{"title":"PROFILINE from SONAX","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSonax PROFILINE: professional car care built for demanding B2B customers\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTake professional car care to a new level with \u003cstrong\u003eSonax PROFILINE\u003c\/strong\u003e. This range was built specifically for detailers and enthusiasts who won't compromise on quality. Backed by innovative, high-performance formulas and years of car-care know-how, the PROFILINE range gives you the right answer for standout results in vehicle detailing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAdvanced technologies:\u003c\/strong\u003e highly developed formulas for deep cleaning and reliable protection in commercial use.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eComplete lineup:\u003c\/strong\u003e from paint care and ceramic sealants through interior cleaning to specialist products for every job.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEasy to use:\u003c\/strong\u003e professional results without complicated steps, so you work fast and efficiently.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003chr\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eAn innovative range for professional standards\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSonax PROFILINE\u003c\/strong\u003e offers a broad product lineup tailored to what professional detailers actually need. From strong polishing compounds through glass and plastic cleaners to long-lasting paint sealants – every product is the result of serious research and development. The PROFILINE range lets you work precisely and gently, bringing the paint back to a fresh shine while protecting the vehicle's value for the long run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eAdvanced formulas for flawless surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith Sonax PROFILINE you get advanced formulas that deliver maximum cleaning power and protection. Thanks to specially developed ingredients, the products work deep into the surface and lift even stubborn dirt with ease. Every job turns into a showpiece – whether you're polishing, sealing or cleaning. They're especially effective on paint that comes out looking like new and stays protected against the elements.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3\u003eUser-friendly application for the best possible results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe products in the Sonax PROFILINE range are built to go on easily and efficiently – ideal for pros and enthusiasts who want top results without the hassle. Because they're so easy to handle, even bigger care projects are no problem, which saves you time and energy. PROFILINE keeps professional car care simple and delivers perfect surfaces that stand up to the highest demands.\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur","title":"PROFILINE MetalPolish Metal Polish (Medium-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBringing tarnished metal back to a mirror shine — with the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish do? This medium-cut metal polish takes tarnish, oxidation, light rust and dullness off aluminium, brass, chrome and stainless steel — and brings metal surfaces back to a near-mirror shine.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolished metal loses its shine over time — oxygen, moisture, UV and airborne acids leave tarnish, oxide layers and that typical dull haze plain cleaning won't shift. That's where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in: a high-gloss polish with a medium cut that uses quality abrasive minerals to take tarnish and oxide layers down gently and expose the mirror-bright surface underneath. The formula runs on every common metal — aluminium, brass, chrome, stainless steel — and does it without harsh acids or alkalis, which can leave corrosion damage on sensitive metal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium cut for a wide working range.\u003c\/strong\u003e The medium-cut lets you polish quickly even on heavily tarnished or dull metal, without taking off too much or damaging more delicate surfaces. For most jobs — exhaust tips, polished aluminium rim beds, chrome trim, stainless steel panels — the medium cut is the right starting point: visible results without pulling off material you don't need to lose.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks on every common metal surface.\u003c\/strong\u003e Aluminium, brass, chrome, stainless steel, copper — the polish runs on all of them with no compatibility headaches. It has proven itself on motorcycle parts, exhaust systems, wheels, boat fittings and polished-metal kitchenware, wherever you need both cleaning power and a proper high-gloss result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-gloss finish straight out of the tube.\u003c\/strong\u003e After polishing you get a near-mirror high-gloss finish that needs no separate follow-up. That saves you a step compared with two-stage systems, where you cut first and then have to come back with a pure finisher — with the PROFILINE MetalPolish the cutting and finishing phases are rolled into one pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results, clean and dry the metal properly before you polish — dirt particles sitting on the surface cut deeper scratches than the abrasive in the polish ever does. Lay the MetalPolish onto a clean, soft cotton cloth or polishing pad and work in small sections with round, overlapping passes. Don't go too thin — the paste should stay visible on the surface until it sets up and goes slightly cloudy. Then buff it off with a clean cloth and check what you've got. Heavily tarnished areas may need a second pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMedium-cut metal polish — how the medium cut actually works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA metal polish works through controlled micro-abrasion: fine abrasive grains in the paste take down the top layer of oxidation, tarnish and micro-scratches while smoothing the metal underneath. The finer the grain, the higher the gloss you can reach, but the longer the working time on badly damaged surfaces. The medium cut of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is a deliberate compromise: strong enough to pull off clear tarnish and moderate oxide layers in one pass, fine enough to lay down a high-gloss finish right away, with no separate finishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive minerals in the formula are picked to work gently on metal and not to remove excessive material. That matters most on thinly plated chrome or coated aluminium: an abrasive that is too aggressive can work straight through the protective layer and expose the base material underneath, which speeds up corrosion. The medium abrasion of the MetalPolish keeps that risk at a controlled level and is matched to the typical thickness of chrome and aluminium plating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is an important conceptual difference to paint polishes like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e: paint polishes are formulated for organic polymer layers (clear coat), metal polishes for inorganic metal surfaces. The abrasive grains are chosen differently, and the carrier paste is matched to how metal grips and conducts heat. These products aren't interchangeable — a paint polish on metal won't give you optimal results, and a metal polish on clear coat can leave scratches depending on how hard the abrasive is. So use the MetalPolish only on bare, unpainted metal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter polishing — once the product you laid down has hazed over and been buffed off with the cloth — the MetalPolish leaves no annoying oily film or residue. The metal comes out fresh, bright and grippy. An optional follow-up seal with a metal protectant or a wax film stretches out how long it takes to tarnish again, and it is well worth it on exterior chrome trim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing metal polish properly — step by step for maximum shine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e works by hand as well as on a rotary machine. By hand: put a hazelnut-sized blob of polish onto a clean cotton cloth, a polishing towel or a soft polishing block. Spread it over the metal in circles or straight lines — not too fast, with even pressure, in small sections of about 20×20 cm. Let the polish sit until it has dried slightly and looks milky-cloudy (typically 30–60 seconds at room temperature), then buff it off with a clean, dry cotton cloth. The result shows immediately: the cloudy residue holds the dissolved oxide and the dirt you have just taken off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn a machine (rotary or dual action): pick a pad that suits your machine — for the MetalPolish a medium-firm polishing pad or a cotton polishing disc does the job. Keep the speed low (rotary: about 1000–1500 rpm, DA: setting 3–4) and move evenly across the surface. Machine polishing on metal saves a lot of time and the mechanical pressure gives you more even results than hand polishing, but it takes a bit more practice to avoid overheating edges and corners. After the machine pass, buff off the same way you would by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHeavily tarnished or deeply oxidised surfaces may need a second pass. Important: after each pass, check with a clean cloth whether you have hit the result you want before you set up more polishing rounds — over-polishing takes off material for nothing without improving the finish any further.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMetal polish applications — where the MetalPolish hits hardest\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe MetalPolish shows its strength anywhere polished metal has gone dull and tired from the weather. On the car: chrome trim, aluminium wheel lips, stainless steel sills, exhaust tips and systems (always work on cold parts!), motorcycle headers, aluminium engine covers and motorsport parts in polished aluminium or titanium. The results are most striking on exhaust systems, which develop the typical tarnish colours under heat — blue, golden brown, purple. In many cases a metal polish takes them off completely or nearly so and gives the exhaust its original metal finish back. On titanium components (racing, high-performance exhausts) the tarnish colours often count as a feature — so think it through before you polish and decide whether you really want the original finish or whether the colours should stay on purpose.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith alloy wheels you need to make one important distinction: bare, uncoated aluminium wheels (rare, but common in the classic-car and motorsport world) can be worked directly with metal polish. Standard new and used car wheels, on the other hand, carry a clear coat or are anodised — keep metal polish off those, because the abrasion attacks the clear coat. The right approach on painted wheels is a paint polish, not a metal polish. If in doubt: test a tiny patch somewhere out of sight before you take on the whole wheel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAway from the car the MetalPolish is just as capable: boat fittings and propellers in brass or stainless steel, stainless railings and handrails, polished brass fittings, historic pieces in silver or bronze, kitchenware in polished stainless steel. Where it runs out of road is painted or anodised metal — those protective layers shouldn't be mechanically polished. Anodised alloy wheels or powder-coated parts are therefore not suitable jobs for a metal polish, whichever product you use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMetal polish compared — PROFILINE MetalPolish vs. XTREME MetalPolish and alternatives\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere are two metal polishes in the SONAX range: the PROFILINE version and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-metalpolish-metallpolitur\"\u003eSONAX XTREME MetalPolish\u003c\/a\u003e. Both take tarnish and oxidation off metal, but they differ in pack size and positioning. The XTREME MetalPolish (150 ml tube) is aimed at hobby detailers and occasional users who prefer a handy pack size for smaller jobs and one-offs. The PROFILINE MetalPolish (250 ml) is built for regular users and businesses who polish more often and want to keep a slightly bigger amount on the shelf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn terms of content, both products use comparable abrasive minerals for the medium cut — the real difference sits less in how they work than in size and positioning: PROFILINE is the pro line for regular use, XTREME the consumer pack for home use. If you work in a business or regularly detail motorcycles, cars or boats, you grab the PROFILINE; if you polish up your wheels or your exhaust now and then, the XTREME MetalPolish serves you just as well.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor special jobs it is worth a look at the rest of the SONAX PROFILINE range: the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/a\u003e is built for glass — scratches and water spots in windscreens or rear windows — and works with cerium oxide abrasive technology on a completely different class of material than the MetalPolish. If you are putting together a full detailing kit that covers both paint and metal work, the SONAX PROFILINE range has the right specialist polish for every material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish — recommendation and who it is for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pick for anyone who polishes metal regularly and wants a reliable, proven pro product for the job. The 250 ml tube goes a long way — one full exhaust system, a whole motorcycle, several pieces of chrome trim — and its medium cut gives you maximum flexibility: from the occasional exhaust refresh to systematically working through a complete vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlongside the polish, a set of good cotton cloths or polishing applicators is worth having for even results when you work by hand. Important: don't use microfibre towels to buff bright polished metal — microfibre loops can leave fine scratches on high-gloss metal that you simply don't get with cotton. For machine polishing, cotton polishing discs or medium-soft foam pads are the right call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want a lasting protective layer after polishing that clearly slows down fresh tarnish, plan a metal-sealing step after the MetalPolish: a thin wax film, a metal protectant oil or in some cases a ceramic coating can stretch the life of that polished look from a few weeks to several months, especially on exterior parts that take the weather. It pays off most on exhaust systems you have put real work into and on motorcycle chrome, where you want the result to last as long as possible. For hobby detailers who polish the odd metal part now and then, the PROFILINE MetalPolish in the 250 ml tube will last many years — the tube goes a long way and the product keeps indefinitely if you store it properly (cool, dry, closed).\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53502874386767,"sku":"D1-SNX-02041410","price":19.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506187526479,"sku":"D1-SNX-2041410_2","price":38.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506187559247,"sku":"D1-SNX-2041410_3","price":58.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur.png?v=1730405721"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-reinigungsschaum","title":"PROFILINE ActiFoam \"Energy\" Cleaning Foam (Snow Foam)","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eScratch-free pre-wash with SONAX ActiFoam Energy\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is SONAX ActiFoam Energy? A pH-neutral snow foam cleaner (pH 6.5–7.5) from SONAX that chemically loosens bug splatter, road film and light fallout during the contactless pre-wash — without attacking wax layers, ceramic coatings or wraps. Not meant as a standalone cleaner for baked-on tar or heavy industrial fallout.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX ActiFoam Energy\u003c\/strong\u003e is a highly concentrated cleaning foam from the SONAX PROFILINE range, whipped into a thick, clinging snow foam through a foam lance on your pressure washer. The surfactant mix of anionic and non-ionic surfactants — among them Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Lauramine Oxide — builds a creamy foam that sits on vertical panels instead of running straight off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOver a dwell time of two to five minutes, the surfactants break the bond between dirt particles and the paint. Most of the grime rinses off without contact. That cuts the risk of dragging grit like sandpaper across the paint with your mitt during the wash that follows — the real win over reaching straight for the wash mitt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-snow-foam-vorwaesche.jpg?v=1776079273\" alt=\"SONAX ActiFoam Energy snow foam pre-wash on a Porsche 911\" width=\"1200\" height=\"896\" loading=\"lazy\"\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eContactless pre-clean with a stable clinging foam.\u003c\/strong\u003e The active foam lays down evenly across the whole body and clings to vertical panels for two to five minutes. In that window the surfactant formula gets under bonded road grime, bug splatter and light brake dust. The result after rinsing: a noticeably cleaner surface where the wash mitt glides with almost no resistance.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH-neutral and sealant-safe on every wash.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a pH value of 6.5 to 7.5, ActiFoam Energy leaves carnauba wax, ceramic coatings, polymer sealants and wraps untouched. That sets it apart from alkaline pre-cleaners (pH 10–13), which shorten the life of your sealant with weekly use.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne litre covers 15 to 20 pre-washes.\u003c\/strong\u003e At a dose of 50 to 80 ml per foam-lance fill, a pre-wash with the 1-litre bottle costs about 0.80 EUR. With the 5-litre canister the price drops to around 0.42 EUR per use — more economical than most imported products in the snow foam segment.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always lay the foam down on a dry body, not a wet one. Dry paint gives the foam far more grip and noticeably stretches the dwell time. Above 25 °C work panel by panel and don't let the foam dry on, or it leaves residue you'll only have to scrub off later. Warm water (30–40 °C) in the foam lance pushes the cleaning power up a notch — worth it in winter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFoam lance, pump sprayer or bucket. Three ways, one formula.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX ActiFoam Energy works in three scenarios, each needing a different dilution. The foam lance gives the best result, but pump sprayer and hand wash do the job too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the \u003cstrong\u003efoam lance on the pressure washer\u003c\/strong\u003e you mix 50 to 80 ml of concentrate into one litre of total volume — that's a ratio of 1:10 to 1:20. Less water (1:10) gives denser, drier foam with a longer dwell. More water (1:20) covers bigger areas but runs off vertical panels faster. Start at 1:15 and dial it in from there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the \u003cstrong\u003epump sprayer\u003c\/strong\u003e you work with 15 to 25 ml per litre of water — ideal for targeted spots like wheel arches, door shuts or the front end full of bug splatter. As a \u003cstrong\u003ehand-wash shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e you dissolve 50 to 80 ml in a 10-litre bucket of warm water. That said, ActiFoam Energy lacks the lubricity that shampoos bring for mitt glide. For regular contact washing as your only shampoo, there are better options.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn often underrated factor in dosing is water temperature. Warm water (30–40 °C) noticeably boosts the cleaning power of the surfactants — in the foam lance and in the bucket alike. In winter, when you're working with ice-cold tap water, it pays to bump the dose up slightly or warm the water first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou get the best foam quality with an adjustable \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-powerfoamer-schaumzerstauber\"\u003efoam lance\u003c\/a\u003e at 90 to 120 bar. A cheap universal lance limits the result, not the product. To put the economy in perspective: at a dose of 60 ml per wash through the foam lance, a pre-wash with the 5-litre canister costs about 0.42 EUR. Wash one car a week and the canister carries you through a year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-schaumlanze-anwendung.jpg?v=1776079277\" alt=\"SONAX ActiFoam Energy applied with a foam lance\" width=\"896\" height=\"1200\" loading=\"lazy\"\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eIt loosens bug splatter. Not tar.\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX ActiFoam Energy reliably loosens regular road grime, dried-on bug splatter and light fallout in the contactless pre-wash — that's its home turf. Especially through the summer months you save yourself the separate bug remover as a step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt hits its limits with heavily baked-on tar and hard industrial fallout. Tar doesn't react to the surfactant formula — for that you need a dedicated solvent-based tar remover. For fallout on wheels, an acidic iron remover like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast\u003c\/a\u003e does the trick. And a snow foam never replaces the contact wash that follows — it makes it safer by pulling most of the loose particles off first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhat sets ActiFoam Energy apart from plain car shampoos in the foam lance is the cleaning power in contactless mode. A shampoo is built as a lubricant for the wash mitt, not as a standalone pre-cleaner. ActiFoam Energy was formulated specifically for use as a snow foam: the phosphate-free recipe loosens even dried-on bug splatter without any mechanical work. The signature energy-drink scent is no accident but a deliberate working companion — a real comfort gain over cleaners with a sharp chemical smell, especially in closed garages.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day, this workflow has proven itself: lay ActiFoam Energy down over the whole body through the foam lance, bottom to top. Use the dwell time to work the wheels with a dedicated wheel cleaner in parallel. Then rinse everything off with the pressure washer — top to bottom, so the loosened dirt drains away. Only then do you bring in the wash mitt with fresh shampoo water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor prepping used cars or customer vehicles in a detailing business, ActiFoam Energy is a solid first step too: it takes off the coarse dirt, shows you which areas are really problematic, and gives you a clean baseline to judge the paint condition. Only after the pre-wash can you reliably tell whether a car needs polishing or a simple sealant will do.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-ergebnis-sauberer-lack.jpg?v=1776079279\" alt=\"SONAX ActiFoam Energy result, clean paint after the pre-wash\" width=\"896\" height=\"1200\" loading=\"lazy\"\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eYour way into the pre-wash routine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX ActiFoam Energy sits between classic car shampoos and alkaline pre-cleaners. Stronger than a shampoo, but gentle enough for weekly use on sealed and wrapped vehicles. If you run a car with a ceramic coating, PPF film or carnauba wax, this product fits your wash routine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIt's less suited to heavily soiled workshop vehicles or the first prep of a used car after months of neglect — here you're better off with an alkaline cleaner that has more cleaning power, but you'll need to renew the sealant afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone after a shampoo for contact washing alone, with no foam lance, will find a dedicated car shampoo the better pick. ActiFoam Energy is no all-rounder — it's a specialist for the contactless pre-wash, and that's exactly where its strength lies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate comes in two sizes: a 1-litre bottle to get started and a 5-litre canister for high-volume washers and detailing businesses. The canister gives the better price per litre and covers 60 to 100 pre-washes at a weekly wash rhythm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've been working with a plain all-purpose cleaner in the foam lance before, you'll notice the difference in foam density and cling right away. Cheaper snow foams throw out plenty of foam, but it's thin and runs off vertical panels within seconds. ActiFoam Energy produces a creamy, clinging foam that holds noticeably longer even on doors and A-pillars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs your way into the SONAX PROFILINE wash workflow, you pair ActiFoam Energy with a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003epaint clean-up after the wash\u003c\/a\u003e — and you've got a pre-wash routine that protects your paint and leaves it visibly cleaner before the wash mitt even comes into play. This two-step process sounds like extra effort but saves polishing work long-term, because the wash-scratch rate drops measurably — especially on dark colours, where even the finest swirls show up instantly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-1-liter-5-liter.jpg?v=1776079283\" alt=\"SONAX ActiFoam Energy 1 litre and 5 litre sizes\" width=\"1200\" height=\"896\" loading=\"lazy\"\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53505264025935,"sku":"D1-SNX-6183000","price":14.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53505768292687,"sku":"D1-SNX-6183000_2","price":28.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53505768325455,"sku":"D1-SNX-6183000_3","price":43.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53505264976207,"sku":"D1-SNX-6185050","price":39.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-reinigungsschaum.png?v=1730449785"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-multistar-all-purpose-cleaner-universalreiniger","title":"PROFILINE MultiStar \"All-Purpose-Cleaner\" Universal Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eOne concentrate for every cleaning job — SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar do? This versatile all-purpose cleaner concentrate cuts through grease, oils, flash rust and general grime on vehicle surfaces inside and out — at a dilution you set yourself for different cleaning strengths, and in bulk containers up to 200 litres for cost-effective pro use.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn detailing businesses, wash bays and fleet care centres, the need for a reliable, cost-effective all-purpose cleaner is constant and high. Separate products for the interior, exterior paint, engine bay, wheels and machinery mean more stock to hold, frequent reorders and needless complexity. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/strong\u003e is the universal concentrate cleaner for all of these jobs: an alkaline cleaning formula that, across different dilution levels, handles most cleaning tasks in the vehicle and workplace — and thanks to container sizes from 1 litre to 200 litres it scales economically to any operation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUniversally usable thanks to a variable dilution system.\u003c\/strong\u003e The MultiStar ships as a concentrate and you dilute it with water before use — the dilution rate sets the cleaning strength: low dilution (1:5 to 1:10) for heavy grime like engine oil, bitumen residue and stubborn dirt; medium dilution (1:20 to 1:50) for general vehicle cleaning; high dilution (1:50 to 1:100) for more sensitive areas such as interior plastics or lighter soiling. One concentrate, lots of uses.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAlkaline formula reliably breaks down organic contaminants.\u003c\/strong\u003e The MultiStar's alkaline surfactant formula is tuned to dissolve organic grime: grease, oils, brake dust, tyre rubber and general vehicle dirt are loosened and made water-soluble by the combination of an alkaline pH and active surfactants. The formula plays nicely with most common vehicle surfaces — paint, plastic, rubber, metal and textile all respond well to the cleaner when you dilute it properly.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBulk containers up to 200 litres for cost-effective pro use.\u003c\/strong\u003e Container sizes run from 1 litre for small businesses and occasional users up to 200-litre drums for large operations and wash bays. The price per litre drops sharply as the container gets bigger, which makes the MultiStar especially appealing for businesses burning through large amounts of cleaner every day. The concentrate approach also cuts transport weight and storage space considerably compared with ready-to-use cleaners.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For effective use we'd keep the MultiStar ready in labelled spray bottles at different dilutions — e.g. 1:10 for engine bay and wheels, 1:30 for general exterior cleaning, 1:50 for the interior. That way the right strength is always within reach without mixing fresh every time. Don't use it on paint in direct sun or on a very hot surface — alkaline cleaners drying off fast can leave streaks. For acid-resistant grime (limescale, mineral deposits) the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-acid-kraftreiniger-sauer\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Acid\u003c\/a\u003e is the better call, since alkaline cleaners can't drive the acidic dissolving reactions. Always rinse thoroughly to pull off any cleaner residue — especially on paint and rubber.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eConcentrate technology — why dilution is what makes the MultiStar so flexible\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate approach of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/strong\u003e brings a decisive economic and logistical edge over ready-to-use cleaners: the cleaning agents (surfactants, alkalis, builders) ship in highly concentrated form and only get diluted with water at the point of use. That means a 1-litre concentrate container holds the cleaning power for 50–100 litres of ready-to-use cleaner — a 1-litre tub of concentrate cleans as much as a 50-litre tub of ready-to-use cleaner, but carries only a fraction of the weight and volume.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe MultiStar's alkaline action rests on two mechanisms: first, the alkaline pH (typically pH 9–11 in the concentrate) raises the solubility of organic fat molecules — in an alkaline environment, fats and oils are saponified, which makes them water-soluble and easier to wipe off. Second, the surfactants wrap soil particles through micelle formation and suspend them in the watery cleaning solution, so they get carried off with the water when you rinse. This combination is very effective against most organic vehicle grime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe dilution flexibility lets you use the same base cleaner for very different cleaning strengths: in the engine bay, where stubborn oil and grease come off hard, heat-resistant surfaces, a strong concentration (1:5) is right and the surfaces handle the higher alkalinity. For the cabin, where delicate plastics, textiles and Alcantara get treated, a strong dilution (1:50 or more) is needed to avoid surface damage. Getting the ratio right is the key skill — too diluted and the cleaner doesn't bite; too little diluted and it can attack surfaces or leave residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses running the MultiStar through foam lances or pressure washers, foaming behaviour matters: at the right dilution and used in snow-foam pre-wash mode, the MultiStar foams evenly and clings, which extends dwell time on dirty surfaces and improves the cleaning result. You can tune the foam consistency through the dilution and the right foam-lance nozzles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the MultiStar right — dilution ratios for every job\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the MultiStar concentrate starts with the right dilution rate for the job at hand. For engine washing and heavy exterior grime: dilution 1:5 to 1:10 (10–20 % concentrate) — spray straight onto the dirty surface, let it dwell 2–3 minutes without drying off, then rinse with water. For wheel cleaning and underbody washing: dilution 1:10 to 1:20 (5–10 % concentrate) — same kind of application as the engine wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor general vehicle cleaning and pre-cleaning: dilution 1:20 to 1:50 (2–5 % concentrate) — suited as a foam-lance pre-cleaner or for hand washing with the sponge. This dilution is gentle on paint and plastic surfaces and leaves no damaging alkali residue. For interior cleaning and textiles: dilution 1:50 to 1:100 (1–2 % concentrate) — extra gentle on delicate surfaces; always test on an inconspicuous spot before going over Alcantara or sensitive coatings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKey application notes: always dilute the MultiStar fresh and don't store diluted solutions in spray bottles for long, since diluted alkaline solutions lose strength over time and can go off through microbial growth. When working with undiluted concentrate, watch your skin and eye protection — highly concentrated alkaline solutions can cause skin irritation. Keep the concentrate itself in dry, cool storage — undiluted and stored right, the concentrate stays stable for several years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the MultiStar fits — when the all-purpose cleaner is the most efficient choice\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/strong\u003e is especially efficient in businesses that want to cover a broad range of cleaning jobs with a single product. Detailing businesses with mixed vehicle types (cars, vans, trucks) value the flexibility: one concentrate unit can handle the van's engine bay, the car's interior clean and the truck's pre-clean — each at the right dilution. Stock keeping gets simpler, ordering gets leaner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFleet carers and fleet managers on regular cleaning cycles get the most out of the bulk containers: the 25-litre or 60-litre container keeps supply steady without frequent reorders, and the cheaper per-unit pricing on bulk cuts the cleaning cost per vehicle. The 200-litre drum is built for central cleaning installations where the cleaner feeds straight into machines or foam generators.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with specialised cleaners like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/a\u003e — developed as an optimised pre-cleaner for cold-foam pre-washing — the MultiStar offers a wider dilution range and more uses, but in turn less specialisation on the pre-wash side. If you only do pre-washing, you're better served by the MultiClean Alkaline; if you want a single cleaner for every job, the MultiStar concentrate has you covered.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe MultiStar compared — all-purpose cleaner vs. specialist cleaner in the pro shop\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhether an all-purpose cleaner concentrate like the MultiStar or a range of specialist cleaners is the better call comes down to how the business is set up. An all-purpose cleaner brings simplicity, savings through bulk and flexibility — ideal for smaller to mid-sized operations that don't want to cover every cleaning job with a dedicated product. For especially demanding jobs (limescale removal → acidic cleaner, wheels heavily loaded with iron particles → dedicated wheel cleaner, sensitive displays → SensitiveSurface Detailer) specialist products are clearly superior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA proven strategy in well-set-up detailing businesses is the combination: the MultiStar as the base all-purpose cleaner for 80 % of all daily cleaning jobs, backed by one to three specialist products for the cases where the all-purpose cleaner falls short. This setup maximises economic efficiency (one main product in bulk) while keeping cleaning performance optimal for specific needs. The combination MultiStar + MultiClean Acid + a dedicated wheel cleaner, for example, fully covers the whole spectrum of alkaline and acidic cleaning needs in the vehicle space.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst all-purpose cleaners from other makers, the SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar offers the edge of proven system compatibility with other PROFILINE products and a professional formulation built for the specific demands of the vehicle segment. Household all-purpose cleaners are often tuned for other surfaces (floors, glass) and can leave residue or streaks on vehicle paint and sensitive plastics. The PROFILINE concentrate is tested on vehicle applications and certified accordingly for its compatibility with vehicle surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar — containers, price tiers and shop recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 1 litre, 5 litres, 10 litres, 25 litres, 60 litres and 200 litres. For single users and small businesses the 1-litre container is a manageable entry size — the concentrate goes a long way and a litre lasts a small business several weeks or months. The 5-litre container is the most economical standard size for mid-sized operations, while the 25-litre canister is the go-to for larger businesses with daily demand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe price gap between the 1-litre and 60-litre containers is considerable — per 100 ml of concentrate, the price on the 60-litre container sits well below the price on the 1-litre. For wash bays and fleet care getting through several litres of cleaner a day, the investment in the big container pays off fast. The 200-litre drum is built for industrial cleaning installations and central supply setups, where the cleaner feeds straight into dosing pumps or automatic mixing systems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe bottom line: the SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar is the most economical choice for businesses after a reliable, flexibly usable all-purpose cleaner in professional quality. The concentrate approach, the wide dilution flexibility and the bulk availability make it the ideal base cleaner in the PROFILINE range — backed by specialist products for particular cleaning needs.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53505896055119,"sku":"D1-SNX-6273410","price":9.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53505896087887,"sku":"D1-SNX-6273410_2","price":18.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53505896120655,"sku":"D1-SNX-6273410_3","price":28.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53505896153423,"sku":"D1-SNX-6275050","price":39.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"10 liters","offer_id":53505904017743,"sku":"D1-SNX-6276000","price":69.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":53505904050511,"sku":"D1-SNX-6277050","price":169.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"60 liters","offer_id":53505904083279,"sku":"D1-SNX-6278000","price":510.03,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":53505904116047,"sku":"D1-SNX-6279000","price":1582.7,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-multistar-all-purpose-cleaner-universalreiniger.png?v=1730463356"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish","title":"PROFILINE NP \"03-06\" High-Gloss Polish (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFlawless high gloss as the final polishing step — SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06 do? This fine high-gloss finishing polish pulls out the last holograms and buffer trails, brings up a mirror-like clear-coat shine and gets the paint ready for sealants and ceramic coatings — perfect as the final polishing step after abrasive correction stages.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a multi-stage polishing job, the finishing polish is the real test of skill: it comes after the cutting polish and the medium correction polish, and its job is to clear out the last fine holograms, buffer trails and micro-scratches completely — leaving the clear coat with the kind of depth, clarity and reflection that sells a fresh detail. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro high-gloss finishing polish for exactly this last step: very fine cut, low haze, and a gloss that sets the paint up perfectly for sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUltra-fine cut for hologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 carries very finely milled abrasives that level the buffer trails left by cutting and medium polishes without laying down fresh scratches of their own. What you get is a paint surface with maximum reflection and minimal orange peel — the base for that mirror-deep gloss a freshly detailed car is meant to throw back at you.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBalanced viscosity for machine and hand work.\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 is mixed so it runs on rotary and dual-action machines just as well as by hand on small panels. The viscosity lets it spread evenly across the pad, keeps it from slinging during machine work and stops it drying out too fast — which really matters on bigger panels, where you need to keep the working time consistent.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eIdeal as a pre-coating step before sealing.\u003c\/strong\u003e A finishing polish before you seal isn't optional if maximum sealant durability and top gloss are the goal. The NP 03-06 leaves no protective film and no waxy fillers — once it's done, the clear coat is ready for the degrease step and the sealant, with no abrasive residue getting in the way of coating adhesion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The NP 03-06 gives its best with a finishing foam pad on a dual-action machine — speed 3–4 (depending on the model), slow, overlapping passes. For the last pass, drop the speed to 2–3 to keep heat down and even the result out. Dose the polish sparingly: a small amount on the pad, spread it by working it in slowly by hand, then switch the machine on. After polishing, buff the area off with a clean microfibre and check for holograms straight away — under raking light (side light) you'll spot any leftover buffer trails most clearly. Once that check passes, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e follows as the degrease step before sealing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAbrasive technology: how the NP 03-06 high-gloss finishing polish clears holograms\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA finishing polish works by mechanical micro-abrasion: the finely milled abrasives in the high-gloss polish cut the clear-coat surface at micrometre level, smoothing out the grooves and scratch marks left by earlier polishing stages and creating a surface that's as flat and uniform as possible. Light hitting a flat surface bounces back evenly — that's the physics behind the so-called depth gloss and the mirror reflection you see after a successful finishing polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe cut of the NP 03-06 is pitched just right for the final polishing stage: fine enough not to lay down new holograms, but still strong enough to clear out the buffer trails from the preceding medium correction polish completely. That balancing act is typical of finishing polishes — too fine a cut won't fully remove buffer trails, too coarse a cut creates holograms of its own that need another finishing pass to fix. The NP 03-06 carries the \"03-06\" in its name, which marks where it sits in the SONAX polishing range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother upside of finishing-polish technology is what detailers call \"darkening\" — on dark paint (black, dark blue, dark grey) a noticeably deeper colour comes up after the finishing polish, because the surface is so flat and clear that more light gets into the paint and reflects back. The effect is less dramatic on light colours, but still clearly there: the paint looks fresher, livelier and more even than before. On cars with black or dark paint especially, the finishing polish is the most visible step in the whole detail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the NP 03-06 right — pad, machine and technique for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe finishing polish assumes the prep is fully done: dirt, fallout and tar removed (decon step), the paint prepped with a correction polish, and the surface clean and dry. A finishing polish on an unprepped, heavily scratched surface can't clear the fine scratches completely — the step only pays off when the stages before it were done right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad choice: for machine work, finishing foam pads (soft, no cut of their own) carry the polish's fine abrasives evenly onto the surface without adding any cut. Hard foam pads or microfibre pads with their own cut aren't ideal for a pure finishing polish — the NP 03-06 is built for soft finishing pads. For hand work, use a soft, clean applicator — on small areas (headlights, small dent zones) the polish works well by hand too, but on large panels machine work is a must for an even result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTechnique: lay the polish down, spread it at the lowest speed, then run several overlapping passes across the panel at medium speed. The last pass goes at a slightly reduced speed and light pressure — this final pass levels the faint cross-marks the polishing leaves behind. Watch the dry-down: if the polish flashes off too fast (in the sun, on hot paint) it won't work properly — ideally polish in the garage or in the shade. After buffing off with microfibre, check for holograms straight away — any leftover buffer trails show up best under side-on artificial light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the NP 03-06 fits — when a finishing polish is the right step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe NP 03-06 is the final polishing step before any sealant or ceramic coating. You reach for it when there are still fine buffer trails or holograms left after the correction polish that need clearing before you seal. Typically the NP 03-06 is step 3 or 4 in a multi-stage polishing job: after the cutting polish (hard pad + cutting compound) and the correction polish (medium pad + medium polish) comes the finishing polish as the last abrasive step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn cars that don't need heavy correction (nearly new paint, or paint with very fine swirl marks only visible at an angle), the NP 03-06 can also run as the only polishing stage — a so-called \"one-step finish\". Here you pair a lightly cutting pad (combo pad) with the finishing polish to knock back light swirl marks and bring up maximum gloss in one go. That approach saves time, but it isn't enough for deeper scratches and heavier holograms — there a multi-stage process with a proper correction polish is unavoidable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn delicate cars with a thin clear coat (often older cars after several previous-owner polishes, or certain makes like Porsche and some BMW models) the finishing polish is especially valuable, because it gets by with minimal paint removal — the light cut clears only the buffer trails, without taking off more clear coat than needed. Paint-depth readings before the job help judge how many polishing passes still make sense without thinning the clear coat too far.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eNP 03-06 vs. PerfectFinish — which finishing polish for which job?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range has two finishing polishes for different demands. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\"\u003c\/a\u003e sits as the more aggressive finishing polish with a slightly higher cut — it's built especially for use after P2000 sandpaper (hence the \"up to P2000\" tag) and suits situations where a bit more cut is needed after sanding to clear the sanding marks completely. The NP 03-06, by contrast, is the finer finishing polish for the last step after the polishing correction stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn practice: if you're polishing after wet sanding (e.g. after removing a deep dent or a respray), you pick the PerfectFinish as the first polishing step and optionally the NP 03-06 as the final hologram removal. If you've worked a normal detail without sanding using a correction polish, you only need the NP 03-06 for the finish step. For detailers who want both scenarios covered day-to-day, having both polishes on hand makes sense — the PerfectFinish for sanding-heavy work, the NP 03-06 for pure high-gloss finish steps after polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn pad compatibility and machine suitability the two finishing polishes are similar — the call comes down mainly to the cut you want and the prep stage before it. For maximum flexibility in a pro setup we recommend keeping both polishes available, since the exact state of a car often only becomes clear on the lift and under correction lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06 — bottle sizes and value\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in three sizes: 250 ml for beginners and occasional use, 1 litre for regular detailers and pro detailing businesses, and 5 litres for high-throughput operations or for training sessions. The price per millilitre drops noticeably with the bigger bottle — for businesses polishing several cars a week, the 1-litre or 5-litre size is the most economical choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePer application on an average car (saloon or compact) you'll use about 15–30 ml of polish, depending on the number of passes and the pad size. The 1-litre bottle covers around 30–60 full car polishes that way — excellent value for regular use. The 250-ml bottle suits beginners who want to get to know the polish first, or special jobs on small areas (bonnet, roof, single panels after a spot repair).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a complete finish workflow we recommend: NP 03-06 (high-gloss finishing polish) → \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e (degrease\/panel wipe) → \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a ceramic coating. This three-step finishing workflow makes sure the paint glosses to the max after the detail, is fully degreased and stays protected long-term under a quality sealant — the standard for professional detailing results.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53506699362639,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53506660401487,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000","price":38.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53506660499791,"sku":"D1-SNX-2085000","price":95.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699395407,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506699428175,"sku":"D1-SNX-2081410_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506660434255,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_2","price":76.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506660467023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2083000_3","price":115.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish.png?v=1730477476"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur","title":"PROFILINE PerfectFinish \"4\/6\" Finish Polish (up to P2000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove sanding marks after P2000 and bring up a deep gloss — SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish do? The \"4\/6\" finish polish pulls out sanding marks up to P2000 grit with no residue, levels the paint after wet-sanding and brings up a mirror-deep gloss — the go-to first polishing step after wet or dry sanding on paint correction and spot repairs.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn pro paint sanding and when you're chasing out deep paint damage, the jump from sandpaper to polish is the step that makes or breaks the job: wet-sanding with P1500 or P2000 takes off orange peel, deep scratches or paint runs, but it leaves the typical sanding haze (the \"holy spirit\" pattern) that has to come out completely before you seal. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro finish polish built for exactly this hand-off: cutty enough to clear P2000 sanding marks completely, fine enough to lay down a glass-clear, hologram-free gloss while it does.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt specifically for use after wet-sanding up to P2000.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cut of the PerfectFinish is dialled to the \"4\/6\" range on the SONAX scale — meaning: strong enough to level the micro-grooves left by P1500–P2000 paper, without throwing down fresh deep holograms that would force another finish step. In a lot of cases the PerfectFinish is the only polishing step you need after wet-sanding to get the surface seal-ready.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMade for machine polishing with rotary and dual-action machines.\u003c\/strong\u003e The PerfectFinish formula is tuned for the machine: even viscosity so it spreads nicely on the pad, enough working time at moderate temperatures, and a flash-off phase that makes the result easy to read. It works with rotary machines (more cut, for heavier sanding marks) as well as dual-action machines (less heat build-up, for that final finishing pass).\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLeaves clearcoat that's seal-ready straight away.\u003c\/strong\u003e Once you've buffed off the PerfectFinish the surface is free of sanding marks, holograms and polishing-oil residue — the clearcoat sits in a state that's ready for a sealant or ceramic coating right after a panel-wipe step. That straight-to-seal readiness is what separates a good finish polish from a mediocre one that leaves fine residue behind after the buff.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The PerfectFinish gives its best with a medium-hard combo pad on the rotary or a lightly abrasive foam pad on the dual-action — depends how heavy the sanding marks are. After sanding, rinse the panel with clean water and let it dry fully before you lay the polish down. Spread it at low speed first, then run several overlapping passes at medium speed. Drop the speed for the last pass to get an even, hologram-free result. After buffing, degrease with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to pull every bit of polishing oil before you seal. On very deep sanding marks (P1000 or coarser) we'd run an intermediate step with a medium-cut correction stage first, then bring in the PerfectFinish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe PerfectFinish abrasive tech — what \"up to P2000\" means in paint sanding\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"up to P2000\" label in the description of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is an important spec: it tells you up to which sandpaper grit the polish can clear the resulting sanding marks completely. P2000 paper has a very fine grit (2000 works out to a mean particle size of about 10 microns) and leaves correspondingly fine sanding marks. P1500 leaves slightly deeper grooves (mean particle size about 13 microns), P1000 deeper still (about 18 microns).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEach of these grits leaves sanding marks with a typical depth and width — and the polish has to be able to level those grooves through its abrasive particles. The PerfectFinish carries abrasives whose size and hardness are dialled so they level P2000 grooves effectively. For deeper grooves (P1000 and coarser) the PerfectFinish would need several passes or simply isn't enough — here you're better off with a cuttier correction stage that brings the grooves down to P2000 level first, then the PerfectFinish. This step principle holds for every polishing and sanding process: each stage works the grooves of the one before it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"4\/6\" rating on the SONAX scale puts the PerfectFinish as a medium-fine finish polish: cuttier than a pure high-gloss finish polish, but finer than typical correction-stage polishes. That spot makes the PerfectFinish unusually versatile: it works both as the only polishing step after fine wet-sanding and as the second-to-last step before a further high-gloss finish polish such as the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e. Which way is better depends on the result you want, the state of the car and the time you've got.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe physics behind the jump from sanding to polishing is blending: every sanding or polishing stage lays down a new, finer pattern of grooves that overlays the pattern of the stage before. When the new pattern is finer than light's refractive-index threshold, the surface reads as optically smooth. The PerfectFinish reworks the P2000 grooves with abrasives so fine that the surface micro-structures left after polishing sit below what the human eye can pick up — so the surface comes off looking glossy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing PerfectFinish right — pad choice and technique for the best result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the finish polish starts with the right pad, and that's what decides the result. For use after wet-sanding (P1500–P2000) reach for combo pads with a touch of their own cut, which back up the PerfectFinish's correction power and let you clear sanding marks in a few passes. For use as a second finish step after a correction stage, softer finish pads are the call — they level the light polishing marks left behind. Pad hardness drives the effective cut directly: a hard pad with a medium-cut polish like the PerfectFinish can land roughly the same overall as a soft pad with a more aggressive polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMachine choice: the rotary gives you more cut on sanding marks than the dual-action and is the faster option on heavy P1500 marks. The dual-action keeps heat down and is the better call on delicate paint or as a finishing step to minimise holograms. A lot of pros run the PerfectFinish as a combo: first rounds on the rotary at medium speed to clear the sanding marks, last pass on the dual-action at low speed for that hologram-free deep gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChecking the result: read your polishing work under correction light (an LED panel light or daylight at a low angle). Leftover sanding marks show up under this light as parallel line patterns, holograms as random swirl patterns. If P2000 marks are still showing after several passes with the PerfectFinish, you've either got too little pad pressure, too low a speed or the wrong pad — a common slip-up is switching to too soft a pad too early, one that doesn't level the marks enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the PerfectFinish earns its keep — paint correction, spot repair and respray\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e is hard to do without across several pro jobs. Paint residue and runs after a respray: fresh paint sometimes throws runs, sags and orange-peel that you take off mechanically by sanding and polishing. Wet-sanding with P2000 levels the surface, and the PerfectFinish brings the gloss to its finished level — a standard workflow in body and paint shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDeep single scratches and stone-chip follow-up: after a spot repair (sanding out and partial respray) you have to buff the repaired patch and bring it up to the gloss level of the surrounding panel. The PerfectFinish is the right tool for that transition zone: it clears the spot-repair sanding marks and lays down a gloss that blends seamlessly into the surrounding paint. On small repair patches you can also work the PerfectFinish by hand with an applicator when the repair spot is too small for the machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGeneral paint correction on badly knocked-about cars: on cars with deep swirl marks, heavy holograms or mechanical damage you need a multi-stage process — a coarse correction stage for the main work, then the PerfectFinish for the hand-off to deep gloss. In this context the PerfectFinish replaces the separate sanding-and-finish combo once the previous stage has already brought things to P1500–P2000 level. For this broad use the 5-litre size is especially handy for shops with high polishing volume.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePerfectFinish vs. NP 03-06 — which finish polish for which job\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common question when buying a finish polish from the SONAX PROFILINE range: when PerfectFinish, when \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e? The answer is in the prep before it: the PerfectFinish \"4\/6\" is built for situations where the surface was sanded before polishing (P1500–P2000 wet-sanding) and heavier sanding marks are sitting there. The NP 03-06, on the other hand, is the finer finish polish for the last step after a correction polish — when there are no sanding marks, just light polishing marks and holograms from the previous polishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePut plainly: if a car comes in for polishing after a respray or after wet-sanding, the PerfectFinish is the first polishing step. If a car comes in for finishing after a normal cutty correction stage (polishing with no prior sanding), the NP 03-06 is the right step. For detailers who want to cover both scenarios we'd say keep both polishes on hand — the car and its prep decide which one comes out. In a two-stage combo (PerfectFinish after sanding, then NP 03-06 as the last finish) you can pull a standout result on paint that needs maximum gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners who only want to buy one finish polish: the NP 03-06 is the safer all-rounder for cars with no prior sanding. The PerfectFinish is a must on cars with prior wet-sanding — on cars with no sanding marks you can run it too, but it takes more passes than the NP 03-06 to land a hologram-free result. So the PerfectFinish earns its place on sanding-mark know-how, not on pure gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish — sizes and getting your money's worth\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1 litre and 5 litre, plus 2-pack and 3-pack sets. The 250 ml size suits beginners and occasional users, and works for sizing up the polish before a bigger order. The 1 litre is the most economical standard size for regular detailers and smaller prep shops — a litre runs to about 30–50 full car polishes. The 5 litre is aimed at body shops, paint shops and detailing shops with high polishing volume that use the polish daily and need the lowest price per litre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that run wet-sanding as a regular part of the service (paint correction, respray buffing, spot repair), the PerfectFinish is a must-have part of the polishing kit. Paired with the NP 03-06 for the final high-gloss finish, the Prepare for the panel-wipe step and a sealant, the PerfectFinish covers the full post-sanding workflow. That workflow is a pro standard in body shops and high-end detailing shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line, the SONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish is the product for every situation where you need to clear sanding marks up to P2000 and bring up a deep gloss. If you regularly run wet-sand prep jobs, buff out spot repairs or bring resprays up to gloss, you need the PerfectFinish as a fixed part of your kit — it closes the gap between sandpaper and high-gloss finish polish precisely and reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53506852782415,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410","price":20.