{"product_id":"sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur","title":"PROFILINE MetalPolish Metal Polish (Medium-Cut)","description":"\u003ch2\u003eBringing tarnished metal back to a mirror shine — with the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eWhat does the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish do? This medium-cut metal polish takes tarnish, oxidation, light rust and dullness off aluminium, brass, chrome and stainless steel — and brings metal surfaces back to a near-mirror shine.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cp\u003ePolished metal loses its shine over time — oxygen, moisture, UV and airborne acids leave tarnish, oxide layers and that typical dull haze plain cleaning won't shift. That's where the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e comes in: a high-gloss polish with a medium cut that uses quality abrasive minerals to take tarnish and oxide layers down gently and expose the mirror-bright surface underneath. The formula runs on every common metal — aluminium, brass, chrome, stainless steel — and does it without harsh acids or alkalis, which can leave corrosion damage on sensitive metal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003cul\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eMedium cut for a wide working range.\u003c\/strong\u003e The medium-cut lets you polish quickly even on heavily tarnished or dull metal, without taking off too much or damaging more delicate surfaces. For most jobs — exhaust tips, polished aluminium rim beds, chrome trim, stainless steel panels — the medium cut is the right starting point: visible results without pulling off material you don't need to lose.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eWorks on every common metal surface.\u003c\/strong\u003e Aluminium, brass, chrome, stainless steel, copper — the polish runs on all of them with no compatibility headaches. It has proven itself on motorcycle parts, exhaust systems, wheels, boat fittings and polished-metal kitchenware, wherever you need both cleaning power and a proper high-gloss result.\u003c\/li\u003e\n  \u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eHigh-gloss finish straight out of the tube.\u003c\/strong\u003e After polishing you get a near-mirror high-gloss finish that needs no separate follow-up. That saves you a step compared with two-stage systems, where you cut first and then have to come back with a pure finisher — with the PROFILINE MetalPolish the cutting and finishing phases are rolled into one pass.\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003cblockquote class=\"praxistipp\"\u003e\n  \u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDay-to-day from Detailing1:\u003c\/strong\u003e For the best results, clean and dry the metal properly before you polish — dirt particles sitting on the surface cut deeper scratches than the abrasive in the polish ever does. Lay the MetalPolish onto a clean, soft cotton cloth or polishing pad and work in small sections with round, overlapping passes. Don't go too thin — the paste should stay visible on the surface until it sets up and goes slightly cloudy. Then buff it off with a clean cloth and check what you've got. Heavily tarnished areas may need a second pass.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/blockquote\u003e\n\n\u003chr\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMedium-cut metal polish — how the medium cut actually works\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA metal polish works through controlled micro-abrasion: fine abrasive grains in the paste take down the top layer of oxidation, tarnish and micro-scratches while smoothing the metal underneath. The finer the grain, the higher the gloss you can reach, but the longer the working time on badly damaged surfaces. The medium cut of the \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is a deliberate compromise: strong enough to pull off clear tarnish and moderate oxide layers in one pass, fine enough to lay down a high-gloss finish right away, with no separate finishing step.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe abrasive minerals in the formula are picked to work gently on metal and not to remove excessive material. That matters most on thinly plated chrome or coated aluminium: an abrasive that is too aggressive can work straight through the protective layer and expose the base material underneath, which speeds up corrosion. The medium abrasion of the MetalPolish keeps that risk at a controlled level and is matched to the typical thickness of chrome and aluminium plating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere is an important conceptual difference to paint polishes like the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-perfectfinish-finish-politur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE PerfectFinish\u003c\/a\u003e: paint polishes are formulated for organic polymer layers (clear coat), metal polishes for inorganic metal surfaces. The abrasive grains are chosen differently, and the carrier paste is matched to how metal grips and conducts heat. These products aren't interchangeable — a paint polish on metal won't give you optimal results, and a metal polish on clear coat can leave scratches depending on how hard the abrasive is. So use the MetalPolish only on bare, unpainted metal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAfter polishing — once the product you laid down has hazed over and been buffed off with the cloth — the MetalPolish leaves no annoying oily film or residue. The metal comes out fresh, bright and grippy. An optional follow-up seal with a metal protectant or a wax film stretches out how long it takes to tarnish again, and it is well worth it on exterior chrome trim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eUsing metal polish properly — step by step for maximum shine\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e works by hand as well as on a rotary machine. By hand: put a hazelnut-sized blob of polish onto a clean cotton cloth, a polishing towel or a soft polishing block. Spread it over the metal in circles or straight lines — not too fast, with even pressure, in small sections of about 20×20 cm. Let the polish sit until it has dried slightly and looks milky-cloudy (typically 30–60 seconds at room temperature), then buff it off with a clean, dry cotton cloth. The result shows immediately: the cloudy residue holds the dissolved oxide and the dirt you have just taken off.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOn a machine (rotary or dual action): pick a pad that suits your machine — for the MetalPolish a medium-firm polishing pad or a cotton polishing disc does the job. Keep the speed low (rotary: about 1000–1500 rpm, DA: setting 3–4) and move evenly across the surface. Machine polishing on metal saves a lot of time and the mechanical pressure gives you more even results than hand polishing, but it takes a bit more practice to avoid overheating edges and corners. After the machine pass, buff off the same way you would by hand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHeavily tarnished or deeply oxidised surfaces may need a second pass. Important: after each pass, check with a clean cloth whether you have hit the result you want before you set up more polishing rounds — over-polishing takes off material for nothing without improving the finish any further.