlights, since poor or insufficient bonding of the protective layer leads to quick flaking and so to a short-term win with no lasting effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml as well as a 2-pack and a 3-pack. The 250 ml size is the right one for one-off and occasional users: a pair of headlights typically takes 10–20 ml, so the 250 ml bottle is good for 12–25 full headlight jobs. For detailing shops running several cars a week, the 3-pack is the most economical option and keeps you stocked for longer without frequent reorders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe HeadlightPolish is well worth keeping as a fixed part of the service line-up for any shop that offers detailing across the board. Headlight reconditioning is a service plenty of customers actively ask for, and one that delivers a measurable value bump to the car — both in looks and in function. The combo of HeadlightPolish and HeadlightCoating as a complete headlight service is an attractive add-on that lifts the margin per detail without much extra work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish is the right product for anyone who wants to recondition yellowed and oxidised headlights like a pro. This professional headlight polish from the PROFILINE range is dialled in for polycarbonate surfaces, delivers clear and transparent results, and is the first step of a complete headlight reconditioning process that's finished off with the HeadlightCoating.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53521230889295,"sku":"D1-SNX-2761410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521230922063,"sku":"D1-SNX-2761410_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521230954831,"sku":"D1-SNX-2761410_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur_250ml.png?v=1730655082"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE FS \"05-04\" cutting compound","description":"\u003c!-- BLOCK 1: body_html --\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eUsed-car paint correction with heavy cut — SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 do? This medium-aggressive cutting compound rated 5\/4 (cut\/gloss) pulls out sanding marks down to P1500 sandpaper, normal paint weathering and light scratches — silicone-free, low-dust and with solid gloss after a single pass.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn used-car prep, efficiency is everything: one pass that both corrects and builds gloss saves time and product. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e is built exactly for that job — a medium-aggressive cutting compound with a cut grade of 5 and a solid gloss grade of 4 in the SONAX rating system. It's made for restoring normally weathered, lightly scratched paint, takes out sanding marks down to P1500 grit, and leaves a clean gloss that in many cases needs no second finishing pass. That makes the FS 05-04 a workhorse for the daily grind — especially where lots of cars need to be turned around economically and reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHeavy cut with a solid gloss build at the same time.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a cut grade of 5, the FS 05-04 sits in the upper-middle of the SONAX PROFILINE compounds — aggressive enough to reliably pull out nagging sanding marks down to P1500, oxidation layers and fine-to-medium scratches. At the same time, the gloss grade of 4 leaves a clean, even paint gloss after the work — often good enough as the final result in used-car prep. That combination cuts the total number of polishing steps you need and pushes up the profit per car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free, low-dust and odourless — professional working properties.\u003c\/strong\u003e The silicone-free formula guards against fish-eyes in later refinish work and makes the FS 05-04 a safe pick in a body-shop setting, where cars may go on to more bodywork after polishing. The low-dust behaviour keeps the working surface clean, makes the wipe-down easier and protects both the machine and the adjacent panel areas. The odourless character improves working comfort — especially in enclosed halls or when you're working through bigger batches of cars.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for use with variable-speed polishing machines.\u003c\/strong\u003e The FS 05-04 formula is dialled in for variable-speed rotary polishers — a machine type widely used in the pro world that delivers high cutting power and even material removal. The paste shows its best behaviour at medium-to-higher speeds: reliable cut in the first phase, a controllable break-down point, and clean gloss as you work it out. It also works on dual-action machines, though the cut sits a touch lower there because of the lower downforce and different motion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For used-car prep with the FS 05-04 we'd run it like this for repeatable results: work it panel by panel with a medium-firm foam pad on a rotary — 900–1200 rpm for normal cutting, stepping up to 1500 rpm for stubborn sanding marks. Lay the paste down thin over roughly a 50×50 cm working area, spread it slowly first, then work it out until the paste turns clear. Always do a test patch first — especially on unknown cars with possibly repainted panels or thin clearcoat. After the FS 05-04, one pass with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e as a finishing polish is usually enough for a mirror-smooth high-gloss finish. On normally weathered paint without deep scratches, the FS 05-04 can often be run as a stand-alone solution too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE rating system — what 05-04 means and why it's key to picking the right compound\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX rates every PROFILINE compound on one consistent two-digit system: the first number is cutting power (abrasiveness), the second is gloss ability — each on a scale from 1 (minimal) to 6 (maximal). This system lets you place a product in your polishing workflow fast and clearly, without digging through the full product description. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e stands for a mix of high cutting power (5) and good, if not maximal, gloss ability (4) — the classic profile of a compound that corrects paint defects while leaving a presentable gloss behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn practical terms, cut grade 5 means: the abrasive particles in the FS 05-04 are big and hard enough to reliably pull out normally weathered paint (oxidation, dull spots, baked-in dirt particles) and sanding marks down to P1500 grit. P1500 is a typical grit for wet-sanding as prep before polishing — if you've got to polish out wet-sanding marks, the FS 05-04 has you covered. At the same time, cut grade 5 stays controllable — with the right machine setup and technique, the risk of burning through the clearcoat stays manageable even on thinner paint, as long as you know the material's limits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGloss grade 4 means: once the cutting compound is worked out, a clean, even gloss is left on the paint — clearly better than the untouched, oxidised starting state, but still with a faint hologram haze that shows up under direct light. That hologram haze is the typical signature of a compound, and it comes out fully with a finishing pass (say the NP 03-06 or the PerfectFinish). In used-car prep — where the end result often isn't inspected under studio lighting — gloss grade 4 is enough as the final result in many cases.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the FS 05-04 right — machine setup, foam pad and workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eFS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e right starts with machine choice: for the best results, a variable-speed rotary polisher is the ideal tool. Rotaries generate high surface heat through their circular spin and a controllable material removal — ideal conditions for the FS 05-04's cutting particles. Recommended speed ranges: 900–1200 rpm for normal used-car prep (oxidation, weathering, fine scratches), 1200–1500 rpm for more stubborn sanding marks after P1500 wet-sanding. Higher speeds improve cutting power but also raise the heat input — a trade-off that takes experience.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFoam pad choice: for the FS 05-04, a medium-firm foam pad (medium-cut pad) works best — soft finishing pads kill the cut too much, while very hard wool or microfibre pads push the cut up further, which can be risky on unknown paint. A proven middle ground is a yellow-orange foam pad in the medium hardness range, which gets the most out of the FS 05-04 without removing more material than you need. On dual-action machines (DA machines) you can pick a slightly harder pad to make up for the lower downforce of the DA action.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep-by-step workflow: 1. Clean the paint (pre-foam, iron remover, tar remover), 2. Measure paint thickness (a paint depth gauge is recommended on unknown cars), 3. Work a test patch (one panel per side to dial in the machine setup), 4. Work panel by panel (roughly 40×50 cm working areas), 5. Check the result under low LED light (to make holograms show up), 6. If needed, a finishing pass with the NP 03-06 or PerfectFinish, 7. Seal the paint (polymer sealant or ceramic coating). Wipe the FS 05-04 off with a clean microfibre buffing cloth once it's worked out — don't let it dry and then scrub it hard, since dried compound residue can damage the clean finished surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eImportant note on paint temperature: the FS 05-04 should be worked on paint surfaces between 15–30 °C. Paint that's too cold (under 10 °C) stops the abrasive particles from working in evenly; paint that's too hot (direct sun, summer heat) lets the paste dry out too fast and makes working it out harder. In summer, work in the hall or in the early morning hours.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsed-car upgrading with the FS 05-04 — typical damage profiles and results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe main use case for the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e is professional used-car upgrading: cars with two to ten years of use, whose paint has lost its original gloss to UV exposure, wash-bay contact, mechanical effects and weather. Typical damage profiles where the FS 05-04 works best: oxidised, dull paint with a gloss haze; water spots that won't come off with a normal wash; fine-to-medium scratches from improper cleaning (car-wash damage, wipe marks); sanding marks after wet-sanding down to P1500 as prep for deep-scratch removal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the FS 05-04 can't do: deep scratches that reach into the basecoat or primer can't be fully removed by polishing — polishing doesn't add material, it takes it off. If you want to remove heavy impact marks, parking dings or deep-running scratches, you've got to either prep with much coarser sandpaper (P800–P1200) and start with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e for the heavy cut, before bringing in the FS 05-04 for the fine correction. This