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53506852815183,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000","price":57.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53506852847951,"sku":"D1-SNX-2245000","price":177.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506852880719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410_2","price":40.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506852913487,"sku":"D1-SNX-2241410_3","price":61.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506852946255,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000_2","price":114.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53506852979023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2243000_3","price":172.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur.png?v=1730639593"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur","title":"PROFILINE Cut+Finish \"5\/5\" One-Step Polish (up to P1500)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove sanding marks and get high gloss in one step with SONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can SONAX Cut+Finish do? A one-step polish with maximum cut (5\/5) and maximum gloss (5\/5) — it pulls out sanding marks up to P1500 and lays down a high-gloss finish in a single pass, silicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional paint correction there's one situation that keeps coming back: the paint has been wet-sanded — whether to fix a defect, after a spot-repair respray, or to knock down orange peel — and now the sanding marks have to go. Normally that means two steps: a cutting compound to take down the marks, then a finishing polish for the gloss. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e rolls both steps into one product. With a cut rating of 5\/5 and a gloss rating of 5\/5, it removes sanding marks from paper up to P1500 grit and leaves a high-gloss, hologram-free surface in a single pass. For workshops and detailers who need to get from sanding to a sale-ready result fast, that's a serious time-saver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut at maximum gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e A 5\/5 for cut and a 5\/5 for finish is unique in the SONAX PROFILINE range — no other product in the line hits the top mark in both categories. The special abrasive blend breaks down progressively as you polish: it starts aggressive to take down the sanding marks, then ends with a fine break-down that builds the gloss. That behaviour is exactly why a single pass does the job where other products need two separate steps.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and workshop-ready.\u003c\/strong\u003e In a bodyshop, being silicone-free isn't optional, it's mandatory. Silicone-bearing polishes can cause craters and fish-eyes on a respray — a problem that only shows up after the paint goes on and then writes off the whole job. So Cut+Finish is deliberately formulated silicone-free and can be used right next to the spray booth with no contamination risk.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow-dust working with a long open time.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polish stays wet and workable through the whole pass without dusting or drying out. That long open time gives you the freedom to extend the pass when the paint calls for it — with no worry about polish dust settling into shut-lines and trim gaps. The wipe-off afterwards comes away in one go, no re-cleaning needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run Cut+Finish on a rotary with a medium-hard to hard foam pad (orange or white in the SONAX colour system). Start at 1200 to 1500 rpm and step up gradually to a maximum of 1800 rpm if you need it. Drop three or four pea-sized dots onto the pad, spread the polish at low speed and work in rows with about 50 percent overlap. Polish each section until the polish goes clear — that's the moment the abrasives have fully broken down and the gloss comes up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut 5\/5 and gloss 5\/5 — how Cut+Finish pulls off both in one step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe secret of \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is in the abrasive technology: the abrasive particles in the formula are built to break down progressively under pressure and heat. At the start of the pass the particles are big enough to take down the coarse sanding marks from P1500 paper — a job normally reserved for a dedicated cutting compound. As the pass goes on, the particles break into finer and finer fragments, until they're small enough to polish the surface to a high gloss without leaving fresh micro-scratches behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThat progressive break-down is the reason the polish needs a full pass to show what it can do. Stop too early — say after thirty seconds instead of two minutes per section — and you stay stuck in the cutting stage: you get the coarse marks out, but no gloss. The pass is only done once the polish goes clear on the paint and the typical shine shows up. Reading that point takes a little experience, but after the first two or three panels you'll have the feel for it down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne common misconception: some users think a 5\/5 polish is more aggressive than a pure cutting compound like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX CutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/a\u003e. It's the other way around — CutMax has more cut at 6\/4 and can take down coarser defects, such as sanding marks from P1000 paper. Cut+Finish starts at P1500 and reaches the same gloss result you'd otherwise only get with an extra finishing step. If you need to sand coarser, you need CutMax as the first step — Cut+Finish is then the fast one-step solution for lighter to medium sanding work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a one-step polish properly — machine type, pad choice and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is built primarily for rotary polishers. Here's why: a rotary, with its pure rotating action, builds more heat and friction than a dual-action machine — exactly the energy the progressive abrasive break-down needs to run the full spectrum from cut to high gloss. It works on a dual-action machine too, just with reduced cut: the eccentric action builds less heat, so the particles break down slower and the pass takes longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epad choice\u003c\/strong\u003e drives the result more than anything. On a hard pad (white or orange) Cut+Finish gives you its full cut — ideal for working a panel after wet-sanding. On a medium-hard pad the cut is more moderate, enough for refreshing weathered paint without sanding first. On a soft finishing pad the polish loses too much cut and no longer reaches the performance it was built for — for pure finish polishing there are better-suited products like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish (4\/6)\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the application: drop three or four pea-sized dots of polish onto the pad, spread them at low speed over the panel and then bring it up to working speed. Work in rows with about fifty percent overlap across the whole section until the polish goes clear. A typical section — say half a bonnet — takes two to three minutes on a rotary. Wipe the polish residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED lamp: if there are still sanding marks visible, repeat the pass with a bit more pressure or a higher speed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you polish large areas — bonnet, roof, side panels — getting the pressure right is the key. Hold the machine so the pad sits evenly on the surface and let the weight of the machine do the work. Extra pressure from above does raise the cut, but it also builds more heat and can cause holograms on sensitive paint — exactly what Cut+Finish is meant to avoid. If you still see defects after one pass, a second pass at the same pressure beats a single pass with too much pressure.\n\nAfter polishing, it's worth degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to strip the last of the polish residue. Under the Prepare control spray the real result shows up — without polishing oils and fillers that can visually mask defects. That step matters especially if a ceramic coating or paint protection film is going on afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRemoving sanding marks after wet-sanding — the ideal jobs for Cut+Finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the follow-up after wet-sanding with P1200 to P1500 paper. Day-to-day you'll run into that in a few scenarios:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003espot-repair follow-up\u003c\/strong\u003e in the bodyshop, blend-ins and touch-up areas get wet-sanded first to level the paint and knock down orange peel. Cut+Finish takes the sanding marks out in one pass and brings the repaired area up to the gloss level of the surrounding original paint — without a second polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003enew-car prep\u003c\/strong\u003e, plenty of vehicles come from the factory with light orange peel and transport scratches. A careful wet-sand with P1500 levels the surface, and Cut+Finish brings the gloss back. Here the silicone-free formula plays an important role: should the new car need a respray inside the warranty period, the silicone-free polish causes no problems with the repaint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn a \u003cstrong\u003eclassic-car restoration\u003c\/strong\u003e or the recovery of badly weathered paint, Cut+Finish is enough on its own in many cases, as long as the weathering doesn't run too deep. On original stove-baked paint, which is often softer than modern water-based finishes, Cut+Finish offers enough cut to take down the oxidised layer and enough finish to bring the gloss underneath back out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother scenario that comes up a lot day-to-day: \u003cstrong\u003escratch removal without sanding first.\u003c\/strong\u003e Not every scratch needs the sandpaper. Surface scratches that sit only in the clearcoat and disappear when the surface is wet can be polished out directly with Cut+Finish. The 5\/5 cut is enough to take down the damaged clearcoat layer far enough for the scratch to disappear — and the 5\/5 gloss makes sure the spot doesn't end up looking duller than the surrounding paint afterwards. For this job a medium-hard pad beats the hard pad, so you keep the cut more controlled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere Cut+Finish hits its limits: on sanding marks from P1000 and coarser it doesn't have the cut to take them out fully in one pass. Here CutMax (6\/4) is the better choice as a first step, followed by a finish with PerfectFinish or the NP 03-06. Cut+Finish is no replacement for a dedicated cutting compound on heavy defect removal — it's the one-step solution for the P1200 to P1500 range, where it plays its strength in full. On extremely hard ceramic clearcoats too, like the ones some German premium makers use, Cut+Finish can need more passes than on softer Japanese or Korean paint systems — the abrasives break down slower on the hard substrate, and the polishing process takes correspondingly longer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne-step polish comparison — Cut+Finish vs. CutMax vs. PerfectFinish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range, Cut+Finish, CutMax and PerfectFinish form a logical gradient that covers different needs:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pure cutting compound — maximum cut (6\/5), moderate gloss (4\/5). It comes out when coarse defects like P1000 sanding marks, deep scratches or heavy weathering have to be taken down. After CutMax a finishing step is nearly always needed, because the gloss result alone isn't enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePerfectFinish (4\/6)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the counterpart: moderate cut (4\/5), maximum gloss (6\/5). It's built for the finishing step after a cutting compound and creates the last bit of high gloss needed for concours results and showroom quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits right in the middle and is the all-rounder: it manages the cut of a medium cutting compound and the gloss of a good finishing polish in a single pass. The upside is obvious — time saved, fewer pad changes, less polish residue. The downside: if you have to push to the extremes — heaviest defect removal or that absolute last bit of high gloss — you're better served by the two-step approach of CutMax and PerfectFinish. For an estimated seventy percent of the day-to-day polishing work in workshop and detailing, Cut+Finish is plenty as the only polish you need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst polishes from other makers, Cut+Finish positions itself as the workshop-focused solution: the silicone-free formula, the low-dust working and the long open time are properties that make the difference in daily workshop use. Hobby detailers who polish once a year notice these upsides less — for them what counts above all is the end result. In a workshop polishing ten to fifteen vehicles a week, though, these upsides add up to a tangible efficiency gain: less cleanup thanks to no dust, no contamination risk thanks to being silicone-free, less wasted product thanks to the controlled consistency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying a one-step polish — bottle sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCut+Finish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. For getting started or the occasional job on your own car, the 250 ml bottle is enough — that polishes a whole vehicle and leaves you a reserve for touch-ups. For workshops and professional detailers polishing every day, the 1000 ml bottle is the more economical pick: the price per litre drops noticeably and you reorder less often.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the optimal workflow we recommend the combination: Cut+Finish as the main polish, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for result checking and degreasing, and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e as the final sealant. This trio covers the whole process from defect correction to long-term protection — in three steps instead of the five or six a multi-stage process with separate cutting and finishing polishes would need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith several vehicles a day a further upside of Cut+Finish shows up: you only need one product and one set of pads, instead of switching between cutting and finishing polish. That cuts not just the setup time but also the risk of mix-ups — in a workshop where several people polish, a simple one-product system is less error-prone than a three-stage process with different polishes and pad combinations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical note on storage: Cut+Finish can separate slightly when it stands for a while — the abrasives settle at the bottom. Shake the bottle well before every use until the consistency is evenly creamy. Store the product frost-free and sealed, and it keeps its full performance over the whole shelf life. Frozen polish loses its homogeneous consistency and won't work evenly anymore even after it thaws.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53519485403471,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410","price":21.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53519485436239,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000","price":63.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53519485501775,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410_2","price":42.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53519485534543,"sku":"D1-SNX-2251410_3","price":64.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519485567311,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000_2","price":126.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519485600079,"sku":"D1-SNX-2253000_3","price":190.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur.png?v=1730642087"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-red-max-felgenreiniger","title":"PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max wheel cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePull off brake dust and mineral build-up the pro way — SONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max do? This strong acidic pro wheel cleaner dissolves brake dust, limescale and baked-on mineral build-up from alloy and steel wheels — even on stubborn, long-term grime and without heavy scrubbing.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional detailing shops and reconditioning outfits that clean heavily soiled wheels day in, day out, standard wheel cleaners hit their limit fast: baked-on brake dust made of iron particles, mineral limescale from hard water and polymerised road grime sit deep in the pores of the aluminium surface and won't come off fully with neutral or mild alkaline cleaners. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/strong\u003e is the acidic maximum-strength formula for exactly this job: a powerful, acidic-pH blend built specifically for heavy daily pro use in large containers (5 litre, 25 litre, 200 litre) that reliably cuts through stubborn wheel contamination.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum acidic cleaning power for heavy-duty grime.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Red Max is the strongest option in the PROFILINE wheel cleaner range: with an acidic pH it dissolves mineral deposits (limescale, oxides) chemically through an acid-base reaction, while the powerful surfactant blend loosens brake dust and oil-grime mixtures and lifts them off the wheel surface. The result is a deep cleaning action that keeps mechanical scrubbing to a minimum and noticeably shortens the working time per vehicle.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for heavy daily pro use in bulk containers.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Red Max comes in pro containers only — 5 litre, 25 litre and 200 litre — and is aimed at detailing shops, wash bays and fleet care outfits that clean lots of vehicles a day and need an economical, concentrated cleaner. Buying it in bulk means consistent product quality at a low price per litre and fewer stock top-ups.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEffective against brake dust, limescale and road grime on aluminium and steel.\u003c\/strong\u003e Through braking, alloy wheels pick up iron particles from brake discs and pads that bake on and can't be removed without acidic chemistry. Limescale from hard water builds up especially on vehicles that get washed regularly but never fully dried. The Red Max targets both types of contamination and leaves a clean, even wheel surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always lay the Red Max down on cool wheels out of direct sun — on hot metal the dwell time drops sharply and the product can dry out before it works. Pre-rinse the wheel, spray or wipe the cleaner on, let it dwell for 2–5 minutes — don't let it dry — then rinse thoroughly. For heavily baked-on residue, back the dwell step up with a soft wheel brush to mechanically free the loosened residue from recesses and hubs. On unanodised aluminium surfaces, keep an eye on the dwell time — too long a contact can dull the aluminium. After the acidic clean we recommend a rinse step with clean water and, if needed, a finishing treatment with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e as a maintenance product for regular use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAcid chemistry in a wheel cleaner — how the Red Max dissolves mineral build-up and brake dust\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe working principle of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/strong\u003e is based on a combined acidic and surfactant-active formula: the acidic component attacks mineral compounds by breaking down the crystalline structure of limescale and oxide deposits — calcium and magnesium carbonate (limescale) react with the acid and turn into water-soluble salts that rinse off easily. Aluminium oxide deposits (corrosion products on alloy wheels) are likewise loosened by the acid reaction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIron particles from brake dust are, chemically speaking, iron oxide (rust) or metallic iron that has baked into the surface structure of the wheel. Acids dissolve iron compounds through a different reaction: metallic iron and iron oxides react with strong acids, releasing iron salts that are water-soluble and get carried off during rinsing. The combined action of acid and surfactants makes sure the greasy phase of the brake dust residue (brake caliper oil, road grime) is loosened and lifted off the surface at the same time — a purely acidic formula without surfactants would only dissolve the mineral component and leave the organic dirt behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \"Red Max\" name points to the maximum concentration within the PROFILINE wheel cleaner line: compared to the regular \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e (positioned as a milder maintenance solution), the Red Max is built for situations where normal cleaners are out of their depth — heavily soiled wheels after long cleaning intervals, vehicles with mineral-rich water residue, or commercial tyre service outfits cleaning lots of wheels a day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe formulation is dialled in for use on aluminium and steel wheels. Aluminium handles acids well in a controlled concentration and with limited dwell time — too long a dwell can strip the natural oxide protection layer of the aluminium too far, leading to dulling or an uneven surface. This effect is stronger on smooth, unpainted wheels than on powder-coated or painted wheels, which are protected by the coating. For pro use that means: keep an eye on the dwell time, don't let it dry, rinse off fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the FelgenReiniger Red Max properly — dosing, dwell time and safety\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the acidic pro wheel cleaner takes a bit of prep and care to get the best results and avoid material damage. Step 1 — prep: move the vehicle to an area where the wheels aren't in direct sunlight. Pre-rinse the wheels with clean water to get rid of loose dirt and loose particles that would otherwise act like scratching abrasives during the cleaning process. Check the wheel temperature: the wheels have to be cool (under 40 °C), which is a regular problem on freshly driven vehicles — hot wheels let the cleaner dry out too fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep 2 — application: spray the Red Max evenly onto all wheel surfaces with a spray bottle — face, spokes, hub centre and barrel. With 5-litre containers a separate spray bottle filled from the container is the way to go, to keep dosing controlled. The dwell time is typically 2–5 minutes, depending on how dirty the wheel is. During the dwell the cleaner should stay visibly wet — if it dries, re-wet it right away, since dried-on acidic cleaner is harder to rinse and can attack the wheel surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep 3 — mechanical help and rinsing: for heavily baked-on brake dust or hardened limescale, use a soft wheel brush to mechanically free the loosened residue in recesses, around bolt holes and between spokes. Then rinse thoroughly with clean water — fully removing all acid residue matters, since even small amounts of acid left dwelling on aluminium can trigger corrosion or dulling. With strongly acidic waste water, follow the local waste water regulations — professional wash bays have neutralisation systems for acidic effluent.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePersonal protective equipment: when working with concentrated acidic wheel cleaner, protective gloves and, for intensive use, safety goggles are a good idea. That goes especially for the 25-litre and 200-litre containers, where you're handling larger quantities. For automatic cleaning machines and water systems, check compatibility with the material of the system before use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the Red Max is used — wheel types and levels of grime\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/strong\u003e suits a broad range of wheel types and grime scenarios. Alloy wheels (cast and forged), whether painted, polished or powder-coated, respond well to the acidic clean — but on polished or untreated aluminium wheels (bare aluminium) the dwell time should be capped at 3 minutes max, so you don't risk dulling the polished surfaces. Powder-coated and painted wheels handle the acidic formula well, since the protective layer isolates the aluminium from direct acid contact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSteel wheels (winter wheels, commercial vehicle wheels) can be cleaned with the Red Max too — here the acidic formula is less critical, since steel is less reactive to acids than aluminium. On steel wheels with rust on the inner face, the Red Max loosens the surface rust, which becomes visible (orange residue when rinsing). For the outer face of chrome wheels we recommend keeping the dwell time to 1–2 minutes and rinsing especially thoroughly, since chrome can go dull under long acid contact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn commercial use the Red Max is especially efficient for wash bays, tyre service outfits and fleet care businesses that clean lots of vehicles a day. The bulk availability (25 litre and 200 litre) lets it slot fully into existing cleaning workflows. A common case is cleaning van fleets and truck wheels, which get especially heavily contaminated with brake dust from their heavy brake systems and have long cleaning intervals. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast\u003c\/a\u003e offers a colour-indicating formula as a complementary option, changing colour when iron particles react — for outfits that value a visual readout of the cleaning action.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRed Max in the product comparison — acidic cleaning vs. universal wheel cleaners\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX wheel cleaner range has different products for different requirement profiles. The regular \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e is designed as a milder, broadly usable maintenance solution for regular use on normal wheel grime — lower pH, gentler on sensitive wheel surfaces, suitable as a weekly cleaner. The Red Max, on the other hand, is positioned for intensive use on heavy grime or after long cleaning intervals: more cleaning power, shorter working time on heavy brake dust.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to non-acidic, purely alkaline wheel cleaners, the Red Max shows superior performance on mineral deposits (limescale, oxides) — alkaline cleaners are good for organic grime (oils, greases, silicones) but regularly fail on limescale and baked-on iron-oxide brake dust. Conversely, acidic cleaners are less effective against oil and grease grime, which a surfactant-based alkaline formula handles more efficiently. The Red Max combines acid and surfactant technology to tackle both types of grime at once — that makes it an all-rounder for heavily soiled wheels carrying both mineral and organic residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst DIY solutions (diluted citric acid, household sanitary cleaners), the Red Max as a professional product has a clear edge: the formulation is optimised for vehicle wheels, contains the right surfactants for brake-dust removal, and the concentration is set so it works effectively without damaging wheel material at a short dwell time. Household sanitary cleaners often contain acids that are too aggressive or the wrong surfactants for wheel use and can do permanent damage to wheel coatings or aluminium material when used wrong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max — containers and usage recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/strong\u003e comes only in professional bulk containers: 5 litre for smaller outfits and frequent single users, 25 litre for mid-size detailing shops and wash bays, plus 200 litre for industrial customers and large fleet care operations. The price scaling by container size is significant — the 200-litre container offers a much lower price per litre than the 5-litre one and makes the Red Max especially economical for high-volume outfits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor small to mid-size detailing shops doing 5–20 vehicles a day, the 5-litre container is the ideal entry point: you can use it straight as a working volume and the demand is easy to gauge before deciding on the 25-litre container. Per set of wheels you typically need 20–50 ml depending on the level of grime and the wheel size — so the 5-litre container is good for 100–250 vehicle jobs, which keeps stock manageable even for smaller outfits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo sum up, the Red Max is the right product for any wheel cleaning job where mild wheel cleaners fall short: heavily baked-on brake dust after long cleaning intervals, hard-limescale mineral build-up, and commercial cleaning demands with high throughput. For outfits looking for a full wheel care concept, we recommend pairing the Red Max for the intensive deep clean with the regular PROFILINE FelgenReiniger or the SONAX FelgenBeast for ongoing maintenance — a two-step split that optimises both cleaning quality and economics.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53519620669775,"sku":"D1-SNX-2315050","price":62.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":53519620735311,"sku":"D1-SNX-2317050","price":314.16,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":53519620800847,"sku":"D1-SNX-2319050","price":1951.6,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-red-max-felgenreiniger_5-liter.png?v=1730643342"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-coatingapplicator-applikationspads","title":"PROFILINE CoatingApplicator Applicator Pads (Evolon®)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eLay ceramic coatings down evenly and scratch-free with the SONAX CoatingApplicator\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX CoatingApplicator special? An applicator pad with an Evolon® fabric face and a foam core inside — it lays ceramic coatings down evenly, scratch-free and sparingly, with no streaks and no wasted product.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you apply a ceramic coating, you're not just paying for the coating itself — you're paying for all the prep: the polish, the degrease, the controlled conditions. So it stings when the result gets ruined by a cheap applicator pad: uneven film thickness, micro-scratches in the freshly polished paint, product wasted through uncontrolled release. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CoatingApplicator\u003c\/strong\u003e fixes exactly that. Its Evolon® fabric face, made from extremely fine polyamide and polyester fibres, lays every SONAX CeramicCoating down evenly and scratch-free — from paint coating through film coating to plastic coating. The foam core inside holds the coating and releases it in a controlled way, so a few drops are enough to coat a whole body panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eScratch-free Evolon® face.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Evolon® fabric is built from fibres finer than a human hair — about ten times finer than ordinary microfibre. That ultra-smooth surface keeps micro-scratches off even delicate clear coats and freshly polished panels. When you're applying a coating, that's the whole game: any scratch made during application gets locked in under the ceramic layer, and after that there's no fixing it.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eControlled product release through the foam core.\u003c\/strong\u003e The foam core inside works as a reservoir — it takes up the liquid coating and releases it evenly across the whole working face. No drips, no flooding, no dry spots at the edge of the pad. That even release is the reason pro detailers don't reach for just any foam pad but for dedicated coating applicators: the film thickness of the coating is what mainly drives durability and looks.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCompact format for precise work.\u003c\/strong\u003e At 85 × 60 mm the CoatingApplicator sits securely in your hand and reaches tight spots too — swage lines, seams, the transitions between body panels. When you're coating plastic trim, headlights or window frames, a compact pad works better than large applicators that sit unevenly on edges and corners.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always put the coating on the light Evolon® side of the pad — not on the dark foam side. Drop two or three drops onto the pad, spread them with a light wipe over a clean area, then work in a cross pattern: horizontal first, then vertical. That gets you an even film thickness with no directional streaks. Swap the pad every two or three parts at the latest — a saturated pad gives off too much product and leaves streaks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eEvolon® fabric — why the material makes the difference in coating application\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEvolon® is a brand name from the Freudenberg group for a special spunbond fabric made from continuous fibres. Unlike ordinary microfibre, which is woven or knitted, Evolon® fibres are formed by splitting a bicomponent filament — the result is fibres under a micrometre in diameter, noticeably finer and more uniform than woven microfibre. For coating application that has two practical upshots. First, the pad glides over the surface almost friction-free and causes no micro-scratches, not even on soft Japanese clear coats or freshly polished panels. Second, the fabric draws the coating up by capillary action and releases it in a controlled way again — much like a quality brush picks up paint without dripping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eCoatingApplicator\u003c\/strong\u003e pairs that Evolon® fabric with a foam core inside that acts as an extra product reservoir. In practice that means: you put a few drops of coating on the pad, and the foam core spreads the product evenly across the whole contact face. Without that foam core the coating would stay concentrated at the spot where you dropped it and run out unevenly thin as you wipe — a classic problem with plain foam applicators that have no fabric face.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common misconception: some people think a soft microfibre cloth can do the same job as a dedicated coating applicator. That works for spray sealants, which get spread over a large area and wiped off. But with real ceramic coatings — SiO₂- or Si-carbon-based products that cross-link chemically on the surface — even film thickness is what makes or breaks the result. A microfibre cloth has an irregular surface with long fibre loops that soak the coating up unpredictably and lay it on too thick in places, too thin in others. The Evolon® pad, with its flat, even face, is the technically superior tool for this specific job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCoating application step by step — how to get the most out of the pad\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe prep starts not at the pad but at the surface: before you pick up the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CoatingApplicator\u003c\/strong\u003e, the paint or film has to be washed, polished if needed, and degreased with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e. Any film of grease, any polishing residue under the coating hurts adhesion and shortens durability. Prepare strips those residues away cleanly and doubles as a control spray — under the control spray the last defects show up, the ones you want to fix before you coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eTake a fresh pad out of the pack and hold it with the light Evolon® side up. Drop two or three drops of coating in the middle of the fabric face — for the SONAX CeramicCoatings that's enough for an area of about 40 × 40 centimetres. Spread the product first with light strokes over the surface to wet the pad evenly, then apply in a cross pattern: horizontal first, then vertical. That technique makes sure the coating goes on gap-free and at an even thickness.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWork in small sections — half a panel per pass is a good rule of thumb. After applying, you wipe excess coating off with a clean Coating Towel before it flashes off. On paint the wipe-off should happen within one to two minutes, on film faster. When you notice the pad releasing less evenly or the drag increasing as you wipe, swap the pad. A saturated or part-dried pad leaves streaks and spreads the product unevenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe ambient conditions matter a lot during application. Ideal is a temperature between 15 and 25 degrees Celsius at a relative humidity of 40 to 60 per cent. Too cold and the coating's cross-linking slows down; too warm and it dries out on the pad too fast — both hurt the result. Work in a closed garage or workshop where you can, not under direct sun. Draughts are a problem too: they speed up the flash-off and can carry dust particles onto the freshly coated surface, where they then get locked in under the ceramic layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA pro trick for especially even results: use an LED inspection lamp during application. Under the directed light, unevenly coated spots show up straight away — as matte patches on the otherwise evenly glossy layer. That lets you fix problem areas before the coating cures and the fix becomes impossible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant: the \u003cstrong\u003eCoatingApplicator pads\u003c\/strong\u003e are single-use. After use the coating cures inside the pad and the Evolon® fibres lose their even structure. Reusing a used pad would cause exactly the micro-scratches the pad prevents when fresh. The six pads in the set are enough for a full vehicle coating — on a partial job you'll have pads left over for the next time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhich coatings is the applicator suited to — scope and limits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CoatingApplicator\u003c\/strong\u003e is designed for every SONAX CeramicCoating and works across the whole range: \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-one-paint-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eCC One for paint\u003c\/a\u003e, CC Evo for the two-step coating, CC Pro for professional use, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-vinyl-ppf-folienversiegelung\"\u003eCC Vinyl+PPF for film\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-plastic-rubber-kunststoffversiegelung\"\u003eCC Plastic+Rubber for plastic\u003c\/a\u003e and CC HeadlightCoating for headlights. The Evolon® face is material-compatible with every substrate — clear coat, film, hard plastic, polycarbonate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the pad hits its limits: for spray sealants or wax products the CoatingApplicator isn't the right call. Spray sealants get applied over a large area and wiped off — a microfibre cloth is more efficient for that. Wax products have a much thicker consistency than ceramic coatings and would overload the foam core, so the controlled release stops working. The CoatingApplicator is a specialist: tuned for the thin, fast-curing ceramic coatings where precision and evenness come before everything.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou can apply glass coatings with the pad too, though for glass many detailers prefer an even more compact applicator or a folded suede cloth, to better control the higher pressure on the hard glass surface. On paint, film and plastic — the three main use cases — the CoatingApplicator is the first choice in the SONAX system though.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA special case is matte film and matte paint: here the Evolon® material really shows its strength. Matte surfaces are extremely sensitive to scratches and friction — any damage to the matte microstructure leaves an unwanted shiny patch that can't be polished out. The ultra-fine Evolon® fabric glides over matte surfaces without changing the structure, and the coating goes on thin enough to keep the matte character fully intact. If you want to coat a matte film or a matte paint, do not under any circumstances reach for an ordinary foam pad — the risk of visible application marks is too high.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCoating applicator comparison — Evolon® vs. suede vs. foam\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the market you'll find three main types of coating applicator: Evolon®-based pads, suede pads (faux suede) and plain foam applicators.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSuede pads\u003c\/strong\u003e are the classic choice for a lot of detailers and often come bundled with coatings from other makers. They have a velvety, smooth face that spreads coatings well. The downside: suede material soaks the coating up heavily and releases it less controllably — you need more product per area. With expensive coatings that extra use adds up noticeably. Suede pads can also leave fine streaks on soft paint under high pressure, the kind that only show up once the coating has cured.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlain foam applicators\u003c\/strong\u003e with no fabric face are the cheapest option. They work for spray sealants and thick waxes but aren't ideal for ceramic coatings: the open-pore foam structure releases the thin coating uncontrollably — sometimes too much, sometimes too little. The result is spots with double the film thickness next to spots that are barely coated. On matte film or sensitive surfaces the coarse foam structure can also leave visible patterns behind. That's why in professional detailing shops you almost never see plain foam applicators used for coating application — there they only come out for polishing work or laying on waxes, where the demands on evenness are far lower.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEvolon® pads\u003c\/strong\u003e bring the best of both worlds together: the ultra-fine fabric face glides streak-free like a good suede pad, while the foam core inside releases the coating in a controlled, sparing way. The lower product use offsets the higher price per pad — per coated vehicle you'll reckon on two to four pads fewer than with ordinary suede applicators, because you reload less product and swap less often. Over a year that means a measurable saving on coating use for a detailing shop coating three or four vehicles a week — and with a better end result on top. So the price per pad soon evens out once you look at the total cost of the coating job and not just the unit price of the applicator.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the CoatingApplicator — set contents and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CoatingApplicator\u003c\/strong\u003e set holds six applicator pads in the 85 × 60 mm size — enough for a full vehicle coating plus a reserve. For shops that coat daily, a stock of two or three sets makes sense, so you never have to reorder mid-job. The pads are individually wrapped in film and so stay clean and contamination-free until you use them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best result chain you pair the CoatingApplicator with the matching SONAX CeramicCoating of your choice and a SONAX Coating Towel for the wipe-off. The Coating Towels are built specifically for ceramic coating: extremely short-pile, so no fibres get locked into the coating, and soft enough not to damage the freshly applied layer as you wipe. This interplay of applicator, coating and wipe-off towel is the system SONAX intended for professional use — and the one that gets private detailers the best results in practice too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003eprofessional use\u003c\/strong\u003e it pays to always keep at least one set in reserve. In the workflow of a vehicle detail, nothing is more annoying than running out on the last pad and having to break off the coating. Pros often work with a rotation system too: while one pad is working a section, a fresh pad is ready to start the next section seamlessly. That keeps the workflow steady, and the open time of the coating — the window before it flashes off — gets used to the full.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne last word on storage: keep unused pads dry and dust-free in their original packaging. Contaminated pads — through dust, polishing residue or fingerprints on the fabric side, say — can cause micro-scratches and shouldn't be used for coating application any more. When in doubt, grab a fresh pad: on a ceramic coating meant to last twelve to eighteen months, the pad is the cheapest element in the whole workflow — and at the same time the element that decides the quality of the result. If you spend hours polishing and degreasing during prep, the last step is no place to skimp on the applicator.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"6 pieces \/ 85 x 60 mm","offer_id":53519908405583,"sku":"D1-SNX-2377410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-coatingapplicator-applikationspads_6-stueck.png?v=1730645209"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE UltimateCut \"6+\/3\" Cutting Compound (up to P1000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClearing deep scratches and P1000 sanding marks the professional way — SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut do? The strongest cutting compound in the PROFILINE polish range takes out deep scratches, heavy swirl marks and sanding marks down to P1000 grit — for serious paint correction before you finish-polish.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDeep isolated scratches, swirl marks all over the panel after years of neglect, paint runs after a respray or sanding marks from P800–P1000 paper: these are too much for a normal correction polish. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e is the answer to those extremes: the strongest cutting polish in the PROFILINE range, rated „6+\/3\" — maximum abrasiveness for maximum correction, built for professional work on badly damaged paint where milder products give up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cutting power for the heaviest paint correction.\u003c\/strong\u003e Rated „6+\/3\", the UltimateCut is the most abrasive product in the SONAX PROFILINE polish line. The coarse abrasive particles can level P1000 sanding marks completely in a few machine passes — a job that milder polishes like the PerfectFinish or the OS polishes would need far more passes for, or fail at entirely. That cutting power brings your working time on badly damaged paint right down.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDesigned for rotary polishers and fast dual-action polishers.\u003c\/strong\u003e The UltimateCut is built for heavy-duty machine work — with rotary polishers (DA polisher) and fast dual-action polishers with a big throw. By hand it's barely effective at this cut level; you need the mechanical energy of the machine to fully activate the coarse abrasives and get an even correction. Heavy-duty work is what it's for.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSlots into the multi-stage PROFILINE polishing process.\u003c\/strong\u003e The UltimateCut is designed as step one in a multi-stage polishing process: after the UltimateCut step (maximum correction) you typically go to a medium correction stage (e.g. FS 05-04) and then a finishing stage (PerfectFinish or NP 03-06). That staged process makes sure any polishing marks left after the most aggressive step are fully removed by the following stages before you seal the surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Only reach for the UltimateCut where the damage really calls for it — too much cut on thin paint pulls off more material than you need and puts the clear coat at risk. Take paint thickness readings before you start, so you've got enough material for the full multi-stage job. Start with a hard, abrasive pad (wool pad or hard foam) on the rotary at medium speed (3–4). After the UltimateCut step, check the panel for leftover polishing marks and carry on with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e as the next stage. For the final high-gloss finish, follow up with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e. Swap the pad between stages — you don't want abrasives from different stages mixing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUltimateCut abrasive tech — what \"6+\/3\" and \"up to P1000\" mean in the polishing process\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe „6+\/3\" and „up to P1000\" labels in the spec sheet of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e tell you a lot about where it sits and what it's for. „6+\/3\" describes its abrasive position in the SONAX polish hierarchy: higher numbers mean more aggressive cut. With „6+\/3\" the UltimateCut sits at the top end of that scale — the first three digits describe the cutting power in use, and the format is a specific Sonax in-house classification method.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe „up to P1000\" figure is the spec that matters most day to day: it tells you the UltimateCut can fully level the sanding marks left by P1000 paper. P1000 is a medium-coarse grit (particle size about 18 microns) that's typically the first grit you reach for when wet-sanding out paint runs, orange peel after a respray or deep scratches. Marks that deep are too much for fine correction polishes (NP 03-06, PerfectFinish) — they need the cut of the UltimateCut to bring them down to a level the following stages can work with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasives in the UltimateCut have a controlled particle size that delivers the heavy correction without cutting uncontrolled deep scratches of its own. Modern compounds often use abrasives that break down into smaller particles as you work them — this „diminishing abrasive\" effect means the polish is very aggressive at the start (coarse particles) and gets milder towards the end of the pass (broken-down, smaller particles). That reduces the depth of the polishing marks left behind and makes the next stage easier. The UltimateCut formula uses that principle to leave a surface after the correction step that you can take on with a medium-cut polish or straight to the PerfectFinish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe lubrication of the UltimateCut formula plays a decisive supporting role: a cutting compound doesn't just have to be abrasive, it has to feed the pad enough lube so the machine's mechanical energy turns into abrasion under control instead of heat. Dry formulas cut well for a moment but overheat fast, and with too little lube they can leave dry-buff marks on the paint. The UltimateCut is balanced between cut and lubrication so it holds up over long passes at full tilt. On big vehicles (SUVs, vans, heavy saloons) that balance matters even more, because the whole job takes considerably longer than on a compact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing to watch with high-cut compounds like the UltimateCut is heat input: heavy cut under machine work builds serious heat where the pad meets the paint. Overheated paint can burn (orange-brown discolouration), soften, or crack from thermal stress. So: rotary at a moderate speed, enough product on the pad (lubrication keeps the heat down), and check the panel temperature regularly between passes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the UltimateCut properly — machine, pad and the multi-stage process\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorking with a cutting compound starts with the machine: for maximum cut on deep scratches and P1000 sanding marks the rotary polisher (single action, SA) is first choice — it gives you more torque and more material removal than a dual-action. If you only have a DA, go for a hard foam pad or a hybrid wool pad and several intensive passes — the result is fine, just slower than with the rotary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePad choice: the UltimateCut wants hard or medium-hard abrasive pads (wool pads, hybrid wool pads or hard foam). Soft finishing pads bring the abrasive performance right down and shouldn't be used with the UltimateCut. Clean the pad of old polish residue with a pad washer or a towel before you start — particles from a previous stage still sitting in the pad can put scratches in during the UltimateCut step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOrder of work: spread a small amount of UltimateCut over the pad, spread it at low speed, then run intensive overlapping passes across the panel at medium to high speed. The polish dries fairly quickly — at room temperature and normal humidity you work section by section. After the UltimateCut step: wipe the residue off completely with a microfibre towel and check the surface under correction light for leftover sanding marks. If P1000 traces are still showing, repeat the UltimateCut step. If not, move on to the next polishing stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the UltimateCut earns its keep — when you need maximum correction\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e comes out when milder polishes are out of their depth. Wet-sanding after a respray: after paint work in a workshop or body shop, fresh paint often shows orange peel, runs or inclusions. Those get levelled mechanically by wet-sanding with P800–P1000. The deep sanding marks that leaves are the classic job for the UltimateCut as the first polishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBadly damaged older paint: cars that haven't been polished in years, showing heavy swirl marks across the panels, deep individual scratches from the wash bay or oxidation, need maximum correction to get back to a presentable level of gloss. The UltimateCut is the powerful first step there, bringing the damage down to a level that correction polishes can refine further. On badly damaged paint you often need the full combination of UltimateCut + FS 05-04 + PerfectFinish + NP 03-06.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpot repairs and blending areas: with spot resprays the repair has to be polished out and brought up to the gloss level of the surrounding paint. Depending on the grit of the paper used, the UltimateCut is needed as the first polishing step. In transition and blending areas you go gentler, so you don't take too much material off the surrounding paint that's already in good shape — here you keep the UltimateCut strictly on the repair itself, not on the blend.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCars with very thick clear coats (factory paint from the early 2000s or certain classic car resprays) will take repeated intensive work with the UltimateCut without getting into risky paint thickness territory. Modern cars with thinner clear coats (especially Asian brands and a few German manufacturers with special paints) need the abrasive energy dosed more carefully — one or two machine passes, then a thickness reading before you go on. That controlled approach isn't over-caution, it's professional standard for paint correction that lasts and doesn't compromise the car for future work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe UltimateCut in the polishing pyramid — position and combination strategies\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE polish line covers a full abrasive hierarchy for every level of damage. At the top of the cut scale sits the \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e as the cutting compound, followed by the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/a\u003e as the medium-cut correction stage. The finishing stages are the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e (after wet-sanding) and the NP 03-06 (finest high-gloss finish). That polishing pyramid lets you work any level of damage up in stages to a flawless gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers and reconditioning outfits running the full PROFILINE polish system, the decision logic is clear: scratch depth decides where you enter the pyramid. Damage deeper than P1000 → UltimateCut to start. Damage between P1500 and P2000 → PerfectFinish to start. Fine swirl marks only → NP 03-06 or OS 02-06 as a single stage. Working systematically by level of damage is professional standard: it saves time and stops you over-polishing the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with third-party cutting compounds, the UltimateCut has the advantage of system compatibility as a PROFILINE product: it's matched to the PROFILINE stages that follow and leaves a surface after the correction step that those products can take on ideally. You can mix cutting compounds from other makers with PROFILINE finishing polishes, but then the particle sizes aren't guaranteed to line up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut — sizes and what to pick\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1 litre and 5 litre, plus 2-packs and 3-packs. The 250 ml bottle suits beginners and occasional users, the 1 litre is for regular professional work, and the 5 litre is for body shops and high-throughput polishing operations. A full paint correction on one car takes about 20–50 ml of UltimateCut depending on paint condition and vehicle size — so a 1 litre bottle covers 20–50 full jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe UltimateCut belongs in the kit of every body shop and every detailer who offers paint correction after wet-sanding or heavy swirl removal as a service. It's not an everyday product for routine maintenance details, it's the specialist tool for the cases where you genuinely need maximum correction. The money you put into the UltimateCut comes back in far shorter working times on difficult paint — which feeds straight into how profitable your paint correction work is.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn short, the SONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut is the strongest correction tool in the PROFILINE polish range for every situation where milder polishes don't cut it. If you regularly polish out resprays, work on after P1000 wet-sanding or correct badly damaged older paint, the UltimateCut gives you the power and efficiency those demanding jobs need.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53519971909967,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410","price":23.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53519971942735,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000","price":68.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53519971975503,"sku":"D1-SNX-2395000","price":223.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53519972008271,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410_2","price":46.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53519972041039,"sku":"D1-SNX-2391410_3","price":70.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519972073807,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000_2","price":136.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53519972106575,"sku":"D1-SNX-2393000_3","price":205.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur.png?v=1730646033"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur","title":"PROFILINE EX \"04-06\" High-Gloss Polish (Finish)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHologram-free high-gloss finish with the SONAX EX 04-06 polish for dual-action machines\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX EX 04-06 do? A finishing polish with cut level 4 and gloss level 6 — built specifically for dual-action machines, it pulls out light paint defects and lays down a hologram-free high-gloss finish in a single pass, silicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDual-action machines are the go-to for a lot of detailers because they're safer to handle than rotaries — less heat build-up, less risk of holograms, less chance of burning through the clear coat. The catch: not every polish is built for the dual-action motion. Plenty of polishes that work brilliantly on the rotary only deliver a fraction of their power on a DA, because the lower heat slows the abrasive breakdown. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e was developed specifically for this machine type: its abrasive blend breaks down reliably even at the lower friction energy of a dual-action machine, and with a cut of 4\/5 and a gloss of 6\/5 it gets you a result on the DA that's almost identical to a two-step process of cutting and finishing polish on the rotary. If you work with a dual-action machine and want to correct light to medium paint defects, the EX 04-06 is the obvious pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for the dual-action motion.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formulation of the EX 04-06 is tuned to the specific kinematics of dual-action machines. The abrasive particles break down at lower temperature and lower pressure than with classic rotary polishes — meaning you get the full power on the DA without having to lean in. That behaviour makes the EX 04-06 especially beginner-friendly: even without years of polishing experience, moderate pressure and a mid-range speed get you a professional result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHologram-free high gloss.\u003c\/strong\u003e The gloss level of 6\/5 — the top mark in the SONAX system — means the polish leaves a finish that's free of holograms, swirls and buffer marks. On dark paint, where every defect shows up straight away, this is the point that matters. The EX 04-06 produces a result on black or dark-blue paint that stays flawless even under direct sunlight and LED inspection light.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and bodyshop-safe.\u003c\/strong\u003e Like all SONAX PROFILINE polishes, the EX 04-06 is silicone-free. In bodyshops that polish and paint side by side, that's a must — silicone residue on neighbouring vehicles or shop surfaces can cause craters during a respray. Being silicone-free also makes the EX 04-06 a first choice for prep ahead of a ceramic coating, where an absolutely silicone-free surface gives the best bonding.