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMetal polish applications — where the MetalPolish hits hardest\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe MetalPolish shows its strength anywhere polished metal has gone dull and tired from the weather. On the car: chrome trim, aluminium wheel lips, stainless steel sills, exhaust tips and systems (always work on cold parts!), motorcycle headers, aluminium engine covers and motorsport parts in polished aluminium or titanium. The results are most striking on exhaust systems, which develop the typical tarnish colours under heat — blue, golden brown, purple. In many cases a metal polish takes them off completely or nearly so and gives the exhaust its original metal finish back. On titanium components (racing, high-performance exhausts) the tarnish colours often count as a feature — so think it through before you polish and decide whether you really want the original finish or whether the colours should stay on purpose.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWith alloy wheels you need to make one important distinction: bare, uncoated aluminium wheels (rare, but common in the classic-car and motorsport world) can be worked directly with metal polish. Standard new and used car wheels, on the other hand, carry a clear coat or are anodised — keep metal polish off those, because the abrasion attacks the clear coat. The right approach on painted wheels is a paint polish, not a metal polish. If in doubt: test a tiny patch somewhere out of sight before you take on the whole wheel.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAway from the car the MetalPolish is just as capable: boat fittings and propellers in brass or stainless steel, stainless railings and handrails, polished brass fittings, historic pieces in silver or bronze, kitchenware in polished stainless steel. Where it runs out of road is painted or anodised metal — those protective layers shouldn't be mechanically polished. Anodised alloy wheels or powder-coated parts are therefore not suitable jobs for a metal polish, whichever product you use.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eMetal polish compared — PROFILINE MetalPolish vs. XTREME MetalPolish and alternatives\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThere are two metal polishes in the SONAX range: the PROFILINE version and the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-xtreme-metalpolish-metallpolitur\"\u003eSONAX XTREME MetalPolish\u003c\/a\u003e. Both take tarnish and oxidation off metal, but they differ in pack size and positioning. The XTREME MetalPolish (150 ml tube) is aimed at hobby detailers and occasional users who prefer a handy pack size for smaller jobs and one-offs. The PROFILINE MetalPolish (250 ml) is built for regular users and businesses who polish more often and want to keep a slightly bigger amount on the shelf.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn terms of content, both products use comparable abrasive minerals for the medium cut — the real difference sits less in how they work than in size and positioning: PROFILINE is the pro line for regular use, XTREME the consumer pack for home use. If you work in a business or regularly detail motorcycles, cars or boats, you grab the PROFILINE; if you polish up your wheels or your exhaust now and then, the XTREME MetalPolish serves you just as well.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFor special jobs it is worth a look at the rest of the SONAX PROFILINE range: the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/sonax-profiline-glasspolish-glaspolitur\"\u003eSONAX PROFILINE GlassPolish\u003c\/a\u003e is built for glass — scratches and water spots in windscreens or rear windows — and works with cerium oxide abrasive technology on a completely different class of material than the MetalPolish. If you are putting together a full detailing kit that covers both paint and metal work, the SONAX PROFILINE range has the right specialist polish for every material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch3\u003eBuying the SONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish — recommendation and who it is for\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cstrong\u003eSONAX PROFILINE MetalPolish\u003c\/strong\u003e is the pick for anyone who polishes metal regularly and wants a reliable, proven pro product for the job. The 250 ml tube goes a long way — one full exhaust system, a whole motorcycle, several pieces of chrome trim — and its medium cut gives you maximum flexibility: from the occasional exhaust refresh to systematically working through a complete vehicle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlongside the polish, a set of good cotton cloths or polishing applicators is worth having for even results when you work by hand. Important: don't use microfibre towels to buff bright polished metal — microfibre loops can leave fine scratches on high-gloss metal that you simply don't get with cotton. For machine polishing, cotton polishing discs or medium-soft foam pads are the right call.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf you want a lasting protective layer after polishing that clearly slows down fresh tarnish, plan a metal-sealing step after the MetalPolish: a thin wax film, a metal protectant oil or in some cases a ceramic coating can stretch the life of that polished look from a few weeks to several months, especially on exterior parts that take the weather. It pays off most on exhaust systems you have put real work into and on motorcycle chrome, where you want the result to last as long as possible. For hobby detailers who polish the odd metal part now and then, the PROFILINE MetalPolish in the 250 ml tube will last many years — the tube goes a long way and the product keeps indefinitely if you store it properly (cool, dry, closed).\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SONAX","offers":[{"title":"250ml","offer_id":53502874386767,"sku":"D1-SNX-02041410","price":26.31,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"2x 250ml set","offer_id":53506187526479,"sku":"D1-SNX-2041410_2","price":52.61,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"3x 250ml set","offer_id":53506187559247,"sku":"D1-SNX-2041410_3","price":78.92,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0800\/3272\/7375\/files\/sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur.png?v=1730405721","url":"https:\/\/detiiling1.com\/products\/sonax-profiline-metalpolish-metallpolitur","provider":"Detailing1","version":"1.0","type":"link"}