multi-stage approach is everyday practice at the used-car dealer or in the pro detailing shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicle fleets and used-car dealers with high throughput, the FS 05-04 in the 5-litre container is especially economical: a consistent, repeatable result across many cars, combined with low paste use per panel (typically 3–5 ml for a 40×50 cm working area), makes the 5-litre container a cost-efficient tool in daily operation. On show and display cars, where the visual condition directly affects the asking price, running the FS 05-04 as a standard prep step is a sensible investment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFS 05-04 in comparison — where it sits in the SONAX PROFILINE compound range\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE compound range has a matched solution for every use case. Placing the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e in the range is directly comparable through the rating system: if you need an even more aggressive cut for deeper scratches or wet-sanding from P1000, you grab the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut 6+\/3\u003c\/a\u003e (cut grade 6+, gloss grade 3) — the highest abrasiveness in the range, but lower gloss ability that always needs a finishing pass. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CutMax 6\/4\u003c\/a\u003e sits with cut grade 6 and gloss grade 4 between the UltimateCut and the FS 05-04 — also for aggressive corrections, but with a touch better gloss than the UltimateCut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe FS 05-04 at 5\/4 is the compromise product for the typical prep job — cut high enough for most used-car damage profiles, gloss good enough to skip a finishing pass in many cases. For people who want even better gloss alongside a solid cut, the PROFILINE Cut+Finish 5\/5 is an interesting alternative: same cut as the FS 05-04, but one step better gloss ability (5 instead of 4) — though at a higher price per litre. The choice between the FS 05-04 and the Cut+Finish comes down to whether you want to skip the final finishing pass regularly or not.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a follow-up polish after the FS 05-04, two picks make sense depending on the result you want: the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e (cut grade 3, gloss grade 6) for a quick finishing pass with maximum gloss, or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish 4\/6\u003c\/a\u003e for cases where structured rework is still needed after wet-sanding. Both finishing polishes work the FS 05-04's holograms out fully and prep the paint for a final sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 — container sizes, target audience and bottom line\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in three container sizes: 250 ml for first use, the test in the shop or the occasional single-car job; 1 litre as the standard container for regular prep of small-to-medium car volumes; and 5 litres for used-car dealers, car rental firms and detailing businesses with high throughput. Pick the container size based on how often you'll actually use it — compounds have a limited shelf life once opened, and an oversized container that sits in the shop for years loses effectiveness as the emulsion separates and dries out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho the FS 05-04 is for: professional vehicle detailers focused on the used-car business, dealers and shops that take cars in part-exchange and visually upgrade them before resale; car-wash businesses with a prep service; detailing studios after an economical compound for standard correction jobs, without having to set up a multi-stage polish for every car. For home users who want to prep their car once a year, the 250 ml container is enough — though running a rotary machine is a must to reach the specified cutting power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 is the right cutting compound when you want to correct in one pass and land a presentable gloss result. The mix of cut grade 5 and gloss grade 4, the silicone-free, low-dust formula, plus the choice of three container sizes make it a versatile tool in the daily polishing grind. If you want a product that runs economically, safely and repeatably in used-car prep, the FS 05-04 is a solid, proven solution.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57344960790863,"sku":"D1-SNX-3193000","price":39.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57344960823631,"sku":"D1-SNX-3195000","price":158.27,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04_250ml.png?v=1774730669"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-sp-06-02-schleif-politur-heavy-cut","title":"PROFILINE SP \"06-02\" Cutting Polish (Heavy-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches, sanding marks and overspray with SONAX PROFILINE SP \"06-02\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SP \"06-02\" from SONAX PROFILINE do? This silicone-free heavy-cut compound with cut level 6 removes sanding marks up to P1200, overspray, etching damage and deeply embedded scratches on all paints — as the first step in a professional polishing workflow.