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the EX 04-06 with a medium foam pad (orange in the SONAX colour system) at speed 4 to 5 on the dual-action machine. Drop three pea-sized dabs onto the pad, spread them at low speed and then work with moderate pressure in slow, overlapping passes. The key to a perfect result: slow machine movement. Move the machine about two to three centimetres per second across the surface — noticeably slower than most beginners do it by instinct. That's the only way the abrasives get enough contact time to fully cut out the defects and bring up the high gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFinishing polish for dual-action machines — why the EX range is formulated differently from rotary polishes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e belongs to the EX range, which SONAX developed specifically for dual-action machines. The technical background: a dual-action machine moves the pad on a circular orbit with a simultaneous rotation — this double motion generates less friction energy per unit of area than the pure rotation of a rotary machine. Polishes built for the rotary need that higher energy to break their abrasives down fully. On a dual-action machine they only break down partway — the result is coarse leftover particles that leave micro-marring and holograms instead of bringing up gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX range solves this with an adapted particle size and binder matrix. The abrasives are smaller and break down at lower energy input — perfect for the dual-action motion. The flip side: on a rotary the abrasive breaks down too fast, and the polish loses its cut before the defects are fully removed. So the EX 04-06 is no replacement for rotary polishes like the CutMax or Cut+Finish — it's their counterpart for a different class of machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day, the difference shows up most on hard European clear coats, which are tougher to work with the dual-action machine than soft Japanese paints. On these clears the EX 04-06 gives enough working time and cut to keep performing consistently even after several polishing passes — something cheaper DA polishes often can't manage, because their formulation is spent after the first pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne practical angle: plenty of detailers own both a dual-action and a rotary machine and switch depending on the panel. On big, flat areas like the bonnet and roof the rotary is more efficient, while on edges, body lines and curved sections the dual-action machine gives you more safety margin. In that mixed workflow the EX 04-06 is the finishing product for all the dual-action sections — while a polish like the Cut+Finish or PerfectFinish handles the rotary sections. If you want to stick with a single machine and prefer the dual-action, the EX range gives you a complete system that asks for no compromise on performance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use a dual-action polish properly — speed, pressure and machine movement\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e on the dual-action machine follows a clear scheme: a medium to soft polishing pad, a mid-range speed (step 4 to 5 on most machines), moderate pressure and slow machine movement. That combination is the key to a hologram-free result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDrop three pea-sized dabs of polish onto the pad and spread them at the lowest speed across the panel. Then step up to working speed and polish in slow, overlapping passes across the whole section. Slow here means: two to three centimetres per second. Most beginners move the machine too fast — the pad glides over the surface without enough time to cut the defects out. A slower movement increases the contact time per unit of area and uses the abrasive fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epressure\u003c\/strong\u003e should be moderate — just enough that the pad sits evenly on the surface. Unlike the rotary, where more pressure means more cut, the dual-action machine reacts to excess pressure in reverse: the dual-action motion gets choked, the pad spins slower, and the cut drops instead of climbing. If you notice the machine bogging down under pressure, you're leaning in too hard — back off and let the machine do the work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake: too much polish on the pad. Three pea-sized dabs are enough for a section of about fifty by fifty centimetres — more product dilutes the cut and stretches the working time without improving the result. If the polish is still sitting milky-thick on the surface after the pass, you've either laid on too much or moved the machine too fast. Cut the amount on the next section and move the machine slower — the result picks up straight away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn temperature: the dual-action machine generates less heat than a rotary, but on dark paint in summer sun the surface temperature can still get problematic. Work in a shaded spot or garage and check the temperature now and then with the back of your hand. Ideal ambient temperatures are between fifteen and twenty-five degrees Celsius at moderate humidity, to keep working conditions optimal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the polishing pass, wipe the residue off with a clean, soft microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED inspection lamp. On dark paint it's worth an extra check under direct sunlight — some holograms and swirls only show up under natural light, because the LED lamp hits at a different angle. Once you're happy with the result, comes the degreasing with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — only then do you see the actual result without polishing oils.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting light to medium paint defects — the ideal use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e isn't built for heavy defect correction — for that there's the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut\"\u003eEX 05-05 with cut 5\/5\u003c\/a\u003e. The strength of the EX 04-06 sits in a different area: correcting light to medium defects in a single pass while producing the best possible finish at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common use case is the \u003cstrong\u003esingle-stage polish on near-new paint\u003c\/strong\u003e. Vehicles one to three years old typically show wash marring, light swirls and a general dullness in the clear coat. The EX 04-06 removes these surface defects in one pass and leaves a high gloss that sits above factory-new level. For detailers who regularly work on lease returns or young used cars, that's the typical job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother scenario: \u003cstrong\u003efinishing after a cutting stage\u003c\/strong\u003e. When the paint has first been worked with a cutting polish (the EX 05-05, say, or the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax\u003c\/a\u003e), the EX 04-06 removes the leftover micro-marring and holograms in the second step and brings the paint to a high gloss. This two-step process — cutting polish plus finishing polish — is the gold standard in professional paint correction and gets you the best results on demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX 04-06 is also ideal for \u003cstrong\u003eprep ahead of a coating\u003c\/strong\u003e. Before a ceramic coating or paint protection film goes on, the paint has to be in the best possible condition — any defect locked in under the coating stays visible for its entire service life. The EX 04-06 gives you exactly the surface a coating needs: defect-free, hologram-free and free of silicone residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne scenario that often gets underrated: \u003cstrong\u003eworking on vehicles with part-wrapped sections\u003c\/strong\u003e. When a vehicle has both painted and wrapped panels, the polish must not get onto the film — polishing residue can settle into the film texture and is hard to get out of there. The controlled way the dual-action machine works, combined with the EX 04-06, minimises the risk of splatter and lets you work precisely right up to the film edge. For these situations the dual-action machine clearly beats the rotary, because it slings off less product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDual-action polish comparison — EX 04-06 vs. EX 05-05 vs. NP 03-06\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range offers three finishing polishes to choose from, differing in cut and gloss:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e is the more aggressive sibling: cut 5\/5, gloss 5\/5. It comes in when the defects are too deep for the EX 04-06 — things like P1500 sanding marks, heavier weathering or scratches that go beyond the typical wash marring. The gloss level of 5\/5 is good, but not at the level of the EX 04-06 — for the highest finishing standards, a pass with the EX 04-06 follows the EX 05-05.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eNP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the gentlest option: cut 3\/5, gloss 6\/5. It's meant for paint that barely shows any defects and just needs that final polishing touch — after a thorough cutting stage, say, or on new cars that only need a light refresh. The lower cut also makes it the safest pick on extremely thin clear coats or historic paint, where every bit of material removal should be kept to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is the all-rounder between these extremes: enough cut for typical everyday defects, maximum gloss for a professional finish. For most single-stage polishes on the dual-action machine it's the best choice — versatile enough for day-to-day work, strong enough on the finishing side for demanding dark paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the EX 04-06 — bottle sizes and workflow recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 04-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. The 250 ml bottle is enough for several complete vehicle polishes — product use on the dual-action machine is moderate, because the polish works efficiently and needs few reloads. The 1000 ml bottle is the standard size for shops and keen private users who polish regularly. With the value combo you save on top of buying single — especially for detailers who run the EX 04-06 as their standard finishing polish, the stock pack pays off fast.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the optimal workflow on the dual-action machine we recommend: on light defects, the EX 04-06 as a single-step solution on a medium pad. On medium defects, first the EX 05-05 on a hard pad, then the EX 04-06 on a soft pad for the finish. After that, degrease with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e and, if needed, seal with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-polymernetshield-lackversiegelung\"\u003ePolymerNetShield\u003c\/a\u003e or a CeramicCoating of your choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA note on storage: the EX 04-06 tends to separate slightly when left standing for a while. Shake the bottle thoroughly before every use, until the consistency is evenly creamy. Store the product frost-free and sealed — frozen polish loses its abrasive structure and won't go on evenly after that, and should be thrown away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor beginners stuck between the EX 04-06 and a rotary polish, the recommendation is clear: if you've got no machine-polishing experience yet, start with the dual-action machine and the EX 04-06. The combination is far more forgiving than a rotary with an aggressive cutting polish. You can learn the technique calmly, without fear of burn-throughs or holograms. The result might not quite reach what an experienced polisher gets on the rotary — but it'll be solid, safe and more than enough for the vast majority of needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520265773391,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520265806159,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000","price":37.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265871695,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520265904463,"sku":"D1-SNX-2421410_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520265937231,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_2","price":74.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520265969999,"sku":"D1-SNX-2423000_3","price":112.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur.png?v=1730648016"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut","title":"PROFILINE EX \"05-05\" Cutting Compound (Heavy-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches on the dual-action polisher with the SONAX EX 05-05 cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX EX 05-05 do? A heavy-cut cutting compound for dual-action polishers with a cut rating of 5\/5 and a gloss rating of 5\/5 — it removes deep scratches, sanding marks up to P1500 and heavy weathering, and with the HybridwollPad it gets you results on a rotary level.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a long time, dual-action polishers were seen as the safe but weak tool — fine for finishing work, but no good for serious defect correction. Deep scratches, sanding marks and heavy weathering were the domain of the rotary, because only it built enough friction energy for the material removal you need. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e breaks with that limitation. Paired with a HybridwollPad, this cutting compound gets you results on the dual-action that used to be reserved for the rotary: sanding marks up to P1500 disappear in a single pass, deep scratches and etching are pulled out reliably, and the 5\/5 gloss rating leaves a finish that often needs no extra polishing step. For detailers who want to — or have to — work the dual-action only, because the rotary is too risky on certain paints, the EX 05-05 is the cutting compound of choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHeavy-cut on the dual-action.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a cut rating of 5\/5, the EX 05-05 is the most aggressive polish in the SONAX EX line-up. Its abrasive blend is built so it still generates enough cut even at the lower friction energy of dual-action motion, enough to remove deep scratches and sanding marks up to P1500. Paired with the HybridwollPad — a pad that combines foam and lambswool fibres — cutting power climbs noticeably again, because the wool fibres add friction that pure foam pads simply can't deliver.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh gloss at the same time.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 5\/5 gloss rating shows the EX 05-05 doesn't just cut, it polishes too. The abrasives break down progressively over the polishing pass — from coarse to fine — and leave a surface that on many paints is already the end result you wanted. When the finish demands the very best, a short pass with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/a\u003e follows, but for everyday needs the EX 05-05 often does the job as a one-step solution.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free and low-dust.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula is free of silicones and, thanks to its optimised consistency, works almost dust-free. In paint shops the silicone-free build eliminates the contamination risk, and the low-dust working saves time on the clean-up. Especially with heavy defect correction that takes several passes and a lot of polishing work, the low-dust formula makes a real difference in comfort and in how clean your work area stays.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For maximum cut on the dual-action, pair the EX 05-05 with the SONAX HybridwollPad and work at speed 5 to 6 (depending on the machine). Apply moderate pressure and guide the machine across the surface at two to three centimetres per second — clearly slower than when you're finish-polishing. The trick: let the machine do the work and use the weight of the tool as your natural down-pressure. Don't force the machine into the surface — that stalls the dual-action motion and reduces the cut instead of raising it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound for the dual-action — how the EX 05-05 gets rotary results on a DA\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe key to the performance of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e lies in the match between abrasive and pad. The abrasive particles are sized to work best at the specific friction energy of a dual-action polisher: big enough for effective cut, small enough for controlled particle break-down. On a rotary these particles would break too fast and lose their cutting power — so the EX 05-05 isn't a universal polish, it's a specialist for the dual-action motion.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe HybridwollPad amplifies this effect: the lambswool fibres create extra micro-friction on the surface that boosts material removal, while the foam core keeps the heat in check. The result: a cut on the dual-action that gets close to the level of a rotary with a medium-hard foam pad — without the rotary's risks (holograms, hot spots, burning through on edges).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe EX 05-05 plus HybridwollPad combo does have its limits, though: sanding marks of P1000 and coarser can't be fully removed in a single pass on the dual-action, even with this aggressive pairing. Here the rotary with a polish like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax\u003c\/a\u003e stays on top. The EX 05-05 covers the range from P1500 down to light P1200 marks — and in that range it gives you a result on the dual-action that makes switching to the rotary unnecessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor anyone who rarely uses their dual-action for heavy-cut, an important note: the performance of the EX 05-05 depends a lot on the quality of the dual-action. Cheap entry-level DAs with a short throw (8 mm) and a weak motor hit their limits fast on heavy defects. Machines with a long throw (15 to 21 mm) like the common pro models deliver far more friction energy and tap the EX 05-05's potential better. If you're planning to do heavy-cut work on the dual-action regularly, the investment in a long-throw machine pays off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the EX 05-05 the right way — pad choice, speed and technique\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e shows its full strength paired with the HybridwollPad. For less aggressive jobs — say on near-new paint with only light scratches — a hard foam pad (orange) works too, giving slightly less cut at slightly higher gloss. On a soft finishing pad the compound loses too much cutting power — for pure finish-polishing the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-04-06-hochglanz-politur\"\u003eEX 04-06\u003c\/a\u003e is the better call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePut three to four pea-sized dots on the pad and spread the compound over the panel at a low speed. Step up to speed 5 to 6 and work in slow, overlapping passes across the section. A typical section — about half a fender — takes three to four minutes on the dual-action. By the end of the pass the compound should sit clear and thin on the surface — the sign that the abrasives have fully broken down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003emachine handling\u003c\/strong\u003e on the EX 05-05 differs from a finishing polish: with heavy-cut you can apply a bit more pressure than when finish-polishing, but only ever enough that the dual-action motion doesn't come to a stop. The moment you feel the machine stalling or vibrating, take the pressure off straight away. A stalling pad creates localised heat that can cause thermal damage on sensitive paints — showing up as light discolouration or dullness that even re-polishing can no longer fully correct.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you work on \u003cstrong\u003eedges and raised lines\u003c\/strong\u003e, take extra care: the clearcoat there is often only half as thick as on the flats. Drop the pressure clearly in these areas and rather run one extra pass with little pressure than a single pass with too much cut. A coating thickness gauge before you start gives you certainty about the room you've got to work with.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the pass, wipe the residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check under LED light. If defects are still visible, repeat the pass on the same section. With the EX 05-05, two to three passes per panel on hard European paints are nothing unusual — on softer Japanese or Korean paints a single pass is often enough. Match your expectations to the paint type and plan in enough time, instead of giving up after one pass when the result isn't right yet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDegrease the polished surface afterwards with \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e to see the true result. Polishing oils can visually mask leftover defects — under Prepare it becomes clear whether all the scratches have really gone or whether another pass is needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHeavy-cut on the dual-action — typical use cases\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main field for the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e is defect correction on paints that are too sensitive for the rotary, or where you prefer the safety of the dual-action. Day-to-day, that comes down to a few scenarios:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen you're \u003cstrong\u003edetailing dark paints\u003c\/strong\u003e (black, dark blue, dark grey), the dual-action is the safer call, because it throws fewer holograms than the rotary. On these demanding colours the EX 05-05 delivers enough cut to remove scratches and swirls, and the 5\/5 gloss rating keeps the rework to a minimum. On black paint a short finishing pass with the EX 04-06 often makes sense, to pull out that last bit of deep gloss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003ecars with a thin clearcoat layer\u003c\/strong\u003e — measured with a coating thickness gauge — the dual-action gives you more control over material removal. The EX 05-05 removes defects efficiently, but more controlled than a rotary polish, because the dual-action motion takes off less per unit of time. That gives you the chance to check progress after every pass and stop in time, before the clearcoat gets too thin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor \u003cstrong\u003escratch removal in hard-to-reach spots\u003c\/strong\u003e — door-handle recesses, swage lines, transitions between panels — the compact dual-action with a small pad (75 mm or 125 mm) is a better fit than the big rotary. The EX 05-05 works on all common pad sizes and adapts flexibly to the panel geometry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne more scenario that pro detailers value: \u003cstrong\u003ecorrecting transport damage and car-wash scratches\u003c\/strong\u003e on new vehicles. Plenty of new cars arrive at the dealer with fine to medium scratches — caused by film removal, transport securing or careless cleaning out on the lot. The EX 05-05 removes these defects on the safe dual-action, without putting the thin factory paint at risk. Combined with a final ceramic coating, the car ends up better protected than it was in delivery condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound comparison — EX 05-05 vs. CutMax vs. Cut+Finish\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe three key cutting compounds in the SONAX PROFILINE range cover different machine types and demands:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the cutting compound for the rotary — maximum cut (6\/5), moderate gloss (4\/5), optimised for the high friction energy of the rotary. It's the first choice for heavy defects from P1000 up on the rotary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eCut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e is the one-step solution for the rotary — same cut value as the EX 05-05, but with a high-gloss finish at the same time. It covers the range from P1500 up and combines cutting and finishing in a single pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05 (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e is the counterpart to the Cut+Finish for the dual-action: same performance values, but a formula optimised for the kinematics of the DA. If you own a dual-action and want to do heavy defect correction, you reach for the EX 05-05. If you've got a rotary, you take the Cut+Finish or CutMax. A universal polish that works equally well on both machine types doesn't exist — the physical demands of the two motions are too different. That's why SONAX deliberately developed separate product lines for rotary and dual-action with the PROFILINE range, rather than offering compromise products that don't show their full strength on either machine.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the EX 05-05 — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX EX 05-05\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1000 ml. For the occasional job detailing your own car, the 250 ml bottle is enough — a full defect correction uses between 50 and 100 ml depending on the size of the car and how bad the defects are. The 1000 ml bottle is the more economical option for detailing businesses and keen enthusiasts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the optimal workflow for the dual-action, the EX 05-05 is the first step (heavy-cut), followed by the EX 04-06 as the finishing step and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for degreasing and checking the result. This two-step process on the dual-action gets you results that come close to a three-step process on the rotary — at clearly lower risk of holograms and burn-through.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnyone with both EX-series polishes on the shelf — the EX 05-05 for heavy-cut and the EX 04-06 for finish — is set up for every dual-action job. The two products complement each other perfectly: the EX 05-05 removes the heavy defects, the EX 04-06 pulls out the last bit of gloss. Together they replace a three-product system (cutting paste, cutting compound, finishing polish) of the kind that's standard with the rotary — fewer products, fewer pad changes, fewer things to get wrong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor economical use: the product consumption of the EX 05-05 on heavy-cut work runs a bit higher than on a finishing polish, because you need more passes per panel. For a full defect correction on the dual-action, count on around 80 to 120 ml per car — depending on the size of the car and how bad the defects are. The 250 ml bottle does two to three cars that way, the 1000 ml bottle eight to twelve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne tip for pad care: the HybridwollPad should be cleaned thoroughly after every car — polish residue in the wool fibres hardens and reduces cutting power on the next job. Rinse the pad out under warm water after the work and let it dry fully before you use it again. You can tell a worn-out HybridwollPad by the wool fibres being flattened and no longer springing back — that's when it's time for a new pad. Rather invest in a fresh pad than in an extra polishing pass: the cut of a new pad is noticeably higher than that of a worn one, and the result more even. Professional outfits change the HybridwollPad after five to eight cars at the latest — beyond that the wool structure is so compacted that the cut drops off noticeably and you're no longer getting the full efficiency out of the EX 05-05.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520446619983,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520446652751,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000","price":40.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520446685519,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410_2","price":34.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520446718287,"sku":"D1-SNX-2451410_3","price":52.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520446751055,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000_2","price":80.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3 x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520446783823,"sku":"D1-SNX-2453000_3","price":121.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut.png?v=1730649133"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE CutMax \"6\/4\" cutting compound (down to P1000)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches and sanding marks with the SONAX CutMax cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX CutMax do? A cutting compound with maximum cut (6\/4) that pulls out sanding marks from P1000 grit, deep scratches and paint overspray — low-dust thanks to Low Dust Technology, dialled in for rotary machines.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhen the paint is hammered badly enough that a normal polish just won't cut it anymore, the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e steps in. With a cut rating of 6 on the SONAX scale, it's the most aggressive polish in the PROFILINE range — built for jobs where you need maximum material removal: deep scratches, P1000 sanding marks, orange peel, paint fog and badly weathered paintwork. Despite that heavy cut, the CutMax works almost dust-free thanks to Low Dust Technology and leaves a gloss level of 4\/5, which in most cases only needs a quick finishing step after it. For body shops and pro detailers, the CutMax is the tool of choice when efficiency on defect removal beats everything else.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMaximum cut for heavy defects.\u003c\/strong\u003e The abrasive blend in the CutMax is built for fast, deep cutting. It pulls out sanding marks from P1000 in a single pass — a range lighter polishes simply can't reach. Baked-on bug splatter, deep scratches and years of neglected weathering get cut away just as effectively. That cut saves real time in the bay, because you need fewer passes than with milder products.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLow Dust Technology for clean work.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a lot of polishes, heavy cut also means heavy dust — a problem that settles into panel gaps, seals and across the whole workspace and needs serious cleanup. The CutMax solves that with its dedicated Low Dust formula: the compound stays on the pad and on the surface through the whole process instead of dusting off. That saves you the cleanup and keeps polishing dust out of freshly painted areas — a critical point in body shops.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGood gloss despite the heavy cut.\u003c\/strong\u003e A gloss level of 4\/5 is remarkable for a cutting compound this aggressive. Plenty of competing products with a comparable cut leave a dull, hazy finish that absolutely needs a finishing step. The CutMax gets much closer to the end result — on a lot of paints a quick pass with a finishing polish like the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e is all it takes to hit showroom gloss.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Run the CutMax on the rotary with a hard foam pad (white) or a lambswool pad for maximum cut. Start at 1000 rpm to spread the compound out, then take it up to 1500–1800 rpm for the actual cutting. Work in rows with 50 percent overlap and lay down even, moderate pressure — the abrasives need friction, not heavy pressure. After each pass, check with an LED light whether the defects are fully gone before you move to the finishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut 6\/4 — how the CutMax can take heavy paint defects out in one pass\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e hits its high cut through a mix of specially sized abrasive particles and a formula that keeps the cut steady across the whole pass. Unlike basic cutting compounds, whose cut drops off noticeably after the first thirty seconds because the abrasives break down too fast, the CutMax holds its cutting power through the entire work cycle. In practice that means: one pass of two to three minutes per section is enough to fully remove even deep sanding marks — instead of the three or four passes you'd need with a weaker polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe gloss level of 4\/5 shows the CutMax isn't a pure cutting paste but a cutting compound with controlled particle breakdown. The abrasives start out aggressive and break down into finer particles over the pass, which already take care of part of the finish. The result is a surface that's noticeably smoother and glossier than after a pure cutting paste — but not yet at the level of a dedicated finishing polish. For shops that need to get to a presentable result fast after wet sanding, that in-between stage is often already enough when concours quality isn't on the table.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important difference to the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-cut-finish-einstufen-politur\"\u003eSONAX Cut+Finish (5\/5)\u003c\/a\u003e: the CutMax has the higher cut and comes in where the Cut+Finish doesn't pull enough material anymore — so with P1000 sanding marks, deep scratches and heavy weathering. The Cut+Finish is the one-step solution from P1500, the CutMax is the heavy hammer for everything below that. In a lot of shops both products sit side by side: the Cut+Finish for most of the day-to-day work, the CutMax for the heavy cases.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a cutting compound right — machine, pad and technique for maximum cut\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e shows its full potential on the rotary machine. The pure rotation builds more friction and heat than a dual-action machine — exactly the energy a cutting compound at this level needs to deliver maximum cut. It works on a dual-action machine too, but with a clearly reduced cut: you need more passes and more time for the same result. If you regularly tackle heavy correction, the rotary is the right investment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epad choice\u003c\/strong\u003e heavily shapes the result. For maximum cut, go for a hard foam pad (white in the SONAX colour system) or a lambswool pad. The lambswool pad gives the highest cut of all pad types but also leaves the roughest surface — ideal for the first pass on heavy defects, followed by a foam pad for the refinement. A medium pad reduces the cut and suits paints that need less correction, or sensitive areas like edges and creases, where too aggressive a cut could burn through the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor application, put three to four pea-sized dots on the pad and spread the compound across the panel at low speed. Then take it up to working speed and polish in rows with fifty percent overlap. Work in sections of around forty by forty centimetres — small enough to stay in control, big enough to make efficient progress. Listen to the machine: a steady hum tells you the pad is working cleanly on the surface. A rattle or vibration points to too much pressure or a clogged pad.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the cutting pass, wipe the compound residue off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under an LED light. If the defects are fully gone, the finishing step follows. If marks are still showing, repeat the pass — better a second controlled pass than a single one with too much pressure that can cause holograms or heat spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common beginner mistake working with the CutMax: too much product on the pad. A cutting compound needs less product than a finishing polish, because the cut comes from the abrasives, not from the volume of paste. Three to four small dots are enough for a section of forty by forty centimetres. Too much product thins out the cutting action, drags out the pass and makes wiping harder. In pro shops, experienced polishers sometimes work with even less product — they make up for the smaller amount with precise machine control that gets the most out of the abrasive that's there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important note on \u003cstrong\u003eheat control\u003c\/strong\u003e: the rotary builds serious heat when you work with a cutting compound. On dark paints the surface temperature can climb past seventy degrees in a few seconds — a temperature that can damage the clear coat. Check the temperature regularly by running the back of your hand over the surface. When it gets uncomfortably warm, let the section cool briefly before you carry on. On edges, creases and raised lines the heat build-up is especially critical, because the paint layer there is thinner than on flat panels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrecting heavy paint defects — the ideal use cases for the CutMax\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe main job for the \u003cstrong\u003eCutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e is defect correction after wet sanding with P1000 to P1200 grit. In the body shop that's the most common use: after a blend-in or spot repair, the transition between new and old paint gets wet sanded, and the CutMax then takes the sanding marks out in a single pass. The compound being silicone-free is key here — in a shop environment where paint goes on every day, there can be no silicone risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003ereconditioning badly neglected vehicles\u003c\/strong\u003e the CutMax shows its strength too. Paints that have been exposed to sun, bird droppings, tree sap and industrial fallout for years build up an oxidised layer that lighter polishes can't get through. The CutMax cuts that layer away efficiently and exposes the undamaged paint underneath. The result is often striking: colours that looked dull and faded show the full depth and brilliance of the original paint again after correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003enew-car reconditioning\u003c\/strong\u003e the CutMax comes into play too, when the factory paint shows heavy orange peel. A wet sand with P1000 levels the surface, and the CutMax brings the gloss back. This job takes experience, because the clear coat on new vehicles is often thinner than on older paint systems — a paint thickness reading before sanding is a must, so you don't break through the clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn \u003cstrong\u003epartial PPF wraps\u003c\/strong\u003e on front ends the CutMax sometimes comes in indirectly: the paint under the film gets polished before the wrap to clear up any defects that would show through the clear film. The CutMax removes scratches and swirls fast and effectively, and the finishing polish after it leaves a flawlessly smooth base for the film to bond to.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhere the CutMax hits its limits: on scratches that reach down into the base coat or the primer, no polish helps — here you need to respray the affected spot. The CutMax also can't replace clear coat that's already peeling over a large area. In cases like that it's better to be honest with the customer about the limits of polishing than to promise a result you can't reach. Honest communication builds the customer's trust over the long run far more than a cosmetic compromise that shows again after a few weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCutting compound comparison — CutMax vs. UltimateCut vs. EX 05-05\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE range there are three products in play for heavy defect removal: CutMax, \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eUltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ex-05-05-schleif-politur-heavy-cut\"\u003eEX 05-05\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eUltimateCut (6+\/3)\u003c\/strong\u003e has the highest cut in the whole range — even higher than the CutMax. It's reserved for the most extreme cases: the worst weathering, P800 sanding marks, massive orange peel. The gloss level of 3\/5 shows that after the UltimateCut a finishing step is definitely needed — often even a two-step finish. The UltimateCut is the tool for specialists, not for daily use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eEX 05-05 (5\/5)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits on the other side of the spectrum: the same cut and same gloss as the Cut+Finish, but with a different formula that works better on certain paint systems. It's the alternative for anyone who doesn't get the result they want with the Cut+Finish — for example on particularly hard ceramic clear coats, where the EX series has traditionally been strong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eCutMax (6\/4)\u003c\/strong\u003e sits between these extremes: more cut than the EX 05-05, but a clearly better gloss than the UltimateCut. For the bulk of heavy defect-correction work — wet sanding from P1000, deep scratches, heavy weathering — the CutMax is the optimal choice, because it gets the defect removal done in one step and keeps the finishing step after it short.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the CutMax — bottle sizes and workflow recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX CutMax\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml, 1000 ml and 5 litres. The 250 ml bottle is enough for several complete vehicle corrections and is the ideal entry point for private users and smaller outfits. The 1000 ml bottle is the standard size for shops with regular polishing demand. The 5-litre container is aimed at high-throughput businesses — the per-litre price is lowest here, and the wide opening makes it easier to dispense with a dosing bottle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best polishing workflow we recommend the combination: CutMax as the cutting compound on the rotary, followed by the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e as the finishing step on the dual-action machine, and finally \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e for degreasing and result check. This three-step combo covers the whole defect-correction process — from heavy cutting to a finish that's ready to seal. Anyone who wants to lay down a long-term sealant afterwards already has the perfect base with Prepare.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn shelf life and storage: like all cutting compounds, the CutMax can separate slightly if it sits for a while. Shake the bottle thoroughly before every use until the consistency is homogeneous and creamy again. Store the product frost-free and sealed — frozen compound loses its abrasive structure and is useless after that. Stored properly, the CutMax keeps its full performance over the whole shelf life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA closing practical note on the \u003cstrong\u003ecost-effective use\u003c\/strong\u003e in the shop: the CutMax has a higher per-litre price than consumer polishes from the DIY store, but the product consumption per vehicle is much lower. The concentrated formula means you get by with three to four dots per section — a 250 ml bottle lasts for several complete vehicle corrections. Measured by result per euro spent, the CutMax is therefore more economical than cheaper alternatives that need double or triple the product and still take more passes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520611148111,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410","price":19.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520611180879,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000","price":60.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53520611213647,"sku":"D1-SNX-2465000","price":229.43,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520611246415,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410_2","price":38.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520611279183,"sku":"D1-SNX-2461410_3","price":58.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520611311951,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000_2","price":120.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520611344719,"sku":"D1-SNX-2463000_3","price":181.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur.png?v=1730650207"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-os-02-06-hochglanz-politur-versiegelung-one-step","title":"PROFILINE OS \"02-06\" High-Gloss Polish with Sealant (One-Step)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eHigh gloss and sealing in one step — SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 do? This one-step polish pairs fine paint correction with a built-in protective sealant — high gloss, light swirl removal and instant paint protection in a single pass, ideal for maintenance jobs and time-tight detailing workflows.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day in detailing there are jobs where a full multi-stage polish isn't needed — or just doesn't pay off: new-car prep with barely any swirling, regular maintenance work on well-kept cars, or fleet jobs on a tight clock. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e was built for exactly those cases: a pro-grade one-step polish that levels light hologramming and swirl marks in a single pass while laying down a protective sealant layer at the same time. The payoff: high gloss and paint protection without a separate sealing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eOne-step technology: correction and sealing at once.\u003c\/strong\u003e Standard polishing splits paint correction and sealing into separate steps — polish first, wipe down with a panel wipe, then seal. The OS 02-06 folds those steps together with a hybrid formula: fine abrasive particles correct light surface defects while you work the panel, and the built-in sealant polymer lays down as a protective layer on the freshly levelled clear coat. Three steps shrink to one — with no give on gloss on suitable cars.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFine cut for light swirl marks and hologramming.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cut of the OS 02-06 sits mid-range on the SONAX scale at \"02-06\": fine enough for finishing passes and one-step work, still strong enough to pull light to medium swirl marks. On forgiving paint (hard factory clear coats, say, or newer soft paints in good shape) the OS 02-06 leaves a finish that's sealing-ready with no follow-up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt-in sealant protection straight after polishing.\u003c\/strong\u003e The polymer additive in the one-step formula forms a thin, even protective layer on the clear coat once you've buffed it out. That layer boosts hydrophobicity, lifts the gloss a touch and gives you a first line of defence against moisture, dirt and UV. The protection won't last like a dedicated ceramic or polymer sealant, but for cars on short detailing intervals — or as a first protective layer after a baseline job — it does the trick.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The OS 02-06 gives its best with a combo pad (medium-firm foam pads or combi microfibre pads) that carries the fine abrasive particles well and spreads the sealant polymer evenly across the surface at the same time. Run your dual-action polisher at 4–5 for the correction phase, then drop to 2–3 for the final finishing pass so the sealant polymer buffs out evenly. One thing: if you're putting a full ceramic sealant over the top afterwards, degrease first with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-prepare-reiniger-kontrollspray-entfetter\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Prepare\u003c\/a\u003e — the OS 02-06's sealant polymer has to come off before a new coating, or it'll hurt adhesion. On cars getting nothing but the OS 02-06, you can skip that step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eOne-step polishing technology — correction and sealing fused into one formula\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe technical trick of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e is fusing two normally incompatible jobs into one formula: abrasive polishing and protective-layer build. A pure correction polish needs to stay free of waxy or polymer ingredients that would wedge between abrasive and paint and dull the cut. A pure sealant, the other way round, can't carry any abrasion that would tear the fresh protective layer straight back off. The OS 02-06 squares that circle with a specifically tuned particle size and an optimised formulation approach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe finely milled abrasive particles in the OS 02-06 are sized so they do their correcting during the active polishing phase — when the pad is driven across the panel under pressure and speed. As the polish buffs out (less pressure, lower speed), the remaining polymer parts of the formula lay an even film across the cleaned surface. That sequencing — cut first, then protective-layer build — is what lets both jobs live in one product without stepping on each other.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS 02-06's sealing component is built as short-term protection that holds for several months, but it isn't on par with a full polymer or ceramic sealant. For cars detailed regularly (every 3–6 months) where lasting ceramic-coating protection isn't the goal, this level of protection is plenty. For cars where maximum sealant durability is the goal, the two-step route (OS 02-06 or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e for the polish, then a panel wipe and a dedicated sealant) stays the first choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the OS 02-06 right — pad choice, machine and workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGetting the one-step polish right starts with the pad: for the OS 02-06, reach for combi pads or lightly abrasive foam pads that back up the correction side and spread the sealant side evenly. Pure finishing pads (very soft pads with no cut of their own) knock back the OS 02-06's correction power hard — when swirl removal is the priority, a combi pad is the better call. Very hard or abrasive pads, on the other hand, lift correction power but can work the sealant polymer in too aggressively and leave an uneven finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMachine work: start your one-step polishing at medium speed (4–5 on the dual-action polisher) with normal polishing pressure. Spread the polish on the pad first, then run overlapping passes across the panel — usually 2–3 passes for full swirl removal. For the final pass, drop the speed and ease off the pressure to buff the sealant polymer in evenly for the finish. Make your wipe-off pass with a clean microfibre cloth when the polish on the paint turns to its whitish, hazy phase — that's the sweet spot to wipe the sealant component off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for checking your work: once it's buffed out, check the panel under raking artificial light for any swirl marks left behind. The OS 02-06 pulls light swirls clean off and knocks medium swirls back hard — deep scratches and heavy hologramming stay visible with a one-step polish and call for a multi-stage process with a more aggressive correction step. The one-step polish is no substitute for multi-stage correction on badly marred paint; it's the right tool for paint where the damage level doesn't call for deeper correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the OS 02-06 fits — when the one-step polish is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e nails several typical detailing scenarios. New-car prep: fresh cars come in with transport-protection residue and fine hologramming from the factory polish, but no deeper swirls or scratches. The OS 02-06 pulls these fine surface defects off in one pass and leaves the paint sealing-ready — an economical, time-efficient answer for pre-delivery new-car prep.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMaintenance work and regular care: cars detailed every few months that have only picked up light, everyday swirl marks are where the OS 02-06's one-step efficiency shines. Instead of polishing the panel, then degreasing it, then sealing it, you get it all done in one go. For shops with high car throughput, that means real time saved per car — and a solid result alongside it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDealer prep and lot cars: used-car dealers and lease returns with manageable paint damage (everyday scratches, light swirls from the wash line) are a classic use case. The OS 02-06 lets you turn out a fast, convincing job that makes the car a lot more sellable, without the time hit of a full multi-stage detail. The sealant polymer in the OS 02-06 also protects the paint against the elements while the car sits on the lot.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe OS 02-06 compared — one-step vs. multi-stage polishing and the OS 04-05\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range carries two one-step polishes for different needs. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-os-04-05-hochglanz-politur-one-step\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 04-05\u003c\/a\u003e is the more aggressive one-step polish with a higher cut (04-05 on the SONAX scale) — it's built for paint with medium to heavier swirl marks the OS 02-06 doesn't correct enough. The OS 04-05 carries no built-in sealant and is positioned as a pure correction product that calls for a separate sealing step afterwards. The pick between the two comes down to how damaged the paint is: light swirls and maintenance work → OS 02-06, medium to heavier swirls → OS 04-05 followed by a separate sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst a multi-stage polish (coarse correction step + finishing polish + panel wipe + sealant), the one-step polish loses ground on badly damaged paint, as you'd expect: it can't pull deep scratches that need a coarse cutting step, and the built-in protection won't last like a dedicated ceramic coating. For paint that far gone, we recommend the multi-stage process with the NP 03-06 as the finishing polish. The OS 02-06's edge is the time and efficiency it buys you on light to lightly-medium damage — used on the right car, it turns out a professional finish that convinces the customer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers who want to cover both scenarios, we recommend the OS 02-06 as the standard one-step for the bulk of cars coming in (the ones in normal care condition) and the OS 04-05 as backup for more heavily damaged paint. Splitting your polishing workflow by damage level like this is a professional approach that maximises finish quality and keeps the work economical.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml and 1 litre, plus as 2-pack and 3-pack sets. The 250 ml bottle is ideal if you want to try the product out, or for working small areas (single panels, bonnet, roof). The 1 litre bottle is the most economical pick for regular users and pro shops — depending on pad size and car size, each application takes about 15–25 ml, so a litre is good for about 40–65 full car applications.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe OS 02-06 is a particularly good call for shops offering a high-quality, time-efficient detail as a standard service that want to lean on one product covering both correction and protection. For car washes and quick details on limited time, the one-step formula is economically attractive. And for private owners caring for their own car who want a simple process with no stack of chemicals, the OS 02-06 is a no-fuss answer for a full detail in a single pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line, the SONAX PROFILINE OS 02-06 is the right tool for every job where time and efficiency count without giving up paint correction and protection. If you want to combine professional gloss and instant paint protection on a car in good shape, the OS 02-06 is the most effective answer in the SONAX PROFILINE polishing range.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53520769352015,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410","price":9.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520769384783,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000","price":25.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53520769417551,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410_2","price":18.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53520769450319,"sku":"D1-SNX-2471410_3","price":28.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520769483087,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000_2","price":50.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520769515855,"sku":"D1-SNX-2473000_3","price":76.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-os-02-06-hochglanz-politur-versiegelung-one-step.png?v=1730651051"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger","title":"PROFILINE LeatherCleaner (foam cleaner)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean automotive leather like a pro — with the SONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner do? The foam-active leather cleaner pulls dirt, skin oils, sweat and dye transfer out of any smooth automotive leather — thoroughly and gently, without stressing the leather grain or robbing it of its natural suppleness.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAutomotive leather is one of the hardest-working interior surfaces there is — daily body contact, sweat, body oils, abrasion from clothing, sunlight and temperature swings all leave their mark. Regular all-purpose cleaners just don't belong on leather: anything too alkaline or solvent-heavy strips the moisture and natural oils out, damages the leather fibres and, over time, leads to brittleness and cracking. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is built as a specialist foam cleaner for automotive leather: foam-active for proper cleaning power down in the grain, mild enough to keep the fibres and natural suppleness intact, and strong enough to lift typical leather soiling completely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFoam-active formula for deep leather cleaning.\u003c\/strong\u003e As you lay it down, the LeatherCleaner builds a cleaning foam that works into the grain and loosens dirt, skin oils, sweat and dye particles from the pores. The foam consistency stops the leather from getting over-soaked along the way — a real advantage over liquid leather cleaners, which can wet the leather too heavily when you overdo it and leave discolouration or water rings behind.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH-gentle and leather-friendly.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cleaning formula is dialled in to respect the natural grain. Leather is a sensitive natural material — cleaners that are too acidic or too alkaline attack the fibres, pull out vital moisture and speed up ageing. The LeatherCleaner cleans effectively without altering the surface grain or clogging the pores, which you need open later on so the leather can take up care products.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe ideal prep for leather care.\u003c\/strong\u003e Clean, open-pored leather takes up a conditioner far better than dirty leather does. The LeatherCleaner is designed as the first step in the two-stage leather care routine: cleaning opens the pores and lays the groundwork so the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-leatherprotection-lederpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherProtection\u003c\/a\u003e that follows can drive its nourishing actives deep into the grain.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always clean the leather before you condition it — never the other way round. Lay the LeatherCleaner down with a soft leather brush or a slightly damp microfibre, work it in with gentle circular passes, and let the foam dwell for a moment before you lift it off with a clean, dry cloth. On heavily soiled leather (seats in cars with a high step-in or strong sun exposure, say) we'd go two rounds: the first pass lifts the surface grime, the second reaches the deeper soiling sitting in the pores. Once it's dry, jump straight to the LeatherProtection — that's how the leather stays supple and hard-wearing over the long haul.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFoam formula and how it works — how the LeatherCleaner cleans automotive leather\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe foam formula of this specialist leather cleaner runs on a surfactant-based cleaning principle tuned specifically to what automotive leather needs. Surfactants are surface-active substances that interact both with water (hydrophilic) and with fats and oils (lipophilic). In the leather cleaner, the surfactant molecules grab onto the grease and dirt particles in the pores, wrap around them and make them rinse away with water — no scrubbing pressure and no harsh chemicals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe foam consistency isn't there for looks; it does a job. Foam clings to the leather surface and doesn't run straight off, which gets you an even spread of cleaner even on vertical panels (door cards, seat backs). At the same time the foam structure keeps liquid water from soaking deep into the leather and causing water rings or swelling. That matters most on high-end, very fine leathers that don't react well to too much moisture.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother plus of foam cleaning over spray solutions is the better dosing control: you can see straight away where you've applied the cleaner and how much foam is left on the surface — overdoing it is easy to spot and easy to correct. With regular liquid cleaners the product can sink in deep before you even notice it. Foam cleaning gives you more control over how much you use and how it spreads, which is especially handy on cars with sensitive Nappa or aniline leather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn top of that, the leather cleaner is formulated to leave no residue on the surface that would stress the grain over time or block the uptake of care products. Chemical residue is a common problem when you use all-purpose cleaners on leather — they leave a thin film that makes the leather look clean but actually seals the pores. The knock-on effect is that the leather conditioner you apply next can't get deep enough into the grain, and its care effect drops off badly. Specialist cleaners like the LeatherCleaner sidestep this thanks to their leather-optimised make-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the LeatherCleaner right — the correct workflow for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the foam cleaner follows a clear sequence that breaks down into prep, cleaning and finishing. Prep: rough-dust the interior — knock loose dust particles off the leather with a soft brush or microfibre before the cleaner goes on. Dust that meets moisture during cleaning can leave faint smears or take the edge off the cleaner's effect. Clear the seats completely and check that the seat heater switch is off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCleaning: spray the LeatherCleaner straight onto the leather, or onto a leather brush. Work it into the surface with gentle, circular pressure — the brush reaches down into the grain and the seams, where most of the dirt collects. On perforated leather (vented seats) take extra care near the perforation holes: chase any foam out of the holes with a brush and lift it off thoroughly so nothing stays behind in the channels. A dwell time of 30–60 seconds is enough for normal soiling.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFinishing: lift the loosened dirt and cleaner residue with a clean, dry microfibre — the cloth takes up the foam, dirt and moisture and leaves a clean, slightly damp leather surface. For stubborn soiling (old ink marks, dye transfer from clothing) repeat the process — patience and a few passes with light pressure beat one go of hard scrubbing, which could mechanically damage the surface. Once it's dry (5–10 minutes), carry straight on with a leather conditioner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eLeather types and where to use it — which leather can take the LeatherCleaner?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAutomotive leather isn't all the same — depending on vehicle class, manufacturer and trim, you get different kinds of leather that vary a lot in grain, coating and sensitivity. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e suits all smooth, coated automotive leathers: Nappa leather (premium and luxury cars), semi-aniline leather (partly untreated, with a light coating), standard automotive leather (fully coated, tough) and perforated leather. All these leather types carry a protective layer (finish) that makes them accessible to cleaning products without stressing the grain directly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the LeatherCleaner isn't suited to is suede leather (nubuck) and suede-look surfaces like Alcantara — these absorbent, untreated leathers react differently to foam cleaner: the foam can mat the suede material, press the fibres flat and permanently change that typical velvety feel. For Alcantara and nubuck there are dedicated dry cleaners and suede brushes that work without liquid. It's also not made for synthetic leather (PU leather) — synthetic leather has no pores for the cleaner to get into and gets nothing out of the foam tech. For PU leather, mild all-purpose cleaners do the job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day, you can use the LeatherCleaner on leather seats, leather door cards, leather steering wheels, gear knobs, centre consoles and leather dashboard tops. On leather seats in particular, which take heavy everyday use, a clean every 3 months makes sense — that's the same care interval recommended for the LeatherProtection that follows. Regular cleaning stops dirt working its way deep into the grain and reacting there with moisture — a process that over the long term leads to leather breakdown and discolouration.