{"product_id":"dr-wack-a1-flugrost-entferner-gel-flugrostentferner","title":"A1 \"Flugrost-Entferner Gel\" Iron Remover","description":"\u003ch2 id=\"speakable-headline\"\u003eA1 \"Flugrost-Entferner Gel\" pulls baked-in iron back out of the clear coat\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote id=\"speakable-summary\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat is the A1 \"Flugrost-Entferner Gel\"? An acid-free iron remover in gel form for paint, plastic and metal, with a reaction indicator that marks the contaminated spots in red-violet. Not for hot panels, full sun, steel that has rusted through, or bare aluminium without a test patch first.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp id=\"speakable-definition\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA1 \"Flugrost-Entferner Gel\"\u003c\/strong\u003e is an acid-free iron remover from Dr. Wack in Baar-Ebenhausen that dissolves iron particles out of paint, plastic and metal instead of scrubbing them off. A thioglycolate salt converts the iron oxide into a water-soluble compound that runs off with the rinse. That compound is a strong red-violet in its own right. So the colour on the panel is the reaction itself and not a dye that has been added.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eThe dust comes off the brake disc hot. Dr. Wack describes exactly that in the product information sheet: hot brake dust burns into the surface, and road salt and damp add rust on top. The particle then does not sit on the clear coat but in it, much the way welding sparks burn into a window pane. Shampoo runs straight over the top, because above the paint surface there is nothing left to grab.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003eLeave the iron sitting there and it keeps oxidising, pushing the orange speck up through the clear coat from below. Reach for a polish instead and you drag that hard grit across the panel and pick up swirls, the fine wash marks that stand out as circles under low light. That is why the running order in the scene is chemistry before mechanics: dissolve it first, touch it second.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eThe reaction indicator is a measuring instrument.\u003c\/strong\u003e The gel leaves the nozzle a pale violet and runs off a strong red-violet wherever it has bound iron. After the five minutes of dwell time you see not only whether you covered the whole panel, but also which areas were genuinely contaminated. That diagnosis costs you no extra step.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e140 mPas keep the film on a vertical door.\u003c\/strong\u003e The safety data sheet puts the dynamic viscosity at 140 mPas at 20 °C, thick enough that what you lay down stays put instead of running onto the sill within seconds. Day-to-day that means the five minutes of dwell time count on the flank exactly as they do on the bonnet.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003epH 7.4 instead of acid.\u003c\/strong\u003e The safety data sheet states pH 7.4 at 20 °C, essentially the value of tap water. On clear coat, chrome and anodised aluminium, none of what an acidic cleaner can do there happens. Bare, untreated aluminium stays the exception, and for that Dr. Wack itself calls for a test patch.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDetailing1's tip from the shop:\u003c\/strong\u003e We get a steady stream of messages from people whose gel “did nothing”, and the day was almost always the first sunny Saturday of spring. On a hot panel the film skins over before the reaction is through. The counter-test takes two seconds: lay your palm flat on the panel. If you cannot hold it there for five seconds, the surface is too warm. Below 10 °C the opposite applies: at least ten minutes of dwell time instead of five.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe decon step comes after the wash, not before\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe gel belongs on a washed, cooled-down panel, because it only works where it actually reaches the iron.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack lays down a clear sequence for it: spray onto areas you have already cleaned, leave it about five minutes, wipe over with a wet sponge, rinse thoroughly with water and chamois off. With extreme contamination or temperatures below 10 °C it is at least ten minutes. The trigger head on the 500 ml bottle needs a few pumps before the gel comes through, and it switches between a fan and a jet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe difference between a gel and a spray shows up on the door. A thin iron remover flows almost like water and is sitting in a puddle on the sill within seconds, while the panel up top is already drying out again. At 140 mPas, what you lay down stays as a closed film instead, and the dwell time runs the same length everywhere. On the bonnet that makes no odds; on the flank, the arch and the tailgate it decides the result.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe spots worth doing are the ones where the brake dust lands: wheel arches, lower door sections, sills, the rear bumper and the edges behind the wheels. On light paint you spot the orange specks with the naked eye, on dark blue or black they only show under low light. So the simpler rule applies when you lay it down: a hand's width too much beats one edge too few.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe wet sponge is not an extra, it is part of the instructions. It takes off the softened deposit while the gel is still wet. Run it without pressure and rinse it out between panels, so dissolved iron does not stay in the sponge and turn up again on the next section.