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional paint correction there's no \"one-does-it-all\" polish. A solid multi-step workflow splits the job: first a heavy-cut compound grinds out the coarse defects, then a finishing polish refines the result until the paint sits there free of marring and with maximum gloss. That role as the first and most powerful step is exactly what the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SP 06-02\u003c\/strong\u003e takes on — a silicone-free cutting compound with cut level 6, built for work with the rotary polisher. It removes sanding marks from wet-sanding up to P1200, overspray, etching damage from bird droppings, insects and tree sap, plus badly weathered single-stage paints. SONAX PROFILINE's SP polish system is firmly established in professional paint correction: the clearly defined cut and gloss levels let you plan a multi-stage workflow precisely, where every polish handles exactly what it was built for — and the SP \"06-02\" is the strongest, most abrasive tool in the whole set. It stands for the first, decisive step, without which the refinement steps that follow couldn't do their job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCut level 6 for defects other polishes can't touch.\u003c\/strong\u003e Deeply embedded scratches, sanding marks after wet-sanding with P1000 or P1200, baked-on overspray and heavily oxidised paint surfaces: those are the jobs the SP \"06-02\" was designed for. Conventional medium-cut polishes at cut level 4 or 5 fall short here — the SP \"06-02\" clears them systematically and under control, without stripping away more clear coat than it needs to.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free — fit for rework and respray jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone-based polishes leave behind residues that are hard to remove and can cause fisheyes and adhesion problems on later respray or sealing work. The SP \"06-02\" is formulated completely silicone-free — it leaves no traces that get in the way of later paint correction, which makes it the standard for professional shops and bodyshops that also respray.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDefined finish for predictable follow-up polishing.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SP \"06-02\" leaves a defined, even finish on the paint that the follow-up polish PROFILINE FS 05-04 can refine in a targeted, efficient way. The matched cut and gloss levels in the PROFILINE system are no accident — they let you run a workflow where the next step always builds on the last, with no needless in-between passes or do-overs.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e always work the SP \"06-02\" on clean, dust-free paint and degrease the surface beforehand with an IPA mix (isopropyl alcohol) to pull off residues from waxes or care products. On the first pass, use higher pressure (5–10 kg) at lower speed (800 RPM) to activate the abrasive and cut down the defect. Then drop the pressure and raise the speed (1200 RPM) for the refining phase. Always work in a crosshatch pattern to avoid transitions. After the SP \"06-02\", always check the defined finish under good lighting before moving on to the FS 05-04.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut level 6 and gloss level 2 — how the SP \"06-02\" works through paint defects\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE system defines cut and gloss levels on a scale that makes picking the right polish for each defect level easy. Cut level 6 is the highest cut in the SP range — it's an aggressive cut that reaches even stubborn defects like deeply embedded scratches and wet-sanding marks up to P1200. At the same time, gloss level 2 means the SP \"06-02\" leaves a certain haze after polishing that a finishing polish has to refine further. That's not a drawback, it's the plan: a heavy-cut compound that also delivers maximum gloss always compromises either the cutting power or the finish. The SP \"06-02\" is optimised for the first step — and it does that step so well that the second step with the FS 05-04 becomes efficient and predictable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive formulation of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SP 06-02\u003c\/strong\u003e works with mineral abrasives that turn actively abrasive under the pressure of the rotary polisher. These so-called \"breaking down\" abrasives break apart as the polishing goes on: on the first pass at high pressure they hit with their full aggression, on the second pass at reduced pressure they get finer and produce a more even finish. This self-breaking behaviour is why the SP \"06-02\", despite its cut level 6, gives a controlled and predictable result — the paint isn't removed at random, it's worked systematically. If you want to understand why professional detailers rate the PROFILINE system, here's one of the core reasons: the chemistry works with the machine, not against it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for practice: the SP \"06-02\" is built for work with the rotary polisher, not for dual-action machines. Rotary machines generate the heat and pressure you need to activate the abrasives properly. With a dual-action machine at low cut and moderate pressure you can in theory use a heavy-cut compound, but the result and the efficiency are clearly worse. In the pro use the SP \"06-02\" is designed for, only the rotary machine comes into play — ideally with a wool pad for maximum cut, or a hard foam pad for a controlled finish on more delicate paints.