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eLeather cleaners compared — when the PROFILINE LeatherCleaner is the best call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlongside the LeatherCleaner, the SONAX range has other leather cleaning and care products for different needs. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-leather-care-foam-lederpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCareFoam\u003c\/a\u003e rolls cleaning and care into one product — ideal for regular quick care, when you don't need a deep cleaning step. The upside of the combo: one job instead of two. The downside on heavily soiled leather: the care actives in the combo product can't get all the way in if dirt blocks the path — and that's when the standalone cleaning step with the LeatherCleaner is the more effective route.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst simple household cleaners or generic foam cleaners, the LeatherCleaner has clear advantages: the leather-friendly pH setting protects against fibre breakdown, and the formula is tuned to leave no residue that seals the surface or blocks the uptake of care products. All-purpose cleaners often leave film traces or chemical residue that stress the leather over time — a problem that just doesn't crop up with a specialist leather cleaner like the LeatherCleaner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor professional detailing outfits that regularly recondition cars with heavily soiled leather, the LeatherCleaner in the 1-litre bottle and as a multi-pack set is the most economical option. One litre is enough for several full interior cleans — and the leather sets (2x and 3x 1 litre) bring serious price advantages per litre. Outfits that offer leather cleaning and care as a fixed service package are best off pairing the LeatherCleaner directly with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-leatherprotection-lederpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherProtection\u003c\/a\u003e — the matched duo covers the whole leather care process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner — for whom and in what size?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is for anyone who wants to keep quality automotive leather in good shape for the long haul. It comes in three options: 1 litre (ideal for private owners with one or two cars), a 2x 1 litre set and a 3x 1 litre set for regular users and professional detailing outfits. With sensible use (don't overdo it, work it onto the dirty areas on purpose) one litre of leather cleaner lasts through plenty of full interior cleans — for a private owner with one car and a 3-month cleaning interval, a litre goes for years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe leather cleaner is an especially good shout for owners of cars with light leather colours (beige, grey, white), which show dirt far faster than dark leather and need cleaning more often. It's also a must for cars used by several people (family cars, company cars) — body contact and oils speed up leather ageing when they build up untreated in the grain. Sports cars with sport seats and heavy wear on the bolsters benefit a lot from the regular foam clean, which pulls friction sweat and abrasion out of the most stressed areas effectively.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOwners of classics and youngtimers with original leather should go especially carefully — old leather often carries fewer of the modern finish layers and reacts more sensitively to cleaning agents. Here a test on an inconspicuous spot (the underside of a seat, say) before you take the leather cleaner across the whole surface is the way to go. On older leather in good overall shape, a thorough care treatment right after cleaning makes sense, so the leather is conditioned again straight after the cleaning step. For classic-car leather especially, the leather care system of cleaning followed by care is the gentlest and most effective method for long-term preservation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor a complete leather care system we'd recommend pairing the PROFILINE LeatherCleaner (cleaning) with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-leatherprotection-lederpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherProtection\u003c\/a\u003e (care and protection) — both products are matched to each other and form a system that covers leather from a base clean through to protective conditioning. After cleaning, the pores open up, the conditioner gets in deeper and the protection lasts longer. A care routine that includes both steps is far more effective than cleaning alone or conditioning alone — and it keeps the leather measurably longer in good shape.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53520945938767,"sku":"D1-SNX-2703000","price":19.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520945971535,"sku":"D1-SNX-2703000_2","price":38.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53520946004303,"sku":"D1-SNX-2703000_3","price":58.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger_1-liter.png?v=1730652690"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur","title":"PROFILINE GlassPolish Glass Polish (Cerium Oxide Chemical-Mechanical)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove scratches and spots from glass chemically and mechanically — SONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish do? This cerium oxide glass polish removes scratches, water spots, streaks and oxidation from windscreens and vehicle glass chemically and mechanically — for a clear view and streak-free glass without heavy sanding work.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eScratched windscreens, baked-in water spots and oxidation on vehicle glass are more than a cosmetic flaw — they cut your view in rain, low sun and at night, and that can get dangerous. Normal glass cleaners lift loose dirt, but they do nothing about scratches worked into the surface or mineral deposits chemically baked on. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e solves that with a chemical-mechanical approach: cerium oxide, an abrasive made specifically for glass, polishes the surface on a microscopic level and pulls out surface scratches, water spots and that oxidised film — what you get is optically clear, streak-free glass with maximum light transmission.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCerium oxide technology for glass surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Cerium oxide is an abrasive developed specifically for glass, and it has a unique dual property: mechanical micro-abrasion for physical scratch removal, plus chemical activity at the glass silicon-dioxide surface that makes the polish work better than purely mechanical alternatives. That chemical-mechanical interplay is exactly why cerium oxide polishes are the go-to method in optics and vehicle glass refinishing.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePulls out scratches, water spots and wiper marks.\u003c\/strong\u003e Windscreens typically pick up fine scratch marks from wiper blades dragging sand particles along — those wiper marks show up in rain and low sun as annoying light scatter. Mineral water spots and limescale deposits on the glass hurt optical clarity and bond chemically to the surface. The GlassPolish clears both types of problem and brings back the glass's original clarity.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFor windscreen, side windows and rear screen.\u003c\/strong\u003e The cerium oxide polish suits every piece of vehicle glass: windscreen (the biggest gain in visibility), side windows (scratches from raising the glass through dirty guide channels), rear screen (wiper marks from rain off the tailgate). It also works on glass headlight lenses and plastic headlight covers — here, pair it with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e for the best results.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Before you polish the glass, clean the pane thoroughly — dirt and sand on the surface during polishing will lay down fresh scratches. Pre-clean with a microfibre cloth and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e. Lay the GlassPolish onto the damp pane with a sponge or applicator cloth and work it in with circular motions — a slightly damp surface spreads the cerium oxide more evenly than dry glass does. For stubborn wiper marks, work with a polishing machine and a foam pad — polishing by hand is plenty for light spots and water marks, but for deeper scratches a machine gives you a hand. After polishing, rinse the area with clean water and buff it off with a clean microfibre cloth — the result shows up straight away in how clear the glass reads.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCerium oxide technology: how the glass polish regenerates glass surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCerium oxide (CeO₂) is a rare-earth metal oxide that has been used in glass optics and glass processing as an abrasive and polishing agent for precision glass for decades. What makes it so well suited to glass comes down to a chemical-mechanical dual action: on one hand, cerium oxide has a specific hardness (Mohs scale ~6) that is ideal for glass (Mohs ~5–6) — hard enough for abrasion, but not so hard that it lays down fresh deep scratches. On the other, cerium oxide reacts chemically with the silicon dioxide of the glass surface and forms temporary cerium-silicate compounds during polishing that boost the polishing effect on a molecular level.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThat dual action explains why cerium oxide polishes treat glass surfaces far more effectively than purely mechanical abrasives: the chemical activity etches the silicon-dioxide surface of the glass on a microscopic level, which together with the mechanical abrasion creates a \"reflow\" effect — tiny scratches aren't just sanded away, the glass matrix flows slightly and fills the finest cracks. That's why, after a cerium oxide polish, scratches look gone that were really only \"rounded off\" or filled in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e uses this principle in a formulation tuned for vehicle work: the cerium oxide particles are suspended in a suitable carrier liquid that ensures even spread and enough lubrication. That keeps excess friction heat down during polishing and protects the pane from uneven removal. At the same time, the formula is built so it rinses off residue-free after polishing — no whitish cerium oxide film stays on the pane that could hurt optical clarity once you're done.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the glass polish the right way — from prep to result\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWorking with the glass polish follows a clear workflow that breaks down into prep, polishing and finishing. Prep matters especially with glass polishing: any speck of dirt on the pane that gets between the applicator and the glass during polishing makes fresh scratches — a mistake that gives you exactly the opposite of what you wanted. Wash the pane thoroughly with glass cleaner, rinse with clean water and dry with a clean microfibre cloth. Mask off the edge seals and paint around the pane with masking tape — cerium oxide on paint leaves streaks that are hard to get off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolishing by hand: put GlassPolish on a sponge or applicator cloth, lay it onto the damp glass and work it in with circular motions. Medium pressure, even movement — don't let it dry, top up with a damp cloth or a little water if you need to. The visible sign it's working: the abrasive film clears up as you go and runs less — that tells you the cerium oxide particles are working the surface. After 3–5 minutes of polishing, take the product off with a damp microfibre cloth and check the result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePolishing by machine: for more stubborn wiper marks or deeper scratches, reach for a polishing machine with a foam pad. Low speed (setting 2–3), light pressure — glass is more sensitive than paint and reacts faster to excess friction heat. Work in sections (max. 30×30 cm), don't dwell too long on one spot. After each pass, check the result in the light — look through the pane against the light to spot any leftover scratches and streaks. Depending on how deep the scratches run, a second pass may be needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlass polish use cases — typical glass problems and how to fix them\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e tackles a range of typical glass problems that show up on vehicles in everyday use. Wiper marks are the most common job: wiper blades dragging sand particles along make fine scratch marks in the windscreen glass — you'll spot them as light scatter in rain and low sun. These scratches are usually very fine and respond well to one or two passes of the cerium oxide polish. One thing to watch: after the glass polish, check the wiper rubber for damage and replace it if needed, since old wiper rubbers will just start the wiper-marking all over again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStubborn water spots and limescale deposits on the glass are the second most common job. Limescale from hard water that has dried onto the pane can first be loosened chemically with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-waterspot-remover-wasserfleckenentferner-kalkentferner\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/a\u003e — in stubborn cases, where the limescale has already attacked the glass surface, the GlassPolish follows as the mechanical step to polish out the remaining haze in the glass. This combined approach (chemical first, then mechanical) is far more effective on heavy limescale damage than mechanical polishing alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOxidation film on glass (a yellowish or dull layer that absorbs light) builds up from UV exposure and chemical reactions on the glass surface — especially on vehicles that sit in the sun for long stretches or run in industrial settings. Normal glass cleaners won't shift this film, but it responds well to the cerium oxide polish. After treatment, the glass reads noticeably clearer and scatters far less light in low sun and at night — a direct safety gain for the driver.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlassPolish compared — when chemical, when mechanical, when both?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn glass refinishing there are different product strategies you should pick by problem type and intensity. Purely chemical approaches (like the SONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover) are ideal for mineral deposits and light limescale, without removing any of the glass surface mechanically — that method is fast and risk-free, but it does nothing against mechanical scratches. The GlassPolish, as a chemical-mechanical product, is the right call when there are scratches or streaks alongside the spots that need mechanical work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst wet-sanding paper (e.g. P2000 or P3000 wet polish for glass), the GlassPolish has a clear edge: the cerium oxide formula is less aggressive and leaves a finer surface after treatment that doesn't need a follow-up fine polish. Wet-sanding paper removes deeper scratches more efficiently, but leaves sanding marks that then have to be levelled out with a cerium oxide polish. For typical vehicle glass problems (wiper marks, limescale, light oxidation) the GlassPolish is the most direct and gentlest solution — without needing a multi-step sanding process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a finishing step after the glass polish, a glass sealant is worth it — it protects the polished surface and adds water repellency through a lotus effect — the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-glass-scheibenversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" Glass\u003c\/a\u003e gives you long-term protection here, and the hydrophobic properties improve wiper performance and visibility in rain while cutting future water spots right down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish — sizes and use in a professional workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml (single bottle) and as a 2x 250 ml set. The 250 ml bottle goes a long way over many glass-polishing jobs when used properly — cerium oxide polishes go on in fairly small amounts, since too much product on the pane just makes more work taking it off without improving the polishing effect. For detailing shops that regularly run vehicles with glass refinishing in the programme, the 2-pack is the more economical pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe glass polish also suits use on glass headlight lenses made of glass (not for plastic headlights — use the dedicated \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e there). On glass domes, clear glass covers and optical glass components, the cerium oxide polish works too — but always go careful on already-coated or treated glass surfaces, which the abrasion could damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the GlassPolish is the must-have tool for anyone after clear, scratch-free vehicle glass as part of a professional refinishing standard. The chemical-mechanical cerium oxide technology delivers results no other product type gets this efficiently — and the direct effect on driving safety through better visibility makes glass polishing one of the refinishing steps with the highest practical payoff for the vehicle owner.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53521078616399,"sku":"D1-SNX-2731410","price":24.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521078649167,"sku":"D1-SNX-2731410_2","price":48.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521078681935,"sku":"D1-SNX-2731410_3","price":73.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur_250ml.png?v=1730653450"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-waterspot-remover-wasserfleckenentferner-kalkentferner","title":"PROFILINE Waterspot Remover Water Spots \u0026 Limescale Remover","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove limescale and water spots safely — with the SONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover do? This dedicated limescale and water spot remover dissolves mineral deposits chemically off paint, glass and chrome — no sanding, no scratches, no paint damage.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLimescale spots on the paint are a classic headache in hard-water areas, or on cars that run through automatic car washes a lot — the lime in the wash water dries on the surface and clings hard. Rainwater leaves its own mark too: once it dries, you get those tell-tale spots of lime and trapped minerals that no regular cleaner or shampoo will shift. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/strong\u003e is the targeted chemical answer to that: a purpose-built acidic solution that dissolves mineral lime and water spots on paint, glass and chrome, with no rubbing and no risk of scratching delicate surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eChemically dissolves lime and water spots without sanding.\u003c\/strong\u003e Limescale is alkaline — an acidic cleaner reacts with the deposits and breaks them down chemically, so you don't have to grind or polish them off by hand. That matters most on soft paint and coated surfaces, where rubbing can leave scratches or change the gloss. The Waterspot Remover does the work purely chemically, which keeps the paint surface safe.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUse it on paint, glass, chrome and stainless steel.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula is tuned to work safely on these common vehicle surfaces. It really shows its strength on windscreens and rear windows — stubborn mineral spots on glass that mess with your view come off safely and fast. Not for matte paint, very delicate special finishes or aluminium without testing first.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHighly concentrated formula with a tight working window.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Waterspot Remover is concentrated, so it needs precise dwell time — too short and you leave spots behind, too long on soft paint is a no-go. With the right timing and dilution you get the best results without putting the surface at risk.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always test the Waterspot Remover on a small spot before you go over the whole panel — especially on freshly painted or ceramic-coated cars. Lay the product on with a soft microfibre cloth or sponge, let it work for 1–2 minutes max, then rinse thoroughly with water. Don't use it in direct sun or on hot panels — heat speeds the reaction up and ups the risk to the paint. After you're done, rinse the treated area well and wash it with a pH-neutral shampoo to pull off every last residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRemoving water spots and lime chemically — how the Waterspot Remover works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWater spots form when water evaporates off the surface and the minerals dissolved in it — mainly calcium carbonate (lime) and magnesium salts — are left behind as residue. These deposits are physically bonded to the surface: lime has a crystalline structure that anchors into the micro-pores and tiny irregularities, and mechanically you can only get it off by sanding or hard rubbing — both a risk to the surface. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/strong\u003e dodges that dilemma with an acidic formulation that turns calcium carbonate into water-soluble calcium ions (an acid-base reaction) and so dissolves the crystalline structure without any physical force.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe acid strength of the Waterspot Remover is dialled in to be strong enough to dissolve typical lime spots within a short dwell time, but mild enough to leave no lasting change on common vehicle paint, glass and chrome. Even so: acidic cleaners need more care than neutral products. Paint with a thin clearcoat layer, freshly applied sealants (ceramic coatings especially) or cars with special finishes should be tested on a hidden spot before you go over the whole thing. If in doubt, a quick message to us beats the risk of a ruined panel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe water spot remover is at its best on highly mineralised water, which dominates in many German regions (Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg, parts of North Rhine-Westphalia). Cars washed regularly in areas with total water hardness above 20 °dH pick up visible lime spots fast once they dry — and here a dedicated water spot remover is a must-have tool in the care line-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the water spot remover properly — the correct workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/strong\u003e takes careful prep and exact timing. Wash and dry the car with a normal shampoo first — dirt and road film should be gone before the water spot remover goes on. Park the dry car in the shade — warmth speeds up the acidic reaction and shortens the safe dwell window. In summer or under midday sun it's riskier than early morning or in the garage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLay the product onto the affected area with a soft microfibre cloth or sponge — don't spray it over a wide area, just target it where the water spots are. Stick to a dwell time of 1–2 minutes: in many cases a visible sign that the water spot remover is working is light foaming or a lightening of the spots. After the dwell time, rinse thoroughly with plenty of water — no wiping with a dry cloth over the still-wet, acidic surface. Then follow up with a pH-neutral shampoo or rinse to neutralise any leftover acidic residue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn glass (windscreen, rear window, side windows) you can run the dwell time a touch longer than on paint — glass is more tolerant of acidic cleaners. On heavily limed glass a second pass or a slightly longer dwell may be needed. Once the water spots are off the glass, a follow-up glass-cleaning step with a dedicated glass cleaner gives you a streak-free finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWater spots on paint and glass — typical situations and damage patterns\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDay-to-day we see water spots in different grades that need handling with different intensity. Light water spots form after rainwater or wash water dries on freshly waxed paint — visible as white or matte streaks that catch the eye at a low light angle. These often come off with a normal glass cleaner or an acidic wheel cleaner, no dedicated water spot remover needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMedium water spots form when limey water dries several times over and mineral layers build up — you spot them as clearly round, whitish rings on the paint that won't budge with normal shampoos. This is where the dedicated Waterspot Remover is the right call. Heavy, deeply baked-in water spots form when lime sits untreated on the surface for a long time and the minerals etch into the clearcoat — you can tell because after you chemically remove the lime, the spot is still visible as a matte patch. In that case a light polish after the chemical step is needed to even out the surface changes the lime caused.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCars with dark or black paint are especially prone to heavy water spots — on those colours water spots and drying rings show up most, and look spectacular at a low light angle. Cars left to dry in the sun pick up stubborn spots faster than ones that dry in the shade — the heat speeds up evaporation and lets the lime crystallise quicker. If you always dry your car in the shade after washing, or pat it down with a drying towel, you cut water spot formation right down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWaterspot Remover comparison — when you actually need the dedicated water spot remover\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot every lime spot needs a dedicated water spot remover. Fresh, light lime spots often still come off with a mild glass cleaner or an acidic wheel cleaner, no special product needed. When lime spots stay stubborn — they don't react to normal cleaner, they're clearly visible when you look across the paint at an angle, or mineral deposits get in the way of your view — a dedicated water spot remover like the PROFILINE Waterspot Remover is the most efficient fix. A simple test: run a fingernail gently over the spot — if you can feel it raised or it leaves a rough texture, you're dealing with mineral deposits that only come off chemically or mechanically.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with mechanical methods (polishing with a fine abrasive), the chemical route has clear upsides: no risk of holograms or swirl marks, no removal of clearcoat or ceramic coating, no faff with a polisher. The chemical route is also faster on time — a few minutes of dwell instead of long polishing with machine, pads and compound. The downside: very deep, baked-in lime spots (where the lime has already chemically attacked the clearcoat and left micro-scratches) often can't be fully resolved by chemistry alone — here a light polish after the water spot removal may still be needed to even out the remaining structural changes in the clearcoat. In that case a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e works as a mild finishing step after the chemical removal step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor regular prevention against water spots after a detail, putting a wet-look sealant or a quick detailer on after the wash makes sense — a good sealant lets water bead off and cuts the drying residue right down. That makes the Waterspot Remover needed less often and keeps the car's condition longer. If you often wash in the midday sun in summer, or don't dry the car after washing, you'll be reaching for the water spot remover again sooner or later despite the sealant — which is why the way water sits on the car is the deciding factor, not just the sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover — who it's for and what we recommend\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Waterspot Remover\u003c\/strong\u003e is a must-have for any detailer and car owner living in hard-water areas, or running cars that often meet mineral water through automatic washes or rain. The 1-litre bottle is concentrated and goes a long way — enough for plenty of treatments on one car or several. As an instant fix for stubborn lime spots, the Waterspot Remover is the most efficient option, and it needs no special kit (polisher, pads). For anyone new to pro car care, the product is easy to handle thanks to its clear instructions — as long as you keep to the dwell time and stay off hot surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailing businesses that regularly work cars with water spot problems, the 1-litre size is ideal. The concentrated formula gives a far better cost-per-use than smaller consumer sizes. As a companion product for a complete detailing kit, after the water spot removal we recommend a glass cleaner for the windows (\u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e) and a final sealant that slows future spotting. If you've got water spots on the glass and you can also see scratches that go beyond a plain water spot removal, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/a\u003e is the right companion for glass polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the PROFILINE Waterspot Remover is the right tool whenever you want water and lime spots gone chemically, with no mechanical stress — on paint, glass or chrome. Respect the dwell time, stay off hot surfaces and rinse thoroughly afterwards, and you'll get consistently good results while keeping the surface as safe as possible. For cars in hard-water regions, the Waterspot Remover isn't a special-case product — it's a fixed, must-have part of the care line-up.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53521158570319,"sku":"D1-SNX-2753000","price":20.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53521158603087,"sku":"D1-SNX-2753000_2","price":40.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53521158635855,"sku":"D1-SNX-2753000_3","price":61.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-waterspot-remover-wasserfleckenentferner-kalkentferner_1-liter.png?v=1730654311"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur","title":"PROFILINE HeadlightPolish Headlight Polish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRestore yellowed headlights and bring them back clear — SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish do? This dedicated headlight polish strips UV-driven yellowing, oxidation layers and fine scratches off polycarbonate headlights — and brings back the original clarity and light transmission like a pro.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYellowed and oxidised headlights are one of the most common cosmetic issues on cars five years and older: UV light slowly breaks down the outer protective layer of the polycarbonate headlights, the surface oxidises and yellows, and light transmission drops measurably. That doesn't just hurt the look of the car — it hurts road safety too, because clouded headlights cut the reach of the beam. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pro headlight polish for mechanically reconditioning these headlight surfaces: abrasive enough to pull off yellowing and oxidation, fine enough to leave a clear, scratch-free finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStrips yellowing and UV oxidation off polycarbonate surfaces.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polycarbonate, the material modern car headlights are made of, is light and impact-resistant but UV-sensitive: without an intact UV protective layer the surface oxidises into a yellowy, cloudy, matte film that scatters light instead of letting it through. The HeadlightPolish pulls that oxidation layer off with fine abrasive polishing and exposes the clear polycarbonate underneath — the result is a headlight that looks and works like new.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFine abrasion for clear, transparent results without scratches.\u003c\/strong\u003e Polycarbonate headlights are softer than car paint and react to overly coarse abrasion with new scratches that hurt clarity just as much. The HeadlightPolish is dialled in for the specific demands of headlight reconditioning: fine abrasive particles that take off the yellowing and light scratches without cutting new, deep marks that you'd have to polish out again.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks by hand or by machine.\u003c\/strong\u003e The HeadlightPolish formula is built to run both on a polisher (dual-action or rotary with a small pad) and by hand with an applicator. By hand you can work small headlights, headlights with tricky geometry and on-the-spot touch-ups well — for bigger or heavily oxidised headlights the machine is more efficient and gives a more even result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e On heavily yellowed headlights a multi-step job is the way to go: first wet-sand the worst of the oxidised crud with fine sandpaper (P1000–P2000) to take the oxidised layer off evenly, then polish it out with the HeadlightPolish to remove the sanding marks and bring up the gloss. For that full process the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-scheinwerferaufbereitungsset-aufbereitungsset\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Headlight Reconditioning Set\u003c\/a\u003e is the way to go — it packs all the materials you need including the sandpapers. After polishing, always lay down a UV protective sealant — without protection the headlights yellow again within 6–18 months. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-headlightcoating-scheinwerferversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightCoating \"CC\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the ceramic sealant for lasting UV protection after the polish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePolycarbonate chemistry — how the HeadlightPolish removes headlight yellowing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe way the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e works comes down to mechanical micro-abrasion that takes the oxidised, yellowed polycarbonate surface off layer by layer. Chemically, the oxidation layer on yellowed headlights is a photodegradation layer — UV light breaks the polymer chain bonds in the polycarbonate and forms carbonyl groups, which cause the yellow discolouration. That layer sits on the top micrometres of the polycarbonate and can be cut off by abrasion without touching the material underneath.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive particles in the HeadlightPolish are tuned for polycarbonate surfaces: polycarbonate is noticeably softer than tempered glass or car paint and reacts faster to abrasion. Particles that are too coarse would cut deep marks into the clear material that hurt light transmission just as much as the original yellowing. The HeadlightPolish uses finely ground abrasive particles that take the layer off in a controlled way and leave a polished, clear surface. The result depends on how far the yellowing and oxidation have gone: lightly yellowed headlights come fully clear with a single polish, heavily yellowed or deeply eroded headlights need several passes or a wet-sanding step first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn important point in headlight reconditioning is understanding the layer structure: new headlights have a factory-applied UV protective layer (hardcoating) that shields the polycarbonate from UV light. Over time that protective layer breaks down, and the unprotected polycarbonate starts to oxidise. The HeadlightPolish removes the oxidation layer, but not the underlying problem: the freshly polished polycarbonate has no UV protection after the polish, and without a new protective layer it will yellow again. That's why the combo of HeadlightPolish (the polish) and a UV-resistant sealant is the complete reconditioning concept for headlights that stay clear.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe clarity and light transmission of a freshly reconditioned headlight can make the difference in TÜV-relevant terms: headlights that have lost more than 50% of their light transmission to extreme yellowing can be flagged as defects at a roadworthiness inspection. A professional headlight reconditioning doesn't just bring back the look — it also has practical relevance for vehicle safety and registration.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the HeadlightPolish right — hand polishing and machine work\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the headlight polish starts with prep: wash and dry the headlight thoroughly to get rid of grit and coarse dirt particles that would scratch during polishing. Mask off the adjacent paint with painter's tape, since the HeadlightPolish abrades clear coat too — and that's a pain to fix afterwards. Check the headlight for scratches and how deep any cracks run: surface scratches polish out, but deep cracks or internal headlight damage can't be fixed by polishing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBy hand: lay the HeadlightPolish onto an applicator or a soft microfibre cloth. Work even circular motions with medium pressure across the whole headlight face — dwell time matters less here than the mechanical action from pressure and movement. By hand you'll need several passes to get the same result you'd get from one machine pass. The hand method works especially well on smaller headlights or for spot work (single blemishes or local oxidation patches) where a machine is less precise.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBy machine: run a small pad (65–80 mm) on a dual-action or rotary polisher (speed 3–4) with even, light pressure across the headlight face. The curved geometry of most headlights calls for a flexible pad that follows the shape, and controlled pad guidance to avoid uneven edge pressure. After the machine pass, buff off with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result in raking light for any leftover sanding marks or haze. Do a second pass if needed, especially on heavily yellowed headlights.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the HeadlightPolish earns its keep — when headlight reconditioning makes sense\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA professional headlight reconditioning with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e pays off in plenty of situations. The most common case is sprucing up the look of cars five years and older that have lost their appeal to UV yellowing. In the used-car trade, headlight reconditioning is one of the most cost-effective upgrades going: a professional job takes 20–30 minutes per car, uses little material and lifts the look of the car a lot — an effort that pays for itself fast in the asking price.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs part of a full detail, headlight reconditioning is a quality signal: a car with clear, freshly reconditioned headlights next to high-gloss paint reads as overall coherence and craftsmanship. Plenty of customers value it when a detailer looks after this detail too, and take it as a marker for the quality of the whole job. Offering headlight reconditioning as an add-on service is, for that reason, a worthwhile addition to a detailer's line-up.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn fleet and commercial vehicles, headlight reconditioning matters for safety: van fleets that run a lot at night or in poor visibility benefit from maximum headlight brightness. Regular headlight care as part of a fleet maintenance plan extends the service life of the headlights and pushes back the point where a costly headlight replacement becomes necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe HeadlightPolish in the product system — polish, sealant and reconditioning set\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX PROFILINE headlight care range, several products work together into a complete reconditioning concept. The HeadlightPolish handles the mechanical correction work — it pulls off the oxidation layer and brings the headlight up to high-gloss transparency. After polishing, a protective sealant is a must to lock the result in for the long haul. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-headlightcoating-scheinwerferversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightCoating \"CC\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the ceramic UV protective sealant that shields the freshly polished polycarbonate from renewed UV degradation and stretches the durability of the result out to several years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that want to offer headlight reconditioning as a full service, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-scheinwerferaufbereitungsset-aufbereitungsset\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Headlight Reconditioning Set\u003c\/a\u003e is a handy all-in-one: it holds all the materials for the full process — sandpapers for the pre-step on heavily yellowed headlights, the HeadlightPolish for the polishing phase, and the HeadlightCoating for the final UV protection. For shops bringing this service in fresh, the set shortens the learning curve and takes the guesswork out of picking materials.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with third-party headlight cleaning products, the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish brings the advantage of a matched product system: the polish formula is built so that the polycarbonate ends up with an optimal surface for the HeadlightCoating after reconditioning — no residue, no incompatibility with the sealant polymer. In-system compatibility matters especially with headlights, since poor or insufficient bonding of the protective layer leads to quick flaking and so to a short-term win with no lasting effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish — sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 250 ml as well as a 2-pack and a 3-pack. The 250 ml size is the right one for one-off and occasional users: a pair of headlights typically takes 10–20 ml, so the 250 ml bottle is good for 12–25 full headlight jobs. For detailing shops running several cars a week, the 3-pack is the most economical option and keeps you stocked for longer without frequent reorders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe HeadlightPolish is well worth keeping as a fixed part of the service line-up for any shop that offers detailing across the board. Headlight reconditioning is a service plenty of customers actively ask for, and one that delivers a measurable value bump to the car — both in looks and in function. The combo of HeadlightPolish and HeadlightCoating as a complete headlight service is an attractive add-on that lifts the margin per detail without much extra work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the SONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish is the right product for anyone who wants to recondition yellowed and oxidised headlights like a pro. This professional headlight polish from the PROFILINE range is dialled in for polycarbonate surfaces, delivers clear and transparent results, and is the first step of a complete headlight reconditioning process that's finished off with the HeadlightCoating.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53521230889295,"sku":"D1-SNX-2761410","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521230922063,"sku":"D1-SNX-2761410_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml Set","offer_id":53521230954831,"sku":"D1-SNX-2761410_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur_250ml.png?v=1730655082"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-leatherprotection-lederpflege","title":"PROFILINE LeatherProtection Leather Conditioner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eFeed, protect and keep leather alive for years — with SONAX PROFILINE LeatherProtection\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX PROFILINE LeatherProtection do? This professional leather conditioner feeds and protects every smooth leather surface inside the car — seats, steering wheel, door cards — and keeps the leather supple for years, so it doesn't dry out and crack.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithout regular care, even high-grade automotive leather loses the softness and suppleness that make it feel special. Dry, brittle leather cracks fast, goes dull and is almost impossible to bring back — and that's doubly true for cars that sit in direct sun or take a beating from dry cabin air during the heating season. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherProtection\u003c\/strong\u003e steps in exactly there: as a professional leather conditioner it loads the leather with nourishing actives that condition the structure from the inside, and at the same time lays down a fine protective film on the surface that keeps dirt, moisture and UV at bay.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeds and conditions every smooth leather surface.\u003c\/strong\u003e The care formula works into the leather structure and replaces the moisture and oils that daily use, heat and UV light pull out of it. You can see the result: the leather looks fuller, softer and keeps its natural grain instead of turning dry and hard. On cars that get parked in the sun a lot, regular leather care isn't a luxury — it's keeping the substance alive.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eA protective membrane against dirt, moisture and UV.\u003c\/strong\u003e Once it's worked in, LeatherProtection leaves a thin, barely noticeable protective layer on the surface that slows dirt and liquids from soaking in — which makes the next clean far easier. At the same time the UV protection cuts the fading on coloured leathers, a common headache on cars with light or coloured interiors that fade badly within a few years if left unprotected.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProtects with no greasy shine and no lightening effect.\u003c\/strong\u003e Plenty of leather products leave a greasy, shiny film that throws off the look and stands out on light leather. PROFILINE LeatherProtection is built to condition the leather to a satin-matte finish without shining it up or shifting the colour. The feel afterwards stays pleasant — no sticky, slippery or oily-grippy leather surface.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always clean leather before you condition it — on dirty leather the conditioner can seal the grime in and clog the pores. Use the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e as your first step, then lay the LeatherProtection on once it's dry. Apply the conditioner with a soft sponge or a lint-free cloth and work it in evenly — then let it sit for 15–20 minutes before you buff it off with a dry cloth. That gives you a full care workflow: clean → dry → condition → buff.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eLeather care for car interiors — how LeatherProtection conditions the leather\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLeather is a natural material with an open-pore structure soaked in natural oils and fats — those are what give leather its softness and flex. In daily driving the leather loses these actives non-stop: body heat, UV, dry heater air and mechanical load drive the oils out of the structure. The result is leather that gets stiffer, more brittle and more crack-prone — a process that creeps along quietly, barely visible, until the cracks finally show.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherProtection\u003c\/strong\u003e carries nourishing actives that work into the leather structure and partly replace the lost oils. The leather takes the care in, the fibres swell back up to give it volume and softness again, and the surface goes more flexible. That conditioning effect isn't just cosmetic — conditioned leather is mechanically far less prone to cracking, because the fibres can give under load (getting in, getting out, sitting) instead of snapping brittle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn top of the conditioning, LeatherProtection lays down a protective surface layer that shields the leather from further moisture loss, dirt pickup and UV. That layer is extremely thin and doesn't feel like a film once you've buffed it off — the leather keeps its natural grain and that typical leather grip, without looking synthetic or sealed. Care intervals of 3–6 months (depending on how hard the car is used and how much sun it sees) keep the leather in good shape for the long run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow to use leather conditioner properly — step by step for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherProtection\u003c\/strong\u003e follows a clear routine that breaks down into three phases: prep, conditioning and buffing. Phase 1 (prep): the leather has to be clean and dry before you condition it. Get dust, dirt particles and grease residue off first with a leather cleaner — the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is the ideal pre-clean, opening the pores and prepping the leather for the care step. After cleaning, let the leather dry briefly before you put the conditioner on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePhase 2 (conditioning): put a small amount of LeatherProtection on a soft applicator sponge or a lint-free cloth and lay it on the leather evenly — gentle pressure, circular or straight strokes. You should see the leather drink the care in. Then let it sit 15–20 minutes so the actives can work into the structure — don't buff straight away, that cuts the care effect right down. On badly dried-out leather a second coat after the first pass can make sense.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePhase 3 (buffing): take a clean, dry cotton or microfibre cloth and buff off the excess until the leather looks satin-matte and feels soft. No sticky film, no shine, no colour change — those are the signs of a leather conditioner laid on right. How often you redo it depends on the load: cars that sit in the sun a lot or get used hard every day benefit from a treatment every 3 months; with moderate use, 2 cycles a year is plenty.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere leather conditioner works — which leather types LeatherProtection handles\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot all car leather is the same — depending on the vehicle class and maker, different leather types are used, and some have very different care needs. Smooth nappa leathers, the kind fitted in premium and luxury cars, take care products in well and show a clear improvement in grip and softness after treatment. Perforated leather (vented seats) needs extra care during application: too much conditioner in the perforation holes can leave stubborn residue — here a thinner amount and thorough buffing, including around the perforations, is the way to go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherProtection\u003c\/strong\u003e suits every smooth car leather: nappa, semi-aniline, aniline and standard automotive leather. It's not for suede or nubuck (alcantara) — these absorbent materials react differently to creamy care products and need dedicated suede care. If you're unsure about the leather type, check the underside of the seat or ask the carmaker. Faux leather (PU leather, vinyl) usually doesn't benefit from leather products either, since it lacks the pores for actives to get into — dedicated synthetic-leather care is the better call there.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eYou can use LeatherProtection on leather steering wheels and leather gear knobs too — here the amount is what counts: too much conditioner makes the wheel rim slippery, and that's dangerous. On steering wheels lay on only a very thin coat, buff thoroughly and let the leather fully soak it in before the car gets moved. That's the one spot where leather care really calls for caution — on seats, door cards and centre consoles, slipperiness from too much conditioner isn't a real-world problem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eLeather conditioner compared — PROFILINE LeatherProtection vs. other leather care products\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX range has several leather products for different needs. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-leather-care-foam-lederpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCareFoam\u003c\/a\u003e is a foam version of the leather care that's especially handy on seats: the foam spreads evenly across the surface and works well into seams and grooves, which pays off on heavily grained leather. LeatherProtection as a cream, on the other hand, goes further and is easier to portion thanks to its creamy consistency — which makes it the pick for full interior details and regular pro use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst XTREME-line products like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-lederpflegeschaum-lederpflege\"\u003eSONAX XTREME LederPflegeSchaum\u003c\/a\u003e, the PROFILINE LeatherProtection positions itself as a pro product for frequent users: bigger bottle (1 litre vs. 300 ml on the XTREME), higher yield per litre, and pricing that works out more economical with regular use. For detailers running multiple cars, or businesses with regular leather work, the 1-litre PROFILINE bottle is clearly the more economical choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying PROFILINE LeatherProtection — who is this leather conditioner for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherProtection\u003c\/strong\u003e is the right call for anyone who wants to keep high-grade car leather in good shape for the long run. It's a great fit for owners of high-end cars with leather interiors — sport, luxury and premium segments — who want to invest in keeping their interior's value. Professional detailers who offer leather cleaning and care as a fixed part of their service. And drivers who park in the sun a lot or use their cars hard, and therefore need more care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 1-litre bottle offers excellent value per millilitre for regular users. Used properly (thin coats), a litre of leather conditioner covers a very large number of treatments — even with heavy pro use across several cars a week, the bottle will last many months. For occasional users the 1-litre bottle is a long-term investment that stretches over years without losing its care effect — stored properly (cool, sealed) the product keeps indefinitely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor a complete leather care programme we'd pair the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e (cleaning) with SONAX PROFILINE LeatherProtection (care) — that covers the leather from the clean right through to the protective conditioning in one system that's built to work together. Both products are formulated so the cleaner opens the pores and the conditioner gets taken in optimally — something you can't always count on when you mix products from different brands. After a detail, check the leather once a year for the first signs of cracking — micro-cracks caught early can still be stabilised with regular care; deep, drawn-out cracks need professional leather restoration that goes beyond normal care products.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53521525211471,"sku":"D1-SNX-2823000","price":33.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53521525244239,"sku":"D1-SNX-2823000_2","price":66.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53521525277007,"sku":"D1-SNX-2823000_3","price":100.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-leatherprotection-lederpflege_1-liter.png?v=1730657470"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger","title":"PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer interior cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean sensitive interior surfaces the gentle way — SONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer do? This mild interior cleaner cleans sensitive car surfaces like displays, soft-touch plastics, Alcantara and leather with no residue and no streaks — no harsh solvents, nothing left behind.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eModern car interiors ask a lot of a cleaner: big touchscreens and display surfaces, coated soft-touch plastics, Alcantara trim and satin-matte finishes all react badly to standard interior cleaners built on alkaline or solvent-heavy formulas. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly these delicate materials — a mild, alcohol-free formula that lifts fingerprints, skin oils, dust and light grime without attacking display coatings, damaging Alcantara fibres or leaving smears on soft-touch surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eGentle cleaning for displays and touchscreens.\u003c\/strong\u003e Infotainment screens and instrument clusters in modern cars carry anti-glare coatings, an oleophobic touchscreen layer and UV-absorbing top coats. Standard cleaners with alcohol or aggressive surfactants can damage these delicate coatings, throw up smears or permanently kill the anti-reflective finish. The SensitiveSurface Detailer is formulated to pull fingerprints and greasy marks off display surfaces without touching the protective layers — you get a clear, streak-free screen with nothing left behind.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSafe on Alcantara, velour and sensitive fabrics.\u003c\/strong\u003e Alcantara is a high-performance material built on polyester microfibres, used across many premium cars for steering wheels, seats and headliners. It's moisture-sensitive and reacts to too much solvent with discolouration, shiny spots or matted fibres. The SensitiveSurface Detailer holds no free alcohol and is mild enough in its dosing to clean Alcantara without damaging the fibres or leaving drying marks — as long as you keep it sparing, the way the instructions say.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAntistatic action cuts down on fresh dust.\u003c\/strong\u003e One thing people often miss about interior cleaners is how they behave with static charge: interior plastics build up a static charge through friction and pull in dust. The SensitiveSurface Detailer carries antistatic agents that knock that charge back after cleaning — so the surface stays dust-free noticeably longer than after a standard cleaner without that extra function.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Never spray the SensitiveSurface Detailer straight onto display surfaces — the mist can creep into vents or under the display bezel and damage the electronics. Instead, spray it onto a clean, soft microfibre cloth and wipe the screen in light circular passes. For Alcantara, only dampen the cloth — don't soak it — and always work in the direction of the fibres so you don't create shiny patches. For stubborn dirt on fabric and Alcantara we'd point you to the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e for leather surfaces as a specialised follow-up. After cleaning, let it buff out briefly until the surface dries matte — that's when the antistatic film has done its job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMild cleaning chemistry — how the SensitiveSurface Detailer protects delicate surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe hard part in building an interior cleaner for sensitive surfaces is the balance between enough cleaning power and minimal load on the surface. Standard alkaline cleaners run a pH of 9–12 with strong surfactants that dissolve organic soils (fats, oils, proteins) effectively — but attack coatings, dyes and plasticisers at the same time. Solvent-based cleaners shift stubborn stains, but leave dissolution artefacts on delicate surfaces and can go after the polyester microfibres in Alcantara.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e works with a mild surfactant technology in the neutral pH range: the cleaning molecules wrap around dirt particles (finger grease, dust, light colour marks) and lift them off the substrate without chemically stressing the surface. The formula holds neither alcohol nor strongly alkaline buffers — both classes are known for attacking display coatings and greasing up matte paint finishes. Instead the detailer runs on gentle-acting surfactants picked specifically for cleaning delicate plastics and fabrics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe detailer's antistatic component is another technical detail: quaternary ammonium compounds or polymer-based antistatic additives settle after cleaning as an ultra-thin film on the cleaned surface and stop the static charge from building back up. This effect works best in dry environments (heated cabins, low humidity) and measurably extends the dust-free window after cleaning. For detailing businesses that's a commercial edge: cars stay longer in the state they were handed over in, which lifts satisfaction and cuts complaints.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SensitiveSurface Detailer's recipe is also tuned to leave no streaks or whitish residue after cleaning — the kind alkaline cleaners can leave through carbonate deposits. On glass, in dark plastic areas and on high-gloss displays a streak-free drying formula is essential — any drying with visible residue has to be reworked with an extra wipe, which costs time and loads the surface more than it needs to be.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the SensitiveSurface Detailer properly — step by step in the interior\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the interior cleaner correctly starts with prepping the surface you're about to clean. Loose dust and dry dirt should come off first with a soft brush or a microfibre duster — if those particles get dragged around by a damp cloth, they can leave fine scratches on delicate surfaces. That goes double for display surfaces, where even the finest sand can create microscopic scratches that permanently spoil the reflection on the screen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eApplication: spray the detailer onto a clean, soft microfibre cloth — not straight onto the surface. Use just enough that the cloth is lightly damp but there's no free film of liquid on it that could drip onto delicate surfaces. Wipe the surface with the damp cloth using light, even pressure — circular passes suit displays, on Alcantara and velour always work in the direction of the fibres. Shift stubborn stains with a short dwell time: lay the cloth on the spot, let it sit 15–30 seconds, then wipe. Don't scrub — the detailer loosens the dirt so you can lift it off, you don't need to force it off mechanically.