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe rinse is what counts at the end. As long as red-violet streaks are running off, there is still iron on the move. Only once the water stays clear is the panel through. Chamois off afterwards, or the dissolved salts dry on as a tide mark. If individual specks sit deeper, give them their own second application, because doubling the dwell time does nothing once the film up top has dried on.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-flugrost-entferner-gel-flugrostentferner_anwendung.png?v=1787867824\u0026amp;width=1400\" alt=\"A1 Flugrost-Entferner Gel on a silver car door, violet streaks showing dissolved iron\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:4px;\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eThe gel removes fallout, it does not stop rust eating in\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhat it dissolves is iron and only iron: the data sheet names fallout, early corrosion marks and industrial dust, and tar and tree sap are deliberately not on that list.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe gel is strong wherever iron has settled across a whole area. Light paint after winter counts, so do cars parked next to railway lines or a building site, along with chrome trim, plastic sills and arch liners. Because it works acid-free, you run the same bottle over paint, plastic and metal without swapping products halfway.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDr. Wack writes two limits into the product sheet itself. On bare, untreated aluminium you check compatibility on a hidden patch first, because polished raw alu has no top layer to catch a reaction. And in full sun or on heated surfaces you do not start at all.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe third limit runs between fallout and rust. Early corrosion marks come off with the gel, but steel that has rusted through is beyond any iron remover, and there only sanding and paint are left. Tar, bitumen and tree sap do not react chemically at all: the area stays pale although the mark is still there. That is useful information rather than a fault.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIts remit stops at the wheel. Baked-on brake dust needs longer standing time on the material and a formula built for brake cleaner, heat and powder coating, which is why there is a \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-p21s-power-gel-felgenreiniger\"\u003ewheel cleaner from the P21S line\u003c\/a\u003e on the shelf for it. If it is paint, plastic or chrome that is affected, you stay with the A1 \"Flugrost-Entferner Gel\".\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003ePark next to a railway line and the fallout is delivered to your door\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe worst hit are cars near railway lines, industrial estates and building sites, plus any car after a winter of road salt and plenty of brake dust.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe 500 ml bottle with the trigger head is ready to use, nothing gets diluted and nothing gets decanted. That suits one or two passes a year on a car, typically in spring before polishing or sealing. If you decontaminate whole cars every week, a concentrate from our \u003ca href=\"\/collections\/flugrostentferner\"\u003eiron remover\u003c\/a\u003e category works out cheaper in the long run.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the running order the gel sits between the wash and the polish. Wash first, dissolve the iron chemically, then clay, polish or seal. Dr. Wack explicitly recommends a durable sealant on every painted panel afterwards. From the same line the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/dr-wack-a1-all-in-one-care-und-protect-spruehversiegelung\"\u003espray sealant\u003c\/a\u003e fits, and it goes straight onto the car while it is still wet.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot every car needs this. One kept under cover with few miles on it and no railway or industry next door often shows no colour at all after five minutes. Look after a fleet, on the other hand, and a canister plus a pump sprayer gets you round quicker than a spray bottle. The real case sits in between: a car that lives outside, gets one thorough go a year and is put back under protection afterwards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn storage the safety data sheet names exactly one condition: protect from frost. For your skin there is a second one: nitrile rubber is listed there as the suitable glove material, and a pair of those is basic kit with this product. The only published trade test comes from Camping Cars \u0026amp; Caravans 5\/2011, gave it a score of 1.8 and praised the handling and the material compatibility.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe most valuable pass is in the end the one where nothing changes colour. If the panel is still pale after five minutes, there is no iron sitting there, and you save yourself the clay round, which always takes a little material with it. So before any detail the gel answers you the one question you can otherwise only feel for: is the paint clean, or only washed?\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Dr. Wack \"A1\"","offers":[{"title":"500ml","offer_id":54707184664911,"sku":"D1-DRW-2550","price":23.13,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/dr-wack-a1-flugrost-entferner-gel-flugrostentferner.png?v=1787867212","url":"https:\/\/detiiling1.com\/products\/dr-wack-a1-flugrost-entferner-gel-flugrostentferner","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}