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the SP \"06-02\" the right way — the rotary-polisher workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePhase 1 starts with a prepped paint area, cleared of dust and dirt. The panel you're working should also be at room temperature — cold paint reacts to the abrasives differently than warm, and below 10 °C the polish can't reach its full effect. Put product on the pad — not too much, about 4–6 pea-sized drops for an area of roughly one square metre. Then start at 5–10 kg pressure at 800 RPM and move evenly across the area you're working. The higher pressure activates the abrasives and makes sure the defects come out efficiently. This phase takes about 30 seconds per square metre and is the actual cutting step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePhase 2 follows straight after: drop the pressure to 1–2 kg, raise the speed to 1200 RPM. Now the SP \"06-02\" switches into the refining phase. The abrasives, now finer, level the surface created in phase 1 and produce the even, defined finish that's the ideal starting point for the follow-up FS polish. This phase takes about 60 seconds per square metre. Then lift the residue with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under good lighting — ideally with an LED inspection lamp. If defects are still showing, repeat the phase before you lay on the next polish. The crosshatch pattern matters here: even overlaps of 50 % of the pad face prevent transitions and uneven cutting depths.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical note on pad choice: the SONAX PROFILINE wool pad delivers the highest cut with the SP \"06-02\" and is first choice on hard-to-reach defects or large-area weathering damage. The hard foam pad offers a bit less aggression but a more even finish and less heat build-up — ideal on more delicate paints or when you want tighter control over the cut. So the call between the pads comes down to the paint's condition and the job: the more aggressive the defects, the more it's wool; the more delicate the paint, the more it's the hard foam pad. If you've got both pads in the set, you can switch from wool to the foam pad after the first round to harmonise the finish further before the FS 05-04 — that often saves a separate polishing pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the SP \"06-02\" the paint is in a state that still shows holograms and fine sanding marks under direct light — that's intended and expected. The follow-up polish's job is exactly that: to refine this defined finish further, until the paint sits there hologram-free and high-gloss. Using the SP \"06-02\" as your only polish and laying a wax over it wouldn't get you anywhere — it's the first step, not the last.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when the SP \"06-02\" is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" bites in situations where medium-cut polishes no longer cut it: freshly resprayed panels with orange-peel or sanding-grit marks, cars with deep swirl marks after years without professional correction, heavily weathered single-stage paints on classic cars, and above all follow-up work after wet-sanding with P1000–P1200. In damage repair — after hail damage with small sanding spots, after bird-dropping etches that have gone deep into the clear coat — the SP \"06-02\" is the tool of choice, because the medium polishes don't fully reach the depth of that damage. In overspray removal too, where you need the abrasive action to sand off the deposited foreign-paint particles, the SP \"06-02\" shows its full strength.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" has its limits on extremely thin or already heavily thinned paints. On cars that have already been professionally corrected several times and whose clear coat has little thickness left, you should measure the paint thickness before reaching for a heavy-cut product. That's no failing of the SP \"06-02\" — it's a general principle of any abrasive work that gets factored in automatically in pro use. Used correctly, the SP \"06-02\" removes defined and controllable amounts of clear coat and isn't a tool for the occasional user with no rotary experience. Professional detailers generally recommend always working a test area in a less visible spot before the first pass on an unknown car, to get a feel for the paint hardness and the cut — every paint reacts a little differently, and what works fine on a soft Japanese clear coat needs clearly more machine pressure and dwell time on a hard German clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" in the polish system — the three-step PROFILINE workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE polish system is designed as a matched three-step system. Step one: the SP \"06-02\" as a heavy-cut compound removes the coarse defects and creates the defined finish. Step two: the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur\"\u003ePROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/a\u003e — a medium-cut finishing polish with cut level 5 and gloss level 4 — refines the SP \"06-02\" result and clears the holograms and sanding marks left in the first step. Step three: the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003ePROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e brings the final high gloss with cut level 3 and gloss level 6 and leaves the paint in a mark-free state, ready for every sealant and protective product. This grading from 6 through 5 and 4 to 3 and 6 is no accident — it mirrors a carefully developed progression that does exactly what the next step needs at every stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've got fewer defects and want to get by with a single polish, you can reach for the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003ePROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e — a high-speed cutting polish built for one-step use on dual-action and rotary machines. The UltimateCut is aggressive and efficient, but not as strongly cutting as the SP \"06-02\", and it delivers a better finish at the same time — a