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFinishing step: go over it with the dry side of the same cloth or a second dry microfibre to pull off the last traces of moisture and get an even, matte finish. On high-gloss displays this step really matters, since even slight moisture traces show up as streaks in raking light. The detailer's antistatic finish is active once it's dry — no extra treatment needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor professional use we'd work the interior in sections: displays and instruments first, then centre console and door cards, then seats and fabrics — clean to dirty, top to bottom, so no dirt particles get carried from areas you've already done onto cleaned surfaces. That order is a pro standard that lifts cleaning quality and cuts the total working time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the SensitiveSurface Detailer earns its keep — which surfaces gain the most\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe interior cleaner really pays off on cars with a mix of sensitive materials, the way it's now standard in modern premium cars. Modern high-performance cars with big touchscreen integrations (current Mercedes, BMW and Audi models with integrated display bands) carry a whole range of display surfaces, all of which react badly to alcohol and alkaline cleaners. The SensitiveSurface Detailer can go on all of them — from OLED screens to capacitive touch controls — with no risk to the protective layers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlcantara surfaces are a classic use case: steering wheels with Alcantara trim, seat surfaces in Alcantara\/leather combination and Alcantara headliners are widespread in sports cars and premium cars, and a regular headache for detailers. Most all-purpose cleaners are too aggressive for Alcantara or leave drying marks — the SensitiveSurface Detailer, in its mildness, suits this material, though on heavily soiled Alcantara a specialised fabric cleaner can be more effective. For leather surfaces in the same car the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e makes a good specialised companion, built for the particular demands of aniline and natural leather.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSoft-touch plastics (STC) are another important field: many dashboards, door handles and centre consoles in modern cars carry a rubbery soft-touch coating that gives the interior a quality feel. These coatings react extremely badly to solvents (coating breaks down, goes tacky) and to silicones (softening, shine on matte areas). The SensitiveSurface Detailer holds neither silicones nor solvents in any relevant amount, which makes it a safe choice for STC surfaces. Matte films on trim strips and matte paint on interior elements also gain from the mild formula, which throws up no grease marks or shiny patches.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe SensitiveSurface Detailer in the line-up — when each interior cleaner makes sense\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE interior range has several products for different jobs. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-interior-detailer-concentrate-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Interior Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e is a concentrate for general interior cleaning — more powerful and economical on heavily soiled or robust surfaces like hard-plastic dashboards, carpets and rubber seals. For heavy grime on standard plastics the concentrate is more efficient than the SensitiveSurface Detailer, which is milder than you need for that kind of job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SensitiveSurface Detailer sits as a specialised premium product for tightly defined jobs: sensitive, high-quality interior materials that shouldn't be cleaned with standard interior cleaners. In a professional detailing business we'd therefore say keep both in use — the Interior Detailer Concentrate for base cleaning and heavy grime, the SensitiveSurface Detailer for fine work on delicate surfaces and the final detail clean before handover. Splitting the interior cleaning workflow in two like this is a pro standard that lifts both efficiency and quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst all-purpose cleaners from the household aisle or non-specialised car care products, the decisive edge of the SensitiveSurface Detailer lies in its targeted formulation for car interiors: display coatings in a car differ from household screens, Alcantara fibres react differently to home fabrics, and soft-touch plastics in cars have different chemical make-ups than household items. A cleaner built for car interiors accounts for these specific material compositions — generic household alternatives mostly don't and raise the risk of surface damage. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\"\u003c\/a\u003e is another interesting alternative for businesses that value Ecocert-certified ingredients.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer — pack sizes and recommendation\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in 1 litre plus a 2-pack and a 3-pack. The 1-litre bottle is a ready-to-use spray built for direct use — no dilution, no pre-mixing, which makes it very efficient to handle in day-to-day work. Per car interior at normal soiling you'll typically need 20–40 ml, so the 1-litre pack is good for 25–50 full interior cleans. The 3-pack is the most economical option for businesses that regularly detail premium cars and run the detailer as a fixed part of their interior workflow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe product especially earns its place for detailers and reconditioning businesses that regularly work on premium cars with Alcantara trim, big infotainment displays or soft-touch panels. These are often high-end cars where cleaning damage from the wrong product gets expensive fast — a specialised cleaner like the SensitiveSurface Detailer is an investment in backing up the quality guarantee you give the customer. And for the keen private owner who looks after a premium car themselves and wants to treat sensitive materials gently, the product is the safest bet next to cheap all-purpose cleaners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor a complete interior care workflow we'd suggest: SensitiveSurface Detailer for displays, Alcantara and soft-touch → LeatherCleaner for leather surfaces → Interior Detailer Concentrate for carpets and coarse plastics. This three-stage approach makes sure every surface category gets treated with the product best suited to it, which maximises the cleaning results and minimises the risk of material damage — the mark of a truly professional interior detail.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":53521766547791,"sku":"D1-SNX-2863000","price":23.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53521766580559,"sku":"D1-SNX-2863000_2","price":46.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53521766613327,"sku":"D1-SNX-2863000_3","price":70.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger_1-liter.png?v=1730659049"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger","title":"PROFILINE MultiClean \"Alkaline\" Pre-Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBreak heavy traffic film chemically — with the SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline do? The high-alkaline pre-cleaner pulls bug splatter, heavy brake-dust deposits and organic road grime off the surface during the touchless pre-wash step — before the main wash even starts.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eProper car care doesn't start with shampoo. If you want a genuinely clean wash, you set up first — with a pre-cleaner that breaks the worst of the dirt chemically, before any sponge or wash mitt ever touches the paint. That's exactly the thinking behind the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/strong\u003e: a high-alkaline pre-cleaner that loosens bug splatter, organic road film, tar particles and heavy brake-dust deposits in the pre-wash, so the contact-wash risk to your paint drops noticeably during the shampoo pass that follows. It's built for pros and for keen hobby detailers who take their wash routine seriously.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-alkaline formula for maximum dirt break-down in the pre-wash step.\u003c\/strong\u003e The MultiClean Alkaline runs at a strongly alkaline pH that attacks organic grime — bugs, pollen, bird droppings, road film and greasy deposits — on a chemical level and weakens its grip on the surface. The dirt then rinses off touchless with the pressure washer or in the shampoo pass, instead of getting dragged across the paint while you wash and risking fine scratches.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePre-wash as paint protection — not just a convenience step.\u003c\/strong\u003e Every dirt particle still sitting on the surface when you start the contact wash acts like an abrasive. The pre-cleaner in the first step cuts the amount of grime on the surface before mitt or sponge come into play — that's not optional luxury, it's real long-term paint protection, especially on dark cars where micro-scratches show up the most.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFlexible dosing — for different soiling levels and application methods.\u003c\/strong\u003e The MultiClean Alkaline comes in 1-litre and 5-litre containers and can be run at different strengths depending on how dirty the car is and how you apply it (foam cannon, spray bottle, pump sprayer). Light soiling needs a stronger dilution; on cars back from long motorway runs or in the summer bug season, you crank the concentration up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always lay the MultiClean Alkaline down on a dry, cool car — not in full sun and not on pre-wetted paint, since water thins out the working concentration. Let the cleaner dwell for 2–5 minutes without letting it dry on — in hot weather or direct sun, shorten the dwell time and keep the car damp. Then rinse thoroughly with the pressure washer before you go into the shampoo pass. For maximum bug removal, run the cleaner stronger across the front end (grille, bumper) and, if needed, work it briefly with a soft brush before you rinse.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAlkaline car pre-cleaner — how the MultiClean Alkaline works chemically\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMost of the organic dirt on a car — bug splatter, pollen, bird droppings, the fatty salts off road wear, oil film — is stable in the acidic-to-neutral pH range. A high-alkaline cleaner like the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/strong\u003e shifts the chemical balance: esters and fatty compounds in organic grime are split apart by saponification under alkaline conditions, protein structures in bug residue are denatured and dissolved. The result isn't a mechanical lift-off but a chemical destabilisation of the dirt — the bond to the paint is weakened without you having to work the surface mechanically.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing to get right: high-alkaline pre-cleaners aren't \"do-it-all\" cleaners for every situation. They're tuned for organic, alkali-soluble grime. Mineral deposits like lime spots, water spots or embedded metal rust (brake dust as iron particles) barely react to an alkaline attack — that calls for acidic specialist cleaners. The MultiClean Alkaline makes sense in a two-wash concept: alkaline pre-wash first (organic grime), then a follow-up with an iron remover or acidic cleaner (mineral deposits). Combine both steps and you clean chemically all the way, instead of just looking clean.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlso important: alkaline pre-cleaners have to be rinsed off completely before you go into the shampoo wash — residue can react with some sealants or wax layers and knock back their bond for a while. A thorough pressure rinse after the dwell time is enough to clear the cleaner off fully. On freshly sealed cars (ceramic coating, paint sealant), only use it on genuinely heavily soiled spots and keep it out of the regular weekly wash, so you don't put unnecessary strain on the protection. For the routine wash of a sealed car, reach for a mild, pH-neutral shampoo as your standard wash product instead.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing a pre-wash like a pro — the application step by step\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe best way to use the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/strong\u003e starts on a dry car. Moisture on the paint thins the cleaner straight away and cuts the working concentration before it ever had a chance to act. Recommended method: fill the cleaner neat or at a low dilution ratio (1:3 to 1:10 depending on how dirty it is) into a pump sprayer, a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-foamsprayer-schaumspruher\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FoamSprayer\u003c\/a\u003e or a foam cannon on the pressure washer, and spray it evenly across the whole car — bottom to top, so the cleaner runs down the bodywork and the lower, dirtier areas get properly wetted too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStick to the dwell time: 2–5 minutes is enough for typical road grime. Don't let it dry on — in direct sun or high temperatures, mist the car lightly in between or shorten the dwell time accordingly. After the dwell, rinse thoroughly with the pressure washer, then move into the normal shampoo wash. Alternatively, the MultiClean Alkaline can be run as a foam cleaner in the foam cannon — foam clings to the surface longer and stretches the effective dwell time with no extra effort. For really stubborn bug splatter on the front end, it pays to work a soft bug sponge or microfibre mitt over it after the pre-wash before you rinse — even that is already a lot gentler than going straight into a contact wash with no chemical pre-wash first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBug remover for pros — when the alkaline pre-cleaner really shines\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe MultiClean Alkaline shows its strengths above all in the summer season, when bugs turn into a real cleaning problem. Bug residue is made of proteins, acids (formic acid, acetic acid) and fatty substances — a chemically complex mix that \"bakes\" into the paint the moment it sits for more than a few hours. Those acids in particular can damage paint if bugs aren't removed promptly in hot weather. The high-alkaline formula neutralises those acids and breaks down the protein structures at the same time — which makes the pre-cleaner an effective tool against bugs that cuts the mechanical load during the wash down to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA simple rule of thumb applies: the fresher the bug residue, the less dwell time the cleaner needs. Fresh splatter dissolves almost completely within 2–3 minutes of dwell time and then rinses off touchless. With older, dried-on residue — what you see day-to-day on cars left unwashed for several days after a motorway run — a second pass or a quick mechanical follow-up with a soft bug sponge may be needed. That's not a weakness of the cleaner, it's chemical reality: proteins that have been \"baked\" by heat and UV over days need more time or mechanical help to dissolve fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBeyond the car body, it's especially worthwhile on motorhomes, vans and commercial vehicles: thanks to their size and mileage, these often carry many times the dirt load of a normal car, and the option of a touchless pre-wash saves a lot of time and effort here. Professional detailing operations run the pre-cleaner as a fixed part of their wash routine — as the first step, before pressure or foam come in. That doesn't just lift cleaning quality, it also stretches the lifespan of the wash pads and mitts, because they meet far less coarse grime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePre-cleaners compared — MultiClean Alkaline vs. MultiStar and MultiClean Acid\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE range has three cleaners that look similar at first glance but are built for different jobs. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-multistar-all-purpose-cleaner-universalreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiStar All-Purpose-Cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is the most versatile of the three: a concentrated all-rounder that, depending on dilution, works for interior, wheels, exterior surfaces and more. It's alkaline, but less strong than the MultiClean Alkaline, so it's broader in use and kinder to sensitive surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline\u003c\/strong\u003e, by contrast, is tuned for maximum alkaline cleaning power in the pre-wash — it's not meant for sensitive interior materials, but for tough paint surfaces, sills, wheel arches and front ends. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-acid-kraftreiniger-sauer\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Acid\u003c\/a\u003e is its acidic counterpart: it handles mineral deposits like lime spots, water spots and embedded grime that alkaline cleaners can't shift. In pro work the two are often run as a system: alkaline first (MultiClean Alkaline), then acidic (MultiClean Acid or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-flugrostentferner-kraftreiniger-sauer-eisenentferner\"\u003ePROFILINE FlugrostEntferner\u003c\/a\u003e) — that gives you a complete chemical clean across every type of dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE MultiClean Alkaline — sizes, concentration, uses\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe pre-cleaner is available at Detailing1 in two container sizes: 1 litre for hobby detailers and occasional users who want to experience the pro effect without laying in a big stock, plus 5 litres for regular users and detailing operations that keep the product in constant use. Both versions hold the same concentrate formula — the ideal dilution depends on the soiling level and the application method. In pro work with daily use, the 5-litre container clearly pays off, since the price per litre comes out lower and the bigger canister gives you enough volume for larger vehicles and fleets too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho gets the most out of this pre-cleaner? Professional detailers running a structured multi-step method (touchless pre-clean + foam wash + hand wash) who put paint safety first. Hobby detailers looking for an effective answer to stubborn traffic film after long runs or in bug season, without having to reach for aggressive chemistry. Owners of dark or sensitive paint, where wash marring shows up the most and the mechanical cleaning load should be kept to a minimum. And anyone who wants to dial in their wash process: pre-wash consistently and you spare the car, the wash gear, and your time in the long run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a practical workflow for your next wash: park the car in the shade, lay the MultiClean Alkaline down with a foam sprayer or foam cannon, let it dwell for 3–4 minutes, rinse thoroughly with pressure. Then apply a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-actifoam-energy-reinigungsschaum\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE ActiFoam Energy\u003c\/a\u003e as a foam wash in the second step and let it dwell, before the hand wash with mitt and pH-neutral shampoo begins. This three-stage approach (alkaline pre-wash → foam → hand wash) is the standard at professional detailing operations and makes a visible difference to surface quality over time on cars in frequent use.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57340506472783,"sku":"D1-SNX-6293000","price":9.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":53622519365967,"sku":"D1-SNX-6295000","price":32.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger_5-liter.png?v=1731053233"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-glass-detailer-concentrate-glasreinigerkonzentrat","title":"PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate Glass Cleaner Concentrate","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean glass streak-free and let your clay bar glide safely with the SONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes the SONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate special? This ammonia-free glass cleaner concentrate cleans all vehicle glass and mirror surfaces streak-free, doubles as a clay lube, and dilutes up to 1:20 — easy on the budget for a professional operation.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you detail cars day in, day out, you know the problem: supermarket glass cleaners leave streaks, flash off too fast, or just won't work as a clay lube. Pro glass work needs a concentrate that ticks several boxes at once. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/strong\u003e is ammonia-free, leaves no streaks on vehicle glass, mirrors or windscreens — and at a 1:4 dilution it doubles as clay lube for working the clay bar across paint and glass. Two jobs, one concentrate, up to four working strengths.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAmmonia-free — safe on tinted glass and coatings.\u003c\/strong\u003e Plenty of standard glass cleaners use ammonia as the solvent. Ammonia attacks tint film on side windows, can soften hydrophobic coatings and leaves unwanted residue on mirror surfaces. The Glass Detailer Concentrate skips ammonia entirely — so it's safe to use on all common vehicle glass, coated panes and side mirrors.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTwo jobs in one: glass cleaner and clay lube.\u003c\/strong\u003e Mixed 1:4, the Glass Detailer Concentrate makes an effective clay lube. Clay lube protects the paint from micro-scratches while you clay and lets the clay bar glide evenly across the surface. One concentrate for both jobs saves space on the cart and cuts costs compared to buying two specialist products.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDilutes up to 1:20 — goes a long way in the shop.\u003c\/strong\u003e Depending on how dirty the glass is and where you're using it, you can dial the concentrate to different strengths. At 1:10 to 1:20 the Glass Detailer Concentrate handles daily routine cleaning of lightly soiled glass. That makes it seriously economical: one litre of concentrate gives you up to 20 litres of ready-to-use glass cleaner.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For cleaning the inside of windscreens, bump the strength up to 1:6 — interior glass has to cut fingerprints, grease and tobacco film, which are tougher to shift than outside grime. Lay the diluted Glass Detailer down with a clean microfibre cloth, work in circles and buff off with a second, dry cloth. Don't spray straight onto hot glass in direct sun — it flashes off too fast and leaves streaks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAmmonia-free glass cleaner concentrate — formulation and how it works in detail\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eGlass Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/strong\u003e runs on a surfactant-solvent system with no ammonia. Surfactants drop the surface tension of the water so grease, finger marks and wiper haze lift evenly off the glass and get picked up by the cloth weave. The solvent blend in the concentrate also drives a fast, residue-free dry-off — the glass film flashes off before fresh streaks can form.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAmmonia shows up in a lot of household glass cleaners as a fast-evaporating solvent that reliably cuts grease and oils. The catch: ammonia attacks film and paint edges, can soften the adhesive layer of tint film and leaves a tell-tale residue on coated surfaces. In a professional detailing operation, where tinted glass and coated panes are everyday work, an ammonia-free glass cleaner isn't a nice-to-have — it's a safety requirement.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe dilution flexibility is another core feature: dilute the Glass Detailer Concentrate to 1:4 and you get a high-strength cleaner for heavily soiled glass with baked-on grime, wiper marks and antifreeze residue. At 1:10 to 1:20 you get a solution for quick routine cleaning after a wash or between detailing steps. That scalability is a real edge in day-to-day shop work over ready-mixed cleaners with one fixed strength.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn easily missed upside of the ammonia-free formula: the Glass Detailer Concentrate is odour-neutral. Conventional ammonia-based glass cleaners leave that sharp, distinctive smell in the cabin — it lingers and can leave a bad impression with the customer. An ammonia-free product sidesteps that completely — a detail that matters in professional customer work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOnce you've diluted it in a spray bottle — say with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-sprayboy-profi-spruhflasche\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Sprayboy\u003c\/a\u003e or a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-druckpumpzerstauber-fur-losemittel-spruhflasche\"\u003ePROFILINE DruckpumpZerstäuber\u003c\/a\u003e — the Glass Detailer is ready to go. The concentrate is clear and colourless and mixes with plain tap water. For hard water, dilute it with distilled water so you don't leave lime residue on the glass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing Glass Detailer Concentrate right — glass cleaning and clay lube in the workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor glass cleaning the order is simple: outside first, then inside. On the outer glass, always start at the coolest part of the car and work fast in sunlight, because the cleaner flashes off quickly in direct sun and leaves streaks. Two or three sprays per pane is plenty for normal routine cleaning. Wipe off with a clean, lint-free washable microfibre cloth and buff with a second, dry cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a clay lube at 1:4, the Glass Detailer Concentrate really earns its place: spray the area down generously and run the clay bar evenly across it. The lube stops the clay dragging dry over paint or glass — claying dry would leave micro-scratches and is counterproductive. The 1:4 dilution of the Glass Detailer gives you exactly the right slip without the excess foam that gets in the way while you clay.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eGlassCleaner concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e — also offered in the PROFILINE range — the split is clear: the GlassCleaner comes in bulk containers (10 L, 25 L, 200 L) for shops with very high glass-cleaning demand. The Glass Detailer Concentrate in 1-litre and 5-litre containers is the flexible all-rounder for a normal detailing operation that has to cover both glass cleaning and clay work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor convertible drivers and owners of cars with a lot of glass — panoramic roof, all-round-vision design — the Glass Detailer Concentrate is a particularly economical choice. Big glass areas need more cleaning volume; with a concentrate you mix up exactly what you need without wasting an expensive ready-mixed cleaner. Keep some made up in a 500 ml spray bottle and you can quickly freshen the glass after every contact with the car, without reaching for the full cleaning kit.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInterior cleaning makes different demands: fingerprints, grease marks from the sunroof frame and tobacco film are more stubborn than outside grime. Here a stronger mix (1:6 or 1:4) plus a two-step approach works best: clean first, then go back over with distilled water to pull off any surfactant residue. A streak-free interior result is easy to reproduce on that basis.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlass Detailer in the detailing workflow — use cases and limits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThere are several points in a detailing job where the Glass Detailer Concentrate fits. Before paint correction: after the initial wash and before claying, you use it as clay lube. During interior cleaning: as a glass cleaner for the windscreen, side windows, interior mirror and sunroof glass. After sealing: for a final glass freshen-up that makes sure no sealant runs are left on the glass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the winter months especially, the glass cleaner takes on extra importance. Antifreeze washer fluid leaves an oily film on glass and wiper rubber that water alone won't shift. The Glass Detailer Concentrate cuts through that film effectively without attacking the wiper rubber. The result: clear glass and wipers that wipe clean again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Glass Detailer Concentrate also works for glass cleaning on cars being prepped for a ceramic coating. Before applying a windscreen coating, the glass has to be absolutely grease- and residue-free. One pass with the Glass Detailer at a stronger strength, followed by an isopropanol wipe-down, sets up the ideal base — the Glass Detailer pulls off the organic residue, the IPA the last traces of solvent. That two-step is standard in professional coating shops.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn polycarbonate plastic glazing — as found on older convertibles, motorcycles and certain special vehicles — use the Glass Detailer with care. Plastic glazing is more sensitive to solvents than mineral glass. A test on a less visible spot confirms it's compatible before you do the whole pane.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Glass Detailer Concentrate runs out of road on heavy soiling like bug splatter, dried bird droppings and tree sap. For that kind of extreme grime you need a pre-treatment with a dedicated cleaner first; the Glass Detailer then handles the final cleaning step for a streak-free finish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical workflow for prepping glass before sealing: first, mechanical cleaning of the outer pane with the FilzPad and glass polish to remove baked-on spots and wiper marks. Then a full clean with the Glass Detailer Concentrate at 1:4. Finally an IPA wipe as the last degrease before laying down the glass sealant. In this workflow the Glass Detailer is the bridge product between mechanical polishing and chemical prep — and lays the base for a glass sealant that reaches its full service life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlass Detailer Concentrate compared — when each glass-cleaning product fits\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE glass cleaner range has two concentrates with different jobs. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eGlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e is the bulk concentrate for high vehicle throughput — available in 10 L, 25 L and 200 L — and is aimed at car washes and large detailing operations. The Glass Detailer Concentrate in 1 L and 5 L is the flexible shop concentrate for mid-size operations and specialist jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe deciding difference is the extra function: while the GlassCleaner is built purely as a glass cleaner, the Glass Detailer Concentrate also covers clay-lube duty thanks to its make-up. If you're detailing a car and have both glass cleaning and clay work planned, the Glass Detailer Concentrate gives you a single product for both jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-acrylglasreiniger-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e — developed specifically for acrylic and plastic glazing as well as Plexiglas — the Glass Detailer Concentrate is aimed at mineral vehicle glass. Both products have their niche: for cars with plastic glazing the Acryl+GlasReiniger is the safer call; for standard vehicle glass the Glass Detailer Concentrate is the more economical and flexible tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRun both the GlassCleaner and the Glass Detailer Concentrate in the shop and you've got the right product for every situation: GlassCleaner for high-volume use in the car wash or fleet service, Glass Detailer Concentrate for the detailing workflow with clay work and specialist cleaning. The two products are matched to each other and complement rather than overlap.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eReady-to-use glass cleaner from the spray-bottle aisle — the retail stuff — can't be used as clay lube, costs more per litre than the concentrate and offers no dilution flexibility. For a professional operation that watches efficiency and cost, a concentrate like the Glass Detailer Concentrate is the better solution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying Glass Detailer Concentrate — the right pack size for every need\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePicking the right pack size comes down to how much you use and how you store it. The 1-litre container gives you — at a typical working dilution of 1:10 — 10 litres of ready-to-use glass cleaner. For a shop doing 5–10 cars a day, that lasts several working days. The 5-litre container cuts the cost per litre of ready solution noticeably and suits operations with higher throughput, or anyone using the concentrate heavily as a clay lube.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 2×1-litre and 3×1-litre sets let you keep several containers in stock without the storage footprint of a big 5-litre container. If you're not sure how fast you'll get through the concentrate, start with the double set and watch your usage before stepping up to the bigger format.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAs a companion to the Glass Detailer Concentrate, the professional spray bottles from the SONAX PROFILINE range are well worth it. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-sprayboy-profi-spruhflasche\"\u003eSprayboy\u003c\/a\u003e has an adjustable spray head you can switch between a fine mist for even coverage on glass and a focused jet for spot work. Fill different bottles for different dilutions — one for glass cleaning, one for clay lube — and you streamline the workflow a lot while avoiding constant re-mixing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers who offer customers a full interior cleaning service, the Glass Detailer Concentrate is the last link in a structured cleaning chain: seats and carpets with the IntensivReinigungsBürste and interior cleaner, leather with LeatherCleaner, plastics with all-purpose cleaner — and finally all the glass with the Glass Detailer for that first clear, streak-free view. That finish isn't just about looks, it's a safety point too: clean glass with no streak film measurably improves visibility on night drives and against the light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate system is an economical, flexible foundation for glass cleaning in a professional detailing operation — from the prep phase through clay work to the final high-gloss clean of the glass after sealing. For shops building their range consistently on the SONAX PROFILINE system, this concentrate is the ideal way into an efficient, economical glass-cleaning system that grows with every further PROFILINE product and adapts to changing needs.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1 liter","offer_id":53706729685327,"sku":"D1-SNX-336300","price":15.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53706729718095,"sku":"D1-SNX-336300_2","price":30.98,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 1 Liter Set","offer_id":53706729750863,"sku":"D1-SNX-336300_3","price":46.47,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57340506440015,"sku":"D1-SNX-03365050","price":74.02,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-glass-detailer-concentrate-glasreinigerkonzentrat_1000ml-3363000.png?v=1732196440"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-plasticcare-kunststoffpflege","title":"PROFILINE PlasticCare Plastic Care","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBring plastic back to life and protect it for the long run with SONAX PROFILINE PlasticCare\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does SONAX PROFILINE PlasticCare actually do? This solvent-free plastic care revives faded colours, masks dull patches and surface scratches, and seals every plastic part inside and outside the car — engine-bay preservation right after the wash included.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFaded plastic trim, dull dashboards and engine covers gone grey are some of the most common jobs detailing businesses tackle day in, day out. What plenty of people don't realise: most silicone-based plastic dressings throw out a quick shine but pull in dust, leave a tacky surface and give you no real protection. \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PlasticCare\u003c\/strong\u003e takes a different route — a solvent-free, regenerating plastic care that revives colours, masks dull patches and scratches, and lays down a protective preservation layer on the plastic without any in-your-face high-gloss look. What you get is a subtle, natural sheen close to factory-fresh, and it sells far better to your customers than a greasy, shiny dashboard. Available in three pack sizes — 1 litre, 5 litres and 25 litres — PlasticCare covers everything from the small one-man outfit to the big detailing chain.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eColour revival with a subtle, natural sheen.\u003c\/strong\u003e Black and dark-grey plastic parts look rich and deep again after treatment, without that artificial shine. The subtle sheen SONAX is known for comes from a thin preservation layer that reflects light evenly instead of mirroring it like a silicone film. That matters most on high-end cars, where too much gloss on the dashboard reads as cheap and puts off discerning customers.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSolvent-free — safe for every type of plastic.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula won't attack painted or unpainted plastics and works across the whole interior. Unlike solvent-based alternatives, PlasticCare doesn't dry the plastic out or make it brittle. Long term that's the difference that counts: solvents lift surface grime but pull the plasticisers out of the material at the same time — the opposite of real, lasting care.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEngine-bay preservation in one step.\u003c\/strong\u003e Sprayed on straight after the engine wash, PlasticCare seals every plastic cover and cable sheath in the bay. The surfaces are protected and get a tidy, looked-after finish that makes the difference at inspections and used-car sales. No separate engine-bay product needed — PlasticCare handles that job too.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best result, fill PlasticCare into a SONAX Sprayboy and, depending on how much sheen you want, dilute it up to 1:2 with water. Less concentrate gives you a flatter, more natural look — ideal for dashboards and centre consoles, where high gloss can cause glare. For the engine bay, use PlasticCare neat, right after the engine wash and once you've blown excess water out of the recesses and off the ignition system with compressed air.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePlastic care without solvents — why that makes a difference\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe plastic-care market is a mess, and a lot of products promise more than they deliver. Most cheap interior sprays and plastic dressings are built on silicone oils and solvents. The silicone oil delivers instant shine, the solvent helps it soak in fast. The problem: silicone oils sit on the surface as a film and pull in dust like a magnet. After a few days the dressed dashboard looks dustier than before. Solvents, meanwhile, go after the plasticisers in the plastic over time — the very substances that keep it supple and colour-rich.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PlasticCare\u003c\/strong\u003e works without solvents and instead relies on a regenerating blend of active ingredients that sinks into the top layer of the plastic, brings faded pigments back to life and forms a thin protective coat. That coat isn't tacky, barely attracts dust and creates no unnatural shine. The effect lasts far longer than with silicone products, because the actives don't just sit on the surface and disappear at the next wipe — they genuinely regenerate the top layers of the material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn the daily run of a detailing business this difference shows up in two places above all. First, the treated surface stays clean much longer, because there's no silicone film binding particles. Second, PlasticCare is easy to redo — when the customer comes back weeks later, a fresh coat keys in perfectly, with no layers building up and nothing to strip off first. With silicone-based products you often have to clean the old layer off before you can dress fresh — a step that costs time and calls for solvent cleaners that, in turn, stress the plastic all over again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother plus of the solvent-free formula shows in how it handles delicate plastics: high-end cars increasingly use soft-coated interior surfaces — so-called soft-touch plastics that feel great but react extremely badly to solvents. A single contact with aggressive products can leave these surfaces permanently tacky or rub the soft-touch coating away. PlasticCare is safe on these delicate surfaces and cares for them without attacking the coating — something that matters a lot when you're detailing premium cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRestoring plastic — application inside and on exterior parts\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePlasticCare is deliberately simple to apply, so it stays fast and efficient in the day-to-day too. For the interior, fill the product into a Sprayboy, spray it onto a \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger\"\u003esoft microfibre care pad\u003c\/a\u003e and spread it evenly across the plastic. Don't spray straight onto the surface — first, you avoid overspray on glass and displays, and second, you've got better control over how much you lay down. A thin, even coat is enough; thicker layers don't give a better result, they just dry slower.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDiluting with water up to 1:2 is a handy feature plenty of products don't offer. For the dashboard and centre console we'd go with the diluted version — the result is a subtle, silky sheen that throws no glare in direct sun. On cars with big, light dashboards in particular, too much gloss can mirror in the windscreen and spoil your view. For door cards and plastic parts in the boot you can work neat, since glare doesn't matter there and the stronger colour-revival effect is exactly what you want.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOutside, PlasticCare plays to its strength on unpainted plastic parts: bumper trim, mirror caps, wheel-arch liners and side mouldings that have gone grey under UV get their dark colour back. The effect isn't permanent — after a few weeks outdoors and a handful of washes it fades — but for prepping a car before a sale or as a regular care step it's convincing. If you want more durable protection on exterior plastics, you can use PlasticCare as a base coat and then lay down \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-plastic-rubber-kunststoffversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating CC Plastic+Rubber\u003c\/a\u003e as a long-term seal on top.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that matters when you apply it: don't work on hot surfaces. PlasticCare needs a moment to dry evenly — on heated plastic the watery part flashes off too fast and you can get patchy spots. Ideally you work at room temperature or in the shade. Same goes for storage: keep it away from frost, as the water-based formula can take damage below zero. A product that's frozen through can lose its even consistency and shouldn't be used any more.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a typical car interior you need about 20 to 30 millilitres of concentrate diluted — which means a litre of PlasticCare covers around thirty to forty full interior treatments. On cars with a lot of interior plastic, like SUVs or vans, reckon on double. That mileage is one of the reasons PlasticCare works out cheaper long term than budget products, despite the higher upfront price.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eEngine-bay preservation — the underrated job\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEngine-bay preservation is an area plenty of detailers skip or cover with specialist products. PlasticCare gives you a practical edge here: it takes that job on as well, with no extra product needed. The best moment is straight after the engine wash — the bay is clean, the surfaces still slightly damp, and PlasticCare spreads especially evenly and quickly on the wet surfaces, because the water acts as a glide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe routine: first blow excess water out of the recesses, off the connectors and the ignition system with compressed air. Then spray PlasticCare neat onto the plastic covers with the Sprayboy, evenly. The preservation guards against fresh dirt, stops the heat, oil vapours and the elements from roughening and greying the plastic, and gives the bay a clean, evenly cared-for finish. When the car gets valued — used-car sale, lease return or inspection — a cared-for engine bay makes a measurable difference to the overall impression.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne from day-to-day: PlasticCare is also brilliant for campers and commercial vehicles, where the engine bay often takes far more dirt than on a car. The solvent-free formula is harmless to rubber seals and cable sheaths in the bay — both materials that solvent-based preservers can attack. On electric and hybrid vehicles the gentle formula is a plus too, since sensitive high-voltage cable sheathing and electronic connectors don't get hit with aggressive chemistry. A clean, preserved engine bay signals at the MOT and at every garage visit that the car is looked after carefully — a detail that experienced inspectors and buyers spot straight away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePlastic care compared — PlasticCare vs. XTREME plastic sealant vs. interior spray\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlongside the PROFILINE PlasticCare, the SONAX range also has the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-kunststoff-versiegelung\"\u003eXTREME Ceramic Kunststoff-Versiegelung\u003c\/a\u003e. The difference: the XTREME version is pitched as an end-user product and brings a ceramic sealing component aimed mainly at protection. PROFILINE PlasticCare, by contrast, is the choice for professional use, because it dilutes, comes in large packs (1 l, 5 l, 25 l) and covers engine-bay preservation on top of the care side. For daily use with dozens of cars a week, PlasticCare is the more economical and more versatile pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eClassic interior sprays off the DIY-store shelf aren't a serious comparison. They're built almost entirely on silicone oil, throw out an artificial high gloss that's unwanted in professional detailing, and offer no real care or regeneration. In a detailing business they've got no place near a car — they leave residues that get in the way of a later ceramic coating and have to be removed with effort. PlasticCare, on the other hand, plays nicely with all the common coating systems and forms no problematic silicone layers. That's a key point for businesses that offer ceramic coatings alongside detailing: with PlasticCare you care for the plastic without buying yourself trouble for later coating work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers after a complete care system, the combo of PlasticCare for plastic, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-gummipfleger-gummipflege-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GummiPfleger\u003c\/a\u003e for rubber and tyres, and the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-leatherprotection-lederpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherProtection\u003c\/a\u003e for leather gives you seamless cover across every interior material. Each product is specialised for its material and delivers better results than a one-size-fits-all interior product that does everything \"a bit\". If you're not ready to build out a material-specific system like that, you can start with PlasticCare alone and already make a big jump in quality over universal products — then add the other specialists step by step as demand grows and customers start to appreciate the difference.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho is SONAX PROFILINE PlasticCare for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PlasticCare is aimed at detailing businesses, car dealers and garages that care for interiors and engine bays every day. The 5-litre pack is the most economical option for high-throughput operations — and the 25-litre drum is cheaper again for big businesses or detailing chains. Being dilutable with water makes PlasticCare one of the most economical plastic-care products on the market: a litre turns into three litres of ready-to-use solution at 1:2 dilution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor used-car detailers, PlasticCare is especially valuable, because it regenerates faded plastics fast and visibly — exactly what customers clock on their first look into the interior. A freshly detailed dashboard with a natural sheen gives the impression of a well-kept car, and that, in our experience, lifts the price you can ask noticeably. Paired with a thorough interior clean — say with SONAX PROFILINE MultiStar as a pre-cleaner — PlasticCare delivers the visual finish that marks the line between \"clean\" and \"detailed\".\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAn honest note: PlasticCare is a care and preservation product, not a permanent seal. On heavily UV-exposed exterior plastics the effect fades after a few weeks and has to be redone. If you want a long-term solution for exterior plastics, use PlasticCare as the care base and set a ceramic coating over it. Inside, where UV exposure is lower, the effect lasts much longer. But for what it's built for — professional plastic care in the daily detailing run — SONAX PROFILINE PlasticCare is one of the most convincing solutions on the market: high yield, versatile, and a result you can be proud of. Interior, engine bay or exterior plastics — PlasticCare is the product that shouldn't be missing from any pro detailing kit. Once you've used it in the daily run, you'll quickly find that interior sprays and budget plastic dressings are done for — not because it's pricier, but because it simply works better and even comes out cheaper long term. The real difference shows not just in the instant result, but above all in how it lasts and how well it plays with the care steps and seals that come after.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57344841843023,"sku":"D1-SNX-2054050","price":18.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57344841875791,"sku":"D1-SNX-2055000","price":79.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":57344841908559,"sku":"D1-SNX-2057050","price":235.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-plasticcare_1000ml.png?v=1774741150"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-acrylglasreiniger-glasreiniger","title":"PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger Glass Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eClean acrylic and Plexiglas surfaces streak-free with the SONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger do? This specialist cleaner lifts fingerprints, dust and light soiling off acrylic, Plexiglas and real glass surfaces — streak-free, gentle on the material and without the residue that attacks sensitive plastic glazing.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAcrylic glass and Plexiglas are more delicate than most people think: ordinary glass cleaners often contain alcohol or ammonia, which over time leave plastic surfaces dull, brittle and cracked. If you want to clean motorhome windows, motorcycle windscreens, headlight covers or touchscreens properly, you need a product formulated specifically for these surfaces. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly that — a gentle, material-friendly formula that cleans acrylic and Plexiglas surfaces streak-free while keeping them clear for the long haul. Unlike harsh all-purpose cleaners, the PROFILINE formula respects the softer structure of plastic glazing and leaves behind neither milky smears nor material damage. That makes it an essential tool in any detailing business that looks after not just cars but also motorhomes, motorcycles or commercial vehicles with plastic glazing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStreak-free cleaning without aggressive solvents.\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula skips the ingredients that attack plastic glazing. The result: a clear view with no milky smears, even on dark or tinted acrylic panes. On motorhomes and caravans, where acrylic panes cover large areas, you notice the difference straight away. The formula leaves no film-like residue that shows up in backlight or attracts dust — a common problem with the wrong cleaners.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eVersatile — from Plexiglas to touchscreen.\u003c\/strong\u003e This cleaner isn't tied to one job: it works equally well on acrylic glass, Plexiglas, polycarbonate, real glass, mirrors and touchscreens. So you save yourself a handful of specialist products and have one cleaner for all the glass work in the shop. Day-to-day that means you reach for the same product whether you're cleaning a motorhome window, a motorcycle visor or the infotainment display.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProfessional 5-litre container for everyday use.\u003c\/strong\u003e In the PROFILINE format as a 5-litre canister, you get a product designed for commercial use in detailing businesses, motorhome workshops and detailing studios. The quantity lasts a long time even with daily use — and the price per litre stays well below that of smaller containers. For businesses turning out dozens of vehicles week after week, that's a real cost advantage.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Always spray the Acryl+GlasReiniger onto a clean, soft microfibre cloth rather than straight onto the pane — that way you avoid overdosing and stop the cleaner running into seals or gaps. On big surfaces like motorhome windows, work in lanes from top to bottom and wipe straight after with a second, dry microfibre cloth. Important: only use short-pile, soft cloths — long-pile or coarse microfibre can leave fine scratches on acrylic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAcrylic glass cleaner for sensitive plastic panes — how the formula works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe key difference between an acrylic glass cleaner and a standard glass cleaner is the chemical make-up. Standard glass cleaners rely on isopropanol or ammonia to cut through greasy films fast — on mineral glass that works perfectly. On acrylic glass (PMMA) and polycarbonate, though, these substances attack the softer plastic surface. The damage doesn't show right away; it creeps in. After weeks and months the panes turn cloudy, fine hairline cracks form, and what's known as stress cracking sets in. That's especially painful on high-quality motorhome windows or motorcycle windscreens, where a replacement quickly runs into several hundred euros. Once you've watched this slow process unfold on a customer's vehicle, you understand straight away why a dedicated acrylic glass cleaner isn't a luxury but active damage prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger sidesteps this problem with a surfactant-based formula that emulsifies dirt and fingerprints without attacking the material structure. The surfactants wrap around dirt particles and lift them off the surface, so they're picked up completely as you wipe. At the same time the formula leaves no residue that draws in fresh dirt — the pane stays clean longer than after a clean with household remedies or unsuitable products. This self-cleaning effect isn't a marketing promise but a direct result of the residue-free formula: where no sticky leftovers sit on the surface, less dust sticks too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThere's another aspect many people overlook: acrylic glass builds up static. Ordinary cleaners often make this worse, because they charge the surface as they evaporate. The Acryl+GlasReiniger works against this and cuts the static charge. In practice that means dust particles don't immediately settle back onto the freshly cleaned pane — a measurable plus, especially on touchscreens and displays inside the vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH-neutral nature of the formula matters too. Acrylic glass reacts badly to strongly acidic or strongly alkaline cleaners — either can attack the surface chemically and cause irreversible clouding. The SONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger sits in the neutral pH range and therefore suits coated acrylic panes too, the kind increasingly fitted to modern caravans and motorhomes. These coatings are meant to filter UV radiation or make the pane more scratch-resistant — an aggressive cleaner can damage them, while the PROFILINE formula respects the coating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCleaning Plexiglas — the right technique for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the Acryl+GlasReiniger is straightforward, but a few details make the difference between a good and a perfect result. The most important ground rule: never work on hot surfaces. Direct sunlight or heated-up panels make the cleaner evaporate too fast — streaks and edges follow. A shaded spot is ideal, or cleaning early in the morning while the surfaces are still cool. On motorhomes that have stood in the sun all day, it pays to cool the panes down first with cold water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the job, fill the cleaner undiluted into a pump sprayer and lay it down evenly across the surface. Then wipe over the pane in straight lanes with a clean, soft microfibre cloth — no circular motions, because on acrylic circular moves can leave fine micro-scratches that show up under certain light as swirl marks. A second dry cloth picks up the last of the moisture and gives you that streak-free finish. For more stubborn soiling on motorhome windows or a motorcycle windscreen, let the cleaner dwell for ten to fifteen seconds before you wipe — don't let it dry on, because dried cleaning residue can leave marks that are tough to remove.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a commercial setting a standardised three-step routine pays off: first, rinse off coarse soiling with plenty of clear water — that clears away grit and big particles that would otherwise scratch when you wipe later. Second, apply the SONAX Acryl+GlasReiniger and let it dwell. Third, wipe in straight lanes with a soft microfibre cloth and dry off with a second cloth. On caravan work in particular, where the panes are often large, this structured routine saves time and prevents rework. For especially stubborn insect remains or tree-sap marks on acrylic glass, you should let a separate insect remover dwell first — the Acryl+GlasReiniger is built as a cleaner for everyday soiling, not as a heavy-duty cleaner for extreme dirt.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA note on storage: the Acryl+GlasReiniger isn't frost-resistant. So keep it in a heated area during the cold season. A product that has frozen once can lose its cleaning power, because the emulsion separates and no longer sprays evenly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it shines — the jobs that bring out the acrylic glass cleaner's full strength\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common job in practice is cleaning motorhomes and caravans. Almost all motorhome windows are made of acrylic glass — they're lighter than real glass and don't break as easily, but they react badly to the wrong cleaners. If you work here regularly with the SONAX Acryl+GlasReiniger, you keep the panes clear for years and head off the dreaded yellowing. What you see day-to-day: caravans whose acrylic panes have been looked after consistently with a material-friendly cleaner score noticeably better at valuation than ones treated with household cleaners — because cloudy or scratched panes jump out at any inspection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA second important area: motorcycle windscreens and visors. These too are almost always polycarbonate or acrylic and won't take aggressive glass cleaners. Here a practical advantage of the Acryl+GlasReiniger comes into play: you can use it easily on the road too, when the windscreen is covered in insect remains after a run down a country road. A small pump sprayer with the cleaner and a soft cloth are enough to get your view back fast — without stressing the material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe third area, which often gets underrated, is touchscreens and displays — in the vehicle, on infotainment systems, sat navs or in commercial machinery. The cleaner lifts fingerprints residue-free and cuts the static charge, so fresh dust particles aren't drawn straight back. If you regularly detail vehicle interiors in a detailing business, you know the problem: fingerprints on the central display often look worse after a clean with a normal glass cleaner than before, because the cleaner leaves a smeary film. With the SONAX Acryl+GlasReiniger that doesn't happen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn real glass the cleaner works perfectly too. If you don't want to keep a separate product for every type of glass in your detailing business, you can use the Acryl+GlasReiniger as an all-in-one solution. It doesn't replace the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-glass-detailer-concentrate-glasreinigerkonzentrat\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e, but it complements it nicely: the Glass Detailer is a concentrate optimised for fast glass cleaning on real glass and can be diluted, while the Acryl+GlasReiniger goes on undiluted wherever plastic glazing is involved. In practice, plenty of businesses keep both products on the shelf — the Glass Detailer for everyday windscreen and side-window cleaning, the Acryl+GlasReiniger for special cases with sensitive surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eAcrylic glass cleaner compared — PROFILINE vs. caravan version vs. household remedies\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlongside the PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger, SONAX also offers a caravan version in a smaller container. The difference: the caravan version is aimed at end users and comes with its own spray head in a handy 750 ml bottle — ideal for the occasional clean at home or on the campsite. The PROFILINE canister with five litres, on the other hand, is meant for everyday use in the shop and is clearly cheaper per litre. The two products are comparable in formula, but the PROFILINE format is the more economical choice for detailers working through several vehicles a day. From experience, a five-litre canister lasts several weeks of heavy use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWe'd steer you well clear of household remedies like washing-up liquid water or vinegar solutions on acrylic glass. Washing-up liquid often leaves residue that shows up as a milky haze on plastic glazing. Vinegar is acidic and can attack the surface over time, especially on coated acrylic panes. Pure alcohol solutions, often passed around online as an insider tip, are no good idea either: isopropanol can soften PMMA and cause irreversible clouding. The supposed saving from household remedies quickly turns into an expensive mistake when acrylic panes have to be replaced.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnd microfibre cloths aren't all the same either — for acrylic, only soft, short-pile cloths with a low GSM are suitable. Coarse all-purpose microfibre cloths can cause fine scratches. If you work professionally with acrylic glass, keep a separate stack of soft cloths just for plastic glazing and never use them for other cleaning jobs where dirt particles could get into the weave. When in doubt: better a fresh cloth than a \"probably clean\" one — because a single grain of sand in the weave is enough for a visible scratch on the delicate acrylic surface. That sounds over-cautious, but it's the difference between a professional and an average result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho is the SONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Acryl+GlasReiniger is the right call for anyone who works regularly with plastic glazing. The 5-litre PROFILINE container is especially economical and practical for motorhome detailers cleaning acrylic panes every day. The investment pays for itself after just a few jobs compared with smaller containers. Motorcycle workshops benefit too, because the cleaner works equally well on windscreens, visors and instrument covers — one less product in the store.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailing businesses the Acryl+GlasReiniger makes sense as an add-on to the regular glass-cleaning workflow. Pairing it with the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/a\u003e covers the tough cases too: first knock out light scratches and clouding mechanically with the glass polish, then go back over it streak-free with the Acryl+GlasReiniger. On badly hazed polycarbonate headlight covers, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-headlightpolish-scheinwerferpolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HeadlightPolish\u003c\/a\u003e can go in first to grind the surface clear again — then the Acryl+GlasReiniger handles the fine clean. For interior surfaces, touchscreens and sensitive surfaces, the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e rounds out the setup.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses with a mixed customer base — car detailing, motorhome work, motorcycle care — the Acryl+GlasReiniger trims the product range in the store. Instead of keeping separate cleaners for acrylic, polycarbonate and real glass, one product covers all three materials. That simplifies training new staff and cuts the risk that an unsuitable cleaner accidentally ends up on sensitive plastic panes — a mistake that crops up in practice more often than you'd think.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorth knowing: the Acryl+GlasReiniger is a cleaner, not a sealant. It lifts dirt and brings clarity, but offers no lasting protection against UV radiation or mechanical wear. If you want to protect your acrylic panes on top, you can apply a material-friendly plastic sealant after cleaning. For the pure cleaning job — and for most people that's the main need — the SONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger delivers exactly what it promises: streak-free clarity on all common acrylic and glass surfaces, gentle on the material and with no compromise on cleaning power.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57344859832655,"sku":"D1-SNX-07385050","price":35.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-acryl-glasreiniger_5-liter.png?v=1774741500"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger","title":"PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\" interior cleaner","description":"\u003c!-- BLOCK 1: body_html --\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eEcocert-certified pro interior cleaner for every surface — SONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does Ecocert certification mean on a car cleaner? Ecocert is an independent body that tests cleaning and care products for natural ingredients and environmental compatibility. PROFILINE CleanStar carries that mark — with 99.75% naturally sourced ingredients and a pH-neutral value of 6.5-7.5.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCar interiors today are built from ever more delicate materials: Alcantara, leather, matte plastics, chrome trim and touchscreen surfaces all need cleaners that are tough on dirt but gentle on the material. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly that brief: a ready-to-use universal interior cleaner that handles every surface inside the cabin — from fabric seats through leather to glass and plastic — while leaning on an Ecocert-certified formula with 99.75% naturally sourced ingredients. Available in 5, 25 and 200 litre containers: the product for businesses that need an Ecocert-certified cleaner in large volumes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEcocert-certified — verified natural ingredients.\u003c\/strong\u003e Ecocert certification isn't a marketing claim, it's an independent check by an accredited certification body. The CleanStar \"Ecocert\" is 99.75% naturally sourced — anionic and amphoteric plant-based surfactants, no synthetic solvents. The pH window of 6.5-7.5 is gentle on every common interior surface; neither leather nor Alcantara nor glass gets attacked by this pH-neutral cleaner.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eUniversal interior cleaner for every surface — one product instead of many.\u003c\/strong\u003e The CleanStar cleans interior glass, fabric seats, leather, Alcantara, plastics (coated and uncoated), rubber and metal trim. That versatility saves you switching time and shelf space in pro work: instead of grabbing a different product for each surface, you work through the whole cabin with a single bottle. Move from delicate to robust surfaces as you go — a cloth dirty from plastic does no harm on glass, and either way it's less of an issue than with strongly abrasive cleaners.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePro container sizes from 5 to 200 litres for businesses of every size.\u003c\/strong\u003e The PROFILINE CleanStar comes in three bulk sizes: 5 litres for smaller workshops and mobile detailing, 25 litres for mid-sized operations and 200 litres for large accounts, dealership chains and fleet-care businesses. The 200 litre drum makes it a practical long-term answer for industrial interior-cleaning demand — no frequent reordering, and matching volume savings on price.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e When you work the headliner, never spray straight onto the surface — always onto the microfibre cloth. The headliner is often glued layers; a direct mist can soak in and loosen the bond. On Alcantara, run the cloth with light pressure and always in one direction (with the nap) — no circular motions that rough up the fibres. For interior glass, lay CleanStar onto a dry microfibre cloth and wipe in overlapping horizontal passes; then buff with a second dry cloth. For a full interior clean, stick to a clear workflow: ceiling → glass → dashboard → doors → seats → floor. That way no cleaned area gets dirtied again by a later step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eEcocert certification and natural ingredients — what sets the SONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\" apart from conventional cleaners\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Ecocert certification is the core difference between the CleanStar and other SONAX PROFILINE interior cleaners. Ecocert is a French certification body that has tested and certified natural and organic products to defined standards since 1991. For a cleaning product, Ecocert certification means the ingredients must come in large part from natural or naturally derived sources; synthetic solvents, petrochemical derivatives and certain preservatives are either banned or tightly limited. The CleanStar meets these requirements with a 99.75% naturally sourced content.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe surfactants in the CleanStar are plant-derived — anionic and amphoteric surfactants made from renewable raw materials (mostly coconut or palm oil derivatives). These plant-based surfactants have a cleaning profile comparable to synthetic equivalents.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother point worth flagging on the natural formula: odour emissions. Conventional interior cleaners with synthetic solvents often leave a sharp chemical smell that lingers in the cabin after cleaning and can put customers off — especially at handover. Thanks to its plant-based surfactants, the CleanStar has a much milder, fresh scent of its own that clears completely after a short airing. For dealerships and businesses that care about a pleasant smell after an interior clean, that's a noticeable difference in the customer experience.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH value of 6.5-7.5 is decisive for material compatibility. Many aggressive interior cleaners work in the alkaline range (pH 8-11), which delivers strong soil-lifting power but dries out leather, damages Alcantara and attacks coated plastics. The CleanStar, in its near-neutral pH range, is by contrast safe to use on all the materials named — it's easy on the surfaces while still cleaning normal car dirt well (dust, fingerprints, drink residue). For very heavy soiling (blood, engine oil, tar) stronger, non-Ecocert-certified cleaners are often more effective; for everyday and care work the CleanStar is positioned just right.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe preservatives in the CleanStar — 2-Bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, 1,2-Benzisothiazolin-3-one and Methylisothiazolinone — are the one point where sensitive users might prick up their ears: these preservatives can cause skin irritation in some people. But they are present in very low concentrations (well under the legally permitted maximums) and are harmless for professional use with normal hand protection. Ecocert certification does not rule out these preservatives in acceptable amounts — they're needed to keep the product stable over its shelf life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing CleanStar \"Ecocert\" — a ready-to-use cleaner for every interior surface\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe CleanStar \"Ecocert\" is ready to use — no dilution needed. That direct-use design is a clear win for pro work: no measuring, no mixing, straight from the bottle. Spray the product onto a microfibre cloth (SONAX recommends the Scheibe+Innen microfibre cloth) and apply it to the surface you're cleaning. The spray foams up moderately — no over-foaming that would be hard to pull out of upholstery.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe workflow for a full car interior: work top to bottom. Clean the headliner first with a sparing cloth application, then interior glass, dashboard and cockpit plastics, door cards, seats and finally floor mats and floor. Rinse the cloth in fresh water regularly and re-spray it with product — a heavily soiled cloth moves more dirt than it picks up. For stubborn soiling on a given spot, apply cleaner to the cloth several times and let it dwell; the key is patience, not pressure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn glass (windscreen, side windows, interior mirror) the CleanStar is especially effective against the hazy film that forms on the glass of cars with a lot of plastic off-gassing inside. This silicone-laden film from plastic out-gassing is stubborn and many universal cleaners struggle to shift it. With its amphoteric surfactants, the CleanStar cuts through the greasy film more efficiently than purely anionic cleaners. For the best glass finish, use a dry buffing cloth until no streaks are left.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor child-transport vehicles, ambulances and commercial vehicles with frequently changing passengers, the CleanStar is a particularly good fit, since the natural ingredients carry less irritation risk on accidental skin contact than synthetic cleaner alternatives. For end customers with sensitive skin, or who react to synthetic chemicals in the cabin, the Ecocert formula is a preferred choice. This product-safety angle is especially relevant for businesses maintaining care fleets for nurseries, care services or medical transport.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAlcantara calls for a special application technique: Alcantara is a microfibre synthetic fibre with a textile structure that wrong cleaning can permanently disturb (roughening, glazing). Spray the CleanStar onto the cloth (not onto the Alcantara), then wipe with light pressure in the direction of the nap (typically top to bottom on seats). No circular motions. Wipe wet-on-wet afterwards with a slightly damp, clean cloth to lift residue. Once dry, raise the Alcantara fibres with a soft clothes brush.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePro container sizes — 5, 25 and 200 litres for every operation scale\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\" comes in three container sizes cut to different operation sizes. The 5 litre can is the entry point for smaller detailing businesses, mobile detailing and well-kitted hobby detailers with high consumption: 5 litres of ready-to-use cleaner lasts, used sparingly, for 50-100 full car interior cleans. The can is handy enough to carry in the vehicle and fits most tool boxes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 25 litre size is built for mid-sized detailing businesses doing 5-20 cars a day. A 25 litre canister lasts roughly 4-6 weeks at 5 cars a day, depending on how heavy the cleaning is. The price edge over the 5 litre can is already clearly noticeable at this size — the cost per litre drops sharply, which adds up to a real saving over the year in continuous use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAt the 25 litre size it pays to top up spray bottles from a filling station or a burette dosing system rather than working straight from the canister. That saves product through precise dosing and stops spills when pouring from a big canister into narrow spray bottles. Simple dosing pumps for 5 and 25 litre canisters are cheap in the detailing accessory trade and pay for themselves quickly through product savings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 200 litre drum is aimed at large operations, dealership chains and fleet-care services with very high cleaning volume. A 200 litre drum needs a stationary tap or a dosing pump to match, available as an accessory. For businesses cleaning 20-50 cars a day, the 200 litre drum cuts reorder frequency to a few times a year and avoids the logistics costs of frequent small orders. The cost per litre on the drum is, again, far cheaper than on the smaller containers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCleanStar \"Ecocert\" compared — PROFILINE vs. consumer and vs. Interior Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe direct comparison with the consumer version, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-cleanstar-ecocert-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX CleanStar \"Ecocert\"\u003c\/a\u003e in 750 ml: the formula is identical — same Ecocert certification, same natural ingredients, same pH neutrality. The difference is purely in container size and packaging concept: the 750 ml bottle is built for the private user with 1-2 cars, the PROFILINE container for pro use with correspondingly higher consumption. If you already know and rate the consumer version, you'll find the same product in the PROFILINE version in a professional container size with cost advantages in steady use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-interior-detailer-concentrate-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Interior Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e a clear positioning gap shows up: the Interior Detailer Concentrate is a concentrate (dilutable 1:10 to 1:50), not Ecocert-certified, and in return has an antistatic working component the CleanStar doesn't have. If you value the Ecocert certification and a ready-to-use solution, you reach for the CleanStar. If you want to tune the cleaner individually to different soiling levels and rate antistatic protection as important, you pick the Interior Detailer Concentrate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e is the specialist product for the most delicate materials — Alcantara, velour, the highest-grade leather variants. Where the CleanStar covers 95% of interior cleaning jobs, the SensitiveSurface Detailer is the pick for the last 5% with especially tricky surfaces. Day-to-day, a combination works well: CleanStar for the standard interior, SensitiveSurface Detailer as a backup for special materials.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying an Ecocert-certified interior cleaner — who the SONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\" is right for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the ideal choice for professional detailing businesses that want to use certified cleaning products. Businesses with ISO 14001 certification or similar environmental-management standards can use the CleanStar as a clear product record for the use of natural ingredients in their documentation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses that document their chemical use, the Ecocert certificate provides proof. For businesses wanting to win ecological tenders (e.g. municipal fleet care or public transport operations), using Ecocert-certified products can be a provable quality marker in the bid documentation. Detailing1 can provide product data sheets and safety information for the CleanStar for tender documents on request. Another point concerns staff satisfaction: strong-smelling or skin-irritating cleaners are a burden in daily use. The CleanStar is formulated to be skin-friendly and has a neutral scent of its own that doesn't spoil the working atmosphere. That makes it especially suited to businesses cleaning many cars a day and watching the long-term health compatibility of the products they use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor dealerships and leasing companies with their own detailing department, the 25 or 200 litre container is the most economical solution: a uniform product range, plannable reorder intervals, and one cleaner that works for every car interior and every material — without special products for each segment. As a verified SONAX specialist dealer, Detailing1 carries the PROFILINE CleanStar \"Ecocert\" in all three container sizes permanently in its range.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57344938705231,"sku":"D1-SNX-2535050","price":30.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":57344938737999,"sku":"D1-SNX-2537050","price":127.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":57344938770767,"sku":"D1-SNX-2539000","price":1154.3,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-cleanstar-ecocert_5l.png?v=1774730626"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur","title":"PROFILINE FS \"05-04\" cutting compound","description":"\u003c!-- BLOCK 1: body_html --\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eUsed-car paint correction with heavy cut — SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 cutting compound\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 do? This medium-aggressive cutting compound rated 5\/4 (cut\/gloss) pulls out sanding marks down to P1500 sandpaper, normal paint weathering and light scratches — silicone-free, low-dust and with solid gloss after a single pass.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn used-car prep, efficiency is everything: one pass that both corrects and builds gloss saves time and product. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e is built exactly for that job — a medium-aggressive cutting compound with a cut grade of 5 and a solid gloss grade of 4 in the SONAX rating system. It's made for restoring normally weathered, lightly scratched paint, takes out sanding marks down to P1500 grit, and leaves a clean gloss that in many cases needs no second finishing pass. That makes the FS 05-04 a workhorse for the daily grind — especially where lots of cars need to be turned around economically and reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHeavy cut with a solid gloss build at the same time.\u003c\/strong\u003e With a cut grade of 5, the FS 05-04 sits in the upper-middle of the SONAX PROFILINE compounds — aggressive enough to reliably pull out nagging sanding marks down to P1500, oxidation layers and fine-to-medium scratches. At the same time, the gloss grade of 4 leaves a clean, even paint gloss after the work — often good enough as the final result in used-car prep. That combination cuts the total number of polishing steps you need and pushes up the profit per car.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free, low-dust and odourless — professional working properties.\u003c\/strong\u003e The silicone-free formula guards against fish-eyes in later refinish work and makes the FS 05-04 a safe pick in a body-shop setting, where cars may go on to more bodywork after polishing. The low-dust behaviour keeps the working surface clean, makes the wipe-down easier and protects both the machine and the adjacent panel areas. The odourless character improves working comfort — especially in enclosed halls or when you're working through bigger batches of cars.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eBuilt for use with variable-speed polishing machines.\u003c\/strong\u003e The FS 05-04 formula is dialled in for variable-speed rotary polishers — a machine type widely used in the pro world that delivers high cutting power and even material removal. The paste shows its best behaviour at medium-to-higher speeds: reliable cut in the first phase, a controllable break-down point, and clean gloss as you work it out. It also works on dual-action machines, though the cut sits a touch lower there because of the lower downforce and different motion.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For used-car prep with the FS 05-04 we'd run it like this for repeatable results: work it panel by panel with a medium-firm foam pad on a rotary — 900–1200 rpm for normal cutting, stepping up to 1500 rpm for stubborn sanding marks. Lay the paste down thin over roughly a 50×50 cm working area, spread it slowly first, then work it out until the paste turns clear. Always do a test patch first — especially on unknown cars with possibly repainted panels or thin clearcoat. After the FS 05-04, one pass with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e as a finishing polish is usually enough for a mirror-smooth high-gloss finish. On normally weathered paint without deep scratches, the FS 05-04 can often be run as a stand-alone solution too.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE rating system — what 05-04 means and why it's key to picking the right compound\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX rates every PROFILINE compound on one consistent two-digit system: the first number is cutting power (abrasiveness), the second is gloss ability — each on a scale from 1 (minimal) to 6 (maximal). This system lets you place a product in your polishing workflow fast and clearly, without digging through the full product description. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e stands for a mix of high cutting power (5) and good, if not maximal, gloss ability (4) — the classic profile of a compound that corrects paint defects while leaving a presentable gloss behind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn practical terms, cut grade 5 means: the abrasive particles in the FS 05-04 are big and hard enough to reliably pull out normally weathered paint (oxidation, dull spots, baked-in dirt particles) and sanding marks down to P1500 grit. P1500 is a typical grit for wet-sanding as prep before polishing — if you've got to polish out wet-sanding marks, the FS 05-04 has you covered. At the same time, cut grade 5 stays controllable — with the right machine setup and technique, the risk of burning through the clearcoat stays manageable even on thinner paint, as long as you know the material's limits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGloss grade 4 means: once the cutting compound is worked out, a clean, even gloss is left on the paint — clearly better than the untouched, oxidised starting state, but still with a faint hologram haze that shows up under direct light. That hologram haze is the typical signature of a compound, and it comes out fully with a finishing pass (say the NP 03-06 or the PerfectFinish). In used-car prep — where the end result often isn't inspected under studio lighting — gloss grade 4 is enough as the final result in many cases.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the FS 05-04 right — machine setup, foam pad and workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUsing the \u003cstrong\u003eFS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e right starts with machine choice: for the best results, a variable-speed rotary polisher is the ideal tool. Rotaries generate high surface heat through their circular spin and a controllable material removal — ideal conditions for the FS 05-04's cutting particles. Recommended speed ranges: 900–1200 rpm for normal used-car prep (oxidation, weathering, fine scratches), 1200–1500 rpm for more stubborn sanding marks after P1500 wet-sanding. Higher speeds improve cutting power but also raise the heat input — a trade-off that takes experience.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFoam pad choice: for the FS 05-04, a medium-firm foam pad (medium-cut pad) works best — soft finishing pads kill the cut too much, while very hard wool or microfibre pads push the cut up further, which can be risky on unknown paint. A proven middle ground is a yellow-orange foam pad in the medium hardness range, which gets the most out of the FS 05-04 without removing more material than you need. On dual-action machines (DA machines) you can pick a slightly harder pad to make up for the lower downforce of the DA action.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStep-by-step workflow: 1. Clean the paint (pre-foam, iron remover, tar remover), 2. Measure paint thickness (a paint depth gauge is recommended on unknown cars), 3. Work a test patch (one panel per side to dial in the machine setup), 4. Work panel by panel (roughly 40×50 cm working areas), 5. Check the result under low LED light (to make holograms show up), 6. If needed, a finishing pass with the NP 03-06 or PerfectFinish, 7. Seal the paint (polymer sealant or ceramic coating). Wipe the FS 05-04 off with a clean microfibre buffing cloth once it's worked out — don't let it dry and then scrub it hard, since dried compound residue can damage the clean finished surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eImportant note on paint temperature: the FS 05-04 should be worked on paint surfaces between 15–30 °C. Paint that's too cold (under 10 °C) stops the abrasive particles from working in evenly; paint that's too hot (direct sun, summer heat) lets the paste dry out too fast and makes working it out harder. In summer, work in the hall or in the early morning hours.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsed-car upgrading with the FS 05-04 — typical damage profiles and results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe main use case for the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e is professional used-car upgrading: cars with two to ten years of use, whose paint has lost its original gloss to UV exposure, wash-bay contact, mechanical effects and weather. Typical damage profiles where the FS 05-04 works best: oxidised, dull paint with a gloss haze; water spots that won't come off with a normal wash; fine-to-medium scratches from improper cleaning (car-wash damage, wipe marks); sanding marks after wet-sanding down to P1500 as prep for deep-scratch removal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat the FS 05-04 can't do: deep scratches that reach into the basecoat or primer can't be fully removed by polishing — polishing doesn't add material, it takes it off. If you want to remove heavy impact marks, parking dings or deep-running scratches, you've got to either prep with much coarser sandpaper (P800–P1200) and start with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e for the heavy cut, before bringing in the FS 05-04 for the fine correction. This multi-stage approach is everyday practice at the used-car dealer or in the pro detailing shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicle fleets and used-car dealers with high throughput, the FS 05-04 in the 5-litre container is especially economical: a consistent, repeatable result across many cars, combined with low paste use per panel (typically 3–5 ml for a 40×50 cm working area), makes the 5-litre container a cost-efficient tool in daily operation. On show and display cars, where the visual condition directly affects the asking price, running the FS 05-04 as a standard prep step is a sensible investment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFS 05-04 in comparison — where it sits in the SONAX PROFILINE compound range\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE compound range has a matched solution for every use case. Placing the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e in the range is directly comparable through the rating system: if you need an even more aggressive cut for deeper scratches or wet-sanding from P1000, you grab the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE UltimateCut 6+\/3\u003c\/a\u003e (cut grade 6+, gloss grade 3) — the highest abrasiveness in the range, but lower gloss ability that always needs a finishing pass. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-cutmax-schleif-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CutMax 6\/4\u003c\/a\u003e sits with cut grade 6 and gloss grade 4 between the UltimateCut and the FS 05-04 — also for aggressive corrections, but with a touch better gloss than the UltimateCut.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe FS 05-04 at 5\/4 is the compromise product for the typical prep job — cut high enough for most used-car damage profiles, gloss good enough to skip a finishing pass in many cases. For people who want even better gloss alongside a solid cut, the PROFILINE Cut+Finish 5\/5 is an interesting alternative: same cut as the FS 05-04, but one step better gloss ability (5 instead of 4) — though at a higher price per litre. The choice between the FS 05-04 and the Cut+Finish comes down to whether you want to skip the final finishing pass regularly or not.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a follow-up polish after the FS 05-04, two picks make sense depending on the result you want: the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e (cut grade 3, gloss grade 6) for a quick finishing pass with maximum gloss, or the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish 4\/6\u003c\/a\u003e for cases where structured rework is still needed after wet-sanding. Both finishing polishes work the FS 05-04's holograms out fully and prep the paint for a final sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 — container sizes, target audience and bottom line\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in three container sizes: 250 ml for first use, the test in the shop or the occasional single-car job; 1 litre as the standard container for regular prep of small-to-medium car volumes; and 5 litres for used-car dealers, car rental firms and detailing businesses with high throughput. Pick the container size based on how often you'll actually use it — compounds have a limited shelf life once opened, and an oversized container that sits in the shop for years loses effectiveness as the emulsion separates and dries out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWho the FS 05-04 is for: professional vehicle detailers focused on the used-car business, dealers and shops that take cars in part-exchange and visually upgrade them before resale; car-wash businesses with a prep service; detailing studios after an economical compound for standard correction jobs, without having to set up a multi-stage polish for every car. For home users who want to prep their car once a year, the 250 ml container is enough — though running a rotary machine is a must to reach the specified cutting power.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: the SONAX PROFILINE FS 05-04 is the right cutting compound when you want to correct in one pass and land a presentable gloss result. The mix of cut grade 5 and gloss grade 4, the silicone-free, low-dust formula, plus the choice of three container sizes make it a versatile tool in the daily polishing grind. If you want a product that runs economically, safely and repeatably in used-car prep, the FS 05-04 is a solid, proven solution.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57344960790863,"sku":"D1-SNX-3193000","price":39.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true},{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57344960823631,"sku":"D1-SNX-3195000","price":158.27,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04_250ml.png?v=1774730669"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-felgenreiniger","title":"PROFILINE FelgenReiniger wheel cleaner (SONAX)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eWheel cleaner in pro-size containers — SONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger for detailing shops\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhy does a detailing shop need a professional wheel cleaner? This pro wheel cleaner is an alkaline cleaner in bulk sizes up to 200 litres — it pulls brake dust, road grime and baked-on crust off alloy wheels, steel wheels and coated wheels efficiently and without harming the surface.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWheels are the dirtiest parts on the whole car: brake dust from ceramic and metallic pads, baked-in road grime and oil splatter from the engine bay combine into a layer that bakes on under hot braking and barely shifts without a strong cleaner. At the same time, wheels are often made of sensitive aluminium alloys or carry high-grade coatings that aggressive acid cleaners can attack. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/strong\u003e handles all of this: as an alkaline cleaner with no hydrofluoric-acid content, it pulls stubborn brake dust and wheel grime without touching the wheel surface. Available in 1 litre, 5 litre, 25 litre and 200 litre for non-stop professional use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eAlkaline formula, no hydrofluoric acid — gentle on every type of wheel.\u003c\/strong\u003e Wheel cleaners with hydrofluoric acid are very effective, but they attack aluminium surfaces, clear-coat finishes and chrome trim — and over time it shows up as dulling and staining. The PROFILINE FelgenReiniger works with alkaline actives that break down brake dust and grime without chemically damaging the wheel surface. It's safe on cast-alloy wheels, chrome wheels, coated wheels and steel wheels — one product for the whole shop, no sorting by wheel type.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePro sizes up to 200 litres for cost-effective daily use.\u003c\/strong\u003e On the consumer side, wheel cleaners come in 500 ml or 1 litre — for shops running dozens of cars a day, that makes no economic sense. The PROFILINE FelgenReiniger comes in pro sizes up to 200 litres, so you can keep filling spray bottles and pressure sprayers for daily work. The price per litre in the 25-litre or 200-litre size is far lower than the 1-litre format — a real cost advantage for any shop that burns through a lot of wheel cleaner.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFast dwell time for an efficient wash-bay workflow.\u003c\/strong\u003e In professional washes and detailing shops, dwell time matters: products that need a long soak slow you down when several cars are going through at once. On typical wheel grime, the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger shows visible results after just 1–3 minutes of dwell time — the brake dust loosens up and can be rinsed off or agitated with a wheel brush, no hard scrubbing needed.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results, spray the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger onto dry, cool wheels — not onto hot wheels straight after a drive, or the product flashes off too fast and can leave stains. Let the wheels cool down first (at least 10 minutes after the engine's off), then spray on the cleaner, let it dwell for 2–3 minutes, work it with a suitable wheel brush and rinse thoroughly. For stubborn baked-on brake dust, bump the dwell time up to 5 minutes and don't let it dry out — re-wet it if you have to. For extreme brake dust, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-red-max-felgenreiniger\"\u003ePROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/a\u003e is the stronger option with a colour indicator.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger works — alkaline actives and brake-dust release\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003ePROFILINE FelgenReiniger\u003c\/strong\u003e works with a pH-alkaline active system that softens the bonds between brake-dust particles and the wheel surface. Brake dust is made up of fine metal particles (iron, copper), carbon from the friction lining and organic binders. Heat from braking bakes these particles onto the wheel surface — especially on warm alloy wheels, which act as a heat sink for the brakes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe alkaline actives in the FelgenReiniger break down both the organic binders and the oxide bonds between iron particles and the aluminium surface. The result is a dirt matrix that, after enough dwell time, lifts off the wheel completely with water and a bit of brush work — without heavy mechanical pressure or aggressive acids. On wheels that get cleaned regularly, a light film often comes off with just a rinse, no brush; on neglected wheels, dwell time plus brush work is the most efficient route.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH of the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger is set so it stays gentle on aluminium alloys: strongly alkaline cleaners (pH \u0026gt; 13) attack aluminium and can damage the anodising on alloy wheels. The PROFILINE FelgenReiniger balances cleaning power against material compatibility for non-stop professional use, with no risk to high-grade wheel surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important point in professional use is the right dilution. The PROFILINE FelgenReiniger is a concentrate that you can use neat or diluted depending on how dirty the wheel is. For light, fresh dirt after a normal drive, a dilution of 1:3 (1 part cleaner, 3 parts water) is plenty. For stubborn baked-on brake dust after long standing time or hard track use, run it neat. Diluting cuts product use while still cleaning well, and it brings the cost per cleaned wheel right down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the FelgenReiniger — dwell time, brushing and rinsing\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe standard process for wheel cleaning in the shop: do the wheels before you wash the body. Spray the wheel cleaner onto a dry or pre-wetted wheel — good coverage across all areas matters, including the inner face of the spokes and the brake areas behind them. Let it dwell for 2–3 minutes. Work it with a wheel brush (a spoke brush plus a flat wheel brush), getting into every area of the wheel. Rinse thoroughly with a strong jet of water — residue can leave stains once it dries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor automated wash-line processes, go with the 25-litre or 200-litre size: the product gets fed into the machine's wheel-cleaner tank and sprayed onto the wheels through the automatic dosing. Dwell time in a tunnel wash is short (30–60 seconds), so you should run a slightly higher concentration, or treat heavily soiled wheels by hand afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor mobile detailing, the 1-litre format in a spray bottle works well — enough for 8–12 cars per fill. If you're reordering regularly, the 5-litre size is an economical refill option.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn frequently asked questions: yes, the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger is also fine on cast-alloy spoke wheels with a vapour-coated or polished aluminium surface, as long as you don't overrun the dwell time. Polished alloy wheels (so-called \"Diamond Cut\" or machined wheels) react more sensitively to chemical cleaners than painted wheels: on these special wheels, let the cleaner dwell for 2 minutes max, rinse straight away with water and don't use an abrasive brush. The alkalinity of the cleaner can cause tarnishing on polished aluminium if it dwells too long — at normal dwell time the risk is minimal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger fits — washes, reconditioning and mobile service\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a fixed reconditioning shop, the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger is the standard product for wheel cleaning before every car detail. Even on cars going in for polishing or sealing, the wheels need to be clean — brake dust on the wheels would get flung onto the freshly polished paint by spray water during the job and create new scratches. Cleaning the wheels as the first step of every detail with the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger is a must, not an option.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCar dealers reconditioning used cars get through a lot of wheel cleaner: every car in intake recon needs clean wheels before it hits the showroom. The 25-litre size covers the demand of an average-sized dealership for several weeks and saves a lot of ordering hassle and cost compared with smaller sizes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe PROFILINE FelgenReiniger compared — the wheel-cleaner range at SONAX\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE wheel-cleaner range has two main products: the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger (this product) and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger-red-max-felgenreiniger\"\u003ePROFILINE FelgenReiniger Red Max\u003c\/a\u003e with a colour indicator. The Red Max contains an iron indicator that turns reddish on contact with iron particles from brake dust, so you can see exactly where the brake dust is — handy for visually checking the cleaning result and for showing the customer (\"look how much brake dust was on your wheel\"). The standard FelgenReiniger without a colour indicator is usually cheaper and plenty for shops that don't need the colour reaction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the consumer side, SONAX offers the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-felgenbeast-felgenreiniger\"\u003eSONAX FelgenBeast wheel cleaner\u003c\/a\u003e — a strongly alkaline wheel cleaner with especially fast action. The PROFILINE FelgenReiniger is built for non-stop use in bulk sizes, while the FelgenBeast is a consumer format for occasional use. For shops that demand very fast action and cleaning power and don't mind the cost in bulk sizes, the Red Max in 5-litre or 25-litre can also be an option.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE FelgenReiniger — sizes and cost comparison\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe PROFILINE FelgenReiniger comes in four sizes: 1 litre (for mobile use and getting started), 5 litre (for smaller shops and as a 1–2 month stock), 25 litre (for mid-sized shops as a quarterly supply) and 200 litre as a bulk size for large washes and fleet operators. The right size depends on your monthly use: at 10–15 cars a month the 5-litre size is ideal; at 50+ cars a month the 25-litre pays off, and for industrial use the 200-litre.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops trying the FelgenReiniger for the first time, start with the 1-litre format to test the cleaning power on your own fleet. Once you're sold, move up to the 5-litre or 25-litre and enjoy the lower price per litre. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 carries every size of the PROFILINE FelgenReiniger.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that often gets underrated day-to-day: picking the right brush. A good wheel cleaner only shows its full potential paired with a suitable wheel brush. For spoke wheels, go with a flexible spoke brush that reaches into tight gaps; for solid-face wheels, a flat bristle brush that covers the whole inner face is ideal. If you only spray and rinse without brushing, you'll always leave residue in the recesses and along the inner edges of the spokes on heavily soiled wheels. Investing in a good set of brushes is as much a part of professional wheel cleaning as the right cleaner.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57344985399631,"sku":"D1-SNX-2305000","price":62.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":57344985432399,"sku":"D1-SNX-2307050","price":231.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":57344985465167,"sku":"D1-SNX-2309050","price":1936.13,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-felgenreiniger_1liter.png?v=1774730640"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger","title":"PROFILINE GlassCleaner glass cleaner (concentrate)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eProfessional glass cleaning in bulk — SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner concentrate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner? The highly concentrated glass cleaner concentrate for professional use — streak-free cleaning of all vehicle glass, mirrors and glass surfaces, available in 10 litre, 25 litre and 200 litre containers for high-throughput operations.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn car washes, detailing operations and fleet workshops the glass cleaner you get through is huge: every vehicle has several square metres of glass that need cleaning inside and out during the job. You can't cover professional demand economically with 500 ml bottles. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is the concentrate built for exactly that: a highly concentrated glass cleaner formula in bulk containers — 10 litre, 25 litre and 200 litre — that diluted gives you many times the amount of ready-to-use glass cleaner. Streak-free cleaning on windscreens, side windows, rear windows, mirrors and glass of all kinds — professional, economical, and available in commercial volumes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHighly concentrated glass cleaner concentrate for economical bulk demand — 10 L, 25 L, 200 L.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner is formulated as a concentrate that diluted gives many times the original volume. For professional operations running many vehicles a day, the concentrate format works out far cheaper than buying ready-to-use glass cleaner in small bottles. The three container sizes fit different operation sizes: from the small detailing shop (10 litre) to the big fleet or car wash (200 litre).\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStreak-free cleaning on every type of glass — inside and out.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner formula is dialled in for a streak-free finish on vehicle glass: rain and limescale streaks on outer windows, greasy film and fingerprints on inner glass, silicone residue from window rubbers on the glass surface — the GlassCleaner pulls all of it off completely and without residue. On the inside of the glass the cleaning power really counts: a greasy film on the inside of the windscreen badly affects visibility through light reflection.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFast acting and fast drying — no annoying second wipe needed.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner dries fast and leaves no residue that would need a second wipe. In a professional shop the work pace is decisive — a glass cleaner that dries streak-free on the first pass saves several minutes per vehicle compared with products you have to go back over.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Decant the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e from the bulk container straight into \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-sprayboy-profi-spruhflasche\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Sprayboy spray bottles\u003c\/a\u003e at the right dilution — and write the dilution ratio on the bottle. Dilute it a touch stronger for outside cleaning, run it more concentrated for stubborn interior grime (greasy film, smoker's film). When you do the inside of windscreens, wipe the glass crosswise with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-microfasertuch-glas-mikrofasertuch\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MicrofaserTuch Glas\u003c\/a\u003e — first pass across, second pass top to bottom — that stops the greasy film smearing and gets you a streak-free finish. Never work in direct sunlight on hot glass — the cleaner flashes off too fast and leaves streaks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eFormula and concentrate strength — what sets the SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner apart\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBefore you start cleaning, it pays to look at the glass in raking light — ideally with a detailing light or under room lighting from a shallow angle. That makes all the streaks, the typical interior greasy film and limescale spots show up, the ones you easily miss without that check and that catch you out after cleaning. A quick look before and after tells you straight away whether the result really is streak-free — or whether a second pass is needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe glass cleaner formula of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is based on a surfactant-alcohol blend tuned to the specific types of grime found on vehicle glass. Outer windows are mainly loaded with inorganic residue: limescale from rainwater, mineral dust deposits, fine dust and oil-mist aerosols from driving. Inner windows have a different grime profile: the typical interior greasy film comes from outgassing of plastics and foams inside the vehicle, made worse by smoke, body oils from hands and hair, plus cleaning-agent aerosols. The GlassCleaner pulls both types off effectively.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe alcohol content in the formula drives the fast evaporation after you lay it on — that stops streaking from the product sitting too long or drying unevenly. The surfactants lift the grease-based and mineral grime, emulsify it and let you wipe it all off with no residue. The surfactant-to-alcohol ratio is balanced so the GlassCleaner still flows well and works fast at low outside temperatures (winter use) without freezing on cold glass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAnother plus of the concentrated formula: in concentrate form the product is more stable and stores better than ready-diluted glass cleaner. Ready-diluted glass cleaners can lose effectiveness over long storage in poor conditions (frost, direct sunlight). The concentrate stays fully effective over many months and through changing temperatures — a clear advantage for operations that keep larger stocks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAs a concentrate the SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner is designed to be diluted with water. The typical dilution ratio for normal glass grime, depending on concentration level and dirt load, runs from 1:5 to 1:20 — so one litre of concentrate gives you 5 to 20 litres of ready-to-use glass cleaner. With a 10 litre container that means a stock of 50 to 200 litres of ready-to-use product — and at about 50–100 ml per vehicle for inside and outside cleaning, a 10 litre container covers 500 to over 2000 vehicle jobs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDilution and use — the right concentration for different jobs\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe right dilution of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e depends on how dirty the glass is and where you're using it. For standard cleaning of outer windows with normal road grime (dust, rain spots, light grease marks) a higher dilution does the job — less concentrate, more water. For tougher grime like heavy greasy film on inner glass, the typical smoker's-car coating or silicone residue from seal rubbers, a lower dilution (more concentrate) works better — fewer wipes, faster result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn a professional shop a two-stage dilution system makes sense: one spray bottle at standard dilution for normal cleaning, a second bottle with a stronger mix for stubborn interior grime. Both bottles get filled from the same bulk container, so you stay flexible without swapping product. With the SONAX PROFILINE Sprayboy as the standard spray bottle, the GlassCleaner system slots straight into the rest of your SONAX PROFILINE setup.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor car washes and automatic wash systems there are dedicated dosing units that draw the glass cleaner straight from the 200 litre container and feed it into the system at the right concentration. The SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner is compatible with this kind of dosing gear — the formula is tuned to deliver an optimal result even with machine application and rinse-off afterwards. For manual work the spray bottle method is the recommended way to go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eGlassCleaner vs. Glass Detailer — the right glass product for each job\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the SONAX PROFILINE glass cleaning range, alongside the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e there's also the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glass-detailer-concentrate-glasreinigerkonzentrat\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e — two products that differ in concept and use. The GlassCleaner is the base cleaner concentrate for full glass cleaning: it pulls off all grime and leaves a clean glass surface with no coating. The Glass Detailer Concentrate is a specialist for the last step: it cleans and seals at the same time, gives the glass a hydrophobic treatment after cleaning and improves the way water runs off the screen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe order in the workflow is clear: first clean and degrease fully with the GlassCleaner, then optionally finish the glass with the Glass Detailer Concentrate. Laying the Glass Detailer onto glass that isn't fully degreased leads to uneven sealing and streaking. The two products are complementary, not interchangeable — the GlassCleaner as the cleaning base, the Glass Detailer as the finishing layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor operations that want to run just one glass product, the SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner is the right base: it covers 90% of glass cleaning needs — clean, streak-free windows with no coating. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-acrylglasreiniger-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e, on the other hand, is built for special needs like acrylic glass, Plexiglas and acrylic glazing — not as a replacement for the GlassCleaner, but as an add-on for jobs with sensitive plastic glazing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMaterial compatibility and limits — what the GlassCleaner can handle and what it can't\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e is approved for all standard vehicle glass types: toughened safety glass (ESG), laminated safety glass (VSG), tinted glass, heated rear windows and normal side windows. The formula is alkali-tolerant and clear-coat compatible, and can also be used on surfaces next to body paint — the GlassCleaner won't damage the colour pigments or the clear coat if it accidentally gets onto paintwork. For targeted cleaning, though, keep it mainly on glass surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor plastic glazing made of acrylic glass (PMMA) or polycarbonate (PC) — as found in motorcycle fairings, classic-car screens, boat tops or special vehicle bodies — the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-acrylglasreiniger-glasreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Acryl+GlasReiniger\u003c\/a\u003e is the better pick. Harsh surfactants and alcohols in normal glass cleaners can attack plastic glazing over time, dull it or make it brittle. The SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner is optimised for real glass, not for plastic glazing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn coated glass — e.g. after laying down the SONAX PROFILINE Glass Detailer Concentrate or another glass sealant — the GlassCleaner is fine to use too: the glass sealant stays intact under regular cleaner use, as long as no aggressive solvents are in the product. On sealed glass the GlassCleaner dries even faster, since the hydrophobic coating speeds the cleaner running off — that improves the result day-to-day and often needs less product than on unsealed glass. For looking after films (PPF, tint film) don't spray the GlassCleaner straight onto the film — put it on the cloth first and then onto the surface, to avoid lifting the edges.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner — container size and which one to pick\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in three container sizes: 10 litre for smaller operations and detailing studios, 25 litre for mid-sized detailing shops and car washes, 200 litre as a drum for large operations, fleets and car washes with very high daily throughput. Pick the container size by your throughput: at 10–20 vehicles a day the 10 litre container is the economical choice, at 50–100 vehicles a day the 25 litre. The 200 litre drum only makes sense with very high throughput and enough storage space.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor mobile detailers carrying the GlassCleaner concentrate in the van, the 10 litre container is easy to handle and gives a big stock for many weeks of work. The container with its plastic drain tap can be mounted right in the van or on the detailing cart — topping up the spray bottles each day goes quick and clean, no lifting and tipping the container.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor mobile detailers carrying the GlassCleaner concentrate in the van, it also pays to label the spray bottles with a waterproof marker or stickers — working on the road or at a customer's place, mixing up cleaners can quickly lead to results you didn't want. If you pre-portion several SONAX PROFILINE products into spray bottles at once, use a separate colour label or a separate Sprayboy type for each product to avoid mix-ups. An established labelling system saves time and mistakes in the daily grind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE GlassCleaner concentrate is an economical base product that shouldn't be missing from any professional detailing operation. The concentrate logic — buy once, use many times over — makes it the cheapest glass cleaner approach for operations, and the professional, streak-free cleaning with no second wipe is the quality that counts day-to-day.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"10 liters","offer_id":57345038254415,"sku":"D1-SNX-3356000","price":69.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"25 liters","offer_id":57345038287183,"sku":"D1-SNX-3357050","price":159.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":57345038319951,"sku":"D1-SNX-3359000","price":742.56,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner_10liter.png?v=1774730680"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-innenreiniger-innenraumreiniger","title":"PROFILINE InnenReiniger Interior Cleaner","description":"\u003ch2\u003eInterior cleaning at volume — SONAX PROFILINE InnenReiniger as a concentrate for pros\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat sets the interior cleaner from the SONAX PROFILINE range apart? This high-performance interior-cleaner concentrate for fabric, plastic and leather cleans car interiors effectively and economically — in 10-litre and 200-litre containers for high-throughput pro shops.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eInterior cleaning eats time and material, and it's one of the core jobs in any professional detailing shop. If you're cleaning several interiors a day, you need a product that just works, doses economically and can be kept on hand in real quantity. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE InnenReiniger\u003c\/strong\u003e is built as a concentrate — for economical bulk use in the bay — and comes in 10 litres for mid-size shops and a 200-litre drum for big operations and car-wash sites with steady, ongoing demand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eConcentrate for flexible dosing and high yield.\u003c\/strong\u003e Being a concentrate, you dilute it to whatever strength the dirt calls for. Lightly soiled surfaces get a weaker mix; heavily soiled fabric or dried-on residue needs a stronger one. That flexibility brings your cost per job down and lets you run the same product across very different cleaning intensities.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks across fabric, plastic and leather.\u003c\/strong\u003e A car interior is a mix of materials — fabric seats, hard plastic trim, leather or faux leather, carpets and the headliner. The InnenReiniger handles the lot, so you're not swapping cleaners every time the surface changes. That simplifies the workflow a lot and cuts how many specialist products you have to stock.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eEconomical bulk sizes for high throughput.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 10-litre canister and the 200-litre drum are built for nonstop pro use. Compared with small bottles the price per litre drops sharply, and over a day's worth of cars that lands straight in your margin. The 200-litre drum suits shops running fixed dosing systems.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For everyday routine interior cleaning, dilute the InnenReiniger 1:10 with water. For stubborn marks on fabric seats or heavily soiled floor mats you can take it up to 1:5 or run it neat. Lay the diluted product down with a microfibre cloth, a soft brush or an applicator sponge — don't let it dry on the surface; wipe it off right after the dwell time or take it off with a damp cloth. On leather, always follow the clean with a proper leather conditioner, since cleaners pull the natural oils out of the hide.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eInnenReiniger as a concentrate — how it works, what's in it and dilution guidance\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE InnenReiniger\u003c\/strong\u003e is formulated as a surfactant-based concentrate — surfactants are molecules that bridge water and grease, wrap around dirt particles and lift them off the surface as you wipe. That base tech is well established in car-interior cleaning, because interior grime is a mix of body oils, dust, food residue and fabric particles — all things tensid-based cleaners pull apart reliably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate format has a few clear edges over ready-to-use sprays: transport cost and storage volume per unit are lower, since a big chunk of a ready-to-use product is water you can add cheaper on site. In a pro shop burning through many litres a day, that edge adds up to real savings over the year.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe recommended dilution ratios for the InnenReiniger depend on the job. As a rough guide: for routine cleaning of lightly soiled surfaces (dashboard, door cards, cubbies) go 1:10 to 1:15. For medium soiling (seats, floor mats after normal use) 1:5 to 1:8 works. For heavy soiling — fabric seats with food or drink stains, ground-in dirt — you can set the concentrate to 1:2 to 1:3 or work it in neat with a brush.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe concentrate is also tuned to leave no residue on surfaces once you've wiped it off — nothing that spoils the finish. A common gripe with cheaper interior cleaners is streaking on smooth plastic: the product dries unevenly and leaves streaks that only show up in direct light. This one is built to work clean, which cuts down how much rework the treated panels need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne key note for leather: surfactants don't just lift dirt, they strip the conditioning oils out of the hide too. So regular cleaning of leather seats with the InnenReiniger should always go hand in hand with a follow-up using a leather-care product compatible with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-leathercleaner-lederreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE LeatherCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e, to put the nutrients back and keep the material supple.