trade-off that makes sense for a lot of everyday jobs. If instead you need maximum cut with a clearly defined follow-up workflow — and that's the typical demand in professional paint correction — you're best set up with the SP \"06-02\" in a full three-step system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the SONAX PROFILINE SP 06-02 pays off for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" is the right tool for professional detailers, painters and keen enthusiasts who work with the rotary polisher and want to tackle demanding paint defects systematically. It pays off whenever medium polishes no longer cut it: after wet-sanding, on deep scratches, on overspray or on heavily weathered paints. If you're after a single heavy-cut solution for pro use, you'll find the SP \"06-02\" a reliable, easy-to-run product from a matched system. Together with the FS 05-04 and NP 03-06 you get a complete, scalable correction workflow that suits practically any task in professional paint polishing — from simple scratch removal to full paint restoration. The 250 ml bottle suits getting started and trying the system out, the 1 L container the daily pro use. Deciding on the SP 06-02 also means deciding on a clear way of working: not fast and with cut corners, but systematic and with a result. For keen hobby detailers working their way into professional paint correction, the SP system is an excellent way in — the clear levels and the predictable behaviour make it easier to understand and fine-tune your own approach. For pros correcting cars every day, the SP \"06-02\" is a reliable constant in the workflow you can lean on without surprises. And for bodyshops that offer correction work alongside repairs, it's the right tool to tackle even the most stubborn paint damage systematically and with a reproducible result.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":57345086554447,"sku":"D1-SNX-3201410","price":13.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-sp-06-02_250ml.png?v=1774731897"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-os-04-05-hochglanz-politur-one-step","title":"PROFILINE OS \"04-05\" High-Gloss Polish (One-Step)","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePaint correction and high gloss in a single pass — the PROFILINE OS \"04-05\" put to work\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE OS \"04-05\" do? This one-step polish pairs medium cut with strong gloss — scratch correction and finishing in one pass, silicone-free and machine-ready for pro detailing and reconditioning work.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn pro reconditioning, efficiency feeds straight into the bottom line. A polish that delivers correction and finishing in a single pass doesn't just save time — it also cuts machine effort, pad wear and the fiddly swapping between polishing stages. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS \"04-05\"\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for exactly that: a one-step polish with medium cut and strong gloss that corrects scratches and lays down a deep high gloss in one machine pass. Available in 250 ml and 1000 ml, silicone-free formula — made for pro detailing and bodyshop use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCorrection and finishing in one pass for efficient turnaround.\u003c\/strong\u003e If you want to polish lightly to moderately scratched paint without running two separate stages, the OS \"04-05\" handles both jobs in a single session. The time saved per car is real — especially in a commercial setting, where every hour you claw back goes straight to the margin.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium cut corrects fine to medium scratches without eating into the clear coat.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasiveness is dialled in to clear holograms, wash marring and fine to medium oxidation with confidence. For most cars in everyday condition this cut is plenty — without needlessly burning through precious clear-coat thickness with abrasives that are too aggressive.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free formula for bodyshop use with no contamination risk.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone in care products is a headache for paint jobs: it stops top coats and clear coats from keying, and a quick clean rarely gets it fully off. The silicone-free formula of the OS \"04-05\" makes it a fit for bodyshops that go on to touch up or repaint the cars they've reconditioned.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The OS \"04-05\" gives its best on a medium foam pad on a dual-action polisher. Lay the product down evenly across the panel at low speed, then bring the speed up for the working pass. When the polish turns from cloudy to clear as you work it — a telltale sign the abrasives are breaking down — that's the sweet spot to buff off. Switch to a clean microfibre for the buff and check the result in raking light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe OS numbering explained — what 04-05 tells you about cut and gloss\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX labels its PROFILINE polishes with a pair of numbers that tell you straight away what the product does: the first number is the cut, the second is the gloss. The scale runs from 1 (minimal) to 6 (maximal). That puts the OS \"04-05\" at medium-to-strong cut with high gloss to match — an ideal combo for a one-step approach: enough bite for real correction work, enough gloss for a finish you can show off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"OS\" in the name stands for \"One-Step\" — the idea of rolling cut and gloss into a single product. Classic two-step workflows start with a heavy-cut compound that mechanically removes scratches, then follow with a finishing polish that clears holograms and builds depth. The OS line drops that second step: the abrasive particles cut aggressively at first, then break down into smaller particles that create the final finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range has several OS variants built for different starting points and paint conditions. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-os-02-06-hochglanz-politur-versiegelung-one-step\"\u003ePROFILINE OS \"02-06\"\u003c\/a\u003e has less cut (02) with even higher gloss (06) and a built-in wax sealant — it's the right call for near-new or already reconditioned paint that only needs a care polish with no real correction. The OS \"04-05\" cuts harder and is aimed at paint in typical everyday condition with fine to medium scratches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe idea of breaking-down abrasives — known as diminishing abrasives — is a make-or-break factor for the quality of a one-step polish. Cheap products with fixed abrasives cut evenly aggressive from start to finish; the leftover on the buff can then leave coarse polishing marks in the paint that force a follow-up finishing step. With the OS \"04-05\" the abrasives break up more and more under pressure and heat, get progressively finer, and automatically create a finer surface by the end of the pass. That physical process is the core reason pro-grade one-step polishes work — and why cheap all-in-one polishes can't replace them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the one-step polish — a machine-friendly workflow for DA and rotary\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS \"04-05\" is built for machine application. By hand you'll barely get a one-step polish with this cut to work properly, because the pressure and speed for full scratch correction just aren't there. In a pro setting you're reaching for either a dual-action polisher or a rotary — both work with the OS \"04-05\", but they give different results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith the dual-action polisher (DA), the margin for error is far bigger than on a rotary: the random motion of the DA stops holograms and swirls from forming, even if the machine dwells a moment longer in one spot. That makes the DA the go-to for anyone stepping into machine work and for shops that want high throughput with a consistent result. A medium foam pad in the 135–145 mm range is the one to reach for with the one-step polish on a DA.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith a rotary you get more cut from the same polish — and on heavily scratched paint that can make a real difference. The rotary asks for more experience, because overheating and holograms are on the table if the pad and movement speed aren't right. A softer pad than you'd run on the DA helps keep the hologram risk down. For experienced detailers the rotary paired with the OS \"04-05\" is a very fast combo for correction work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGetting the amount right is an underrated factor: too little polish on the pad dries out too fast and won't cut evenly. Too much flings off the pad at high speed and just wastes product with nothing to show for it. As a rough guide: about four to five pea-sized dots on the pad for a standard panel like a bonnet or driver's door. Before the first pass, spread the pad slowly over the panel before you bring the speed up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePad care between panels is another quality factor that's easy to overlook day-to-day. A caked pad with dried-on polish residue cuts worse than a fresh one and can even put scratches into delicate surfaces. In a pro setting a pad washer or a pad cleaning brush pays off, so you can clean the pad regularly through a long detailing session. Otherwise, keep a stack of pads on hand so there's always a fresh one ready without breaking your flow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it works and where it stops — which paints and scratch patterns suit the OS \"04-05\"\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS \"04-05\" covers the widest working range in the PROFILINE one-step line. Cars in normal everyday condition — parking marring, wash swirls, fine holograms from earlier work, light weathering oxidation — are ideal candidates for the OS \"04-05\". In these cases a single pass is enough to bring a clearly better gloss level and a cleanly corrected surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS \"04-05\" hits its limit where deep scratches or heavily oxidised clear coats call for more cut. A deep scratch that catches your fingernail as you run it over reaches into the base coat or even through the clear — here you need a heavy-cut compound before a one-step polish makes any sense. On heavily matted surfaces with pronounced clear-coat oxidation, it also pays to start with an aggressive compound like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003ePROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\"\u003c\/a\u003e to prep the surface before the OS \"04-05\" takes over the finishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS \"04-05\" has proven itself especially for used-car intake and trade-ins: cars with no known reconditioning history, where you have to judge the paint without a lengthy inspection, are quick to size up with a test panel. If the one-step polish visibly clears scratches and builds gloss on a test