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the InnenReiniger properly — workflow for fabric, plastic and tough stains\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a full interior clean the workflow starts with pulling out all the loose stuff and vacuuming the cabin thoroughly. Dust and dry dirt you don't remove before going wet turns into a mud with the cleaner, which makes the job harder and loads up your cloth fast. Only once it's vacuumed does the InnenReiniger come into play.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn hard plastic surfaces — dashboard, centre console, door cards — apply the diluted solution with a damp microfibre cloth and work it in with circular motions. The cloth should be damp, not wet; too much moisture can creep into gaps and seams and cause staining. After a dwell time of 30–60 seconds, lift the dirt with a clean, dry microfibre cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor fabric seats and carpets, spray the diluted solution on and then work it in with a medium cleaning brush. Brush in the direction of the fibres to avoid roughing them up. On heavy stains you can go over the area several times; between passes let the surface dry off briefly so the moisture doesn't soak into the seat foam. A wet vac after the last pass pulls up the loosened grime and excess liquid and cuts the drying time right down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor machine fabric cleaning — with a steam cleaner or an extraction machine — the diluted InnenReiniger can go into the machine's tank as the cleaning agent. Being compatible with extraction machines makes it an economical alternative to pricey specialist products for hot-steam interior cleaning. When you run it in an extraction machine, pick a slightly higher dilution than for manual application to avoid too much foaming inside the unit. If in doubt, check with the machine maker about the maximum concentrations recommended for the cleaning solution — some extraction machines aren't built for very high-foam products and could be damaged.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-innenraumschwamm-duo-applikationsschwamm\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE InnenraumSchwamm \"Duo\"\u003c\/a\u003e works as an applicator for cleaning smooth plastic and leather surfaces — its two different sides let you both clean and lay down care products after cleaning with the same tool.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the InnenReiniger earns its keep — areas of use\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe product is built for shops cleaning a lot of cars a day. Detailing shops, rental fleets, fleet managers, dealerships and reconditioners prepping used cars for resale are the typical users. For these shops it's not just cleaning power that counts but the economics too — the InnenReiniger as a concentrate in the 10- or 200-litre size pushes the material cost per car down to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor used-car reconditioning the InnenReiniger is especially relevant: a used interior shows the usual wear patterns after years of daily use — greasy build-up on the wheel and armrests, ground-in dirt in the seats, dust in the vents and lint on the carpet. A thorough pass with the InnenReiniger — from the headliner down to the floor mats — lifts the perceived value of the car a lot and is decisive for the dealer sale.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFleet operators and rental firms running regular interior cleans across their fleet get the most out of the 200-litre drum. With a fixed dosing system — a wall pump or an automatic mixing rig — the InnenReiniger can be dosed straight at ratio into the spray bottle or container, with no manual decanting. That infrastructure pays for itself fast at high car throughput.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHeadliners are among the trickiest spots in interior cleaning. The fabric is delicate, can't get too wet (the soaked adhesive can warp it) and shouldn't be worked too hard with a brush. For the headliner, go for a higher dilution of the InnenReiniger (1:15 to 1:20) and apply it with a lightly damp microfibre cloth in gentle, linear strokes. No scrubbing — the dirt comes off through the surfactant action, not through mechanical abrasion. That gentle approach keeps the headliner in good shape over many cleans.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that offer specialist cleaning on top of standard interior work — leather cleaning, mould removal, odour neutralisation — the InnenReiniger is the base cleaner, the first stage. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-sensitivesurface-detailer-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SensitiveSurface Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e handles the fine care of delicate surfaces after the base clean with the InnenReiniger, and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-interior-detailer-concentrate-innenraumreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Interior Detailer Concentrate\u003c\/a\u003e rounds it off as a care product that conditions surfaces after cleaning.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe InnenReiniger compared — concentrate vs ready-to-use, InnenReiniger vs specialist cleaner\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn the market there are two basic approaches to car-interior cleaning: ready-to-use sprays and concentrates. Ready-to-use products are good to go and need no dosing — they suit occasional use or staff with no experience of dilution ratios. Concentrates cost more per litre but, once diluted, come out much cheaper per job. In a high-volume pro shop the concentrate pays off against ready-to-use alternatives within just a few weeks of running.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eComparing it with specialist cleaners — dedicated leather cleaner, fabric cleaner, plastic cleaner — shows the strength of the all-rounder InnenReiniger: one product for every surface simplifies your stockroom, cuts the number of products and streamlines the workflow. That said, if you're cleaning very delicate leather (Nappa, natural hide) or special fabrics (Alcantara, velour), look at the more specific products in the SONAX PROFILINE range, which are tuned for those materials.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn bang for the buck the concentrate is clearly the smartest format for a pro shop. Ready-to-use interior cleaners in 500 ml or 1-litre bottles cost several times more per job than the equivalent mixed from concentrate. Once you put the cost per cleaned car of the InnenReiniger concentrate up against a branded spray, the savings jump out at you straight away — and you see why professional shops stick to concentrates without fail.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying SONAX PROFILINE InnenReiniger — container sizes and what to pick for your shop\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOdour problems inside the car — a common customer job — aren't fully solved by the InnenReiniger alone, but they're cut down a lot. Smells come from mould, dried organic residue and particles bedded into the fabric layers. The InnenReiniger removes the organic base of the smell through its cleaning action; for stubborn odours, follow the base clean with a dedicated odour neutraliser. Pairing a thorough mechanical clean using the InnenReiniger with a follow-up odour neutralisation is the most effective system for cars with bad smell problems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe choice between the 10-litre canister and the 200-litre drum comes down to your shop's daily use. For a detailing shop doing a full interior on 3–5 cars a day, the 10-litre size lasts several weeks. Bigger operations with 10 or more cars a day — rentals, dealerships or car-wash sites — benefit from the 200-litre drum, which pushes the material cost per job down further and means fewer reorders.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe InnenReiniger slots seamlessly into the PROFILINE system workflow: pre-clean with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger\"\u003eMultiClean \"Alkaline\"\u003c\/a\u003e for the exterior wash, InnenReiniger for the interior, SensitiveSurface Detailer or Interior Detailer for the care finish — a matched system from one brand that makes professional results reliably repeatable, and one whose completeness cuts your need for other makers' products in day-to-day reconditioning down to a minimum.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePicking the right dilution ratio becomes second nature with a little experience. Shops new to the concentrate can start with a standard 1:10 ratio and tweak it to 1:7 or 1:5 if the result falls short. It's worth keeping a small log of the dilutions you use for different car and soiling types — after a few weeks the shop has a reliable standard that saves time and locks in consistent results. If you work with several staff, you can write this log up as an internal work instruction, so everyone runs the same dilutions and application parameters — a decisive step toward quality control in a growing shop.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops just stepping into the PROFILINE range, the InnenReiniger is a solid way in: it's versatile, easy to use and covers the most important part of the reconditioning business. Choosing the concentrate over ready-to-use products is a clear sign the shop works professionally and cost-efficiently — a mark of quality that shows in the price and in how you talk to customers. If you can tell your customer you work with a professional SONAX PROFILINE concentrate, mixed to order, you're signalling experience and method — and you stand out clearly from shops working off supermarket sprays from a can. That transparency builds trust and justifies professional prices for the interior-cleaning job.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"10 liters","offer_id":57345050149199,"sku":"D1-SNX-3216050","price":77.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false},{"title":"200 liters","offer_id":57345050181967,"sku":"D1-SNX-3219000","price":716.38,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-innenreiniger_10l.png?v=1774731860"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-quickdetailer","title":"PROFILINE QuickDetailer","description":"\u003ch2\u003eGloss and protection between washes — SONAX PROFILINE QuickDetailer\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does a quick detailer actually do in a pro setting? It's a spray-on quick sealant for fast care between washes — it lifts light dirt, brings the gloss back and lays a fresh layer of protection on the paint, all without a full wash.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBetween washes, dust, water spots and light road grime build up on the paint and leave the car looking flat — without a full wash being needed or worth the effort. That's exactly what the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE QuickDetailer\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for: a spray detailer that freshens the look on dry or slightly damp surfaces, pulls dirt off and lays down a fresh layer of sealant at the same time. In the 5-litre pro container it's the cost-effective tool for daily use in detailing shops and car dealerships.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eQuick care with no wash — gloss and protection in one step.\u003c\/strong\u003e You spray the PROFILINE QuickDetailer onto a clean or lightly dusty surface and wipe it off with a microfibre cloth. What you're left with is a high-gloss, freshly sealed panel that beads water and lets dirt grab on less. The whole job takes under two minutes per panel — spot on for a quick refresh before a car goes out or gets picked up.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eStreak-free wipe-off for glass-clear gloss on paint and glass.\u003c\/strong\u003e The QuickDetailer is formulated to wipe off completely, with no streaking. Streaks show up when emulsifiers or wax residue stay behind on the surface as it dries. The PROFILINE formula packs surfactants that carry the product fully into the cloth and leave an even, deep-gloss layer — no hazing, no buffing afterwards.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e5-litre pro container for cost-effective, non-stop use.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 5-litre size is matched to what shops actually go through, where a quick detailer gets used daily across a lot of cars. Next to 500 ml consumer bottles, the price per litre in the big container is far lower. Detailing shops, dealerships and mobile detailers can decant it straight into spray bottles and keep a lasting stock ready for day-to-day work.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eQuick detailers get reached for more often in pro work than you'd think at first: the final wipe-down after polishing, freshening the look once a car's dried, prepping a vehicle for photos — every time, a quick detailer is the fastest route to a flawless shine. The 5-litre size of the PROFILINE QuickDetailer keeps that step affordable for shops with high vehicle throughput, without cutting any corners on product quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results with the QuickDetailer, work panel by panel: spray the product onto the paint, spread it lightly with the first side of a soft microfibre cloth, then wipe it off streak-free with the second side or a fresh cloth. This \"apply-and-remove\" technique stops the product from over-drying across big panels, especially in the sun or in warm weather. You can also reach for the PROFILINE QuickDetailer after polishing to pull off the last polish residue and bring the final gloss back — a fast last step that noticeably lifts the polishing result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow the SONAX PROFILINE QuickDetailer is formulated — spray sealant and how it works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003epro detailer from SONAX\u003c\/strong\u003e is built on a polymer-wax formula that lays down a thin, protective layer as it goes onto the paint. The polymers line themselves up on the surface and form an even, hydrophobic layer that beads water and gives dirt particles less to grab onto. Once you've wiped it off with the microfibre cloth, the protection is active straight away — no curing time, no waiting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe QuickDetailer's spray viscosity is dialled in so it clings to the surface without running off and spreads easily with the cloth. Detailers that are too thin run straight off and never leave an even layer. Ones that are too thick are a pain to spread and tend to streak. The PROFILINE formula hits the sweet spot where the viscosity makes both laying it down and wiping it off easier.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother technical edge of the PROFILINE formula is its temperature stability. A lot of cheap quick detailers are touchy about heat: in direct sun or on paint that's heated up in summer, the product flashes off too fast and leaves streaks or white residue. The PROFILINE formula includes evaporation retarders that keep the working window open even at higher temperatures. In practice that means you can lay the detailer down and wipe it off panel by panel at a good pace even in summer conditions, without the product drying onto the paint before the cloth follows. That's especially handy for mobile detailers who work in changing weather and don't have a climate-controlled studio to fall back on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow streak-free the finish comes out depends on two things: the formula and the glide of the cloth you wipe with. The microfibre cloth is a big part of how well the QuickDetailer wipes off. A soft, fine-pile microfibre like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-microfasertuch-soft-touch-mikrofasertuch\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MicrofaserTuch \"Soft Touch\"\u003c\/a\u003e is ideal for the wipe-off — the fibres take up the product completely without dragging the fresh layer back off. Too coarse a cloth would disturb the even layer and throw streaks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe QuickDetailer's protection doesn't last forever — it's no replacement for a full sealant or a coating. Its strength is in how often you use it: if you run a quick detailer at every wash or refresh, you keep the paint in good shape continuously and stretch the life of an existing base sealant considerably. The quick-detailer idea is an add-on to your sealing system — not a stand-in for it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops that work with ceramic coatings or high-end long-life polymer sealants, using the right quick detailer really matters. A quick detailer that leaves wax residue on an active ceramic coating can mask the ceramic layer's hydrophobics for a while and throw off the coating's gloss. The polymer-wax formula of the PROFILINE QuickDetailer is designed for vehicles without an active ceramic coating — for cars under a ceramic seal, go for the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-quickdetailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e with SiO₂ particles, which tops up the ceramic layer compatibly instead of masking it. For shops that look after both kinds of customer, that product choice is an important quality point.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the QuickDetailer — refreshing, final wipe-down and handover care\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThere are plenty of ways the QuickDetailer earns its keep in a pro shop. The most common is at vehicle handover: a freshly cleaned car, dried off after the wash, gets a brilliant shine and a fresh layer of protection from the QuickDetailer as the last step before it goes to the customer. That final step takes 10–15 minutes for a whole car and leaves a professional first impression that sticks with the customer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter polishing, the QuickDetailer is the finale: any polish residue left as a faint haze on the paint wipes off streak-free with the QuickDetailer and leaves a glass-clear high gloss. Here the QuickDetailer takes the place of the time-consuming wipe-down with separate cloths and spray alcohol — the one-step route is faster and gentler on freshly polished paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe QuickDetailer is just as good for a mid-cycle refresh on cars in a dealership showroom: fingerprints, dust films and light touch marks come off without a full wash. A staff member who freshens the showroom cars daily with the QuickDetailer keeps the display vehicles presentation-ready all the time — a small effort with a big payoff for how customers see the cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne often underrated use of the QuickDetailer is in vehicle photography. Dealer, detailing shop or private seller — anyone prepping a car for proper photos knows that the camera and the light expose every water spot, every dust trail and every dull patch without mercy. In a few minutes the quick detailer gets the paint reflecting perfectly for the shots: brilliant high gloss, no streaks, no fingerprints. The result is car photos that look professional and show the vehicle's sale value in an online listing far better than untouched shots. For dealerships that photograph a lot of cars every day, a lasting stock of quick detailer isn't a luxury — it's a sales-driving tool of the trade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the PROFILINE QuickDetailer fits in — showroom, detailing and mobile care\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe QuickDetailer's 5-litre container covers a pro's needs for many months. In detailing shops with high vehicle throughput, a big stock of quick detailer matters — you never want to run out, since it's indispensable in the final steps of the detailing process. The 5-litre container lets you fill several spray bottles for different stations and keeps the work flowing without interruption.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eMobile detailers who work on site at the customer's benefit from a central 5-litre stock they top their working bottles from for each job. A 500 ml spray bottle covers several cars, and the big supply keeps you going for weeks. The QuickDetailer concentrate can also be thinned down a touch to tune the spray behaviour to different climate conditions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor shops with several stations or several cars in detailing at once, it pays to decant the 5-litre container into smaller working bottles and set them up at each station. Spray bottles holding 500–750 ml with a fine-mist head are ideal: the fine mist spreads the product evenly across the paint without concentrating it, and stops overdosing. Too coarse a spray would let the product drip, and on dry paint that makes little wet spots that end up applied unevenly when you spread them with the cloth. The right spray technique — from 20–30 cm away, an even sweep across the panel — matters just as much as the product itself in pro use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-brilliantshine-detailer-spruehversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e is the next step up in the PROFILINE sealant range: more depth of gloss, stronger sealing performance, ideal for special detailing finishes. The PROFILINE QuickDetailer is the everyday product for regular use — more economical to run through, faster to apply, tuned for daily throughput.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePROFILINE QuickDetailer compared — SONAX detailer products and quick sealants\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWithin the SONAX detailer range, the PROFILINE QuickDetailer sits as the professional workhorse: it's not the show product for the competition detailer, it's the cost-effective everyday tool for shops with high vehicle throughput. Next to the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-brilliantshine-detailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eSONAX XTREME \"BrilliantShine\" Detailer\u003c\/a\u003e from the consumer range, the PROFILINE QuickDetailer offers a far more economical 5-litre format and a formula tuned to professional users.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you specialise in ceramic coatings, you'll reach for the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-quickdetailer-quick-detailer\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic QuickDetailer\u003c\/a\u003e — with SiO₂ protective particles for cars under an active ceramic coating. The PROFILINE QuickDetailer runs a classic polymer-wax formula and suits any vehicle with no specific coating requirement. Both products have their place — the choice comes down to the type of seal that's active on the car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE QuickDetailer — the cost-effective pro detailer container\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe 5-litre container is aimed at detailing shops, dealerships and mobile detailers who use a quick detailer daily and get the most out of a cost-effective large format. The quality is PROFILINE standard — professional performance at a price worked out for non-stop use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUsing a quick detailer regularly also shifts your long-term paint-care strategy for the better. Cars refreshed with a quick detailer every 1–2 weeks build up a thin sealant layer continuously between full washes. That keeps water spots and rain minerals from etching in deep — the kind that, on unsealed surfaces, gradually leave the clearcoat looking dull and uneven. This preventive effect is especially valuable in professional fleet management and with leased vehicles: cars that come back looking fresh and sealed avoid return complaints and spare the business the heavy detailing work that would otherwise pile up right before the lease ends. As a routine tool, the quick detailer saves more time and money over the long run than it costs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRun the PROFILINE QuickDetailer together with the PROFILINE MicrofaserTuch \"Soft Touch\" and you've got the ideal pairing for streak-free wipe-off and even high gloss. The 5-litre QuickDetailer container plus a set of Soft Touch cloths is the complete kit for professional quick care — from the handover polish to the daily showroom refresh.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57345085505871,"sku":"D1-SNX-2685000","price":55.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-quickdetailer-1_5l.png?v=1774731885"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-brilliantshine-detailer-spruehversiegelung","title":"PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer Spray Sealant","description":"\n\u003ch2\u003eSONAX PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer – the pro spray sealant for crystal-clear high gloss\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote style=\"border-left: 4px solid #007bff; padding-left: 15px; margin: 20px 0; font-style: italic; color: #555;\"\u003e\n  \u003cstrong\u003eA detailer asked us:\u003c\/strong\u003e „Which detailer goes on fast, wipes fingerprints away and brings the gloss straight back – without a load of re-polishing?“\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n  \u003cstrong\u003eOur answer:\u003c\/strong\u003e The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e is built for exactly that. As a pro spray sealant from the PROFILINE range, it stands out for its no-fuss application, instant gloss and a long-lasting protective film – spot on for vehicle handovers, showrooms and the finish after polishing.\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eIntro: why the PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer is the standard for pros\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eYou’re a detailer, a fleet carer or a workshop boss? Then you know the drill: after a wash or a polish the paint needs its gloss back right away, fingerprints have to go, and the surface should feel soft as velvet. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e is the answer to that daily grind. This pro spray is built specifically for professional use and hands you a mix of lightning-fast application, striking gloss and reliable paint protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eBrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e from the SONAX PROFILINE line isn’t just another quick detailer – it’s a thought-through finishing product that meets what pros need. With a refined \u003cstrong\u003ehybrid polymer technology\u003c\/strong\u003e, this detailer lays down an even, mirror-smooth surface in seconds that holds up even under harsh light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003e3 top benefits of the PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e1. Lightning-fast application, no drying headaches\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\nThe PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer goes on as a thin mist and gets wiped straight off with a microfibre cloth. Per vehicle it takes only a few minutes – perfect for the daily run. You don’t wait for the paint to dry; the detailer is ready to use and leaves no permanent marks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e2. Instant deep gloss and a visual surface lift\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\nThanks to the hybrid polymer formula, this detailer pulls up a deep, metallic gloss in a heartbeat that boosts the colour depth. Fine scratches and swirls are visually evened out, so the paint looks soft and flawless – even under glaring light.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e3. Long-lasting sealant effect and dirt repellency\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\nThe PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer leaves a protective polymer layer that gives you several weeks of water repellency and gloss protection. Dust and fingerprints cling less, and the paint stays clean and glossy for longer – ideal for vehicle handovers and showrooms.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eDetailing1’s tip from the shop: pro application for the best results\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the best results with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e, follow this proven routine:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003col\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003ePrep:\u003c\/strong\u003e The vehicle should be clean and dry. Lightly soiled surfaces can be treated straight away; with heavier grime, clean first.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApplication:\u003c\/strong\u003e Mist it thinly onto small sections with the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX Sprayboy\u003c\/strong\u003e applicator (about 1-2 sprays per panel).\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSpreading:\u003c\/strong\u003e Wipe it out evenly straight away with a lint-free microfibre cloth – no delay!\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFinish:\u003c\/strong\u003e Buff thoroughly with the dry side of the cloth until no residue is left.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eImportant:\u003c\/strong\u003e Never use it on hot surfaces or let it dry out – that can cause staining.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ol\u003e\n\n---\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe hybrid polymer technology: the secret behind the surface perfection\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer uses a proprietary \u003cstrong\u003ehybrid polymer formula\u003c\/strong\u003e developed specifically for professional demands. This technology combines several working principles:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVisual gloss effects:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ultra-fine polymers with reflective properties create an instant visual surface lift. The light refraction is optimised so the paint looks deeper and brighter – regardless of the paint quality underneath.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSurface smoothness:\u003c\/strong\u003e Special glide polymers visually even out microscopic unevenness and scratches. The result is a velvety-smooth feel and a flawless look.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eProtective coating:\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula leaves a thin, hydrophobic polymer layer that repels water and makes dirt cling less. It’s not a wax or sealant in the classic sense, but reliable short-term protection over several weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePaint-shop compatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e The formula was specifically developed so it can be safely used on freshly painted vehicles and in workshops too – with no interactions with clear coats or hard coats.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n---\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere to use it and pro application scenarios\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e is spot on for plenty of professional situations:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVehicle handover and resale:\u003c\/strong\u003e After a customer drive at the dealership or for a vehicle handover, a quick gloss refresh is the order of the day. The BrilliantShine Detailer brings deep gloss and freshness back to the paint in seconds per panel – perfect for customer handovers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eShowroom finish:\u003c\/strong\u003e Vehicles in showrooms gather dust and fingerprints fast. With the PROFILINE Detailer you sort these out in no time, without moving the vehicle into storage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFinish after polishing:\u003c\/strong\u003e After a machine polish or chemical surface treatment, this detailer wraps up the job. It pulls off polishing and treatment residue and gives the paint its final finish – without you having to lay down a separate wax layer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDaily paint care in the workshop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Workshops with fleet care also use the BrilliantShine Detailer for regular touch-ups between main washes. That way the paint surface stays in top shape.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFor matte and textured paints:\u003c\/strong\u003e The detailer also works on matte paints and film wraps, without sealing or changing them. Ideal for modern vehicle coatings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n---\n\n\u003ch3\u003eVisual results: gloss, depth and surface roughness\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSo what exactly happens to the paint when you use the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e? The results are measurable and visible:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGloss boost:\u003c\/strong\u003e Lab tests and field reports show a gloss increase of up to 15–25%, depending on how well the original paint has been looked after. That’s remarkable for a detailer – comparable to light machine-polish results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColour depth and saturation:\u003c\/strong\u003e The hybrid polymers intensify how the colour reads, especially on dark paints (black, blue, grey). The colour looks richer, deeper and more metallic – a sought-after look in the showroom and at handover.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSurface smoothness (Ra value):\u003c\/strong\u003e The surface roughness (Ra value) drops measurably. That means scratches and swirls are visually evened out, and the paint feels velvety – perfect for the fingernail test.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHydrophobicity and beading:\u003c\/strong\u003e After application a thin hydrophobic layer forms. Water droplets bead up and roll off the surface in bigger beads – clearly better than untreated paint, but not as extreme as with ceramic sealants.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n---\n\n\u003ch3\u003eComparison: PROFILINE BrilliantShine vs. XTREME BrilliantShine Detailer – which one is right for you?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX offers two versions of the BrilliantShine Detailer: the \u003cstrong\u003ePROFILINE version\u003c\/strong\u003e (5 litres, item number 02875000) and the \u003cstrong\u003eXTREME version\u003c\/strong\u003e (750 ml, for end users). How do they differ, and when do you reach for which one?\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer (02875000):\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSize:\u003c\/strong\u003e 5 litres – ideal for pros and workshops\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApplication:\u003c\/strong\u003e A pure detailer approach with the classic spray-and-wipe method (1-2 sprays per panel)\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFocus:\u003c\/strong\u003e Speed and cost efficiency for the daily run\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProtection time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 4-6 weeks of water repellency and gloss protection\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCost per use:\u003c\/strong\u003e Very economical, thanks to the larger container size\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWho it’s for:\u003c\/strong\u003e Dealership detailers, fleet care, workshops, pros with high volume\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eXTREME BrilliantShine Detailer (750 ml):\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSize:\u003c\/strong\u003e 750 ml – in a handy spray bottle for hobby detailers and private users\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApplication:\u003c\/strong\u003e A hybrid of detailer and spray sealant; often misted onto the cloth\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFocus:\u003c\/strong\u003e A balance of ease of use and protection\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProtection time:\u003c\/strong\u003e 6-8 weeks, with a slightly stronger sealant effect\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCost per use:\u003c\/strong\u003e Pricier than the PROFILINE, but handier for occasional users\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWho it’s for:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hobby detailers, end users, private vehicles, single cars\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOur pro tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e If you regularly work on several vehicles a week, the \u003cstrong\u003ePROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e is the clear pick. The 5-litre size isn’t just cheaper per use, it’s also better for the workshop workflow. The XTREME version is ideal if you only occasionally look after your own car or a few customer cars – it’s simply handier to store and use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n---\n\n\u003ch3\u003eLong-term effect and sealant duration: what can I realistically expect?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne of the most common misunderstandings is how long the protection from the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e lasts. The product isn’t a ceramic coating or a stubborn wax – it’s a detailer with sealant components. Here are realistic expectations:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGloss effect:\u003c\/strong\u003e The visible gloss-refresh effect holds for 2–3 weeks, depending on the weather and how often you wash. After that the paint doesn’t look bad, but the extra deep gloss fades.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHydrophobicity and beading:\u003c\/strong\u003e The water repellency lasts 4–6 weeks in normal weather, shorter under extreme UV. A fresh mist renews this protective layer right away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eChemical protection:\u003c\/strong\u003e The polymer layer offers basic protection against bird droppings, tree sap and industrial fallout for about 2–3 weeks. After that the vehicle isn’t at risk, but dirt clings more easily again.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBottom line for pros:\u003c\/strong\u003e If you want to keep that optimal look, a refresh every 3–4 weeks is ideal. It’s quick (5 minutes per vehicle) and costs just a few EUR per use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n---\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice: why the PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer is a must-have\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eShould you buy the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e for your workshop, your dealership or your private detailing passion? Our clear answer: \u003cstrong\u003eyes, absolutely.\u003c\/strong\u003e Here’s why:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eValue for money:\u003c\/strong\u003e At around 15–18 EUR per litre (in the 5-litre size), the PROFILINE Detailer is cheaper than many alternatives. The results, though, are on a par with products that cost twice as much.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReliability and consistency:\u003c\/strong\u003e SONAX is an established maker with 70 years of experience. The BrilliantShine Detailer has been tested a thousand times over and proves itself daily in workshops worldwide. You can trust the quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWorkflow efficiency:\u003c\/strong\u003e The fast application saves time and money. Compared to machine-polish work or elaborate ceramic sealants, this detailer is lightning-fast – ideal for high vehicle volumes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eUniversal use:\u003c\/strong\u003e The detailer works on all paint types: clear coat, metallic, matte, textured, ceramic pre-sealed. That’s handy day-to-day – you don’t need to stock different versions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eIdeal for vehicle handovers:\u003c\/strong\u003e When you hand over cars or show them in the showroom, a freshly misted BrilliantShine Detailer is a quick, striking finishing touch. Customers see the difference straight away – it creates a premium feel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePays off long term:\u003c\/strong\u003e The 5-litre can lasts 3–6 months depending on how hard you use it. That’s a safe, predictable investment with no nasty surprises.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBottom line:\u003c\/strong\u003e The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer\u003c\/strong\u003e isn’t „just“ a quick detailer – it’s a thought-through finishing product with sealant components, built for professional demands. With its hybrid polymer technology, the lightning-fast application and the striking visual results, it earns a permanent spot in your detailing arsenal. Whether it’s a vehicle handover, a showroom finish or regular paint care – this detailer delivers consistency, efficiency and results that win people over.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eDiscover the SONAX PROFILINE BrilliantShine Detailer spray sealant and see for yourself why pros worldwide trust it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57345085604175,"sku":"D1-SNX-2875000","price":55.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-brilliantshine-detailer-1_5l.png?v=1774731845"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-ceramic-spraycoating-spruehversiegelung-keramik","title":"PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating Spray Sealant (Ceramic)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBuild ceramic protection across a lot of cars, fast and cost-effectively — SONAX PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating in day-to-day use\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat sets a spray ceramic sealant apart from a classic liquid ceramic coating? The spray application is quicker to work with and cuts the labour per car — perfect for shops pushing high sealing volume.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn a professional detailing shop, time is money. A classic ceramic coating needs heavy surface prep, a controlled coat laid down by hand and several hours of curing — all of which throttles how many cars you can turn over in a day. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e takes a different route: as a spray sealant in the 5-litre pro container, it goes on fast and evenly and lets you run an efficient ceramic seal even when you're working through plenty of cars a day. This is the product for a professional sealing service that scales economically.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFast spray application for high car throughput.\u003c\/strong\u003e The spray formula of the PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating lays down much faster than classic liquid coatings. The actual application time per car is far shorter, which lets a shop seal more cars a day with no drop in quality.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e5-litre pro container for sound costing.\u003c\/strong\u003e The 5-litre container is built for steady professional use. At a typical dose per car the product works out to a low product cost per vehicle, which makes a competitively priced sealing service possible.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCeramic protection with a hydrostatic effect.\u003c\/strong\u003e Like every SONAX PROFILINE Ceramic product, the SprayCoating uses ceramic protection tech that forms a hydrophobic surface layer. Water beads off, dirt grips less and comes away more easily at the next wash — the well-known lotus effect on the bodywork.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e The PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating only gives you its full protection on a properly cleaned and decontaminated surface. A prep step with iron remover and an IPA surface cleaner (isopropyl alcohol) makes sure no oil residue, cleaning agents or fingerprints get in the way of how the ceramic layer bonds. Make a point of working in a shaded spot that's free of dust and draughts — moving air dries the coating faster than you want and can leave you with patchy coverage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSpray ceramic technology in the PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating — how it works and how it bonds\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCeramic sealants are built on silicon-dioxide or organosilicon compounds that bond on the clear coat into a hard, smooth protective layer. With classic liquid ceramic coatings, these compounds go on highly concentrated, in small amounts with an applicator pad, and cure to bond chemically with the paint surface. Spray ceramic sealants like the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e use a lower-viscosity formula that you can spread evenly over larger areas as an aerosol.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe bonding mechanism is much the same in principle: the ceramic compounds bond to the paint or clear-coat surface and, once dry, form a thin, even protective layer. The difference is in the layer thickness and how concentrated the ceramic compounds are. Liquid coatings build a thicker, longer-lasting layer; spray coatings are thinner but spread more evenly, and they're easier to strip back or refresh. For shops that want to give cars a regularly refreshed protective layer, the spray coating is the more practical pick.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne important technical point is how it gets on with different surfaces. The PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating is made for paint, but in practice you can also use it on glass, exterior plastic and polished wheels. How well it grips varies with the surface material; on smooth clear coat the bond is ideal. For glass sealing and wheel sealing there are dedicated products in the PROFILINE line, tuned to what those surfaces specifically need.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA spray ceramic sealant doesn't last as long as a professionally applied liquid ceramic coating. Where liquid coatings hold for 1–3 years depending on quality and surface prep, spray coatings typically last about 3–6 months under normal use. That shorter life is by design with spray coatings: they're meant as a regularly refreshed protective layer, not a long-term investment like a liquid coating. For a dealership or wash that offers quarterly maintenance packages, that's an upside — recurring service intervals lock in steady income.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother technical angle is how it sits over existing coatings. The SprayCoating can go on over an existing liquid coating as a refresh layer — as long as the base underneath is clean and oil-free. In that setup the spray coating extends the life of the liquid coating beneath it, acting as an outer sacrificial layer that takes the hit from the weather and alkaline wash chemicals. This combo — liquid coating as the base, spray coating as the regular refresh — makes for a professional care concept that pairs maximum protection with sound economics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWorking temperature matters too. Lay the SprayCoating down at ambient temperatures between 10 and 30 °C. Below 10 °C the curing time stretches out badly and the ceramic molecules bond to the paint surface only partly — the seal then lasts noticeably less than stated. Above 30 °C or in direct sun the product dries too fast, before you can spread it evenly. For year-round work a temperature-controlled bay that reliably holds these conditions all year is the way to go.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying Ceramic SprayCoating the right way — a workflow for top quality\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWith any coating product, surface prep is the deciding factor. With the PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating the rule is: the cleaner and more oil-free the surface, the more even and longer-lasting the protective layer. The recommended prep workflow runs to a full wash (wheels included), an iron-remover step, an optional clay-bar treatment on more heavily contaminated surfaces, and an IPA-cleaner step to pull off every trace of wax, polishing oils and fingerprints.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn cars that were treated with a wax or a hybrid sealant beforehand, the IPA step is non-negotiable. Wax residue forms a barrier between the paint and the ceramic layer that badly weakens the bond. In practice, do a wipe test: rub a microfibre cloth soaked in IPA over a panel and check whether any residue shows on the cloth. Once there's no residue left, the surface is ready for the coating. This simple test saves you fiddly rework and gives you good results you can repeat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe application itself starts with spraying the spray coating onto a clean microfibre cloth, not straight onto the paint surface. That gives you a controlled amount and stops streaks from too much product in one spot. With the loaded cloth, spread the coating evenly over a panel in circular motions. Then buff it straight off with a second, dry microfibre cloth — before the product flashes off. Depending on temperature and humidity you've got 30–60 seconds before the coating starts to dry. Work in small sections, one panel at a time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOnce the whole car is done, keep it away from water for at least 30 minutes. For ideal curing, give it 1–2 hours before any water touches the car. During that curing window the ceramic compounds settle fully onto the surface. The result after curing: an even, hydrophobic protective layer that beads water clearly in the rain.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA common mistake out there is spraying the product on too generously, straight onto the paint surface. That leads to uneven coverage, streaking when you buff and more product burned through. The correct method — onto the cloth, not onto the panel — is quick to learn and gives results you can repeat, even when several staff in the shop are working with the product. As a way to get up to speed, use a practice car for the first two or three applications, until the right dose and the best buff-off timing are in muscle memory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn picking the buffing cloth: a quality microfibre cloth of at least 300 gsm and a short pile works best for application, since it spreads the product evenly without leaving fibre residue on the surface. The buffing cloth should be a different, fresh cloth — never the same one you applied with. After use, wash microfibre cloths separately from other textiles at no more than 40 °C and dry them without fabric softener, to keep the microfibre structure intact.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSprayCoating in daily shop life — efficiency, costing basics and service offers\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailing shops and washes that want to offer a ceramic seal as a service, the 5-litre container of the PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating is the most economical way in. The price per litre on a 5-litre container is far cheaper than on tiny containers. At a typical dose of 30–50 ml per car (depending on car size and surface), a 5-litre container delivers about 100–160 car applications — a manageable production-cost calculation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe value sits in the service price: a ceramic seal as an add-on to a standard detail can be pitched to customers as a premium option. The time and product the SprayCoating takes are low enough to generate extra margin that the quoted price can justify. Customers who want their new car or pride-and-joy sealed are happy to pay a good deal more for a certified ceramic seal than for an ordinary wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA further angle is the chance to sell maintenance packages. Seal a car with the Ceramic SprayCoating and you can offer the customer a 3- or 6-month maintenance package where the seal gets refreshed at regular intervals. This model builds recurring loyalty and predictable income — much like subscription models in other service trades.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow you talk to the end customer is a deciding success factor here. Terms like \"ceramic seal\" and \"hydrophobic ceramic protection\" are familiar and positively loaded among car owners. Demonstrate the effect live at handover — say, a drop of water on the freshly sealed paint — and you create an instant quality moment that visually justifies the premium on the sealing service. A short written care guide handed to the customer lifts satisfaction further and cuts down questions about how to look after the freshly sealed surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSprayCoating vs. liquid coating — when each is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSet against the classic SONAX PROFILINE liquid coatings, the positioning is clear. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-pro-paint-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" Pro\u003c\/a\u003e is a highly concentrated liquid ceramic coating for maximum durability and depth — it needs heavy surface prep, professional application and a longer cure, but delivers a protective layer that lasts 12–24 months. The Ceramic SprayCoating is the faster, more accessible alternative; it can't match the long-term durability, but it's clearly ahead on efficiency and ease.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-hybridcoating-cc-one-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE HybridCoating \"CC One\"\u003c\/a\u003e sits in the middle: as a hybrid between a classic coating and a spray coating, it offers medium durability with better application efficiency than a pure liquid coating. For shops that want to offer a professional sealing service that's longer-lasting than the SprayCoating but quicker than CC Pro, the HybridCoating is the sweet spot. The Ceramic SprayCoating, by contrast, is the pick for efficient mass application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAgainst the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-ceramiccoating-cc-one-paint-keramikversiegelung\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE CeramicCoating \"CC\" One\u003c\/a\u003e, the SprayCoating differs in its container and its application method. The CC One comes in smaller units for single-car coating; the SprayCoating in the 5-litre container is built for coating a lot of cars at once. Which product is right comes straight down to your shop model.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eWhichever product variant you go with, one thing holds: the quality of the final check decides customer satisfaction. A final look from an angle against the light shows up any streaks or patchy spots, which you can fix before the car goes back. This check costs a few minutes but heads off complaints and shores up the shop's reputation as a reliable, quality-minded provider of professional ceramic seals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating is the best choice for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating\u003c\/strong\u003e in the 5-litre container is aimed at professional detailing shops, car washes, dealerships and reconditioning businesses that want to protect cars with a ceramic seal day in, day out. It's the right product for anyone offering a scalable sealing service who wants to count on a reliable, economical pro product. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 stocks the PROFILINE Ceramic SprayCoating and advises on request on the right product choice for your particular shop model.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor hobby detailers and private users who want to seal their own car themselves, the 5-litre container is usually oversized. If you want to protect a single car, the SONAX XTREME line has suitable sealing products in consumer-friendly container sizes. The 5-litre pro container only pays off from a regular usage volume up, which assumes a business or an organisation with several cars on the books. Fleet managers and companies with their own vehicle pool are also a sensible, economical target for the pro container, provided the in-house car care is done by their own trained staff.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you're not sure whether the spray coating or a liquid coating is the right call for your shop, you can get advice from Detailing1 by phone or email. The decision hinges on factors like daily car volume, the service price you're after and the curing times you can spare — a solid read on these factors helps you pick the right product from the PROFILINE line and work economically over the long run.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"5 liters","offer_id":57345085735247,"sku":"D1-SNX-2575000","price":66.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-ceramic-spraycoating-1_5l.png?v=1774731848"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-speedprotect-spruhversiegelung","title":"PROFILINE SpeedProtect Spray Sealant","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePROFILINE SpeedProtect: professional spray sealant with carnauba wax for brilliant gloss\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eHow do you seal freshly polished paint like a pro in under 10 minutes? With the SONAX PROFILINE SpeedProtect spray sealant: spray on, spread, buff off – done. The carnauba wax formula pulls out deep colour and high gloss with no streaking.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003ePROFILINE SpeedProtect spray sealant\u003c\/strong\u003e is the quick finish for demanding detailers who want professional results and short working times. This \u003cstrong\u003espray sealant with natural carnauba wax\u003c\/strong\u003e combines proper paint protection with the convenience of a spray – ideal for freshly polished surfaces, new cars or regular maintenance work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLightning-fast to work with.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike classic hard waxes, SpeedProtect only needs 5–10 minutes to flash off. You spray the sealant onto still-damp or dry paint, spread it evenly with the sponge and buff off with a lint-free microfibre cloth. No waiting around, no fiddly dosing – ideal for shops working to tight turnaround times.\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDeep colour and high gloss thanks to carnauba wax.\u003c\/strong\u003e The natural carnauba component boosts the colour and lays down a deep, velvety gloss. It really shows on dark paint: black or dark-brown panels instantly look deeper and more brilliant.\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eProtection for new and refinished paint.\u003c\/strong\u003e SpeedProtect is the perfect follow-up after a polish or as a final coat on new cars. It builds a smooth, sealed protective layer that shrugs off dirt and the elements – without dulling the fresh, just-polished gloss.\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e The PROFILINE SpeedProtect also works brilliantly as a booster over existing waxes or sealants. When an old sealant starts looking tired after a few too many washes, a spray layer of SpeedProtect brings the gloss back – without touching the base coat underneath. Especially handy for showroom cars and forecourt prep.\n\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eHow does the carnauba wax technology in SpeedProtect work?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe carnauba wax in the PROFILINE SpeedProtect formula is one of the hardest natural waxes out there. Carnauba comes from the leaves of the Brazilian carnauba palm, and it has a knack for creating extremely smooth, high-gloss surfaces. In the SpeedProtect blend the carnauba is formulated to grab quickly without leaving streaks – the classic problem with raw carnauba products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe spray format solves the traditional carnauba dilemma: where hard waxes are often stiff and need long airing-off times, SpeedProtect is thinned in a spray with light, volatile solvents. Those solvents flash off fast, leaving the carnauba behind – without clumping or streaking. The result is an even, wafer-thin wax layer that reflects light and seals the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn top of the carnauba, the formula packs modern synthetic polymers (so-called acrylic resins) for extra adhesion and UV resistance. The wax stays on the surface longer without going matt or greying – the usual downsides of pure natural waxes. This hybrid formula is the trade secret of the PROFILINE range and sets SpeedProtect apart from cheap one-component spray waxes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eStep-by-step: the professional workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSpeedProtect is deliberately simple to apply, to cut out mistakes and keep working times short:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrep:\u003c\/strong\u003e Wash the car thoroughly and dry it with a leather or lint-free towels. You don't strictly need extra drying – SpeedProtect works on lightly damp panels too, which saves time. If you've just polished, wipe the panels down properly with microfibre cloths until there's no polish residue left.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eApplication:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shake the bottle well (at least 30 seconds) to mix the wax content back in. Then spray SpeedProtect onto the panels in even, parallel passes – bonnet, roof, boot lid, doors and sides. Keep the nozzle about 15–20 cm away. Don't lay it on too thick; a wafer-thin coat is plenty.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpreading:\u003c\/strong\u003e Work SpeedProtect out evenly with the supplied sponge applicator or a fine microfibre pad. Use circular, overlapping strokes for an even layer. Don't leave the product sitting too long at this stage – you want each panel done within 1–2 minutes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBuffing:\u003c\/strong\u003e After 5–10 minutes of flash-off time, buff with a lint-free microfibre cloth in circular or straight strokes. The cloth should be slightly damp – not wet, but not bone-dry either. That's what gives you the signature high-gloss finish. Buff it properly and you get no streaks or spotting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCuring:\u003c\/strong\u003e Once buffed, SpeedProtect is ready to go straight away. For full hardness, leave the car unwashed for 12–24 hours so the polymers can cure fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eVisible results: what SpeedProtect does to the paint\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe effect of PROFILINE SpeedProtect shows straight after you've worked it in:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColour boost:\u003c\/strong\u003e The natural carnauba wax deepens the colour saturation. On dark colours especially (black, dark blue, dark red) the paint instantly looks deeper and richer – not plastic-looking or over-glossy, just classically elegant. That's the hallmark of carnauba waxes over synthetic sealants.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHigh gloss, no scratches:\u003c\/strong\u003e The smooth wax surface reflects light very evenly, which gives that impression of serious depth and gloss. Scratches and swirls show up less, because the surface is smoother than the bare paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater repellency:\u003c\/strong\u003e Within a few hours SpeedProtect forms a hydrophobic layer and water beads right off. That's not just eye candy – it also protects the paint from fallout, bug splatter and acidic water spots.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDurability:\u003c\/strong\u003e Depending on water quality and the weather, SpeedProtect lasts 4–8 weeks. With a monthly wash (using a gentle shampoo) and regular top-ups with a detailing spray, the layer can hold up for as long as 3 months.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSpeedProtect vs. other spray sealants: a straight comparison\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe spray sealant market is crowded. Alongside SONAX you've got rivals like \u003cstrong\u003eKoch Chemie S0.02 ProtectorWax\u003c\/strong\u003e, \u003cstrong\u003eGYEON Q²M WetCoat\u003c\/strong\u003e and various ceramic sprays. So where does SpeedProtect land?\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAgainst Koch Chemie S0.02:\u003c\/strong\u003e The Koch Chemie is also a traditional carnauba wax formula and very popular. It feels a touch creamier to use and can leave slight streaks if you don't buff carefully. SONAX SpeedProtect dries faster and forgives small mistakes better. In return, Koch Chemie often lasts a bit longer (up to 10 weeks).\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAgainst GYEON Q²M WetCoat:\u003c\/strong\u003e GYEON is a hybrid concept: half ceramic, half wax. WetCoat has better UV resistance and lasts up to 12 weeks. That said, WetCoat costs more and needs higher temperatures to cure properly. SpeedProtect is cheaper, quicker to use and plenty for standard upkeep.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAgainst ceramic spray sealants (SONAX Xtreme Ceramic Spray):\u003c\/strong\u003e Modern ceramic sprays (SiO₂-based) offer longer durability (up to 6 months) and better stain protection. But they also cost more and give a different, more modern kind of gloss. SpeedProtect is more traditional in look – a warm, deep, classic gloss instead of the clear, bright shine of ceramic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBottom line: \u003cstrong\u003eSpeedProtect is the all-rounder\u003c\/strong\u003e – cheap, fast, reliable and with that classic carnauba wax character. If you want to max out durability, reach for ceramic. If you want to max out gloss and feel, go SpeedProtect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWho is PROFILINE SpeedProtect right for?\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing shops and valeters:\u003c\/strong\u003e SpeedProtect is ideal when you need quick turnaround. At 10 minutes of working time, it's perfect for express detailing and showroom prep. The excellent gloss results also justify premium prices with the customer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePrivate owners with a regular care routine:\u003c\/strong\u003e If you wash the car every 4–6 weeks and want it looking glossy all the time, SpeedProtect is a dependable helper. The value is excellent – just under 25 EUR for a 1-litre bottle that covers about 2–3 cars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNew cars and handover prep:\u003c\/strong\u003e New vehicles often leave the factory with only a minimal protective layer. SpeedProtect is the ideal first-coat system: mild enough to apply under showroom conditions, with results you can see straight away.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTouch-ups after scratch or swirl correction:\u003c\/strong\u003e After polishing, SpeedProtect is the perfect finish. It backs up the polishing work visually and gives instant protection – with no fiddly two- or multi-stage systems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot ideal for:\u003c\/strong\u003e Long-term paint protection (go for ceramic instead), harsh environments (salty air, industrial fallout) or cars that rarely get cleaned (the protection is then too short-lived).\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57345085899087,"sku":"D1-SNX-2884050","price":17.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-speedprotect_1liter.png?v=1774731900"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-reload-shampoo-versiegelungsshampoo","title":"PROFILINE Reload Shampoo Sealant Shampoo","description":"\u003ch2\u003eTop up your SiO₂ sealant with every wash — SONAX PROFILINE Reload Shampoo\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat sets a sealant shampoo apart from a normal car shampoo? SONAX's sealant shampoo is built to actively recharge your existing SiO₂ and polymer sealants with every wash and stretch out how long they keep working.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eEvery wash chips away at a sealant or coating bit by bit — even pH-neutral shampoos slowly pull substance out of the sealant layer over time. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Reload Shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e flips that around: instead of weakening the sealant while you wash, this sealant shampoo actively tops up the protective layer with every pass. What you get is a sealant layer that doesn't just hold on but keeps renewing itself — well past its original lifespan.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSiO₂ reload technology — the sealant gets recharged with every wash.\u003c\/strong\u003e The PROFILINE Reload Shampoo carries SiO₂ nano-particles (silicon dioxide) that lay down on the paint as you wash and work themselves into the existing sealant layer. This reload mechanism offsets the natural breakdown of the sealant from weather and washing — the sealant layer stays active and hydrophobic for the long haul.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWater beading after every wash — proof you can see.\u003c\/strong\u003e The lotus effect of a SiO₂ sealant — water beading into droplets and carrying the dirt off with it — is the clearest sign a protective layer is doing its job. Once you've used the Reload Shampoo, the paint beads like it did on day one right after the rinse, even when the original sealant was already showing the first signs of wear. That makes the reload effect measurable after every wash and easy to show customers in a detailing business.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e10-litre pro container for non-stop commercial use.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Reload Shampoo comes in a 10-litre canister — the most economical format for car washes, detailing businesses and dealerships that wash lots of cars a day. The price per litre in the bulk container works out far cheaper than in single bottles, and the volume keeps you running without constant reorders.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe reload principle is especially interesting for cars with SiO₂ coatings that were done at a pro business. These coatings cost real money to apply and are meant to last as long as possible. With a sealant shampoo that regenerates the coating layer on every wash, the investment in that original coating is properly protected — customers don't have to shell out for a full re-coat nearly as soon. That's a clear service angle for detailing businesses offering their customers long-term coating care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best reload effect, use the Reload Shampoo in a contact wash with a mitt and the bucket method: let the shampoo dwell for a moment (30–60 seconds) before you rinse — that gives the SiO₂ particles time to settle onto the paint. On cars with fresh ceramic coatings (the first 7–30 days after application) wait out the cure time before you reach for the Reload Shampoo. As a dosing guide, go for 30–50 ml per 10-litre bucket depending on how dirty the car is. The 10-litre canister pairs nicely with a dosing pump to keep your daily measure consistent across the business and save product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe reload technology behind the PROFILINE sealant shampoo — the SiO₂ mechanism and how it works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Reload Shampoo\u003c\/strong\u003e works on the principle of reactive sealant top-up: the SiO₂ nano-particles in the shampoo formula are water-soluble and activate in the film of wash water. When they meet the existing sealant layer they embed into its structure and fill in the spots that UV, temperature swings or earlier washes have worn down. After the rinse, a renewed SiO₂ layer stays behind on the paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSilicon dioxide (SiO₂) is the key component in modern paint sealants because it forms an extremely hard, clear and hydrophobic layer. Unlike carnauba wax, which is soft and rubs off with friction, SiO₂ stands up far better to mechanical stress and weather. The Reload Shampoo works with the same SiO₂ particles used in professional coating products — at a lower concentration for wash use, but with a measurable top-up factor after every wash.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing worth getting straight is the difference between the Reload Shampoo and a full re-coat: the Reload Shampoo stretches the working life of an existing coating a lot, but it doesn't replace a full re-application. It's the maintenance step in the care cycle — sitting between the professional first coat and a fresh application that might eventually be needed after heavy use or a few years. That clear positioning makes the Reload Shampoo a must-have part of any professional paint-care setup.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe reload principle has a money side too: professional SiO₂ coatings run anywhere from several hundred to over a thousand euros depending on the product and the size of the business, application included. A coating that would normally last 12 to 24 months can be stretched to 24 to 48 months with the Reload Shampoo — as long as the care is done consistently. The savings from longer coating cycles outweigh the small extra cost of the Reload Shampoo over a standard shampoo by a mile. That's the main argument for businesses and car owners who invest in professional coatings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe pH-neutrality of the Reload Shampoo is another critical property: SiO₂ coatings react badly to acidic or alkaline cleaners. The PROFILINE Reload Shampoo is dialled in to a pH that won't attack the existing sealant layer while getting the reload particles to activate at their best. Shampoos that are too alkaline would actively dissolve the sealant on every wash — exactly the opposite of what you want.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the Reload Shampoo — dosing in a pro business and by hand\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor commercial use with the 10-litre canister it pays to fit a dosing pump: these pumps sit on standard canisters and deliver a set amount per stroke — usually 30–50 ml. That standardises the dose and stops over- or under-dosing when several staff or shifts are involved. A dosing pump pays for itself fast in daily use through the product you save with a tighter measure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor hand washing in a detailing business the same principles apply as at home, just on a bigger scale: two-bucket method, dwell time, a full rinse. The Reload Shampoo foams up enough for good lubrication while you wash, which keeps the mitt from dragging micro-scratches into the paint through lack of slip. Its cleaning power is plenty for normal road grime — for heavily soiled cars, start with a pre-wash from a pressure washer to knock off the worst before the sealant shampoo goes on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor businesses running wash bays or pressure washers, the Reload Shampoo can also go through a foam lance once you adjust the concentration. Here dwell time really matters: with a foam pre-clean the foam needs enough time to wet the surface and activate the SiO₂ particles before it's rinsed off. Give it at least a minute. After you rinse the foam the normal contact wash follows — foam on its own doesn't replace the mechanical cleaning step for stubborn grime.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the rinse, dry the car quickly to make the water beading show right away and to stop water spots from standing water. In a pro business a blaster (a compressed-air blower) is the most efficient way to start drying — leftover water from door shuts, mirrors and roof edges comes off without any cloth contact. Then you finish drying with microfibre towels for a streak-free surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere the PROFILINE Reload Shampoo fits — detailing businesses, dealerships and studios\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Reload Shampoo is aimed first at professional users: car detailing businesses, dealerships with a car-care service and detailing studios. The 10-litre format only pays off with regular, commercial use — for the occasional private user a smaller format makes more sense.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn detailing businesses that offer their customers SiO₂ coatings, the Reload Shampoo is the logical add-on to the service line-up: after a professional coating application you can recommend the customer use the Reload Shampoo for ongoing upkeep — or the business runs a \"Coating Maintenance Wash\" as a service, with the Reload Shampoo as the star product. That turns a one-off coating application into recurring service work.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor dealerships that prep new and pre-owned cars and add a paint seal on delivery, the Reload Shampoo is the follow-up product for the maintenance recommendation. Customers who got a paint sealant when they bought the car can stretch that sealant's working life themselves with the Reload Shampoo — a concrete extra you can pitch as an add-on service during the sale.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe PROFILINE Reload Shampoo compared — sealant shampoos and everyday shampoos\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to a normal car shampoo with no sealant function, the Reload Shampoo is the stronger product for cars with active SiO₂ coatings. A pure cleaning shampoo like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foamgiant-shampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME FoamGiant Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e is ideal for freshly coated cars in the first weeks after application, while the coating is still curing and you don't want any foreign product touching the layer. The Reload Shampoo is the right pick for coatings that have already cured and need the ongoing reload cycle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNext to the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-shampoo-2-in-1-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Shampoo \"2 in 1\"\u003c\/a\u003e, which packs in classic wax components, the PROFILINE Reload Shampoo is a different beast: the 2-in-1 shampoo is the handy everyday product for any car without an active SiO₂ coating. The Reload Shampoo is the specialist product for SiO₂-coated cars — it works hand in hand with the coating chemistry that's already there and reinforces it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-ceramic-activeshampoo-autoshampoo\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Ceramic Active-Shampoo\u003c\/a\u003e is the consumer version in the XTREME range with a similar ceramic protection principle. The PROFILINE Reload Shampoo is its professional counterpart in the PROFILINE segment — higher concentration, bigger container, built for non-stop commercial use. For the home user with a single SiO₂-coated car, the Ceramic Active-Shampoo in a handier format is the more practical choice. For businesses with lots of coated cars, the PROFILINE Reload Shampoo is the more economical product.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-foam-seal-schaumversiegelung-autoshampoo-versiegelung\"\u003eSONAX XTREME Foam+Seal\u003c\/a\u003e takes a different sealing approach: it lays down a fresh polymer sealant whether or not there's an existing coating. That's the route for cars with no active coating layer. The PROFILINE Reload Shampoo, by contrast, tops up and reinforces the existing SiO₂ layer. Both approaches have their place — the call depends on the state and history of the car's paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuy the SONAX PROFILINE Reload Shampoo — for businesses and keen private drivers\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThis sealant shampoo is for professional users who care for lots of cars with SiO₂ sealants day in, day out, and for private detailing enthusiasts who have an active SiO₂ coating on their car and want to keep that coating working with every wash. The 10-litre pro container is the most economical format for regular use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor keen private drivers who've had their car sealed with a quality SiO₂ coating and want to maintain it themselves, the 10-litre container is over the top to start with — a smaller format would be handier. That said, the PROFILINE Reload Shampoo is also available in small quantities from specialist retailers. If you want to try the product first, start with a small amount and step up to the more economical bulk container once you're convinced.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eGet into the PROFILINE sealant shampoo system and you gain a product that pulls double duty: cleaning and active sealant care in one. The extra effort over a standard shampoo is zero — the payoff is measurable: the beading lasts longer, dirt clings to the paint less, and the intervals before a re-coat can be stretched out considerably. That makes the PROFILINE Reload Shampoo not just a care product but an investment-protection move for any professionally applied SiO₂ sealant.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"10 liters","offer_id":57345086193999,"sku":"D1-SNX-6156000","price":84.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-reload-shampoo_10l.png?v=1774731894"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-plastic-protectant-exterior-kunststoffpflege","title":"PROFILINE PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\" Plastic Care","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRescue weathered plastics and protect them for good — SONAX PROFILINE PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can a deep plastic conditioner do that regular plastic care products can't? This silicone-free pro-grade deep conditioner from the PROFILINE line soaks deep into porous exterior plastics, brings faded black back to life and lays down protection that survives several shampoo washes.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eUnpainted exterior plastics are one of the most common eyesores on a car: bumpers, sill trims, wheel arch flares and mirror housings fade over time from deep black to a dull grey — a dead giveaway of UV damage and neglect. A lot of care products only sit on top of the surface and wash straight off with the next rain or the next shampoo. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\"\u003c\/strong\u003e goes deeper: the silicone-free gel formula works into the pores of the plastic, feeds the material from within and brings back the original depth of colour for good — with staying power that outlasts several washes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDeep action, not a surface coating.\u003c\/strong\u003e The gel formula is built to work its way into the microporous structure of exterior plastics. Bare plastic has a porous surface that loses plasticisers over time — the result is fading and that grey, lifeless look. The PlasticProtectant sinks into those pores and feeds the material with conditioning agents that take over the plasticiser role and regenerate the surface from the inside out. A surface coating never gets that deep and wipes off the first time you touch it with a cloth.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eLong-lasting protection that holds through several washes.\u003c\/strong\u003e A common gripe with plastic dressings is how quickly they give up — one rain shower or one shampoo wash and the effect is gone. The PROFILINE PlasticProtectant is built for day-in, day-out pro use: the formula stands up to several pressure-washer passes and shampoo washes. For detailing shops that means you don't have to redo the plastics every time a car comes back in — a clear efficiency win over shorter-lived products.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free formula — safe around paint, rubber and vinyl wraps.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone in plastic dressings is a well-known headache in detailing shops: it oversprays onto paint, leaves panels unfit for fresh paint or wraps, and leaves residue on window frames that gets in the way of later glass coatings. The PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\" contains no silicone — so you can use it right up against paintwork and seals without residue messing up the rest of your workflow.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results, prep the plastic first — strip off dirt, old dressing residue and silicone left behind by previous products with a plastic cleaner or a mild APC. Old residue on the surface stops the PlasticProtectant from sinking in properly, and the effect ends up far weaker than on a clean substrate. Lay the product down thin on an applicator sponge or a soft cloth and work it into the surface. Less is more: a thin film does more than a thick coat that dries on top and goes streaky. Bring the plastic up to room temperature first — on ice-cold plastic the gel soaks in slower and tends to leave a surface film rather than working deep.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eSilicone-free deep plastic care — how the Plastic Protectant brings weathered exterior plastic back to life\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eSONAX's PROFILINE line stands for formulas with higher active concentrations than the consumer range — with the PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\" that means a bigger share of the active conditioning agents that do the deep work. Those agents are low-molecular, i.e. small enough to get into the microporous structure of hard plastic. Standard plastic dressings often lean on silicones because they flash off fast and give instant gloss — but silicone doesn't get into the plastic, it just sits on top. The PlasticProtectant works instead with polar conditioning oils and polymers that are chemically at home with the polypropylene and polyamide plastics that dominate car construction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe UV-protection components in the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\"\u003c\/strong\u003e are the key to long-term care. UV radiation is the number-one cause of plastic fading: it breaks up the molecular chains at the surface, oxidises it and drives out the plasticisers that give the plastic its colour and flexibility. UV stabilisers in the formula absorb or reflect UV before it can damage the plastic. Using the PlasticProtectant regularly keeps building up that UV-protective film and holds the original depth of colour longer than going without.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor badly weathered plastic that's already gone grey and brittle, a two-step job makes sense: first a plastic restoration with an abrasive deep-care product that mechanically takes off the oxidised layer; then the PlasticProtectant as the long-term-protection finish. On its own the PlasticProtectant can improve the look of very weathered plastic, but it can't take it all the way back to new if the damage has gone deep into the material. As a care product for well-kept or moderately weathered plastic, though, it's spot on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow it behaves varies a little by plastic type: polypropylene (PP), the most common exterior plastic on bumpers and sills, is fairly non-polar and takes the care formula well. Polycarbonate (PC) on headlight housings and some mirror covers is a touch smoother and more porous — here a second application after the first has soaked in can help push the deep action further. ABS plastics on trim pieces and exterior mouldings have a finer surface texture and, being less porous, take the PlasticProtectant up more slowly — so a longer dwell time (10–15 minutes instead of 5) works best before you wipe off the excess. The product is compatible with all common automotive plastics; even so, a quick spot test on a small area before the full job is worth it on older or unfamiliar plastics.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBeing fine on rubber is a nice bonus: rubber on window seals, door frames and bumper edges also loses plasticisers to UV and ozone and goes brittle over time. You can put the PlasticProtectant on those rubber parts too and feed them the same conditioning components as the plastic. That keeps the workflow simple: one product for unpainted exterior plastic and the rubber right next to it, with no switching between products.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eApplying the Plastic Protectant Exterior — application, thin coats and common mistakes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eApplying the PlasticProtectant right starts with prepping the plastic: fully cleaned, dry and brought up to roughly room temperature. Put a small drop of the gel on a closed-cell foam applicator or a microfibre cloth and work it evenly into the plastic in small circular motions. The gel consistency lets you meter it out in a controlled way — it doesn't run, doesn't drip and stays put where you lay it down.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe most common mistake in application: too much product at once. A thick film on the plastic looks intensely glossy at first, but it dries unevenly and leaves streaky, whitish patches once it's set. The right amount is far less than you'd expect — the product is meant to soak in, not sit on the surface. A second thin coat after the first has soaked in beats one thick coat. After applying, let it dwell for 5–10 minutes, then take off the excess with a dry, clean microfibre cloth and even out the sheen at the same time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor bumpers with deep textures and honeycomb patterns, a fine detailing brush helps work the gel into the recesses. Textured exterior plastics have more surface area than flat parts and need a bit more product to match — but still lay it down thin so nothing dries up in the grooves. A common issue with bumper honeycomb is dressing drying in the corners and showing up as white residue once it sets. Thanks to its clear, gel-like formula the PlasticProtectant is less prone to white residue than silicone-based products — but overdo the application and it can happen here too. Lay it down thin and work out the excess: that's the fix.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUV protection and durability — how many washes the protection lasts\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eHow long the PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\" lasts depends on a few things: how often you wash the car, the water temperature, the mechanical contact in a car wash and the car's sun\/UV exposure. Under normal conditions — a monthly wash, moderate sun — the built-up protection holds for 4–8 weeks at a level well above untreated plastic. Wash weekly or run it through heavy pressure-washing and durability drops off accordingly, but it still holds longer than surface-only rivals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor pro detailing shops, the long-term effect means you don't have to redo the plastics on cars that come back within a few weeks. A car brought in for a full detail with its plastics treated with the PlasticProtectant stays in top shape for 4–6 weeks under the owner's normal use. That cuts down complaints about plastics fading fast and saves time day in, day out.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne thing that matters in practice: the first coat on badly weathered plastic often doesn't show the full result yet. Weathered, porous plastic drinks up that first coat of PlasticProtectant fast and fills the deepest pores; the gloss and depth of colour improve noticeably, but not to the max. A second coat once the first has fully soaked in (a third on very heavy weathering) takes the deep action to its best. Building it up like this — several thin layers instead of one thick one — is more efficient and gives a more even, deeper result than a single heavy application.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor cars that catch a lot of sun — say in countries with intense sunlight, or parked outside all summer — a monthly top-up makes sense. Heavy sun exposure uses up the UV-protection components faster, because they soak up the UV energy that would otherwise damage the plastic. A quick refresh takes only a few minutes per car and keeps the plastics safe from that greyish ageing effect for the long haul.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePlasticProtectant \"Exterior\" compared — vs. PlasticCare and vs. KunststoffGel\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAcross the SONAX plastic-care range there are clear positioning differences. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-plasticcare-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PlasticCare\u003c\/a\u003e is also a PROFILINE product, but it's built for broader use on painted and unpainted plastics — more of an all-rounder, less specialised on deep action for badly weathered exterior plastics. For cars with mixed plastic surfaces (inside + outside, painted + unpainted) the PlasticCare is a handy one-product solution; for unpainted exterior plastics only, the PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\" is the more focused pick with stronger deep action.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOne comparison point that often gets underrated in practice: the effect on matte plastics. Some modern cars come with matte or satin-finished exterior plastics from the factory (matte spoilers or mirror housings, for instance). On those surfaces a glossy plastic dressing would wreck the matte look you want and throw up shiny patches. Applied thin, the PROFILINE PlasticProtectant leaves a subtle, understated level of sheen — so with a very thin coat and thorough working-out it can go on matte plastics too without killing the matte look completely. For deliberately matte surfaces, though, a product made specifically for matte finishes — one that's guaranteed not to add gloss — is the safer bet. On normal, slightly glossy exterior plastics the PlasticProtectant is the go-to in the PROFILINE range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-kunststoffgel-aussen-kunststoffpflege\"\u003eSONAX XTREME KunststoffGel \"Außen\"\u003c\/a\u003e is the consumer version for the same job: unpainted exterior plastics. It handles much like the PROFILINE PlasticProtectant but has a lower active concentration — ideal for the occasional user who dresses their car once or twice a year. The PROFILINE product is built for day-in, day-out pro use and packs more active density per application — which pays off far more on badly weathered surfaces and in shops running lots of cars a day than the consumer version does.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor rubber care near window seals and door frames, the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-gummipfleger-gummipflege-reifenpflege\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GummiPfleger\u003c\/a\u003e is the companion pick: it's formulated specifically to bring elasticity back into rubber and uses different actives than the PlasticProtectant. For the lower sill rubbers and window frames, a combo works best: PlasticProtectant for the plastic surfaces, GummiPfleger for the rubber seals right next to them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying plastic care — who the SONAX PROFILINE PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\" is right for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is the first pick for pro detailing shops that work exterior plastics every day and need a long-lasting, silicone-free solution. One litre, applied thin, covers a lot of cars — the pack size is aimed at day-in, day-out pro use. For the private user with one or two cars who wants to keep their plastics looking their best for good, the 1-litre bottle is economical in the long run too: applied thin, you use very little per car.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe PlasticProtectant is especially relevant for owners of cars older than 5 years, since by then exterior plastics have lost a lot of their depth of colour without care — even if the car gets washed regularly. Hardest hit are cars whose exterior plastic has already faded noticeably — a grey spoiler, dull bumpers, bleached-out sill trims. One intensive treatment shows the difference straight away; regular care after that keeps the regenerated look going for good. As a verified SONAX dealer, Detailing1 keeps the PROFILINE PlasticProtectant \"Exterior\" permanently in stock in the 1-litre pack size for day-in, day-out pro use. The product is ready to go straight away — no dilution, no prep, straight from the bottle onto the applicator and off you go.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"1000 ml \/ 1 liter","offer_id":57345086325071,"sku":"D1-SNX-2103000","price":24.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-plastic-protectant-exterior_1liter.png?v=1774731882"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-sp-06-02-schleif-politur-heavy-cut","title":"PROFILINE SP \"06-02\" Cutting Polish (Heavy-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eRemove deep scratches, sanding marks and overspray with SONAX PROFILINE SP \"06-02\"\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat can the SP \"06-02\" from SONAX PROFILINE do? This silicone-free heavy-cut compound with cut level 6 removes sanding marks up to P1200, overspray, etching damage and deeply embedded scratches on all paints — as the first step in a professional polishing workflow.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIn professional paint correction there's no \"one-does-it-all\" polish. A solid multi-step workflow splits the job: first a heavy-cut compound grinds out the coarse defects, then a finishing polish refines the result until the paint sits there free of marring and with maximum gloss. That role as the first and most powerful step is exactly what the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SP 06-02\u003c\/strong\u003e takes on — a silicone-free cutting compound with cut level 6, built for work with the rotary polisher. It removes sanding marks from wet-sanding up to P1200, overspray, etching damage from bird droppings, insects and tree sap, plus badly weathered single-stage paints. SONAX PROFILINE's SP polish system is firmly established in professional paint correction: the clearly defined cut and gloss levels let you plan a multi-stage workflow precisely, where every polish handles exactly what it was built for — and the SP \"06-02\" is the strongest, most abrasive tool in the whole set. It stands for the first, decisive step, without which the refinement steps that follow couldn't do their job.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCut level 6 for defects other polishes can't touch.\u003c\/strong\u003e Deeply embedded scratches, sanding marks after wet-sanding with P1000 or P1200, baked-on overspray and heavily oxidised paint surfaces: those are the jobs the SP \"06-02\" was designed for. Conventional medium-cut polishes at cut level 4 or 5 fall short here — the SP \"06-02\" clears them systematically and under control, without stripping away more clear coat than it needs to.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSilicone-free — fit for rework and respray jobs.\u003c\/strong\u003e Silicone-based polishes leave behind residues that are hard to remove and can cause fisheyes and adhesion problems on later respray or sealing work. The SP \"06-02\" is formulated completely silicone-free — it leaves no traces that get in the way of later paint correction, which makes it the standard for professional shops and bodyshops that also respray.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDefined finish for predictable follow-up polishing.\u003c\/strong\u003e The SP \"06-02\" leaves a defined, even finish on the paint that the follow-up polish PROFILINE FS 05-04 can refine in a targeted, efficient way. The matched cut and gloss levels in the PROFILINE system are no accident — they let you run a workflow where the next step always builds on the last, with no needless in-between passes or do-overs.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e always work the SP \"06-02\" on clean, dust-free paint and degrease the surface beforehand with an IPA mix (isopropyl alcohol) to pull off residues from waxes or care products. On the first pass, use higher pressure (5–10 kg) at lower speed (800 RPM) to activate the abrasive and cut down the defect. Then drop the pressure and raise the speed (1200 RPM) for the refining phase. Always work in a crosshatch pattern to avoid transitions. After the SP \"06-02\", always check the defined finish under good lighting before moving on to the FS 05-04.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCut level 6 and gloss level 2 — how the SP \"06-02\" works through paint defects\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE system defines cut and gloss levels on a scale that makes picking the right polish for each defect level easy. Cut level 6 is the highest cut in the SP range — it's an aggressive cut that reaches even stubborn defects like deeply embedded scratches and wet-sanding marks up to P1200. At the same time, gloss level 2 means the SP \"06-02\" leaves a certain haze after polishing that a finishing polish has to refine further. That's not a drawback, it's the plan: a heavy-cut compound that also delivers maximum gloss always compromises either the cutting power or the finish. The SP \"06-02\" is optimised for the first step — and it does that step so well that the second step with the FS 05-04 becomes efficient and predictable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive formulation of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE SP 06-02\u003c\/strong\u003e works with mineral abrasives that turn actively abrasive under the pressure of the rotary polisher. These so-called \"breaking down\" abrasives break apart as the polishing goes on: on the first pass at high pressure they hit with their full aggression, on the second pass at reduced pressure they get finer and produce a more even finish. This self-breaking behaviour is why the SP \"06-02\", despite its cut level 6, gives a controlled and predictable result — the paint isn't removed at random, it's worked systematically. If you want to understand why professional detailers rate the PROFILINE system, here's one of the core reasons: the chemistry works with the machine, not against it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for practice: the SP \"06-02\" is built for work with the rotary polisher, not for dual-action machines. Rotary machines generate the heat and pressure you need to activate the abrasives properly. With a dual-action machine at low cut and moderate pressure you can in theory use a heavy-cut compound, but the result and the efficiency are clearly worse. In the pro use the SP \"06-02\" is designed for, only the rotary machine comes into play — ideally with a wool pad for maximum cut, or a hard foam pad for a controlled finish on more delicate paints.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing the SP \"06-02\" the right way — the rotary-polisher workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePhase 1 starts with a prepped paint area, cleared of dust and dirt. The panel you're working should also be at room temperature — cold paint reacts to the abrasives differently than warm, and below 10 °C the polish can't reach its full effect. Put product on the pad — not too much, about 4–6 pea-sized drops for an area of roughly one square metre. Then start at 5–10 kg pressure at 800 RPM and move evenly across the area you're working. The higher pressure activates the abrasives and makes sure the defects come out efficiently. This phase takes about 30 seconds per square metre and is the actual cutting step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePhase 2 follows straight after: drop the pressure to 1–2 kg, raise the speed to 1200 RPM. Now the SP \"06-02\" switches into the refining phase. The abrasives, now finer, level the surface created in phase 1 and produce the even, defined finish that's the ideal starting point for the follow-up FS polish. This phase takes about 60 seconds per square metre. Then lift the residue with a clean microfibre cloth and check the result under good lighting — ideally with an LED inspection lamp. If defects are still showing, repeat the phase before you lay on the next polish. The crosshatch pattern matters here: even overlaps of 50 % of the pad face prevent transitions and uneven cutting depths.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eA practical note on pad choice: the SONAX PROFILINE wool pad delivers the highest cut with the SP \"06-02\" and is first choice on hard-to-reach defects or large-area weathering damage. The hard foam pad offers a bit less aggression but a more even finish and less heat build-up — ideal on more delicate paints or when you want tighter control over the cut. So the call between the pads comes down to the paint's condition and the job: the more aggressive the defects, the more it's wool; the more delicate the paint, the more it's the hard foam pad. If you've got both pads in the set, you can switch from wool to the foam pad after the first round to harmonise the finish further before the FS 05-04 — that often saves a separate polishing pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter the SP \"06-02\" the paint is in a state that still shows holograms and fine sanding marks under direct light — that's intended and expected. The follow-up polish's job is exactly that: to refine this defined finish further, until the paint sits there hologram-free and high-gloss. Using the SP \"06-02\" as your only polish and laying a wax over it wouldn't get you anywhere — it's the first step, not the last.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eWhere it fits — when the SP \"06-02\" is the right call\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" bites in situations where medium-cut polishes no longer cut it: freshly resprayed panels with orange-peel or sanding-grit marks, cars with deep swirl marks after years without professional correction, heavily weathered single-stage paints on classic cars, and above all follow-up work after wet-sanding with P1000–P1200. In damage repair — after hail damage with small sanding spots, after bird-dropping etches that have gone deep into the clear coat — the SP \"06-02\" is the tool of choice, because the medium polishes don't fully reach the depth of that damage. In overspray removal too, where you need the abrasive action to sand off the deposited foreign-paint particles, the SP \"06-02\" shows its full strength.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" has its limits on extremely thin or already heavily thinned paints. On cars that have already been professionally corrected several times and whose clear coat has little thickness left, you should measure the paint thickness before reaching for a heavy-cut product. That's no failing of the SP \"06-02\" — it's a general principle of any abrasive work that gets factored in automatically in pro use. Used correctly, the SP \"06-02\" removes defined and controllable amounts of clear coat and isn't a tool for the occasional user with no rotary experience. Professional detailers generally recommend always working a test area in a less visible spot before the first pass on an unknown car, to get a feel for the paint hardness and the cut — every paint reacts a little differently, and what works fine on a soft Japanese clear coat needs clearly more machine pressure and dwell time on a hard German clear coat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" in the polish system — the three-step PROFILINE workflow\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE polish system is designed as a matched three-step system. Step one: the SP \"06-02\" as a heavy-cut compound removes the coarse defects and creates the defined finish. Step two: the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-fs-05-04-schleif-politur\"\u003ePROFILINE FS 05-04\u003c\/a\u003e — a medium-cut finishing polish with cut level 5 and gloss level 4 — refines the SP \"06-02\" result and clears the holograms and sanding marks left in the first step. Step three: the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-np-03-06-hochglanz-politur-finish\"\u003ePROFILINE NP 03-06\u003c\/a\u003e brings the final high gloss with cut level 3 and gloss level 6 and leaves the paint in a mark-free state, ready for every sealant and protective product. This grading from 6 through 5 and 4 to 3 and 6 is no accident — it mirrors a carefully developed progression that does exactly what the next step needs at every stage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eIf you've got fewer defects and want to get by with a single polish, you can reach for the \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/www.detailing1.de\/products\/sonax-profiline-ultimatecut-schleif-politur\"\u003ePROFILINE UltimateCut\u003c\/a\u003e — a high-speed cutting polish built for one-step use on dual-action and rotary machines. The UltimateCut is aggressive and efficient, but not as strongly cutting as the SP \"06-02\", and it delivers a better finish at the same time — a trade-off that makes sense for a lot of everyday jobs. If instead you need maximum cut with a clearly defined follow-up workflow — and that's the typical demand in professional paint correction — you're best set up with the SP \"06-02\" in a full three-step system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying advice — who the SONAX PROFILINE SP 06-02 pays off for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SP \"06-02\" is the right tool for professional detailers, painters and keen enthusiasts who work with the rotary polisher and want to tackle demanding paint defects systematically. It pays off whenever medium polishes no longer cut it: after wet-sanding, on deep scratches, on overspray or on heavily weathered paints. If you're after a single heavy-cut solution for pro use, you'll find the SP \"06-02\" a reliable, easy-to-run product from a matched system. Together with the FS 05-04 and NP 03-06 you get a complete, scalable correction workflow that suits practically any task in professional paint polishing — from simple scratch removal to full paint restoration. The 250 ml bottle suits getting started and trying the system out, the 1 L container the daily pro use. Deciding on the SP 06-02 also means deciding on a clear way of working: not fast and with cut corners, but systematic and with a result. For keen hobby detailers working their way into professional paint correction, the SP system is an excellent way in — the clear levels and the predictable behaviour make it easier to understand and fine-tune your own approach. For pros correcting cars every day, the SP \"06-02\" is a reliable constant in the workflow you can lean on without surprises. And for bodyshops that offer correction work alongside repairs, it's the right tool to tackle even the most stubborn paint damage systematically and with a reproducible result.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":57345086554447,"sku":"D1-SNX-3201410","price":13.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-sp-06-02_250ml.png?v=1774731897"},{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-regenstreifenentferner-wasserfleckenentferner","title":"PROFILINE Rain Stain Remover Water Stain Remover","description":"\u003ch2\u003ePermanently remove baked-on rain streaks and water spots with SONAX PROFILINE Rain Streak Remover\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat makes SONAX PROFILINE Rain Streak Remover special? This abrasive intensive cleaner removes baked-on calcium and mineral deposits from rain streaks, water spot damage, and sprinkler spots on paint, glass, and plastic — without aggressive acids.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eVehicles that are regularly parked outdoors know the problem: rain streaks form over weeks and months until they become visible as dull, chalk-like deposits on the paint surface — stubborn because calcium and minerals chemically burn into the surface. Conventional car shampoos do not remove these deposits; acidic cleaners attack the paint. The \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE Rain Streak Remover\u003c\/strong\u003e combines a mild abrasive suspension with a chemical dissolving effect — it mechanically and chemically dissolves and grinds baked-on calcium and mineral residues without damaging the paint surface or using aggressive acids.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCombines mechanical and chemical cleaning action.\u003c\/strong\u003e The Rain Streak Remover contains fine abrasive particles in an aqueous formulation. These abrasive particles work in conjunction with the chemical formulation: the chemistry loosens the bond between the calcium deposit and the paint surface, and the abrasive particles absorb the dissolved coating. This dual principle enables the removal of deposits that could not be effectively treated with a pure cleaner or a pure polish alone.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCan be used on paint, glass, and plastic.\u003c\/strong\u003e Rain streaks occur on all exposed vehicle surfaces — on the roof, hood, side windows, plastic attachments, and mirrors. The Rain Streak Remover is suitable for all these surfaces and does not require switching cleaning agents between different materials.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e3-liter container for professional use.\u003c\/strong\u003e In a detailing business that regularly treats vehicles with rain streak damage, the 3-liter container is the economical solution. The large container reduces the price per application and ensures that there is enough material for several vehicles without frequent reorders.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePractical tip from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e Apply the Rain Streak Remover to the area to be treated and work it in with a damp microfiber cloth using circular motions. The abrasive effect is best achieved with moderate pressure and several short passes — not one long, forceful wipe. On glass, a pass with the Glass Detailer may be useful after treatment to ensure no abrasive residues remain. A final treatment with a sealant protects the cleaned surface from quick re-soiling.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRain streaks on paint — how calcium and minerals damage the surface and how Rain Streak Remover works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eRain streaks are caused by a physico-chemical process: rainwater picks up calcium, minerals, and dust residues from the roof as it runs off and leaves them as a concentrated deposit on the bodywork when it evaporates. In vehicles in hard water areas or near sprinkler systems or car washes using tap water, calcium spots are particularly pronounced. The deposits not only settle on the paint surface but also bind chemically into the clear coat over time — a process accelerated by UV radiation and fluctuating temperatures.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eRain Streak Remover\u003c\/strong\u003e contains a combination of fine, non-scratching abrasive particles and a chemical formulation that weakens the bond between the calcium deposit and the surface. The abrasive particles are significantly finer than those in a typical cutting polish — their purpose is not paint correction, but the mechanical loosening and absorption of mineral residues that have been chemically softened. The result is a surface cleaning that goes deeper than a cleaner alone but does not constitute paint correction.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eCompared to purely acidic water spot removers — which chemically dissolve calcium through pH reaction — the Rain Streak Remover has the advantage that it can be used more safely on more sensitive surfaces such as clear coat. Strong acids dissolve calcium very effectively, but they also attack the paint surface if the exposure time is exceeded or the dilution is too high. The Rain Streak Remover works with a mild abrasive formulation that is safer for materials and carries less risk of unintended paint damage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAfter treatment with the Rain Streak Remover, the paint surface is clean, but in all likelihood not yet sealed. The abrasive action not only removes calcium deposits but also any remaining wax or sealant residues in the treated area. A re-seal with a suitable product from the SONAX PROFILINE range is therefore recommended after every Rain Streak Remover treatment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eImportant for professional operation is the distinction between fresh and baked-on deposits. Fresh calcium spots — formed in the last few days by rain or sprinklers — can often be completely removed after a single pass. Older deposits that have built up over months may require two to three passes, with the product being reapplied fresh between passes. Estimating the maturity of the deposit before the first pass allows for realistic calculation of working time and a precise quote for the customer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eCorrect application of Rain Streak Remover — step-by-step workflow on various surfaces\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eBefore use, the surface should be pre-cleaned — loose dirt particles on the surface would act as a scratch risk when working in the Rain Streak Remover. A basic wash with \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-alkaline-vorreiniger\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean \"Alkaline\"\u003c\/a\u003e as a pre-cleaner removes grease and surface dirt before the Rain Streak Remover is used. The working surface should be treated in the shade and at a moderate temperature — direct sunlight dries the product too quickly and makes even application difficult.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn paint, the Rain Streak Remover is worked in either by hand (microfiber cloth, damp application sponge) or by machine at a low speed. Machine application at low to medium speed with a soft pad is more efficient than manual work, especially on large areas such as the hood and roof, and provides more even processing. The worked-in suspension is allowed to act briefly (30–60 seconds) before being wiped off with a clean microfiber cloth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eOn glass, the working method is similar to paint: apply product, work in, wipe off. On glass, however, the abrasive particles in the Rain Streak Remover are less abrasive than on paint — for very deeply burned-in calcium spots on glass, an additional pass with the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-filzpad-125-polierpad\"\u003eFeltPad 125\u003c\/a\u003e and a glass polish may be useful, as the physical abrasion of the FeltPad on glass dissolves calcium compounds more effectively than a cleaning cloth alone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor machine application on paint, the choice of pad is crucial. A soft foam pad or a finishing pad is the right choice — harder or very abrasive pads would overemphasize the already existing abrasive effect of the Rain Streak Remover and unnecessarily stress the paint surface. The product itself provides the necessary abrasion; the pad serves as an even applicator and distributor. When working on large areas, the pad should be cleaned regularly, as absorbed calcium particles could otherwise act as a scratch risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor the treatment of plastic add-on parts — bumpers, mirror housings, sill trims — lower pressure requirements apply than on paint. Plastic is softer and more sensitive to abrasive action. Light pressure and short circular movements are sufficient to remove calcium deposits from plastic surfaces. For dark plastic parts, a specific plastic care product should be applied after treatment with Rain Streak Remover to prevent fading.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRemoving water spots and rain streaks — when the Rain Streak Remover shows its full strength\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Rain Streak Remover is the right tool when calcium and mineral deposits have already penetrated deep into the paint surface and can no longer be removed with normal car shampoos or cleaners. Vehicles with several years of exposure without sealing — company vehicles in open parking lots, vehicles within sprinkler range, vehicles regularly exposed to rainwater in hard water areas — are classic candidates for the Rain Streak Remover.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe Rain Streak Remover is particularly effective on fresh sprinkler spots. If a vehicle has been hit by a sprinkler system with tap water and the white calcium spots are still fresh, the Rain Streak Remover removes them with less effort than deeply baked-on old spots. Used preventively after any contamination with tap water, the Rain Streak Remover prevents the penetration depth that builds up after weeks of standing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor vehicles with ceramic coatings, the question arises whether the Rain Streak Remover is compatible with the coating. In principle, for coated vehicles, the least abrasion that still achieves sufficient effect should be used — the abrasive particles of the Rain Streak Remover can thin or selectively remove coating layers. For coated vehicles with light water spots, a gentler approach with a pH-neutral cleaner is recommended first; the Rain Streak Remover should only be used if this method is not sufficient.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAnother application scenario that is often underestimated in practice is vehicles after construction site exposure. Construction water, concrete splashes, and mortar residues contain high concentrations of calcium and minerals and adhere to the bodywork upon contact. As long as the residues have not yet hardened, the Rain Streak Remover also effectively treats these contaminations — light pressure and several short passes loosen the deposits before they permanently work their way into the paint. However, for already hardened concrete splashes, mechanical pre-treatment with a clay bar or clay pad is necessary to remove the rough layer first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe limits of the Rain Streak Remover lie with deeply etched caustic lime that has already chemically bonded with the clear coat due to pH reaction or UV exposure. In these cases — often recognizable by a rough, dull-white surface that remains visible even after cleaning — a complete paint correction with abrasive polish and eccentric polisher is necessary before the Rain Streak Remover can take effect. The Rain Streak Remover is designed for superficial and medium calcium removal, not for deeply damaged paint.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eRain Streak Remover comparison — acid cleaners, polish, and non-abrasive cleaners\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor water spot removal, there are basically three approaches on the market: acidic cleaners (pH 1–4), abrasive polishes, and abrasive intensive cleaners like the Rain Streak Remover. Each approach has its place, but no method is optimal for all situations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAcidic cleaners dissolve calcium very quickly through pH reaction — calcium carbonate reacts with acid and is converted into water-soluble calcium salts. The disadvantage: on paint, too high an acid concentration or too long an exposure time can permanently damage the clear coat surface. On glass, acidic cleaners can be used more safely; on paint, they require precise dilution and short exposure times. The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-multiclean-acid-kraftreiniger-sauer\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MultiClean \"Acid\"\u003c\/a\u003e is a professional acidic cleaner for outdoor use — but on paint only in diluted form and with caution.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eAbrasive polishes with a high abrasive content remove calcium spots mechanically, but aggressive application can reduce paint thickness. They are suitable for complete paint correction after calcium damage, not for routine calcium removal. The Rain Streak Remover positions itself in between: more effective than a pure cleaner, less abrasive than a cutting polish, no pH risks like with acidic cleaners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eNon-abrasive calcium cleaners based on complexing agents — such as EDTA or citric acid — dissolve calcium chemically without abrasive action. They are gentler on coatings than the Rain Streak Remover, but less effective on deeply baked-on deposits. For light and fresh calcium spots, complexing agent-based cleaners are the gentlest option; for older and deeper baked-on deposits, the Rain Streak Remover is the more effective choice.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe decision of which approach is correct in a specific case therefore depends on three factors: the age of the deposits, surface sensitivity (coated or uncoated), and the desired time expenditure. The Rain Streak Remover offers the best price-performance ratio in the medium damage range — not too fresh for a simple shampoo treatment, but not yet so deeply etched that a complete polish would be unavoidable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying Rain Streak Remover — for which businesses and applications it pays off\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe SONAX PROFILINE Rain Streak Remover in a 3-liter container pays off for every detailing business that regularly treats vehicles with rain streak and calcium spot problems. In areas with hard water or near commercial businesses with sprinkler systems, the proportion of such vehicles is high. With the Rain Streak Remover, this task can be solved efficiently, safely, and without paint risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor a complete calcium removal workflow, the following are recommended as complements: The \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasscleaner-glasreiniger\"\u003eGlassCleaner\u003c\/a\u003e for glass surfaces after the Rain Streak Remover, and a suitable sealant from the PROFILINE range for protection afterward. The three-step system of basic cleaning, Rain Streak Remover, and sealing is the professional approach for vehicles with heavy calcium loads — and provides better long-term results than individual treatments without subsequent protection.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe professional detailer who incorporates the Rain Streak Remover into their service portfolio can thus define a clear service category: \"Calcium Spot and Rain Streak Removal\" as a separate service, distinct from regular vehicle detailing. This transparency helps with quoting — the customer understands why this step is charged extra, and the business can correctly calculate the effort. In practice, rain streak removal including pre-cleaning and re-sealing on a mid-range car can be completed within two to three hours.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eFor detailers who regularly educate their customers about the causes of rain streaks, the Rain Streak Remover is also a conversation starter for sealing services: a sealed vehicle forms significantly fewer rain streaks because the calcium particles cannot penetrate the paint surface. Anyone using the Rain Streak Remover automatically has the consultation hook for a preventive protective treatment — with the result that customers have to come back less often and are still more satisfied in the long term.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"3 liters","offer_id":57345086849359,"sku":"D1-SNX-2184410","price":42.49,"currency_code":"EUR","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-regenstreifenentferner_3liter.png?v=1774731888"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/collections\/sonax-profiline.png?v=1730448819","url":"https:\/\/detiiling1.com\/collections\/sonax-profiline.oembed?page=2","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}