area, the cut is enough. If it doesn't, it's clear a more aggressive product is needed first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that matters for commercial use: always run the test panel on a low-visibility spot — the B-pillar, say, or the lower edge of a rear door — so an unexpected result leaves no visible damage on a main panel. For shops that regularly work on cars of unknown origin and prior treatment, a structured polishing triage is a must: decontamination first, then the test panel, then the call on which product to run for the full detail. That approach heads off costly mistakes and gives the customer a consistently good result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn high-gloss paint in darker colours — black, anthracite, dark blue — polishing marks show up especially clearly. If you spot holograms on these tones after the pass, you can optionally add a short refining step with a soft finishing pad and the lighter \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003ePROFILINE NP \"03-06\"\u003c\/a\u003e to clear any remaining fine marks and deepen the gloss a touch more. In most cases, though, that's not needed on light to medium tones — with the right pad the one-step polish leaves a hologram-free, deep high-gloss result right off the bat, ready to show.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe OS \"04-05\" in context — where it sits in the PROFILINE polish matrix\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE polish range has the right product for every level of correction. To make the right call, it helps to look at the whole spread: on one side the heavy-cut compounds with high cut and low gloss, on the other the finishing polishes with minimal cut and maximum gloss. The OS products sit across that as one-step solutions: they skip the highest cut grades but pair practical correction with good gloss numbers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHead to head with the OS \"02-06\", the difference is clearly the situation you're in: the OS \"02-06\" is a care polish with wax sealant for regularly maintained cars that need no correction — it shines beautifully and seals at the same time, but has next to no bite for scratches. The OS \"04-05\" is the one-step answer for cars that need real correction. If you're working fleet cars that have picked up clear marks between intervals, you reach for the OS \"04-05\".\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst a classic two-step workflow with Cut+Finish \"5\/5\" followed by a finishing polish, the OS \"04-05\" saves time at the cost of maximum correction depth. If you want to bring a car up to show-car level, there's no getting around the two separate steps. For the everyday detailing operation that does several cars a day in reasonable time and wants a good — but not perfection-chasing — result, the OS \"04-05\" is the more economical call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical decision framework for picking the polish: if the car after washing and decontamination shows only fine wash swirls under an LED lamp and no deep scratches — the OS \"04-05\" is enough. If deep individual scratches or patches of heavy oxidation are present — start with Cut+Finish or a heavy-cut polish, then optionally finish with the OS \"04-05\". If the car was freshly reconditioned only a few months back — the OS \"02-06\" for care with no real removal. Those three scenarios cover the bulk of daily reconditioning work, and for the middle case the one-step polish with the 04-05 rating is usually the right answer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the SONAX PROFILINE OS \"04-05\" is right for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS \"04-05\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the polish for pro detailers who work cars every day and want a reliable one-step solution for the standard case. Dealerships, used-car traders, rental fleets and mobile detailers all benefit from a product that delivers a clean result in a single pass on typical everyday condition. The 1000 ml bottle is made for continuous use; the 250 ml bottle suits the individual user or testing before a bulk order.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe silicone-free formula also makes the polish a fit for shops that offer both detailing and paint repair under one roof. If you take reconditioned cars into the spray booth afterwards or do partial repaints, you have to be sure that polish residue won't cause fish-eyes, wetting problems or adhesion issues in fresh top coat. With the silicone-free formula of the one-step polish, that risk factor is reliably off the table.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 stocks the one-step polish in both bottle sizes and is happy to help pick the right one-step product for your particular use. If you're unsure which OS variant suits your needs better, the best move is to describe the typical paint condition of the cars you work on — then we can make the recommendation precise. For shops new to the PROFILINE polish range, the 250 ml bottle is the sensible way in, to dial in pad choice and machine settings on a test car before ordering the 1-litre bottle for full-time use.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":57345087308111,"sku":"D1-SNX-2121410","price":16.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57345087340879,"sku":"D1-SNX-2123000","price":43.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-os-04-05_1liter.png?v=1774731877"}],"url":"https:\/\/detiiling1.com\/collections\/sonax-politur.oembed","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}